THE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
LEEDS
LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
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THE
ENCYCLOPAEDIA
A Complete Dictiohary of all pertaining to the Art of
Cookery and Table Service.
ILLUSTRATED with COLOURED PLATES and ENGRAVINGS, by HAROLD EURNISS,
GEORGE CRUIKSHANK, IV. MUNN ANDREW, and others.
EDITED BY
THEODORE FRANCIS GARRETT,
Author of “ The Chef's Memoranda ," “ Plain and Artistic Cookery ," “ Little-known Foods," “ Ice and Ice-Makitig ,” “ The
Manufacture of British IVines, &c.," “ Ball Suppers and their Service ," “ Wine Adulteration," “ Savoury Suppers ,"
“ Muffins and Crumpets “ Sandwiches," “ A merican Drinks ," “ Confectionery ,” “ Notes on Curries ,"
“ I.oving-Cups ," “Antiquity of Cheese ," “ Good Coffee ,” “ Lives of Famous Cooks',' and numerous
other Serial and Special Papers in Technical and Domestic Publications.
Assisted by WILLIAM A. RAWSON (Cook and Confectioner to Messrs. Ring and Brymer, Caterers for City of London
and other Banquets ; Sec. of the Original U.F. Society of Cooks and Confectioners) ;
And, in Special Departments, by the following and other distinguished CHEFS DE CUISINE
and CONFECTIONERS:
C. J. CORBLET, Chef de Cuisine, Bute House, W. ; Grand
Diploma of Honour; ist Grand Prize, 1887; 1st Gold
Medal of ist Class, 1885.
J. Detraz, Chef de Cuisine , Hotel Metropole, London.
J. FlORlLLO, Chef de Cuisine, late of Hotel Victoria,
London ; Grand Prix d’Honneur, Paris, 1889 ; ist
Prize, Gold Medal, 1885 ; Champion Silver Medal,
1885 ; ist Prize, Gold Medal, 1888 ; ist Prize, Gold
Medal, 1889.
G. Heywood, Chef de Cuisine , and President of the
Original U.F. Society of Cooks and Confectioners.
C. Norwak, Confectioner, Gold and Silver Medallist in
Sugar-Flowers and Piping, London, 1889.
L. Lecomte, Chef de Cuisine to Lord Harewood ; Silver
Medal, Exposition Culinaire Internationale, London, 1885;
Diploma of Honour, Grand Prize, and Gold Medal, Expo-
sition Culinaire Internationale, London, 1887.
C. Reichert, Confectioner to Messrs. W. and G. Buszard.
A. Thoumire, Chef de Cuisine to Sir Julian Goldsmid ;
Silver Medal for Turtle Dinner of 13 Dishes, Universal
Cookery and Food Exhibition, 1889; Bronze Medal
for Menu Design, 1889 ; and Vermillion Medal, Expo-
sition Culinaire, 1887.
T. Wallace, Chef de Cuisine, Great Eastern Flotel, London.
C. Willin, Chef de Cuisine, late of the Grand Hotel
Bristol ; ist Prize in Open Turtle Competition.
Division VIII. — Twe to Zwe.
LONDON: L. UPCOTT GILL.
Sole Agent; A. W. COWAN, 30 and 31, NEW BRIDGE STREET, LONDON, E.C.
LONDON :
BRADLEY, LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS, DRURY LANE, W.C.
liMWtftSIf 1
LIBRARY
LEEDS
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
673
Tutti Frutti — continued.
continually until about to boil ; remove the pan from the
fire, and pour the cream at once through a fine sieve into
an earthenware basin. Let it get cold, pour it into the
freezer, freeze it, remove the dasher of the freezer, and
with a spatula work in about 3 pints in all of the follow-
ing fruits in equal quantities, and all cut up : Cherries
(stoned), strawberries, pine apple, apricots, peaches, green-
gages, ripe currants, and citron-peel. These fruits may
either be preserved or not, according to fancy. When
thoroughly frozen, use as required. The elder-flowers may
be omitted, and kirschenwasser, a little vanilla extract, and
the juice of three lemons used to flavour it before working
in the fruits.
(8) Add to 1 pint of syrup made of loaf sugar and a
little water the strained juice of two oranges, two lemons,
and 1 dessert spoonful of vanilla. Put this mixture into
the freezer, and when half frozen add and stir in 2 table-
spoonfuls each of cherry and strawberry preserves, 1 table-
spoonful each of greengage and peach preserves, cut in small
pieces, and a small quantity of any other preserved fruits
that are considered choice. Let it remain in the freezer
till quite frozen, then serve.
(9) Prepare 1 pint of lemon cream-ice, also 1 pint of
coffee cream-ice, leaving them until wanted in the freezers.
Take 2oz. of candied cherries cut in halves, 2oz. of
candied apricots cut in slices, loz. of candied angelica
cut into very small lozenge-shaped pieces, 2oz. of
candied pine apple cut into very thin slices, and twelve
French walnuts, shelled and divided. Have a 3-pint
square mould, place half the lemon cream at the bottom,
arrange a third of the fruits over, dividing them equally,
cover with half of the coffee cream, and with a spoon press
it down well. Lay half the remaining fruits on top of
this, and spread over the rest of the lemon cream, then
the last of the fruits, and fill up the mould with the
balance of the coffee cream. Close very firmly, and lay it |
in a pail with brokeu ice mixed with rock-salt at the
bottom, filling it with the same, and freeze for two
hours. Two minutes before serving, prepare a vessel with
warm water, lift up the mould, and wash off the ice
and salt ; turn out the macedoine immediately on a cold
dish with a fancy paper over, and send to table.
(10) Put 1 pint of syrup (see Syrup), 1 gill of kirschen
wasser, and the juice of three lemons into a basin, and
mix in a few drops of extract of vanilla. Place this in
the freezer, and work in two whites of Italian meringues ;
freeze again, mix in lightly 1 pint of fruits composed of
grapes, apricots, strawberries, pine apple, peaches, cherries,
and also candied peel ; stone the fruit, and cut all up into
small pieces. Pour the mixture into moulds, and freeze
until set, when it will be ready for use.
Tutti-Frutti Icing-. — Mix with a boiled icing loz. each of
chopped citron, candied cherries, Valencia raisins, candied
pine apple, and blanched almonds.
Tutti-Frutti Jelly. — Soak 2oz. of gelatine in l pint of
cold water, mix with it the grated peel and juice of one
lemon, the grated rind of half an orange, the juice of one
orange, and lib. of powdered white sugar ; cover it, and let
all stand together for an hour. Add ] pint of boiling water,
stir till the gelatine is quite melted, add 2 whisked
whites of fresh eggs, and then strain it ; add to it
1 wineglassful each of white wine and the best French
brandy, and strain it again, this time through double
flannel, and without either squeezing or shaking the
bag while the jelly drips through. Wet the inside of
a fluted mould with cold water, pour a little of the jelly in
the bottom of it, and let it get quite firm, in the meantime
keeping the rest of the jelly warm by standing the vessel
containing it in a pan of warm water. When the jelly
at the bottom of the mould is quite firm, lay on top of it
and close to the edge of the mould a row of crystallised
cherries, and within the row of cherries a layer of shreds
of crystallised apricots, greengages, peaches, &c. ; pour over
this more jelly, and let it stand till quite firm. In the
meantime, blanch Jib. of sweet almonds, and throw them as
they are slipped from their skins into cold water. When
the jelly over the crystallised fruit is quite firm, take the
almonds from the cold water, dry them, and cut them into
Tutti Frutti — continued.
very fine shreds ; put a row of cherries close to the outside
of the mould as before, and then lay within them a layer of
the shred almonds, pour over some more jelly, wait till it
is cold and firm, and then put a layer of chopped crystallised
fruits enclosed as before with a border of crystallised cherries.
Pour in more jelly, and as the jelly cools proceed to add
alternate layers of shred almonds and chopped fruits,
enclosing each layer with a border of cherries, and pouring
over sufficient jelly to cover, and waiting till it is firm to
Flo. 917. Tutti-frutti Jelly.
add the next layer. When the shape is full, set it on ice
till quite firm — if frozen, so much the better. Turn it out
on to a glass dish, garnish round with coloured jelly balls
(see Fig. 917), and serve immediately.
Tutti-Frutti Preserve.— Get a gallon jar, earthenware or
glass, with a wide mouth and tight fitting cork. Place 1
pint of brandy in this jar, and put in any fruit as it comes
into season, beginning with strawberries ; to every pound
of fruit add lib. of finely-powdered sugar. Put the fruit
in directly it is gathered, and thoroughly stir every day with
a wooden spoon. Strawberries should be hulled, and all
berries freed from stalks and stems, but should be put in
whole ; cherries and all stoned fruit should be stoned, and
the stalks picked off; plums, peaches, and apricots, should
be peeled and quartered as well as stoned ; the pips should
be taken out of grapes, but the skins may either be left
on or taken off, according to taste. When the last fruit is
put in, let it stand for a week ; it ought then to be fit for
use. Keep the jar well corked, except when putting in
fruit and stirring.
TWELFTH CAKES. — Like many another of the
good old customs, that of keeping up Christmas festivi-
ties until Twelfth-night (twelve days after Christmas)
has passed away. For a time Twelfth-night was regarded
as the finale of a long holiday, then it became a sort of
one-day resuscitation, and then fades away into the
world of historical memories. Twelfth-night cards and
characters are no longer in fashion, but the Twelfth-
Cake seems to have a charmed life, and dies hard. The
following are good receipts for these cakes, their chief
characteristics being that they are iced over and deco-
rated with coloured piping, fruits, and ornaments (see
Fig. 918).
(1) Put 21b. of butter into a large basin, and work it
with the hand before the fire to a cream, adding 2lb. of
finely -sifted sugar, a IP tie grated nutmeg, and Joz. each
of cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and mace, all finely powdered.
Beat all together, then work in twenty eggs with the yolks
and whites whisked separately. Add gradually 2lb. of dried
and sifted flour, 41b. of currants, Jib. of almonds blanched
and bruised in a mortar with a little orange-flower water,
Jib. of candied lemon-peel, and the same of candied citron
cut into thin slices, and lastly 2 wineglassfuls of brandy.
The cake should be well but lightly beaten between the
2 x
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
VOL. II.
674
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Twelfth Cakes — continued.
additions. Butter a baking-hoop, line it with doubled paper,
and pour in the mixture to three-quarters its height ; cover
the top with paper to prevent the cake burning, and bake in
a slow oven, but with a moderate heat, for four-hours-and-a-
half. Turn it out of the hoop, and when nearly cold ice
with plain sugar icing to about fin. in thickness. Then it
may be decorated with ornaments.
(2) Work 2ilb. of butter in a warm basin to a cream
with the hand, and then rub it into 7 lb. of flour. Have
ready 71b. of washed and dried currants, 2 large nutmegs
finely grated, |oz. of mace and foz. of cloves (the mace
and cloves finely pounded in a mortar or ground), lib. of
caster sugar, the yolks of sixteen eggs and the whites of
twelve whisked separately, and 1-i pints of fresh yeast.
Then mix all up, using only sufficient cream to moisten
the mixture, and add as much sweet wine (malmsey) as
will make it into a light batter. Blanch lib. of sweet
almonds, and pound them in a mortar with a little orange-
flower water and a little of the wine. Beat this into
the previous mixture, and add 111), of candied lemon-peel
and the same of orange-peel and citron cut into very fine
slices. Beat all the mixture well together, and then
pour it into a baking-hoop with a thick layer of paste
round it made of flour and water, to prevent it burning.
When done, which will be in about four-hours-and-a-half,
take it out, and when it is nearly cold ice it, anti cover
with decorations.
(3) Well wash and dry 31b. of currants, then stone 4oz.
of raisins, and put them all into \ peck of well-dried and
sifted flour ; add Jib. of powdered loaf sugar, 2oz. of
candied orange-peel, and the same of lemon-peel chopped
up finely, 4oz. of sweet and |oz. of bitter almonds blanched
and pounded in a mortar ; then, lastly, add mixed spice
to taste, and mix all well together. Take fib. of butter,
beat it up in 1 pint of warmed cream, and put in a
warm place for a little while before adding to the other
ingredients. Beat the yolks of twelve and the whites of
six eggs up separately, and put them into a basin,
adding 2 table-spoonfuls of cardamom brandy, h wine-
glassful of champagne or hock, a little rose-water, \ pint of
dissolved yeast, and a little salt ; mix all these together, and
pour them through a sieve into the dry ingredients, which
should be made a little warm before the fire. Mix
them to a smooth light paste, and put it to rise before
the fire. Then butter a baking-hoop, and pour in the
mixture, adding more flour if necessary to make it stiff.
Place under the hoop pieces of whitey -brown paper, and
bake in a moderate oven for nearly two hours. When
done, let it get cold, and then ice and ornament in the
usual way.
TWINE. — A careful housekeeper will collect all the
pieces of Twine that come into the kitchen round
parcels and otherwise. For many purposes these pieces
will be valuable, and nothing is more hindering to the
cook when working in a hurry than to have to wait whilst
Twine — continued.
a piece of string is hunted for and found. A hook should
be kept supplied, if possible, with Twine in all lengths
and sizes, or a ball, or a roller of a useful-sized Twine
should be always ready to the cook’s hand.
TWISTS. — See Bread.
TWOPENNY.— The name of an inferior beer
brewed in the early part of the eighteenth century.
UDDER ( Fr . Tetine ; Ger. Euter ; Ital. Tetta ; Sp.
Ubre). — The bag of a heifer or cow, which contains the
milk glands and in which the milk is secreted. That ol
the young female calf or heifer is used in cookery for the
purpose of wrapping up cromeskies; the Udder of the cow,
although more plentiful, is somewhat coarser and more
strongly flavoured, but is sometimes used, especially for
making a stew or ragout, when tripe is unobtainable. The
following is a good receipt for making this, and is highly
esteemed by Europeans in India :
Udder Ragout. — Parboil about 21b. of Udder. Put 3oz. of fat
in a frying-pan, and warm it ; cut twelve onions into slices,
put them in the pan, and fry them brown ; then remove them
from the pan and add 4 teaspoonfuls of ground onions, 1 tea-
spoonful each of ground chillies and turmeric, \ teaspoonful of
ground ginger, J teaspoonful of ground garlic, and, if preferred,
£ teaspoonful of ground coriander-seeds. Fry the mixture,
stirring continually, until brown, add the 21b. of Udder
cut up into squares, H teaspoonfuls of salt, and fry to a
light brown. Turn the whole into a saucepan, add the
onions, after chopping them, pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of
water, and simmer gently over a slow fire for about two
hours, by which time the Udder should be quite tender and
the liquor thick, and only half its original quantity. Turn
the preparation out on to a dish, and serve very hot, with
the onions sprinkled over.
UKA SOUP. — See Soups.
UMBIES- See Humbles.
UNICORN PLANT. — See Martinoes.
UNIVERSAL SAUCE.— See Sauces.
UNLEAVENED BISCUITS.— See Biscuits.
UNLEAVENED BREAD. — Bread that is made
without leaven of any kind.
Fig. 919. Tea-urn.
URNS. — The derivation of the term is uncertain; ac-
cording to some authorities it takes its origin from the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
675
Urns — continued.
Latin urere — to burn, as having been made of burnt
clay, or to hold the ashes of the burned dead.
Webster describes an Urn as “ a vessel of various forms,
usually a vase furnished with a foot or pedestal, employed
for different purposes, as for holding- liquids, for orna-
mental uses, for preserving the ashes of the dead after
cremation, and anciently for holding lots to be drawn.”
The tea-urn (see Fig. 919} takes its name from its
similarity in shape to the ancient Urn, and, as might be
expected in these days of artistic advancement, the shape
has undergone some modification, whilst retaining the
original title, or its co-relative the kettle (see Fig. 920).
Fig. 920. Rustic Swing-kettle or Urn with Spirit-lamp
(Adams and Son).
Urns were at one time very generally used to gi-ace the
tea-table ; but modern fashions have to some extent dis-
carded them — a fact that does not lend itself to the
commendation of modern wisdom. With the loss of the
genial Urn the tea-table is deprived of one of its greatest
attractions.
USQUEBAUGH. — The literal meaning for this term
is water of life, of which whisky is the corruption. The
word is of Irish or Gaelic origin.
UTENSILS. — See Culinary Utensils.
VACHEBIN. — The name of a French paste which is
described by Dubois, and used chiefly to make a case for
holding chantilly cream. It is compounded of ground or
pounded almonds, caster sugar, and whites of eggs. The
following receipt is for
Vacherin a la Chantilly.— Prepare a paste by beating up
lib. of ground almonds and 111), of caster or icing sugar
with as many whites of eggs as are necessary to bind it and
give it a firm consistence. Cut off about three-quarters of
the paste, and roll it out into a flat strip long enough and
deep enough to go round the outside of a charlotte- mould,
so as to cover the side, and overlap at the extremities of the
strip. Fasten the ends together with strong icing sugar,
and then, after trimming the edges all round to the exact
size of the mould, set it in a quick oven, and bake till
lightly browned. In order to keep the ends together
whilst the baking is going on, tie round the strip a piece of
broad tape, or string, removing it as soon as the join is strong.
Next form a flat round with the remainder of the paste,
and lay that on the top of the strip (see Fig. 921) after it
has been removed from the mould. Stick the bottom on the
V acheriu — continued.
strip with icing, and then put it in the oven again to set
and brown slightly. When the case is strong and cold,
turn it up and set it on a glass dish, with a lace-paper under-
Fig. 921 Vacherin Paste Case.
neath, and then proceed to decorate the outside of the case
with tinted meringue applied through a cornet, halves of
candied cherries, and beads of coloured meringue, as fancy
dictates. When quite ready, put the case in a drying stove
until the meringue is well set. Before serving, fill this
pretty case with heaped up whipped vanilla cream (chan-
tilly), and sprinkle some variegated nonpareils over the
cream (see Fig. 922). The base may be garnished with
macaroons, or other sweet biscuits, and the Vacherin may be
tinted pale rose, cream, or lavender.
VALENTIA ALMONDS. — See Almonds.
VALGIANO. — A Tuscany wine not much known in
this country.
VALOIS SAUCE. — See Sauces.
VANILLA (Fr. Vanille ; Ger. Banille ; Sp. Vain ilia). —
The Vanilla-plant ( Vanilla aromatica ) from which the
pods used in flavouring are obtained, belongs to the
orchid tribe, and is said to be the only one of that great
family which is of any economical value. It is a climbing
parasitical plant, the flowers (see A, Fig. 923) of which
are thick, fleshy, and dull-coloured. The pod, bean, or
fruit is very long and thin (see B, Fig. 923), exhaling a
powerful odour, which has an intoxicating effect upon
those who climb the trees to gather it. A section of it
shows it to be triangular in shape, and evenly marked
throughout the pulpy interior. When ripe the fruit
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c. , referred to, see under their special heads.
2 x
V anilla — continued.
yields from two to six drops of liquid, having a most
powerful, pungent, aromatic odour, and soft spicy flavour.
It is found climbing up the trees in Mexico, and an
Fig. 923. Vanilla. Flower-pod and Section of Pod.
inferior quality grows in Honduras, Guinea, Brazil, Peru,
and Ceylon. Pour sorts of Yanilla come to the English
market, in packets of fifty to one hundred pods. The best
comes from Mexico, and is worth five or six sovereigns
per pound. It is probably due to its cost that it is so
great a favourite ; the balsam of Peru is frequently used
as a substitute.
Its uses for flavouring are exceedingly numerous, the
following preparations being generally employed for that
purpose :
Essence of Vanilla. — (1) Cut three pods of Yanilla into
very small shreds, put them in a bottle with 1 pint of
brandy, and cork the bottle. Shake the Vanilla occasionally,
and in three months’ time it will be ready for use.
(2) Cut eight sticks of Vanilla into small jiieces, put
them into a magnum bottle, pour in lqt. of rectified
spirits of wine, and cork it down tightly. Keep the bottle
in a warm temperature for two weeks. Draw the essence
off and decant it in small well-stoppered bottles.
Extract of Vanilla. — Cut and chop very fine two or three
Vanilla pods, or pound them fine in a mortar. Rub or
pound into them a little powdered white sugar. Put the
Vanilla and sugar into a pint bottle, add to it 1 table-
spoonful of water, and let it stand all night. Next day
pour on it J pint of spirits of wine, cork it well, and let
it stand for a month, shaking it well every day.
Vanilla Flavouring. — (1) Steep 1 drachm of freshly sliced
Vanilla pod in 1 pint of 95 per cent, alcohol, for twenty
days. At the end of that time filter the liquor, and
bottle it ready for use.
(2) Split four Vanilla beans, clip them into bits with a
pair of scissors, and scrape out the seeds. Put seeds, husks,
and all into a bottle, then pour over the Vanilla 1 pint
of brandy or whisky, and cork it tightly. Shake the
bottle frequently for the first four or five weeks ; it is then
fit for use, and will keep for years.
(3) The flavouring obtained from Vanilla pods exceeds
that of the essence or extract, and is therefore preferred
by professional cooks. The pods should be stirred amongst
the substance to be flavoured, taken out when sufficient
flavour has been imparted, then washed in two waters,
and dried for future use. If care be taken, the pods may
last for a long time.
When using Vanilla the greatest care should be exer-
cised, as if it be in excess it is apt to have a nauseating
effect upon the palate. Although Vanilla is not injurious
to the human system when taken in moderate quantities,
nevertheless excessive doses are apt to produce a kind
of stupor following exhilaration. The following receipts
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Vanilla — continued.
give a very good idea of the numerous uses to which
the Vanilla flavour may be applied. Several other receipts
in which Vanilla is used will be found under various
headings.
Vanilla Barley Sugar. — Put lib. of best loaf sugar in a
saucepan with \ pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of acetic acid,
a liqueur-glassful of kirschenwasser, and 1 teaspoonful of
Vanilla flavouring. Boil the sugar to the crack degree,
then put in a few sheets of thin leaf gold. Oil a deep tin
dish, and pour in the sugar. When nearly set, mark the
surface with the back of a knife in the shape of diamonds,
then leave it till quite set. Break the sugar where it is
marked.
Vanilla Biscuits. — Beat the yolks of six eggs with Jib. of
caster sugar and a little grated lemon-peel. Beat the
whites of the six eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them lightly
in with the beaten yolks ; dredge in Jib. of flour, flavour
with a little essence of Vanilla, and work it till quite
smooth. Lay the mixture out in rounds on cartridge or
foolscap paper, using a biscuit-forcer for the purpose ; dust
them over with Vanilla sugar, and bake in a quick oven.
When cooked, take the biscuits out and join them together
in pairs. See Fig. 924.
Vanilla Cake. — Prepare about lib. of fine puff paste, roll it
out thin, sprinkle over a few drops of essence of Vanilla,
fold the paste over, and work it iVi. Put it on a baking-
sheet, having it 6in. wide and 2Jin. thick or thereabouts ;
surround it with a band of thick paper to prevent it
spreading while cooking, brush the surface with egg,
decorate it in any desired form, put it in a quick oven,
and bake for about two-hours-and-a-half or more. This
cake must be allowed to remain in the oven until
perfectly cooked, otherwise it would be soft and uneatable.
When done, sprinkle over some sugar, and serve cold. If
the Vanilla flavouring is not liked, the cakes may be
flavoured with almost anything, such as chopped orange-
flowers, orange or citron-peel, currants, Parmesan cheese,
or anything else that may be preferred.
Vanilla Cake a la Cussy. -Put lib. of sugar into a large
basin and add fourteen eggs ; whip these well together
over a slow fire for ten minutes, then add Jib. of butter
warmed to melting, Jib. of ground rice, and 1 table-spoonful
of Vanilla sugar. Put this into a plain mould (well
buttered and floured) about 3in. high and 9in. in diameter,
and bake in a moderate oven. Take the cake out of the
mould, and when it is cold glaze it with the following :
Put 1 pint of syrup at 36deg. and a stick of Vanilla
cut in pieces into a sugar-boiler, and boil to 3Sdeg. ; then
remove it from the fire, and when cool take out the
Vanilla and beat the syrup with a spatula until it is
granulated perfectly smooth and the icing thickens.
Vanilla Candy Tablets.— Put lib. of load sugar into a
sugar-boiler with just sufficient water to dissolve it. Boil
the sugar to the ball degree, then pour in a few drops of
acetic acid and flavour with essence of Vanilla. Work the
sugar against the sides of the pan with a silver spoon,
using the back part of the bowl, thus giving it an opalised
appearance. When finished working the sugar, pour it
into a tin dish, leave it till nearly set, then mark the
tablets out with the back of a knife on the surface of the
sugar. Before the sugar is poured in, the tin should be
lightly brushed over with oil of almonds. Dry the
sugar in the screen, and when hard snap it apart where
marked.
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
676 TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
677
Vanilla — continued.
Vanilla Caramels. — Mix well together 2lb. of the best
sugar, loz. of gelatine dissolved in § breakfast-cupful
of cold water, Joz. of pure paraffin-wax, -} pint of cream,
and lib. of glucose (if the caramels are made in the
summer-time, lloz. of glucose will be sufficient). Put
this mixture over the Are and stir it constantly, till
when a little is tried in cold water it makes a ball
if rolled between the fingers ; stir in then a flavouring
of Vanilla, take it from tire fire, pour it into well -buttered
tins, let it cool, and cut it into fin. squares. Wrap them
separately in oiled paper, and keep them in a cool place.
Vanilla Cheese. — Stir into J pint of cream 1 teaspoonful
of extract of Vanilla ; add 1 pinoli of salt and a little
sugar, mix 1 pint of cream with it, and whip it over the
ice till thick. Dissolve half a packet of isinglass and mix
some caster sugar with it ; put it in the cream, and
continue stirring for a little while longer. When of the
right consistency, turn the cream into a fancy mould, and
pack it in ice till set. Dip the mould in warm water,
wipe it, turn the cheese on to a dish, and serve.
Vanilla-and-Chocolate Cream. — Make some white Vanilla
and some chocolate cream, separately, but both of the
same consistency. Brush a mould lightly over with oil,
rest it slantingly on ice, and pour in a little of the
Vanilla cream. When that is frozen, alter the position of
the mould a little and pour in some of the chocolate
cream. When it is frozen, proceed as before until the
mould is full, changing the position of the mould each
time — sometimes leaning to one side and sometimes to
Fig, 925. Vanilla-and-Chocolate Cream.
another in regular intervals. Pack the mould in pounded
ice for two hours, or till wanted, then dip the mould in
tepid water, wipe it, turn the contents on to a raised dish
(see Fig. 925), and serve.
Vanilla-and-Chocolate Souffle (Iced). — Put the yolks of
sixteen eggs in a basin with 1 teacupful of clarified syrup
anil 1 breakfast-cupful of water ; beat them together, then
pass them through a fine hah- sieve. Turn the mixture
into a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire until it
becomes a thick custard, hut do not let it boil. Pour
some boiling water in a bowl to warm it, then turn it
out ; pour the custard into the bowl, stir in 1 teaspoonful
of Vanilla flavouring, and whip for several minutes ; then
stir in 1 pint of whipped cream, and pour all into a souffle -
mould. Pack it in ice for two hours, put a layer of
chocolate on it that has been melted in iced water, and
leave for two hours longer. Serve the souffld in the
mould.
Vanilla Cream. — (1) Put 1 J pints of milk in a saucepan
with half a pod of Vanilla, and boil it ; then take the
saucepan off the fire, put the lid on, and let the Vanilla
soak for an hour. Beat the yolks of eight eggs together
with fib. of caster sugar, then stir them into the milk,
and continue stirring over a slow fire till the custard
Vanilla — continued.
thickens, but it must not boil ; take the custard off the
fire, and stir it for a few minutes longer. Soak 1 Joz.
of gelatine in cold water for twenty minutes, then drain
and mix it in the hot custard. When the gelatine has
dissolved, strain the custard through a pointed strainer
into another stewpan, which stand on the top of some
rough ice ; stir the contents till they begin to set. Whip
If ] tints of thick cream to a stiff froth, take the stewpan off
the ice, and stir it in. Fill a cylinder -mould with the
cream, pack it in pounded ice, and leave till the cream is
set. Dip the mould into hot water, wipe it, turn the
contents out on to a dish, and serve.
(2) Boil a pod of Vanilla in f pint of cream for
twenty minutes, keeping the lid on the saucepan all the
time. Beat the yolks of thirteen eggs and the white
of one together with fib. of caster sugar and 1 pinch of
salt. Remove the Vanilla from the cream, stir gradually
with the beaten eggs, and strain the mixture through a
silk sieve into a mould that has been buttered inside.
Stand the mould in a bain-marie with hot coals on the
lid, and cook the cream till it is set. Beat the yolks of
eight eggs with Jib. of caster sugar and 1 pinch of
salt ; put them into a saucepan with f pint of cream and
a little extract of Vanilla, stir it over the fire till it is
of the required thickness* but do not let it boil, then
move it off. Turn the contents of the mould on to a hot
dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
(3) Boil half a pod of Vanilla in f pint of milk
sweetened to taste. Beat up the yolks of four eggs and
mix with them the flavoured milk. Put this custard into
a bain-marie, anil keep on stirring till the custard
thickens. Dissolve 4J sheets of the best French gelatine
in a little milk, and add this to the custard. Whip
1 gill of cream to a froth, mix it quickly with the
custard, pour it into a mould, and let it stand on ice or in a
very cool place till quite set ; then dip the mould in hot
water for a second, turn out the cream, and serve.
(4) Beat up three eggs and the yolks of twelve more.
Put over the fire in a saucepan sufficient cream, together
with the beaten eggs, to fill a quart mould. Sweeten and
flavour the cream to taste with powdered white sugar anil
extract of Vanilla, boil it up a few times, let it cool, and
mix the beaten eggs with it. Strain the cream five times
through a cloth. Pour it into a buttered mould, and set in a
bain-marie ; do not let it get boiling hot, but as soon as
the cream is set turn it out on to a dish. If there is any
cream left after filling the shape, put it over the fire
in a saucepan, stir with a wooden spoon, and as soon as it
begins to stick to the spoon remove from the fire, con-
tinue to stir for an instant, and then pour it over the
other cream. Let it stand till cold, then serve.
Vanilla Cream Fritters. — Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of
potato-flour quite smooth with a little milk, then pour in
1 pint of milk and the beaten yolks of six eggs and the
whites of two. Sweeten to taste and flavour with essence
of Vanilla. Strain the mixture through a fine hair
sieve into a lined saucepan, and stir it over a moderate
fire until a thick custard. Butter a dish, turn the mixture
on to it, spreading it out to about Jin. in thickness.
When cold, cut the mixture into small pieces and wrap
them separately in wafer-paper. Make some frying-
batter, dip each piece of the cream in it, put them into
boiling lard or butter, and fry a nice brown. Afterwards
lay them on a sheet of paper near the fire for a minute
or two to absorb the fat, then arrange them on a dish
that has been garnished with a folded napkin, and serve.
Vanilla Cream Ice. — (1) Mix well together lqt. of rich
fresh cream, a well-beaten egg, and lib. of powdered
white sugar; add a quarter of a Vanilla pod cut in pieces,
set it over the fire in a saucepan, and keep it constantly
stirred till on the point of boiling; then remove it from
the fire, and strain through a fine sieve. When cold,
place it in a freezer and stir till frozen. Repack the
freezer with ice, and let the cream ice remain well covered
till frozen.
(2) Put a pod and a half of Vanilla cut into small pieces
in a mortar with Jib. of loaf sugar, and pound them together.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
678
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V anilla — con tinned.
Put the Vanilla and sugar into a saucepan with 1 pint
of cream, the beaten yolks of six eggs, and \ wineglass-
ful of pale brandy. Stir the mixture over a slow fire till
smooth and thick, but do not let it quite boil, or the
eggs will curdle. Pass the custard through a fine hair
sieve into a freezing-pot, work it over the ice till frozen,
then turn it into a mould ; pack it in pounded ice till
set. Dip the mould in warm water, wipe it, turn the
cream out on to a fancy or glass dish, and serve.
(3) Boil l pint of milk with half a Vanilla pod in a
saucepan. Put into a basin ilb. of powdered sugar and
the yolks of six eggs, and with a spatula mix thoroughly
for ten minutes; add it to the boiling milk, stirring for
two minutes longer, and pour the whole into a copper
basin, placing it on a moderate stove to heat for five
minutes, stirring at the bottom continually with the wooden
spatula, and being careful not to let it boil. Remove the
basin from the fire, place it on a table, and add immedi-
ately 1 pint of sweet cream, mixing it for two minutes
longer ; let it cool for about thirty minutes, strain into a
freezer, put on the lid, and lay in an ice-tub, filling the
freezer all round with broken ice mixed slightly with
rock-salt, and turn the handle on the cover as briskly as
possible for three minutes. Lift up the lid, and with a
wooden spoon detach the cream from all round the
freezer and the bottom as well. Re-cover it, and turn the
handle sharply for three minutes longer ; uncover, and
detach the cream the same as before, being careful that
no ice or salt drops in. Put the lid on again, and
repeat the same three times. The cream should by this
time be quite firm. Have a cold dish with a folded
napkin, dress the cream over, and send to table.
Vanilla Cream Liqueur. — Cut into pieces 3 drachms
of Vanilla pods, and put them into a large jar together
with h grain of amber. Put 2lb. lOoz. of loaf sugar
over the fire in 3 pints of filtered water; when the
sugar has melted and boiled up once, pour it over the
Vanilla and amber in the jar, and let it stand till quite
cold ; then add 3 pints of brandy, cover the jar, and let
it stand for six days. Colour it with a little prepared
cochineal. Strain the liqueur, bottle it, and cork and seal
the bottles.
Vanilla Cream Sauce. — This is to be served with hot
cakes such as baba. Boil 1 pint of cold milk in a sauce-
pan. Put three yolks of eggs into a small vessel with 2oz.
of powdered sugar, loz. of flour, and a piece of Vanilla
pod lin. long. Beat these well together with a wire whip
for two minutes. Pour the mixture into the boiling milk,
stir again briskly with the whisk until it boils, remove
from the fire, and add § gill of maraschino. Beat again
for one minute, and pour the cream nicely over the cake
before sending to table.
Vanilla Cream Syrup. — This can be obtained by mixing
1 fluid ounce of extract of Vanilla with 3 pints of
simple syrup and 1 pint of cream or condensed milk. It
may be coloured with carmine if desired.
Vanilla Cup Custards. — Pound a Vanilla bean in a
mortar, mix in 3 pints of milk, eight well -beaten eggs,
and crushed loaf sugar to sweeten ; with this fill up
some cups, place them in a pan of hot water, set it in
the oven, and cook. Turn the custards out when done
(see Fig. 926), and serve either hot or cold.
Vanilla-and-Currant Cream (Iced). — Put ioz. of isin-
glass into a lined saucepan with 1 pint of cream, 2 table-
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
V anilla — con tinued.
spoonfuls of Vanilla sugar, and sufficient plain loaf sugar
to give it the required sweetness ; stir the mixture over
the fire until boiling, then move it to the side and stir
in quickly the beaten yolks of six eggs. Leave the
cream until cool, stirring it occasionally, then half fill
some small moulds with it. Put foz. of gelatine in a
saucepan with J pint of water, and stir it over the fire
until dissolved ; then mix with it 1 breakfast-cupful of
fresh currant-juice or syrup of preserved ones, and the
juice of one lemon; sweeten to taste with caster sugar,
and boil it up again. Strain the currant mixture through
a fine sieve, let it cool a little, then mix with H break-
fast-cupfuls of thick cream. When the Vanilla cream in
the moulds has got quite stiff, fill them up with the
currant cream and stand them on ice. When ready to
serve, dip the moulds into tepid water, wipe them, and
turn the contents out on to a fancy dish.
Vanilla Custard. — (1) Large. — Boil lqt. of cream with 12oz.
of sugar and a Vanilla pod. Beat well the yolks of
twelve eggs, and pour the boiling cream over them. Set
the mixture on the fire again for one minute. The
custard will not froth in the freezer if cooked much, but
should be taken off and strained as soon as slightly thickened.
Freeze and beat light, and serve as required.
(2) Small. — Pour 2 \ pints of boiling milk on a pod of
Vanilla that has been broken into small pieces, and let it
soak for an hour. Beat the yolks of five eggs with 2
table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, mix them in with the
boiled milk, and strain the whole through a pointed
strainer. Fill some cups with the custard mixture, stand
the cups in a flat stewpan, surround them with boil-
ing water to a little more than half their height, and stand
the stewpan on a slow fire to keep the water just simmer-
ing for fifteen minutes. When the custards are set, let
them cool in the water, then wipe the cups, and serve.
Vanilla Drops. — Cut up as fine as possible two Vanilla
pods ; put them into a mortar with a little sugar, and
pound them to a powder. Sift it through a fine sieve,
and mix it up with lib. of coarsely -sifted sugar; put this
in a basin and add gradually, stirring with a spoon,
sufficient water to make the paste of such a thickness
that it will fall from the spoon and none of it remain
sticking to it. Turn the paste into a sugar-pan with a
lip to it, set it on the stove, anti with a spatula stir
well until the sugar is dissolved and makes a slight noise.
Remove the pan when on the point of boiling, and work
well with the spatula until the paste when dropped will
retain its shape and not spread too much. W ith the pan
in the left hand and a piece of wire in the right, let the
drops fall on a smooth tin or cartridge-paper ; let them
harden in the hot closet for two hours, remove them from the
tin or paper, and pack away for use. Vanilla pods are
used in preference to the essence, as the latter is apt to
make the paste greasy.
Vanilla Eclairs. — Prepare an icing with 3 teacupfuls of
caster sugar and the whites of two eggs, and flavour it
with a few drops of essence of Vanilla. Put jib. of
butter in a saucepan with i /pint of boiling water, and
boil it up. Sift 1 pint of flour in the boiling water and
beat it well till quite smooth, then take the saucepan off
the fire. Break five eggs in a basin, and when the paste
is nearly cold beat in the eggs with the hand. Only a
small portion of the eggs should be added at a time. Beat
the mixture foi about twenty minutes. Butter some
baking-sheets, and lay the mixture on it in oblong pieces
about 4in. long and Hin. wide, leaving a space about 2in.
between these. Bake the Eclairs in a quick oven for
about twenty five minutes ; when cooked, brush them
over with the Vanilla icing, and leave them till cold.
Cut the eclairs open, and fill them with whipped cream
that has been sweetened and flavoured with Vanilla.
Vanilla Fritters. — Put into a saucepan i pint of water,
2 table-spoonfuls of sugar, and 34oz. of butter, and boil
for a few minutes. Drop in 5oz. of flour all at once, and
stir the mixture over the fire until the paste is firm and
well cooked. Take it from the fire, work in three eggs
one at a time, using a spoon, and beat the paste well
Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
679
V anilla — continued.
against the side of the saucepan. Add 1 teaspoonful of
Vanilla extract with the last egg. The more the paste
is beaten, the more the puffs will expand in the frying-fat.
Half fill the saucepan with hot lard. Drop in pieces of
the batter about as large as eggs, and watch them swell
and expand in the hot lard and become hollow and light.
Only four or five at a time can be fried, because they
need a lot of room. The fritters being slightly sweet will
be liable to fry too dark if the lard be made too hot, and
they may be as long as five minutes in it before they
begin to swell and run over. Take them out when done,
and serve hot.
Vanilla Jelly.— Cut two Vanilla pods into pieces, poui-
over them lqt. of boiling water, and turn them into a
lined pan. Steep 24oz. of gelatine in 1 pint of cold water
for half -an -hour, then strain it, and pour 1 pint of boiling-
water over it. Put the dissolved gelatine in the pan
with the Vanilla pods, add fib. of caster sugar, the juice
and finely-shred peel of two oranges and two lemons, and
the shells and well-beaten whites of four eggs. Put the
pan over the fire and stir the contents till boiling, then
strain the mixture through a jelly-bag, repeating the
operation till it runs quite clear. Decorate a mould with
dried fruits or strawberries, then pour in the mixture and
set it on ice till firm. Turn the jelly on to a fancy dish,
and serve it.
Vanilla Liqueur. — (1) Split two fresh Vanilla pods, cut
them into inch lengths, and soak them for three days in
h pint of the best brandy or whisky. Then boil ‘21b. of
loaf sugar in 1 pint of cold water to a clear syrup, skim-
ming off any scum that rises ; when thick and clear,
strain the spirit into it that the Vanilla has been steep-
ing in, mix the syrup and spirits well together, ami
bottle it in small bottles. A small quantity of this
Vanilla liqueur is a nice flavouring for an effervescing
drink, and it is useful as a flavouring for cakes, creams,
custards, &c.
(2) Put two pods of Vanilla broken up into a bottle,
pour in 2qts. of proof gin, cork the bottle, and let the
contents infuse for twelve or fourteen days. At the end
of that time boil Hlb. of lump sugar in 3 pints of water
until reduced to a clear syrup. Pour the spirit and
Vanilla in with the syrup and let the whole simmer for
nearly fifteen minutes. Filter the liqueur through flannel or
through a jelly-bag, bottle it, cork the bottles well, and
keep them in a cool dry place till required for use. Brandy
may be used instead of the gin if it is preferred.
Vanilla Lozenges. — Cut up four pods of Vanilla, put them
into a mortar with a little sugar, and pound to a
powder ; sift it through a fine sieve, and mix up with 21b.
more sifted sugar on a slab. Make a bay and pour in
sufficient dissolved gum — that is Mb. of gum Arabic dis-
solved in 1 breakfast-cupful of water — to make a stiff paste,
and roll it out to about fein. in thickness. Sprinkle the
surface with starch powder and caster sugar, smooth it
with the palm of the hand, cut it out into lozenges, put
them on wooden trays on the stove, and let them dry.
Pack away in tins or boxes for use.
Vanilla Pudding. — (1) Put a Vanilla pod in a mortar together
with Mb- of sugar, pound them well together, then sift
well. Separate the yolks and whites of nine eggs, beat
the yolks well, mix them with lqt. of cream, and stir in
the Vanilla sugar. Whisk the whites of the eggs to
a stiff snow, and mix them in lightly with the other
ingredients. Butter the interior of a pudding-mould, pour
in the mixture, and cover with a sheet of paper. Stand
the mould in a saucepan of boiling water, and steam the
pudding for a little less than an hour. In the meantime
prepare the following sauce for the pudding : Put 1
breakfast-cupful of either fresh or tinned pineapple juice into
a small lined saucepan with the juice of one lemon.
Place the juice over the fire until boiling, then pour it
slowly over 1 table spoonful of arrowroot, stirring it at
the same time ; return the sauce to the saucepan, and stir
it over the fire until thickened. When cooked, turn the
pudding out of the mould on to a hot dish, strain the
sauce over it (see Fig. 927), and serve. Care must be
Vanilla — continued.
taken that the water does not enter the top of the mould
while the pudding is cooking, or the pudding will be
spoiled.
(2) Put 2oz. of butter into a stewpan with 2oz. of
sugar and 2 table-spoonfuls of flour ; stir in gradually £
pint of milk, flavour with a few drops of essence of
Vanilla, and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon
until thick and boiling. When cooked, turn the mixture
into a basin, and continue stirring until nearly cold.
Separate the whites and yolks of six eggs, beat the yolks
well, and mix them in with the above ingredients ; whisk
the whites to a stiff' froth, and stir them in lightly at the
last. Butter the interior of a fluted mould, pour in
the mixture, cover it with a sheet of buttered paper,
and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked, turn the
contents of the mould on to a dish, and serve.
(3) Stir into 1 pint of milk flavoured with a little
extract of Vanilla the well -beaten yolks of eight eggs,
and sweeten to taste with caster sugar ; pour the mixture
into a mould, stand it in a saucepan with boiling
water to three-parts its height, place the lid on with hot
coals on the top, and keep it at the edge of the fire
where the water will not boil. When the cream is thick,
turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish, sift caster
sugar over it, and glaze under a salamander ; garnish with
macaroons, and serve with a sauceboatful of sweet white
sauce.
Vanilla Sauce. — Put 1 pint of milk into a saucepan with
a pod of Vanilla and loaf sugar to taste ; boil it, then
take the saucepan oft' the fire. Beat the yolks of three
eggs with 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, and add them to the
milk. Stir the sauce over a slow fire till thick, but do
not let it boil. Whip the whites of the three eggs to a
stiff froth with 1 table-spoonful of caster sugar. Mix the
froth with the sauce, and serve.
Vanilla Souffle. — (1) Beat together the yolks of three eggs
and 1 teacupful each of flour and caster sugar. When
well mixed, stir in gradually 1 pint of fresh milk, and
pass it through a fine hair sieve into a saucepan. Put
about loz. of butter, a pod of Vanilla, and a little salt
in with the other ingredients, and stir them over a very slow
fire till thick ; then move it to the side, and continue
stirring for a few minutes longer. Take the pod of
Vanilla out of the mixture, let it cool a little, then mix
with it the beaten yolks of five eggs, a small lump of
butter, and last of all the well-whipped whites of six
eggs. Make some little paper cases in the shape of a
long square, butter them, and nearly fill them with the
mixture ; it should be sufficient for eight cases. Put the
souffles in a slow oven, and bake them for eighteen
minutes. Serve the moment they are done.
(2) Mix with 6oz. of flour, 4 table-spoonfuls of caster
sugar, 2 table-spoonfuls of Vanilla sugar, 1 pinch of salt,
and H pints of cold milk. Turn the mixture into a sauce-
pan, and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon till
boiling and smooth, then take it off. Separate the yolks
from the whites of six eggs, beat the yolks, and stir them
in with the above mixture ; whip the whites to a stiff
froth, and stir them in also, only very lightly. Pour the
mixture into a buttered dish, and bake for about twenty-
five minutes. When cooked, take the souffle out of the
oven, dust some caster sugar over it, and serve at once.
(3) Put loz. each of butter and flour into a saucepan,
and stir them over the fire till well mixed ; then put in 1
dessert-spoonful of caster sugar and 1 teacupful of milk,
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, tfcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
680
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V anilla — continued.
which must he added gradually. Stir the above mixture
over the fire till thick, then move the saucepan to the
side, put in 1 pinch of salt .and the yolks of three eggs,
adding them one at a time, and beating well. Beat the
whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, mix them in with the
souffle, flavour with a small quantity of essence of Vanilla,
then turn all into a buttered mould. Stand the mould in
a saucepan with boiling water to a little more than half
its height, and steam the contents for half an hour.
When cooked, turn the souffle on to a hot dish, poui-
some vane sauce round, and serve at once.
(4) Put loz. of butter into a lined saucepan with 1
table-spoonful of flour and 1 saltspoonful of salt, and stir
them over the fire until mixed ; then add gradually \ pint
of milk and sugar to taste. Stir the mixture over the
fire until boiling and thickened. Afterwards leave it
until almost cold, then mix in the beaten yolks of four
eggs, and flavour to taste with essence of Vanilla. Whisk
the whites of six eggs to a thick foam, and add them
lightly to the above mixture. Butter a mould large
enough to hold the mixture and to allow room for rising,
pour the souffle in, dust it over with caster sugar, and
place it in a brisk oven. When well risen and browned
on the top, take the souffle out of the oven, pin a napkin
round the mould, and serve without delay.
(5) Slightly warm 4oz. of butter but without oiling ;
beat it well until creamy, then mix 4oz. of caster sugar
with it and the yolks of six eggs, adding the latter one
at a time, and beating the mixture well after each
addition. Continue to beat the mixture for twenty
minutes or more, then mix in the juice of half a lemon
and a very small quantity of powdered Vanilla. Whisk
the whites of the six eggs to a stiff snow, and stir them
gently into the above mixture. The whites of the eggs
should always be added at the very last. Butter a mould,
pour in the mixture, leaving plenty of room for it to rise,
and bake in a slow oven. When lightly coloured and
well risen, dust caster sugar over the souffle, and serve
immediately.
(6) Put 2oz. of butter into a lined stewpan, melt it,
and stir in with a wooden spoon, 2oz. each of flour and
Vanilla sugar and 1 breakfast-cupful of cream. Stir it
over the lire until boiling and thickened, then turn it into
a basin and continue stirring until cold. Separate the
yolks and whites of six eggs; beat the yolks, and add
them to the above mixture ; whisk the whites to a stiff
snow, and stir them in lightly at the last. Butter a
mould, pour the mixture into it, and bake in a brisk
oven. When cooked, turn the contents of the mould on
to a hot dish, and serve.
(7) Boil a pod of Vanilla in b pint of milk ; put \
teacupful of potato-flour in a basin, and mix it smoothly
with a little cold milk ; then stir in gradually the boiling
milk and sweeten to taste with caster .sugar ; pour it
into the saucepan and stir over the fire until boiling and
thickened. Leave the souffle mixture until nearly cold,
then remove the Vanilla and work in the beaten yolks
of four eggs. Whisk the whites of six eggs to a stiff
froth, and stir them in lightly with the above ; turn it
into a souffle -mould, sift caster sugar over the top, and
bake in a brisk oven until well risen and browned. When
cooked, pin a napkin round the mould, and serve the
souffle at once.
Vanilla Souffle Pudding. — Mix 5 table-spoonfuls of flour to
a smooth paste with J pint of cold milk, then stir in i2
pint of boiling milk ; pour it into a saucepan, and stir
over the fire for five minutes. Beat the yolks of five
eggs with 2 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, then mix them
in with the milk and flour, and flavour the mixture with
a little essence of Vanilla. Beat the whites of five eggs
to a stiff froth, and stir them into the above mixture
when it is cold. Coat the inside of a mould with butter,
ornament it with halves of dried cherries, and pour in
the souffle ; put a sheet of buttered paper on top, and tie
a cloth over. Boil the souffle for an-hour-and-a-half, then
take the mould out of the water, and in three or four
minutes’ time turn the sou Hie on to a hot dish, and serve
at once.
V anilla — continued.
Vanilla Sticks. — (1) Mix jib. each of chocolate and Vanilla
with some marzipan paste. When well mixed together,
roll it into sticks, lay them on a sheet of paper (see Fig.
928), and dry in a slow oven.
Fig. 928. Vanilla Sticks.
(2) Beat the yolks of four eggs together with 1 teacupful
of caster sugar and I table-spoonful of Vanilla sugar;
when well beaten, dredge 4oz. of flour in with the eggs,
add 1 loz. of warmed butter, and stir them till well mixed.
Fill a biscuit-forcer that has a tin piping-funnel (the same
width as a stick of Vanilla) attached to the end of it,
with the mixture, and press it out on to a table that has
been dusted over with caster sugar. Rub a warmed
baking-sheet lightly over with white wax, cut the piping
into pieces about 4in. long, and arrange them in parallel
rows upon the sheet. Prepare some royal icing, strongly
flavouring it with Vanilla sugar; fill a paper cornet with
it, and pipe it out on the sticks of paste. Bake the sticks
till lightly browned in a moderate oven, then take them
off the baking-sheet and put them on a dish.
Vanilla-and-Strawberry Ice. -Put H pints of thick cream
into a saucepan with a pod of Vanilla, and boil it. Put
Jib. of caster sugar in a saucepan with the yolks of six
eggs, and beat them together ; then pour in the boiled
cream and stir it over the fire till thick, but do not let
it boil or the eggs will curdle. When thick, pass the
mixture through a silk sieve into a basin. Mix 1 pint
of syrup at 35deg. with 1 pint of strawberry puree,
stirring them well together, then pass them through a silk
sieve. Turn the Vanilla cream into an ice-mould and
the strawberry mixture into another, pack them both in
pounded ice and bay-salt, and work the contents with a
spatula till smooth and frozen. Cut a piece of cardboard
to fit the centre of an ice-mould, and place it in per-
pendicularly, dividing the mould into two equal parts ;
fill one side with the Vanilla ice and the other with the
strawberry ice, remove the piece of cardboard, and pack
the mould in ice for two hours. When ready to serve,
dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it, and turn the con-
tents out on to a folded napkin on a dish.
Vanilla Sugar. — Cut lib. of Mexican Vanilla pods into
small pieces, put them in a mortar with lib. of loaf sugar,
and pound to a fine powder. Sift the sugar through a
line hair sieve, turn what is left in the sieve into the
mortar, and pound again. When all is finely powdered
and sifted, put the sugar in bottles, and keep them tightly
corked.
Vanilla Syrup. — (1) Rub Joz. of citric acid in a mortar
with a little simple syrup, and add gradually the remainder
of JgalL of the syrup and loz. of fluid extract of Vanilla.
Mix thoroughly and bottle.
(2) Put lqt. of spirits of wine and 12 drops of tincture
of Vanilla in a bottle, shake it well, pour in lqt. of
syrup, let it stand for lifteen or twenty minutes, then
filter until the liquid runs quite clear. Pour it into bottles,
and it is ready for use.
Vanilla Tartlets. -Peel and blanch 5oz. of Jordan almonds,
put them in a mortar with 5oz. of loaf sugar, pound them
to a powder, then mix with them a little Vanilla sugar.
Whip the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, then stir the
pounded almonds and sugar in with them. Butter some
tartlet-moulds, line them with puff paste, fill them with
the egg mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. The tartlets
can be served either hot or cold.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
681
Vanilla — continued.
Vanilla Water-Ice. — Pound sufficient Vanilla pods in a
mortar to flavour lqt. of water. Put lqt. of water in a
saucepan with the pounded Vanilla and ill), of loaf sugar.
Boil the ingredients together, then strain the mixture
through a fine hair sieve ; squeeze in the juice of one
lemon, put it in the freezing-pot, and freeze.
Vanilla Whipped Cream. — (1) Boil a little Vanilla in a
small quantity of milk ; strain it, and add the milk to
1 pint of cream, together with a small quantity of gum
dragon, a little orange-flower water, and sufficient powdered
white sugar to sweeten it. Whip all these together to a
froth, and pile it on a glass dish.
(2) Put 1 pint of sweet cream into a basin. Have a tub
or large dish or pan containing chopped ice and a little
water, and lay the hasin on top. With a soft wire egg-
whisk beat the cream slowly at first, and increase in
swiftness until it is a firm froth. Sweeten with 2oz. of
powdered sugar, and add 1 teaspoonful of Vanilla flavour-
ing, beating constantly. Let it rest, and use when needed.
Remove all the superfluous milk which may he found
with the cream before using it.
VASES (Fr. Vases; Ger. Vasen; Ital. Vasi; Sp.
Vasos). — The artistic cook and confectioner knows no
limit to the variety of these vessels, which he uses in the
preparation of ornamental dishes. Nor is he lacking in
the variety of materials from which these Vases are
made : alabaster, sugar, glass, gold and silver, gum
paste, marzipan, flour paste, plaster of Paris, fat, or any
other material capable of being worked into shape.
Illustrations of Vases in use will be found in this Ency-
clopaedia, some forming a centre piece for a cake, for
holding flowers, bonbons, truffles, fruits, and other
things.
VATROVSKIS. — A kind of savoury pasty of which
the Russians are exceedingly fond. They are prepared as
follow :
Put 14oz. of any white cheese into a cloth and squeeze
out all the moisture ; place it in a mortar with a small
lump of butter, and pound it to a smooth paste. Season
well with grated nutmeg and salt, turn it into a basin,
and work in with a spoon the yolks of four eggs. Have
ready about lib. of coulibiac paste, work it well with the
hand on a floured table or hoard, and let it get cold.
Fig. 929. Vatrovskis.
Roll it out rather thin, cut it into little rounds, put a
small quantity of the cheese mixture in the centre of
each, damp the edges, fold them over into a crescent
shape, and trim them. Put them on a well-buttered
baking-sheet a little apart (see Fig. 929), let them stand
for about twenty minutes in a slightly warm place, push
them into a moderate oven, and bake. Take them out
when done, put them on a napkin spread over a dish, and
serve.
VATS. — Large vessels used for holding wine or beer.
VEAIi (Fr. Veau ; Ger. Kalbfleiscb ; Ital. Vitello ; Sp.
Ternera). — It is acknowledged by cooks and butchers that
although British beef is superior m every way to that of
France, we are quite incapable of holding our own against
their Veal. This is said to be due to the mode of
slaughtering adopted by French butchers, and not to
superior breeding— the calf is bled before it is killed, and
bung head downwards for several days to induce the
blood to drain from the incision made in the neck. Such
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
V eal — contimied.
barbarous cruelty is condemned in this country and
rendered punishable by law ; but it is to be feared that
instances of its practice are not altogether unknown.
As the cook will have white Veal when it is to be got,
large quantities of slaughtered calves are imported from
France and Belgium. In this country, the cow-calf is
more frequently raised to maturity for the sake of her
milk and progeny, but the Continental breeder prefers to
supply the first demand, saving the cost of keep, and
selling what there is of the animal at a much higher price
than could be obtained for beef.
There are considerable differences in the quality of
Veal, which are easily detected. First, as to size— a large
Hereford calf is not reckoned so good as the smaller
Alderney, this being due to the breeds and the quality
of the mother’s milk upon which the calf has been fed.
Then again, the meat of a bull-calf is darker, firmer,
and more juicy than that of a cow-calf; but some parts
of a cow-calf are much to be preferred to the
same parts of a bull-calf, chiefly because of the udder.
The skilled cook, therefore, prefers the meat of the bull-
calf for cooking in joints, and the whiter meat of the cow-
calf for made dishes. The age of the calf influences the
quality of the meat. From eight to twelve weeks is quite
old enough to ensure the delicacy of the flesh, but in some
parts of the country calves are killed all the year round,
and in Dorsetshire they are rarely suffered to enjoy the
delights of this world longer than three weeks.
Another practice of the butchers that should be
deprecated is that of blowing out the meat so as to render
the flesh less cadaverous-looking by the filling out caused
by the air bubbles. The steel is thrust as far as it will
go through a small slit on the inside of each leg between
the skin and the flesh. Into this passage a pipe is then
introduced, through which the butcher blows with all his
might, inflating the cellular membrane as far as he can,
and then working it along with the hand until it is evenly
distributed throughout. In the first place the meat spoils
more readily when thus treated, and in the second place
the breath of the butcher is not always of the kind
that those of delicate stomachs would care to have
diffused through their food.
When selecting Veal, see that the fat over the kidneys
is plentiful, white, and firm ; when this fat softens, the
meat is stale. The veins of the shoulder should be blue
or bright red ; when they are of any other colour, the meat
is not freshly killed. When the flesh is clammy and
spotted, it is unfit for culinary use. Veal keeps very badly
at all times of the year, and as it is in season from May
to September it should be examined very critically, and
cooked within three or four days of slaughtering. The
part of the leg where the udder is skewered back very
soon turns, and unfortunately when once tainted, Veal
cannot be restored. To prevent such a contretemps, the
flesh should be frequently wiped with a dry cloth, the
skewer pinning the udder should be taken out frequently
and wiped, the pipe along the chine of a loin should be cut
out directly the Veal comes from the butcher, and the
skirt of the breast should also be trimmed off, and the
whole scraped, wiped dry, and dredged with flour. If the
meat be in danger of tainting from compulsory keeping, it
is advisable to plimge it into boiling water and boil it for
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
682
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
ten minutes ; then take it out and put it in cold water to
cool, and afterwards wipe it dry, and put it in a cold store.
The joints into which a butcher cuts a calf are shown
in Fig. 930.
The first idea is to cut off the head and quarter the
carcase. The hind-quarter is cut up into the knuckle (1),
fillet (2), loin with its chump (3), and best end (4), con-
taining the kidney and kidney-fat. In the fore-quarter is
the breast with its best end (5), and brisket (6), this
latter containing the sweetbread. The neck with its
best end (7), and scrag (8), the shoulder or oyster (9),
fore-knuckle (10), and lastly the head (11), which is
described under Calf.
Of all these parts the most economical is the leg;
its meat is solid and substantial. The fillet should be
weighed without the bone, and as it takes stuffing well it
is a favourite joint. The shoulder is rather coarser than
the leg, and is not so economical, having a large knuckle
and blade-bone. The loin is by far the most delicate
eating, and contains the kidney-fat, which should be
protected in roasting by covering with greased paper.
The breast stews or boils well, and contains the tendons
or cartilages of the ribs, which are esteemed a delicacy.
The part called by French cooks the noix, is a round
piece of tender muscle cut out of the fillet, and situated on
the inner side of the leg. It is taken out by pushing it
through the slice of fillet, and dissecting it off the outside
skin. Sometimes the whole cushion is called the noix.
Aspic of Veal. — Bone a shoulder of Veal and truss it to
an oval shape, fastening it with small skewers. Roll
some thin slices of fat bacon and raw lean ham, making
them as small as possible, and season with salt and
pepper. Push some holes in the Veal with a pointed
stick, then lard it with the ham and bacon in alternate
order. Cover the bottom of a deep stewpan with rashers
of bacon, then put in two calf’s feet cut up, and a few
slices of carrot and onion. Put in the Veal, dust it over
with salt, white pepper, and a very small quantity of
cayenne pepper, pour in 1 pint of stock, \ pint of white
wine, and 1 teacupful of vinegar. Put the lid on the pan,
and cook the contents slowly in the oven or at the side
of the fire for three hours. When the meat is nicely
browned, take the lid off the pan, and leave it for about
ten minutes; then take the meat out and leave it till
cold. Pass the cooking liquor through a fine hair sieve,
skim off all the fat, and make it of a deep colour with
browning or beetroot juice. When quite cold, take the
bindings off the meat. Skim off what fat may have risen
to the top of the jelly, warm part of it, and pour it over
the meat with a spoon. Leave the meat until the jelly has
V eal — continued.
set on it, then place it on a dish, garnish with the
remainder of the jelly cut up into rocky pieces, and serve.
Aspic of Veal with Salad. — Finely mince some cold Veal
with a third of its quantity of cold cooked bacon and a
small quantity of cooked tongue ; mix them together, and
season to taste. Pour a thin layer of liquid aspic jelly in
a cylinder -mould, and when it has set put in the mince
with sufficient liquid jelly to fill up the mould, then pack
it in ice till firmly set. Meanwhile wash and cut into
shreds some nice crisp lettuces, endive, and garden cress,
and mix together with chopped tarragon, chives, and
chervil in moderate quantities. Prepare a salad dressing
with oil and vinegar, allowing two parts of the former to
one part of the latter ; season with salt and pepper, and
stir it in with the salad mixture. When ready, dip the
mould with the Veal and jelly quickly into hot water,
wipe it, and turn the contents out on to a pain-vert that
has been placed on a round dish with a stand. Pile the
salad high in the hollow left by the cylinder, put a few
small diamonds of truffles on the top of the jelly, garnish
the base of the pain-vert with chopped aspic jelly (see
Fig. 931), and serve.
Attereaux of Veal and Ham. — -Cut into slices |in. thick
some cold cooked Veal and lean ham. Cut these into fiat
squares about lin. wide each way. String them on small
steel or silver skewers, arranging the ham and Veal alter-
Fig. 932. Attereaux op Veal and Ham.
nately (see Fig. 932), commencing with a Veal square and
ending with a Veal square. Dip the attereaux in egg,
roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry for a few minutes.
Take them out, and arrange in a dish on a folded nap-
kin. Garnish with sprigs of fried parsley, and serve as
hot as possible. They are held in the hand by means of
a table napkin, and the pieces are taken off the skewer
with a fork to be eaten.
Baked Leg of Veal with Cream Sauce. — (1) Put a small
leg of Veal in a rather deep baking-dish; melt a lump of
butter, pour it over the Veal, and roast in a slack oven.
Turn the meat occasionally, and baste it well. When
nearly cooked, dust over with a little flour and salt, pour
\ pint of cream over it, and finish cooking, basting from
time to time, and keeping the oven slack. When done,
drain the leg, put it on a hot dish, and arrange a ruffle
round the knuckle bone. Pour the cream in a small
saucepan, mix a little melted glaze with it, and boil till
slightly reduced. Add two or three drops of vinegar, then
pour the sauce over the meat, 'and serve.
Baked Loin of Veal with Cream Sauce. — Remove all the
bone from a loin of Veal, keeping the flap short, and
truss it. Put the loin in a deep baking-dish with a lump
of butter, and roast in the oven, keeping it well basted.
When cooked, trim the Veal to a square shape, then cut
it carefully across in thin slices. Pile the slices on a dish,
alternating each layer with a little finely-chopped truffle,
and building it in such a way as to resemble its former
shape. Boil some bechamel sauce till stiffly reduced, then
mix the beaten white of an egg with it. Mask the loin
with the sauce, cover it with grated Parmesan cheese,
pour a little warmed butter over it, and glaze under a
salamander. Garnish the loin with potato croquettes, and
serve with a sauceboatful of half-glaze.
Baked Veal Chops. — Cut off some chops and beat them
with a rolling-pin until they are quite tender, then put
them into a pan and cover with water. Put the lid on
the pan and simmer the contents gently until tender ;
when nearly done, dust over a little salt and pepper.
Take them from the pan and wipe with a cloth ; cover
with butter first and then with beaten egg, and sprinkle
over some sifted breadcrumbs. Put them on a baking-dish,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
m
V eal — continued.
and place in the oven to brown. Put a little parsley
round for garnish, and serve hot.
Baked Veal Cutlets with. Sweet Herbs. — Put some
chopped mushrooms, sweet herbs, winter savory, and
shallots, with lloz. of butter and some salt and pepper,
into a stewpan, and stir them over the fire until well
mixed and hot. Trim the cutlets nicely, spread over
them some of the mixture, brush over with beaten egg,
and coat them with grated breadcrumb. Lay the cutlets
on a baking-dish and bake them. Pour 1 breakfast-
cupful of white wine and a small quantity of cullis into
the saucepan with the remainder of the herbs, and boil
them ; skim the sauce. When cooked, lay the cutlets on
a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Blanquette of Veal. — (1) Cut about 31b. of breast of Veal
into small squares, put them in a saucepan, season with
a little salt and pepper, cover with water, and put them
over the fire till boiling. Skim the fat off the liquor, and
put in two onions stuck with three cloves and a large
bunch of sweet herbs. Move the saucepan to the side of
the fire, and let the contents simmer gently till the Veal
is tender. When cooked, drain the meat, and put it in
another saucepan. Put loz. each of butter and flour into
a large stewpan, stir them over the fire till well mixed,
then pour in the cooking- liquor of the Veal, and boil
for twenty minutes, stirring all the time. Thicken
the liquor with a liaison of three yolks of eggs, then
strain it through a pointed strainer into the saucepan
with the Veal. Warm the Veal up again without boil-
ing, then turn the blanquette on to a hot dish, sprinkle
a little chopped parsley over it, and serve.
(2) Take a slice of Veal weighing about 31b., roast it,
and when cold cut it up into thin round collops about 1 tin.
in diameter ; put these into a stewpan with 14 pints of
good white sauce, some button-mushrooms and trufHes
cut up in slices, also some thin slices of tongue about half
the size of the collops of Veal ; next pick out the best of
the trimmings of the Veal and chop them up very fine,
put them into a stewpan with trimmings of truffles, tongue,
and mushrooms, also chopped fine, add 1 gill of white
sauce, a little chicken glaze, and six yolks of eggs ; season
well with cayenne pepper and salt. Bring to the boil,
and pour out on a dish to get set ; when cold, proceed as
in the usual way for croquettes. Next make the
blanquette of Veal hot, and see that it is properly
seasoned ; dish the Veal up on a small border of mashed
potatoes, put the ragout in the centre, pour the sauce
over, put the croquettes round the base, and serve.
(3) Blanch a breast of Veal, put it in a stewpan with
an onion stuck with three or four cloves, a bunch of
sweet herbs, a few small pieces of lemon-peel, a blade of
mace, and a little under Jib. of butter ; put the saucepan
over a gentle fire for a few minutes, then pour in
sufficient hot water to moisten the Veal to height, and
stew it gently until nearly cooked. Take the Veal out of
the saucepan, and cut out the long bones. Strain the
cooking-liquor, and return it with the Veal to the sauce-
pan ; stew it until quite tender, then put in one dozen
oysters that have been blanched in their own liquor. Stir
in with the blanquette a small lump of butter and flour
that have been kneaded together, and 4 teacupful of
cream. When the blanquette is thickened, move the
saucepan to the edge of the fire, and stir in the yolks of
two eggs that have been beaten and strained with the
juice of half a lemon. Turn the blanquette on to a hot
dish, garnish it with fried oysters, and serve immediately
with cut lemons.
(4) Cut into 2in. square pieces 241b. of breast of Veal.
Soak it in fresh water for an hour, drain it well, lay it
in a saucepan, cover with fresh water, and boil, being-
very careful to skim off the scum. Add a bouquet garni, six
small well-peeled white onions, 2 good pinches of salt, and
] pinch of white pepper. Cook for forty minutes. Melt
about 1 l2oz. of butter in another saucepan, add to it 3
table-spoonfuls of flour, stir well for three minutes, moisten
with 1 pint of broth from the Veal, boil for five minutes,
and set it at the side of the stove. Beat up in a bowl
the yolks of three eggs together with the juice of a
V eal — continued.
medium-sized lemon and a very little grated nutmeg.
Take the preparation in the saucepan, gradually add it to
the egg mixture, and mix briskly with a wooden spoon
until all is added. Pour this over the Veal, and lightly
toss the whole over the fire for a few minutes, but be
careful not to allow it to boil again. It is then ready to
be served.
(5) Cut about 31b. of breast of Veal into pieces lin.
long, put them in a saucepan with two or three carrots
and onions, a head of celery cut into small pieces, a bunch
of parsley, thyme, and two bay-leaves tied together, a few
cloves, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient water to
cover the meat. Boil gently at the side of the fire until
the meat is tender, then take it out, and strain the
liquor through a fine sieve. Put loz. of butter and
1 heaped table spoonful of flour in a stewpan, mix them
over the fire, then stir in gradually as much of the strained
liquor well freed from fat as will make the required
quantity of sauce. Stir it over the fire until boiling, then
move it to the side, and stir in the beaten yolks of two
eggs, the strained juice of half a lemon, 4- table-spoonful
of minced parsley, and a few mushrooms Put the pieces
of Veal on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish
with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast, and
serve.
Blanquette of Veal a l’Ancienne. — The same as for
Blanquette op Veal, adding loz of salt pork cut into
small pieces, and cooked with the meat from the commence-
ment, and six sliced mushrooms, two minutes before
serving.
Blanquette of Veal in a Croustade. — Cut a cold roasted
fillet of Veal into collops 14in. long, 4 in. broad, and
Jin. in thickness. Put the Veal in a saucepan with a
quarter the quantity of sliced mushrooms and some German
Fig. 933. Blanquette of Veal in a Croustade.
sauce, and heat them over the fire. Prepare a paste croustade
2in. high and the same size as the dish on which it is to
be served; fix the croustade in the dish, turn the blanquette
into it (see Fig. 933), and serve.
Blanquette of Veal with Cucumbers.— Cut a cold roast,
loin of Veal into collops, and put them into some blanquette
sauce. Cut six cucumbers into quarters, and trim them to
the same size as the pieces of meat. Chop the trimmings
of the cucumbers with an onion, put them in a stewpan
with a little butter, and fry; then pour in 4 pint of sauce
tournee, and stew them by the side of the fire for an hour.
Skim the fat off' the sauce, and rub it through a fine hair
sieve. Put the cucumbers in some sauce tournee, and boil
gently till tender ; then put them in a basin with a few
drops of white vinegar, pepper, and salt, and leave for an
hour. Drain the cucumbers on a wire sieve, put the sauce
in which they were cooked in a saucepan with the puree
of cucumbers and onion, and boil till reduced. W hen some-
what reduced, move the sauce to the side of the fire,
and stir in the yolks of two eggs that have been well
beaten and 4 teacupful of thick cream. Stir the sauce
by the side of the fire till thick, but do not let it boil
after the eggs are added. Put the meat and cucumbers
in the sauce and make them hot, season with salt and
sugar, turn the blanquette on to a hot dish, and serve it.
Blanquette of Veal and Ham. — Cut 14-lb. of cooked Veal
into small pieces, and mix with it 4lb. of cooked ham
also cut into pieces. Put the meat in a saucepan with
1 pint of cream sauce, 1 teaspoonful of lemon- juice, a small
quantity of pepper and salt, and boil it. V hen boiling,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
684
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
move the saucepan to the side of the fire, add the yolks
of two eggs that have been beaten with 1 teacupful of
milk, and stir it by the side of the fire for a few minutes.
Turn the hlanquette on to a hot dish, garnish with two
hard-boiled eggs, and serve.
Blanquette of Veal -with Mushrooms en Croustade. —
Cut some cold roasted fillet of Veal into collops llsin. in
diameter and Jin. thick, slice a fourth of the quantity
of mushrooms, and mix them with the Veal in some
German sauce. Prepare a paste croustade 2in. high and
the size of the dish on which it is to he served, make the
blanquette hot, turn it into the croustade, and serve.
Blanquette of Veal with Uouilles. — The same as for
Blanquette of Veal, arranging Jib. of cooked nouilles
round the serving-dish as a border.
Blanquette of Veal with Peas. — The same as for Blan-
quette of Veal, adding 1 pint of cooked green or
canned blanched peas two minutes before serving.
Boiled Pillet of Veal. — Wash a small fillet of Veal, roll
it round, and tie it. Put the Veal in a saucepan, cover
with cold water, and place over a slow fire. When boiling,
move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and keep the
water boiling gently for about four hours, removing the
scum as it rises. When cooked, drain the Veal, put it on
a hot dish, and serve with a dish of boiled bacon and a
sauceboatful of white sauce.
Boiled Knuckle of Veal. -(I) Place a knuckle of Veal
in a stewpan (should! it be a very large one it may be
divided into two or three pieces), add a few blades of
mace, a little thyme, an onion, some whole peppers, and
a burnt crust of bread, and cover with from 3 pints to 4
pints of water ; cover the pan closely with the lid and boil
the contents. When done, place it by the side of the fire
and let it simmer for at least two hours. Take it up, keep
it hot on a dish, strain the liquor over, and send to the
table with lemon cut into slices for garnish (see Fig. 934).
(2) Put a knuckle of Veal into a saucepan, cover with
water, and when it reaches the boiling-point put in a
lump of salt ; move the saucepan to the side of the fire,
and keep it simmering till tender (it should take about
twenty minutes for each pound). When cooked, put the
knuckle on a hot dish, and serve it with a dish of boiled
salted pork and a sauceboatful of parsley and butter
sauce.
Boudins of Veal. — (1) Finely chop the remains of some
cold Veal, and mix with it a moderate quantity of finely -
chopped bacon and parsley ; season to taste with salt,
pepper, and the smallest quantity of mace. Put the
mince in a stewpan, moisten it with a few table-spoonfuls
of clear gravy, and stir it over the fire till very hot ;
next move it to the side of the fire, and stir in the
beaten yolks of three eggs. Thickly butter the interior
of some small tin boudin moulds, three parts fill them
with the above mixture, and tie .a sheet of buttered
paper over each. Stand the tins in a stewpan with
boiling water to about half their height, and boil the
contents for twenty minutes. At the end of that time,
turn the boudins out of their tins on to a hot dish, pour
some white sauce over them, and serve.
(2) Take some fat and lean of cold roasted Veal, chop
it very fine, and mix with it a seasoning of pepper, salt,
grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg, then mix with it a beaten
egg and a little good white stock. Butter a shape or
V eal — continued.
mould, press the mince firmly into it, lay a buttered
paper over the top, and tie a cover over it, if the shape
be not fitted with a lid. Put the mould into a saucepan
of boiling water, and let the contents boil for an hour.
Turn the boudin out, and serve it with a thick white
gravy ; or when turned out, brush the top over with
beaten egg, dredge sifted breadcrumbs over, and brown it
before the fire in a Dutch oven, basting it with butter.
Garnish with slices of lemon or fried parsley, or both.
Boudins of Veal with Mushrooms. — Cut Jib. of lean
Veal into small pieces, trimming off all the skin; put
them in a mortar and pound to a paste. Mix half the
quantity of panada with the Veal, continue pounding it,
then add 5oz. of butter. Season the mixture with salt
and grated nutmeg, beat in the yolks of two eggs, one
at a time, pound it for a few minutes longer, then pass
through a fine hair sieve into a basin. In twenty
minutes’ time mix a third of its quantity of chopped
cooked mushrooms with the forcemeat, divide it into small
equal quantities, roll them with the hand on a floured
table, thus giving them an oblong shape, then flatten
them with the blade of a knife. Dip the boudins in
beaten egg, and cover thickly with breadcrumbs. Put
them in a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry them
till nicely browned on both sides. Drain the boudins,
arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, fill the middle
with a garnish of cooked minced mushrooms, and serve.
Boudins of Veal with Tomato Puree. — Chop some lean
Veal and pound it in a mortar; mix with it half its
quantity of paste panada and half its quantity of minced
Veal-suet. Pound the whole together, and season to taste
with salt, pepper, and a moderate quantity of spices ;
pass the mixture through a fine hair sieve, and stir in a
sufficient quantity of heaten eggs to bind it. Butter two
or three small moulds, fill them with the above mixture,
stand them in a stewpan with boiling water to three
parts their height, and steam their contents for an-hour-
and-a half. Prepare the following puree for the boudins:
Slice some tomatoes, put them in a stewpan with a
moderate quantity of clear stock, and season to taste
with salt and pepper. Let the tomatoes boil gently until
quite tender, then pass them with their liquor through a fine
hair sieve, return them to the stewpan, and thicken with
a lump of butter and flour that have been kneaded together.
When sufficiently thickened, move the puree to the side
of f he fire. Plenty of tomatoes but only a small quantity
of stock should be used. When the boudins are cooked,
turn them out of their moulds on to a hot dish, pour the
tomato puree round them, and serve while hot.
Braised Breast of Veal a la Milanaise. — Bone a breast
of Veal weighing about 2 1 1 b. , and season with 1 table-spoon-
ful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of pepper. Stuff it in the usual
way with forcemeat, roll, and tie it, making a few inci-
sions in the skin. Put it into a braising-pan with a
sliced carrot and onion, and braise it for an-hour-and a-
half in the oven, hasting it occasionally with its own
gravy. Serve with J pint of hot Milanaise garnishing on
a dish, placing the meat on top, and straining the gravy
over it.
Braised Chump of Veal with Chicory or Sorrel.—
Lard one side of a chump of Veal and make an incision
across the other side about fin. deep, then make one
lengthwise forming a cross. Put the Veal into a sauce-
pan or braising-pan with three or four carrots, onions, a
bunch of parsley, and a small quantity of stock. Let the
broth simmer over a gentle fire till the bottom of the pan
is covered with a glaze, then put in lib. of meat and a
small quantity of water and stock. Put the lid on the
saucepan with some hot coals on it, and finish cooking
the contents over a slow fire, taking the vegetables and
bunch of parsley out when the meat is three parts done.
When cooked, glaze the Veal. Skim the fat off the
liquor, pass it through a fine hair sieve, and boil it up
again. Arrange a puree of chicory on a hot dish, put
the chump on it, pour the sauce over, and serve. A
puree of sorrel can be used in place of the chicory if
liked better.
for details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
685
V eal — continued.
Braised Cushion of Veal. — Carefully trim a cushion of Veal
but let the udder remain on it. Lard the cushion on
the side with bacon. Cover the bottom of a stewpan
with trimmings of bacon and minced vegetables, put in
the Veal, and dust a little pepper and salt over it. Fry
the meat over a slow fire for a few minutes, turning it
several times till lightly coloured, then pour in £ pint of
Veal broth. Stand the stewpan at the side of the fire,
and cook the meat till tender. When cooked, drain the
Veal, put it on a dish, and garnish with croquettes.
Strain the cooking-liquor of the meat, skim off all the
fat, boil it quickly for a few minutes, then thicken, pour
it into a sauceboat, and serve with the meat.
Braised Cushion of Veal with Mushrooms and Bechamel
Sauce. — Trim off the skin and udder from a cushion of
Veal, and lard the meat inwardly. Put two or three
slices of ham and bacon with some sliced vegetables
into a large saucepan or braising-pan, put in the cushion,
pour in a little white wine, and braise it, reducing the
moisture to a glaze. Cut twenty or twenty-four mush-
rooms into slices, put them in a flat stewpan with a little
butter, and fry till almost dry. Pour 1 pint of thick
bechamel sauce in with the mushrooms, boil it for a few
minutes, then move the stewpan to the side of the fire.
When cooked, cut the cushion of Veal into thin slices,
put a layer of the mushroom mixture on to a dish, then
a layer of Veal, next a layer of mushrooms, and continue
in this way till all the meat is used, building it to its
original form ; the top layer should be of mushrooms.
Put the dish in a hot oven till the surface of the meat is
nicely browned, then take it out, garnish with croquettes
of potatoes, and serve while very hot.
Braised Fillet of Veal. — Select a nice piece of fillet of
Veal, any part can be used ; put a lump of butter in a
saucepan, melt it, put in the Veal, anil brown it on both
sides. Pour clear broth or water over the Veal, put the
lid on, and steam over a slow fire, basting occasionally
with its own liquor. Peel and slice a carrot and onion,
and put them in a saucepan with a small quantity each
of lemon-peel, mace, and thyme ; pour in £ pint of water,
and boil for twenty minutes. Strain the seasoned water
over the Veal, and continue cooking it. When the meat
is tender, drain it, place it on a hot dish, and garnish
with slices of lemon and crisped rashers of bacon. Skim
the fat off the cooking- liquor, strain it through a fine
hair sieve, and serve with the meat in a sauce-tureen.
Braised Fillet of Veal with. Sweetbread. — Cut off a
fillet from a leg of Veal, lard it on one side, and turn it
over on the table with the larded side downwards.
Blanch a sweetbread, dry it, brush over with egg, dip it
into breadcrumbs, and fry in butter to a golden colour ;
take it out, drain it, place it on the fillet, roll it up, fasten
with a skewer, put it in a braising-pan with a little
stock and sliced vegetables, and braise it. Take it out, put
it on a dish, reduce the liquor after straining, pour it over
the cutlet, arrange round a dozen or so oysters and small
balls or cones of cooked carrot rubbed through a sieve
and worked up with butter, salt, and pepper, and serve
with thick gravy or sauce in a sauceboat.
Braised Knuckle of Veal. — Lard thoroughly a knuckle of
Veal weighing 31b., braise it in a pan with loz. of
fresh salt pork, 1 table-spoonful of salt, and 1 teaspoon -
ful of pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring occasion-
ally, and moistening with ^ pint each of white broth and
Spanish sauce. Add 1 pint of raw jardiniere, and 1
breakfast-cupful of flageolets. Cook for forty-five minutes
all together. Transfer the knuckle to a hot dish, pour the
garnishing over, and serve very hot.
Braised Larded Veal Cutlets with French Beans. —
Trim some small Veal cutlets, keeping the bone very
short, and lard them all on the same side with bacon.
Put the cutlets in a stewpan with some minced vege-
tables and clear stock, and braise them. When cooked,
glaze the cutlets. Boil some French beans in salted water
till tender, then drain them, choir them finely, and mix a
little butter with them. Put a flat mound of mashed
Veal — continued.
potatoes on a hot dish, pile the beans in the centre, lean
the cutlets against the beans, and serve with a sauceboat-
ful of gravy.
Braised Loin of Veal. — (1) Remove the bone from the loin,
and lard it with thick strips of bacon. Put some thin
slices of bacon in a stewpan, sift over some chopped
parsley, chives, and a clove of garlic, add a bunch of
thyme and laurel-leaves, put in the larded Veal, season
with salt and coarsely -ground black pepper, cover with
slices of carrots, onions, and turnips, moisten with stock
to a little more than half its height, and cook gently for
half-an-hour. When cooked, put the Veal on a hot dish,
strain the sauce through a silk sieve, boil it quickly till
reduced, then pour it over the Veal, and serve.
(2) Stuff a loin of Veal with Veal-stuffing, and skewer
it securely. Put some slices of carrots, onions, and
celery in a braising-pan, put in the loin, and cover it
with a sheet of thickly-buttered paper. Pour in sufficient
stock or water to reach to the top of the Veal, but not
to cover it. Put the lid on the pan, with live embers on
it, and braise the meat over a slow fire, basting it often
with the cooking- liquor. When the Veal is cooked (it
will take about three hours), drain it, and put it on a
baking-dish ; boil the cooking liquor quickly till reduced
to the consistency of half-glaze, then pour it over the
meat, and put it in the oven. Baste the Veal continually
till lightly glazed, then put it on a hot dish, garnish with
onions, carrots, and tomatoes, pour the remains of the
cooking liquor over, and serve.
Braised Loin of Veal with Cream Sauce. — Braise a loin
of Veal, and when done bone it, keeping it as good a
shape as possible ; this will be done better when the
Veal is cold. Cut the meat into thin slices, put them in a
deep frying-pan, moisten with a little rich gravy, and
warm slowly without boiling. Put l handful of trimmings
of fresh mushrooms in 1 pint of bechamel sauce, and stir
it over the lire for fifteen minutes ; pass it through a
fine hair sieve, then boil it till reduced, stirring and
adding gradually the liquor in which the Veal has been
warmed. When reduced to a thick consistency, remove
the sauce from the fire. Cover the bottom of a gratin-
disli with a layer of the sauce, and arrange symmetrically
the slices of meat, one by one, alternating each of them
with a little of the sauce. Coat the top of the meat
with some of the sauce, grate some stale breadcrumb over
it, and brown in a quick oven or under a salamander.
When done, drain off the fat, pour over a little rich
gravy, and serve the Veal.
Braised Heck of Veal with Truffles. — Trim a neck of
Veal, that part used for cutlets, cut the bone short, and
lard it with squares of black truffles in such a way as to
resemble a draught-board. Braise the meat with plenty
of bacon on the top, so that it will retain its white
colour, and glaze the Veal slightly. Put the meat on
a hot dish, cover with Italian sauce and truffles, and
serve it.
Braised Hoix of Veal. — Choose a small noix of a young
female calf, flatten it a little, retaining the udder, form a
crescent on the border of the fat, and pare the part where
there is no fat. Lard the Veal thickly with bacon. Line
a braising-pan with layers of fat bacon and slices of
vegetables, add a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves,
and a small quantity of mace, allspice, and whole pepper.
Put the Veal in the pan, dust a small quantity of salt
over it, cover with bacon, pour in sufficient broth to cover
the vegetables without reaching the Veal, put the lid on
the pan with some hot ashes on the top, and cook the
contents over a slow fire. When cooked, glaze the Veal
slightly, put it on a hot dish, and serve with macddoine
sauce.
Braised Hoix of Veal with Bechamel Sauce. — Remove
the udder and pare a cushion of Veal, lard it inwardly
with fillets of bacon, and season it. Line a braising-pan
with trimmings of ham and bacon and some sliced vege-
tables ; put in the cushion with about 1 teacupful of
broth, cover with bacon, and put the lid on. Place some
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces , <Ssc., referred to, see under their special heads.
686
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
hot ashes on the lid, and braise it over a slow lire till
well glazed. Cut some mushrooms into slices, put them
in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and fry them till
the moisture has reduced somewhat. Season the mushrooms
with pepper and salt, put them in 1 pint of reduced bechamel
sauce, and boil for two or three minutes, then move them
to the side. When the Veal is done, take it out of the
braising-pan and cut it into thin slices. Line the bottom
of a deep dish with the mushroom mixture, then arrange
the slices of meat on it, putting them into shape again,
alternating each slice with a small quantity of the mush-
room mixture, and cover the top also with the same mixture.
Put the dish in the oven till the surface of its con-
tents is nicely coloured, then take it out, garnish with
croquettes of potatoes, and serve.
Braised Stuffed Loin of Veal with Aspic. — Chop and pound
together an equal quantity of fillet of Veal and loin of
bacon, season them with spices and salt, and mix with
them two calf’s kidneys and an equal quantity of truffles
and tongue, all cut into small cubes or squares. Bone a
loin of Veal, cover it with the forcemeat, fold the sides
over, and tie it with string to keep it in shape. Wrap
the meat in a cloth, put it in a braising-stewpan, and
cover with mirepoix. When boiling, move the stewpan to
the side of the fire, and keep the contents simmering
gently for four hours. At the end of that time, move the
stewpan from the stove, leave the Veal in the liquor till
cooled, then drain it, take the cloth off, wrap it in another
clean one, and press it between two dishes with a heavy
Fig. 935. Braised Stuffed Loin of Veal with Aspic.
weight on the top till quite cold. Prepare a rice socle on
a dish, and coat it with Montpellier butter. Untie the
meat, trim it, and brush over with meat-glaze ; put it on
the rice socle, garnish with croutons and chopped aspic
jelly and parsley (see Fig. 935), and serve.
Braised Tendons of Veal. — Cut the tendons into equal
sized pieces, put them in a stewpan with some sliced
carrots, turnips, onions, celery, a little parsley, some
cloves, and a feAv peppercorns. Cover them well with
stock or water, and put in a lump of salt. Place the lid
on the stewpan with some hot coals on the top, and
braise the contents over a slow fire for three or four
hours. When the tendons are rather soft and almost
transparent, they will lie cooked. Drain them, and press
them between two plates till nearly cold. Skim and
strain the cooking- liquor through a fine hair sieve, put it
in another saucepan, and boil quickly till reduced to glaze.
Trim the tendons, put them in the glaze, and make hot.
Arrange the tendons in a circle on a hot dish, fill the
centre with spinach prepared as for garnish, pour the
glaze round, and serve.
Breast of Veal a la Poulette. — Cut a breast of Veal into
small equal-sized pieces, blanch them, put them in a
saucepan with a little of the water in which they were
blanched, and warm over the fire. Sift in a small quan-
tity of flour, stir it till smooth, then put in a lump of
butter, some carrots, mushrooms, laurel-leaves, a bunch of
sweet herbs, and some salt and pepper. Put the lid on
the saucepan and cook the contents slowly till nearly
done, then put in some young white onions and finish
cooking. When cooked, put the pieces of Veal on a hot
dish, and keep it near the fire while the sauce is being-
prepared. Strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair
sieve into another saucepan, squeeze in a little lemon
juice, anil pour in the beaten yolks of three eggs ; stir it
"Veal— continued.
over the fire till thick, not letting it boil, then pour it
over the Veal, and serve.
Breast of Veal en Ragoftt. — (1) Roast abreast of Veal in front
of a clear fire till about half cooked, then bone it, and put
it into a saucepan with 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped
truffles and lqt. of Veal broth. Stew the Veal gently by
the side of the fire till tender, then put in two dozen
oysters, six each of pickled mushrooms and pickled
cucumbers cut into small pieces, and the yolks of three hard-
boiled eggs. Cut the sweetbread of the Veal into slices,
season them with salt and pepper, put them in a frying-
pan with a lump of butter, and fry till nicely browned on
both sides. When cooked, put the Veal on a hot dish,
and place the slices of sweetbread round it. Thicken the
gravy with a little flour and butter that have been worked
together, pour it over the Veal, garnish with Veal force-
meat balls, and serve.
(2) Fry the centre part of a breast of Veal, after the
two ends have been cut off, in butter till it is nicely
browned. Put it into a stewpan with a few small bits of
bacon nicely trimmed and some stock. Cover the stewpan
closely, and let the Veal stew till it is almost done ; then
take the Veal out of the stewpan, and strain the gravy.
Skim oft' all the fat, and put the gravy, or as much of it
as will be required, into the stewpan again ; thicken with
flour and butter, turn the Veal into it again, and let it
simmer till quite done. Take it out of the gravy, lay it
on a hot dish, stir into the gravy a flavouring of lemon-
juice or lemon pickle and a little walnut and mushroom
ketchup, or a small quantity of Worcestershire sauce,
pour it hot over the Veal, and serve.
Breast of Veal Glace. — Bone the Veal within 2in. of the
gristle, and trim it to as square a shape as possible ; tie
down the meat so that it may look very plump, and cut
the soft bones beyond the gristle. Place two or three
rashers of bacon in a stewpan, put in the Veal, with three
carrots, three onions, two bay-leaves, and two or three cloves,
moisten with 1 breakfast-cupful of stock, cover with two
or three more rashers of bacon and a sheet of buttered
paper, and place it over the fire. When the liquor boils,
move the pan to the side of the fire, put the lid on with
some hot cinders on the top, and cook the contents gently.
When the meat is about three-parts cooked, take out the
carrots, &c., and reduce the liquor to a glaze, turning the
meat that it may be equally glazed. When cooked, place
the meat on a hot dish, and pour into the saucepan
1 breakfast -cupful of Spanish sauce and h teacupful of
stock, and stir it over the fire until boiling. Pour the
sauce over the meat, and serve.
Brisotin of Veal. — Cut up six pieces of lean Veal about
j-in. thick and Gin. in length. Flatten them with a cutlet-
bat, and season with l pinch of salt and h pinch of pepper.
Lard the centres, using a small larding-neeille, with strips
of fat pork or bacon. Cover with any kind of forcemeat,
roll them up, and tie with string. Put them into a deep
saute -pan with a very little fat, one sliced carrot, and one
medium-sized sliced onion. Cover the whole with a piece
of buttered paper, set it on the fire, and let it take a good
golden colour for about five minutes. Moisten with \
pint of white broth, remove the saucepan to the oven, and
cook slowly for twenty minutes, hasting it occasionally.
Turn the Avhole carefully out on to a dish, and serve at
once.
Brisotin of Veal d l'Ecarlate. — This is prepared the same
as for Brisotin of Veal, adding i pint of hot ecarlate
sauce before serving.
Brisotin of Veal a la Nantaise. — The same as for
Brisotin of Veal, placing six stuffed lettuce-heads
round the dish for garnish, and pouring over 1 gill of
hot Madeira sauce.
Broiled Breast of Veal. — Half roast the breast, score
it, and sprinkle it well with a few sweet herbs and
parsley chopped very fine, some salt and pepper, and then
broil it over a clear fire. For the sauce take some gravy,
put it into a saucepan over the fire with an onion, an
anchovy, a little mace, some grated nutmeg, and a little
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, (be., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
687
V eal — continued.
salt, and boil it well for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Before
serving, put in a bit of butter with 1 dessert-spoonful of
flour rubbed into it, stir till it boils, and then let it boil
for ten minutes ; strain it, add to it some chopped capers
and small mushrooms, and pour it over the Veal when it
is dished. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Broiled Cushion of Veal larded with Anchovies (am
Anchois). — Skin a cushion of Veal, interlard it with fillets
of anchovies, and let it soak for two hours in plenty of
water. Put the Veal in a stewpan with some fresh
water, and stand it over the fire till boiling ; then drain
and wipe the Veal with a towel, put it in a basin with
a bay-leaf and a few sprigs of rosemary, dust it over with
pepper and salt, and baste with oil. In twenty-four
hours’ time, broil the Veal, basting and turning it.
When cooked, put it in a basin, baste it with more oil
and lemon-juice, and leave it for twelve hours. Cut the
Veal into thick slices, put them on a dish, and sprinkle
over some chopped parsley, onions, gherkins, and capers.
Garnish the meat with slices of hard-boiled eggs, pour
the oil and lemon-juice in which it soaked over it, and
serve.
Broiled Veal a la Venisiemie. — Procure some rather thick
and large slices of Veal, and lay them on a dish, with a
few chopped mushrooms and shallots, some chopped parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf. Dredge them over with salt and
pepper, and baste them with a few table-spoonfuls of olive
oil. Let the slices steep in this marinade for about an
hour, turning them occasionally so that they are equally
flavoured. Strew them over with finely-grated breadcrumb,
lay them side by side on a gridiron, and broil over a clear
fire. Turn them when done on one side, and baste with
the remains of the marinade. When cooked, arrange the
slices of Veal on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a Seville
orange over them, and serve.
Broiled Veal Chops. — (1) Cut off some chops, trim off the
fat, and beat them till quite tender. Put them into a
pan, pour in enough boiling water to cover, place the lid
on, and stand the pan at the side of the fire, where the
chops can simmer gently until done. When about three-
parts done, sprinkle over a little salt and pepper. When
done, take them from the pan, dry them in a cloth,
spread a little butter over them, then brush over with
Fig. 936. Broiled Veal Chops.
egg, and sprinkle over some bread or biscuit-crumbs. Put
them in the oven on a baking-sheet, and when a nice
brown arrange them on a dish round a pile of mashed
potatoes (see Fig. 936), and serve them.
(2) Trim six Veal chops to a nice shape, rub them well
with salt and pepper, and roll them in warmed butter.
Afterwards dip them in beaten egg and coat them
thickly with breadcrumbs. Lay the chops on a gridiron,
and broil them over a clear but rather slow fire, turning
them when done on one side. While the chops are cooking,
V eal — continued.
make hot some clear gravy, and season it to taste.
Spread a folded napkin or fancy dish-paper over a hot
dish, arrange the chopis on it, garnish with fried parsley,
and serve with the gravy in a sauceboat ; or, if preferred,
the chops may be put on the dish without the napkin,
and the gravy poured over them.
(3) Season some Veal chops with pepper and salt, and
lay them in warmed butter ; when well soaked, dip them
into beaten egg, then roll each one separately in sifted
breadcrumbs. Lay them on a dish, shaping them as
round as possible, and when all are ready, broil them over
a very clear fire. The fire should not be very hot, or the
breadcrumbs will burn. It is a good plan to lay a sheet
of well-buttered paper over the gridiron and the chops.
Broiled Veal Cutlets. — (1) Cut six Veal cutlets from a
fine piece of the loin of white Veal, pare and flatten them
slightly, lay them on a dish, and season with 1 table-
spoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, and 1 table -
spoonful of sweet-oil. Turn the cutlets over several
times to have them well covered, put them on the broiler
over a clear fire, and cook for eight minutes on each side.
Kemove them from the fire, arrange them on a hot dish,
spread over a little maitre-d’hotel butter, and send to
table as soon as possible.
(2) Cut some chops from the ribs rather thin, leaving
a clear inch of bone ; trim off the gristle, beat them,
season with pepper and salt, and dip them in melted
butter and then in breadcrumbs ; lay a sheet of paper
dipped in melted butter on a gridiron, put the cutlets
on it, and when the fire is clear put the cutlets over.
When nearly done, take the paper away, and brown the
cutlets on both sides ; dish, and garnish with lemon and
parsley.
Broiled Veal Cutlets with Colbert Sauce. — Trim a few
Veal cutlets, beat them slightly with a cutlet-bat,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roll them in melted
butter and breadcrumbs ; broil them on both sides over
a clear fire, dish them in a circular form round a puree
of French beans, and pour over some colbert sauce, which
is made by mixing 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley
and a little grated nutmeg with 1 breakfast-cupful of
flutter. Put in a stewpan 1 breakfast-cupful of melted
meat glaze, and let it boil ; then move it back and add by
degrees the prepared butter alternately with the juice of
three lemons ; stir quickly over the fire, but do not let it
boil. When the sauce has thickened, take it off the fire,
and add an eggcupful of cold water.
Broiled Veal Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. — Beat some
cutlets with the flat side of a chopper, trim them, season
with salt and pepper, and arrange them on a gridiron.
Broil the cutlets over a clear fire, turning them, and
basting with butter. When cooked, brush the cutlets over
with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze, arrange them
in a circle on a hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful
of tomato sauce.
Broiled Veal Sausages. — Put some neck of Veal and calf’s
udder, cut into thin strips, in a saucepan with some
water, and boil them. Put some chopped truffles, mush-
rooms, shallots, and parsley in a saucepan with a lump
of butter, and fry them for a few minutes ; then pour in
some white wine and chicken broth mixed in equal
quantities, season with mixed spices, and boil till reduced
to half its original quantity. Drain the strips of Veal
and udder, cut them into small pieces, and put them in
the above mixture; add the beaten yolks of eight eggs,
and a little salt and pepper, move the saucepan to the
side of the fire, and stir the contents, but do not let
them boil. Blanch and soak some calf’s intestines in vinegar
and water, drain them, fill with the forcemeat, and
divide into sausages. Put the sausages in a saucepan,
cover with white wine and stock, put in a lump of sugar,
and boil them gently. When cooked, drain the sausages
and leave them till cold. Put the sausages on a gridiron
that has been slightly greased, and broil them over a
clear slow fire. When cooked, put the sausages on a
dish-paper or a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , tCc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
688
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V eal — continued.
Broiled Veal Steak. — Well grease a gridiron, put the
steak of Veal on it, and broil over a clear fire, turning
it frequently. Finely chop four young onions, put them
in a saucepan, with a little tomato ketchup, a little
thyme, and loz. of butter ; fry them for a few minutes,
then pour in 1 teacupful of broth, and boil slowly for
twenty minutes. When cooked and nicely browned, put
the Veal steak on a hot dish, with a lump of butter on
it. Stir 1 table-spoonful of Hour in the gravy, colour it
with a little browning, pour in a few drops of wine, and
stir over the fire till boiling fast. Pour the gravy over
the Veal, and serve with a dish of spinach or sorrel.
Cannelon of Veal. — Finely mince 21b. of cold roasted Veal
and lib. of cold ham ; mix well among it 1 table -spoonful
of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of powdered mace, 1
bare teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel, and salt
and pepper to taste. Stir in then the beaten yolks of
three eggs, J pint of good gravy, and 4oz. of sifted
breadcrumbs ; shape this into a thickish short roll with
floured hands. Flour the outside, and put it in a well-
greased baking-pan ; lay a cover over it, and put it in
the oven till smoking hot ; then take off the cover from
the tin and let the cannelon brown ; draw it to the door
of the oven, and brush it over with beaten white of egg ;
push it in again, and shut the door for a minute to let
Fig. 937. Cannelon of Veal.
it glaze. Put the cannelon carefully on a hot dish,
garnish with three-cornered pieces of fried bread, potato
croquettes, and quarters of lemon (see Fig. 937), pour over
a rich brown gravy, and serve hot.
Chump of Veal a la Bourgeoise. — Lard a chump of Veal
with strips of bacon. Butter the inside of a stewpan,
put in some slices of bacon and trimmings of Veal, put
the chump over them, then add three or four leeks, onions,
carrots, a few sprigs of parsley, and J pint of stock. Place
the cover on the stewpan, with some live embers on it,
and braise the contents over a slow fire. When cooked,
drain the Veal and glaze it. Strain the sauce through a
fine hair sieve into another stewpan, boil it quickly till
reduced to a glaze, then pour in J teacupful of Spanish
sauce ; boil it, pour it over the Veal, and serve. White
wine and gravy coloured with a little browning may be
used instead of the Spanish sauce if preferred. A lump
of butter should be dissolved in the sauce before it is
poured over the Veal.
Chump of Veal a la Baube. — Remove the bone from the
chump-end cut oft' a loin of Veal, and fill the cavity with
forcemeat; tie it up, put it in a saucepan with the bone,
a bunch of sweet herbs, one anchovy, one blade of mace,
1 teaspoonful of peppercorns, and 1 pint of Veal broth.
Put some slices of bacon over the Veal, and cover with a
sheet of paper. Keep the saucepan closed, and stew the
contents gently for two hours. When cooked, take the
bacon out, and glaze the Veal. Put the Veal on a hot
dish, and serve it with a sauceboatful of mushroom sauce.
Chump of Veal a la Nivernaise.— Bone a chump of Veal
and tie it up to its original shape. Put the Veal into a
stewpan with J pint of Veal stock, boil it till reduced
to a glaze, and then pour in lqt. of mirepoix ; when boiling,
move the stewpan to the side of the fire and keep the
contents simmering till the Veal is tender. Cut the ends
off some small carrots and turn them to the shape of
olives. Put the carrots in boiling water for five minutes
to blanch them, then dre:n them, put them in a saucepan,
cover with chicken broth, season with salt, pepper, and a
Veal — continued.
pinch of sugar, and boil the liquor till reduced to glaze.
When cooked, glaze the meat, put it on a hot dish,
garnish with the carrots, pour some reduced Spanish
sauce over, and serve with a sauceboatful of half-glaze.
Collared Breast of Veal. — (1) Make a forcemeat of grated
ham, chopped oysters, chopped parsley, sifted breadcrumbs,
a little grated or finely-chopped lemon-peel, and a little
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; mix all well together,
and then mix in some well-beaten eggs according to the
quantity of forcemeat. Bone a breast of Veal, spread the
forcemeat thickly over it, roll it up, and bind into shape
with tape; put the meat into boiling water, and let it
boil slowly for three hours. Boil the bones with a bunch
of sweet herbs, a little salt, some pepper, and an
onion, letting them boil twenty minutes longer than the
Veal. Before serving, strain it, put it back again over
the fire in a saucepan with a piece of butter well rolled
in flour, stir it till it boils, and boil for ten minutes ; add
to it the yolks of two eggs beaten up with 3 table-spoon-
fuls of cream, stir well, and let it get quite hot, but do
not let it boil after the cream and eggs are added. Par-
boil a sweetbread, cut it into pieces, dip them in beaten
egg, roll them in a paper of sifted breadcrumbs, and fry
a light brown. Fry also some balls of the forcemeat.
Take up the Veal, cut the tapes and remove them, lay
the Veal on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and
garnish with the fried pieces of sweetbread and the force-
meat balls.
(2) Trim off the outside skin, and bone a breast of Veal ;
beat it Hat, then brush it over with beaten yolk of egg ;
season the Veal with pounded mace, cloves, grated nutmeg,
finely-chopped parsley, sweet herbs, pepper and salt, ami
the finely-grated peel of half a lemon. Roll the Veal up,
wrap it in a cloth, and tie it round. Put the Veal in a
saucepan with plenty of boiling water, and boil it for
two-hours-and-a-half. When cooked, take the Veal out,
and drain and press it under a heavy weight till cold.
Remove the cloth from the Veal, and put it in a sauce-
pan with some strongly-salted water and £ pint of vinegar.
Boil it up, turn the Veal and pickle into a dish, and
leave it till cold.
(3) Bone a breast of Veal, beat it Hat, and brush it
over with beaten yolk of egg. Season some breadcrumbs
with pounded anchovy, 3 or 4 table- spoonfuls of finely-
chopped parsley, a few sprigs of sweet marjoram, the
thickly-shred peel of half a lemon, pepper ami salt, and
a small quantity each of grated nutmeg and beaten mace.
Mix these thoroughly, and then spread over the Veal.
Roll the meat up tightly, bind it with tape, and wrap it
in a cloth. Put it into a saucepan with a moderate-
sized lump of salt and sufficient water to cover, and boil
for two-hours-and-a half. When cooked, take the Veal
out and hang it up; when well drained, put it in a
pickle made with 1 pint of salted water and l pint of
vinegar.
(4) Take all the bones from a breast of Veal, and beat
it flat. Spread over the inside a rich forcemeat mixed
with beaten eggs ; roll the meat up tight, bind it flrmly
with tape, put it into a baking-dish with a little weak
stock, and bake. Have ready a rich gravy, strained and
thickened, and when the Veal is dished and the binding
removed, pour it over. Serve with slices of lemon round,
and, if desired, a few forcemeat balls.
(5) Bone a breast of Veal. Put into a mortar eighteen
oysters, 3oz. of finely-chopped suet, 2oz. of sifted bread-
crumbs, a seasoning of thyme, marjoram, salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg, and beat and mix them well together with
the pestle ; when beaten to a paste, spread it over the
inside of the boned breast of Veal, roll it up tight, sew it
firmly in a cloth, and boil for three hours. Serve it hot
with white sauce. The dish the Veal is served on may
he garnished with fried forcemeat balls.
Collops of Veal d la Turque. — Cut some Veal into slices
about Jin. thick, season them with salt and pepper, put them
on a gridiron, and turn the meat frequently over a moderate
charcoal fire till nicely browned. Put the slices of meat
in a stewpan with two or three peeled cloves of garlic,
2 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a small quantity of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, < ice., referred to, sec under their special heads
ARTISTIC MODES OF SERVING VEGETABLES.
1. Asparagus.
2. Cauliflowers.
3. Stuffed Mushrooms.
4. Spinach and Poached Eggs.
5. New Potatoes.
6. Green Peas.
7. Asparagus Points with Ci-ioux.
8. Stewed Mushrooms in a
Croustade.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
689
Veal — continued.
cinnamon ami cumin ; cover with clear stock broth, put the
lid on the pan, draw it over a slow charcoal lire, ami
simmer till the meat is tender. When cooked, put the
slices of meat on to a hot dish, and serve.
Cream of Veal. — Cut the tenderest part of a fillet of Veal
into small pieces, put them in a mortar with an equal
quantity of bread that has been soaked in boiling milk,
and pound them. Stir into the above mixture the yolk
of one egg, the whites of two, and sufficient cream to
bring it to a stiff batter ; season with salt and pepper.
Butter a plain mould, ornament the inside with thin
slices of truffles, and pour in the mixture. Stand the
mould in a saucepan with boiling water to three
parts its height, and let it steam for an hour. At
the end of that time turn the cream out of the mould on
to a hot dish, pour some perigueux sauce round, and
serve.
Curried Tendons of Veal. — Cut the tendons into equal-
sized pieces and braise them. When cooked, drain the
tendons and press them between two plates till nearly
cold. Strain the cooking-liquor into another saucepan.
Mix 2 teaspoonfuls of curry powder with 2 table-spoonfuls
of flour, mixing them to a paste with a little water, then
pour it into the strained liquor, and stir over the fire
till boiling. Trim the tendons neatly, put them in the
curry, and boil gently for lifteen minutes. Place some
slices of fried bacon on a hot dish, put the tendons on
them, pour the curry over, and serve with a dish of plain
boiled rice.
Curried Veal. — (1) Peel and chop two moderate-sized
onions, put them in a stewpan with 4oz. of butter, and
toss them about over the fire until nicely browned ; then
stir in 2 table-spoonfuls of curry powder and a small
quantity of salt, and move to the side of the fire. Cut
21b. of lean Veal into small pieces, put them in the curry
with 1 pint of milk, and boil gently until all the moisture
is absorbed. Wash ^lb. of rice, throw it into a saucepan
of fast-boiling water, and boil until tender, adding more
hot water if the quantity becomes absorbed. When the
rice is cooked and dry, put in a good-sized lump of butter,
and leave it at the edge of the fire for fifteen minutes.
When cooked, turn the curry on to a hot dish, garnish it
with sippets of toast, and serve with the rice on a
separate dish.
(2) Cut some Veal into small pieces, put them in a stew-
pan, cover with equal quantities of broth and white wine,
and boil it up; then take the meat out, refresh, and trim it.
Cut two onions into small pieces, put them in a stewpan
with a piece of butter, and fry for a few minutes ; then
put in the pieces of meat and fry them till lightly
browned. Sift 2 table-spoonfuls each of flour and curry
powder over the meat, season with salt and pepper, and
stir it over the fire for a few minutes. Pour in just
enough of the cooking liquor to cover the meat, and stir
it till boiling ; after it has boiled for ten minutes, move the
stewpan to the side of the fire, put in 6oz. of raw ham
cut into small pieces, one carrot, two small onions, some
mushroom trimmings, and a bunch of sweet herbs and
parsley. Let the meat stew gently till cooked, then drain
and keep it hot. Boil the cooking-liquor quickly till some-
what reduced, move it to the side of the fire, thicken with
the yolks of some eggs that have been beaten with a little
cream, pour it over the meat, and serve with a separate
dish of plain boiled rice.
(3) Peel one large Spanish onion and one large sour
apple, cut them into slices, put them in a stewpan with a
lump of butter, and toss about over the fire until lightly
browned. Mix 1 table spoonful each of flour and curry
powder smoothly with 1 pint of water, and pour it over
the onions ; season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut
about 21b. of lean Veal into nice pieces, put them into
the stewpan with the above ingredients, stir over the fire
until the liquor boils, then move to the side and stew
gently until the Veal is tender (it will take from an hour
to an-hour-and-a-half). When cooked, squeeze the juice of
a small lemon in the curry, turn it on to a hot dish, and
garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast.
Serve with a separate dish of plain boiled rice.
V eal — continued.
Curried Veal a l’lndienne. — Cut into pieces 21b. of any
kind of lean raw Veal. Put the pieces into a saucepan,
cover with warm water, season with 2 pinches of salt
and 1 pinch of pepper, and add a bouquet garni and six
small onions. Cook for twenty-five minutes. Prepare 1 gill
of white roux in a saucepan, moisten it with the liquor
from the Veal, stir it well, and add 1 table-spoonful of
moistened curry powder and three raw yolks of egg,
Fig. 938. Curried Veal -a l’Indienne.
beating them up as they are put in. Place the Veal on
a hot dish, immediately strain the roux over it, as it must
not cook again, garnish with a border of hot plain boiled
rice (see Fig. 938), and serve.
Curried Veal Cutlets. — The Veal cutlets should be pre-
pared as for collops by cutting them into shape, dipping
them into the yolk of eggs, and covering with fine bread-
crumbs mixed up with 2 table-spoonfuls of curry powder and
1 table-spoonful of salt. Fry them in butter, and serve with
curry sauce made as follows : Take equal parts of curry
powder, flour, and butter, work them into a paste, turn it
into the pan from which the cutlets have been removed,
moisten with 1 breakfast-cupful of water, add a seasoning
of cayenne and salt, and let it thicken before using.
Cushion of Veal d la Bordelaise. — Braise a cushion of
Veal, and when tender drain it and cut it into moderately
thick slices ; put them on a dish, and cover them over.
Wash and drain twenty mushrooms, and slice them. Put
a chopped onion into a deep frying-pan with a lump of
butter, and fry for a few minutes without browning ; then
put in the mushrooms, season with pepper and salt, and
fry them quickly till the moisture has evaporated some-
what. Dredge a little flour over the mushrooms, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and pour in 1 teacupful
of gravy. Stir the sauce, and boil it quickly for ten
minutes. Put a layer of the ragout on a dish and then
a layer of the meat, another layer of the ragout, and so
on till all is used, finishing with a layer of ragout. Cover
the above mixture with breadcrumbs, place a few little
bits of butter on the top, and put it in a quick oven for
twenty minutes, basting occasionally with the butter.
When cooked, drain the butter off the dish, pour a small
quantity of rich gravy round it, and serve.
Cushion of Veal a la Duchesse. — Trim a large white
cushion of Veal and stud it with square fillets of raw
truffles ; dust a little salt over, cover the studded part of
the meat with thin slices of bacon, and truss it. Place
some trimmings of bacon in a stewpan, put in the meat,
Fig. 939. Cushion op Veal a la Duchesse.
pour some clarified butter over it, and braise for two
hours in a moderate oven, basting it occasionally with the
drippings in the pan. Cut some cooked potatoes in an
oblong shape, like large dominoes, and glaze them.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, > tic., referred to, see under their special heads.
VOL. II.
o
Y
690
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
When cooked, remove the string and bacon from the
meat, put it on a hot dish, garnish with the potatoes (see
Fig. 939), and serve with a sauceboatful of brown sauce that
has been reduced with white wine and essence of truffles.
Cushion of Veal au Gratin. — Braise a cushion of Veal,
and when tender take it out of the stewpan and leave
till cold. Trim the cushion to a round shape, make a
circular incision on the top, and empty it out with a
knife, leaving a bottom to it about “2in. in thickness.
Cut the meat from the middle of the cushion into small
squares, and put them into a saucepan with a third of its
quantity of cooked mushrooms and truffles, also cut into
small pieces. Pour in with the chopped meat some thick
brown sauce, season with a little pepper and salt, and
stir it over the fire for a few minutes. Pour the above
mixture into the hollow of the Veal, coat it over the top
with thick sauce, sprinkle with some grated breadcrumb,
and pour over them some hot butter. Put the meat in
the oven and- baste it frequently till nicely browned.
Pour a little rich gravy round the meat, garnish with
potato croquettes, and serve with a sauceboatful of half-
glaze.
Cushion of Veal a la Polonaise. — Lard a cushion of Veal
with bacon, braise it, and when tender leave it till nearly
cold in the cooking-stock. Cut the Veal transversely into
slices, then pile it on a dish in its original shape, alternating
each slice with some minced mushrooms that have been
mixed with a little thick sauce, and finishing with a layer
of the minced mushrooms. Sprinkle some grated bread-
crumb over, place a few bits of butter on the top, and put
the cushion in the oven ; baste it frequently. In about
twenty minutes’ time slip the Veal carefully on to a hot
dish, surround it with brown sauce that has been reduced
with the cooking-liquor of the cushion, and serve.
Cushion of Veal a la Soubise. — (1) Bone a cushion of Veal,
trim off the skin surrounding the udder, and lard the meat
with thin strips of bacon. Place a small quantity of lard
in a stewpan, together with some trimmings of raw ham
and sliced vegetables, put in the cushion, dust a little salt
over, and moisten to height with white wine and clear
stock in equal quantities ; put in a bunch of parsley and
sweet herbs, the pulp of a lemon without peel or pips, three or
four cloves, and six peppercorns. Lay a sheet of buttered
paper over the meat, stand the stewpan over the fire till
the liquor commences to boil, then move it a little to the
side ; put some live embers on the lid, and cook the cushion
for two or three hours, according to the size, basting it fre-
quently. Prepare a rich onion puree, and put it in the
middle of a hot dish. When cooked, drain the meat, pile
it on the puree, mix a little broth with the cooking-
liquor, and boil quickly till reduced to half-glaze. Skim
the fat off the sauce, strain it through a fine hair sieve
over the meat, and serve.
(2) Lard a cushion of Veal with bacon, and let it
macerate for ten hours in Madeira with a few trimmings of
truffles, sweet herbs, cloves, anti peppercorns. Put some
slices of onions and carrot, and some trimmings of bacon
and pork in a stewpan, put in the meat, pour the marinad-
ing liquor over it, cover with a sheet of buttered paper,
and stand it over the fire till on the point of boiling.
Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, put some live
embers on the lid, and braise the meat for three or four hours,
according to size. When cooked, drain the cushion, put it
on a hot dish, skim the fat off the cooking-liquor, mix a little
gravy with it, then boil it up. Pass the sauce through
a fine hair sieve over the meat, and serve it with a puree
of chestnuts in a separate dish. Celery may be served
with the Veal in place of chestnuts, if preferred.
Fillets of Veal d la Brisse. — Cut a fillet of Veal into
slices 5in. long and about lin. in thickness, beat them flat,
and spread a layer of Veal forcemeat on them. Roll the
fillets up, and tie them round with twine. Line a sauce-
pan with some thin slices of bacon, put in the fillets, dust
in a small quantity of pepper and salt, ami pour in % pint of
white wine and stock mixed in equal quantities ; put the lid
on the saucepan, and cook the contents over a slow fire.
When the fillets are cooked, pile them like a pyramid on
For details respecting Culinary Process's , Utensils,
Veal — continued.
a hot dish. Strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve,
skim off all the fat, and boil up again. Pour the sauce
over the fillets, and serve.
Fillets of Veal en Croustade. — Make a batter of polenta,
stir it over the fire till thick, then pour it into a buttered
tin and leave till cold. Turn the polenta on to a baking-
sheet that has been covered with a round sheet of paper,
carve it fancifully on the outside, brush it over with a
paste-brush dipped in warmed butter, and put it in the
oven till set. Glaze the croustade, scoop it out a little at
the top, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Trim three
minim fillets of Veal, put them in a baking-dish with
some thin slices of bacon under and over them, pour a little
warmed butter over, and roast them in a moderate oven,
basting frequently with the drippings in the pan. The
fillets must not be overdone. Cut the fillets into equal-
sized oblong slices, put them in a stewpan, cover with
veloute sauce that has been reduced with essence of mush-
rooms, and keep them hot. Cut some slices off an ox-
tongue that has been boiled at the same time, trim them
to the same size as the pieces of Veal, put them in
another stewpan, and glaze with a paste-brush dipped in
melted glaze. Prepare some mushrooms as for garnish,
put them in the centre of the croustade, arrange a circle
of slices of Veal round them, alternating each slice with
one of tongue. Place ten or twelve Veal forcemeat
quenelles that have been poached in water on the top,
and put a few truffles in the centre at the top. Brush
the quenelles over with a paste brush dipped in veloutd
sauce, then serve the croustade.
Fillet of Veal with Brain Fritters. — Cut off a fillet
from a leg of Veal, and nib it well over with the juice
of a large mushroom, extracted by breaking it up and
sprinkling salt over. A little grated orange-rind and
cayenne, if added, are an improvement. Dip the fillet in
flour, brush over with egg, jilunge it into boiling fat, and
fry it ; or wrap it in oiled paper and grill it over a clear
fire. Cut a calf’s brain into equal-sized pieces, blanch
them, and steiv in stock for about a-quarter-of-an-hour.
Prepare a tbickish batter with the yolk of an egg, 2oz.
of Hour, 1 table-spoonful of olive oil, and warm water ;
when ready, beat in the yolk of an egg whipped to a
froth. Drain the pieces of brain, dip them into the batter,
plunge into boiling fat, fry, and drain them. Put the
fillet on a dish, arrange the brain fritters and fried slices
of potato round, also sprigs of fried parsley round the rim
of the dish, and serve with thick brown sauce in a
sauceboat.
Fillet of Veal Larded with Anchovies (aux Anchois). —
Lard a thick slice cutoff a fillet of Veal with fillets of
anchovies, and dust over with salt and pepper. Put the
fillet in a dish, cover with vinegar, and let it macerate
for seven or eight hours. Drain the Veal, Hour it well on
both sides, put it in a frying-pan with plenty of olive oil,
and cook over a slow fire, turning it often. When cooked,
put the Veal on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon
into the frying-pan with the oil, stir it over the fire for
two or three minutes, then pour it over the fillet, and
serve.
Fricandeau of Veal.— (1) Fricandeau of Veal is properly
made from that round muscle which is found on the
inner side of the leg of Veal, and is called the noix or
cushion. To obtain it the rest of the leg must be used
for dishes which do not require special cuts ; a thick
cutlet is sometimes used as a fricandeau. Use a medium -
sized larding-needle and strips of fat salt pork cut less
than a-quarter of-an-inch square and 2in. long ; put the
strips of pork or lardoons one by one into the split end
of the needle, and take a succession of stitches about ^in.
long and deep in the upper surface of the Veal in a line
down the centre ; then make other lines of lardoons on
both sides of the centre line, letting the ends of the
lardoons come between each other, until the upper sur-
face of the Veal is thickly larded. After the Veal is larded
it may be braised or baked. The fricandeau can be baked
on a bed of vegetables, which may subsequently be rubbed
through a sieve with a masher and form the basis of a
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads .
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
691
Veal — continued.
brown gravy ; or it may be garnished after cooking with
green peas or spinach, or served with a brown mushroom sauce.
A larded fricandeau is a choice dish even when it is made
from a thick cutlet if garnished with button mushrooms
and truffles. When it is not desirable to use lardoons of
pork or bacon, strips of cold boiled tongue may replace
them, or of beef-fat, if it can be found sufficiently
tough to permit it to be pulled through the rather dense
fibre of uncooked meat. In larding Veal, the udder-fat
(that portion which is usually attached to the end of a Veal
cutlet cut from the leg) makes passable lardoons. This fat is
rather more substantial than that which lies about the
kidneys, and which would crumble if drawn into uncooked
meat. If the thin fat membrane that is sometimes spread
over spring lamb is cut into small squares, and then rolled
in the shape of lardoons, it may be used instead of pork.
(2) Skin a nice-shaped fillet of Veal, beat it, and lard
it alternately with fillets of ham and bacon. Line a
stewpan with slices of bacon, carrot, and onion, and add
two calf’s feet cut up, and a few whole peppers. Put in
the Veal, pour in lqt. of good broth and teacupful of
vinegar, dust in salt, lay a few slices of lemon on the top,
put the lid on the pan, and cook the Veal slowly for
three hours by the side of the fire, basting it occasionally
with the liquor. Care must be taken not to let the meat
boil, as that will harden it. When cooked, drain the
meat and leave it until cold. Colour the cooking-liquor
with burnt sugar, and boil it until reduced to I pint.
Strain the gravy through a fine hair sieve, leave it until
a little cooled, then skim off all the fat and baste the
Veal with it; after coating the Veal with the gravy,
which should turn to a jelly as it gets cold, leave the
remainder until cold, then cut it into small pieces. Put
the Veal on a cold dish, garnish with the jelly, and
serve.
(3) Procure a thick cutlet from a leg of Veal, take out
the bone, trim the cutlet neatly, and lard it with thin
strips of smoked bacon. Make a sufficient quantity of
stuffing to fill up the hollow left by the bone, with grated
ham, champignons, and breadcrumbs; season with a small
quantity of sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, salt, and pepper,
and bind it with beaten egg. Stuff the cutlet, levelling
the stuffing off neatly with the flat blade of a knife. Lay
it in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, cover with boil
ing white stock, and keep it simmering slowly at the side of
the fire till tender. The Veal will take about an-hour-
and-a half to cook. Meanwhile stew some celery or sea-
kale, and make 1 pint of white veloutd sauce. When
cooked, drain the cutlet, and brown it under a salamander.
Turn the stewed vegetables on to a hot dish, lay the
cutlet on it, pour its cooking-liquor over, first removing
the bunch of herbs, pour the veloute sauce round the
dish, and serve while very hot.
(4) Lard one side of a large chump chop with thick
strips of bacon, and the other side with finer ones. Put
the chop in a saucepan with two or three carrots and
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, two cloves, some trim
mings of bacon, a little salt and pepper, and a little
more than J pint of stock. Stew the chop gently over
a slow fire, basting it occasionally with its cooking- liquor.
V hen cooked, take the Veal out, pass the liquor through
a fine hair sieve, and boil quickly till reduced to a
creamy sauce; all the fat must be well skimmed off. Put
the Veal in the sauce with a little glaze and a small
quantity of stock, boil it up, then turn it on to a hot
dish. Serve the fricandeau with a puree of either spinach
or sorrel.
(5) Cut a piece of Veal from the fat side of the leg,
cut it 9in. long, 44in. wide, and 4|in. thick. Beat it well
with the rolling-pin, skin it, and trim off any rough or
jagged edges. Lard it well, cover with fat bacon, and
wrap it then in white paper. Lay it in a stewpan with
some bits of lean mutton or Veal, a carrot scraped, washed,
and cut in slices, Jib. of lean ham or gammon, four bay-
leaves, three blades of mace, three medium-sized onions,
peeled and sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 1 pint of
good Veal or mutton stock. Fit the lid of the stewpan
on tightly, and let the contents stew slowly for three
V eal — continued.
hours. Take up the Veal, then strain the gravy, skim the
fat off, and boil it quickly to a glaze. Glaze the frican-
deau, and serve it hot with the remainder of the glaze in the
same dish and sorrel sauce in a sauce-tureen.
(6) Lard some slices of Veal that have been cut off the
thick part of the fillet with fat bacon, dust them over
with flour, put them in a Dutch oven, and brown in front
of a clear fire. When nicely browned put the slices of Veal
in a saucepan with lqt. of gravy, and boil them gently
for half-an-hour. Put in a slice of lemon, some lemon
pickle, 1 table-spoonful of anchovy essence, a little brown-
ing and cayenne pepper, and continue boiling till the Veal
is tender. Prepare some Veal quenelle forcemeat, mould
it into little balls, and poach them. When cooked, put
the slices of Veal on a hot dish and keep them hot.
Skim the fat off the cooking-liquor of the Veal, strain it
through a fine hair sieve, and boil quickly till reduced to
a creamy consistency. Pour the sauce over the Veal,
garnish it with the forcemeat balls, and serve.
Fricandeau of Veal a la Farisienne. — Take 51b. or 61b.
of the cushion of Veal, and divide it into two uniform-
shaped pieces. Pare away all sinewy and ragged pieces,
and beat with a cutlet-bat to flatten the meat and bruise
the fibres. Lard both pieces freely and then put them,
larded sides uppermost, into a flat stewpan, the bottom of
which has been strewn with thinly-sliced vegetables.
Lightly sprinkle with salt, and then pour in sufficient
broth to reach the larding, and into that again pour 2
wineglassfuls of Madeira. Lay a piece of buttered paper
over the fricandeau, and set the pan containing it on the
fire until it boils quickly. In a quarter-of-an-hour or twenty
minutes move the pan a little to the side, and, if the lid
of the stewpan is flat, pile some hot ashes on it. Remove
these to lift the lid occasionally to baste the fricandeau
with the liquor in the stewpan. When this is done the
lid may be again piled with ashes, and so on until the
Veal is quite cooked through and tender. Then take out
the meat, glaze it nicely, and leave it in a warm place
to drain. Put 4 pint of stock, Veal broth, or gravy into
the stewpan, boil it up, strain, skim off the fat, and then
reduce it again by boiling until it forms half-glaze. Have
ready a Veal-and-liam pain, nicely ornamented with glaze,
and set this upon a dish. On the pain fasten a bread
crouton, against which the two pieces of Veal are to be laid,
the larded surfaces being uppermost. Have ready two pieces
of sweetbread cut into shapes of shields and neatly studded
with truffles. Set these against the bread crouton, between
the pieces of Veal, and garnish with cooked truffles and
small mushrooms. Mount the centre with an attelette of
two truffles and a cocks’ comb (see Fig. 940). Instead of
a Veal and -ham cheese, a pain-vert may be used, or a
simple dish block.
Fricandeau of Veal with Border of Sorrel. ^Trim a piece
from the fillet or cushion of Veal, and lard it closely on
one side with thin strips of bacon ; place two or three slices
of bacon in a stewpan, with a few sliced carrots and onions
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, c he., referred to, see under their special heads.
2 T 2
692
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V eal — continued.
and a bunch of sweet herbs, put in the Veal, dust it
over with salt and pepper, and moisten to height with
clear stock. When boiling, move it to the side of the
lire, and let it simmer gently for a couple of hours, basting
the top occasionally with its cooking- liquor. When the
Veal is cooked, strain off its cooking-liquor into a basin,
and skim off all the fat. Put a small lump of butter in a
stewpan with about J table spoonful of flour, stir them over
the fire till well mixed, then work in the above mixture,
and boil the whole until thickly reduced, stirring at the
same time. Prepare a border of sorrel for the meat as
follows : Wash plenty of sorrel in several waters, boil it
in salted water until quite tender, then turn it on to a
fine hair sieve. When the sorrel is well drained, pass it
through a sieve. Put loz. of butter in a stewpan over the
fire, and when melted mix in Joz. of flour and then the
sorrel ; toss it about over the fire for a few minutes, then
move it to the side. Beat the yolk of an egg up with 2
table-spoonfuls of water, stir it in with the sorrel, and
season to taste with salt and pepper. Press the sorrel in
a border -mould for a few minutes, and stand it in a bain-
marie. Glaze the larded part of the Veal under a sala
mander, and put it on a hot dish ; pour the sauce under
it, turn the border of sorrel out of the mould on to the
dish round the Veal, and serve while hot.
Fricandeau of Veal with Puree of Sorrel. — Cut a slice
of about 311). from a leg of Veal, remove the sinews, and lard
the surface with fat bacon or pork, using a medium-sized
larding-needle. Place it in a sautti-pan in which there
are already pieces of pork skin, one sliced onion, one sliced
carrot, and a bouquet garni. Season with 1 table-spoon-
ful of salt, cover with buttered paper, and let it colour
slightly for five minutes on the stove. Then moisten with
J pint of white broth, and cook for an hour, basting
occasionally. Serve with J pint of puree of sorrel on the
dish, placing the Veal on top.
Fricandeau of Veal with Spinach. — (1) Prepare the same
as for Fricandeau of Veal with Puree of Sorrel,
using hot spinach instead of the sorrel.
(2) Procure a nice fillet of Veal, which trim with a
sharp knife, and lard closely on one side with thin strips
of bacon. Line a stewpan with slices of bacon, then put
in a layer of sliced onions and carrots and a bunch of
sweet herbs; put in the Veal, the larded side upwards,
season with salt, pepper, and a moderate quantity of spices,
and moisten to height with clear stock. When boiling,
move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let the
contents simmer gently until the meat is tender, basting
the top of the meat occasionally with its cooking-liquor.
When cooked, strain the liquor into a basin and skim off
as much of the fat as possible. Put Joz. of butter into a
stewpan with J table-spoonful of flour, and stir them over
the fire until smoothly mixed ; then stir in the gravy,
and let it boil until reduced to almost a glaze. Boil
some well-washed spinach in a small quantity of water,
and when tender drain it thoroughly ; next press it
through a fine hair sieve. Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan
with h table-spoonful of flour, mix them over the fire,
then put in the spinach ; moisten with 2 or 3 table-spoon
fuls of milk, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Stir it until thoroughly hot, brown the larded part of the
meat under a salamander, place it on a hot dish, pour the
gravy over it, pile the spinach up round it, and serve.
Fig. 941. Fried Tendons of Veal.
Fried Tendons of Veal. — Cut the tendons into nice-sized
pieces, trimming them carefully ; put them in a basin with
vinegar and water in equal quantities, and let them soak
Veal — continued.
for an hour or two. Drain the tendons, dust them over
with flour, pepper, and salt, and fry in butter or lard.
When nicely browned, drain the tendons, put them on an
ornamental dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley (see Fig.
942), and serve.
Fried Veal Chops. — Remove all the bones and sinews from
the chops, mince the meat very finely, and mix with it
two-thirds of its quantity of streaky bacon also finely
chopped ; season the mixture to taste with pepper, salt,
and spices. Cut some pieces of caul in the shape of
chops, spread the minced mixture over them, and bury a
bone in every one so that the end only will be seen.
Strew grated breadcrumb over the chops with a few
sweet herbs. Melt a large lump of lard or clarified fat in
a flat stewpan, put in the chops, and fry them. When
cooked and nicely browned, drain, and put them on a hot
dish ; garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Fried Veal Cutlets. — (1) Trim the cutlets and dust them over
with salt and pepper. Chop the trimmings of the cutlets
with an equal quantity of fat bacon, mix some bread-
crumbs, chopped shallots, and sweet herbs with them,
season with salt and pepper, and bind them together with
beaten egg. Cover the cutlets with the above mixture,
brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinkle thickly
with breadcrumbs. But a lump of butter or lard in a
frying pan, melt it, then put in the cutlets, and fry them
on both sides till of a rich golden colour. When cooked,
put the cutlets on a hot dish, garnish with slices of
lemon, pour a little rich brown gravy over them, and
serve with a sauceboatful of the sauce.
(2) Procure the required quantity of Veal cutlets, and
soak them in salted water for a short time. When ready
to cook, take them out, wipe dry, and sprinkle with flour,
salt, and pepper ; melt some lard in a frying-pan, put the
cutlets in, and fry them ; when lightly browned, strain off
the lard and pour in a little water, 1 table-spoonful of
butter, and a few pieces of celery. Turn the cutlets
frequently, and when they are done dish them with the
gravy over, and serve.
(3) Trim the cutlets, and beat them lightly on both
sides ; dust them over with salt and pepper, dip them in
beaten egg, then roll them till well covered in breadcrumbs.
Put a lump of butter into a flat stewpan, melt it, then
put in the cutlets, and fry them on both sides. Put some
white asparagus that has been boiled in salted water and
dried on a cloth on a hot dish, and when cooked drain the
cutlets and lean them against the asparagus. Put Jib. of
butter in the pan that the cutlets were cooked in, with 1
teacupful of breadcrumbs, and fry them. Pour the bread-
crumbs and butter over the cutlets, and serve.
Fried Veal Cutlets and Green Peas.— Divide a small
neck of Veal into cutlets, trim them nicely, and season
with salt and pepper. Cut as many slices of lean bacon
as there are cutlets, and trim them as nearly as possible
to the same shape. Put 1 pint of green peas (bottled
will do) in a saucepan of water, with a bunch of mint
and a lump of salt, and boil them quickly. When the
peas are cooked, remove the mint, strain off the water,
put a lump of butter in with them, and toss them about
over the fire. Fry the pieces of bacon lightly, put a lump
of butter in a flat stewpan, and when it boils put in the
cutlets, and fry them until equally browned on both sides.
Drain the cutlets, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish,
alternating each one with a slice of bacon, and strew over
some finely-minced thyme and parsley mixed in equal
quantities. Pile the peas in the centre, and serve.
Fried Veal Cutlets with Tomatoes. — Cut about 2lb. of
Veal cutlets from the leg into small slices, season them with
pepper and salt, roll them in cracker-dust, then dip them
in beaten eggs, and again in cracker-dust. Have ready
on the fire a frying-pan containing smoking fat Jin. deep ;
put the Veal into the hot fat, and fry brown on both
sides. While the Veal is frying, wipe half-a-dozen large
firm tomatoes with a damp cloth, slice them about Jin.
thick, roll them in flour, season with pepper and salt, and
fry brown in the pan with the Veal. Serve the Veal on
a dish, with the tomatoes laid neatly in a circle round.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, <L-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL COOKERY.
693
Veal — continued.
Tlie Veal cutlets may be dipped in breadcrumbs and fried,
and served with the tomatoes.
Galantine of Veal. — (1) Take a breast of Veal, bone it,
beat it as flat as possible, and sprinkle with salt,
pepper, and pounded spice. Then lay the inside upwards,
brush it over with beaten egg, sprinkle with finely-chop-
ped sweet herbs, and lay over it in alternate layers ham
fat, the chopped meat of dressed cow-heel or calf’s feet,
egg balls, pickled gherkins, and French beans ; sprinkle
over all dissolved isinglass. Roll the Veal up tight and
sew it with packthread. Wrap it in a cloth, sew it up,
tie it tight at the ends, and boil in stock for three-hours-
and-a-half. When the meat is done, hang it up to drain,
then tie up tight at both ends, and lay between two dishes or
boards, or on a dish with a board over (see Fig. 942), putting
heavy weights on top till next day, when it may be untied
and put on a dish. Serve cold, garnished with fresh
parsley.
(2) Bone a breast of Veal, beat it flat, and cover with
slices of lean ham. Mix together lib. of pork sausage-
meat, the thinly-pared rind of a lemon chopped very
fine, chopped herbs and parsley, a very little cayenne, a
small quantity of mace, the strained juice of a lemon,
and the whites of three hard-boiled eggs chopped very
small, and spread this forcemeat over the slices of ham.
Lay the three hard-boiled yolks along the centre, and roll
the Veal up tight ; bind it with tape, sew it in a cloth,
stew it gently for four hours, then place it between two
dishes or flat boards with heavy weights on top, and
leave till cold. Take it from between the boards or dishes,
remove the cloth and the tapes, put it on a dish garnished
with fresh parsley, and serve.
(3) Bone a breast of Veal and beat it flat; dust it over
with pounded spice, salt, pepper, and a small quantity
of cayenne pepper ; brush it over with a paste-brush
dipped in beaten egg, and strew finely-chopped sweet
herbs over it. Next put on it alternate rows of gherkins,
ham-fat, green and yellow egg balls, and calf’s feet or
cow heels ready dressed. Strew some isinglass over these
ingredients, roll the meat up tightly, and sew with pack-
thread ; wrap a cloth tightly round it and fasten at each
end. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient stock to
cover, and boil it gently for three-hours-and-a-half. At
the end of that time take the galantine out of the stock
and hang it up until well drained. Tighten the cloth if
necessary at each end, and place the galantine between two
dishes with a heavy weight on it, and leave until the
next day. When serving the galantine, cut it into slices,
arrange on a dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin, and garnish with parsley.
(4) Bone a shoulder of Veal (this part is considered best
for the purpose because it is juicier), trim off some of the
inside meat to make it thinner, spread it out on the
table, and dust over with salt, pepper, and mixed spices.
Put the bones in a saucepan with two calf’s feet that
have been partly boned and blanched, pour in some water,
and boil them over a moderate' fire ; or a ready-made jelly
may be added. Trim away the sinews of the meat that
was cut off the shoulder, and cut the meat into small
pieces. When the feet are tender, drain them, remove the
remainder of the bones, chop the meat finely, and mix it
with the chopped Veal. Season the mixture with salt
and spices, and a third of its quantity of chopped cooked
ham and fat bacon. Spread the forcemeat over the
shoulder, roll it to an oblong shape, and sew
with packthread. Wrap the galantine in a cloth, put
it in a braising-pan, pour in the liquor m which the
V eal — continued.
calf’s feet were cooked and some toppings of broth, and
put the pan over the fire. When the liquor boils, move
the pan to the side, and keep it boiling slowly for two-
hours-and-a-half. When cooked, take the galantine out of
the napkin, and wrap it up again tighter in the same
cloth, tying it with string. Put the galantine between two
dishes with a weight on the top, and leave it till cold.
When ready, take the napkin off the galantine, brush it
over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze, garnish
with shapes of aspic jelly, and serve.
(5) Bone the breast, spread it on a board, and beat
flat ; cut off a little of the meat at each end so that the
skin will project. Finely chop all the trimmings of meat,
and mix with them an equal quantity of chopped fat
bacon, some small squares of truffles, tongue, and pistachio-
nuts ; season the mixture with salt and pepper, and spread
it over the Veal. Roll the breast carefully over the stuff-
ing, fasten it at the end, wrap it in a cloth, and bind
round with broad tape to keep it in shape. Put the
galantine in a braising-pan with some thin stock, and
braise it for six hours. When cooked, take the galantine
out, drain it, and leave it till cold. Cut the tape and
remove the cloth from the galantine, glaze it, put it on
a folded napkin or dish-paper on a dish, and serve.
(6) Bone a breast of Veal, and season it well with salt
and pepper. Spread a layer of ham forcemeat on the
Veal, then some slices of boiled ham; continue in this
way till 21b. of ham and 2|lb. of forcemeat have been
used, then roll the Veal up and bind it round with twine.
Wrap the Veal in a strong piece of cloth, and sew it on.
Put 4lb. of the knuckle of Veal in a large saucepan with
two calf’s feet, the bones of the breast, one onion, a small
quantity of carrot and turnip, two or three small pieces
of celery, 1 table-spoonful each of peppercorns and salt,
three cloves, and 3qts. of water. When boiling, put in
the rolled breast of Veal, move the saucepan to the side
of the fire, and keep the liquor simmering for three hours.
When cooked, take the breast of Veal out of the sauce-
pan, remove the cloth, and wrap it up in another piece
that has been dipped in cold water. Press the Veal under
a weight till the following morning. Take the weight
and cloth ott’ the Veal, put it on a dish, and brush it
over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze. Garnish
with croutons of aspic jelly, and serve.
Glazed Cushion of Veal. — Trim a cushion of Veal, letting
the udder remain, and stud the sides and top with alternate
fillets of raw ham and fat bacon. Dust pepper and salt
over the meat, put it into a square stewpan with some
chopped bacon, and fry over a quick fire, turning it several
times. When nicely browned all over, put in a few' small
onions and one sliced carrot ; pour in 1 pint of broth, and
put in a few fresh pieces of bacon rind. Put the lid on the
stev'pan, place it over a very slow fire, and cook the meat,
reducing the moisture. When cooked, drain the meat, place
it on a bed of chicory that has been finished with some of
the gravy of the Veal and spread on a hot dish, and
serve with a sauceboatful of the cooking stock.
Grenadins of Veal. — (1) Cut some cold fillet of Veal into
thick slices, and chop each slice into rounds with a tin
cutter about Him in diameter. Lard the rounds with
strips of fat bacon ; put into a stewpan 2 breakfast-cup-
fuls of clear stock, and boil it until reduced to half its
former quantity ; put in the grenadins, with a piece of
loaf sugar, salt to taste, a small quantity of cayenne pepper,
and sufficient browning to give the sauce a rich colour,
and stew gently till the bacon is cooked ; then arrange the
grenadins in a circle on a hot dish (see Fig. 943). Mix 1
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, c be., referred to, see under their special heads.
694
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
wineglassful of sherry and the strained juice of half a
lemon with the sauce, boil it up again, then pour it in
the centre of the dish, and serve.
(2) Take some nice Veal cutlets, trim them into shape,
cut off all skin and fat, and then lard them with fat
bacon or ham. Put some hot butter or dripping in a
baking-pan, lay the cutlets in a circle towards the edge of
the pan, and put in the centre some chopped carrot and
turnip, a small onion sliced, and a small sprig of thyme,
marjoram, and parsley, tied in a bay-leaf ; add a seasoning
of pepper and salt, pour in some stock, but not sufficient
to cover the cutlets, lay a piece of buttered paper over the
pan to prevent the meat from browning, and bake for
three -quarters -of -an -hour. Lay the cutlets round some cut
vegetables on a hot dish, pour over them some stock
boiled to a glaze, and serve hot.
(3) Cut five or six chops lin. thick off' a loin of Veal or
the best end of the neck. Trim off' all bone and fat from
the centre piece of lean. Put the bones and trimmings
over the lire with 1 carrot scraped and washed, 1 turnip
peeled and washed, 1 onion peeled, and a mushroom nicely
trimmed and peeled ; put into the saucepan also two or three
sprigs of parsley, a sprig each of thyme and marjoram, a bay-
leaf, a couple of cloves, a grain or two of allspice, l saltspoon-
ful of flour of mustard, nearly \ saltspoonful of white pepper, 1
teaspoonful of sugar, loz. of lean ham nicely trimmed, and
lqt. of water, and let it boil quickly for three hours,
skimming the scum off as it rises. Strain it then, and
let it get cold. Lard one side of the pieces of Veal thickly
with fat bacon. Rub the bottom of a stewpan with garlic,
put into it I lb. of butter, set it over the fire, and when
quite hot lay the Veal in, the larded side upwards, and
let it brown a little. Skim the fat from the cold gravy,
and pour over gravy to height without covering the
larding ; let it simmer gently for two hours, skimming
and basting eveiy ten minutes. Take the Veal out, skim
the fat from the gravy, put in 1 pint of young fresh-
shelled peas and 1 teaspoonful of powdered white sugar,
let them boil quickly (without putting the lid on the
stewpan) for ten minutes, put the Veal in again, and
simmer, still keejdng the lid off the stewpan, till the peas
are tender. Take out the Veal, pour out the peas and
gravy on a hot dish, lay the grenadins of Veal, larding
upwards, in the centre, and serve hot.
(4) Cut eight or nine collops Jin. thick from a cushion
of Veal, and trim them to an oblong shape about the
size of a mutton cutlet. Wet the collops, beat them
lightly with the back of a knife, and lard in the centre
with fillets of bacon. Melt a little lard in a flat stewpan,
then cover the bottom with sliced onions, on which arrange
the collops, side by side. Cover the collops with broth,
stand the stewpan on the fire, and boil quickly till the
moisture has reduced one-third. Move the stewpan to the
side of the fire, sprinkle some salt over the Veal, and
cover with a sheet of buttered paper. Put the lid on the
stewpan with some hot ashes on it, and cook the Veal for
three-quarters-of-an-hour, basting it occasionally with its
cooking-liquor. Cut some carrots and turnips into small
balls with a vegetable-cutter, scoop some cucumbers out
with a vegetable-spoon, and cut some beans and French
beans into small squares. Blanch and cook all the
vegetables separately. Put the vegetables together in a
stewpan with a little butter, and toss them over a
quick fire for a few minutes, seasoning with pepper,
salt, grated nutmeg, and 1 pinch of sugar. Mix a little
thick bechamel sauce with them. When cooked, arrange
the grenadins in a circle on a hot dish, pile the vegetables
in the centre, and serve.
Grenadins of Veal a l’Africaine. — Prepare as for
Grenadins of Veal with Puree of Green Peas,
serving very hot with three small stuffed egg-plant fruit,
and eighteen medium-sized cooked gumbos for garnish in
place of the peas.
Grenadins of Veal a la Chipolata. — The same as for
Grenadins of Veal with Puree of Green Peas,
only adding 1 pint of hot chipolata garnishing instead of
the peas.
V eal — continued.
Grenadins of Veal a la Sevigne. — Prepared as for
Grenadins of Veal with Puree of Green Peas, only
decorating the dish with six honchoes Sevigne, made by
preparing six small bouclnies, and filling them with very
finely-chopped spinach, acidulated slightly with lemon-
juice. Lay the covers on, and serve very hot without any
other garnishing.
Grenadins of Veal with Puree of Green Peas.— Cut
into six pieces 2lb. of lean Veal taken from the leg,
remove the sinews, and lard the Veal on one side, using
a rather coarse needle for the purpose. Lay the pieces in
a saute -pan with one carrot, one onion, and some scraps of
pork, and let them brown together for six minutes. Season
with 1 table-spoonful of salt, and moisten with 1 gill of
white broth. Put the pan in the oven, covering it with
a piece of buttered paper ; after thirty minutes, or when
the contents are of a good colour, remove it, and serve
with | pint of hot puibe of peas, spread on a dish, the
grenadins on top, and the gravy, strained, poured over all.
Grenadins of Veal with Tomato Sauce. — Cut about eight
slices transversely off. a cushion of Veal; they should be
about 3Jin. long, 4in. wide, and a little more than Jin.
thick ; sprinkle a little water over them, and beat them
lightly with a chopper. Trim the pieces of meat to an
oblong shape, lard them all on the same side with fillets
of bacon, and season with salt and pepper. Finely chop
a carrot and onion, put them in a stewpan, then add the
pieces of Veal, moistening them with Veal broth off which
the fat has not been skimmed. Boil the broth till reduced to
glaze, then pour in a little more, and boil it till the meat
is cooked and nicely glazed. Drain the grenadins, and
arrange them in a circle on a hot dish. Strain the
cooking-liquor through a fine hair sieve, skim off all the
fat, pour it over the grenadins, and serve with a sauce-
boatful of tomato sauce.
Haricot of Veal. — (1) Take 41b. or 5lb. of the best end of a
neck of Veal, cut or chop the bones short, but do not
cut up the Veal; put it into a stewpan, barely cover with
brown gravy, and let it simmer. Stew in some good stock
in another saucepan six small cucumbers, peeled and sliced,
two cabbage lettuces well washed and cut in quarters,
and 1 pint of green peas; when these are cooked and the
Veal nearly done, put them into the stewpan with the
Veal, and let all simmer together for ten minutes. Lay
the Veal on a hot dish, arrange the eight pieces of lettuce
and a few forcemeat balls round it, pour the gravy and
the rest of the vegetables over, and serve hot.
(2) Chop off the ends of the bones of a piece of neck of
Veal, put the Veal in a saucepan with sufficient brown gravy
to cover, ami stew until nearly cooked. Stew separately
in broth 1 pint of green peas, four peeled and sliced
cucumbers, two small lettuces in quarters, and 1 breakfast-
cupful each of carrots and turnips cut into small cubes.
Add these to the Veal, cook for ten minutes longer,
place the Veal in the centre of a dish, pour the vegetables
and gravy round, and serve.
Hashed Veal. — (1) Remains of cold Veal can be used, and it
is better if rather underdone. Cut the meat into thin slices,
trimming off' all the skin and gristle; sliie a couple of
onions and shallots, put them in a stewpan with a lump
of butter, dredge them lightly with flour, and toss about
over the fire until beginning to brown. Pour in about
| pint of clear Veal broth, add a bunch of sweet herbs,
and boil gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Put the slices
of Veal in a clean stewpan, strain the gravy over them,
put in 1 table -spoonful of finely -chopped parsley, the grated
peel of half a small lemon, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg ; season with salt and pepper to taste. Let the hash
simmer for five minutes close to the fire. Turn the hash
on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast or small
croutons of bread that have been fried a delicate brown
in butter, and serve.
(2) Trim off the skin and fat from some cold roast Veal,
and mince the lean finely. Chop a shallot, put it in a
stewpan with plenty of butter, and fry it till lightly
coloured ; then put in the minced meat with a little
chopped parsley, and dredge over some flour, salt, pepper.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
695
Veal— continued.
ami a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Pour in some
stock, and stir the mince by the side of the lire till well
mixed. When hot, move the hash away from the fire,
and stir into it the beaten yolk of one egg and the juice
of a lemon. Turn the hash on to a hot dish, garnish
with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast, and serve.
(3) Cut some extremely thin slices from a leg of Veal ;
they should not be thicker than the blade of a knife.
Lay them in a deep dish, season with salt and pepper to
taste, pour over them very nearly 2 gills of white wine,
and let them soak in it for three hours. Then butter
the bottom of a stewpan, and lay the slices of Veal in
it, dredging each slice with flour on both sides ; add the
strained juice of a lemon, a little more wine, and suffi-
cient white stock to cover the meat. Close the lid over the
pan and let the contents simmer for five minutes. Put
it on a hot dish and ‘serve immediately, or it will harden.
Hotch-potch of Knuckles of Veal. — Put two knuckles of
Veal that have been sawed just above the knuckle joint
in a saucepan with some sliced onions, trimmings of fat,
lib. of streaky bacon that has been blanched and cut
into halves, two carrots and turnips cut in halves length-
wise, a bunch of sweet herbs, a small quantity of cloves
and peppercorns, and a lump of salt. Pour in l pint of
broth and stand the saucepan over the fire till the liquor
is reduced to half-glaze. When reduced, pour in more
broth to three-parts the height of the above ingredients,
boil it for a few minutes, then move the saucepan to the
edge of the fire and keep it simmering till the meat and
vegetables are tender. Wash and divide a cabbage in
quarters, and wash about twenty small lettuces. Blanch
and braise the cabbage and lettuces, and braise thirty
small onions. When the knuckles of Veal are cooked,
put the bacon on each side of them, and place round the
cabbage, lettuces, onions, carrots, and turnips. Put J pint
of gravy in the saucepan with the cooking-stock, boil it,
skim oil the fat, strain it over the meat, and serve.
Jellied Veal or Veal Cheese. — Take about 21b. of knuckle
of Veal, wash it, and cut it into two or three pieces. Let it
simmer in just enough water to cover it till the meat
easily comes from the bones (it will take from three to
four hours). Take it up, remove all the bone, and chop
the meat fine ; add to it salt, pepper, mace, and finely-
chopped shallots and thyme, according to taste. Put all
into the liquor and boil till it is almost dry, then stir
in the strained juice of a lemon. Turn it into a shape
or mould, and let it stand till next day. Turn it out on a dish,
and serve garnished with parsley (see Fig. 944).
Knuckle of Veal en Bagoftt. — Cut the meat off a knuckle
of Veal into slices, dust some salt and pepper over them,
put them in a frying-pan with a little butter, and fry lightly.
Break the bone, put it in a saucepan with several young-
carrots, a head of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a
blade of mace, add the slices of Veal, and moisten with
1 pint of water. When boiling, move the saucepan to the
side of the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for two
hours, or till the meat is tender. When cooked, take the Veal
out and put it on a hot dish. Pass the cooking-liquor
through a hue hair sieve, return it to the saucepan, and
mix h teacupful of tomato sauce, 1 table-spoonful of ketchup,
the juice of half a lemon, ami 1 wineglassful of white
wine with the sauce. Work 1 table-spoonful of flour with
Veal — continued.
loz. of butter, stir it over the fire, and boil for a few
minutes. Garnish the slices of meat with the vegetables,
pour the sauce over them, and serve at once.
Knuckle of Veal Soup. — Rinse two small knuckles of Veal
in warm water, and put them in a saucepan with a ham
bone and 4qts. of cold water ; when boiling, move the
saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the contents
simmer, keeping it well skimmed. Trim and wash
two or three leeks, a head of celery, and wash well in
plenty of water til), of rice, then put them in with the
soup. Cut off the discoloured outside leaves of six large
lettuces, wash the remainder, and blanch and braise them.
Peel a cucumber, cut it into quarters, and boil in salted
- water ; when cooked, drain the vegetables, put them in
a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and toss over the
fire for a few minutes. Boil separately in salted water 1
breakfast-cupful of green peas and the same quantity of
asparagus-lieads. Drain the lettuces, cut them into
quarters, and put them in a soup-tureen with the cucum-
bers, peas, and asparagus-lieads. Skim the fat off the
broth, and pour it slowly through a fine hair sieve over
the vegetables in the soup-tureen. Serve the soup while
very hot. If liked, the gelatinous pieces may be picked
off the knuckles, cut into small pieces, and put in the
soup.
Leg of Veal en Surprise. — Lard the Veal with fat bacon
and lemon-peel cut very thin. Make a rich oyster force-
meat to stuff it with. When stuffed, put it in a stewpan,
barely cover with water, and let it stew till tender and
thoroughly done, then take it up. Skim the liquor well,
leaving no fat on it, and add to it a piece of butter
rolled in flour, the crumb of a roll grated fine, a little
mushroom ketchup, a little lemon-juice, 1 pint of cream,
and J pint of oysters ; stir this over the fire till it thickens,
let it boil for a few minutes, then pour over the Veal ;
garnish with oysters fried in butter and slices of toasted
bacon.
Loin of Veal en Blanquette with Bechamel Sauce. —
The cold remains of a roasted loin of Veal will serve for this
purpose. Cut out the fillet, cover with a sheet of buttered
paper, and warm it in the oven. Make a blanquette with
the remainder. When ready, place the fillet with the
blanquette on a hot dish, and serve while very hot.
Loin of Veal a la Fermiere. — Stuff about 71b. of the loin
of Veal cut from the best end with Veal forcemeat, truss
it, and cover with a sheet of thickly -buttered paper. Fix
the Veal in front of a clear fire, and roast for an-hour-
and-a-half, basting it frequently with butter. At the end
of that time, baste the Veal with cream till it is quite
cooked (it will take about another half-hour). When
cooked, put the Veal on a hot dish, mix the basting-cream
with a little hot bechamel sauce and water, pour it over
the Veal, and serve.
Loin of Veal a la Financiere. — Bone a loin of Veal, trim
off some of the fat surrounding the kidney, beat the flap
lightly, then roll it round the fillet and kidney and tie
round with string. Put the joint in a stewpan with lqt.
each of mirepoix and broth, cover with a thick sheet of
buttered paper, and let it simmer for two hours, basting
occasionally. Lard four sweetbreads with fillets of fat
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
696
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
bacon, and cook them as for garnish, with six large
chicken -forcemeat quenelles, six large crayfish, and six
lambs’ sweetbreads, larded and glazed. Prepare a ragout
with some collops of fat livers, chicken -forcemeat quenelles,
cocks’ combs, onions, mushrooms, truffles, and Iqt. of
financiere sauce. Put a rice socle on a hot dish, and place
the loin on it ; pour the prepared ragout round the dish,
and garnish with the sweetbreads, &c. Cut the lambs’
sweetbreads in round slices, place them in two rows on
the joint, and stick four silver attelettes garnished with
tru files and cocks’ combs between the two lines of sweet-
breads (see Fig. 945). Serve the Veal with a sauceboatful
of financiere sauce.
Loin of Veal en Surprise. — -Bone a loin of Veal, flatten
it out, trim off some of the fat round the kidney, season
with pepper and salt, fold the flap under so as to cover
the kidney and fillet, and tie the Veal round with string
to keep it in shape. Wrap the Veal in a sheet of buttered
paper, fix it on the spit, and roast in front of a clear fire.
Ten minutes before the meat is taken up, remove the
paper and brown it. Remove a square piece of the skin
off the top of the loin, cut out some of the meat under-
neath it, chop it fine, mix a little hot bechamel sauce
with it, put the meat back in its original place, cover
with the skin again, put the joint on a hot dish, and
serve. The skin should be put back carefully, so as not
to show where it had been touched.
Macaronied Veal au Gratin. — Boil Jib. of macaroni until
soft; mince very finely fib. of cooked Veal, and rub the
contents of a small tin of tomatojs through a fine sieve
When the macaroni is cooked, drain, and chop it well.
Mix all the ingredients together with 3oz. of butter, loz.
of grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper to taste, and
a small quantity of mace. When well incorporated, turn
the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, level it evenly over
the surface, strew grated breadcrumb over, put a few
small pieces of butter on the top, and place it in a
quick oven until nicely browned. When ready, serve hot
in the same dish.
Marble Veal. — (1) Cut a boiled and skinned pickled tongue
into small pieces, put them in a mortar with lib. of
butter and a little powdered mace, and work to a paste.
Cut 41b. of cooked lean Veal into small pieces, and pound
that in the mortar also. Put a layer of Veal in a large
potting- jar, then some tongue, not spreading it out but
leaving it in lumps, and continue with the alternate layers of
ham and tongue till the pot is full ; press it tightly down,
and pour in some clarified butter. Tie a sheet of stout paper
over the jar, and keep it in a cool place. When ready to
serve the Veal, turn it out of the jar, cut it across in
thin slices, put them on a folded napkin or dish-paper on
a dish, and garnish with parsley.
(2) Cut some small thin cutlets from a fillet of Veal, and
have an equal quantity of thin rashers of bacon ; mix
together in small quantities, pepper, salt, cayenne, and
beaten mace, and rub the slices of meat and bacon well
with the seasoning. Line the bottom of a mould with !
slices of hard-boiled egg, fill it with alternate layers of the
Veal and bacon, and pour in some thickly-reduced gravy.
Tie the skin from the fillet over the top of the mould,
stand it in a pan of boiling water, and stew in the oven
for two hours. When cooked, leave the Veal until cold,
then turn it out, and serve.
(3) Chop the tenderest part of a boiled pickled tongue,
put it in a mortar, and pound. Chop and pound about 4lb.
of cold boiled Veal, and mix with it Jib. of butter and
a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Stir a little
cayenne and half the quantity of butter in with the
tongue. Coat the inside of a deep pie-dish with butter,
fill it with layers of the Veal, putting between each
layer a few table-spoonfuls of the tongue, and packing
them down tightly. When all the meat has been used,
cover the dish, stand it in a tin containing a little water,
and bake for an hour. When cooked, take the above
mixture out of the oven, leave it till cold, then pour some
melted butter over it, and keep it covered till ready to
serve.
Veal — continued.
Marsden Cake. — Butter the inside of a large pie-dish, and
lay round the sides of it slices of hard boiled eggs ; then
put in a layer of slices of cold Veal, chopped ham, and a
sprinkling of chopped mixed pickles. Season well with
salt and pepper, and pour a rich Veal gravy over. Repeat
these layers until the dish is full, and take care that the
gravy covers the Veal. Bake for twenty minutes, let it
get cold, and it will turn out in a strong jelly. A little
cold Veal stuffing broken up and distributed over the
layers of meat improves the flavour. The gravy should be
well seasoned and flavoured, and made sufficiently strong
to form a stiff jelly. Should there be any doubt as to the
quality of the gravy, a little isinglass should be dissolved
in it so as to ensure its jellying well when cold. Garnish
with parsley.
Mayonnaise of Tendons of Veal. — Cut some tendons into
small equal -sized pieces, blanch them for a few minutes
in boiling water, then drain and put them in a saucepan ;
cover tlie tendons with stock, and boil them till cooked.
Strain the cooking-liquor of the tendons into another
saucepan, and boil it till reduced to a creamy thickness ;
then put in the pieces of meat, and leave till cold. Boil
some onions and gherkins in stock, and when cooked
drain and leave them till cold. Put the pieces of meat on
a cold dish, garnish round with the onions, cover all with
mayonnaise sauce, and serve.
Melton Veal. — Chop some cold roasted or boiled Veal
very line, and add a little lemon-juice, salt, and pepper to
season it ; add also 3 table-spoonfuls of bread- or cracker-
crumbs, and moisten the whole with a little good soup
stock or hot water. Take some ham, about one third of
the bulk of the Veal, and chop it also very fine ; add a
little cayenne and dry mustard to season it, 1 table-
spoonful of bread- or cracker-crumbs, and sufficient hot
stock or water to moisten. Arrange some slices of
hard-boiled egg round a well-greased mould, and put in
the two mixtures in very irregular quantities to give it a
mottled appearance, squeezing it in tightly. Put the
mould over a saucepan of boiling water, and let it steam
Fig. 946. Melton Veal.
for forty five minutes. When done, put it in a cool
place, and let it get quite cold ; turn it out of the mould,
cut it into slices, garnish with parsley (see Fig. 946), and
serve.
Minced Veal. — (1) Trim off the bones and skin from some
cold Veal, either loin or fillet. Put the bones and trimmings
of the Veal in a saucepan with one sliced onion, a small
quantity of grated lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs,
and pepper and salt ; pour in a little over 1 pint of water,
and keep it boiling gently for an-hour-and-ten minutes.
Strain the liquor through a fine hair sieve into another
saucepan, skim it well, put in loz. of butter that has
been worked with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir it
over the fire till boiling. Chop the Veal finely, and put
it in with the gravy ; stir it over the fire till thoroughly
hot, then pour in a little more than 1 teacupful of cream
or milk, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon- juice. Move the sauce
pan to the side of the fire. Fry some thin rashers of
bacon, and tie them into little rolls. Put some sippets of
toast on a hot dish, pour the mince over them, garnish
with the rolls of bacon and some slices of lemon, and serve.
(2) Finely mince any remains of cold cooked Veal, and
the more underdone the better. For lib. of the Veal
allow 1 teacupful each of milk, stock, and breadcrumbs,
loz. of butter, and the yellow rind of one lemon. Grate
the lemon-peel, and mix it with the minced meat; season
it with pepper, salt, and a small quantity of grated
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THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
G97
Veal — continued.
nutmeg, put the meat into a saucepan, pour the milk
and stock over it, and stir over the fire until boiling.
Turn the mixture on to a dish, spread it out, strew the
breadcrumbs on the top, and put the butter broken into
small pieces on them. Brown the top under a salamander
or in a brisk oven, and serve.
(3) Cut up some cold Veal very fine, season it with a very
small quantity of finely-chopped lemon-peel, a very little
grated nutmeg, and salt to taste. Put a few table-spoon-
fuls of water, milk, or weak stock over the fire, and
thicken with flour and butter ; when the thickening
has boiled for ten minutes, add to it the seasoned Veai,
and let it barely simmer till hot ; then pour it on to a
hot dish, and serve garnished with rolls of toasted thin
bacon round it, and a poached egg or two laid on top.
(4) Finely mince some white flesh of cold roast Veal.
Chop a shallot, put it in a stewpan with a good sized
lump of butter, and fry until lightly browned ; dredge it
with flour, and moisten with a small quantity of clear
white stock. Stir the sauce until boiling, then put in the
mince with 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley ; season to
taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, and keep it at the side of the fire. When the
meat is thoroughly hot, stir in the yolk of an egg that
has been beaten up with the juice of half a lemon and
strained. Turn the mince on to a hot dish, lay four
poached eggs on the top, garnish round with sippets of
toast or croutons of bread that have been fried a delicate
brown in butter, and serve.
(5) Finely mince some cold remains of cooked Veal.
Put a few small mushrooms in a stewpan with a piece of
butter, and place them over the fire for a-quarter-of-an-
liour ; next put in the mince with loz. of butter that
has been worked up with 1 table -spoonful each of flour
and cream, season to taste with salt and pepper, and let
the whole simmer at the edge of the fire for five or six
minutes. When ready, turn the mince on to a hot dish,
garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of bread that
have been fried a delicate brown in butter, and serve.
Minced Veal d la Biscayenne. —Proceed as for Minced
Veal a la Catalan, adding 1 pint of potatoes cooked in
Parisian style, and two cut-up tomatoes fifteen minutes
before serving.
Minced Veal a la Catalan. — Mince 2lb. of Veal and
brown it in a saucepan with 3 table -spoonfuls of sweet-
oil, one onion cut in quarters, and half a minced green
pepper. When a fine colour, add 2 table-spoonfuls of
flour, and mix thoroughly. Moisten with 1 pint of white
broth, and season with 1 heaped table -spoonful of salt
and 1 teaspoonful of pepper ; stir briskly, and add a
bouquet-garni, three crushed cloves of garlic, and 1 gill of
tomato sauce. Cook well for twenty-five minutes, and serve
on a hot dish, sprinkling over a little chopped parsley.
Minced Veal a la Polonaise. — Mince a sufficient quantity
of lean cooked Veal to fill two breakfast-cups, put it into
a stewpan, moisten with a moderate quantity of rich
gravy, and add seasonings to taste. Make the Veal hot,
then move it to the side of the fire, and stir in the yolk of
an egg that has been beaten with the juice of half a lemon
and strained. Wash and boil the required quantity of
spinach, and when tender drain and press it well to
extract all the water possible. Chop the spinach and put
it into a saucepan with \ teacupful of thick cream, loz.
of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity
each of powdered white sugar and grated nutmeg. Stir
the spinach over the fire for a few minutes, being very
careful not to let it burn, then pack it closely in a buttered
border mould, and keep it hot in a bain-marie. Poach a
few eggs as carefully as possible, and fry some thin rolls
of bacon. Turn the border out of the mould on to a hot
dish, pour the minced Veal in the centre, lay the eggs on
the top of the Veal, first trimming off any ragged edges,
and place the rolls of bacon on the border of spinach,
alternating each roll with a small crouton of fried bread.
Serve while hot.
Minced Veal .a la Turque. — Finely mince 31b. of raw Veal,
put it into a saucepan with 2oz. of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls
Veal — continued.
of water, and 1 saltspoonful of salt, and stir it over the
fire until the moisture has evaporated and the mince well
browned. Peel and finely chop three onions and a small
bunch of parsley from the stems ; soak the crumb of a
French roll in water. Mix all the ingredients together,
season with salt and pepper, and stir in sufficient beaten
egg to make a stiffish paste, working it well. Put 4oz.
of lmtter into a deep frying-pan, place it over the fire till
hot, then pour in the mixture and fry it till nicely
browned, turning it when done on one side and finishing
the other. When cooked, turn the cake of mincemeat
on to an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve immediately.
Minced Veal with Currants. — Cut the remains of some
cold roast Veal into small square pieces, removing the
skin. Put 2oz. or 3oz. of butter in a saucepan with 1
teacupful of breadcrumbs, and stir them over the fire until
nicely browned ; then put in 1 breakfast-cupful of well-
washed currants and a piece of lemon-peel, pour in 1 pint
of gravy and 1 wineglassful of white wine, season with a
small quantity of salt, and simmer gently at the side of
the fire. When the currants are soft, put in the pieces
of Veal, and make them hot without boiling. Turn the
mince on to a hot dish, and serve.
Minced Veal with Macaroni. — Finely mince lib. of Veal,
and mix with it Jib. each of minced ham and finely -grated
breadcrumb, and a little grated lemon-peel. Season the
mixture with salt and pepper, and bind it together with
2 table-spoonfuls of rich gravy and two well-beaten eggs.
Boil 6oz. of macaroni, and when tender drain it well.
Butter a mould, line it with macaroni, mix a little of the
macaroni with the Veal mixture, and turn it into the
mould, pressing it tightly down. Stand the mould in a
saucepan with boiling water to three-parts its height, and
steam for half- -an -hour. When cooked, turn the Veal and
macaroni out of the mould on to a hot dish, and serve with
a sauceboatful of rich gravy.
Minced Veal with Mushrooms and Cream. -Empty a
tin of small mushrooms into a saucepan, put in a piece of
butter, and stew them for fifteen minutes over a slow fire.
Finely chop some cold roasted Veal, and season it with pepper
and salt. Mince the mushrooms, mix them with the Veal,
and turn all into a saucepan with 2oz. of butter that has
been worked with 2 table spoonfuls of flour, and a little
more than $ teacupful of cream, or creamy sauce. Stir the
mixture over the fire for a few minutes. Turn the mince
on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast, and serve.
Minced Veal with Poached Eggs. -Chop as finely as
possible some cold lean Veal, put it into a stewpan with
sufficient bechamel sauce to moisten, but not to make it
too thin, and let it heat gradually at the side of the fire.
Poach a sufficient quantity of eggs in water in which a
small quantity of vinegar has been mixed, and as each
lot are done take them out and put them into another
pan of water. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the
minced Veal, and turn it on to a hot dish. Take the
eggs out of the water one at a time with a slice, trim
them nicely, lay them over the mince, garnish with toast
sippets (see Fig. 947), and serve.
Minced Veal with Potatoes. — Finely chop some cold
cooked Veal, and mix with it an equal quantity of cold
boiled potatoes also finely chopped, a lump of butter, and
a little hot Veal broth or water. Season the mixture with
salt and pepper, and dredge a little flour over it. Put
the mixture into a saucepan, cover with the lid, and stand it
over the fire till hot. Turn the mince on to a hot dish,
For details respecting Culinary Processes. Utensils , Sauces. d*c., referred to. see under their special heads.
Ml'Wsii 1
libha kr '
LFFIW
G98
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast,
and serve.
Mireton of Veal. — (1) Finely chop some cold roasted Veal,
mix with it ill), of ham also very finely chopped, and
season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Soak the
crumb of a French roll in 1 teacupful of milk. Slice a
small onion, and fry it till nicely browned in a little
butter ; then drain it and mince finely. Put the above
ingredients in a saucepan with the grated peel of half a
lemon and 1 teacupful of cream, and stir it over the lire
till thoroughly hot. Beat an egg well, add it to the
above mixture, then move the saucepan off the fire.
Butter a mould, turn the mixture into it, and press
down tightly ; put the mould in the oven, and brown the
contents. When cooked, turn the mireton on to a hot
dish, pour some rich gravy over it, and serve.
(2) Chop very fine about fib. of cold boiled or roasted
Veal, and fib. of tongue, ham, or bacon. Mix with it
about 3oz. of crumb of bread soaked in milk, and a well-
beaten egg ; stir in also an onion chopped fine and fried a
light brown, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Place
the mixture over the fire in a saucepan, and stew it a
little; when thoroughly hot, put it in a buttered mould
or basin, bake till the top is brown, then turn it out on
to a hot dish ; pour over some cullis or brown gravy, and
serve hot.
Montglas of Veal.— Cut Alb. of cold roasted Veal into
pieces about lin. long, put them into a basin with fib. of
boiled calf’s feet cut into small pieces, an equal quantity
of pickled ox-tongue, and the same quantity each of
chopped cooked mushrooms and gherkins. Pour some
salad-oil and vinegar over the above ingredients, season
them with salt, pepper, and mustard, mix well together,
and let them macerate for an hour. Put the meat, &c.,
on a fancy dish, thicken the marinade with 1 teacupful
of mayonnaise sauce, sprinkle in some chopped parsley and
chives, pour it over the meat, garnish with aspic jelly,
and serve.
Montglas of Veal with. Crohtons. — Trim off all the sinewy
parts of a cooked minion fillet of Veal, cut it into slices
about fin. thick, then cut them into small squares. Put
the Veal into a saucepan with half its quantity of cooked
pickled ox- tongue and mushrooms also cut into small
pieces. Pour J pint of brown sauce and 1 wineglassful of
Madeira wine over the above ingredients, season with a little
cayenne pepper, and keep over the fire till on the point
of boiling, then move to the side. Turn the montglas
on to a hot dish, garnish with glazed croutons of fried
bread, and serve.
Heck of Veal d la Bruxellaise. — Cut off the chine-bones
of a neck of Veal, and trim it to a nice shape. Peel and
slice three onions, two carrots, two turnips, and one leek ;
cut a few sticks of celery into small pieces, lay the Veal
on a dish with four bay- leaves and a few sprigs of thyme
and parsley, cover with the vegetables, and moisten with
a few table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Let it marinade for a
few hours, place the vegetables on sheets of paper, four
sheets in thickness, lay the Veal on the top, and wrap
the paper well round, being careful to secure it tightly or
the vegetables will escape. Boast it in front of a clear
fire. Twenty minutes before the Veal is done, remove the
paper and vegetables, and brown it. Trim and wash 31b.
or 41b. of Brussels sprouts, put them into a saucepan of
boiling water, and boil ; do not over-cook the sprouts,
but when just tender turn them on to a sieve to drain
thoroughly. Put 2oz. of butter into a stewpan, melt it,
then put in the sprouts; squeeze the juice of half a
lemon over them, season with salt and pepper and about
J teaspoonful of sugar, and toss them about gently over
the fire until nicely glazed with the butter. Turn the
sprouts on to a hot dish, and stand the Veal on them ;
pour a little thin white sauce over the Veal, and serve.
Heck of Veal a la Milanaise. — Trim and lard a neck of
Veal ; butter a stewpan, line it with slices of bacon, put
in the Veal with a carrot, turnip, and two small onions,
each stuck with two cloves ; add a bunch of sweet herbs,
and moisten with 2 pints of white stock and J pint of I
Veal — continued.
bucellas wine. Boil the Veal quickly for fifteen minutes,
then skim the liquor, put the cover on the stewpan, and
place it in a moderate oven. Baste the meat occasionally
with its cooking- liquor. Blanch Jib. of macaroni and
seven or eight large mushrooms, and cut them into small
pieces ; cut into pieces the same size, six French truffles
and 2oz. of cooked tongue. Pour 2J breakfast-cupfuls of
white sauce into a stewpan, stir it over the fire until
boiling, then put in the prepared ingredients and boil them
gently. Season the sauce to taste with salt and a small
quantity each of cayenne pepper and sugar. Add Jib. of
grated Parmesan cheese and 1 teacupful of cream, and
stir at the edge of the fire until the cheese has melted.
Turn the sauce on to a hot dish, place the Veal on it,
glaze it, and serve.
Neck of Veal a la Mirepoix. — Put some rasped bacon,
{ 1 b. of chopped ham, three bay-leaves, a sprig or two of
thyme, and a lump of butter in a stewpan; dust in a
little pepper and salt, and fry them over a slow fire. Cut
some neck of Veal into small pieces, trim them, put them
in the stewpan with the other ingredients, and fry ; when
fried, leave the mirepoix till cold. Butter a sheet of white
paper, cover with thin layers of bacon, put the mirepoix
on it, and wrap in several sheets of paper. Bake the
mirepoix for an-hour-and-a-half in a moderate oven. When
cooked, take the mirepoix out of the paper, put it on a
hot dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of Spanish sauce.
Neck of Veal a la Rouennaise. — Cut off the skin and
chine-bones of a neck of Veal, and lard it. Melt a lump
of butter in a stewpan, line it with thin slices of fat
bacon, put in the Veal, the larded side upwards, together
with one large onion with three or four cloves stuck in
it, one turnip, one carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
Cover the Veal with stock and J pint of bucellas wine,
place the stewpan over the fire, and boil the contents for
a-quarter-of-an-hour, then put it into a rather slow oven
and leave it until the Veal is tender. Baste the Veal
occasionally while in the oven with its own cooking-
liquor. Put J teacupful of salad-oil in a stewpan and
place it over the fire ; when hot, put in two or three
chopped shallots and mushrooms and 2 table-spoonfuls of
chopped parsley. Stir them over the fire for eight or ten
minutes, drain off the oil, dredge a small quantity of
Hour over them, and mix in gradually a little over 1 pint
of white sauce. Continue stirring it over the fire, and
boil for a few minutes; then move it to the side, stir
in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and season to taste with
salt, pepper, and a small quantity of sugar. Put the
Veal on a hot dish, the larded side upwards, pour the
sauce over it, strew grated breadcrumb on the top, and
brown it under a salamander. Pour a shallot sauce
round the dish, and serve.
Neck of Veal 4 la St. Clair. — Boast a nicely -trimmed
best end of a neck of Veal in vegetables ; when nearly
cooked, remove the paper and vegetables, and brown it
lightly. Peel and boil a sufficient quantity of potatoes,
mash them with butter, and press them into a border
mould ; stand the mould in a bain-marie to keep hot.
Make about 1 pint of thin tomato sauce, and mix with
it J table-spoonful of anchovy butter. Cut a dozen slices
of bacon into heart-shaped pieces, and fry them. Place
the Veal on a hot dish, garnish with the slices of bacon,
and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Neck of Veal with Puree of Celery.— Trim the best end
of a neck of Veal, cutting off the chine-bones ; peel and
cut into thin slices three large onions, two large turnips,
and two carrots ; cut two or three sticks of celery into
small lengths, and slice one leek. Moisten the vegetables
with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, and mix with
them a few sprigs of thyme and parsley and four bay-
leaves. Bun a lark -spit lengthwise through the Veal;
lay all the vegetables on paper five or six sheets thick,
lay the Veal on it, and wrap the paper round, tying it
securely to keep the vegetables in. Fix the Veal in front
of a clear fire and roast it, keeping it well basted. Have
ready boiled two pieces of bacon of equal length and
about 2 Jin. wide, and glaze them; when the Veal is
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
699
Veal — continued.
cooked, remove it from the vegetables and glaze it also ;
place it in the centre of a hot dish, with the bacon at
each end, pour a puree of celery round the whole, and
serve while very hot.
Noix of Veal en Ballotines. — Lard a noix (cushion) of Veal
with strips of bacon that have been well seasoned with mixed
spices, finely-chopped parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, shallot, salt,
and pepper. Melt about ilb. of butter in a stewpan,
dredge the Veal over with salt and pepper, put it in, and
stew over a slow fire. In tliree-quarters-of-an-hour take the
Veal out of the pan and put it on a dish. Mix in with
the butter 4 table-spoonfuls of grated bacon, 1 teacupful
of pure olive oil, and a scant table-spoonful of chopped
shallots. Fry these ingredients for a few minutes, then put
in ten or twelve chopped champignons, 1 table-spoonful of
chopped parsley, and season with pepper and a small
quantity of grated nutmeg. When quite cooked, pour the
mixture over the Veal and leave it until cold. After-
wards cover the meat with thin slices of bacon, and wrap
it with all its seasoning in a sheet of paper ; fold it up
securely, seeing that the seasoning cannot escape, and bind
it round with tape. Place it on a gridiron, and cook over
a slow fire for an hour, turning it occasionally. Take
care not to let the paper burn. When cooked, place the
meat on a hot dish, and serve.
Noix of Veal a la Jardiniere. — Beat and trim a noix of
Veal, and lard it with thin strips of fat bacon ‘2in. long.
Put some slices of bacon and two sliced onions in a stew-
pan with two bay-leaves and a few sprigs of parsley, then
add the noix, pour over it 1 pint of white stock, cover
with the lid, and put it in a moderate oven for three
hours. Baste the Veal occasionally with its own liquor ;
if the moisture becomes absorbed, pour in a little more
broth or some water. Peel eighteen young onions, the
same of young turnips, and the same of young carrots ; the
carrots and turnips should be cut to the shape of small p>ears.
Blanch the vegetables; put loz. of butter in a sautd-pan
with 1 table-spoonful of moist sugar, melt it, then put in the
onions ; cover them with stock, and stew gently until tender.
Cook the carrots and turnips in the same way, only in
separate pans. The cooking-stock of the vegetables should
be reduced to a thin glaze by the time they are cooked.
Peel and boil about 4lb. of potatoes, drain them when
soft, mash them with a little milk or butter, press them
into a border mould, and stand it in a bain-marie. Put
the glaze from the vegetables into a saucepan with lqt.
of brown sauce and about 1 breakfast cupful of the gravy
from the Veal, first freeing it from fat. Boil the sauce
until it becomes reduced to a rather thick demi-glaze,
skimming it well. When cooked, glaze the noix and
brown it slightly under the salamander. Turn the border
of potatoes on to a hot dish, arrange the glazed vege-
tables on the border, and put the noix in the centre.
Pour the sauce over the vegetables, and serve.
Noix of Veal a la Palestine. — Procure the noix or nut
from a leg of Veal, beat it well, trim it, and lard with
thin strips of fat bacon 2in. long. Line the bottom of a
stewpan with slices of bacon and two sliced onions, and
put in two bay-leaves, two or three sprigs of thyme and
parsley, tied together, and then the Veal ; pour in 1
pint of white broth, place the lid on the stewpan, and
put it in a moderate oven for three hours. Baste the
meat occasionally with some of its own cooking-liquor ;
if it becomes too dry, a little water or more broth may
be poured in. Peel 21b. of Jerusalem artichokes, wash
them well, and trim to a pear shape ; put them in a
saucepan with a lump of butter about loz. in weight, a
small lump of salt, water to cover, and boil until tender.
Peel and boil 31b. of potatoes, and when soft drain them,
mash them with a little milk or butter, and pack them
into a border mould, standing it in a bain-marie to keep
hot. Boil and drain well about lib. of Brussels sprouts.
Prepare the following sauce: Put about six thinly-sliced
artichokes that have been peeled and washed into a stew-
pan with 4oz. of butter, a bay-leaf, a few sprigs of
parsley tied together, 1 table-spoonful of chopped lean
ham, J table-spoonful of clear broth, and \ teaspoonful
of sugar. Boil the sauce gently until the artichokes are
V eal — continued.
soft, then pour in 1 pint of .bechamel sauce, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and boil for twenty minutes
longer; at the end of that time pass it through a fine
hair sieve. Beat the yolks of two eggs with 3 table-
spoonfuls of cream, pour them into the sauce, and stir
it at the side of the fire till very hot, but do not let it
boil again. When cooked, glaze the Veal and brown it
slightly under a salamander or in the oven. Turn the
border of potatoes on to a hot dish, scoop out a little
hollow in the thickest part of each artichoke, and plant
the Brussels sprouts in them ; then place the artichokes,
the thinnest end downwards, in the potato border. Put
the Veal in the centre of the dish, pour the sauce over the
potatoes, and serve.
Noix of Veal a la Potagere. — Beat the noix well, trim
it to a nice shape, and lard with thin fillets of fat bacon.
Line a flat stewpan with slices of bacon and two or three
sliced onions ; put in the noix with a small bunch of
thyme and parsley and two bay-leaves, moisten with 1
pint of white broth, put the lid on the stewpan, and
place it in a moderate oven. Cook the Veal for three
hours, basting it occasionally with the broth in the pan ;
if all the moisture becomes absorbed, a small quantity of
water should be poured in. Meanwhile boil and mash
sufficient potatoes to make a border on a hot dish ; boil
also a white cauliflower, and when cooked separate the
branches and lay them on the top of the potato border.
Glaze the noix and brown it lightly under a salamander ;
then put it in the hollow of the border (see Fig. 948),
and keep it hot. Strain and free the cooking- liquor of
the noix from all fat, pour it into a small stewpan with
H pints of white sauce, and boil it quickly for ten minutes ;
then mix in 2 table spoonfuls of thick cream and 1 tea-
spoonful of sugar, boil it up again, then pour it over the
cauliflower and potatoes, and serve at once.
Noix of Veal a la Prince. — Prepare the noix, and lard
it with thin fillets of fat bacon ; put it in a flat stewpan
with a few slices of bacon, two sliced onions, two or
three bay-leaves, and a few sprigs of parsley ; moisten
with 1 pint of white broth, put the lid on the stewpan,
put it into a moderate oven, and leave for three hours,
basting the noix occasionally with the liquor in the pan.
If the moisture dries, add a little more broth or water.
Disgorge eight or ten lamb’s sweetbreads in warm water,
then blanch them, and refresh them in cold water. Lard
the sweetbreads with thin strips of bacon, put them in a
stewpan that has been lined with slices of bacon, two
sliced onions, a few sprigs of thyme and parsley, and two
bay- leaves; moisten to height with broth, place the lid
on the stewpan, put it in the oven, and cook the sweet-
breads for about half-an-hour. Peel and warm eight or
ten plover’s eggs in white broth. Prepare a border of
mashed potatoes on a hot dish, and arrange the sweet-
breads and eggs alternately on it. Glaze the noix of
Veal, and place it in the centre. Skim off all the fat,
and strain the cooking- liquor of the Veal and sweetbreads
into a stewpan ; mix with it lqt. of brown sauce and 1
pint of broth, place it over a brisk fire, stir it, and boil
quickly until reduced to the consistency of cream. Take
the sauce oft' the fire, mix with it 2oz. of butter and 1
teaspoonful of sugar, stir the sauce until the butter has
For deta.ls respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
700
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
dissolved, them pour it over the sweetbreads and eggs,
and serve immediately.
Noix of Veal Saute. — Trim off the skin and cut a noix of
Veal into small round pieces about H-in. in diameter, beat
and trim them neatly. Put Jib. of butter into a saute -pan,
place it over a good fire, and when melted put in the
pieces of meat with 1 or 2 table -spoonfuls of finely-chopped
parsley and scallions ; toss them until cooked, them place
them on a hot dish. Pour b pint of stiffly-reduced
veloute sauce into the pan with the butter, stir it over
the fire until boiling, then move it to the side and stir
in quickly the yolks of two eggs that have been well
beaten with 2 table spoonfuls of cream. Pour the sauce
over the meat, and serve.
Paupiettes of Veal. — (1) Finely chop f ib. of lean Veal, and
mix with it a little finely-chopped kidney-suet and streaky
bacon. Season the mince with sweet herbs, sage, a point
of garlic, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind the
mixture with a beaten egg. Cut some slices off a loin of
Veal, and chop them into small oblongs, trimming off all
the sinewy parts. Beat the collops lightly, dust a little
salt and pepper over them, and put a small quantity of
the above mixture on each. Fold over the edges of the
collops, then roll them into a long shape, and run a
skewer through them, putting a thin slice of ham
between each. Dredge some flour over the paupiettes, put
them in a flat stewpan with some clarified butter, and
bake till nicely browned. When cooked, arrange the
paupiettes on a hot dish, pour the butter in which they
were cooked over them, garnish with quarters of lemon
(see Fig. 949), and serve.
(2) Cut 21b. of Veal off the leg into six thin slices.
Pare them to the size of the hand, and season with 1
table-spoonful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of pepper.
Cover them with any kind of forcemeat, roll, and tie
together with string. Put them in a saute -pan with
scraps of pork, adding half a sliced carrot and half a sliced
onion, cover with a bard of larding- pork on top, and
brown for ten minutes. Moisten with 1 gill of white
broth, cover with buttered paper, and put in the oven
to finish cooking for twenty-five minutes. Serve with J
pint of puree of lentils mixed with 2 table spoonfuls of
cream, and 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
Paupiettes of Veal with Puree of Chestnuts. -The
same as for Paupiettes of Veal (2), using \ pint of hot
puree of chestnuts in place of lentils.
Paupiettes of Veal with d’Uxelles Sauce. — The same as
for Paupiettes of Veal (2), putting J pint of d’Uxelles
sauce on the dish and arranging the paupiettes over it.
Pickled Fillet of Veal. — Lard a thick slice of Veal that
has been cut off the leg with some fillets of anchovies ;
put it in a deep dish, dust some salt and pepper over,
cover with vinegar, and let it macerate for seven or eight
hours. Drain and dry the slice of Veal, take out the bone
from the centre, rub it over with flour, and fry it in
olive oil over a slow fire till nicely browned on both sides,
then put it on a hot dish. Squeeze the juice of a lemon
m the frying-pan, stir it over the fire, then pour it over
the Veal, and serve.
Potted Veal. — (1) Take a cutlet of fillet of Veal weighing
about fib. or more, season to taste with peppercorns,
cloves, and mace, put it into a potting-pan that will only
just hold it, fill up the pan with water, and bake for
three hours. Put it into a mortar, and pound it fine with
salt to taste and loz. or 2oz. of butter slightly warmed. If
it be for immediate use, a little of the gravy it was
V eal — continued.
baked in may be used to moisten it in the mortar ; if to
be kept any time, do not use anything but the butter.
When beaten to a fine smooth paste, press it into pots,
and pour over sufficient butter melted to oil to cover it
about Jin. deep.
(2) Put lib. of lean Veal into a stewpan with 2oz. of
butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, sifted mace,
allspice, cloves, nutmegs, cinnamon, and mushroom powder,
using a small quantity of each, also a little thyme, sweet
herbs, and a small onion chopped fine. Stew for ten
minutes, then pound them ; add lib. of the mellow part
of a boiled tongue beaten to a paste, Jib. of cold butter,
and mix all well together with two well-beaten eggs;
then press the mixture down tight in small pots, cover
with paper, and put them into a moderate oven. Bake
for twenty minutes, pour over some clarified butter, and
they are ready for use, and will keep a long time.
Potted Veal and Ham. — Pound some nicely -seasoned cold
Veal to a smooth paste with a small quantity of butter,
press a layer of it into a pot, put over it a layer of ham,
either shred fine or pounded, and press it down. Fill
the jar or pot with alternate layers of pounded Veal or
chicken and the shred ham, pressing each well down as
it is laid in. Cover the top with a layer of butter
melted to oil, about Jin. deep.
Quenelles of Veal. — Trim off the fat from lib. of Veal,
chop it, put it into a mortar, and pound it. Put 1 break-
fast-cupful of breadcrumbs into a saucepan with b pint
of milk, and stir them over the fire till smooth, then
leave them till cool. Mix the pounded Veal and bread-
crumbs together, season them with a small quantity of
grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, pepper and
salt, and add b pint of white sauce, the yolks of four
eggs (one at a time), and then the well-whisked whites
of the eggs. Melt a lump of butter in a frying-pan.
Mould the mixture into quenelles with two table-spoons,
which should be dipped in hot water each time a fresh
quenelle is moulded. Slip the quenelles off the spoons
into the frying-pan, and when all are finished, cover them
with boiling white stock and cook them for twenty
minutes. Prepare a border of mashed potatoes on a hot
dish. When cooked, drain the quenelles, put them on
the border, with 1 table -spoonful of bechamel sauce on
each, pour some bechamel sauce in the centre of the dish,
and serve the quenelles at once.
Quenelles of Veal a la Toulouse. — Chop about fib. of
Veal, put it in a mortar, pound it, and mix with it two-
thirds of its quantity of ground rice panada and the same
of butter. Mix them well, stir in the beaten yolks of
three eggs, and season with salt and pepper. Pass the
mixture through a fine hair sieve into a basin, and mix
with it 2 table -spoonfuls of cream. Take two table-spoons,
fill one with the forcemeat, and put the other in hot water ;
smooth the surface of the forcemeat in the spoon with
the blade of a knife, then scoop it out with the other
spoon, removing the quenelle at one jerk, and drop it
in a saute pan, the bottom of which has been covered
with butter. Continue moulding the quenelles in this
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <i-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
701
V eal — continued.
way till all the forcemeat is used, then cover them with
boiling salted water, stand the saute -pan over the fire,
and boil the water ; then move it to the side, put the
lid on, and let it simmer for five minutes. Drain the
quenelles, and dry them on a cloth. Pile some button-
mushrooms, trufties, and cocks’ combs, prepared as for
garnish, in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the
quenelles round it in an upright position, decorate the
top and between the quenelles with some trufties and
cocks’ combs (see Fig. 950), coat the whole with veloutc
sauce that has been reduced with some trimmings of
mushrooms, and serve it.
Quenelles of Veal with Tomato Sauce. — Mince some
lean, uncooked Veal, and pound it in a mortar. Make
half its quantity of paste, by boiling a little flour and
water together with a small lump of butter, and leaving
it to get cold. Mix the paste with the Veal, pound the
whole again, and pass it through a fine hair sieve. Season
the mixture to taste with salt, pepper, and a moderate
quantity of spices, and beat well in with it a sufficient
quantity of yolk of egg to bring it to the proper con-
sistency. Try if the mixture is of the right consistency
by poaching a small quantity of it in boiling water.
Shape the mixture into quenelles with two table-spoons,
and lay each one as it is done in a buttered flat stewpan,
leaving a short space between each. Put in one of the
clear spaces about 1 dessert spoonful of salt, pour carefully
round the quenelles a sufficient quantity of boiling water
to cover them, and poach them for ten minutes. Have
ready prepared the following sauce : Cut up about lib. of
ripe tomatoes, put them into a stewpan with a few sprigs
of parsley, thyme, and marjoram, also a laurel leaf, all
tied together, add a few cloves and peppercorns, salt to
taste, and a small quantity of water, and- stew them till
tender. When cooked, drain oft as much of the water as
possible from the tomatoes, and rub them through a fine
hair sieve. Mix together in a stewpan loz. of butter
and 1 table-spoonful of flour, add the tomato pulp, and
stir it over the fire until very hot. Turn the tomato
sauce on to a hot dish, drain the quenelles and lay
them on it, and serve.
Rechauffe of Cold Veal. — (1) Mix with some finely-grated
breadcrumbs some finely-chopped lemon-peel, parsley, and
sweet herbs, seasoning them with grated nutmeg, salt, and
pepper. Cut some cold cooked Veal into thin slices, dip them
in beaten egg, and coat them thickly with the above mixture.
Put a lump of butter in a deep frying-pan, melt it, put
in the slices of Veal, and fry them till well and equally
browned. When done, drain the Veal, and put it on a
hot dish. Mix a little flour in the frying-pan with the
butter, add the juice of a small lemon, 1 table- spoonful of
mushroom ketchup, and h pint of veal broth, and stir it
over the fire till boiling. Garnish the Veal with slices
of lemon and pickled mushrooms, pour the sauce over it,
and serve at once.
(2) Cut some cold roasted Veal into thin slices, spread a
little of the stuffing over them, and dust them over with
pepper, salt, and flour. Put 1 teacupful of flour in a
basin with a little dried parsley, pepper, and salt, then
stir in gradually | pint of skim milk and two well beaten
eggs. Put a lump of butter (about loz.) into a deep
frying-pan, and when it boils pour in the batter, put the
slices of meat in the middle, and fry it over a slow fire
for ten minutes, shaking the pan to prevent it burning.
When the batter is set, bring the edges up over the meat,
then turn it quickly on to the other side. When cooked,
take the rechauffe up with a slice, put it on to a hot
dish, pour a little brown gravy over it, and serve.
Roasted Breast of Veal. — (1) Remove the tendons from a
breast of Veal, fasten the sweetbread to the joint with
skewers, wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper, and roast
it in front of a clear fire. When the Veal is cooked,
which will take about one-hour-and-a-quarter, or per-
haps more according to the size of the joint, remove the
paper, put the Veal on a hot dish, garnish it with slices
of lemon, pour over it a little rich gravy, and serve with
a sauceboatful of melted butter.
Veal — continued.
(2) Cut the tendons off the Veal, wash and wipe it dry, stuff
it with Veal forcemeat, and secure it with small skewers.
Fix the Veal in front of a clear fire, and baste it well
with butter, allowing it to roast twenty minutes for each
pound. When cooked, put the Veal on a hot dish, cover
it with melted butter, and serve it.
Roasted Chump of Veal. — Put a chump of Veal in a
deep dish, dust some mixed herbs, salt, and pepper over
it, cover it with white wine, and let it soak for two
days. At the end of that time, lard the Veal with some
strips of bacon, and roast it in front of a clear fire. In
the meantime, prepare some ravigote sauce. When
cooked, put the chump of Veal on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over, and serve.
Roasted Chump of Veal with German Garnishing.—
Bone and truss a chump of Veal to its former shape,
wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper, and roast it in
front of a clear fire. When nearly cooked, take the
paper off the chump, and brown it. Put it on a hot dish,
garnish it with nouilles a l’allemande, and serve with
a sauceboatful of German sauce.
Roasted Cushion of Veal. — Cut off the udder and trim a
cushion of Veal, lard it inwardly with squares of raw
ham, bacon, and trufties, cover it with trimmings of mush-
rooms, a few sprigs of thyme, two or three bay-leaves, and
season it with pepper, salt and spices. Wrap the Veal in
a pig’s caul, tie it round the twine, fix it on a spit,
and roast it in front of a clear fire. In an hour’s time,
take the string and caul off the meat, baste it well, and
roast it for twelve or fifteen minutes longer. When cooked,
put the meat on a hot dish, pour some tomato sauce
round it, and serve.
Roasted Fillet of Veal. — Bone 101b. of the fillet of Veal,
rub it well with salt and pepper, fill the hollow left by
the bone with ham forcemeat, tie the meat round, and
skewer it. Cut Hb. of salt pork into thin slices, put
half of these on a sheet of tin that will fit in the drip
ping-pan, put the Veal in the pan, and cover it with the
remaining slices of pork ; then pour h teacupful of hot
water in the pan and stand it in the oven, adding more
water as it dries up. Baste the meat frequently with
salt, pepper, flour, and the gravy in the pan. In three
hour’s time remove the pork off the Veal, spread the top
thickly with butter and flour, and cook it for half-an-
hour longer ; then cover it with more butter and flour,
and bake it till well browned. Put 3 table-spoonfuls of
butter in a saucepan, with 2 piled up table-spoonfuls of
flour, and stir it over the fire till brown. Pour A pint of
stock or water in with the butter, stir it two or three
minutes over the fire, then move it to the side where it
will keep warm. When cooked, take up the fillet of
Veal and put it on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the
gravy in the pan, pour in sufficient boiling water to make
l pint of gravy, stir it well, then pour it in the sauce-
pan with the sauce. Boil the sauce, squeeze in the
juice of half a lemon, and season it to taste with pepper
and salt. Strain the sauce over the Veal, garnish it
with slices of lemon, and serve.
Roasted Fillets of Veal with Fine Herbs. — Lard the
fillets with thin strips of bacon, put them in a deep dish
with some finely chopped mushrooms, shallots, chives,
parsley, fennel, laurel-leaves, and thyme ; dust a small
quantity of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg over them,
cover them with olive oil, and let them soak for three or
four hours. Drain the oil from the fillets, cover them
well with the mixed herbs, wrap them in thickly -buttered
sheets of paper, fastening them securely to keep the herbs in,
and roast them in front of a clear fire. When cooked,
take the paper off the fillets and scrape off the herbs. Put
the herbs in a saucepan with some gravy, a squeeze of
lemon -juice, pepper, salt, and a lump of butter, and boil
it. Beat the yolk of an egg with a little warmed butter,
rub the fillets in it and then in grated breadcrumbs, giving
them a good coating, and brown them in a quick oven.
When cooked, put the fillets on a folded napkin or orna-
mental dish paper on a hot dish,, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve them with the sauce in a sauceboat.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, c tec., referred to, see under their special heads.
702
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
Roasted Loin of Veal — Saw the spine anil whatever hip-
hone remains from a fine, white, fresh, and fat loin of
Veal with the kidney. Season the loin with 1 b table-
spoonfuls of salt and 1 heaped teaspoonful of pepper,
and roll the flank part neatly over the kidney, tying it
with string. Have ready a lightly-buttered roasting-pan,
place the loin in it, pour in h wineglassful of water, dis-
tribute a few bits of butter over the meat, then cover its
entire length with a piece of well -buttered paper. Place
the pan in a moderate oven, and roast it for one-hour-and-
three quarters, meanwhile basting it frequently with its
own gravy. Take it out of the oven, untie it, and place
it on a hot-water dish (see Fig. 951). Add 3 table-
aux 951. Roasted Loin of Veal.
spoonfuls of broth to the gravy in the pan, skim otf the
fat, and reduce it to the consistency of half glaze. Strain
it through a sieve either over the roasted meat or into a
sauce-bowl, and serve immediately.
Roasted Loin of Veal d la Creme. — Prepare a loin of
Veal, and roast it in front of a clear fire. Half-an-hour
before it is cooked, baste it continually with cream, placing
a dish underneath to catch it as it drips oil'. When
lightly browned, put the Veal carefully on a hot dish.
Put the drippings from the Veal in a small saucepan,
with 1 teacupful of white sauce and a little more cream,
and stir it over the fire till boiling ; then pour it round
the Veal, garnish with slices of lemon, and serve.
Roasted Round of Veal. — Cut a slice of Veal out of the
largest diameter of the leg, remove the centre bone, and
fill the cavity with a little bread stuffing. Wrap the
meat in a sheet of buttered paper, fix it on the spit, and
roast it in front of a clear fire, basting it often. Half-an-
hour before the fillet is done, remove the paper, dust a
little salt over it, and let it brown nicely. When cooked,
remove the meat from the spit, glaze it, put it on a hot
dish, pour a little clear brown gravy over it, and serve
with a separate dish of vegetables.
Roasted Shoulder of Veal. — Remove the knuckle from a
shoulder of Veal, and roast the fillet in front of a clear
fire, basting it frequently. When cooked, put the Veal
on a hot dish, garnish it with slices of lemon, and serve
with a sauceboatful of oyster sauce.
Polled Veal (Roulade de Veau). — (1) Bone a loin of Veal
and trim it nicely. Prepare a stuffing with finely-minced
bacon and breadcrumbs, seasoning them Avith grated
lemon-peel, sweet herbs, pounded mace, salt and cayenne
pepper, and binding it with beaten egg. Spread the
mixture over the Veal, roll it, bind it up tightly to keep
it in shape, put it in a stewpan, lay a few slices of fat
bacon on the top, cover it with nicely-flavoured stock, and
steAv it gently for four hours. When cooked, move the
Veal from the fire, and let it partly cool in the stock ;
then drain it, put it between two dishes, place a weight
on the top, and leave it till quite cold. Remove the bind-
ings and brush it over with melted glaze. Spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a dish, put the
Veal on it, garnish it nicely with parsley, and serve.
(2) Cut the bones out of about 31b. of the best end of a
neck of Veal, beat the meat flat, and cover it thickly
with sweet herbs, chopped parsley, pepper, and salt ; lay
some thin slices of fat bacon on the top, roll the meat
round and bind it with broad tape to keep it in shape,
Veal — continued.
and roast in front of a clear quick fire for about one-hour-
and-a-half, basting it often. Put the bones and trim-
mings of the Veal in a saucepan with some bacon bones,
three onions, |lb. of gravy beef, and a little butter, and
fry for a few minutes over a quick fire; then pour in 1£
pints of water, and boil it till reduced to 1 pint, adding
half-an-hour after it is put on the fire, a bunch of thyme
and marjoram. Strain the gravy into another saucepan,
skim off the fat, and stir in 1 teaspoonful of cornflour
that has been mixed with a little water. Season with
salt and pepper, and boil it till reduced to \ pint. When
cooked and nicely browned, put the meat on a hob dish,
pour the gravy over it, put round some spinach that has
been prepared as for garnish, and serve.
(3) Take out the tendons and all the rib bones from a
breast of Veal, flatten and trim it, spread it all over
with forcemeat, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it,
roll it up tightly, and tie it ; then put it into a cloth, and
stew it for several hours in broth. Take it out, remove
the cloth and strings, dry and glaze it, and serve cold
with rich sauce.
(4) Take the bones from a small breast of Veal, and
spread over it a rich Veal stuffing ; over this lay four
hard-boiled eggs cut lengthwise into quarters, arranging
them in rows, and put green pickles between the rows ;
then roll the Veal up and sew it, put it into a cloth,
and bind it with tape. Put it into a saucepan, lay a
slice of ham over it, add a little whole pepper and some
strong stock, and let it stew in this for three hours. Have
ready some rich gravy, with a little lemon-juice and white
wine added to it the last thing, and boiled up in it.
Pour this boiling hot over the Veal when it is dished,
garnish with forcemeat balls and cut green pickles, and
serve.
Rolled Veal Steak.— Make a stuffing of 2oz. of breadcrumbs,
a little finely-chopped streaky salted pork, half an onion
finely chopped, and a little pepper and salt. Mix this
v eil together, and work it to a paste with a little beaten
egg. Take a tender Veal steak of medium thickness,
beat it flat, spread the stuffing over it, roll it up tight,
and bind it evenly with twine. Lay it in a pie-dish,
pour over it \ pint of boiling water, cover it with another
dish, and bake for about three-quarters-of -an -hour. Take off'
the cover, baste the steak with a little butter, shake a little
flour over it, and leave it in the oven till brown. Then
cut the twine in several places, remove it, and put the
steak on a hot dish. Thicken the gravy with a little
browned flour, and serve it in a sauce-tureen.
Scalloped Veal. — (1) Mince some cold roasted Veal, season
it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, moisten it well
with a few table-spoonfuls of cream, put it into a sauce-
pan, and stir it over the fire for a feAV minutes. Fill
some scallop shells with the Veal mixture, cover them
with grated breadcrumbs, put a few small bits of butter
in each, and brown them in an oven or under a sala
mander. Put the shells on a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish paper on a dish, and serve them.
(2) Butter a pie-dish, and put in a layer of finely-
minced cold Veal — either roasted or boiled will do — shake
a little salt and pepper over it, over this put a layer of very
fine breadcrumbs, put some little bits of butter over this,
and moisten with a little milk, and so on, alternately,
till the dish is full. Then moisten it Avell with a little
warm gravy or broth, spread over all a thick layer of
breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and mixed to a paste
with a beaten egg and a little milk, and over this stick
several little bits of butter. Turn a tin pan dov n over it
to keep in the steam, and bake for half-an-hour or three-
quarters-of-an-hour, according to size. Ten minutes before
taking it out of the oven, take the cover off it and let
it brown. Serve at once.
Scotch Veal Collops.— (1) Thinly slice some Veal cutlets,
put them into a frying-pan with a little boiling lard, and
fry them until lightly browned on all sides. Put the
collops in a stewpan with a few blanched truffles, morels,
and artichoke bottoms, some slices of sweetbread, and a
feAV egg balls, pour in some clear strong broth, and place
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
703
Veal — continued.
them over the fire. When boiling, move the stewpan to
the edge of the fire, and let the contents simmer until
tender, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. When
cooked, turn the collops and other ingredients on to a hot
dish, and serve.
(2) Cut some thin collops off the thin part of a leg of
Veal, season them with salt and grated nutmeg, and fry
them a nice brown on both sides, laying them on a hot
dish when they are done. Season J pint of good gravy
with ketchup, port wine, and walnut pickle to taste. Mix
a little flour in the pan the collops were fried in, pour
in the seasoned gravy, boil it up, pour it over the collops,
and serve.
(3) Cut some small slices, about 2in. in diameter and
a little more than Jin. thick, off the thick part of a leg
of Veal. Put about 2oz. of butter into a stewpan over
a gentle fire, and before the pan gets hot put in
the slices of Veal or collops ; turn them over in the
butter till it is a sort of thick white gravy, and let
them fry till sufficiently cooked, but do not let them
brown. Put them into a covered saucepan on the
hearth to keep warm till all are fried. Then add
to the gravy they were fried in 1 teaspoonful each of
caper liquor, ketchup, and lemon pickle, and a seasoning
of powdered mace, cayenne, and salt, thicken it with
flour and butter, and let it boil for five minutes ; add the
yolks of two eggs beaten up with J pint of cream, and
stir the gravy till it looks quite thick ; then put in the
collops, and shake the pan over the fire till they are
quite hot. Pour them on a dish over a few pickled
mushrooms, and serve hot.
(4) Cut some collops, not too thick, from the best part
of a leg of Veal, and lay over each a very thin slice of
bacon the size of the Veal, put a layer of forcemeat over
this, and season it with the smallest quantity of cayenne.
Roll them up tightly, fasten them with a very small
skewer, brush them over with egg, cover them with bread-
crumbs, and fry them in butter, taking care they do not
burn. When they are done, put 2oz. of butter rolled in flour
into tiie pan, pour in the strained juice of a lemon or ]
table -spoonful of lemon pickle, add pepper, salt, and a
very little pounded mace, also 1 breakfast-cupful of hot
water, and boil it up for a few minutes. Place the
collops on a dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with
slices of lemon, and serve very hot.
Spiced Veal. — Cut cold lean Veal, either baked or fried,
into pieces lin. square. Measure sufficient vinegar to
cover it, and make the vinegar scalding hot, adding to each
pint one dozen whole cloves, Jin. of stick cinnamon, ]
teaspoonful of salt, and a small red pepper, or a dozen
peppercorns. When the vinegar is hot, pour it and the
spices over the pieces of Veal, and let them stand in the
pickle for at least twenty four hours. It is then ready
for use, and is excellent served cold for luncheon or supper.
Stewed Breast of Veal. — (1) Blanch a breast of Veal, put it
in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, each
stuck with jiwo or three cloves, the peel of half a lemon, a
blade of mace, salt and pepper to taste, and 3oz. of butter.
Fry the Veal for two or three minutes, but without allowing
it to take colour, then pour in 1 pint of hot water, and
stew gently until tender. When cooked, remove the long
bones from the Veal and strain the liquor. Put loz. of
butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour in a stewpan, and
mix them over the fire ; then stir in the Veal stock, add
1 teacupful of thick cream, and stir it over the fire until
boiling; next move the stewpan to the side of the fire,
Veal — continued.
and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs, the juice of
half a lemon, and some oysters that have been blanched
in their own liquor. Place the Veal on a hot dish, pour
the sauce over it, garnish with fried oysters and slices of
lemon (see Fig 952), and serve.
(2) Bone a breast of Veal, cut it in two, lay the two
pieces one on top of the other in a stewpan, cover
it with stock made from Veal bones and h pint of white
wine, and put in with it two anchovies, a blade of mace,
two or three cloves, a little whole pepper, and a small
quantity of salt. Put the stewpan over the fire and let
the contents stew gently. When the Veal is done enough,
take it out of the stewpan and put it on a hot dish
where it will keep warm. Strain the gravy, and stir in
a thickening of butter and flour, keep stirring it, and let
the flour boil for ten minutes ; stir in a few oysters then,
and when they are quite hot pour the gravy over the
Veal, and serve hot.
(3) Cut out the blade-bone from a breast of Veal, stuff
forcemeat into the place where the bone was taken from,
sew the veal up to keep the forcemeat in its place, and
half roast it. With the bones and trimmings make lqt.
of gravy, boiling with them a large onion, a bunch of
parsley, a bit of lemon-peel, two blades of mace, some
whole pepper, and a litrie salt. When sufficiently boiled,
strain the gravy, and put it over the fire again with a
piece of butter rolled in flour, and stir it till it boils ; then
put into it the half -roasted Veal and 1 table-spoonful of
vinegar, and let it stew for about two hours. A few
minutes before taking it from the fire, add 1 wineglassful
of white wine and 1 table -spoonful of lemon pickle. Serve
the Veal garnished with fried forcemeat balls.
(4) Half roast the Veal, browning it nicely, then put it
in a stewpan with a few small mushrooms, a shallot, a
blade of mace, three cloves, and a little walnut pickle ;
add a little oyster liquor and some good gravy, just sufti
cient to stew it in, and let it stew for an-hour-and-a-half ;
then add a very little anchovy liquor, and let the Veal
stew half -an -hour longer. Serve garnished with parsley
and slices of lemon.
(5) Cut a breast of Veal in small pieces, put it over a
gentle fire in a stewpan, together with a bunch of sweet
herbs, a rasher of lean bacon nicely trimmed, an onion
peeled, a dozen black peppercorns, a blade of mace, and
salt to taste ; pour over it sufficient cold water to barely
cover it, and let it stew till the Veal is done. Boil 1
pint of peas and a head of lettuce, and when the Veal is
sufficiently cooked, take it from the stewpan, strain the
gravy, and put it back in the stewpan with the peas, the
lettuce, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and
let it stew for ten minutes ; then stir in the beaten yolks
of two eggs, put in the Veal again, let it warm for a
minute or two, pour all into a hot dish, and serve.
(6) Take out the short bones or gristles of a breast of
Veal, put the meat into a stewpan with a rasher of ham,
a bunch of parsley, a little whole pepper, a little salt,
and an onion stuck with a clove or two ; then add a
little white stock, sufficient to stew the meat, and let it
simmer for nearly two hours. When the meat is tender,
take it out, strain the gravy, and put it back over the
fire with It pints of green peas; when they are boiled, put
the Veal in again, and let all stew together for twenty
minutes. Then place the meat in the centre of a hot
dish, and pour the peas and gravy round it.
Stewed Breast of Veal a la Chipolata. — The same as for
Stewed Breast op Veal a la Nantaise, pouring 1
pint of hot Chipolata on the dish, and placing the breast
of Veal on top.
Stewed Breast of Veal a la Milaisienne. — The same as
for Stewed Breast of Veal a la Nantaise, substi-
tuting six small stuffed cabbages for the other garnishing.
Stewed Breast of Veal a la Nantaise. — Trim 31b. of the
breast of Veal, make a few incisions on the top, and tie
it round firmly with string. Lay it in a deep saute pan
with a piece of pork-skin cut up, a carrot, and a cut-up
onion, and cover with a buttered paper; when it begins
to colour, after five minutes’ cooking, moisten it gentiy
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
704
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
with 1 pint of water or hrotli. Baste as frequently as
possible, and let it cook one hour. Put it on a dish,
strain over the sauce, garnish with six stuffed lettuce-
heads and a few croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Stewed Breast of Veal with Sorrel. — Prepared and
cooked the same as for Stewed Breast of Veal a la
Nantaise, substituting 1 pint of cooked hot sorrel for the
other garnishing.
Stewed Breast of Veal with Turnips. — Cut half a breast
of Veal into small pieces. Put |lb. of butter into a
saucepan with 3 table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir it over
the fire for a few minutes; then put in the pieces of Veal,
and fry them till the meat has well set. Take the stew-
pan off the fire, drain off the fat, pour in gradually
sufficient broth and white wine mixed in equal quan-
tities to cover the meat, put in a large onion stuck with
three or four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little
pepper. Put the saucepan on the fire till the liquor
commences to boil, then move it to the side, and let it
simmer. Peel some turnips, cut them into balls with a
vegetable cutter, and blanch them for a few minutes ;
then drain them, put them in a frying-pan with a lump
of butter, and fry them till lightly coloured, seasoning
them with a little pepper, salt, and a pinch of sugar.
Drain all the fat off the turnips, put them in with the
meat, and finish cooking. When cooked, skim the fat off
the stew, turn it on to a hot dish, and serve it.
Stewed Chump of Veal with Cauliflower. — Bone a chump
of Veal, tie it to its original shape, put it in a saucepan
with h pint of Veal stock, and boil it quickly till the
liquor is reduced to glaze. Pour lqt. of mirepoix in with
the Veal, and keep it boiling gently by the side of the
fire till the meat is tender. Divide some cauliflowers
into small sprays, blanch them in boiling water for five
minutes, then refresh them in cold water, drain them,
put them in a saucepan with a small lump of butter, a
little salt, and sufficient water to cover them. Boil the
cauliflowers, keeping them rather under done, so that they
may not break in dishing up. When cooked, glaze the
meat, put it on a hot dish, and garnish it with the
cauliflowers. Skim the fat off the gravy, boil it till some-
what reduced, then strain it through a fine bail' sieve,
and serve it in a sauceboat with the meat.
Stewed Fillet of Veal. — (1) Bone a fillet of Veal, fill the
cavity with Veal stuffing, then lard the fillet and half
roast it. Put it into a stewpan with 2qts. of white stock,
1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, and 1 teaspoonful of
lemon pickle, and let it simmer very gently till sufficiently
cooked. Strain the gravy, then thicken it with butter
rolled in Hour, add a few pickled mushrooms and a little
salt and cayenne, and pour it boiling over the Veal on
the dish. Have ready two or three dozen forcemeat balls
to put round and on top of it, lay some slices of lemon
round, and serve.
(2) Stuff a fillet of Veal in precisely the same way as
for roasting, put it into a saucepan or stewpan with 1
pint of stock or water, a strip of lemon peel, a blade of
mace, a seasoning of white pepper and salt, and a very
little grated nutmeg, and let it stew gently, keeping the
pan tightly covered for an-hour-aiul a- half. Take the Veal out
then and strain the gravy. Put the strained gravy back
over the fire with two dozen small oysters, a small lump
of butter well rolled in flour, and h pint of white wine,
put the meat in again, cover the pan closely, and let it
stew for half -an hour. Just before taking it from the
fire, stir in l pint of cream, and let it get quite hot ;
then take the Veal out, lay it on a hot dish, pour the
gravy, which should be pretty thick, over it, and serve.
(3) Stuff a fillet of Veal, lay it on a baking-dish, pour
a little stock round it, and bake it until half cooked.
When ready, put the Veal in a stewpan with its stock,
some gravy, and a small quantity of Madeira, and finish
cooking it. When quite cooked, strain the liquor off the
Veal into a smaller saucepan, skim it, stir in smoothly 1
table-spoonful of flour, also mix in 1 table -spoonful of
ketchup and the juice of one lemon, and season to taste
with salt and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Stir
V eal — continued.
the sauce over the fire until boiling and thickened. Place
the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce round it, and
serve.
Stewed Knuckle of Veal. — (1) Take a knuckle of Veal,
break the bone well in two or three places, put it into a
saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs, eight shallots, a
small quantity of whole black pepper, a blade or two of
mace, and salt to taste, pour over it 5 pints of water, put it
over the fire, and let it boil gently till the water is reduced
to 2i pints. Take out the meat then, strain the gravy, stir
into it 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, stir it over the fire till
it boils, and boil it for ten minutes, stirring frequently.
Then put back into the gravy the best part of the meat,
cut nicely from the bone, add a very little cayenne,
lemon juice to taste, and two glasses of Madeira wine, and
let all get quite hot. Garnish with sippets of toast,
slices of lemon, and piles of forcemeat balls (see Fig. 953),
and serve.
(2) Line a saucepan with pieces of fat and sliced onions.
Saw the Veal bones just above the knuckle joints, put
them in the saucepan with lib. of streaky bacon divided into
halves and blanched, three small carrots, and a turnip
cut into halves ; add a bunch of sweet herbs, cloves,
peppercorns and salt. Pour ^ pint of clear broth over the
above ingredients, and boil it till reduced to half glaze ;
then pour in broth to three- parts their height, and boil
it for a few minutes ; then move the saucepan to the side
of the fire, and let it boil slowly till the vegetables are
tender. Blanch and braise ten or twelve large lettuces
and a cabbage, and glaze about thirty small onions.
When the knuckles are cooked, put them by the side of
each other on a hot oblong-shaped dish, cut the cabbage
in quarters, and put it round them, with the lettuces and
the rest of the vegetables. Skim the fat off the cooking
stock, strain it through a line wire sieve into another
saucepan, mix a little clear gravy with it, and boil it
up again. Pour the sauce over the meat, and serve.
Stewed Knuckle of Veal with Rice.— Break the shank
bone and thoroughly wash a knuckle of Veal, put it in
a saucepan, cover it with water, add a little salt, and
put it over a slow fire. When the water boils, move the
saucepan to the side of the fire, skim it, and let it
simmer gently for about three-quarters of -an hour. At the end
of that time, put an onion, two blades of mace, and -|lb.
of well-washed rice in with the Veal, and cook it gently
for two hours longer, or more if a very large joint.
When cooked, put the Veal on a hot dish, pour the rice
over it, garnish it with plain boiled vegetables, and serve
it with a sauceboatful of parsley and butter sauce, with
a piece of boiled bacon on a separate dish.
Stewed Larded Veal Cutlets with Mushrooms. — Lard
all the cutlets on one side with fillets of bacon, put them
side by side in a stewpan, the bottom of which has been
covered with finely-chopped carrots and onions, season them
with salt, and pour in sufficient, clear broth to cover them.
Put the lid on the stewpan, stand it over a brisk fire,
and boil the liquor till reduced to one- third of its original
quantity ; then stand the stewpan at the side of the tire,
and cook the cutlets slowly for tliree-quarters-of-an-hour.
When cooked, glaze the cutlets with a paste-brush. Pass
the cooking stock through a fine hair sieve, skim off the
fat, mix with the stock a little white sauce that has
been reduced with trimmings of mushrooms, and boil it
up again. Pour it on to a hot dish, arrange the cutlets
in a circle on it, fill the centre with a mushroom puree,
and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
705
V eal — continued.
Stewed Loin of Veal. — The chump end of a loin of Veal
is the best part to stew. Put it when well floured into
a saucepan with a little butter that has been browned
over the fire, and brown the Veal in it ; when a good
colour, pour in enough Veal broth to half cover it, put
in two carrots cut in pieces, an onion, a little parsley,
and a small bunch of sweet herbs, and stew for two-hours-
and-a-half. Turn it when half done, and when quite
done, take it out. Thicken the broth, season it, pour
over the Veal, and serve.
Stewed Neck of Veal. — Trim a neck of Veal, soak it in
tepid water for a short time, then put it for ten minutes
in boiling water. Put |lb. of butter in a stewpan with
2oz. of flour, and stir it over the fire till well mixed ;
then put in the Veal, two or three onions, carrots and
parsnips, a bunch of parsley, a clove of garlic, two
cloves, a little salt and pepper, and moisten it with a
little water. Cook the meat gently till tender, then take
it out and put it on a hot dish. Boil the cooking liquor
till reduced to a creamy thickness, then strain it through
a silk or fine hair sieve. Mix 1 table spoonful of chopped
gherkins and 1 teaspoonful of vinegar with the sauce,
and serve it in a sauceboat with the Veal.
Stewed Noix of Veal. — Saw the knuckle off a leg of Veal,
lay the fillet on the table, cut through the bone in the
centre under the udder until the skin is cut through,
then take out the bone, and lay out the meat. There
will be separate pieces of meat, the largest of which is the
noix. Cut it out by pressing the hand upon it, and then
with a sharp knife cut down close to the skin, separa-
ting it from the skin until it comes to the udder ; then
take the piece of meat out, lay it on the table, the
best side down, and beat it well. Trim the noix neatly
and lard it with thin strips of fat bacon. Cut off the
udder, and secure it to the side of the noix. Line a flat
stewpan with pieces of bacon anil two sliced onions, put
in the Veal, with a bunch of sweet herbs and two bay-
leaves, and pour in 2 breakfast-cupfuls of clear broth. Put
the stewpan in a moderate oven, and cook the contents
for three hours, basting the meat occasionally with some
of its own cooking liquor. Should all the moisture become
absorbed, a small quantity of water may be added. When
cooked, take the Veal out of the stewpan, glaze it, and
brown it lightly over with a salamander. Lay it on a hot
dish and keep it hot while the sauce is being prepared.
Strain the cooking gravy through a fine hair sieve into a
small saucepan, season it with pepper, and boil it up.
Then pour the gravy over the noix, and serve.
Stewed Noix of Veal with Mushrooms.— Steep the noix
and blanch them. Cut them into oval-shaped pieces, put
them in a stewpan with sufficient broth and mirepoix to
cover them, and let them simmer gently till cooked.
Drain the noix and press them between two plates tili
cold. Skim the fat off the cooking liquor, strain it
through a fine hair sieve, and boil it till reduced to a
thick consistency. Trim off any meat that may adhere to
the noix, put them in the sauce, and warm them again.
Glaze them, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish” fill
the centre with sliced mushrooms that have been mixed
with a little German sauce, and serve them with a sauce-
boatful of the same. Or the noix may be garnished with
sliced truffles, and served with a sauceboatful of Madeira
sauce.
Stewed Tendons of Veal with Chestnut Puree.— Cut
the tendons into oyster shapes, steep them in cold water
to disgorge their blood, and when very white blanch them
well and leave them till cold. Trim the tendons to a
nice shape, put them in a stewpan with some layers of
bacon, a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, and a few sprigs
of thyme, season them with salt and pepper, and
baste them with a small quantity of good broth.
Stew the tendons _ very gently. When cooked, drain
them, put them in a deep frying-pan with a piece
of glaze, and stir them over the fire until well coated.
When ready, arrange the tendons in a circle, alternating
them with croutons of fried and glazed bread, put a
puree of chestnuts in the centre, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
VOL. II.
V eal — continued.
Stewed Tendons of Veal in Chipolata. — Set the tendons
to disgorge the blood, then blanch them and leave them
till cool. When cold, trim them to a nice shape, wrap
them in slices of fat bacon, and put them in a stewpan.
Put a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, and a few sprigs of
freshly-gathered thyme in with the tendons, add broth
to their height, season it with salt and pepper, and stew
them very gently for four hours. Prepare the Chipolata as
follows : Peel and boil some chestnuts till soft, then drain
them. Twist some sausages to make them very short,
prick them, put them in a saute -pan, and cook them
in the oven. When the sausages are done, drain off
the fat, and put in with them some small stewed onions,
some pieces of cooked bacon cut into cork shaped pieces,
and some mushrooms, and stew the whole in some sauce
tournee for two or three minutes. When done, skim the
fat off the sauce, thicken it, and add the chestnuts.
When the tendons are cooked, drain them, put them
into a frying-pan with a small quantity of glaze, and
toss them about over the fire. When glazed, arrange
the tendons in a circle on a hot dish, with some nicely
browned croutons of fried bread, turn the Chipolata in
the middle, at the same time pouring a little sauce over
the tendons, and serve.
Stewed Tendons of Veal with Green Peas. — (1) Cut the
best part of the tendons into nice equal-sized pieces, and
blanch them for ten minutes in boiling water ; then
drain them, put them in a stewpan with a lump of
butter, and fry them over a clear fire for a few minutes.
Put a bunch of sweet herbs and some salt and pepper in
with the tendons, cover them with stock, and boil them
gently till cooked. Boil some fresh green peas in stock
till tender. When the tendons are cooked, remove the
bunch of herbs, drain the peas, mix all together, turn
them on to a hot dish, and serve.
(2) Cut the tendons from two breasts of Veal, trim them
into oval-shaped pieces 21>-in. long, and blanch them. Drain
them, put them in a stewpan, cover them with equal
quantities of broth and mirepoix, and let them simmer
gently till tender. Drain the tendons and press them
between two plates till cold. Strain the cooking liquor,
skim off all the fat, and boil it till reduced. When the
tendons are cold, trim off any meat that is on them, put
them in the reduced gravy, and warm them up again.
Fix a paste croustade in the centre of r dish, fill it
with cooked green peas, arrange the tendons round the
croustade, pour a little of the gravy over them and the
remainder in a sauceboat, and serve.
Stewed Tendons of Veal with White Sauce. — Blanch
some tendons of Veal that have been cut into small
pieces, put them in a stewpan with some young white
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little flour, salt and
pepper, and some water, and stew over a slow fire till
cooked ; then move them to the side ; add 2oz. of butter,
1 teaspoonful of vinegar, a little grated nutmeg, and
sufficient beaten yolks of eggs to thicken. Stir the sauce
by the side of the fire till thick, take out the bunch of
herbs, turn all on to a hot dish, and serve.
Stewed Veal. — (1) Put 2oz. of butter and 2 table spoonfuls,
of flour in a stewpan, and stir it over the fire till brown ;
then put in the Veal, cut into pieces, and fry it a little.
Put in some young onions, button mushrooms, morels,
young carrots, peas, a bunch of thyme and laurel -leaves,
and salt and pepper to taste, and moisten with a little
warm water. Boil the Veal gently till cooked, then turn
the stew on to a hot dish, and serve at once.
(2) Cut the Veal into small equal-sized pieces, put
them in a saucepan with a lump of salt and sufficient
water to cover them, and place it over the fire till
boiling. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, skim
the liquor, and let it simmer till the meat is nearly
cooked ; then put in a handful of picked parsley. When
the meat is quite tender, squeeze in the juice of one
lemon, turn the stew on to a hot dish, and serve.
Stewed Veal a la Bourgeoise. — Cook in loz. of butter 31b.
of lean Veal cut in pieces and six small onions. After
cooking ten minutes, add 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
2 z
706
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V eal — continued.
moisten with lqt. of white broth. Stir well, and season
with 1 heaped table-spoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of
pepper, and A- wineglassful of red wine. Add two carrots
cut into square pieces, loz. of salt pork cut up* into
pieces, and a bouquet garni. Cook for forty minutes
longer, remove the bouquet, and serve very hot.
Stewed Veal a la Chasseur. — Prepare and cook the same as
for Stewed Veal a la Bolrgeoise, substituting for the
garnishing twelve minced mushrooms, sixteen quenelles
of godiveau, and one clove of garlic, three minutes before
serving. Serve with six croutons of fried bread round the
disli for garnish.
Stewed Veal a la Grecque. — Place 211). of lean Veal cut
in pieces into a stewpan, with 2oz. of butter and one cut-
up onion, and cook for ten minutes, adding 2 table-
spoonfuls of Hour. Moisten with lqt. of white broth and
1 gill of tomato sauce. Add 1 heaped table-spoonful of
salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, A teaspoonful of nutmeg,
a bouquet garni, three white roots of celery cut into
halves, and eighteen raw okras paved whole. Cook for thirty
minutes longer, and serve with the dish nicely decorated
with the garnishing.
Stewed Veal a la Marengo. — Cut 31b. of lean Veal into
pieces, and cook them in a stewpan with 1 gill of oil,
a cut-up onion or two shallots, and 2oz. of salt pork
also cut up. Toss them occasionally, and when well
browned, which should take about ten minutes, dredge in
2 table-spoonfuls of Hour, stirring well. Moisten with lqt.
of white broth and 1 gill of tomato sauce, and season with
1 table-spoonful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of pepper, adding
a crushed clove of garlic and a bouquet garni. Cook for
forty minutes, and serve with croutons of fried bread for
garnish, and a little chopped parsley sprinkled over.
Stewed Veal a la Portugaise. — Place 2lb. of lean Veal cut
in pieces into a stewpan, with 2oz. of butter and one cut-up
onion, and reduce for ten minutes, adding 2 table-spoonfuls
of flour. Moisten with lqt. of white broth and 1 gill of
tomato sauce. Add three stuffed tomatoes and three timbales
of cooked rice. Cook for thirty minutes, and serve with the
dish decorated with the garnishing.
Stewed Veal a la Provencale. — Cut into pieces 31b. of lean
Veal from the breast or shoulder, and place them in a stew-
pan with loz. of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and
one chopped onion. Cook them for ten minutes, stirring occa-
sionally ; add 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, stir again, and moisten
with lqt. of white broth. Season with 1 heaped table-
spoonful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of pepper, and add six
minced mushrooms, three crushed cloves of garlic, and a
bouquet garni. Cook for forty minutes, and serve on a hot
dish, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over it.
Stewed Veal a la Solferino. — Cook 31b. of Veal, cut into
pieces from the breast or shoulder, in loz. of butter with six
small onions. When cooked for ten minutes, add 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, and moisten with lqt. of white broth and
1 gill of tomato sauce, seasoning with 1 table-spoonful of salt
and 1 teaspoonful of pepper. Stir well together until it
reaches boiling-point, then add two carrots and two turnips,
cut out with a vegetable scoop into various shapes, and a
bouquet garni. Cook for forty minutes longer, and serve.
Any kind of vegetables in season can be added.
Stewed Veal Chop. — Saw the chine-bone off a large neck
chop, put it in a saute -pan with a pat of butter weighing
about 1 oz., and fry it for five or six minutes on each side.
Drain the chop, put it in a saucepan with 1 pint of broth,
and boil it up ; then put in about eighteen or twenty
pieces of carrots that have been peeled and turned to
a cork shape, one large onion stuck with three cloves, and
season with pepper and salt. Keep the broth boiling gently
by the side of the fire till the meat and carrots are tender.
When cooked, put the meat on a hot dish, garnish with the
carrots, strain the cooking liquor through a fine sieve over
it, and serve.
Stewed Veal Cutlets. — Trim the cutlets and fry them to a
pale brown, but do not let them get crisp ; then put them
into a saucepan, close the lid, and put them, not over the
Veal — continued.
fire, but where they will keep warm without cooking. Into
another saucepan put \ pint of tomato sauce and 2 table-
spoonfuls of gravy. Peel and cut into slices one small
onion, and fry them in the hot fat in which the cutlets were
done ; when evenly browned, add them with the fat to the
gravy, and season with pepper and salt to taste, and a bunch
of sweet herbs. Let this come to a boil, then pour it over
the cutlets in the saucepan, cover it over, put it by the side
of the fire, and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Serve
hot.
Stewed Veal with Oyster Plant.— Prepare and cook the
same as for Stewed Veal a la Bourgeo:se, substituting
for the garnishing one bunch of well-cleaned raw oyster
plant, cut into pieces, forty minutes before serving.
Stewed Veal with Peas. — The same as for Stewed Veal
A LA Bourgeoise, adding 1 pint of fresh peas in place of
carrots thirty minutes before serving. Should green peas be
out of season, use 1 pint of canned peas five minutes before
serving.
Stuffed Shoulder of Veal with Aspic. — Remove the knuckle
and bone entirely from a shoulder of Veal, but take care
not to pierce the skin. Spread the shoulder, skin downwards,
on a table, and trim off the meat at the thickest part, thus
making it an even thickness. Chop the trimmings with 21b.
of lean Veal and 211). of fat bacon, and season with grated
nutmeg, salt, and pepper ; then put the mixture into a
mortar and pound all together. Cut the rind off Alb. of fat
bacon, and put it on one side ; then cut the bacon into large
squares, and mix with the forcemeat. Dust a little salt anil
pepper over the shoulder, cover it with a thick layer of
forcemeat, fold the shoulder over in such a way as to entirely
cover the forcemeat, roll it round in a cloth, and tie it at
both ends with string, also tying some string round the middle
to keep it in shape. Bone three calf’s feet, blanch them
with the rind of the bacon, put them in an oval stewpan,
also the bones broken in pieces ; add two or three small
carrots, three onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, three
cloves, 2 large table-spoonfuls of salt, and 1 table-spoonful of
pepper. Four in 4qts. of water and 1 teacupful of brandy,
and put in the shoulder. When boiling, skim the liquor,
then move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for
four hours. At the end of that time drain the shoulder,
take the cloth off, rinse it in hot water, then tie it on again.
Press the shoulder between two baking-sheets with a heavy
weight on the top till cold. Skim all the fat off the cooking-
stock, strain it into a basin through a broth napkin, and
leave it till set to a jelly. When cold, take the cloth off the
shoulder, put it on a dish, garnish it with the jelly cut into
croutons, or else chopped, and serve.
Tendons of Veal a la Poulette. — Cut the tendons off a
breast of Veal into small round pieces about Ain. thick,
put them in a basin, cover them with warm water, and
let them soak for an hour. At the end of that time put
the tendons in boiling water with a little salt, leave
them for a few minutes, then refresh them in cold water.
Put the blanched tendons in a saucepan, with a bunch
of thyme and parsley, a bay-leaf, and one large onion
stuck with two or three cloves, cover the tendons with
cold water, add a lump of salt, and boil them for an-liour-
and-a-half, skimming the liquor occasionally. Put a pat
of butter in a saucepan with 1 teaspoonful of flour, and
stir it over the fire till well mixed ; then, the tendons
being done, strain their cooking liquor into the saucepan
with the butter, and stir it till the flour is cooked. Put
the tendons in the gravy and boil them for fifteen
minutes. Thicken the sauce with a liaison of beaten
yolks of eggs, turn it on to a hot dish with the tendons,
garnish them with cooked mushrooms, and serve.
Terrine of Veal. — Trim a white cushion of Veal, lard it
with ham and raw truffles, and dust it well with pepper,
salt, and spices. Chop the trimmings of the Veal with an
equal quantity of lean fresh pork, and mix with them an
equal quantity of chopped fresh bacon and the trimmings
of the truffles. Pound the mixture in a mortar, pass it
through a fine hair sieve into a basin, season it with salt
and pepper, and mix with it 3 or 4 table -spoonfuls of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, <fcc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
707
V eal — continued.
Madeira. Line a pie-terrine with thin layers of bacon, put
a layer of prepared forcemeat at the bottom of it, then
put in the larded cushion of Veal, and surround and
cover it with the forcemeat, building it on the top in a
dome like shape. Stand the terrine in a baking-dish and
put it in a moderate oven. Baste the terrine often, and
in an hour’s time pour a little warm water in the pan,
and bake it an-hour-and-a-half longer. When cooked,
take the terrine out of the oven, leave it for half-an-hour,
then put a light weight on the top, and leave it till cool.
Take the top off the terrine, take the meat out, cut it
in slices, and put it back again. Stand the terrine on a
round dish, garnish it with croutons of aspic jelly, and serve.
Timbales of Veal. — (1) Trim off all the skin from a fillet of
Veal, cut the meat into small pieces, put them in a
mortar, and pound them. Put six chickens’ livers in a fry
ing pan with some bacon fat, and fry them. Drain the
livers, pound them, mix them with the pounded Veal,
season with mixed spices, pepper, and salt, and pass it
through a fine hair sieve ; then mix with it 5 table-
spoonfuls of rather coarsely chopped cooked ham. Butter
some small dariole-moulds, line them with a rich short-paste,
and fill them with the mixture. Bake the darioles for about
twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven, then take them
out, and level the contents off to the same height as the
moulds. Take the timbales out of the moulds, pour a
little thick sauce in them, cover with some lids of puff
paste that have been baked by themselves, arrange them
on a hot dish covered by a lace-edged paper (See Fig. 954),
and serve.
(2) Mince some cold cooked Veal, put it into a sauce
pan, moisten it with a few table-spoonfuls of bechamel
sauce, and let it heat gradually at the edge of the fire.
Make some pancake battqr without flavouring or sugar,
and fry it in butter the same as pancakes. Butter well
the interior of an oval-sliaped mould, and line it at the
bottom and all round the sides with pancakes. Spread
some of the pancakes with the mince, roll them up, lay
them closely in the mould, and cover the whole with a
pancake. Place the moirld in a moderate oven, keeping
it in position by placing ashes round it, and bake for
half -an hour. Meanwhile prepare a small quantity of rich
well flavoured gravy. When ready, turn the timbale out
of the mould on to a hot dish, pour the gravy round it,
and serve. This is a very good way of warming up cold
Veal.
Veal a la Barbarie. — Cut some large thick slices of Veal
from the cushion, and stud them with truffles. Cook them
slowly in a saute -pan with butter, dust with salt and
cayenne pepper, and serve with Barbary sauce.
Veal a la Casserole. — Cut 41b. of Veal about 3in. thick off
the fillet, roll it up, bind it round with tape, rub it over
with flour, put it in a stewpan with a small piece of
butter, and fry it till nicely browned all over. Pour J
pint of rich gravy in with the Veal, season it with salt
and pepper, put the lid on the stewpan, and cook the
contents slowly for four hours. When cooked, take the
Veal up, put it on a hot dish, first removing the tape,
and keep it hot. Boil the cooking liquor quickly till
stiffly reduced, then pour it over the meat, and serve.
Veal Farces.— See Forcemeats and Stuffing, and various
receipts for preparing Veal in which stuffing is used.
Veal a lTfcalieiine. — Boil -£ pint of milk, with an onion
and a bay leaf, for a quarter-of -an-hour ; then remove the i
V eal — continued.
bay-leaf, and pour the boiling milk over a heaped break
fast-cupful of grated breadcrumbs. Finely chop lib. of
raw Veal and pound it in a mortar, mixing with it a
small quantity of cold cooked fat ; next mix in the soaked
crumbs, and pass the mixture through a coarse sieve.
Divide it into equal portions, which mould into rolls
with flour. Procure as many small pieces of cloth as
there are rolls, wring them out in boiling water, flour
them, tie a roll in each, put them into a saucepan of
boiling water, and boil them from ten to fifteen minutes.
When cooked, drain the rolls, remove the cloths, place
them on a hot dish, pour some nicely flavoured brown
gravy round them, and serve.
Veal a la Polonaise. — Put about 4lb. of fillet of Veal on
a talile, and beat it until quite soft with a heavy rolling-
pin. Make several holes in the Veal, fill them with fillets
of fat bacon and fillets of sardines, rub the meat over
with a clove of garlic and a small quantity of grated
lemon peel, dust it with salt and pepper, roll it up tightly,
and secure it with twine ; then baste it with a few table-
spoonfuls of warmed butter, and cook it in a stewpan,
basting occasionally with butter and milk. Turn the Veal
until it is nicely browned all over, then put the lid on
the stewpan, and leave it at the side of the fire until the
moisture of the gravy is reduced. When done, take the
Veal out of the stewpan, let it stand until cold, and then
remove the twine. Bet the meat on a dish that has been
spread with a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper,
garnish it with parsley, and serve. The meat will take
at least two hours to cook.
Veal Birds or Mock Pigeons. — (1) Take a loin piece of
Veal, cut off some thin slices, remove the fat, skin, and
bone, beat them well until Jin. thick, and cut them into
pieces 4in. by 24in. For every slice take a piece of fat
bacon about lin. square. Cut up the bacon and trimmings
very fine. Take half the bulk of cracker- or bread-crumbs
that there is chopped Veal, and season with onion, thyme,
cayenne, lemon, salt, and pepper. Mix them together, and
moisten with an egg and a little boiling water. Put this
mixture over the pieces of meat, not quite to the edge,
roll them up, and tie them round with string ; sprinkle
over a little flour, salt, and pepper, put them into a fry-
ing pan of boiling butter, and fry till they are of a light
brown, taking care not to burn them. Pour a little cream
over them, and let them simmer for twenty minutes
longer, when they should be tender. When done, take
them out, remove the string, and put them on round
slices of toast, laid on a dish. Pour some more cream
over them, and garnish with quarters or slices of lemon
and small triangular shaped pieces of toast (see Fig. 955).
If the Veal is rather hard, dip it into olive oil before
spreading with the onion mixture.
(2) Make some forcemeat of finely-chopped pork and sifted
breadcrumbs, seasoning it to taste. Take three or four
Veal cutlets, and if there is any bone in them cut it out.
Spread a thick layer of the forcemeat over each cutlet,
and roll each up separately and tightly, tying them into
shape with line twine. Lay them in a baking-tin, pour
over them sufficient cold water to half cover them, turn
another tin over them, put them in the oven, and bake
from forty-five minutes to an hour, according to size.
Take a calf’s sweetbread, boil it a quarter of an hour, then
plunge it into very cold water to blanch it ; when it is "well
cooled, cut it into small square pieces, put it over the fire
in l pint of strong brown gravy, and let it gently simmer.
Peel and chop small J pint of mushrooms, fry them in
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, sec under their special heads.
708
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
butter together with a small quantity of chopped onions,
and add them to the sweetbreads in the gravy. Chop up
a dozen oysters, and season them with salt and pepper.
When the pigeons are thoroughly done, uncover them,
baste them well with butter, and leave them in the oven
to brown. Put them on a hot dish, cut the twine, and
take it off carefully, without injuring the shape of the
pigeons. Let the gravy they were roasted in boil up
quickly, thicken it with browned Hour, and pour it into
the saucepan with the sweetbreads, mushrooms, &c., and
let it come to a good boil ; add 1 glass of wine,
then take it from the fire and stir in the chopped
oysters, stirring it well over the fire for half a minute
without letting it boil. Pour a few spoonfuls of the
thickest part of this gravy over the pigeons, turn the rest
into a sauce-tureen, and serve.
(3) Take two cutlets from a fillet of Veal, remove the
pieces of bone from the centre, and beat the cutlets flat.
Make a stuffing of fine breadcrumbs, a little minced bacon
or ham, pepper, salt, and ketchup to taste, and a very
little chopped parsley and thyme, mixed well together and
made into a paste with some beaten egg. Spread half of
this on each cutlet, roll them up separately into oblong
rolls, bind them firmly into shape with string, lay them
in a deep dish, and pour over them 1 pint of stock or
gravy ; cover them with another dish, and bake them two
hours, basting them now and then with the gravy. Then
put them on a hot dish and carefully remove the string,
so as not to spoil the shape. Thicken the gravy with
browned flour, season it to taste with ketchup, pepper,
and salt, and let it boil a few minutes ; then pour a
little over the pigeons, and send the remainder to table in
a sauce-tureen.
Veal Broth. — (1) Put 41b. or 5lb. of knuckle of Veal into a
saucepan with 3qts. of water, two blades of mace, one
onion, a little parsley, and a head of celery, cut into pieces,
seasoning with pepper and salt. When boiling, move the
saucepan a little to the side, and keep the water simmer-
ing till reduced one-third. Strain the broth, mix with it a
little well-boiled rice or vermicelli, and serve.
(2) Put 41b. or 5lb. of scrag of Veal, cut into pieces, in a
saucepan, pour in 3qts. of water, and stand it over the fire.
When boiling, skim the liquor, put in an onion, a turnip,
three blades of mace, anil a little salt, move the saucepan
to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer for two
hours. Strain the broth through a fine hair sieve, put in
it 1 teacupful of well boiled rice, boil it up again, then
pour it in a soup-tureen, and serve.
(3) Put into a covered saucepan 1 lb. of the lean parts
of Veal, with an equal quantity of bones and cartilage,
and 2qts. of cold water, adding a little salt, an onion, and
the heart of a lettuce pulled to pieces. Boil up, skim, and
reduce.
Veal Cake or Fain. — -(1) Finely chop 21b. of Veal with
4oz. of pork, mix them together with 1 breakfast-cupful
of finely -grated breadcrumbs, season to taste with salt,
black pepper, and small quantities of cayenne pepper and
pounded cloves, and bind the whole together with beaten
eggs. Butter a mould, press the mixture tightly in it, and
tie a sheet of buttered paper over the top. Stand the mould
in a stewpan with boiling water to three parts its height,
and steam it for an hour. Care must be taken not to let
the water enter at the top of the mould. At the end of
that time, take the mould out of the water, and stand
it in the larder until cold. When ready to serve, turn
the cake out of the mould on to a dish with a stand,
and garnish it with aspic jelly (see Fig. 956).
(2) Butter a pie-dish well, line it with slices of hard-
boiled eggs, put at the bottom a layer of slices of cold
Veal, over them a layer of thin slices of ham, pour over
this a little good gravy, and sprinkle in a seasoning
according to taste, and some pickles cut small. Fill the
dish with alternate layers of Veal and ham, always adding
pickles, seasoning, and gravy. When the dish is full,
bake the contents for twenty minutes. Let it stand in a
cool place all night, and turn it out next day.
(3) Put a slice of cold ham or bacon, a piece of crumb
of bread soaked in milk, and some cold roasted Veal into
V eal — continued.
a mortar, and pound them well ; then add and pound in
about half a shallot or half a small onion, some salt and
pepper, and a bit of butter, and lastly mix in two beaten
eggs. When all are thoroughly mixed, put it into a
buttered mould, and bake it for about an hour. Let it
stand till next day, or till thoroughly cold, turn it out,
cut it into slices, arrange them on a dish, garnish with
parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and serve.
(4) Put about 31b. of best end of neck of Veal in a
saucepan with some cold water, and stew it gently till
the bones can be easily taken out. Cut the meat into
small pieces and put them in a mould in layers, alternating
with slices of raw ham, boned and finely-chopped anchovies,
and hard-boiled eggs. Dust some cayenne pepper, salt,
chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg over each layer
of Veal. Pour in a little of the liquor in which the Veal
was stewed, put a plate on the mould, put it in a slow
oven, and bake the contents for two hours. When cold,
turn the cake out of the mould on to a dish, garnish it
with watercress ami slices of beetroot, and serve.
(5) Butter a plain mould, line the bottom and sides
with slices of hard-boiled eggs and small forcemeat balls,
in any fancy pattern, fill it with alternate layers of slices
of cooked or raw Veal and ham, and shake a little pepper
and salt on each layer. When the mould is nearly full,
put some stock or gravy over the fire, and add to it a
very little gelatine, soaked for ten minutes in as much
cold water as will just cover it. Stir this in the gravy
till quite melted, fill the mould up with the gravy, and
bake it for an hour in a moderate oven. If raw meat has
been used, it will take longer. Let it stand till next day,
then turn it out, and serve garnished with parsley and
croutons of aspic jelly.
(6) Put a layer of slices of hard-boiled eggs at the
bottom of a basin or mould, over these put a layer of thin
slices of Veal, rubbed with salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg, over these again lay some slices of ham, and
sprinkle over them parsley, thyme, marjoram, and lemon-
peel, all chopped very fine, and sifted breadcrumbs ; then
begin again with a layer of slices of hard-boiled eggs, and
continue the layers in the same order till the basin or
mould is filled. Pour in some good gravy, tie over it a
cover of thick brown paper, put it in a slow oven, and
let it bake for an hour. Let it stand till next day, and
then turn it out on a dish, and garnish with parsley.
(7) Hard boil six eggs, and when cold peel and cut
them into halves. Put some of these at the bottom of a
small mould, strew finely -chopped parsley over them, then
put in a few slices of Veal and ham, next some more
halves of eggs, and so on until the mould is full, season-
ing with small quantities of pepper, salt, and chopped
parsley between each layer. Pour in sufficient water to
reach the top of the meat, and put a few small pieces of
butter about on the top. Tie a double sheet of thick
paper over the mould, and bake it for an hour, or if a
large cake a little longer. If the bottom of the mould is
rounded, it should be put on the baking-tin, with a wall
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. 709
V eal — continued.
Veal — continued.
of ashes round it to keep it in place. When cooked,
remove the paper, and press the contents of the mould
down tightly with a spoon. Let it stand until cold, then
turn the cake out on to a dish, garnish it with parsley,
and serve.
(8) Take the best end of a breast of Veal, bone it, and
cut it in slices. Take some lean slices of ham cut thin,
and season them with black pepper, cayenne, salt, and
grated nutmeg. Hard boil two or three eggs, and chop them
up. Chop line a small bunch of parsley and a couple of
anchovies. Put a layer of Veal at the bottom of a deep
baking-dish, scatter over it some of the chopped eggs,
parsley, and anchovies, lay over them a layer of the
seasoned slices of ham, then add a layer of Veal, eggs,
&c., and continue alternate layers of ham and Veal with
the eggs, parsley, &c., till all is in the dish. Pour over
all J pint of water, lay the bones on the top, cover the
dish close, and bake in a slow oven for four hours. Then
take it from the oven, uncover the dish, take the bones
out, and let it stand till the following day. Turn it out,
and serve cold, garnished with parsley.
(9) Take lib. of the thick part of a leg of Veal, cut
out all skin and sinew, cut it up small with a little
piece of nice fat bacon and about Alb. of suet or marrow ;
mix with it a seasoning of white pepper, cayenne, powdered
mace, grated nutmeg, salt, and a small quantity of grated
or finely-chopped lemon-peel, and pound all to a paste in
a mortar. Shape the paste into small cakes about 2Jin.
in diameter, and fry them in boiling dripping to a nice
brown. Serve them hot, with some white sauce in a
small tureen.
(10) Chop lib. of cold Veal, and pass it through a
mincing-machine. Put Jib. of sausage-meat into a basin,
stand it in a saucepan of boiling water, and keep it over
the fire until cooked. Mix the Veal and sausage-meat
together with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper to taste, and a moderate quantity of powdered
sweet herbs. Bind the mixture with stock, mould it into
a cake or two rolls, put it in a baking-dish, and bake in
a brisk oven, keeping it well basted. When cooked, serve
hot with nicely -flavoured gravy ; or it may be served cold.
(11) Mince lib. of lean Veal and Jib. of suet, and soak
a stale roll in milk ; mix all together, season with a
small quantity of powdered mace, pepper and salt, and
bind it with three well-beaten eggs. Lay the mixture
out on a floured table and divide it into small flat cakes.
Put a lump of butter in a saucepan, put in the cakes,
and fry them till lightly browned ; then drain off as much
of the butter as possible, pour in some good beef stock,
and boil them gently till cooked. Drain the cakes, and
put them on a hot dish. Thicken the gravy with a little
flour, adding more seasoning if required, then pour it over
the cakes, and serve.
Veal Cheese. — Stew part of a knuckle of Veal in Veal
stock till it is quite tender and the gristle jellied, take
it from the fire, and let it cool. Butter a mould or a
basin, and lay in it at regular distances from each other
the yolks of hard-boiled eggs and some of the white, cut
either into rings or strips ; then lay among and over the
egg small bits of meat and gristle pulled or cut from the
cold knuckle of Veal; sprinkle this with pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg, and some of the gravy, then add more
eggs, with small bits of cold boiled beetroot and cold
boiled carrot (only use the red part of the carrot), more
meat and seasoning, and all the gravy. When the basin
or mould is filled put it in the oven for twenty minutes.
Take it out, let it stand till cold, then turn it out, and
serve.
Veal Collops. — Pare and cut 2lb. of Veal (cut from the
hip, if possible) into six thick slices, season them with
1 pinch of salt and J pinch of pepper, put them into a
saut6-pan on a very hot range, with loz. of butter, and
brown them for five minutes on each side. Place them on
a hot dish, and serve with any desired sauce or garnish.
Veal Collops a l’ltalienne. — The same as for Veal
Collops, adding one medium-sized chopped onion, six
chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful of parsley, and a
crushed clove of garlic. Moisten with J wineglassful of
white wine, cook for five minutes with 1 gill of Italian
sauce, and serve hot.
Veal Collops a la Provenqale. — These are prepared as for
Veal Collops, replacing the butter by the same quan-
tity of oil. Season well, and when browned on both sides
add one shallot or a finely-chopped onion. Let them colour,
and moisten with 1 gill of broth. Add 2 table-spoonfuls
of Spanish sauce, three chopped cepes or mushrooms, two
crushed cloves of garlic, and 1 teaspoonful of parsley.
Boil once, and serve with six croutons of fried bread for
garnish.
Veal Collops a la Viennaise. — Cut all the sinewy skin off
two minion fillets of Veal, cut them slantwise into slices
Jin. thick, beat them with a knife, season them with salt
and pepper, dredge them well with flour, dip them in
beaten egg, and cover with finely-grated breadcrumb.
Put a lump of butter in a frying-pan and melt it, then
put in the slices of Veal and fry them. When nicely
browned, drain the slices, and put them on a hot dish.
Pour 1 teacupful of gravy in the frying-pan, boil it for
three or four minutes, strain it through a fine sieve over
the “ schintzel,” and serve.
Veal Collops with. Endive. — Prepare and proceed precisely
the same as for Veal Collops. Cook for eight minutes.
Pour J pint of hot endive-juice on a hot dish, place the
collops on the top, and serve.
Veal Collops (Glazed). — Trim off all the sinewy part from
two minion fillets of Veal, cut them into thin slices, beat
them lightly with the handle of a knife, and season them.
Put a lump of butter in a frying-pan and melt it, then put
in the collops and fry them, browning them nicely on
both sides. When cooked, drain the butter off the col-
lops, moisten them with 3 table-spoonfuls of rich gravy,
and boil it till reduced to a glaze. Pour in a little
white wine and tomato sauce, boil the liquid up, then
take the frying-pan off the fire. Boil Jib. of well-washed
rice till soft, then mix a small quantity of butter and
grated Parmesan cheese with it. Butter a border mould,
fill it with the rice, leave it for four or five minutes,
then turn the rice out on to a hot dish. Put the collops in
the middle of the dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Veal Collops with Stuffed Peppers. — Proceed exactly as for
Veal Collops, adding the juice of half a medium-sized
lemon and 1 gill of hot Madeira sauce. Cook for three
minutes longer, and decorate the dish with six stuffed
green peppers three minutes before serving.
Veal Collops with Tomato Sauce. — Cut some pieces of
Veal lin. square off a breast of Veal, put them into a
saucepan with a small quantity of olive oil, and shake
them over the fire until they begin to brown ; then pour-
over them a small quantity of French tomato sauce, add
pepper and salt to taste, a shallot minced fine, and a
little finely-chopped parsley. Let all simmer gently for half-
an-hour, shaking the pan occasionally. Serve hot.
Veal Cones. — Free about lib. of Veal from skin and fat,
finely mince it with a slice of lean ham, put all in a
mortar, and pound until smooth ; then mix in a small
Fig. 957. Veal Cones.
teacupful of cream, and season the mixture with salt,
pepper, and a small quantity of grated lemon-peel. Divide
it into equal portions, mould these into cones about 2Jin.
or 3in. in height, brush them over with a beaten egg, and
strew grated breadcrumb over them. Put a large lump
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710
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V eal —continued.
of butter or clarified fat in a stew pan, and place it over
the fire ; when boiling, put in the cones, and fry them
until nicely browned. Fry in butter some grated bread-
crumb until nicely browned, and put them on a hot dish.
Drain the cones, arrange them on the top of the crumbs,
garnisli with a border o' fried parsley (see Fig. 957), and
serve.
Veal Country Captain. — Warm 4oz. of fat in a frying-
pan, add \ teaspoonful of chillies and \ teaspoonful of
turmeric both finely ground, and fry them to a light
brown ; then add a shoulder of Veal, cut up into small
pieces, and cook until the meat is tender. Turn the
curry out on to a dish, and serve. The shoulder of Veal
should be partially boiled or roasted before being used ;
or after it has been put in the pan, add 1 teacupful of
water, which will achieve the same purpose.
Veal Cromeskies. — Cut some thick slices off a minion
fillet of Veal, put them in a frying-pan with some bacon
fat, and fry them, keeping them rather underdone than
otherwise. Leave the slices of Veal till cold, then season
them with salt and pepper, and cut them into small
squares. Cut into little bits a small piece of cooked ox-
tongue, a sweetbread, and half a calf’s brain, and mix
them with the Veal. Finely chop four large white
onions, put them in a stewpan with a bay-leaf and a
little butter, and fry them till nicely browned ; season
with salt and pepper and J teaspoonful of sugar, dredge
1 table- poonful of flour over them, and pour in J pint
of gravy. Boil the onions gently till cooked, then put in
with them the salpi9on of meat and a little grated
nutmeg and cayenne pepper. In three or four minutes’
time, turn the mixture out on to a baking-sheet, spread
it out with the blade of a knife to a square shape about
Jin. thick, then leave it till cool. Shape some very thin
slices of ham into oblong squares ; divide the above
mixture into pieces the same shape and size, put each
one between two pieces of the ham, and press them lightly.
Prepare a batter for frying, and melt some lard in a
frying-pan. Dip the cromeskies in the batter, then plunge
them into the boiling lard, and fry them till nicely
browned. Drain the cromeskies, arrange them in a pyramid
on a folded napkin or ornamental dish -paper on a hot
dish, garnish them with fried parsley, and serve at once.
Veal Croquettes. — (1) Take some cold Veal, cut off the fat
and skin, and cut the Veal up very fine, seasoning with
onion-juice, celery salt, chopped parsley, cayenne, salt, and
pepper. Oysters parboiled and drained may be used,
taking half the bulk of them to the quantity of meat.
Mix well and moisten with well beaten egg and white
sauce. Make the paste into the shape of rolls, and put
them first into bread- or cracker-crumb’, then egg, anti
then crumbs again ; plunge them into a frying-pan of
boiling fat, and fry until done and of a light brown colour.
See Croquettes.
(2) Trim off the fat and outside part of some cold
Veal, and mince the lean finely. Put loz. of butter and
1 heaped table- poonful of Hour in a saucepan, and stir
them over the fire until well mixed, moistening with a
small quantity of clear stock, and stirring it in smoothly ;
then put in the minced Veal with some minced ham and
onions, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and a small
quantity each of finelv-minced parsley and powdered
sweet herbs. Stir the mixture over the fire until hot,
then move it to the side and stir in the yolks of two
eggs that have been well beaten with the juice of a
small lemon and strained. Turn the mixture on to a
dish, let it get cold, then divide it into small equal
portions, and mould them into balls, using plenty of
breadcrumb', while performing the operation. Egg-and-
breadcrumb the balls again, and fry them in boiling lard
until nicely browned. Drain the balls, pile them on a
hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish -paper, garnish them with fried parsley,
and serve.
Veal Cutlets. — (1) Trim some thinly-cut Veal cutlets (see
Fig. 958) to a nice shape, flatten them with a cutlet-bat
(see Fig. 959), and dust them over with salt and pepper.
V eal — continued.
Mince together in equal quantities some pieces of Veal
and fat bacon, mix them with a third of their bulk
of finely-grated breadcrumb, J table-spoonful of finely-
minced shallot, and a moderate quantity of powdered
sweet herbs ; bind the mixture with beaten egg, and,
when well mixed, cover the cutlets completely with it,
smoothing it over with the flat blade of a knife. Roll
the cutlets in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them
until nicely browned m boiling lard. Drain them, put
them on a hot dish, pour a nicely -flavoured rich brown
gravy round them, garnish with cut lemons, and serve.
(2) Procure the cutlets from a neck of Veal, each one
having a bone with it, and trim them to a nice shape.
Trim as nearly as possible to the same shape as many
slices of lean bacon as there are cutlets. Season the Veal
Fig. 959. Cutlet-bat.
cutlets with salt and pepper on both sides, and fry them
until nicely browned. Fry the slices of bacon separately.
Chop finely a few shallots, put them in a stewpan with
a small lump of butter, and fry them until lightly
browned ; then strain off the fat, pour over J teacupful of
white wine vinegar, and boil it until nearly all reduced.
Put Joz. of butter and 1 teaspoonful of flour into another
stewpan, and stir them over the fire until well mixed ;
then pour in gradually f breakfast-cupful of clear stock
that has been freed from fat, put in a bay-leaf with a
few sprigs of thyme, a few cloves and crushed pepper-
corns, and salt to taste, and boil it gently at the side of
the fire for nearly half-an-hour. At the end of that time,
strain the flavoured stock in with the shallots, put in a
moderate quantity of finely-minced parsley, and stir the
whole over the fire until boiling again. Arrange the
cutlets of Veal and bacon in alternate order on a hot
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THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
711
Veal — continued.
dish in a circle, pour the sauce in the centre, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve.
(3) German Style. — Trim off all the skin and sinews
from some Veal, and finely chop the meat ; season it with
salt and pepper and a moderate quantity of finely-
minced parsley, and if liked a small quantity of grated
lemon-peel, and hind it with beaten egg. Divide the
mixture into equal portions, and mould them to the
shape of cutlets. Roll them in beaten egg-aml-bread-
crumbs, and leave them for an hour ; then egg-anil-bread-
crumb them again, put them into a stewpan of boiling
fat, and fry them until nicely browned. Drain the cutlets,
decorate the bones with paper frills (see Fig. 9G0), arrange
them in a circle on a hot dish, fill the centre with fried
tomatoes, pour a rich gravy round, and serve.
Veal Cutlets a 1’Anglaise. — Shape the cutlets round,
trimming them neatly, and beat them with a cutlet-bat.
Put loz. of butter in a plate, with about J teaspoonful each
of chopped thyme and parsley, a squeeze of lemon-juice, and
the grated yellow rind ; melt the butter, and mix it
well with the other ingredients. Dip each cutlet in the
seasoned butter, then roll them in finely-grated bread-
crumb that has been seasoned with salt and pepper,
giving them a good coating and pressing them with
the flat blade of a knife. Put the cutlets in a buttered
saute -pan, and fry them. Fry also a few thin slices of
bacon, and roll them up. Prepare a border of mashed
potatoes, turn them on to a hot dish, place the cutlets
and rolls of bacon in the centre, pour about A pint of
hot brown sauce round them, and serve.
Veal Cutlets §L la Bonne Aime. -Pare six Veal cutlets,
brown them in a saute -pan with 2oz. of butter, anil
season them with 1 pinch of salt and A pinch of pepper,
turning them carefully several times. Add two onions
cut in thick slices, and place the lid on the saute -pan.
Stir the onions occasionally, and when of a golden brown
colour moisten with h pint of Spanish sauce. Cook for
fifteen minutes longer, and serve with 1 teaspoonful of
chopped parsley dusted over the whole.
Veal Cutlets a la Bouchere. — Cut the rib-bones square
of a neck of Veal, cut from it six or seven cutlets each
with one bone, clear about Jin. of the ends of the bones,
and beat the cutlets lightly with a cutlet-bat. Season with
salt and pepper, brush them over with melted butter,
and broil them both sides on a clear fire. When done,
glaze them with a paste-brush ( see Glaze), dish them in
a circular form, put a piece of maitre-d’hotel butter
between each, garnish the dish with lemons cut in quarters,
and serve.
Veal Cutlets a la Ch&lons. — Prepare these the same as for
Veal Cutlets a la Dreux, but lard them chequer-like
with ham, fat bacon, and pickled cucumbers, instead of
ham alone. Serve with stewed sorrel.
Veal Cutlets a la Chef de Cuisine. — Cut the cutlets 4in. long
from a neck of Veal, trim them, and clear lin. of the
bone. Lard the cutlets with strips of fat bacon Jin. in
thickness, tongue and truffles, put them in a stewpan with
Fig. 961. Veal Cutlets a la Chef de Cuisine.
f pint of Veal stock and J pint of mirepoix, cover them with
a sheet of paper, and let them cook gently by the side of the
fire till tender. When cooked, drain the cutlets, and press
between two plates till cold ; then trim them, and put
them in a saute -pan. Skim the fat off the cooking
Veal — continued.
liquor of the cutlets, strain it through a fine hair sieve
into a saucepan, and boil it till reduced to half-glaze.
Pour the sauce over the cutlets in the saute -pan, and put
in the oven to heat them up again. Pile up in the
centre of a dish French beans prepared as for garnish,
arrange the cutlets round the pile, pour plenty of gravy
over all, put a quarter of a lemon here and there ( see
Fig. 961), and serve.
Veal Cutlets a la Chingara. — Sprinkle pepper and salt
over six Veal cutlets, and fry them with a little butter
and bits of ham. When the cutlets are done, cut some
slices of tongue the same size, previously glazed, and
cover each cutlet with th m. Dish them, and serve with
some of the glaze.
Veal Cutlets a la Dauphin. — Trim six cutlets of Veal on
one side only, lard them with Veal and bacon cut fine,
and braise them. Reduce the liquor in which they were
stewed, then glaze the cutlets with it, and serve either
with stewed endive or sorrel.
Veal Cutlets a la Dreux. — Cut some Veal cutlets very
thick, trim them, lard with slices of ham cut in squares,
and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them ; put
them in a stewpan with some thin slices of bacon, two
small onions, two carrots, a few sprigs of thyme, three
or four cloves, and some bay-leaves ; lay the trimmings on
the top, add j teacupful of good Veal broth, and stew
them over a slow fire for two hours. When done, take
the cutlets out, and put them in a dish to cool. Reduce
the liquor to a glaze, and glaze the cutlets with it.
Serve with Spanish sauce.
Veal Cutlets a l’Espagnole. — Lay at the bottom of a
saucepan two or three thin slices of ham, a bunch of
parsley, half a bay-leaf, and a little thyme. Trim some
Veal cutlets, season them with pepper and salt, lay
them on the top of the ham and butter, and fry them
over a very slow fire. Drain the fat off, and pour in J
teacupful of Spanish sauce and 1 table-spoonful of broth.
Dish the cutlets, strain the sauce, pour it over them,
and serve.
Veal Cutlets a la Financiere. — (1) Cut a few cutlets off a
neck of Veal, shorten the rib-bones, and cut off the
chine-bones. Beat the cutlets lightly with a cutlet- bat,
stud them all over the same side in a fancy pattern with
square fillets of truffles, and dust some, pepper and salt
over them. Put some finely-chopped carrots and onions
in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, placing them side by
side, and cover them with clear broth. Boil the liquor
till reduced one-tliird its original quantity, then move the
stewpan to the side of the fire, and braise the cutlets
slowly for three quarters-of-an-hour, basting them often.
When cooked, take the cutlets away from the fire, and
leave them till nearly cold in their cooking-stock. Trim
the cutlets nicely, put them in another stewpan with the
cooking-stock, and heat them slowly in the oven. Cover
the bottom of a hot dish with financiere sauce, put some
ruffles round the bones of the cutlets, place them on the
dish, and serve.
(2) Remove the chine-bone and the upper part of the
rib-bones from a piece of the best end of a neck of Veal.
The bones intended to form the cutlets should be about
3in. in length. Divide the meat into cutlets, trim them,
and lard them closely with strips of bacon. Put a layer
of sliced onions, carrots, and celery in a stewpan with
some parsley and an onion stuck with four cloves. Put
the cutlets on the vegetables, the larded side up, pour in
sufficient water to reach the top of them, and put the
stewpan on the fire till the water boils ; then put it in
the oven to braise the contents for an hour-and a-half.
When nicely browned, put the cutlets on a hot dish, the
larded side up, arranging them in a circle. Strain the
cooking-liquor, pour it round them, fill the centre with a
mushroom puree, and serve.
Veal Cutlets a l’Indienne. — Procure tender Veal cutlets,
and trim them to a nice shape. Mix in about 1 break
fastcupful of milk, J table-spoonful each of pounded
ginger and coriander-seeds, and 2 table-spoonfuls of
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712
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V eal — continued.
pounded onion. Lay the cutlets on a deep dish, pour the
mixture over them, and let them steep for an hour or two.
When ready, brush the cutlets over with a paste-brush
dipped in beaten egg, then roll them in plenty of finely-
grated breadcrumb. Put a large piece of lard or clarified
fat in a flat stewpan, place it on the fire, and when boil-
ing put in the cutlets, and fry them until a bright
golden brown. Drain the cutlets when cooked, lay them
on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin
or an orramental dish-paper, garnish them with fried
parsley and cut lemons, and serve.
Veal Cutlets a l’ltalienne. — (1 ) Cut some nice cutlets off a
leg of Veal, and trim them to a pear shape, seasoning
them on both sides with salt and pepper. Put them in a
tin, baste them with a few table-spoonfuls of salad-oil,
'■'•‘ver them with a sheet of paper, and bake them in a
moderate oven until they are nicely cooked. Mince two
or three shallots, put them in a stewpan with a little
salad-oil, and fry them until they are nicely browned.
Mince four mushrooms and a few leaves of parsley, put
them in with the shallots, pour in equal quantities of
sufficient white wine and dear stock to make the sauce,
add a small bunch of sweet herbs tied together with a
bay -leaf, season to taste with salt and pepper, and boil
the whole gently for twenty minutes or half-an-hour. At
the end of that time, remove the bunch of herbs and bay-
leaf, add to the sauce a small piece of butter that has
been rolled in flour, and stir it at the edge of the fire
until thickened. Drain the cutlets from the oil, arrange
them in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce in the
centre, and serve. To garnish the dish, arrange taste-
fully round a border of fried parsley. If the flavour of
garlic is liked, the saucepan in which the sauce is made
may be rubbed with it.
(2) Cut the chops out of a neck of Veal, beat them with
a cutlet-bat to flatten them, trim them, dust a little pepper
and salt over them, brush with yolk of egg, dip them in
breadcrumbs, then in melted butter, and again in bread-
crumbs, and broil them over a slow fire, on both sides,
till a nice brown. Dish, and serve with a brown Italian
sauce.
Veal Cutlets a la Lyonnaise.— Trim the cutlets, and dust
them on both sides with pepper and salt. Put a lump of
lard in a stewpan, and melt it ; then put in the cutlets,
and fry them over a brisk fire until done on both sides.
Drain the fat out of the stewpan, pour over the cutlets J
teacupful of rich broth, and boil it quickly till reduced to
glaze ; then turn the cutlets, pour in the same quantity
of broth as before, and reduce that. When finished,
arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish. Pour in the
stewpan in which they were cooked h pint of brown sauce
and 1 teacupful of Madeira, and boil it ; then add 1 teacup-
ful of chopped gherkins, 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped
parsley, and a pat of butter. When the butter has dis-
solved, pour the sauce over the Veal, and serve it.
Veal Cutlets ft la Maintenon. — Prepare the cutlets as
usual, and broil them ; but before they are quite done,
take them out, drain them, and let them cool. Put some
bacon cut in the shape of hearts on each side of the
cutlets, wrap them round with paper dipped in oil, and
broil both sides on a slow fire.
Veal Cutlets a la Marechal.— (1) Remove the skin and fat
from about 2oz. of mutton, chop the lean, put it in a mortar,
pound it well, and then rub it through a fine wire sieve.
Mix with it J table-spoonful of finely -chopped parsley,
and sufficient cream to bind it, not making it too liquid,
and season it with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of
grated nutmeg. Trim to a neat shape four or five Veal
cutlets, dip them in well-beaten egg, then roll them in bread-
crumbs that have been seasoned moderately with salt and
pepper. The cutlets should be well coated on all sides with
the crumbs. Put some clarified fat into a deep frying-pan,
and place it over the fire until a blue column of smoke
rises ; then put in the cutlets, and fry them for nearly
ten minutes ; turn them when browned on one side, and
brown the other. When fried, drain the cutlets, spread
over each a layer of the Veal mixture, lay them side by
Veal — continued.
side in a shallow tin dish, strew a small quantity of
finely-chopped mushrooms over them, dust them very
lightly with salt ami pepper, and bake them for ten
minutes in a moderate oven. When cooked, arrange the
cutlets on a hot dish over which has been spread an
ornamental dish-paper, garnish them with neat sprigs of
parsley, and serve.
(2) Pare six Veal cutlets, season them with 1 table-
spoonful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of pepper, and cook
them in a saute -pan with 2oz. of butter for five minutes
on each side. Moisten with h pint of Spanish sauce, add
four sliced mushrooms, twelve small godiveau quenelles, and
three chickens’ livers blanched and cut into pieces, and
cook for five minutes longer. Serve on a hot dish, with
six croutons of fried bread for garnish.
Veal Cutlets a la Milanaise. — (1) Trim the cutlets neatly
and to an equal size. Boil 2oz. of macaroni in salted
water; when tender, drain it, and mix with it loz. of
butter, 2oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, and 1 teacupful of
tomato sauce. Mix 1 |teacupful of finely -grated breadcrumb
with 1 teacupful of grated Parmesan cheese, and season well
with salt and pepper. Roll the cutlets in warmed butter
and then in the breadcrumbs, and leave them for a few
minutes ; then dip them in beaten egg and again in the
mixture. Put a large lump of dripping or lard in a flat
stewpan, and place it over the fire; when blue smoke
rises, put in the cutlets, and fry them until well and
equally browned. Move the macaroni away from the
fire, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Pile this in
the centre of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets round it,
garnish it with fried parsley, and serve.
(2) Cut some small rather thick Veal cutlets, and trim
them neatly. Mix with some finely-grated breadcrumb a
third of their quantity of grated Parmesan cheese, and
season with a moderate quantity of minced parsley, and
salt and pepper to taste. Dip the cutlets in beaten egg,
roll them in the above mixture, leave them for a short
time, then egg-and-breadcrumb them again. Boil the
required quantity of macaroni in water, and when nearly
tender, drain off the water and finish cooking it in milk ;
then stir in with it loz. of butter, 2oz. of grated Parmesan
cheese, and J table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Toss the
whole over the fire until well mixed. Fry the cutlets a
light brown in butter. Pile the macaroni in the centre
of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets round it, and serve.
(3) Cut the Veal into cutlets about Jin. thick, beat
them flat without breaking the bone, season them with
salt and pepper, dip them in melted butter, then in
finely-grated Parmesan cheese, and then coat them well
with egg and breadcrumbs. Put a lump of fresh butter
in a frying-pan, and when it is hot put in the cutlets
and fry them, browning them nicely on both sides.
When cooked, drain the cutlets, put them on a folded
napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish
them with slices of lemon, and serve them with a sauce-
boatful of tomato sauce, or, if preferred, maitre-d’hotel
butter.
Veal Cutlets a la Napolitaine. — Trim the cutlets to a
nice shape, dip them in warmed butter, roll them in a
mixture of finely-grated breadcrumb and Parmesan cheese,
dust them over with salt and pepper, and leave them for
an hour ; then dip them in beaten egg and again in the
crumbs and cheese. Boil the required quantity of macaroni,
and when tender mix with it a lump of butter, some
tomato sauce, and the beaten yolk of an egg, seasoning
it to taste with salt and pepper. Put a lump of butter
in a flat stewpan, and when boiling put in the cutlets
and fry them until lightly browned. Pile the macaroni
in the centre of a hot dish, strew grated Parmesan cheese
over it, arrange the cutlets round, and serve.
Veal Cutlets en Papillotes. — Pare nicely six Veal cutlets,
put them in a saute -pan with loz. of butter, and season
with 1 table-spoonful of salt and 1 teaspoonful of white
peeper. Add half a chopped onion, and brown slightly ;
add four finely-chopped mushrooms, and cook for eight
minutes ; then pour in a gill of Spanish sauce, and cook
for four minutes longer. Take out the cutlets, drain
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
713
V eal — continued.
them, and put them on one side to cool. Add to the
gravy 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley and 2 table-spoon-
fuls of breadcrumbs. Have ready six pieces of oiled
white paper cut heart shape, put a thin slice of cooked
ham on one side of the paper, pour over the ham a
little of the stock, and on the top of it place a cutlet
and another layer of the stock, and over all a thin slice
of cooked ham. Cover with the second part of the paper,
and close it by folding the two edges firmly together.
Bake for a short time, at most live minutes, in a rather
slow oven, and serve at once.
Veal Cutlets a la Perigueux. — -Trim some Veal cutlets
more than lin. in thickness, keeping the bones short, and
lard them through with raw trutiies cut in square fillets.
Line the bottom of a flat stewpan with sliced vegetables
and lay the cutlets on them ; add Veal broth to half
their height and a bunch of herbs and parsley, and re-
duce the broth to half its original quantity ; then cover
the cutlets with buttered paper, move them to the side
of the fire, and simmer slowly, adding a little more broth
occasionally. When done, drain the cutlets, and put
them on a circle of forcemeat jwached in the dish,
having in the centre a small bread croustade filled with
cooked truffles (see Fig. 962). Add the trimmings of the
truffles to the liquor that the cutlets were cooked in,
reduce, skim off the fat, thicken with a little brown sauce,
strain it, pour some over the cutlets, and serve the re-
mainder in a sauceboat.
Veal Cutlets a la Proven^ale. — Trim the cutlets, season
them with salt and pepper, flour them, put them in a
stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them. When
the meat has set, drain the fat from the stewpan, and pour
in some broth to half the height of the cutlets. When
the liquor boils, move the stewpan to the side of the fire,
and keep it simmering till the cutlets are done. Chop
six large white onions, put them in a stewpan with a
lump of butter, and fry them over a moderate fire till
nicely browned. Dredge a little flour, pepper, and salt
over the onions, pour in h pint of wine and gravy, mixed
in equal quantities, and boil them for ten minutes. When
cooked, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish, turn
the minced onions and gravy in the centre, sprinkle over
a little cayenne pepper and chopped parsley, and serve.
Veal Cutlets en RagoUt. — Cut some nice-sized cutlets
from a fillet of Veal, beat them with a cutlet-bat, trim
them neatly, and lard them with thin strips of bacon.
Season some breadcrumbs with salt, pepper, and chopped
parsley, and strew them over the cutlets. Prepare a
ragout of Veal, sweetbreads, and mushrooms. Put a lump
of butter or clarified fat in a frying-pan, and place it over
the fire ; when blue smoke rises, put in the cutlets, and
fry them till nicely browned on both sides. When cooked,
drain and lay them on a hot dish, pour the ragout
over them, and serve without delay.
Veal Cutlets a la St. Cloud. — Lard six Veal cutlets with
two small truffles cut julienne shape, loz. of cooked beef
tongue, and loz. of larding-pork, all cut in the same way.
Place them in a saute -pan with 1 pinch of salt, one sliced
carrot, and one sliced onion, and let them brown for ten
minutes, being careful to keep the lid on the pan.
Moisten with l, pint of broth, anti put them in the oven
V eal — continued.
to finish cooking for at least fifteen minutes. Serve with
a hot salpiyon sauce poured over the dish, and the
chops put on the top.
Veal Cutlets a la Singarat, or Saint Garat. — Lard the
cutlets with fine strips of lean bacon, trimming them off,
nicely. Put some slices of ham and bacon in a stewpan
put in the cutlets, and cover them with slices of bacon,
adding a few carrots, onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
Pour in some stock, put the lid on the stewpan with
some hot coals on it, and cook the contents over a slow
fire. When cooked, take the cutlets out. Strain the
sauce through a fine hair sieve, mix a little stock with
it, and boil it till somewhat reduced. Put a purue of
mushrooms or tomatoes on a hot dish, place the cutlets
on it, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Veal Cutlets en Semelleo. — Cut some cutlets lin. thick
from a fillet of Veal, sprinkle them well with pepper and salt,
and fry them a little in butter with a bay-leaf in the
pan. Lay at the bottom of a deep saucepan a thin slice
of bacon, and on the top of it one of the Veal cutlets ;
over this another thin slice of bacon, then a Veal cutlet,
and so on alternately till all are packed in. Put in then
h pint of water and two or three bay-leaves, lay a sheet
of buttered paper over the meat, close the lid of the
saucepan tightly, put it on hot ashes, and let it stew for four
or five hours, keeping the fire at the same degree of heat
all the time. Turn out when done, and serve very hot.
Veal Cutlets en Surprise. — (1) Any underdone pieces of Veal
can be used, trimmed to a nice shape. Mix with some
finely-grated breadcrumb half their quantity of minced
bacon, moderate quantities of chopped parsley and shallot,
salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg. Bind the mixture with beaten yolk of egg,
spread a layer of it over one side of each cutlet, and
wrap each in a slice of fat bacon and then in a sheet of
oiled paper, folding it well round the edges. Put a lump
of butter or clarified fat into a flat stewpan, and place
it over the fire ; when blue smoke rises, put in the
cutlets, and fry them from five to ten minutes. When
cooked, drain the cutlets, put them on a hot dish over which
has been spread a folded napkin, garnish with parsley,
and serve.
(2) Cut the Veal into thin cutlets, trim them neatly,
and dredge them over with salt and pepper. Chop the
trimmings of the cutlets up finely with a moderate quantity
of fat bacon, add to the mixture half its quantity of
breadcrumbs, and season with moderate quantities of
finely-minced sweet herbs and shallot, and salt and pepper
to taste. Bind the mixture with beaten egg, and spread it
over the cutlets on both sides ; brush them over with a
paste-brush dipped in beaten yolk of egg, and roll them
m breadcrumbs. Put a large lump of butter or clarified
fat in a flat stewpan, and place it on the fire ; when
boiling, put in the cutlets, and fry them a delicate brown.
Drain the cutlets when they are cooked, put them on a
hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or
an ornamental dish -paper, garnish with quarters of lemons,
and serve with a sauceboatful of rich brown gravy.
Veal Cutlets a la Talleyrand. — Cut lib. of fillet of Veal
into small oval-shaped pieces, put them into a flat stew-
pan with loz. of butter, toss them about over a moderate
tire for five minutes, taking care not to let them brown,
then move the pan off the fire. Chop as finely as
possible 1 teacupful of mushrooms, one shallot, and two
or three sprigs of parsley, then strew them over the pieces
of Veal. Put loz. of butter into a small saucepan with
1 table-spoonful of flour, stir them over the fire until
mixed, then pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of white stock.
Continue stirring the stock until boiling, then pour it
over the Veal, and stew the whole gently for nearly
half-an-hour, stirring it or shaking the stewpan about
occasionally to prevent the contents burning. Beat the
yolks of two eggs with J teacupful of cream, and season
to taste with salt and pepper. When cooked, take the
pieces of Veal out of tiie stewpan, and arrange them on
a hot dish. Pour the beaten egg into the stewpan with
the Veal liquor, and stir it at the side of the fire for
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714
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
two or three minutes, hut without letting it hoil again,
or the eggs will curdle; then pour it over the Veal, -and
serve while very hot.
Veal Cutlets a la Venitienne. — (1) Prepare the cutlets
as tor Veal Cutlets a l’Italienne. Put in a
saucepan 1 pint of mushrooms, a few shallots, and a little
parsley, all chopped very line. Mince a little fat bacon,
add it to the above with small pieces of butter, and let
them simmer over a slow lire. When they are done, add
the cutlets, and stew till they also are done. Season
with salt and pepper. Skim the fat oil’ the gravy, put 1
table-spoonful of sauce tournee in the liquor, thicken the
sauce with the yolks of three eggs, add a little cream,
the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne pepper. Dish
the cutlets, and serve with the sauce.
(2) Chop fine 1 breakfast-cupful of mushrooms, a little
parsley, and a few shallots ; put them into a saucepan
over a slow lire with a piece of butter and a small
quantity of fat bacon finely chopped, and let them stew ;
when partly done, put in some cutlets cut from the best
end of a neck of Veal, nicely trimmed, well seasoned
with salt and pepper, and beaten flat, and let them stew
slowly till quite tender ; then skim off the fat and stir in
the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a little cream
and 1 table-spoonful of sauce tournee ; then mix in the
strained juice of a lemon and a little cayenne, and serve.
Veal Cutlets a la Viennaise. — Cut Veal cutlets into nice-
sized square pieces, beat them with a rolling-pin, and
dip them in well-beaten white of egg and then in finely-
grated breadcrumb. Fry the pieces of meat in lard.
When cooked and nicely browned, dredge salt over them,
and serve them on a dish that has been embellished
with a folded napkin or fancy-edged dish -paper.
Veal Cutlets a la Zingara. — Saw the end of the rib-bones
off a neck of Veal, so as to make the cutlets 4in. long,
cut them of an even thickness, and trim them. Put the
cutlets in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them
till lightly coloured ; then drain off all the butter, and
pour in 1 pint of Veal broth and f pint of Spanish
sauce. When the liquor boils, move the stewpan to the
side of the fire, and keep it simmering till the meat is
tender. Cut some slices of lean ham the same shape as
the cutlets, put them in a frying-pan with a little butter,
and fry them for five minutes. When cooked, drain the
cutlets, and arrange them in a circle on a hot dish with
a slice of ham between each. Skim the fat off the gravy,
strain it through a silk sieve, and serve it in a sauceboat
with the cutlets.
Veal Cutlets with Aspic Jelly. — Cut the rib-bones of
eight Veal cutlets short, so as to leave them 4in. long,
trim them, and lard them (see LARDING) through with
strips of bacon, truffles, and ham, t hen braise them with
some mirepoix, and cook them. When they are done,
drain them, and press them between two dishes until
they are cold. Cut a piece of bread 4in. high, remove the
crust, and fry it a golden colour ; when cold, mask it with
Montpellier butter, and fix it on a rice socle, also masked
with the same butter. Arrange the cutlets upright against
the bread, the bones inwards, put a pat of Montpellier
butter on the top of the bread, so as to hide the cutlet
bones, put a small aspic croftton on the pat of butter,
place some chopped aspic jelly between each cutlet,
garnish the dish with some aspic jelly cut into croutons,
and serve.
Veal Cutlets in Cases. — Put the cutlets in a deep dish
with some chopped mixed herbs and mushrooms, a dust of
salt and pepper, a squeeze of lemon juice, and some olive
oil. In two or three hours’ time drain the cutlets, wrap
each one separately in a sheet of buttered paper, put
them in a saucepan, pour in the oil in which they soaked,
and cook them over a slow fire. When cooked, drain the
cutlets, put them on a hot dish, leaving the papers on,
and serve them with mushroom sauce.
Veal Cutlets Sautes. — (1) Trim five or six Veal cutlets, put
them in a saucepan with a little stock, and boil them
gently till cooked ; then drain them, put them on a plate,
Veal — continued.
put another on the top, with a weight on the top of that,
and leave them till cold. Boil some brown sauce with
trimmings of tru files till stiffly reduced, then dip in the
cutlets to coat them thickly on both sides, dust some
Hour over them, brush them over with beaten egg, cover
them thickly with finely -grated breadcrumb, and last of
all brush them over with clarified butter. Put the cutlets
in a saute -pan with a little butter, and saute them till
lightly browned. Drain the cutlets, put them on a dish-
paper on a hot dish, garnish them with fried parsley, and
serve with a sauceboatful of white sauce.
Veal Cutlets with Stewed Cabbage (Venetian). —
Thoroughly wash and dry the heart of a white cabbage,
and cut it up into small pieces. Put loz. of beef dripping
into a stewpan with ioz. of butter and t table-spoonful
of finely-minced garlic, and stir it over the fire until
browned. Put in the cabbage with more fat, either
butter or dripping if necessary, and stew it gently at the
side of the lire for two hours-and-a-half, stirring it frequently.
Trim some thin cutlets of Veal to a nice shape, coat each
with a thin layer of preserved tomatoes, strew finely-
chopped onion and parsley over them, season with salt
and a small quantity of cayenne pepper, and moisten
with a few drops of vinegar. Half Jill a flat stewpan
with salad-oil, and place it over the lire; when it boils
put in the cutlets, and fry them. As each cutlet is
Fig. 963. Veal Cutlets with Stewed Cabbage.
cooked, take it out of the fat, and drain it for a minute
or two on a sheet of kitchen-paper before the fire. Turn
the cabbage on to a hot dish, lay the cutlets on it (see
Fig. 963), and serve.
Veal Cutlets with White Sauce. — Put 2 table-spoonfuls of
butter into a saucepan with 1 table spoonful each of finely-
chopped carrot and onion, and fry them for a few minutes
over a clear fire. Season ljlb. of Veal cutlets with salt
and pep®-, put them in the saucepan with the vegetables,
put on the lid, and cook them slowly for lia f-an-hour.
Take the cutlets out of the saucepan, dip them in beaten
egg, cover them well with breadcrumbs, and fry them till
nicely browned in boiling butter. Put a puree of green
peas in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets
round them, pour some white sauce round, and serve.
Veal Doopiaja. — Put 3oz. of fat into a warmed frying-
pan, add twelve onions cut in slices, and fry them to a
light brown ; take them out, add to the fat 4 teaspoon-
fuls of ground onions, 1 teaspoonful each of ground chillies
and turmeric, teaspoonful of ground ginger, and \ tea-
spoonful of ground garlic, and brown these slightly ; put
in 21b. of meat from the shoulder of Veal, cut up into
squares, and 1 h teaspoonfuls of salt, pour in 1 breakfast-
cupful of water, and simmer gently over a slow fire for
about an-hour and-a-half, by which time the meat should
be tender and the liquor reduced to a stiff consistency
and about half its original quantity. Turn the mixture
out on to a dish, sprinkle over the onions, and serve very
hot.
Veal Forcemeat. — (1) Chop lib. of beef-suet and half that
quantity of lean Veal, and mix them together. Season the
mixture with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, put it
in a mortar, and pound it ; then stir in four eggs that
have been beaten with a little water and 1 table-spoonful
of chopped parsley. When well mixed, the forcemeat is
ready for use.
(2) Finely chop 31b. of Veal, and pound it in a mortar.
Put 1 pint of milk in a saucepan with 2 breakfast-
cupfuls of breadcrumbs, and stir them over the fire till soft and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
715
Veal — continued.
smooth ; then take them off and leave them till cold,
adding beforehand 1 breakfast-cupful of butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of salt, J teaspoonful of pepper, 2 table-spoonfuls
of onion-juice, 2 table -spoonfuls of chopped parsley, and
a little grated nutmeg. When cold, mix the pounded
meat with the above mixture and the beaten yolks of
six eggs, and it is ready for use.
Veal Forcemeat (for Balls or Stuffing). — Take some lean
Veal, chop it up line, and put it into a mortar with
one-third its quantity of either finely -shredded suet or
butter, and the same of crumbs taken from a stale house-
hold loaf and put in a basin with a little milk, and
when thoroughly saturated taken out and squeezed diy ;
pound these well, adding a little grated nutmeg, salt and
pepper to taste. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, pour it
into the mixture to bind it, make it a firm paste, and
use it either made into balls and fried, or as a stuffing.
Veal Forcemeat (for Boiled Turkey). — Take {,1b. of lean
Veal, chop it finely with a little beef-suet, a few oysters,
and two anchovies, and add some breadcrumbs mixed
with the yolks of eggs and a few herbs. When the
turkey is prepared for boiling, stuff the crop with the
forcemeat, and boil.
Veal Forcemeat Balls (for Mock Turtle Soup).
Take the crumb of two or three French rolls, put it into
a saucepan with sufficient rich gravy to cover it, place
the pan on the side of the fire, and let it boil gently
until quite done. Take it out, squeeze out all the liquor,
put it into another saucepan over the fire, and stir till
it is quite dry ; then add the yolks of two eggs, and let
it cool. Put Jib. of lean Veal into a mortar, pound it
well, and add the breadcrumb mixture and 3oz. of butter.
Add a little grated nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt to
season it, and if liked a little well pounded lean ham.
Roll the paste into balls, and boil them for twelve minutes
before putting them into mock turtle soup.
Veal Forcemeat Cutlets. — Chop well two or three times
in *tlie machine 21b. of lean Veal, cut from the hip if
possible, place the meat in a bowl with 2oz. of finely -
chopped raw Veal -suet, season with 1 good pinch of
salt, J pinch of pepper, and J pinch of nutmeg, add J
breakfast-cupful of good cream, one chopped shallot, and
two raw eggs, anil mix well together. Roll the mass out
Fig. 964. Cutlet-cutters.
to Jin. thick, cut out some cutlets with any kind of cutlet-
cutter (see Fig. 964), sprinkle them with breadcrumbs, and
fry in a pan with 2oz. of clarified butter for four minutes
on each side. Serve with any kind of sauce.
Veal Forcemeat Stuffing for Fish. — Make 4oz. of bread
panada, and mix it with Jib. of finely-minced cooked Veal,
2oz. each of chopped fat salt pork and suet, the juice of
half a lemon, J teaspoonful each of powdered thyme and
savory, and a small quantity of ground mace ; add a
seasoning to taste of salt and pepper, and bind the whole
with a beaten egg. The stuffing is then ready for use.
Of course, it can be made in larger or smaller quantities,
according to the size of the fish.
Veal Fricadelles. — (1) Finely chop 21b. of lean Veal and
about 3oz. of cooked ham. Put 1 breakfast-cupful of bread-
crumbs in a saucepan with J pint of milk, and stir
it over the fire until cooked to a smooth paste, taking
care it does not burn at the bottom. Mix the bread with
the chopped Veal and ham, season the mixture with salt,
pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, and work in with
it Jib. of butter. When well mixed, divide the mixture
into small equal -sized portions, roll them into balls, and
then dip them in beaten egg. Put Jib. of butter into
Veal — continued.
a frying-pan, and when hot put in the balls and fry
them till lightly browned. Every care must be taken not
to burn them. Take the balls -out of the frying-pan, and
stir into the butter 3 table-spoonfuls of flour. When dark
brown,- turn the flour into the saucepan, pour in gradually
1J pints of stock, and when boiling put in the balls.
Move the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the con-
tents simmer slowly for an hour. Turn the fricadelles and
gravy on to a hot dish, garnish with slices of lemon and
sipjiets of toast or croutons of fried bread, and serve.
(2) German. — Finely chop some uncooked lean Veal
with half its bulk of lean ham, add chopped parsley,
thyme, and lemon-peel in moderate quantities, and season
t6 taste with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a small
quantity of cayenne. For lib. of the mixture, work in 1
teacupful of crushed biscuit- or cracker- crumbs, 3oz. of
butter, and three eggs that have been well beaten with
J teacupful of water. When well incorporated, mould the
mixture to an oval or round shape, flatten it, put it in a
baking-dish with about 2oz. of butter cut up into small
pieces, strew plenty of biscuit-crumbs over the top, and
bake it in a brisk oven until browned, basting it occasion-
ally with the butter in the dish. Just before taking the
fri 'adelle out of the oven, pour over it 3 or 4 table-
spoonfuls of cream. Prepare a nicely -flavoured brown
sauce, thickening it with flour and butter kneaded together.
When cooked, lift it carefully out of the baking-dish,
place it on a hot dish, pour the gravy round it, and
serve.
Veal Fricassee with Scorzonera. — Put a breast of
Veal cut in small pieces into a stewpan with about 2oz.
of butter, put the lid on, and stand it close to the edge
of the fire for half -an -hour. Wash some scorzonera, cut
it into pieces about 2in. long, put them in with the meat
with a piece of lemon peel and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, pour in sufficient water to make a good quan-
tity of sauce, put the lid on the pan, and stew the con-
tents until tender. When cooked, strain some of the
liquor off the meat into a basin, beat it with the yolks
of two eggs, and then return it to the stewpan. Let it
remain at the side of the fire until thick, but without
boiling it again. Turn the fricassee on to a hot dish,
garnish it with slices of lemon, and serve.
Veal Gravy. — Take lib. of lean ham cut in slices and
a knuckle of Veal cut up, and put them in a well-
buttered stewpan with any bones of chickens and rabbits
which may be handy ; put 2qts. of stock over this, cover
it up, and boil down to a glaze. When it is deep red,
fill up vdtli stock ; as soon as it boils, skim it well,
add three or four cloves, two blades of mace, three carrots,
and the same amount of chopped -up celery, turnips, and
onions. Let it simmer for two or three hours, and strain
it through a tammy sieve into a pan to cool for use.
Veal Gravy Soup. — Put two or three pieces of butter
into a stewpan, then a few slices of ham, slices of Veal
cutlet, sliced onions, carrots, turnips, celery, and a few
cloves. Pour in 1 table-spoonful of broth, and sweat the
ingredients over a slow fire till the meat throws out ite
juice ; then put the stewpan over a quick fire and fry the
contents till nicely browned. Put a bunch of sweet herbs
in the stewpan, pour in about 3 pints of clear broth, and
let it simmer gently till the meat is cooked. Pour the
soup into a tureen, and serve it with a plate of sippets
of toast or croutons of fried bread.
Veal Ham. — Trim a leg of Veal to the shape of a ham.
Mix together 1 pint of bay-salt, lib. of common salt,
2oz. of saltpetre, loz. of powdered cinnamon, and loz. of
powdered juniper- berries. Rub the meat well with this
mixture, and lay it on a tray with the skin downwards.
Baste it well every day for a fortnight. At the end of that
time, hang the meat over wood smoke for a fortnight.
Afterwards boil it, or partially boil and tlien roast it.
Veal-and-Ham Fritters. — Put lib. of flour on a table,
and make a dent in the middle, in which put 1 salt-
spoonful of salt and 3 table-spoonfuls of warmed butter ;
mix it well, pour in sufficient water to make a softish
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716
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V eal — continued.
Veal — continued.
paste, and knead it, dipping the hands occasionally in
warmed butter. Dust flour over the table, roll the paste
to about Jin. in thickness, and cut it in halves. Mince
lib. of raw Veal and Jib. of ham with two or three onions,
and fry them in butter till nicely browned, seasoning them
with salt and pepper and any other flavouring liked.
Put table spoonfuls of the minced meat over one half of
the paste, a short distance from each other. Moisten
round each pile of mincemeat with a paste-brush dipped
in water, then lay the other flat of paste over it, and
press it round where the other one is moistened. Cut the
paste out round the mincemeat. Put a lump of butter
in a frying-pan, and make it hot; then put in the
fritters, and fry them till nicely browned on both sides.
When cooked, drain them well, and arrange them in a
pyramid on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish -paper
on a hot dish, and serve.
Veal-and-Ham Patties. — Chop some cooked lean Veal,
and mix with it half its quantity of ham. Put loz.
of butter into a stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour,
and stir it over the fire till mixed ; then put in the chop-
ped meat, a small quantity of cream, and an equal quantity
of Veal stock, the juice of half a lemon, 1 table -spoonful
of essence of ham, a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg,
cayenne pepper, and salt. Stir the above ingredients over
a slow fire till well mixed and hot. Butter some patty-
pans, line them with putt' paste, put a small piece of
bread in each, put some covers of paste on the top,
damping the edges and trimming them round, brush them
over with a paste brush dipped in beaten yolk of egg, and
bake them in a quick oven for fifteen minutes. When
cooked, take the patties out of the oven, cut the covers
off, take out the bread, and scoop out the inside paste.
Fill the crusts with the Veal mixture, and put the covers
on again. Put the patties on a folded napkin or orna-
mental dish-paper on a dish, garnish with parsley, and
serve.
Veal-and-Ham Pie. — (1) Cut the Veal into moderate sized
pieces, and lard them with strips of bacon. Cut about
half as much bacon as there is Veal into the same sized
pieces, season them with chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg, and fry them in butter. Butter a pie-
mould and line it with putt' paste, then line it with a
Veal forcemeat made from the trimmings of the meat, &c.
Fill the mould with alternate layers of Veal, ham, and
forcemeat, raising it in a dome, and finishing off with
forcemeat. Cover the pie with a flat of puff paste,
moisten the edges, press them together, and raise them
about fin. above the edge of the mould. Crimp the edges,
put another thin layer of puff paste on the top, and brush
it over with beaten yolk of egg. Make a hole in the top
of the pie, sketch a pattern over it with a sharp pointed
knife, tie a strip of buttered paper round the mould,
allowing it to come a good inch above the pie, and bake
it from three to four hours in a moderate oven. When
cooked, pour some rich gravy in the pie through the hole
at the top, and leave it till cold. Take the pie out of
the mould, put it on an ornamental dish paper or folded
napkin on a dish, garnish it with parsley, and serve.
(2) Cut about 2lb. of Veal cutlets into small pieces, and
season them well with salt and pepper. Cut lib. of raw
ham into slices. Fill a dish with alternate layers of the
Veal and ham, putting here and there a few hard boiled
yolks of eggs and stewed mushrooms, and cover the top
with a thick layer of sausage forcemeat. Moisten with 1
glass of water, and bake the pie in a moderate oven.
Serve it either hot or cold.
(3) Butter a pie-dish, and line it with a rich puff paste.
Cut the Veal into small pieces, and about one-third of the
quantity of ham or lean bacon. Put some chopped mush-
rooms in a frying-pan with a sprig of parsley and a small
lump of butter, and fry them for a few minutes ; then
dredge in some flour, pour in h pint of gravy and 1
table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and stir it over the
fire till boiling. Fill the prepared pie-dish with the
Veal and ham and six hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, and
pour in the gravy and mushrooms. Season the pie with
pepper and salt, cover it with a flat of puff paste moisten -
ing it and trimming it off at the edges ; make a hole in
the top, ornament it with paste leaves, and bake it for
about one-hour-and-a- uarter. When cooked, take the
pie out of the oven, pour a little more gravy through the
bole at the top, and serve it either hot or cold.
(4) Line a raised pie-mould with a rich paste. Cut
some Veal into small pieces, mix a little chopped ham
with it, and season it with salt, pepper, and grated nut-
meg. Put the meat into the mould, pour in a little
gravy, cover the pie with a flat of paste, moisten and
press the edges together, raising them above the mould,
and decorate the top with leaves, &c., that have been
cut out of paste. Bake the pie for one-hour-and-a-half in a
slow oven. Boil 1 pint of stock till reduced to \ pint,
adding 1 wineglassful of wine and sufficient gelatine to
make a stiff jelly. When the pie is cooked, lift one of
the ornaments at the top, to pour in the gravy, then put
it on again, and leave the pie till cold. Take the mould
off, put the pie on a folded napkin on a dish with a
stand, garnish with sprigs of parsley (see Fig. 965), and
serve.
Veal Jelly. — Cut lib. of Veal into very thin slices, put a
layer of them at the bottom of a jar, cover with thin
slices of turnip, and repeat this until all is used up. Two
turnips should be sufficient. Sprinkle in 1 pinch of salt,
pour in 1 teacupful of water, cover the jar, set it in
a saucepan with boiling water to half its height, and
simmer gently for about four hours. Strain through a
jelly-bag, and use either hot or cold, the latter for pre-
ference.
Veal Kebobs. — Peel some Spanish onions and garlic, and
cut them in thin slices. Cut also some thin slices of Veal
and pickled pork of the same size as the onion slices, but
rather thinner. Season the slices of meat with pepper,
salt, and turmeric, and string them on a skewer or
skewers in alternate order : onion, garlic, veal, and pork,
and so on till the skewers are filled or the meat and
onions used up. Fry them in butter till they are brown,
and serve garnished with plenty of fried parsley.
Veal Loaf. — (1) Put 1 Jib. of Veal in a stewpan with a
carrot, onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt,
and sufficient water to cover it, and stew the Veal
gently till tender. Ornament the interior of a mould with
hard-boiled eggs, beetroot, and olives, all cut into different
shapes, and stuck on with half-set aspic jelly. Leave
the mould till the jelly has set. Drain the Veal when
cooked, trim off all the fat, chop it finely, and mix 1 pint
of liquid jelly with it. When the mince is nearly cold,
turn it carefully into the decorated mould, and leave it
till set. Turn the shape out of the mould on to a fancy
dish, garnish it with parsley, and serve.
(2) Trim off the outside of 6oz. of cold cooked Veal,
mince the meat, and mix with it 1 table-spoonful of
chopped raw bacon, a few shreds of ham, loz. of butter,
and one beaten egg. Season the mixture with pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg, and squeeze in a little lemon-juice. Shape
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, d-c., referred to, see under their special heads
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
717
V eal — continued.
the mixture into a loaf, smooth the surface over with the
blade of a knife, put it in a baking-dish, and bake it for
half-an-hour. When cooked, put the loaf on a hot dish,
and serve it with a sauceboatful of rich brown gravy ; or,
if preferred, leave it till cold, and cut it in slices.
(3) Trim off all the fat and skin from about IJlb. of Veal,
mince the lean finely, and mix with it a third of its quantity
of finely -chopped bacon. Soak a thick slice of bread in 1
teacupful of rich beef gravy, then mix it with the meat, with
the beaten yolks of two eggs, seasoning with salt and
pepper. Turn the mixture into a baking-dish, press it
down firmly, and bake it for an hour in a moderate oven.
When cooked and lightly browned, turn the bread out of
the mould on to a hot dish, and serve.
(4) Chop fine 41b. of raw Veal, mix with it Jib. of
crackers rolled to large crumbs, three eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls
of salt, 2 saltspoonfuls of pepper, and J saltspoonful of
powdered allspice. If the Veal is quite lean, add 1 table-
spoonful of butter. Put this mixture into a smooth
tin mould or pan, just large enough to contain it, set it
in a moderate oven, and bake it for two hours. When
cooked, let it cool in the pan, and then turn it out.
Serve cold in slices.
(5) American. — Take about 2lb. of Veal (the lean part
only) and parboil it ; then take it out and chop it up
fine with 4oz. of salt pork or bacon, and add four pounded
butter crackers, two well -beaten eggs, 1 saltspoonful of
pepper, half the quantity of grated nutmeg or mace,
and 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. Add sufficient of the liquor
in which the Veal was cooked to moisten it, shape it to
an oval loaf, put it into a shallow tin baking-pan, pour
in a little more of the Veal broth, and put it into the
oven to bake. Baste frequently, and when it is of a
brown colour take it out, let it get cold, cut it into
slices, and serve. If raw Veal be used, it must be baked
for two hours or so.
(6) Choose a knuckle or any bony piece of Veal that
has a large quantity of gelatine in it, and chop it into
small pieces. Take out all the very small pieces of bone,
put the meat into a saucepan with sufficient cold water
to cover it, and boil it quickly for a few minutes ; then
add one onion cut in slices, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, and
1 teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer at the side of the
fire until all the gristly parts are dissolved and the meat
will come easily away from the bone, and the liquor is
reduced to J pint. Take out the meat, remove the bones
and strain the liquor, adding a little lemon juice, sage or
thyme salt, and pepper, to season it. Cut the meat up,
and add 2 table-spoonfuls of sifted cracker- or bread-crumbs
and the meat liquor. Mix well, place it in a bread-pan
in a cool place to harden, cut it into slices, and serve.
Veal Mulligatawny Soup— Cut the best part of 4lb. of
breast of Veal into small pieces, and put the remainder
with the trimmings into a saucepan with 2qts. of water
and a few whole black peppers and allspice. When the
liquor boils, remove the scum, and let it continue boiling
gently for one-hour-and-a-half. Peel and slice three or
four onions, and fry them with the pieces of Veal in
butter. V hen lightly browned, put them in a saucepan,
strain the broth over them, and simmer gently for half-
an-hour, keeping it well skimmed. Mix 2 table -spoonfuls
each of curry powder and flour smoothly with a small
quantity of cold water, and stir it into the soup, season-
ing to taste with salt. When the Veal is tender, turn it
with the soup into a tureen, and serve with a dish of
plain boiled rice.
Veal Olives. — (1) Cut an equal quantity of thin slices
of lean Veal and bacon, and trim them to one size.
Partially boil one or two onions, then drain them and
mince them finely. Cover each slice of Veal with a
slice of bacon, strew over them some of the minced
onion, season with salt and pepper to taste and a small
quantity of powdered sweet herbs, and roll them up
tightly, tying them round with a piece of fine twine or
thread. Put a piece of butter in a stewpan over the
fire; when it boils put in the olives, and fry them
until nicely browned ; then drain them and remove the
V eal — continued.
twine. Peel and slice two or three onions, put them in
the stewpan in which the olives were fried, with more
butter if necessary, dredge them over with Hour, and fry
them a golden brown ; then put in a few mushroom
trimmings and sweet herbs, moisten them with a sufficient
quantity of clear gravy to cover the olives, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and place the sauce over the
fire until it boils. Next strain it through a fine sieve,
return it to the saucepan with the olives, and keep them
simmering gently at the side of the fire till ready. When
the olives are cooked, place them on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over them, garnish with small sippets of toast or
croutons of bread nicely fried in butter, and serve.
(2) Cut the Veal into strips 5in. long and 3in. broad,
and beat them with a rolling-pin to flatten them. Finely
chop a sufficient quantity of bacon with one-third of the
quantity of suet, and flavour it with a small quantity of
shallot, chives, grated lemon-peel, parsley, thyme, salt,
and pepper. The herbs must be finely chopped. Mix
in 1 teacupful of finely -grated breadcrumb, and suffi-
cient beaten egg to bind the whole. Spread the
mixture over the pieces of Veal, roll them up to an egg
shape, and bind them round with thread. Melt a large
piece of butter in a stewpan ; then dredge the olives
with flour, put them in the pan, and brown them all
over, dredging them occasionally with flour. When
browned, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the olives,
dust them over with salt and pepper, pour in 1 J pints of
water, and stew them gently at the side of the fire for
an hour. When cooked, take the olives out of the sauce-
pan, remove the binding- threads, place them on a hot
dish, strain their cooking- liquor over, and serve.
(3) Cut thin slices off the best part of a leg of Veal,
and trim them neatly to the shape of collops ; beat the
collops lightly on both sides, mb them over with a
seasoning of cloves, mace, salt, and pepper, and roll each
up separately in a thin slice of streaky bacon. Butter
the edges of a pie-dish, line them with a good paste,
and lay in the rolls of bacon, with thirty forcemeat balls,
four boned anchovies, three or four shallots, half-a-dozen
bearded oysters, and a peeled and sliced lemon ; moisten
to two-thirds of the height with equal quantities of white
wine and broth and a small quantity of rich gravy, and
put about 6oz. of butter broken in small pieces on the
top. Cover the whole with puff paste, trim it neatly
round the edges, moisten and press them together, and
bake the pie in a good oven. Serve either hot or cold.
(4) Take some thin cutlets of fillet of Veal, beat them
flat, cut them into pieces of a convenient size, and season
them with plenty of pepper, mace, grated lemon -peel, and
salt. Lay a piece of fat on each slice of Veal, roll the
Veal round it, tie it with a thread to keep it in shape,
and fry the rolls a light brown ; then put them into a
stewpan with 1 wineglassful of white wine, 1 table-
spoonful of lemon pickle, some small mushrooms, and a
couple of dozen fried oysters, and let them stew for
nearly an hour. Put the stew on to a dish, and serve,
first taking the threads off the rolls of Veal.
(5) Cut the Veal in rather thin slices off the fillet, and
spread over each some well-seasoned forcemeat. Roll the
slices up very tightly, secure them with small skewers,
and roll them in beaten egg and finely -grated breadcrumb,
giving them a good coating. Put a good-sized lump of
butter or lard in a flat stewpan, and when boiling put
in the rolls and fiy them until nicely browned. Drain
the butter off them, cover them with rich brown gravy,
and stew them gently. When cooked, put the olives on
a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve.
(6) Take six or eight Veal cutlets cut rather thin,
brush them over with beaten yolk of egg, season them to
taste, and then spread over them a layer of Veal force-
meat. Roll them up, tie them with fine twine to keep
them in shape, and fry them. Make some forcemeat balls
of Jib. of Veal chopped very fine, Jib. of suet chopped
fine, a small onion peeled and chopped fine, the yolks of
two hard-boiled eggs, mashed or chopped, a seasoning of
grated nutmeg and lemon peel, a very little powdered
mace, and pepper and salt. Mix all well together, and
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718
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
V eal — continued.
then stir them to a paste with the beaten yolks of two
eggs. Shape the paste into small halls, and fry them.
When the rolled Veal cutlets or olives are fried, put them
in a stewpan with an anchovy, a small quantity of pepper,
a blade of mace, and sufficient good gravy to nearly cover
them ; put in the forcemeat balls also, and let all boil
gently till the Veal is done. Take the Veal and 'the
forcemeat balls out, strain the gravy, and thicken it with
butter and flour. Lay the olives on a hot dish, cut the
string and remove it, lay the forcemeat balls round the
oli 'es, pour the gravy over, and serve hot.
(7) Trim off the fat from Hlb. of Veal, cut it into thin
strips about 3in. wide and 4in. long, and season them
with salt and pepper. Mix with 3 table- spoonfuls of
cracker -crumbs 4 teaspoonful of savory, 1 pinch of
sage, a little salt and pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of butter,
and 1 table -spoonful of water. Spread the above mixture
on the strips of Veal, roll them up, and tie them round
with twine. Dip the olives in flour and fry them till
brown in some pork-fat, then put them in a small sauce-
pan. Put 1 table spoonful of flour in the pan, with the
remainder of the fat that the olives were fried in, and
stir it over the fire till smooth and brown ; then pour in
gradually a little over 1 J pints of boiling water, season
to taste with pepper and salt, and stir it two or three
minutes longer. Pour the liquor into the saucepan over
the olives, and keep them simmering by the side of the
fire for two hours. When cooked, take the olives out of
the gravy, cut the strings, put them on a hot dish, pour
the gravy over them, and serve.
(8) Prepare a small quantity of Veal forcemeat. Cut
some slices < ft' a fillet of Veal, trim them, spread a layer
of the forcemeat on each, sprinkle over them some finely-
chopped oysters, and roll them up. Fasten the olives
with small skewers, put them in a Dutch oven, and roast
them in front of a clear fire, basting them occasionally
with butter. Prepare a ragout with a sweetbread and
some mushrooms and oysters, and turn it into the middle
of a hot dish. When nicely browned, put the olives
round the ragout, pour some rich gravy over them, and
serve.
Veal Olive Pie. — Dip some thin slices of Veal in beaten
yolk of egg. Mix some grated lemon peel with some bread-
crumbs, season them with grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper,
and roll the slices of Veal in them. Roll the pieces of Veal
up like olives, put them in a pie-dish, pour in about f
pint of rich gravy, put in two or three small pieces of
butter, line the edges of the pie-dish with a strip of
puff paste, and cover the top with puff paste. Brush the
pie over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake it for about
an hour and a half in a moderate oven. When cooked,
serve either hot or cold.
Veal Omelet Faupiettes. — (1) Chop very finely some
remains of cold Veal, dredge it over with flour, and season
it with grated lemon peel, nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and a
moderate quantity of lemon pickle. Put the mince into
a stewpan with loz. or a little more of butter, moisten it
with clear Veal gravy, and stir it over the fire until hot.
Prepare a good omelet hatter, and season it moderately
with salt and grated nutmeg. Put a lump of butter
in a frying-pan, and when it boils pour in a thin
layer of the batter and fry it ; fry the remainder of
the batter in the same way, but always be sure that the
butter is boiling befoie putting in the batter. Put about
2 table-spoonfuls of the Veal mixture in each and fold
them over ; cut them into lengths, place them side by side
in a frying-basket, put this into a stewpan of boiling lard,
and fry until well browned. Drain the paupiettes for a
minute on a sheet of kitchen-paper, then arrange them on
a hot dish over which has been spread a fancy dish-paper,
garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 966), and serve.
(2) German. — Put a little more than 1 teacupful of
flour into a basin, season it with a little salt and pounded
mace, and stir in gradually, keeping it quite smooth, six
well-beaten eggs and f pint of milk ; then strain the mix-
ture through a fine hair sieve. Put a lump of butter in
a large frying-pan and melt it ; then pour in a little of
the batter at a time, keeping it as tbin as possible. As
each omelet is cooked, turn it out, cut it square, and let
it cool. Cut the meat off a cooked fillet of Veal into
small pieces, put them in a mortar, and pound them.
Chop and pound ill), of ham. Fry six chickens’ livers in
butter, then chop and pound them. Mix all the above
together. Stir the beaten yolks of two eggs and the white
of one in with the pounded meat, then pass the mixture
through a sieve. Spread the mixture over the omelets,
divide them into strips 4in. long and lin. wide, and roll
them up. Butter a saute -pan, and lay the paupietttes in
it, side by side. Pour a little clarified butter over them,
cover them with finely -grated breadcrumb, and bake them
in a moderate oven for a-quarter of-an hour. When
cooked, take the paupiettes out, put them on an orna-
mental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve.
Veal-and-Qyster Pie. — (1) Cut lib. of neck of Veal into small
pieces, put them in a saucepan, cover them with water,
and stew them for an hour. Cut 2oz. of pork into small
pieces, put them in with the Veal, and add one chopped
onion, 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, 1 table-spoon-
ful of thickening, salt and pepper, and 1 teacupful of
milk. Cook the mixture for twenty minutes longer, then
turn it into a shallow dish, put a breakfast-cupful of
oysters over the top, dredge in some pepper, salt, and flour,
and cover the pie with a common pie-crust. Bake the pie
for about half an- hour, and serve it either hot or cold.
(2) Cut about Hlb. of Veal into small squares, put a
layer of minced ham on each, season them with grated
lemon-peel, pepper, and salt, and roll them up. Butter
the edge of a pie-dish and line it with puff paste, put
in a layer of the rolls, cover them with oysters, put in
more rolls of Veal, which cover with oysters, and so
on till the dish is full. Put 1 teacupful of gravy in a
saucepan with the liquor of the oysters and the grated
peel of half a lemon, and stir it over the fire till boiling ;
then pour it over the pie, and season with pepper and
salt. Cover the pie with a flat of putt' paste, moistening
it and trimming it off at the edges, and making a small hole
in the top. Ornament the pie according to fancy, brush
it over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake it for about one-
hour and a half in a moderate oven. When cooked, pour
some gravy in the pie through the hole in the top, and
serve either hot or cold.
Veal-and-Parsley Pie. -Cut some steaks from a neck or leg of
Veal. Put at the bottom of a pie dish a layer of chopped
boiled parsley, over this a layer if Veal, then parsley
again, and continue adding alternate layers of chopped
boiled parsley and s ices of Veal till the dish is full. Put
in as much good well -seasoned stock as the dish will hold
without being tilled to the brim. Lay a narrow strip of
puff paste or short-crust on the edge of the dish to cover
it, put a cover of puff paste or short crust over the pie,
moisten the edges slightly, press them lightly together, and
trim them. Bake in a moderately hot oven.
Veal Patties. — (1) Mince 341b. cf leg of Veal and Jib. of
salt pork. Roll half-a-dozen soda crackers, anil sift them.
Mix with the minced meat 1 table-spoonful each of salt
and black pepper, one grated nutmeg, and two well beaten
eggs. Mould the mixture into small oval shapes, put them
in a baking dish, sprinkle the cracker-crumbs over the
top, put a few small pieces of butter over them, and
pour in 4 teacupful of water. Bake the patties in a
quick oven, basting them frequently. When cooked, put the
For details respecting Ordinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, <kc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
719
Veal — continued.
patties on a hot dish, garnish them with fried parsley,
and serve with a sauceboatful of clear gravy.
(2) Make some puff paste, give it four turns, set it on
ice to harden, and then roll it out twice, leaving it the
last time about lin. thick. Keep the paste in the ice-chest
till very firm, then put it on the paste-hoard or table,
and roll it to fin. in thickness. Cut the paste into
rounds with a tin cutter 3 lin. in diameter. Dip a tin cutter
2i-in. in diameter in hot water, and with it cut about
two-thirds through each of the rounds of paste. Put
them in pans, and bake them in a very quick oven for
ten minutes ; then cool the oven a little and bake them for
twenty minutes longer. Put about fib. of cooked Veal,
cut into small pieces, in a saucepan with 4 pint of white
sauce and 1 teaspoonful of lemon- juice, and stir the
mixture over the fire till boiling. When the patties are
cooked, take them out of the oven, lift off the pieces
that were cut out, and scoop out the uncooked paste
underneath with a teaspoon ; then fill the hollow with
the prepared Veal, and put the covers on again. Arrange
the patties on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper
on a hot dish, garnish them with parsley, and serve.
(3) Make some puff paste, and line some patty-tins
with it. Have some cold roasted Veal very finely minced
with half the quantity of ham also finely minced, season
with a little grated lemon-peel, grated nutmeg, and salt
and pepper, and moisten with some Veal gravy and a
little milk. Put 1 table-spoonful of this into each of the
paste-lined tins, and bake in a quick oven. Serve hot
in the tins they were baked in ; or, if preferred cold, take
them out of the tins, arrange them on a dish, and garnish
with parsley.
Veal Paupiettes. — (1) Cut some thin cutlets from a fillet
of Vea1, and beat them flat and even. Mince a little
Veal very fine, mix it with some of the kidney-fat
chopped very fine, and six anchovies chopped fine also, and
adding a little salt, powdered mace, and ginger. Put this
mixture over the slices of Veal, and roll them up. Beat
up an egg, dip the rolled slices into it, and then dip them
into sifted breadcrumbs. Let them stand for a-quarter-of-an-
liour or twenty minutes, then egg them again, roll them
in breadcrumbs, and fry them a golden brown in boiling
lard or clarified dripping. Stew them then in some rich gravy
with | pint of white wine and a little walnut pickle.
(2) Cut some thin slices of Veal off a fillet, flatten them
with the blade of a knife, and roll them in beaten egg.
Prepare some Veal forcemeat, put a layer of it on each
slice, roll them up, anil tie them round with twine. Brush
the rolls of Veal over with beaten egg, and coat them
thickly with breadcrumbs. Butter a baking-dish, put in
the meat, and bake for lialf-an hour in a quick oven.
Put 1 pint of rich gravy in a saucepan with a few washed
truffles and pickled mushrooms, and boil it. Put the
meat on a hot dish, garnish it with fried Veal forcemeat
balls, pour the sauce and mushrooms over it, and serve.
Veal Pie. — (1) Remove the sinewy skin from about 41b. of
the cushion of Veal, cut half of the meat into rather
large square-shaped pieces, and chop the remainder. Mix
with the chopped meat a little more than its quantity of
chopped fresh bacon and 4 table-spoonfuls of lean cooked
ham, also finely chopped. Lard the large pieces of Veal
with fillets of raw ham and bacon, and season with
spices. Put Jib. of chopped bacon -fat into a stewpan, and
melt it ; then put in the larded cakes, and fry them for
about fifteen minutes over a quick fire. Pour in with
the pieces of meat 1 wineglassful of white wine, and boil
it till reduced ; then turn the meat into a basin, and leave
it till cold. Butter the inside of an oblong-shaped cold
pie-mould, line it with short-paste, then spread a layer
of the minced meat at the bottom and round the sides.
Fill the pie with the larded Veal and some boiled bacon
cut into moderate-sized pieces, raising it to a dome. Cover
the meat with a thin flat of short-paste, trimming it evenly
round the edges and pressing them together, then stick
a flat of puff paste on the top, notch it, and brush it
over with beaten egg. Put the pie in a rather slack
oven, and lialf-an-hour later cover it with a sheet of
Veal — continued.
buttered paper, baking it for two hours in all. When
cooked, take the pie out of the oven, pour in through the
top a little more than 1 teacupful of liquid aspic jelly,
and leave it till cold. This pie is better when served on
the following day.
(2) Chop and pound in a mortar 41b. each of minion
fillet of Veal and chicken -flesh, and mix with them one
beaten egg. Pick and chop 21b. of Veal kidney-suet, put
it in a mortar, and pound it ; then mix it with the meat,
and pound all to a paste. Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of c'houx-
paste, without sugar, and another egg. When quite smooth,
take the mixture out of the mortar, and keep it on ice
for an hour. Take two-thirds of the forcemeat, and with
two table spoons mould it into quenelles. Poach the
quenelles in boiling salted water, and when set chain
them on a cloth. Butter a hot pie mould, line it with
short- paste, then coat the paste with a thin layer of the
forcemeat. Arrange the quenelles in the hollow of the
mould in rings, alternating each of them with a
slice of raw peeled truffle. Cut some sweetbreads into
scollops, fry them lightly in butter, then fill the mould
with them and some sliced truffles, building them in a
dome-like fashion. Put a few thin slices of bacon on the
top, then cover the pie with a round of short- paste, trim
it off at the edges, moisten them with a little water, and
pinch them together. Make a slight incision in the
centre of the pie, ornament the top with leaves cut out
of paste, brush it over with beaten egg, and put it in a
moderate oven to bake for an hour. When cooked, take
the pie out of the mould, slip it on -to a hot dish, lift the
cover off, take out the bacon, pour in a small quantity
of Madeira wine, replace the cover, and serve.
(3) Trim the skin and sinewy part off lib. of lean Veal,
chop the meat, put it into a mortar with 21b. of chopped
Veal kidney- suet, and pound them ; then season with salt,
pepper, and grated nutmeg, and stir in a beaten egg.
Set the forcemeat on ice for lialf-an-hour. Prepare a short-
paste with fib. of butter and 2lb. of flour. Butter the
inside of a hot pie-mould, stand it on a baking-sheet, and
line it with the paste. Mix \ teacupful of chopped claves
with the forcemeat, then fill the mould with it, building
it to a dome ; put a flat of paste on the top, trim it off
round the edges, moisten them with a little water, and
press them together. Brush the pie over with a paste
brush dipped in beaten egg, and bake it in a moderate
oven for three-quarters-of-an-hour. When cooked, take the
mould off the pie and slip it on to a hot dish ; with a
small knife make a hole in the centre, and remove two-
thirds of the forcemeat, thus leaving a cavity, which fill
with a ragout of chopped cooked lamb’s sweetbreads and
mushrooms that have been mixed with a little reduced
brown sauce. Put the paste cover on the pie again, and
serve.
(4) Lay in the bottom of a pie-dish some thin slices of
Veal, sprinkle them with a little chopped parsley, chopped
sage and thyme, a little salt and white pepper, and a
very little cayenne ; over this lay a few slices of ham and
a few forcemeat balls, then some thin slices of Veal,
which season as before, then slices of ham and forcemeat
balls, and so on till the dish is almost full ; then add the
yolks of five hard-boiled eggs and some good Veal stock.
Make some light puff paste, lay a strip of it round the
edge of the pie-dish, and cover the pie with puff paste,
for details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
720
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal — continued.
pressing it on to the strip of paste laid on the edge of
the dish. Make a hole in the centre of the crnst with
the blade of a knife. Bake for an hour, and just before
serving pour 1 teacupful of cream through the hole in the
top by means of a funnel. Set the pie-dish on a flat dish
covered with a folded napkin (see Fig. 967), and serve.
(0) Fill a pie-dish with alternate layers of slices of the meat
oft' a knuckle of Veal and ham, putting on each layer of
Veal a seasoning of pepper and salt and a few slices of
hard-boiled eggs. Pour in some gravy made from Veal-
bones flavoured with a little mushroom powder and a
very little cucumber ketchup, put on a cover of either
short-crust or puli' paste, and bake.
(6) Put into a pie-dish two sweetbreads sliced and
seasoned with a mixture of salt, pepper, a little grated
nutmeg, and a very little powdered clove, and put in also
some steaks cut oil' a knuckle of Veal. The steaks should
be cut without any bone, and they should be seasoned
with the same mixture of spice as the sweetbreads. Put
in among the meat the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and a
few oysters. When the dish is filled, cover the meat with
thin slices of ham, and half till the dish with stock made
of Veal-bones. Lay a strip of puff paste on the edge of
the dish wide enough to cover it, brush this paste over
with a little water, put a cover of puff paste over the
pie, trim the edges, and press them lightly together ; cut
a hole or slit in the middle of the crust, and conceal it
by laying an ornament made of the paste on top. When
the pie is baked and taken from the oven, pour in enough
veal gravy, mixed with a little cream and nicely thick-
ened with flour, to fill up the pie. It may be poured in
through a funnel inserted in the hole cut in the pie-crust.
Replace the ornament when the gravy is in.
(7) Cut into small pieces the meat of a cold cooked loin
of Veal, and season it with salt, pepper, grated lemon-
peel, and nutmeg, and a moderate quantity of finely-
minced parsley. Stew the bones of the Veal in 1 pint
of stock until the liquor is reduced to a little less than
f pint, then strain it, pour it into a stewpan in which
has been mixed loz. of butter and 1 table -spoonful of
flour, and add 1 teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and about h
wineglassful of white wine. Take in equal quantities
some loin of Veal-fat and flour, rub them together till
smooth, then mix to a paste with water. Roll the paste
out on a floured board, fold it over, roll it out again,
and line the sides of a buttered pie-dish with some of it.
When the gravy has boiled and thickened, mix it with
the Veal and turn it into the pie-dish. Roll out the trim-
mings of the paste into a thin flat, cover the pie with it,
moisten and press the edges together, and bake it in a
moderate oven. To glaze the pie, brush it over with
beaten white of egg before baking it.
(8) Select a piece of knuckle of Veal with the gristle
adhering to it, put it in a saucepan with Veal stock to
cover, and stew it until like a jelly. Let the meat cool,
then cut it as well as the gristle into small pieces. Butter a
mould, put in the hard-boiled yolks, then the pieces of meat
and gristle ; cut the whites of twelve eggs into rings, and
lay them ornamentally in the mould ; put here and there a
few small pieces of beetroot, the red part of a carrot, and
some green pickles ; season well with grated nutmeg, salt
and pepper, and moisten to height with the gravy in which
the Veal was boiled. Put the pie in the oven, and bake
it for half-an hour. When cooked, leave it until quite
cold. Spread a fancy dish-paper or a napkin over a dish,
turn the shape out of the mould on to it, garnish with a
few sprigs of well-washed and dried parsley, and serve.
(9) Use cold cooked Veal, trim oil' all the fat and skin,
mince the lean as finely as possible, and mix with it
about a quarter o its quantity of finely minced bacon,
the grated rind of one lemon, small or large, according
to the quantity of the meat, and a small quantity of the
juice. Season the mixture to taste with salt, mace, and
a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Butter the edges of
a pie-dish, and line them with a good puff paste. Beat
the yolks of three or four eggs up with the mince, put it
into the pie-dish, cover with a flat of the same paste,
trim it neatly round the edges, moisten them with a little
V eal — continued.
beaten white of egg, and press them together. Bake the
pie in a moderate oven, and serve it either hot or cold.
Veal Pie a la Franqaise. — Trim off the skin from some
cold remains of roast Veal, and mince the meat as finely
as possible with the third of its quantity of ham. Open
and beard two dozen oysters, mix them with the Veal,
season the mixture with powdered mace, grated lemon-
peel, salt and pepper, and a few drops of mushroom
ketchup, and moisten it with the strained liquor of the
oysters and a moderate quantity of rich brown gravy.
Prepare a nice puff paste, line a buttered pie-dish with
it, put in the above mixture, cover with a flat of paste,
trim it oft' neatly round the edges, moisten them with a
little water, and pinch them together. Bake the pie for
about half-an-hour, or until the paste is cooked, and serve.
Veal Pot-Pie. — (1) Cut 21b. of the breast of Veal into
pieces about lin. square. After wiping the pieces of meat
with a damp towel, put them over the fire in 2qts. of
cold water, with three cloves, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and
a dozen peppercorns or a small red pepper, and let it
slowly reach the boiling-point, removing all scum as it
rises. When the broth is quite free from scum, cover the
saucepan containing it, and set it where its contents can
simmer gently for about two hours. Meanwhile peel lqt.
of small potatoes, and lay them in cold water ; at the end
of two hours put them with the Veal to boil. Then
quickly sift together lqt. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt,
and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and mix them to a
soft dough with about 1 pint t f cold milk or water, using
no more than is required to just wet the flour. Put this
dough at once into the saucepan with the Veal and
potatoes, either in one flat piece laid on the top of these
ingredients, or in table-spoonfuls, wetting the spoon in the
broth before using it to form each dumpling. Cover the
saucepan, and boil its contents steadily for twenty
minutes. Then serve the pot-pie hot. If the gravy is
liked rather rich, stir into it the yolks of a couple of
raw eggs before sending to table. In the old-fashioned
pot-pie, which was cooked by the general heat of a
moderate lire of wood, the entire bottom and sides of the
dinner-pot in which it was made were lined with the
crust, and the meat, already partly cooked, was put into
the crust. With the moderate heat it was possible to
brown the crust without burning it, but with our modern
cooking apparatus this would be a doubtful experiment to
attempt.
(2) Cut up 2lb. or 3lb. of Veal from the breast or scrag
into small pieces or chops, and put it into a saucepan,
adding water to cover and ^lb. of salt pork, or 1 table-
spoonful of salt. Boil gently, removing the scum as it
rises, until the meat is tender. Place the whole in a
dish to cool, and make a crust as follows : Take lqt. of
flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful of
salt, 1 teaspoonful of ammonia or bicarbonate of soda,
and a small piece of butter, and mix with milk. Roll
out the dough, and line the inside of the pot with it,
reserving enough to cover, and also a small quantity to
be cut into squares, to be placed inside. Strain the
water in which the meat was boiled, and put it in the
pot with the meat. If there is not enough to nearly
reach the top of the side crust, add more water, drop in
the bits of paste or dough, dredge in 1 table-spoonful of
flour, add Jib. of butter in pieces, put in a large
teaspoonful of pepper, then lay some skewers across from
one side of the crust to the other, put on the top crust,
and make a slit in the centre to let out the steam.
Cover the pot close, set it over a moderate fire, and cook
for three quarters-of an hour, taking care that the fire is
not so fierce as to burn it. Half-a-dozen small potatoes
may be put into the pie with the meat. Dish the top
crust up first, then take up the meat and gravy on
another dish, and lastly the brown crust from the sides
on a dish with some of the gravy over ; or take the
meat into the centre of the dish, put the crust round it,
and pour the gravy over.
Veal-and-Fotato Rissoles.— (1) Boil lib. of potatoes till
soft, then strain and mash them. Finely chop some cold
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
ARTISTIC CENTRE-PIECES.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
72]
Veal — continued.
roast Veal and two hard-boiled eggs, and mix them
with the potatoes. Beat the yolk of an egg, stir it in
with the above ingredients, then add the well-whisked
white. Divide the above mixture into small portions, and
mould them into balls. Brush the balls over with beaten
yolk of egg, put them in a Dutch oven, and brown them
in front of a clear fire. When cooked, put the balls on
a folded table-napkin or ornamental dish-paper, garnish
them with parsley, and serve.
(2) Boil two eggs hard and chop them fine ; mix with
them fib. of mashed potatoes, a seasoning of chopped
parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and some finely-
minced cold chicken or Veal, and stir them well together;
then mix them to a paste with the beaten yolk of an
egg, and the white beaten separately to a stiff froth and
stirred in afterwards. Make the paste into balls, brush
them over with the beaten yolk of an egg, roll them in
a paper of breadcrumbs, and brown them in a Dutch
oven before the fire.
Veal-and-Fotato Salad. — Cut into small pieces an equal
quantity of cold cooked Veal and boiled potatoes, and
put them in a salad-bowl with a little chopped celery.
Mix together J teacupful of salad-oil and J teacupful of
vinegar, and season it with a small quantity of pepper,
salt, and mustard. Pour the dressing over the salad, and
serve.
Veal Pudding. — Cut some lean Veal into small thin
squares, put them in a frying-pan with three or four
rashers of bacon and a little clarified butter, add a little
thyme, and dust in a little pepper and salt. Fry the Veal
for fifteen minutes, then pour in h teacupful of water,
and boil it ; then take the pan off the fire, and leave the
Veal till cool. Make a good suet-crust, and line a
buttered pudding-basin until it, put in the Veal and
ham, and pour in the gravy. Cover the pudding with a
flat of crust, moistening and pressing the edges together,
then tie the basin in a cloth, put it in a saucepan of
boiling water, and keep it boiling for an hour. When
cooked, untie the cloth, turn the pudding out of the
basin on to a dish, and serve.
Veal Ragoflt. — (1) Cut some cutlets from a cold roasted
fillet, loin, or neck of Veal, flour them, and fry them a
light brown in boiling butter or dripping, then take them
from the pan. Put 1 pint of boiling water or stock into
the frying-pan, and let it boil up for one minute. Put
into a saucepan over the fire about loz. of butter, and
let it melt while the gravy from the frying-pan is
strained. When the butter is melted, add to it as much
flour as will dry it up, and stir it over the fire for a few
minutes ; add to it by degrees the strained gravy from
the frying-pan, and let it boil for ten minutes ; add to it
2 table-spoonfuls of wine or mushroom ketchup, pepper
and salt to taste, and a little mace. Put the meat into
a stewpan, strain this gravy over it, and let it simmer
very gently till the meat is quite warmed through. A
few slices of cold boiled bacon may be warmed up at the
same time in the gravy with the meat.
(2) Cut about 31b. of Veal into small pieces. Put 3
table -spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with 3 table
spoonfuls of flour, and stir it over the fire till smooth and
brown ; then put in the meat, and fry it till well browned.
Put a bunch of sweet herbs in with the meat, and pour
in lqt. of water. When boiling, move the saucepan to
the side of the fire, and keep the liquor simmering. Cut
a large turnip into small cubes, put them in a frying-pan
with one large sliced onion and Jib. of butter, and fry
them till nicely browned ; then put them in with the
meat, season with salt and pepper, and let it simmer
two-hours and -a half longer. Put some plain boiled rice
or macaroni on a hot dish, turn the ragout on to it, and
serve it while very hot.
Veal Ragoflt a la Chef de Cuisine. — Cut some slices off
the leg of Veal, trim them, beat them lightly, and dip
them in beaten yolk of egg. Mix a small quantity of
minced Veal, 2 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped beef-suet,
and half a dozen chopped oysters, seasoning with powdered
mace, cloves, and nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt.
V eal — continued.
Put a layer of the forcemeat over each of the slices, roll
them up, tie them with twine, fix them on the spit, and
roast them in front of a clear fire. Mix a beaten egg
with the forcemeat, divide it into small portions, and
mould them into little balls. Put a lump of butter into
a frying-pan, and melt it ; then put in the forcemeat
balls, and fry them till lightly and equally brow-ned. Put
1 oz. of butter in a saucepan with 1 table-spoonful of flour,
stir them over the fire till well mixed but not browned,
then pour in £ pint of gravy and 1 wineglassful of white
wine, add one anchovy and one shallot, and continue
stirring it over the fire until boiling. When cooked, cut
the string oft' the rolls of Veal, put them on a hot dish
with the forcemeat balls, pour the sauce over them,
garnish with slices of lemon, and serve.
Veal Ragoflt a la Turque. — Cut some loin of Veal into
small pieces, put them into an earthenware stewpan, with
three sliced onions, three heads of garlic, a small quantity
of cumin, salt and pepper, and \ breakfast-cupful of
vinegar. Put the lid on the pan, lute it round the edges
with flour-and-water paste so that no steam shall escape,
put it at the side of the fire, and let the contents cook
gently from three to four hours. When the meat is tender,
turn the stew on to a hot dish, and serve.
Veal Rissoles. — Finely mince 111), of Veal and Jib. of suet.
Soak 21b. of breadcrumbs in a little milk till soft, mix
them with the Veal and suet, season with a little pounded
mace, pepper, and salt, and bind with the beaten yolks of
one or two eggs. Mould the mixture into small balls,
brush them over with clarified butter, and cover them
thickly with breadcrumbs. Put a lump of butter in a
frying-pan, and melt it ; then put in the rissoles, and fry
Fig. 968. Veai. Rissoles.
them till nicely brow-ned all over. Drain the rissoles, put
them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish- paper on a
hot dish, garnish them with fried parsley (see Fig. 968), and
serve them with a sauceboatful of rich brown gravy.
Veal Rolls. — (1) Take some rather thin Veal cutlets with-
out bone or fat, score and chop them on one side a little,
and rub the side that has been chopped and cut with the
beaten yolk of an egg. Spread a layer of Veal forcemeat
over them, roll each one up tight, bind it firmly with fine
twine, brush them over with the beaten yolk of egg, roll
them in a paper of breadcrumbs, lay them in a buttered
pie-vlish, put them into a hot oven, and bake for half-an-
liour. Pour over them some good brown gravy with some
pickled mushrooms boiled in it, and serve hot.
(2) Cut either fresh or previously cooked Veal into very
thin slices. Mix with some grated breadcrumb in small
quantities some chopped suet, grated ham, finely-minced
parsley and shallot, and a few stewed and minced mush-
rooms. Season the mixture with salt and pepper, also a
small quantity of pounded mace, and spread it over the
slices of Veal. Roll the slices up and tie them tightly
round with twine. Lay the rolls side by side in a stew--
pan, moisten to height with gravy ami a couple of wdneglass-
fuls of sherry, and stew them very gently until tender.
V hen cooked, lay the rolls on a hot dish, skim and pour
their cooking-sauce over them, garnish with croutons of
fried bread, and serve.
Veal Sandwiches. — Chop some cold roast Veal, and put it
in a mortar with some salt, pepper, and a small quantity
of tarragon vinegar. Cut some hard-boiled eggs into
slices, remove the yolks, being careful not to break the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fee., referred to, see under their special heads
3 A
VOL. II.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
m
Veal — continued.
rings of white, put them in the mortar with the Veal,
and pound them well. Spread a little mixed mustard
over some slices of bread, then lay the white rings of egg
on them, and fill each ring with the pounded mixture.
Cover them with slices of bread, and press them lightly
together. Cut the sandwiches into halves, and serve
them.
Veal Sausages. — (1) Chop 21b. of Veal very fine, carefully
picking from it all skin and sinew, mix with it lib. of
finely chopped beef-suet, and season it well with salt,
pepper, chopped parsley, thyme, and marjoram. Put the
mixture into well-cleaned skins, and tie them at intervals
with fine twine.
(2) Put some lean Veal and an equal quantity of fat
bacon into a mortar with an anchovy or two and some
sage, pound and beat them to a paste, mixing all evenly
together, and seasoning with salt and pepper. When re-
quired for use, form it into sausages, and fry them. Serve
on stewed vegetables, or with white collops, or with fried
sippets of bread.
Veal Shape. — Put ljlb. of Veal in a saucepan with one or
two onions, a small stick of celery, a carrot, a bunch of
sweet herbs tied together, and salt and pepper to taste ;
pour in sufficient cold water to cover it, put the lid on,
and stew gently at the side of the fire until tender but
not too much done. Ornament the interior of a mould
with slices of hard boiled eggs, fancy shaped pieces of
beetroot and pieces of olives, sticking them in with liquid
aspic jelly, and leave them until set. When cooked, drain the
Veal, free it from all skin and fat, and mince it finely ; then mix
it up with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of the liquid jelly, and leave
it until half cold. Next place the mince in the mould,
being careful not to disturb the decoration, and leave it
for a few hours in a cold place. When ready to serve,
dip the mould in hot water, taking it out again quickly,
wipe it, turn the contents on to a dish over which has
been spread a folded napkin or a fancy dish -paper, and
garnish with parsley and rings of tongue.
Veal Soup. — (1) Cut the meat off a knuckle of Veal, break
the bones, put them into a saucepan with 4qts. of water,
and stew them to make a broth. Cut the meat into small
pieces, put them in an earthenware jar with Alb. of lean ham,
also cut in pieces, four sliced carrots, two sliced turnips,
a head of celery cut up, and \ table -spoonful of pepper-
corns. Put a cover on the jar, and stand it in the oven
till the vegetables begin to get soft and the gravy drawn
from the meat. Strain the broth off the bones into the
jar of meat, add 1 teacupful of well-washed rice, put the
lid on the jar again, and cook the contents for four hours
in a slow oven. Pass the soup through a fine hair sieve
and keep it in a cool place till the following day ; then
skim off all the fat. Put the soup in a saucepan with
2oz. of boiled vermicelli, and boil it up ; then turn it into
a soup-tureen, and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast
or croutons of fried bread.
(2) Put lib. of lean Veal cut in small pieces into a
stewpan with a knuckle broken in pieces, and 3 pints of
cold water. When boiling, remove all the scum that may
have formed on the top of the liquor, add a turnip, peeled
and cut into small pieces, move the saucepan to the edge
of the fire, and let the soup simmer gently for five hours.
Soak loz. of tapioca in cold water. Strain the soup,
return it to the saucepan, put in the soaked tapioca, and
boil it for fifteen minutes, stirring all the time. Beat
the yolks of two eggs with 1 teacupful of cream, then
stir in gradually a small quantity of the soup. Move the
remainder of the soup to the edge of the fire, then stir
the mixed eggs in quickly, seasoning to taste with salt
and pepper. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve it
with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried
bread.
(3) Put into the soup-pot 61b. of the knuckle of Veal,
Jib. of lean ham or bacon, six medium-sized peeled onions,
two heads of washed and trimmed white celery, two slices
of crumb of bread, a small quantity of whole white pepper,
three blades of mace, a bunch of well-washed parsley, a
sprig of thyme, and loz. of whole blanched almonds ; pour
Veal — continued.
over them lgall. of water, and let it simmer for eight
hours. Strain it, let it stand till quite cold, and then
remove all the fat. Boil it up, remove it from the fire,
and stir in by degrees 1 pint of rich cream. Pour it
into a tureen, and serve.
Veal Stock or Blond de Veau. — (1) Melt a little butter
in a stewpan, then put in four sliced onions, 41b. of leg
of Veal, 21b. of gravy beef, and two old fowls off which the
flesh has been cut. Pour in 1 pint of stock, stand the
stewpan over the fire, and boil the moisture down to a
glaze ; then pour in 5qts. of stock, and put in a
heaped table-spoonful of salt. When boiling, skim the
stock, put in some carrots and leeks, and let it simmer
gently for four hours by the side of the fire. Strain the
stock through a broth-napkin, leave it till cool, then skim
off all the fat. Trim the fat oft’ and chop the flesh of
the fowls finely, put it in a mortar, and pound it to a
pulp ; then put it in a large stewpan, mix in first a
small quantity of Veal stock, and then add the rest.
Stand the stewpan over the fire, stir the contents till boil-
ing, then move it to the side, and let them simmer for
ten minutes. If quite clear at the end of that time,
strain the stock through a broth-napkin, to be kept till
wanted.
(2) Cut about ljlb. of lean Veal into small pieces, put them
in a stewpan with three peeled and sliced onions, and a
good-sized lump of butter, and toss them over the fire
until nicely browned. Chop Jib. of ham, put it in with
the Veal, pour in 1J pints of cold clear stock that has been
perfectly freed of fat, and boil it until reduced almost to
a glaze. Next put in the saucepan two cow-heels that
have been cut up into convenient-sized pieces, two peeled
carrots, a head of celery that has been washed and cut
up into convenient lengths, a few sprigs of thyme and
parsley, a bay-leaf or two, and a blade of mace. Pour in
2qts. of cold clear stock, season to taste with salt and
pepper, and boil the whole gently for two or three hours.
Afterwards strain the stock into a basin, and when cold
skim off the fat. It is then ready for use.
Veal Tendons a la Frovensale. — Cut about 21b. of tendons
of Veal into small squares, put them in a stewpan witli
1 teacupful of salad oil, two large sliced onions, a chopped
clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme, and half a bay-leaf, dust
over a little salt and pepper, put the stewpan over a slow
fire, and keep the contents simmering for two hours,
stirring frequently. At the end of that time, pour A pint
of broth in with the tendons, add 2 table-spoonfuls of
chopped parsley, and boil them for ten minutes longer.
Arrange the tendons in a pile on a hot dish, strain the
cooking-liquor through a fine hair sieve over them, and
serve.
Veal Turnover. — Mince very line some cold roast Veal,
seasoning it with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg.
Beat up two eggs, and mix with them gradually J
pint of milk ; mix into this sufficient flour to make a
moderately stiff batter, mixing in also a seasoning of
chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Put 2oz. of butter over
the fire in a frying-pan, and when it is boiling hot, pour
in the batter ; as soon as it begins to set, lay the mince-
meat in the centre of it. Take care that the batter does
not burn, and do not let it fry too quickly. When it is
Fig. 969. Veal Turnover.
done on one side, fold the edges of the batter over to the
middle so as to enclose the meat (see Fig. 969), and then turn
it with a cake spatula. When it is quite done, slip it on
to a hot dish, taking it from the frying-pan with the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, tic., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
723
Veal — continued.
cake spatula. Serve hot, with a little good white gravy
in a small tureen.
Vol-au-Vent of Veal. — Mince some cold Veal, season it to
taste with grated lemon-peel, chopped parsley, salt, anil
pepper, put it into a stewpan with a moderate quantity
of white sauce, and stir it over the fire until hot. Make
sufficient puff paste, roll it out to about lin. in thickness,
and cut it to a round shape with a large tin cutter ; then
with a smaller cutter cut a circle half way through the
paste, brush round the edge of the paste with a paste-
brush dipped in beaten egg, and put it into a brisk oven
until well risen and nicely browned. When cooked, lift
the paste where it is marked round the circle, and scoop
out some of the soft part, making a hollow deep enough
to hold the minced Veal. Fill the vol-au-vent with the
mince, put it on a hot dish on which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish -paper, and serve.
VEGETABLES (Fr. Legumes ; Ger. Gemuse ; Ital.
Vegetabili ; Spi. Vegetables). — A great trouble seems to
exist amongst cooks and others in their efforts to define
the distinction between Vegetables and fruit. In a
culinary sense the distinction is somewhat simplified,
the term Vegetables being generally applied to those
articles which have grown in or about the earth, and are
cooked, or dressed uncooked, as savouries ; fruits, on the
contrary, are usually associated with sweets. Literally,
Fig. 970. Vegetable-washer (A. B. Marshall).
the term Vegetables, derived from the Latin Vegetare,
would include all things that grow from the earth as
members of the Vegetable Kingdom ; but in a more limited
sense, the term Vegetables might be applied to all those
edible growths that are included amongst our Vegetable
foods without being connected with the organs of
Vegetable reproduction, which are known, correctly speak-
ing, as fruits. This difficulty of distinction is very
patent when we remember that some fruits arc in a
culinary sense styled Vegetables, amongst those being
tomatoes, vegetable marrows, cucumbers, peas, beans,
&c. Then, again, the stalks of leaves known as
rhubarb, are esteemed as fruit amongst cooks. Nuts,
Fig. 971. Vegetable-peeler (Benham and Froud).
again, which are most correctly speaking the fruit of the
tree which bears them, are differently designated, when
they are numbered amongst the dishes of a dessert. They
are not Vegetables, they are nuts.
Vegetables — continued.
From the foregoing it will be understood that, from a
culinary point of view, it would be impossible to draw
any hard-and-fast line as to what should be called
Vegetables and what fruit.
Cooley tells us that “Vegetables are organic beings,
which are distinguished from animals by a number of
characteristics, but, like them, are composed of certain
Fig. 972. Vegetable Scoops or Spoons (A. Lyon).
proximate principles or compounds, which possess a high
degree of scientific interest, and in many cases are
invaluable to man. Among the most important of these
are : albumen, gluten, gum, lignin, starch, sugar, tannin,
wax, the fixed and volatile oils, the resins and gum-resins,
the alkaloids, and innumerable forms cf extractive
matter.”
Kettner supplies us with some very interesting observa-
tions on the subject as applied to the use of Vegetables
for food in this country. He has written : There are
no finer Vegetables to be found anywhere than in Eng-
land; and the English do not know how to eat them.
The weak point of an English dinner is always the Vege-
tables. Some persons might fix upon the made dishes as
Fig. 973. Vegetables in Fancy Shapes.
most wanting, but this would be wrong, seeing that we
could have a very good dinner without a single made dish.
As far as animal food can go there are some dinners quite
perfect, with a good soup, a little plain boiled fish, and
roast meat or game ; but the dinner fails because the
Vegetables are at fault.”
“I have observed,” says Walker, in a book written
by him, called the “Original,” “ that whenever the Vege-
tables are distinguished for their excellence the dinner
is always particularly enjoyed ; and if they were served
with each dish, as they are most appropriate and fresh
from the dressing, it would be a great improvement on the
present style. With some meats something of the kind is
practised, as peas with duck, and beans with bacon, and
such combinations are generally favourites, but the system
might be much extended, and with great advantage. With
respect to variety of Vegetables, I think the same rule
applies as to other dishes. I would not have many sorts
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 a 2
724
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vegetables — continu ed.
on the same occasion, but would study appropriateness
and particular excellence. This is a matter for study and
combination, and a field for genius. It is a reasonable
object for attention, as it is conducive to real enjoyment,
and has nothing to do with mere display.” This is very
true, and to tiie eye of the initiated nothing can be more
ridiculous than to see an English dinner-plate heaped up
with a confusion of Vegetables, none of them too well
dressed, except the potato, which is always present, and
generally good. Do those English worthies who cannot
now eat a morsel of food unless accompanied with a potato
ever try to imagine what dinners were two centuries
ago, when potatoes were as rare as truffles ?
Fig. 974. Spiral Vegetable-cutters.
Kettner goes much more deeply into the subject. He
observes : “ The great fault, however, of the English treat,
ment of Vegetables goes much deeper than Walker indi-
cates, and it is a moral fault, as well as one of taste — a great
social wrong, as well as a gastronomical blunder. Take the
genera] run of English tables, putting out of account the
very poor and the highly refined ; from one year’s end to
another one will probably never on a single day see there a
dish of Vegetables to be eaten alone. This is a political
error ; for there is many a poor man obliged most days to
dine on Vegetables with nothing else; while our sleek
middle-classes protest every day
of their lives against this fare
for themselves — they will never
condescend to eat a Vegetable
by itself. A fine example for
their servants, who are taken
from the poorer classes; and a
fine thought for the peasantry
to know that not only will their
masters refuse a V egetable din-
ner— but also they will never
look at a Vegetable as a thing
to be eaten by itself! Scorn
of the peasants’ food is all the
more remarkable inasmuch as
a vegetable dish may be the
greatest delicacy of the table.
This is one of the advantages
which the Catholic religion has
contrived for the French ; it has
compelled them to make the
best of Lenten fare. In Eng-
land this is flat Popery; but
it is a species of Popery to which the poor man is obliged
to submit, and to which we ought all to be converted.
At a French table the vegetable dish at the end of dinner
is as much coveted and counted on as the pudding and
tarts are by children at an English table. Almost the
only Vegetable which Englishmen eat by itself is the arti-
choke, and this entirely because it cannot be put on their
plates with meat and eaten with a fork — they have to
strip it with their fingers. There is something in aspa-
Fig. 975. Crulls.
Vegetables - continued.
ragus, too, which conduces to the same arrangement;
but if by any possibility, an Englishman can get the
asparagus on the same plate with his meat, depend upon
it, he will. He is not going to eat Vegetables alone —
not he !
“ Take this for a certainty : the greatest single step in
advance for the English family dinner is to decree that
Fig. 976. Position of Hands in Turning.
regularly every day, either in addition to the pudding or
in lieu of it, there shall be a dish of Vegetables nicely pre-
pared. It is not a difficult thing to do, and there is an
immense choice from the range of salads to asparagus,
artichokes, potatoes, cauliflowers, sprouts, peas, kidney-
beans, vegetable marrows, and thence again to rice and
Indian corn. Let the cook stick to her broils and her
roasts — she probably cannot in the way of meat do better
— but let her superadd to her small modicum of accom-
plishments the very simple craft of cooking Vegetables in
such a manner that with their own fine flavour they can be
eaten by themselves. This is
a very little thing to ask for,
but the results will be found
to be immense.”
From the foregoing re-
marks it is quite evident that
the cooking of Vegetables
might be regarded as a distinct
oooc»
Fig. 978. Vegetable-cutters
with Solid Handles
(A. Lyon).
Fig. 979. Vegetable-cutters
with Tube Handles
(Adams and Son).
branch of the culinary art. In large establishments it is
quite usual to engage a cook specially experienced in this
department, who, acting under the chef, is known as the
Vegetable cook. That the duties attached to this office
are°exceedingly important, requiring considerable intelli-
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , <Fc., referred £o, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
725
Vegetables — continued.
gence, will be understood from tbe following instruc-
tions.
In the first place the cook should see that the Vege-
tables are quite fresh, for, in spite of anything that
may be said to the contrary, all Vegetables, whether roots,
leaves, or any other kind, begin to lose bulk and flavour as
soon as they are removed from the ground. Those that
suffer the least in this respect are roots and tubers, such
as carrots and potatoes ; and those which suffer most are
leaves, stalks, and shoots, such as asparagus, sea-kale,
cabbages, and the like.
To clean Vegetables, they should be first soaked for
a time in salted water — cabbages and cauliflowers being
turned upside-down. In this way the flavour of the
Vegetables improves, and all insect life is removed. Next,
grit and dirt must be thoroughly washed out, and for this
purpose a wire sieve or basket (see Fig. 970) should be
used, which may be dipped again and again into a tub of
water, the Vegetables in it being shaken thoroughly and
rinsed. Root Vegetables offer the artistic cook a very
extensive scope for the exercise of skill and ingenuity, as
Fig. 981. Vegetable-cutters (A. B. Marshall).
may be seen in the numerous shapes and designs into
which these Vegetables can be cut. Flowers are often
cleverly imitated, and rounds, olives, and lozenge-sliapes
of every variety are to be seen in artistically pre-
pared soups and garnishes. These require special
tools for their production, of which the f blowing may be
considered useful examples.
Vegetables — continued.
For peeling, some excellent machines have been in-
vented. One of the best (see Fig. 971) acts upon a
system of springs. The Vegetable is stuck upon a fork
communicating with a handle, the knife being pressed
Fig. 982. Fancv Pattern Stamp (A. B. Marshall).
gently into a convenient position for trimming off the
peel as the handle is rotated. Knives fitted with adjust-
able guards are sometimes used for paring roots, but, as
they require a conside-able amount of practise to use
them successfully, they are not kitchen favourites.
Fig. 983. Vegetables for Julienne.
Vegetables are cut into fancy shapes and designs by
the use of various instruments called scoops (see Fig. 972),
which produce rounds, ovals, and fluted shapes (see Fig.
973). Spirals or cui’ls of Vegetables are much used for
garnishing, and these are pro-
duced by means of various in-
struments (shown in Fig. 974),
which fit into one handle.
Fig. 984. Julienne-cutter A variety of this mode of
(A. B. Marshall). cutting Vegetables is shown in
Crulls (see Fig. 975). . Vege-
tables can be “ turned,” as it is called, by a dexterous
action of the fingers, and the use of a small sharp knife.
The mode of proceeding is shown by Fig. 976. This
method of preparing Vegetables is of infinite use to the
artistic cook for all kinds of dishes in which uniformity
of shape and size is a desideratum.
From slices of Vegetables any number of patterns can
be cut out (see Fig. 977) by means of cutters or stamps,
Fig. 985. Vegetable-ladle (A. B. Marshall).
which may either be fitted with handles (see Fig. 978), or
by simple tubes (see Fig. 979). Either of these styles
answers equally well, it being, however, of the first im-
portance that the slices shall be of a uniform thickness.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, Jcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
726
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vegetables — continued.
To produce these slices with certainty and rapidity a very
useful instrument has been invented, known as Marshall’s
Universal Sheer (see Fig. 980).
In almost every kitchen of any size or importance, sets
of Yegetable-cutters, either fancy or plain, fitted in con-
Fig. 986. Colander for Draining Vegetables.
venient boxes (see Fig. 981), are to be seen for the cook’s
use; but in some of the larger establishments, where
appearances are of first importance, a machine is used
which stamps slices of Vegetables into exceedingly pretty
patterns (see Fig. 982).
Fig. 987. Vegetable-presser.
Vegetables cut for julienne soup (a la Julienne) (see
Fig. 983) may be cut with an ordinary knife, but the
artistic cook prefers to use a tool specially made for the
purpose (see Fig. 984), by means of which
a large quantity can be cut up much
more regularly, and with greater rapidity.
The ingenuity of man seems to have ex-
tended itself in the direction of inventing
apparatus for operating upon Vegetables ;
but the very highest results may be
obtained by the use of those already
described.
A very useful instrument for lifting
out Vegetables, especially for garnishing,
that have been cooked in a stock, is a
sort of ladle, made as it were of basket
wire at the end of a longish handle (see
Fig. 985) ; and when it is desirable to
press out water from such Vegetables
as cabbage, spinach, &c., a colander (see
Fig. 986) is used, into which the Vege-
tables are put to be drained, and they
can then be pressed almost dry by means
of a flat disc of wood, with a handle let
into its ripper surface (see Fig. 987),
which is called a Vegetable-presser. For
mashing cooked Vegetables such as po-
tatoes, turnips, or parsnips, a very use-
ful instrument is the Vegetable-masher (see Fig. 988),
which is constructed something like a wheel with narrow
flat spokes and tire, the axle being the handle. The
action is easily understood. For mincing Vegetables or
Fig. 988.
Vegetable-masher
(A. Lyon).
V egetables — continued.
cutting them up fine for soup, or slicing French beans
and scarlet runners, an instrument has been specially
constructed (see Fig. 989). By turning a handle and
supplying the vegetables they are turned out ready for
use with extraordinary ra-
pidity, effecting a saving
of time that is most im-
portant in a large estab-
lishment. An instrument
for shelling peas (see Fig.
990) is also of incalculable
value ; there are two or
three varieties of the same
principle, but the most
satisfactory results on a
large scale have been ob-
tained from the kind shown
in the illustration.
This article would not be complete without a table of
the months in which certain Vegetables are seasonable.
Although under ordinary circumstances the following list
may be considered reliable, it must be remembered that
many Vegetables are obtainable, owing to systems of
forcing and preserving in tins, bottles, or dried, at times
Fig. 989. Cutter for French
Beans, &c. (A. Lyon).
Fig. 990. Pea-sheller (A. Lyon).
when they would otherwise be considered out of season.
Vegetables preserved by any of the foregoing methods
might almost be considered in season throughout the year,
if it were not for the incontrovertible fact that they lack
something of their original quality.
Artichokes, Jerusalem. — Best in the early part of the
year.
Artichokes, Globe. — Best in the autumn.
Asparagus. — May to July.
Beans, all kinds. — -April to August.
Beetroot. — November to March.
Broccoli. — October to April.
Brussels sprouts. — October to March.
Cabbage. — Of one kind or another, all the year round.
Cardoons. — October to March.
Carrots. — Old, all the year round. New, April and May.
Cauliflowers. — March to October.
Celery. — During the winter months.
Chervil. — During the greater part of the year.
Colewort. — Beginning of the year.
Corn salad. — Midsummer months.
Cresses. — One kind or another, throughout the year
Cucumbers. — Best from April to August.
Endive. — Best part of the year.
Garlic. — All the year round. Fresh, beginning of the year.
Herbs. — Fresh, in the spring. Dried, all the year.
Leeks. — August to February.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces , die., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
727
Vegetables — continued.
Lettuces. — From early spring throughout the summer
months.
Mushrooms. — Spring and autumn.
Onions. — Old, all the year round. Spring, in the early spring.
Parsnips. — From August to April.
Peas, green. — April to October.
Potatoes. — All the year round. New, in April and May.
Radishes. — April to October.
Seakale. — February to May.
Shallots. — August, during the winter months.
Sorrel. — Early part of the year.
Tomatoes.— Autumn, through the winter. Foreign, at all
times.
Turnips. — All the year round. Young ones, in spring.
Vegetable marrows. — June to August.
Further information on this subject will be found under
special headings.
Cooked Vegetables as accompaniments require to be
served very hot, for which reason dishes are made for
them with accurately fitting lids (see Fig. 991), and those
Fig. 991, Vegetable-dish (Adams and Son),
of metal are found to be more serviceable than those of
earthenware or china, retaining the heat for much longer
time, as well as the steam, which keeps them moist and
well flavoured. For the convenience of handing Vege-
tables to seated guests, dishes fitted with handles (see
Fig. 992. Vegetable-dish with Handle,
Fig. 992) are found to be exceedingly useful, permitting
the attendant to place the dish in front of the guest”
and not at the elbow or shoulder, as almost invariably
occurs with unskilful waiting. In order that the Vege-
tables may be kept hot even during the service of a meal,
an ornamental vegetable- or plate-warmer (see Fig. 993)
may be used, which will stand in front of the dining-
room fire and answer the purposes of a hot closet. °
The following receipts tell of various modes of using
V egetables. Special V egetables are described under their
own headings.
Curried Vegetables. — (1) Prepare and cut into small pieces
a small cauliflower, a young vegetable marrow or cucumber,
three or four new potatoes, and several French beans!
Steep the Vegetables with 1 pint of green peas in salted
water for an hour. Put a lump of lard or dripping into
a stewpan, and place it over the fire ; when boiling, put in a
small finely-minced onion, a small minced clove of garlic,
a heaped teaspoonful of salt, and J teaspoonful each of
ground turmeric and cayenne. Fry the onion mixture until
brown, then drain the Vegetables, put them in with 4
pint of stock, and boil them gently at the side of the fire
till tender. W hen cooked, turn the curry on to a hot
V egetables — continued.
dish, garnish it with croutons of Med bread or sippets of
toast, and serve.
(2) Peel a few onions, cut them in slices, put them in
a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them until
nicely browned. Dredge them over with 1 table-spoonful
of curry, and stir in gradually \ pint of milk. Continue
stirring it over the fire until boiling, then move it to the
Fig. 993. Plate- and Vegetable-warmer (Adams and Son).
side, and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Partially boil
a variety of any kinds of vegetables liked, drain them,
put them in with the onions, and stew the whole gently
for lialf-an-hour longer. When cooked, turn the curry on
to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of toast or small
croutons of bread that have been fried a delicate brown
in butter, and serve. More or less of the specified quan-
tity of curry can be used, as it varies greatly in quality.
(3) Indian Chalikee. — Chop three moderate-sized onions,
three green chillies, and a clove of garlic ; put them in a
mortar, and pound them until a smooth powder ; put this
in a stewpan with 2oz. of butter and 1 table -spoonful of
curry powder, dust it over with salt, and fry for a few
minutes, stirring at the same time. N ext put in 1 break-
fast-cupful of freshly-shelled peas and Jib. of pumpkin,
cut into small pieces, and fry them until nicely browned.
Pour in J pint of boiling water or clear stock, and keep
the whole simmering gently at the edge of the fire until
tender. When the curry is cooked, turn it on to a hot
dish, garnish with sippets of toast or small croutons of
fried bread, and serve.
(4) Prepare as for other curries, frying the vegetables first
in mustard oil and curry mixture, adding a little water,
and simmering until tender.
Essence of Vegetables for Soups and Sauces. — (1) Cut into
slices three large bunches of carrots, two each of onions
and turnips, and one of leeks, put them into a saucepan
of boiling water, together with six heads of celery cut up
into pieces, and boil for two minutes. Plunge them into
cold water to blanch them, put them into a stockpot
with an onion stuck with two cloves, grated nutmeg, salt
and pepper to taste, add a lump of butter, pour in lOqts.
of boiling water, and simmer gently at the side of the
fire for three hours. Skim off the fat, strain the liquor,
and it is ready for use. It will be found very convenient
for flavouring sauces and soups that are to be served
white.
(2) Chop up two bunches each of carrots and white turnips,
put them into a saucepan on the fire with butter, and
cook them until they all have a reddish appearance, stir-
ring them about with a wooden spoon. Now add a bunch
each of leeks and onions and six heads of celery, all cut
up small, and let them sweat over the fire for a-quarter-
of-an-hour ; pour in lOqts. of water, and add an onion
stuck with two cloves, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to
taste, and boil for four hours. Skim carefully, strain
through a fine sieve, and it is ready for use. It is used
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V egetables — continued.
for adding to soup ; and sauces that require colouring and
Vegetable flavour, and is always ready to hand and useful.
Jardiniere of Vegetables. — Prepare as for Macedoine of
Vegetables (1), substituting J pint of hot Madeira sauce
for the bechamel.
Macedoine of Vegetables. — (1) Cut a ; mall raw carrot
with a Vegetable- scoop, put it into salted boiling water,
and cook for fifteen minutes ; repeat the operation with
a small raw turnip, cooking each separately. Drain, and
place them in a saucepan with i gill of cooked peas, the
same quantity of cooked Jin. lengths of French beans,
2 table spoonfuls of cooked flagejlets, and a small piece
of cauliflower. Moisten with \ pint of hot bechamel
sauce, and season with \ pinch each of salt and pepper
and J pinch of nutmeg. Let it simmer well for ten
minutes, and use as required.
(2) Wash and scrape some carrots, wash and peel some
turnips, and cut them with a \ ege table- scoop to the
shape of olives or fluted olives. Cut some French beans
across slantwise in the shape of lozenges, and cut some
asparagus-points to the size of peas. Take equal quantities
each of these Vegetables, peas, and fresh haricot beans,
and boil each Vegetable separately in salted water, adding
to the water in which the peas, carrots, and turnips are
boiled, a small quantity of sugar as well as salt. Do not
over boil any of them. Drain them very dry, mix them
together, and they are ready for use.
(3) German Style. — Peel and wash some carrots and
turnips, and cut them like olives. Cut some French
beans into small diamond -shaped pieces. Take equal
portions of the above Vegetables, with an equal quantity
of freshly shelled young peas, and boil them all separately"
in salted water. Thicken a breakfast-cupful ol milk with
flour, and stir it over the fire till boiling ; then mix with
it about J teacupful of common stock and Joz. of butter,
and move the saucepan to the side of the fire. Beat the
yolks of two eggs, strain them, ami stir them gradually
into the sauce, turning the spoon one way only. When the
Vegetables are cooked, drain them, arrange them on a hot
• dish, pour the above sauce over them, garnish with sippets of
toast or small croutons of bread that have been fried a
delicate brown in butter, and serve.
Vegetable Consomme. — Take 2lb. each of carrots and
onions, cut them up into slices, and put them into astewpan
with lib. of butter, a little thyme, parsley, celery, and shallot.
Place the pan on the fire, and fry them till they are of a
slight colour ; then add 5qts. of water, boil them up, and
skim well. Next add lqt. each of green peas and white
haricot beans, a little grated nutmeg, three cloves, Joz. of
whole pepper, and ljoz. of salt, place the pan on the side
of the fire, and let it simmer for three hours. Remove
the fat, and pass the broth through a napkin to strain
it, when it will be quite ready for use. If green peas
and fresh haricot beans are not in season, the following
may be substituted: Take lqt. of lentils, and boil them
in 1J galls, of water with lqt. of white haricot beans,
adding a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a little salt.
Let it simmer for three hours. Strain it through a cloth,
and pour it on to the fried Vegetables.
Vegetable Entree. — Surround a beetroot with a water
paste, and bake it. On no account cut or prick it before
it is put into the paste. When tender, unwrap the beet,
and let it get cold. Put \ pint of small white haricot
beans in a saucepan with a piece of the heart of a Spanish
onion, a lump of salt, J teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda,
and cold water to cover them, and boil them gently.
When tender, strain and pass the beans through a fine
hair sieve. Mix with them half their quantity of potatoes,
mashed with a little butter, add one beaten egg and 1
table-spoonful of cream, and season with small quantities |
of salt and pepper and the smallest quantity of cayenne
pepper, also a small quantity of finest sifted sweet herbs.
Shape the mixture into small rolls with floured hands,
and roll them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs. Put a lump
of butter or clarified fat in a flat stewpan, and melt it ;
then put m the lolls, and fry them a golden brown.
Arrange tastefully in the centre of a hot dish a macedoine
Vegetables — continued.
of hot Vegetables with rings of beetroot cut with a fluted
cutter and rings of stewed tomatoes. Strain the rolls,
laying them on paper for a minute or two to soak up
the fat, then arrange them round the Vegetables; pour a
thick white cream sauce, made with chopped Vegetables
and thickened with potato flour, round the dish, and serve
at once.
Vegetable Floating Garnish for Soups. — Small branches
of cauliflower, very small onions, celery stamped or cut
into shapes, cardoons treated in the same way, lettuce,
spinach, or sorrel-leaves stamped to the size of a florin
or of a sixpence, may be used for this, one or more
kinds of them at a time. Cook the Vegetables in a small
quantity of clear soup, and put into the tureen a few
minutes before serving.
Vegetable Fritters. — A variety of Vegetables may be used
for this dish, such as celery, salsify, and parsnip. Boii
the Vegetables in water til! tender, then drain them, and
cut them into small equil-sized pieces. Beat the yolks of
two eggs with 1 teacupful of milk and 1 table-spoonful of
oil ; then sift in gradually sufficient flour to make a stiff
batter, stirring it well to keep it smooth, and add 1 salt-
spoonful olfsalt and 1 table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Beat
the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth, then mix them in
the batter. Put a large lump of lard into a deep frying-
pan and make it hot. Dip the pieces of Vegetable into
the batter, giving them a good coating with it, then drop
them into the boiling fat, and fry them. When nicely
browned, drain the fritters, put them on a hot dish, and
serve.
Vegetable Olio — Boil separately three small heads of
cabbage and three each of onions, potatoes, turnips, and
carrots, drain them free from water, and cut them up.
Put them into a saucepan with two handfuls of spinach,
2oz. of butter, 3 table spoonfuls of cream, and a small
quantity of salt and pepper, cover over the pan as closely as
possible, and stew for two hours. Now stir in a small
lump of butter rolled in flour, turn all out on to a dish,
and serve.
Vegetable Pie. — (1) Put chops or steaks of mutton, lamb,
beef, or any other kind of meat at the bottom of a deep
pie-dish, add an onion peeled and sliced, a few slices of
peeled cucumber, and \ pint of green peas, and till the
dish high with lettuce, cut in strips as if for salad.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, lay a crust over it, and
bake slowly.
(2) Boil separately some green peas, young carrots, broad
beans, and French beans in bechamel sauce. Line a deep
buttered pie-mould with short paste, divide it into com-
partments with thin pieces of paste, fill these with flour
or rice to keep them in position, and bake the crust.
When cooked, take the crust out of the oven, and empty
out the rice or flour. Turn the crust out of the mould on
to a hot dish, fill each of the compartments with the
cooked Vegetables, and serve.
(3) Take equal quantities of potatoes, carrots, turnips,
cauliflower, Jerusalem artichokes, peas, French beans, and
very small onions, and any other Vegetables that may be
available. Half cook them in good broth, and fill a pie.
dish with them. Make some puff paste, cut a strip to
cover the edge of the dish, then lay a cover of puff paste
over the Vegetables, trim the edges of the paste and
press them together, cut a small hole or slit in the centre
of the crust, which may be concealed with an ornament
of cut paste, and bake the pie in a slow oven. Put some
stock over the fire, and boil in it a slice of ham, a small
piece of veal, a couple of mushrooms, four or five shallots,
one or two sprigs of parsley, a bay-leaf, a small onion, a
little pepper, and some salt. When this gravy has well
boiled, strain it, and mix into it nearly 1 gill of cream.
Pour it by a funnel into the pie through the hole cut in the
top of the crust just before serving.
(4) Well wash 3oz. of tapioca, and put it to soak in
cold water for an hour. In the meantime wash, peel, and
slice 3 Jib. of potatoes, and chop up Jib. of onions. Put
loz. of dripping at the bottom of a pie-dish, over this
place a layer of onion, then tapioca, and lastly potatoes,
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
729
V egetables— co nti nued.
sprinkling each layer with salt and pepper as it is put in.
Continue in this way until all is used up, finishing with
potato. Make a paste with 111), of flour, 3oz. of dripping,
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 saltspoonful of salt,
and cold water. Cover over the dish with this, put it
in a moderate oven, hake for two hours, and serve
very hot.
(5) The cold remains of Vegetables such as haricot beans,
peas, potatoes, carrots, celery, &c., can be used. Fill a
pie-dish with them, putting the most substantial in the
middle, and pour over them some butter sauce or onion
sauce. Season well. Mash some cold boiled potatoes quite
smoothly, moisten them with beaten egg, season to taste
with salt and pepper, and spread them evenly over the
contents of the pie-dish. Bake the pie in a brisk oven
till nicely browned. Serve while very hot.
(6) American. — Put 2oz. of dry julienne (chopped
Vegetables) in a large basin, pour over lqt. of nearly
boiling milk, and let it soak for an hour. Then put it into
the bain-marie for thirty minutes, mix in 1 teaspoonful of
powdered sweet herbs, 1 teacupful of sifted breadcrumbs,
and i teacupful of cream, with two eggs beaten into it.
Line a greased pie-dish with paste, put in the Vegetable
mixture, cover the pie with more of the paste, decorate
the top, brush over with egg, and bake in a moderate
oven. Serve either hot or cold.
Vegetable Pudding. — Grate Alb. of carrots, mix with them
ilb. each of mashed cold potatoes, finely- chopped suet,
flour, and moist sugar, 4oz. of finely -shred candied peel,
and 4oz. of well-washed currants. Work the mixture to a
paste with a little milk or water, .turn it into a basin
or mould, tie a cloth over it, put it in a saucepan
of boiling water, and boil slowly for four hours. When
cooked, turn the pudding on to a dish, and serve.
Vegetable Puree. —Prepare any kind of Vegetables, such as
potatoes, parsnips, leeks, onions, carrots, turnips, Ac.,
put them all together in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet
herbs, stock to cover them, and salt and pepper and spices
to taste, and boil them until quite tender ; then mash
them through a fine hair sieve. Put 2oz. of butter and a
table-spoonful of flour in a stewpan, mix them over
the fire, and then mix the puree in gradually. Stir it
over the fire for a few minutes, then move it to the side,
and stir in the yolks of two eggs that have been beaten
up with a small quantity of milk and strained. Turn
the purd e on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of
toast or croutons of bread that have been fried brown in
butter, and serve.
Vegetable Puree Soup. — (1) Well wash a couple of bundles
of young carrots, scrape them thoroughly, and rasp off the
red parts only into a saucepan ; add a little butter and a
slice of lean ham, also a few leeks and sticks of celery
tied up in a bundle, and stir well over the fire until the
vegetables are slightly coloured : then pour in the required
quantity of fowl or other consomme, and boil slowly for
two hours. Take out the roots and ham, and strain the soup
into another saucepan ; rub the carrots through a sieve,
add them to the soup, and bring it once more to the boil.
Remove the saucepan to the side of the fire, skim the
soup carefully, add a small pinch of moist sugar, pour it
into a tureen, and serve.
(2) Peel three turnips, three carrots, three onions, and a
few leeks, cut them up into small squares, and blanch
them in boiling water. Drain the Vegetables, put them in
a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and fry them until
nicely browned ; then put them into a saucepan with 2 or
3 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley and 1 scant breakfast-
cupful of washed rice, pour in 5 pints of clear stock, and
place it over the fire until boiling. Move the saucepan to
the edge of the fire, and let the contents simmer until
all are cooked. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pass the soup through a wire sieve, return it to the
saucepan, mix | pint of cream with it, and boil it up
again. Beat the yolks of four eggs, put them in a soup-
tureen, and pour the soup in gently, stirring it at the
same time. Serve with a plate of sippets of toast or
crohtons of fried bread.
Vegetables — continued.
(3) Peel fib. of onions, peel and wash lib. of turnips,
scrape and wash lib. of carrots, anil wash one lettuce,
half a small head of celery, and a small bunch of parsley.
Cut these up small, put them in a stewpan over the fire
with fib. of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt,
and stew for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Add lqt. of green
peas, and 3qts. of stock, made of a couple of pounds
of veal, and let it simmer for three hours. Then press
it through a sieve, return it to the fire, and boil it
up before pouring it into the tureen.
(4) Cut into slices an equal quantity of carrots, leeks,
and onions, one turnip, one root of celery, and three or
four roots of young cabbage radish. Put the Vegetables
into a saucepan with a lump of butter, and fry them
over a moderate fire for fifteen minutes. Peel and cut
into thin slices six raw potatoes, put them in with the
other Vegetables, moisten with 3qts. of broth, add a sprig
of chervil, and keep the Vegetables boiling gently till tender.
Pass the whole through a fine hair sieve, return the puree to
the saucepan, and stir it till it begins to boil. Beat the
yolks of six eggs with a teacupful of cream. Move the
saucepan to the side of the fire, mix in the beaten yolks
and a lump of butter about loz. in weight, and stir the
mixture by the side of the fire for a few minutes. Turn
it into a soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of croutons
of fried bread or sippets of toast.
Vegetable Salad. — (1) Boil some beetroot, celery, and
Portugal onions. When cold, cut them into thick slices.
Mix together 1 salt-spoonful of salt, 1 table-spoonful of
made mustard, 1 dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1
dessert -spoonful of elder vinegar, and six drops of chilli
vinegar, and pour it over the Vegetables.
(2) Cut the white part of two or three sticks of celery
into small pieces, put them in a stewpan with two small
onions and sufficient jelly stock to cover them, and boil
them until tender. When cooked, strain the Vegetables,
and rub them through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the
cooking- liquor an equal quantity of thick cream, stir the
Vegetable pulp in with it, pour the whole back into the
stewpan, and stir it over the fire until boiling. Move the
sauce off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs,
and stir it occasionally until cool. Cover the bottom of a
dish with a thick nicely flavoured tomato sauce, over that
arrange a layer of sliced tomatoes. When the sauce is
cold, season it to taste with salt and a small quantity of
chilli vinegar, and pour it over the beetroot. Arrange
round the dish a border of washed and nicely -packed
watercress, strew some capers over the top, and serve.
(3) Russian. — Peel and wash two protatoes, two small
carrots, and one turnip, and boil them separately ; also
wash, trim, and boil half a head of celery. When the
Vegetables are tender, cut them into smail squares, and
pile them in the centre of a round dish. Put the yolks of
two eggs into a basin, mix in gradually 1 teacupful of
salad oil, and beat them until creamy ; then add 1 table-
• spoonful of vinegar, one third of the quantity of tarragon
vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Beat a few minutes
longer, then pour the dressing over the Vegetables. Take four
anchovies and four olives, and twist an anchovy round
each olive. Garnish the dish with slices of beetroot, which
should be arranged to overlap each other, place one of the
olives at each end and one at each side, and serve.
Vegetable Sauce for Fish.— Put Jib. of butter in a sauce-
pan with 3 table spoonfuls of Hour, and stir it over the
fire until smooth ; then pour in 1J pints of clear fish broth,
and stir it over the fire until boiling. Put a few thin
slices of carrot, onion, and celery in a saucepan with two
or three sprigs of parsley, loz. of butter, and sufficient
broth to cover them, and boil them gently until tender.
When the Vegetables are cooked, pour the butter sauce
in with them, season to taste with salt and pepper, and
boil the whole together for a few minutes. Strain the
sauce before serving it.
Vegetable Soup. — (1 ) Finely chop sufficient onion, carrot, and
celery in equal proportions to fill five breakfast cups,
also 1 teacupful each of turnip, parsnip, and cabbage. The
cabbage, parsnip, and onion should have been partially
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, *ances, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads
730
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vegetables — continued.
boiled for five minutes, then thoroughly drained. Put all
the Vegetables into a saucepan, pour in lqt. of boiling
water and lqt. of stock, and boil slowly till tender; then
put in with them 1 breakfast -cupful of tomatoes, 1 table-
spoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful each of sugar
and salt, and £ teaspoonful of pepper. Turn the soup into
a tureen, and serve.
(2) Cut four carrots, four onions, and a stick of celery
into pieces, and put them into a saucepan with lqt. of
dried peas, Jib. of well-washed rice, a few slices of
potatoes, and a large lump of butter. Fry till nicely
browned, then pour in Gqts. of water, and iet them boil
gently for four hours. Strain the soup through a fine hair
sieve, rubbing the Vegetables through at the same time,
and let it stand till the following day. Half -an -hour
before serving, pour the soup into a saucepan, season it
with pepper and salt to taste, and boil it up again. Turn
the soup into a soup-tureen, mix 1 pint of boiled green
peas with it, and serve.
(3) The night before making this soup, wash \ pint of
Scotch barley, and put it to soak in water. The next
morning, put it into a saucepan with 3qts. of cold water and
2oz. of clarified beef dripping, and boil it until reduced to
half its original quantity. Peel and thinly slice four
carrots, four onions, and two turnips, or one very large one ;
wash and cut in thin shreds two lettuces and two heads
of celery. Put the Vegetables in the soup, with moderate
quantities of finely-chopped parsley and mint, and 1 tea-
spoonful of French dried colouring onion, and keep the
soup simmering gently at the edge of the fire for an hour -
a-lialf longer. When ready, turn it into a soup tureen,
and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast or small
croutons of bread fried brown in butter.
(4) Scrape, wash, and cut small three carrots, and put
them over the fire with |lb. of butter, one dozen cabbage
lettuces well washed and cut small, eight large green
onions, a little less than 1 teacupful of parsley, the same
quantity of purslane, the same of chervil, lqt. of green
peas, and 1 heaped teacupful of sorrel, or if peas are
out of season, 1 heaped breakfast-cupful of sorrel ; add a
seasoning of pepper and salt, shut down the saucepan lid
tight, and let all stew for thirty minutes, shaking them
every now and then to keep them from burning or stick
ing to the saucepan. Peel half-a-dozen cucumbers, cut
them lengthwise into quarters, and fry them in butter.
When the herbs and Vegetables have stewed for half an -
hour, put the cucumbers into the saucepan with them, add
also a crust of bread toasted on both sides, half a French
roll, and lgall. of hot water, and let all boil together till
lqt. of the water has evaporated ; then strain it through a
sieve, return it to the saucepan, and set it where it will
keep almost boiling, but not quite. Beat the yolks of
four eggs with 4 pint of cream, and stir this into the soup
just before pouring it into the tureen.
(5) Chop up as finely as possible a few Vegetables in
season, such as turnips, carrots, cabbage, spinach, celery,
parsley, onions, &c., add a little mint, and plenty of
herbs, also cut fine. Put them into a saucepan with a
little water, and stew gently until they are tender ; then
add 2qts. of boiling water, cook a -quarter -of -an -hour longer,
and serve.
VEGETABLE MARROWS (Fr. Aubergines; Ger.
Pflanzenmark).— By some extraordinary confusion or
another French and English cooks have confused the
Vegetable Marrow with the egg-plant, probably because
the earlier plants bore fruits shaped somewhat like an egg ;
by cultivation, however, they have assumed quite a dif-
fei’ent character isee Fig. 994). The Vegetable Marrow
(Cucurbita oviferci succada) is one of the most valuable
sorts of the gourd tribe for culinary purposes, and was j
originally introduced into this country from Persia about I
the year 1819. It is a watery vegetable without much j
nutriment, but with a fine mellow flavour. Marrows are ;
in season from June to August, and are much approved by i
all classes.
Boiled Vegetable Marrows. — (1) Peel the Marrows, cut |
them into moderate-sized pieces, put them in a saucepan 1
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
of boiling water, with a lump of salt, a bunch of parsley,
and an onion stuck with four or five cloves, and boil
them until tender. Prepare the following sauce : Put loz.
of butter into a small stewpan with h, table-spoonful of
Fig. 994. Vegetable Marrows.
flour, and mix them over the fire ; next stir in a small
bottle of tomato sauce, and continue stirring it until
boiling, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. When
cooked, drain the Marrows, put them on a hot vegetable-
dish, pour the sauce over them (see Fig. 995), and serve
while very hot.
(2) Take off the peel from some Marrows, plunge them
into a saucepan of boiling salted water, and boil gently
for from ten to twenty minutes, or until they are done.
Take them out with a slice, put them into a vegetable-
dish, cut them into halves or quarters, and serve with a
sauceboatful of melted butter. Two ounces of butter may
Fig. 995. Boiled Vegetable Marrows.
be added to the water whilst boiling, if desired, and the
melted butter poured over them ; or they may be served
cut in halves and white sauce poured over. The time
taken to cook depends upon the size of the Marrows.
Boiled Vegetable Marrow with Parmesan Cbeese. —
Peel and cut the Marrows into convenient lengths, and
boil them in salted water, with a bunch of parsley and
an onion stuck with four cloves. Put loz. of butter and
1 table -spoonful of flour in a stewpan, and stir them over
the fire until smoothly mixed ; then stir in 4 pint of
boiling water, salt and pepper to taste, and boil for five
minutes ; next move the sauce to the side of the fire, and
mix in Jib. of grated Parmesan cheese. When the Marrows
are cooked, drain them well, put them on a hot dish
with a few pieces of toast underneath them, pour the
sauce over, and serve.
Boiled Vegetable Marrows with Poulette Sauce. — Peel
the Marrows, cut them into halves lengthwise, and scoop
out the seeds ; then cut them into convenient lengths, put
them into a saucepan of boiling water, with a lump of
salt, an onion stuck with three or four cloves, and a
bunch of parsley, and boil them until tender. Prepare the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
731
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
following sauce : Incorporate loz. of butter and 1 table-
spoonful of flour in a stewpan over the fire ; then mix in
gradually J pint of boiling water, and stir over the fire
for five minutes ; next move it to the side, and stir in
the yolks of two eggs that have been beaten up with the
juice of a small lemon and strained. When the Marrows
are cooked, drain them well, put them on a hot dish with
some pieces of toast underneath them, pour the sauce over,
and serve.
Pried Vegetable Marrow. (1) Select a nice large Vegetable
Marrow, peel it, remove the seeds, and cut it into pieces
about 1 Jin. long and fin. wide. Put these on a plate,
strew them well with salt, and leave them for an hour or
two. Afterwards, put them on a cloth, twist it round and
wring it well, to extract as much of the juice as possible
from the Marrows, but do not squeeze them hard enough to
break them. Dredge them over with flour, seeing that
each piece is well covered, and lay them in a frying-basket.
Put a large lump of clarified fat in a stewpan, and when
boiling put in the basket. As each piece of Marrow is
nicely browned, take it out of the stewpan, dust it lightly
over with salt, and lay it on a sheet of paper in front of
the fire for a minute or two, to drain as free from fat as
possible. Spread a fancy dish -paper over a hot dish, lay
the Marrow on it, and serve.
(2) Peel the required number of Vegetable Marrows,
cut them into quarters and take out all the seeds, and
stew gently until done in a saucepan with a little butter,
lemon-juice, and salt. Dip each piece separately into well-
beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs, put them into a
frying-pan with some boiling fat, sprinkle them over
with salt and pepper, fry them to a light brown, and
serve in a vegetable dish.
(3) Cut some Vegetable Marrows into thin slices with
a cucumber slice, take out the seeds, dry the slices on a
cloth, plunge them into a frying-pan of boiling fat, and
fry them until done. Take them out carefully, arrange
them on a dish with a napkin spread over it, sprinkle
them over with salt and pepper, and serve.
(4) Peel the Marrows, cut them into thin rounds, remove
the seeds, lay the rounds between two plates with plenty
of salt strewn over them and a weight on the top, and
leave them for several hours. When ready, dry the slices
of Marrow on a cloth, flour them well, put them in a
stewpan with plenty of boiling olive oil, and fry them until
tender. Mix with 1 breakfast cupful of wine vinegar an
equal quantity of finely minced parsley and mint, half a
dozen well-washed and pounded anchovies, h table-spoon-
ful of sugar, and pepper to taste. Drain the slices of
Marrow, lay them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over
them, and serve.
(5) Italian Style. — Peel some young Marrows, cut
them into rounds about Jin. thick, strew plenty of salt
over them, lay them between two plates with a weight
on the top, and leave them for several hours. Wash four
or five anchovies, remove the skin and bone, mince them
finely, put them in a mortar with J table-spoonful each of
chopped parsley and mint, a heaped teaspoonful of moist
sugar, and pepper to taste, and pound the whole until
quite smooth ; then stir in gradually a sufficient quantity
of white wine vinegar to make the sauce. Drain the
pieces of Marrow, dry them on a cloth, and dredge th.em
over with flour. Pour a good quantity of olive oil into
a deep frying pan, and place it on the fire ; when the blue
smoke arises, put in the pieces of Marrow, and fry them
until nicely browned. When ready, drain them on a
sheet of paper in front of the fire, then pile them on a
hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Pried Vegetable Marrow with Chicken. — Select very
young Vegetable Marrows about 3in. long, lay them on a
dish, and dust them lightly over with salt. In about
half an hour’s time drain them, and rub them well with
a cut lemon. Put 2oz. of butter in a saucepan, and place
it over the fire ; when it is melted, put in the Marrow,
and fry it until nicely browned ; then pour in a few table-
spoonfuls of broth, and stew until tender. Prepare and
cut a young fowl into quarters, rub it well with cut lemon,
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
then put it in a saucepan with a lump of butter, and fry
it until slightly browned. Moisten the fowl with sufficient
clear broth to cover it, and stew it until tender. When
cooked, put the Marrow and chicken on to a hot dish,
and serve.
Fried Vegetable Marrow with Parmesan Cheese. —
Peel the Marrow, cut it in quarters lengthwise, scoop out
the seeds, and cut it into convenient lengths, ltub a
stewpan over with garlic, put in a large lump of butter,
and melt it ; then put in the pieces of Marrow, season to
taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, and toss them about over the fire. Before the
Marrow is quite done, put in plenty of grated Parmesan
cheese, and add more butter if necessary. When quite
tender, turn the Marrow on to a hot dish, with the cheese
over it, garnish with sippets of hot buttered toast or small
croutons of bread that have been fried a delicate brown in
butter, and serve.
Preserved Vegetable Marrow. —(1) Select a nice firm
Vegetable Marrow, peel it, cut it into small thick slices,
and boil them until tender; then put them on a sieve
and let them drain for twenty-four hours. Weigh the
Marrow, and allow an equal weight of sugar. Put the
sugar in a pan with about Jib. of bruised ginger, a small
quantity of lemon peel, and 1 pint of cold water, and boil
it to a syrup, keeping it well skimmed. When the syrup is
clear, put in the pieces of Marrow, and boil them for two
or three minutes ; then turn them into a basin with the
syrup. The next day, strain the syrup off the pieces of
Marrow, boil it up again, and pour it boiling over the
Marrow. Proceed in this way on the two following days,
then turn the preserve into jars, and when cold tie them
over for use.
(2) Procure freshly-cut Marrows, peel them, cut them into
halves, scoop out all the seeds, and cut the Marrows into
slices about Jin. thick. For each pound of Marrow,
weighed after it has been peeled, &c., allow 111), of coarsely-
crushed loaf sugar. Lay the slices in layers on a deep
dish, with sugar between each layer, and squeeze over the
juice of one lemon for each pound. Leave the Marrow for
three days, then put it into a preserving-pan, with \ pint
of water for every 31b. of sugar, ami boil gently until the
Marrow is tender ; then turn the whole into a large pan,
and leave it for seven or eight days. At the end of that
time strain off the syrup, mix with it a small quantity of
thinly-pared lemon-peel and some bruised ginger, and boil
it until thickly reduced, skimming it well. Put the Marrow
into jars. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve, and pour
it hot over the Marrow. When cold, cover the jars with
stout paper, tie down with twine, and pack them away in
a dry store cupboard. The ginger and lemon peel may be
omitted if not liked, but the additional flavour will be
found to improve the Marrow.
(3) Peel a large Marrow, cut it into halves lengthwise, and
scoop out the seeds and soft pulp. Cut it into slices, lay
them in a deep dish, strew plenty of sugar over them, and
leave them until the next day. When ready, cut the slices
of Marrow into small equal-sized lengths, and weigh them ;
for each pound allow lib. of coarsely-crushed loaf sugar,
loz. of ginger that has been bruised in a mortar, and the rind
and juice of one lemon. Put all the ingredients in a
preserving- pan, and place it over a gentle fire ; also put in
a few pods of cayenne tied up in a piece of muslin, and
take them out again when their flavour has been sufficiently
extracted. Boil the whole until quite clear, then turn the
preserve into small jars. When cold, cover with parchment,
tie down, and store them away for use.
Preserved Vegetable Marrow for Curry. — Peel two or
three Marrows, cut them into slices about lin. thick, and
remove the seeds. Put the slices on to a large dish, dust
them over with moist sugar, let them remain for a day,
and then strain off the water. W eigh the Marrow, put it
into a preserving- pan with an equal weight of loaf sugar,
and to every 41b. add loz. of bruised ginger and the rind
and juice of two lemons, and boil until quite clear, adding
a little cayenne when nearly done. Put the Marrow
away in jars, and keep it in a cool place until wanted.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
732
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
Stewed Vegetable Marrow. — (1) Peel some young Vegetable
Marrows and cut them into convenient-sized pieces, put
them in a saucepan with a good-sized lump of butter, season
them to taste with salt and pepper, and toss them over
the fire for a-quarter-of-an-hour ; then pour in as much
plain stock freed from fat as will reach to half their
height, and boil them gently until quite tender. Move the
saucepan to the side of the fire, anil stir in quickly the
yolk of an egg that has been well beaten with the juice of
a lemon and strained, and add about 1 table-spoonful of
finely-minced parsley. Put some slices of hot buttered
toast on to a hot dish, turn the Marrow on to it, and serve
without delay.
(2) Select young Vegetable Marrows, peel them, and cut
them into small pieces. Rub the inside of a saucepan over
with garlic, put in 2oz. of butter, and place the pan
over the fire ; when the butter has melted, put in the
pieces of Vegetable Marrow, season them with salt, pepper,
and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and toss them
about over the fire for fifteen minutes ; then put in plenty
of grated Parmesan cheese, and finish cooking. If too dry,
a small quantity of milk, or more butter, may be added.
Cut two or three slices of bread of a moderate thickness,
toast them and butter them while hot, lay them on a hot
dish, pour the Marrow over them, dust a small quantity
of cayenne pepper on the top, and serve.
Stewed Vegetable Marrow with Cheese. — Procure two
small Marrows, peel them, cut them in two lengthwise,
and scoop out the insides. Divide each half into two
pieces lengthwise. Put a large lump of butter in a stew-
pan, and when it has melted, put in the pieces of Marrow,
dust them over with salt and pepper, and stew them
gently for half -an -hour, shaking the stewpan constantly.
Next mix in 2 heaped table spoonfuls of grated Parmesan
cheese, and when it has melted turn the whole on to a
dish. Strew over a little more cheese and some finely-
grated breadcrumbs, and put it in a brisk oven to brown,
or brown them under a salamander. Serve the Marrow
while veiy hot on the same dish.
Stewed Vegetable Marrow with Cheese Sauce. — Peel
sufficient Marrows, cut them in halves lengthwise, and
scoop out all the seeds. Lay the Marrow in a stewpan
with a sufficient quantity of boiling stock to cover it, and
stew it gently until tender. Put loz. of butter into a
stewpan with 1 heaped table -spoonful of flour, and mix
them over the fire ; then stir in about 1 breakfast-cupful
of plain white stock and 1 heaped table -spoonful of
grated Parmesan cheese. Stir the sauce over the fire until
it boils, then move it to the side, and season it to taste
with salt and pepper. Drain the pieces of Marrow, lay
them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Stuffed Vegetable Marrows.— (1) Peel two large Marrows,
and boil them whole. When tender, drain them care-
fully, cut off one end of each, and scoop out the seeds.
Scrape off all the fat and jelly of some tinned mutton,
and cut the meat into small pieces. Peel and chop finely
one large or two small onions ; put loz. of butter into a
stewpan and melt it ; then put in the onion, and fry it ;
dredge in 1 table-spoonful of flour, and moisten with a
few table -spoonfuls of clear gravy, not making it too
liquid. Season with salt, pepper, and any kind of spices,
add 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and let the whole
simmer at the side of the fire. When the gravy has
well reduced, put in the meat, and stir it well over the
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
fire until hot. Stuff the Marrows with the mixture, replace
the piece that was cut off the end, lay them on a hot
dish (see Fig. 996), and serve.
(2) Carefully peel a small Marrow, cut it level at both
ends, scoop out the centre, put the Marrow into a stewpan
with plenty of boiling water, well seasoned with salt, and
cook for twelve or fifteen minutes, or until it is quite
tender. Take out the Marrow, plunge it into cold water,
and then drain it on a sieve. Finely chop Jib. of any kind
of meat, such as veal, rabbit, or chicken, mix in the yolks
of two eggs and a little more then 1 table-spoonful of
thick bechamel sauce, also a little each of cayenne and
salt, and mix well. Stuff the Marrow with this, using a
biscuit- or forcing-bag for the purpose, roll the Marrow
lightly in flour, brush it over with beaten egg, cover
it with fine breadcrumbs, and fry it a golden colour in
boiling fat.
(3) Take a tin of beef or mutton, open it, turn the
meat out, scrape off all the fat and jelly, and mince the
meat ; then put it in a jar and make it hot, by letting
it stand in a pan of boiling water, lloil two Vegetable
Marrows whole ; when cooked, cut off the stem ends and
scoop out the seeds. Fill the insides with the hot mince
meat, replace the ends that were cut off, and serve at
once.
(4) Peel two Vegetable Marrows, cut them in halves
lengthwise, and scrape out the seeds and soft part.
Prepare the following stuffing for them : Rub a mortar
slightly over with garlic, put in it some small pieces of
veal and ham in equal quantities, and pound them to a
smooth paste ; pass this through a fine wire sieve, return
it to the mortar, and mix with it a quarter of its bulk
of butter, and the same of stale breadcrumbs. Pound
the mixture again, season it to taste with salt, pepper,
spices, and a moderate quantity each of minced parsley
and powdered sweet herbs, bind the mixture with beaten
yolks of eggs, and fill the halves with it. Wrap the
Marrows in sheets of buttered paper, tying them round
with fine string, lay them side by side in a buttered
baking-tin, cover them with a plate, and bake them in
the oven. When the Marrows are cooked, carefully remove
the papers, lay them on a hot dish, pour round them
some tomato sauce, or clear gravy that has been nicely
flavoured, and serve.
(o) Cut one or two Marrows in halves across, and scrape
out all the seeds and a little of the pulp, rub the hollow
with a little salt, and remove the rinds. Chop Jib. of
mutton and one onion up very fine, and add a little
minced parsley, seasoning with salt and pepper, and work-
ing in a, small quantity of rice. Mix thoroughly, and
stuff the pieces of Vegetable Marrow with it. Put them
in a saucepan with a very little water, and boil very
slowly until they are done.
(6) Cut a couple of nice-sized Vegetable Marrows in
four lengthwise, and partially boil them in salted water.
Rub a baking-dish over with garlic, and butter it thickly ;
lay the Marrows in it, strew plenty of grated Parmesan
cheese over them, and season with salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg; lay a few thin slices of butter on the top, cover
with a layer of grated breadcrumb, and bake in a
moderate oven between twenty minutes and half-an-hour.
Serve the Marrows while very hot in the same dish.
(7) Select some Vegetable Marrows, small but all as
nearly the same size as possible, pare them very thinly,
cut a piece off the top of each, and scoop out the insides.
Grate sufficient Parmesan cheese to fill the Marrows, and
mix with it about 3 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped
parsley and 2 teaspoonfuls of finely -chopped mint,
seasoning the mixture with salt and pepper. Stuff the
Vegetable Marrows with the mixture. Put a good-sized
lump of butter in a deep frying-pan, and make it hot ;
dip the Marrows in beaten eggs, then put them in the pan.
and fry them till nicely browned. Drain the fat off the
Marrows, put them in a saucepan, pour in sufficient clear
stock broth to cover them, and boil them gently till tender
and the moisture has somewhat evaporated. When cooked,
arrange the Marrows on a hot dish, pour the remainder of
their cooking liquor over them, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
733
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
(8) Select three large Vegetable Marrows, scrape out the
seeds and some of the pulp, dust them over with salt,
and leave them for fifteen minutes. Drain them from
the juice that will have run from them, wipe them on a
dry towel, and stuff with some well-seasoned pounded
veal or chicken flesh. Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan,
and place it over the fire until melted ; then put in the
Marrows and fry them until nicely browned. Pour sufficient
stock over the Marrows to cover them, and keep them
simmering gently at the side of the fire until cooked ;
then drain, and place them on a hot dish. Mix h table-
spoonful of flour smoothly with a small quantity of
water, mix it in the cooking liquor of the Marrows,
squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a small quan-
tity of salt. Stir the sauce over the fire until thickened
and boiling, then pour it over the Marrows, and serve
while very hot.
(9) Cut two small Marrows in halves lengthwise, and scoop
out all the seeds. Remove all skin and bones from some
cold fish of any kind, put it into a mortar with two
washed and chopped anchovies, and pound to a smooth
paste ; mix with this half its quantity of breadcrumbs
that have been soaked in milk and well squeezed, and
half its quantity of fresh butter. Season the mixture to
taste with salt, pepper, and powdered sweet herbs, nutmeg
and spices, pound it again, and bind it with beaten
yolks of egg. Fill each half of Marrow with this, wrap
each in a sheet of buttered paper, tie it round with
string, lay them in a baking-tin with a few pieces of
Fig. 997. Stuffed Vegetable Marrows.
butter, and bake in the oven. When cooked, remove the
papers, lay the Marrows on a hot dish with a piece of
toast under each, pour some hot nicely-flavoured tomato
sauce over them (see Fig. 997), and serve.
(10) Procure a couple of nice-sized Vegetable Marrows, cut
them in halves lengthwise, scoop out all the seeds, put
them into a saucepan of water with a lump of salt,
several cloves, a bunch of parsley, and one onion, and
boil them until half cooked ; then drain them well.
Mince together in equal quantities, sufficient lean ham and
beef-suet to stuff the Marrows with, add a little grated
breadcrumb, some Parmesan cheese also grated, a moderate
quantity each of chopped parsley and sweet herbs, with
salt and pepper to taste. Bind the mixture with beaten
eggs, and stuff the Marrows with it. Butter a baking-
dish, lay the Marrows in it, cover them with a sheet of
buttered paper, and bake them for twenty minutes. When
cooked, put them on a hot dish over which has been spread
a folded napkin or fancy dish-paper, and serve.
(11) Turkish. — Peel two moderate-sized Vegetable
Marrows, cut them in halves across, scoop out the seeds
and soft pulp, and rub them over with a small quantity
of salt. Mince very finely ilb. of mutton, a large onion,
and a small handful of parsley, mix them together with
2 table-spoonfuls of uncooked rice, and season with salt
and pepper. Stuff the Vegetable Marrows with the mix-
ture, lay them in a stewpan with a small quantity of
water, and boil them slowly until tender. When cooked
drain them, lay them on a hot dish over which has
been spread a folded napkin or a fancy dish paper, and
serve.
Vegetable Marrow a la Chambord. — Cut a medium-
sized Marrow into slices about |m- thick, dip them into
Hour seasoned with salt and pepper, then dip them into
beaten egg, and lastly into sifted breadcrumbs ; plunge
them into a pan of boiling fat, and fry. In the mean-
time, put loz. of butter into a saucepan, melt it, pour in
a well-beaten egg, and season with salt and pepper. Stir
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
quickly, and when set, divide the egg into pieces, accord-
ing to the number of slices of Marrow. Put a piece of
egg on each slice, place them on a dish, squeeze over a
little lemon-juice, and serve with rich cream or veloute
sauce in a sauceboat.
Vegetable Marrow a l’Espagnole. — Cut two or three
tomatoes into slices, and peel and slice a moderate- sized
onion ; put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter,
and fry them until the onion is cooked. Peel the Marrow,
cut it into moderate-sized pieces, removing all the seeds,
put them in with the onion and tomato, season to taste
with pepper, salt, and powdered sweet herbs, and moisten
to about a third of their height with hot water. Stew
the Marrow gently until tender. When the Marrow is
cooked, turn it on to a hot dish with the onion and
tomato over it, and serve.
Vegetable Marrow au G-ratin. — Peel two young Marrows,
cut them into quarters lengthwise, and scoop out all the
seeds. Put a large lump of butter in a stewpan, and when
melted put in the pieces of Marrow, season them with salt
and pepper, and stew them for about half an -hour over a
gentle fire, adding before they are quite done 2oz. of grated
Parmesan cheese, and tossing them about occasionally.
When cooked, lay the pieces on a hot dish, pour the cooking-
butter over them, strew grated breadcrumbs and more
grated cheese over them, brown them under a salamander,
and serve while very hot.
Vegetable Marrow au Jus.— Put 2oz. of finely-chopped
fat bacon in a stewpan with a small chopped onion, and
fry them for a few minutes ; when the onion is lightly
browned, put in the Marrow, which should have been
peeled, cut in halves lengthwise, and freed from the
seeds. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and powdered
sweet herbs, cover it with nicely flavoured brown stock,
and stew it gently until tender. When the pieces of Marrow
are cooked, strain off some of their liquor into a smaller
saucepan, put in it a piece of butter that has been
kneaded with flour, and stir it over the fire until thickened.
Lay the halves of Marrow on a hot dish, pour the sauce
over them, and serve.
Vegetable Sauce a la Lyonnaise. — Peel the Marrow and
cut it into round slices about Jin. thick. Peel and slice
a couple of moderate sized onions, put them into a stew-
pan with plenty of butter, and fry them until lightly
browned ; then put in the slices of Marrow, season to
taste with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, pour over
them a small quantity of stock, and stew them gently
until tender. When cooked, strew a moderate quantity
of finely minced parsley over the Marrow, turn it on to
a hot dish with the sauce over it, and serve.
Vegetable Marrow a l’Orly. — Cut some Marrow into
pieces about 2in. wide and 4in. long, and put them into
a basin of cold water to soak. Take them out, drain
them thoroughly, and let them remain for an hour or so.
Have ready some hot meat glaze, dip each piece of
Marrow into it, put them on a board, and when they are
cold, smooth round the edges. Dip them into frying
batter, and fry them to a good colour in boiling lard.
Fig. 99b. Vegetable Marrow a l’orly.
When done, take them out, drain them on a napkin, put
them in a pile on a hot dish round a sauceboatful of
tomato sauce, garnish with fried parsley (see Fig. 998),
and serve.
Vegetable Marrow a la Poulette.— Peel the Marrow, cut
it in halves, scoop out all the seeds, and cut it into
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
734
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vegetable Marrows— continued.
small pieces. Put a large lump of butter in a stewpan,
melt it, put in the pieces of Marrow, toss them about for
a few minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper, and
pour over them a small quantity of clear broth. Let them
stew over a gentle fire until quite cooked, then move the
stewpan to the side, and stir in a moderate quantity of
finely-minced parsley and the yolk of an egg that has
been beaten up with the juice of half a lemon and strained.
Lay the pieces of Marrow on a hot dish, pour the sauce
over them, and serve.
Vegetable-marrow Jam. — (1) Peel some young Vegetable
Marrows, cut them into thin slices, and put them into a
preserving-pan with lib. of caster sugar and the strained
juice and thinly. shred rind of half a lemon to every pound
of Marrow. Tie a small quantity of bruised ginger up in a
muslin bag, put it in with the other ingredients, and
boil the whole gently until reduced to a thick jam, stir-
ring frequently with a wooden spoon. When ready, turn
the jam into jars, and leave it until the next day ; then
put in each jar a round of brandied paper, cover them with
parchment, and tie down. Keep in a dry store-cupboard.
(2) Select moderate-sized Marrows, put them in a tub
with salted water to cover, and steep them for two
days, keeping them in a warm temperature. Wash them
well in clear water, peel them, cut them up in convenient
sized pieces, and remove the seeds. For each pound of
fruit allow lib. of coarsely-crushed loaf sugar, 1 pint of
water, and foz. of ginger. Boil these ingredients to a
syrup, then put in the pieces of Marrow, anil stew them
gently until tender. Just before removing them from the
fire add the rind and juice of a lemon. When sufficiently
boiled, mix in about 2 wineglassfuls of gin to 61b. of the
preserve, and turn it into jars. When cold, cover them
with parchment, and tie down.
(3) Get the Marrows when just ripened, peel them, cut
them into moderately thick strips, and scoop out all the
seeds and pulp. Prepare a sufficient quantity of syrup
with brown sugar and water to cover the Marrows, and
pour it while boiling hot over them. Leave them for
three days in the syrup, then drain them, and throw the
syrup away. Put the Marrows in a preserving-pan, and
for each pound put in lib. of coarsely crushed loaf sugar,
the juice and thinly-pared rind of a large lemon, and 1
pint of water. Tie a few slices of whole ginger and a
small quantity of cayenne pepper in a linen bag, and put
in with the above ingredients. Place the pan over a slow
tire and boil the Marrow until it looks clear. When quite
cooked, mix in for every 2lb. of the preserve 1 wineglass-
ful of whisky. Turn it into jars, and when cold cover
them with parchment, and tie them down. The whisky
can be omitted if not liked.
(4) Peel a well-grown Vegetable Marrow, cut it into
halves, scoop out all the seeds, and then cut it into
slices about Jin. wide and 1 Jin. long. Weigh the Marrow,
and for each pound allow Jib. of sugar ; put them together
in a deep dish and let them stand for one day and night.
Put the fruit and sugar into a preserving pan with
sufficient grated lemon-peel and strained juice to give it
a flavour, and boil the whole until the Marrow is trans-
parent ; then turn it into jam-jars. When the jam is cold,
put in each jar a round of brandied paper, cover them
with parchment, tie them down, and put them away in
a dry store-cupboard.
Vegetable-marrow Marmalade. -Peel the Marrows, free
them from the seeds, and cut them into very thin slices.
For 61b. of the Marrow allow the finely minced peel of
six lemons, 5oz. of ginger, and 5lb. of loaf sugar. Boil the
lemon peel for a short time before mincing it, and tie the
ginger in a piece of muslin. Put all the above ingredients
into a preserving pan, and boil them gently for an
hour-and a half. Trim oft' all the white from the six
lemons, cut them into slices, put them into the marmalade,
and boil for a-quarter-of-an hour longer. The ginger should be
taken out of the marmalade as soon as the favour is ex
tracted. Turn the marmalade into jars, and leave it until
cold ; then put in each jar a round of white paper that has
been dipped in brandy, and cover with parchment. Keep
the marmalade in a cool dry store- cupboard.
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
Vegetable-marrow Pie. — Cut oft' the peel from 21b. of
Vegetable Marrow, cut the Marrow in slices, put them into
a saucepan of salted water, and boil them, ltub them
through a fine sieve whilst still hot, stir in loz. of butter,
2 table -spoonfuls of caster sugar, 1 wineglassful of white
wine, and two slightly- beaten eggs. Beat these well to-
gether for five or six minutes, so as to make them light.
Line a pie-dish with puff paste, put in the mixture, cover
with more of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven.
Glaze when done, and serve either hot or cold, as required.
This is an excellent imitation of pumpkin pie.
Vegetable-marrow Pudding.— Put a peeled Marrow into a
saucepan, cover it with water, and boil it gently until soft.
Strain the Marrow through a sieve, put it in a basin, and
beat it up with jib. of sugar, 4 table -spoonfuls of Hour,
and 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger. Beat two eggs with 1
pint of milk, and stir them in with the Marrow mixture.
Turn the mixture into a pie-dish, and cover it with a rich
fiat of puff paste. Bake the pie for nearly an hour in a
moderate oven. When cooked, strew caster sugar over it,
and serve.
Vegetable-marrow Rissoles.— Peel one or two large
Marrows, cut them through the centre, remove all the seeds,
and fill the cavity with highly-seasoned beef or veal mince.
Fasten them together, and stew them in a little beef gravy
for about thirty minutes or so, when they should be done.
Put them on a dish, pour the gravy round, and serve very
hot.
Vegetable-marrow Sauce. — Peel a medium-sized Vege-
table Marrow, cut it up in slices, and take out all the
seeds ; put it into a stewpan with 1 pint of broth, add one
onion, peeled and sliced, sprinkle in a little cayenne, salt
and pepper to taste, and stew gently over a moderate
fire for an hour. Pass the pulp through a fine sieve, mix
in 1 gill of hot cream, and serve in a sauceboat.
Vegetable-marrow Saute. — Peel a Marrow, cut it into
pieces about lin. square, removing all the seeds, put them
in a saucepan of boiling salted water, and boil for ten
minutes ; then turn them on to a sieve, and let them
drain. Put a good-sized lump of butter in a saute -pan, place
it over the fire, put in the pieces of Marrow with plenty of
finely- minced parsley and a seasoning of salt anil pepper,
and toss them about till nicely browned and tender.
Squeeze over the Marrow a few drops of lemon- juice,
pile the pieces on a hot dish, over which has been spread
a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper, garnish them
with fried parsley, and serve.
Vegetable-marrow Soup. —(If Peel some Marrows, cut them
into convenient-sized pieces, and scoop out the seeds ;
put the Marrow into a stewpan, moisten to height with
stock, season with salt and pepper to taste and a small
quantity of grated nutmeg, and stew gently until tender.
Pass the Marrow and liquor through a fine hair sieve,
and mix with it lqt. of boiling milk. Put about 3oz. of
butter in a saucepan with 3 table-spoonfuls of flour,
and stir them over the fire until well mixed ; then pour
in gradually the puree of Marrow, and continue stirring
the whole until boiling. Turn the soup into a soup tureen,
and serve it very hot with a plate of sippets of toast or
small croutons of bread that have been browned in
butter.
(2) Peel one or two full grown Vegetable Marrows, cut
them into slices, and remove the seeds ; peel and slice two
or three onions, and wash and cut up into convenient
lengths a head of celery. Put the vegetables into a
stewpan with about 2oz. of butter, and toss them about
over the fire for ten or twelve minutes. Moisten with
2qts. of clear white stock that is quite free of fat, season
to taste with salt and pepper, and boil gently until quite
tender. Pass the soup through a line hair sieve, rubbing
the vegetables through with a wooden spoon, return it
to the saucepan, and boil it up again. Pour the soup
into a soup tureen, and serve.
(3) Take oft' the rinds from about six moderate-sized
Vegetable Marrows, cut them into slices, put them in a
saucepan with lqt. of boiling veal stock, and let them
simmer until they are done and will easily press through
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, .Sic., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
735
Vegetable Marrows — continued.
a sieve. Pass them with the stock through a fine sieve
into another saucepan, ami add another pint of the stock,
with salt and pepper to taste. Boil up, and just previous
to pouring it into the soup-tureen stir in 1 breakfast-
cupful of boiling cream.
Vegetable Marrows Stuffed with Pish. — -Cut the
Marrows into halves lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds
with some of the inside. Prepare the following stuffing :
Use the remains of any kind of boiled fish, free it from
skin and bone, put it in a mortar with two skinned and
boned anchovies, and pound it until smooth. Allow for
the fish half its quantity of grated breadcrumb, soak
them in milk until quite soft, then squeeze them as dry
as possible, and mix them with the fish. Pound the
mixture again with a quarter of its quantity of fresh
butter, season it to taste with salt, pepper, a small
quantity of grated nutmeg and moderate quantities of
powdered sweet herbs and spices, and work in a sufficient
quantity of beaten yolks of eggs to bind it. Stuff the
halves of Marrow with this, wrap each half separately in
a sheet of buttered paper, and tie it round with twine.
Lay them side by side in a buttered baking-tin, cover
them with a dish, and bake in a moderate oven.
When the Marrows are cooked, remove, lay them on a
hot-dish, pour some nicely-flavoured clear gravy over
them, and serve.
Vegetable-marrow Flowers would not appear at
first sight to be worthy of much culinary consideration,
being better employed in producing fruit. But now and
again the male flowers preponderate over the female
beyond what would be required for propagating ; they
can then be gathered when full blown and treated in the
following way, and form a very aesthetic dish.
Wash the flowers thoroughly, and fill with a mixture
of half-cooked rice, chopped veal, onions, and sweet herbs,
Fig. 999. Vegetable-marrow Flowers.
formed into a paste with egg. Put them into a saucepan
with a good supply of boiling stock, and cook them.
Take them out in half an hour, and serve on an ornamental
dish-paper (see Fig. 999).
VEIRGA. — A Russian table delicacy made from the
spinal-marrow of the sturgeon, by preparing it with
various aromatic spices. Preserved in bottles or jars,
it is sometimes exported to this country.
VELOUTE sauce. — See Sauces.
VELVET CAKE.— See Cakes.
VELVET CREAM.— See Cream.
VELVET SAUCE (VELOUTE).— See Sauces.
VENETIAN SAUCE.— See Sauces.
VENICE BISCUITS.— See Biscuits.
VENICE CAKE.— See Cakes.
VENISON {Ft. Venaison; Ger. Reh; Ital. Sattig-
gina; Sp. Yenado). — Under this title might be included
the flesh of all kinds of deer. Of these, the Fallow, or
Park Deer of England is considered superior to all. In
America several kinds of deer are found; in France
and Scotland the Roebuck abounds ; and in Ireland is
found the Red Deer. Under the heading Roebuck
V euisou — continued.
numerous receipts will be found that are applicable
to the flesh of these commoner kind of deer. The
flesh of the Fallow Deer is alone considered by
British cooks and epicures to be worthy of the name of
Venison.
When purchasing Venison care should be taken to see
that the fat is clear, bright, and thick, and the cleft of
the hoof should be smooth and
close. To ascertain if it be fresh,
run a sharp narrow knife or
silver skewer into the shoulder
or haunch, close to the bone.
The smell of the knife or skewer
will give the necessary informa-
tion; but, as it is customary to
keep Venison for a long time,
so as to bring out the game
flavour, the indications of freshly-
killed Venison are rarely met
with at the shop of the purveyor.
There is, however, a great differ-
ence observable between what
may be called stale Venison and
that which has been carefully
treated and hung. The vein in
the neck should be bluish, not
green or yellow. A faint smell
in the hind quarter, or under
the kidney, indicates stale meat.
If you can learn where Venison
has been reared, choose forest
Venison, as that is best, and
avoid that which has been stall
fed, for it is then usually fattened
with oil cake.
Venison should be at least
five years old. The buck comes
into season in May, and continues
prime till September, when the
doe Venison comes into season,
and continues till Christmas. A
deer is usually cut up into quarters
(see Fig. 1000), the hind-quarters
consisting of the leg (1) and the
loin (2) ; the leg and loin together
constituting the haunch. The
fore-quarters consist of the neck
(3), the best end of the neck (4),
bi’east (5), and shoulder (6). The
head (7) and the feet (8, 9) are usually thrown away,
but they make very good soup.
To keep Venison, be sure that you receive it fresh in the
first instance, then wipe it dry, and dust it over with a
floury cloth, or a poulterer’s mop, and hang it, cut end
upwards, in an airy place. If it be desired to keep it a
long time, use powdered ginger instead of flour. Should
the meat be a little musty, wash it first with lukewarm
water, then lukewarm milk-and-water. Wipe it perfectly
dry, and dust it with powdered ginger as before. Some
cooks have an idea that Venison should be constantly
saturated with wine during the time it is hung, but this
is a great mistake, there being not the least necessity for
the use of wine, excepting during cooking.
Baked L eg of Venison.— Saw off the shank of a leg of
Venison, trim off’ all the hard and black parts, wash it
well, and dry it on a cloth. Put 21b. of flour into a basin,
mix it into a soft paste with a little cold water, and roll
it out. The paste must be of a moderate thickness, as if
too thin it is liable to give way in places. Brush the
Venison over with a paste-brush dipped in warmed butter,
wrap it well in paste, put it in a baking pan with a small
quantity of water at the bottom to keep it from burning,
and place it in a moderate oven. While baking, moisten
the paste occasionally with a little water to keep it from
Fig. 1000. Method or
Cutting ui* Deer.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Jcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
736
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Venison — continued.
burning on the top and at the sides. The Venison
will take about an-hour-and-three-quarters to bake. When
nearly done, take the paste off it, put it into another
baking-pan, and brown it quickly in a brisk oven. Place the
Venison on a hot dish, strain the gravy from the baking-tin
over it (see Fig. 1000), and serve with red-currant jelly. The
object of the paste is to prevent the Venison becoming
too dry before it is cooked, and to keep in the full flavour.
Baked Saddle of Venison. — The saddle of Venison is the
double loin. Have the ribs cut off close to use for soup,
stew, or pastry. Wipe all the hairs off with a soft cloth
wetted with warm water, tie thickly -buttered paper over
the upper part of the saddle, lay it on a rack in a baking-
pan, and quickly brown the joint in a hot oven ; then remove
the paper, and season with salt and pepper. Put into the
dripping-pan 1 teacupful each of butter, boiling water, anil
red-currant jelly, and baste the Venison with this sauce
until it is entirely brown ; then serve it hot, with the
sauce in a boat.
Baked Venison. — The Venison should be hung till on the
point of turning, then cooked at once before it goes further.
Wash it well, put it in a stewpan with two or three
carrots and onions, two bay-leaves, about a table -spoonful
of juniper-berries, the same quantity of allspice, a few
cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; pour in a teacupful
of tarragon vinegar, and sufficient cold water to cover it.
Place the stewpan over the fire until the liquor comes to
the boil, then move it to the side and simmer until the
Venison is tender. Grate about fib. of stale bread, and
mix with it 1 table-spoonful of moist sugar and l teaspoon
ful each of powdered cinnamon and cloves. When cooked,
take the Venison out of the stewpan, brush it over with
a paste brush dipped in beaten egg, and spread the bread-
crumbs over it. Skim some of the fat off the cooking-
liquor, baste the Venison with it, and put it in a quick
oven until nicely browned ; then put it on a hot dish, and
serve it with a sauceboatful of fruit sauce.
Braised Venison Cutlets. — Lard the cutlets, and put them
into a stewpan with a bunch of thyme and parsley, two
carrots, and one onion sliced. Pour in a little gravy, and
braise the cutlets for twenty minutes. When cooked,
brush the cutlets over with a little melted glaze, arrange
them on a hot dish, and serve them with a sauceboatful
of piquant sauce.
Broiled Venison Chops. — Cut the chops of a moderate
thickness, remove the bones, and season the chops with
pepper and salt; then put them into a basin, baste them
with olive oil, and let them steep in it for two days.
When ready for them, put the chops on a greased gridiron,
and broil them over a clear fire for twenty minutes,
turning them when half done on to the other side. When
cooked, put the chops on a hot dish, brush them over with
a paste-brush dipped in glaze, and serve them with a dish
of butter.
Broiled Venison Chops with Chestnut Puree. — Take six
fine Venison chops, pare them, flatten a little, and place
them on a plate with 1 pinch of salt, h pinch of pepper,
and 1 table spoonful of oil. Roll them well in this season
ing, and put them to broil for four minutes on each side.
Put b pint of hot puree of chestnuts on a dish, place the
chops over, and serve with a gravy poured over all.
Venison — continued.
Broiled Venison Cutlets. — Cut some cutlets off the breast
of a doe, remove the chine- bone, and trim round the other
end of the bone ; beat the cutlets lightly, season them
with salt and pepper, lay them on a deep dish, spread
some chopped onions and parsley-leaves over them, cover
them with good oil, and let them macerate for two or
three hours in a cool place. Drain the cutlets, lay them on a
gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire, turning them
when done on one side and finishing the other. Make
some piquant sauce, and mix with it at the last 2 table-
spoonfuls of currant jelly. When the cutlets are nicely
browned, arrange them, overlapping each other, on a hot
dish, pour the prepared sauce over, and serve them.
Broiled Venison Steaks. — (1) Cut 2lb. or 31b. of Venison into
steaks about tin. thick, and broil them over a very hot
fire on a buttered gridiron for four minutes on each side.
While the steaks are being broiled, melt on a dish before
the fire, or in the oven, equal parts of red-currant jelly
and butter, 1 table-spoonful of each to every pound of
Venison, and a seasoning of salt and pepper ; put the steaks
on this when they are broiled, turn them over once, and
serve hot.
(2) Season the steaks with pepper and salt, and coat
them with rolled biscuits. Make a gridiron hot, grease it
with a piece of suet, lay the steaks on it, and broil them
over a clear fire. When broiled on one side, turn the
steaks carefully, and cook them on the other side. Put a
lump of butter in a basin, warm it, then mix with it a
little red-currant jelly that has been moistened with 1
wineglassful of port wine, seasoning it with pepper and
salt. When cooked, put the steaks on a hot dish, pour
the butter mixture over them, and serve.
Broiled Venison Steak with Mashed Potatoes. — The same
as for Broiled Venison Steaks, serving with 1 pint of
mashed potatoes and a little gravy.
Broiled Venison Steak with Puree of Chestnuts. — The
same as for Broiled Venison Steaks, serving with b pint
of puree of chestnuts.
Civet of Venison a la Franqaise. — -Prepare the Venison
the same as for Civet of Venison with Poivrade Sauce ;
after marinading it for twelve hours, drain it well from the
marinade- juice, place it in a saucepan with loz. of clarified
butter, and brown for ten minutes on a moderate fire ; then
add 3 table-spoonfuls of flour, constantly stirring while
adding it, and moistening with U wineglassfuls of red wine,
also 1 pint of hot broth. Season with t pinch of salt and
pinch of pepper, stir well again until boiling, and add
twelve peeled small onions and loz. of salt pork cut into
small, square pieces, also a bouquet garni. Cook all together
for forty minutes, and four minutes before serving add
twelve whole mushrooms. Dress on a hot dish, remove
the bouquet, decorate with fried bread croutons all round
the dish (see Fig. 1002), and serve.
Civet of Venison a la Parisienne. — The same as for Civet
of Venison a la Francaise, omitting the salt pork, and
substituting for it eighteen small mushrooms instead of
twelve.
Civet of Venison with Poivrade Sauce. — Procure 2Hb. of
Venison, the lower part if possible, as the lean parts are
preferable, and cut it into small square pieces ; lay these
in an earthenware jar, with one sliced onion, \ bunch of
parsley-roots, a sprigs of thyme, two bay-leaves, twelve whole
peppers, 2 pinches of salt, \ pinch of pepper, and \ wine-
glassful of vinegar. Let them marinade for twelve hours.
Drain off the juice, and put the Venison in a saute-pan
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
S n r
s e
dishes as
EN SURPRISE.
® w e e t Entremets or Centres
f o r
B u f f e t 8.
Pi*i nhed
Holland
C ' •
i ’ ’
■
.
. *
■
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
737
V enison — continued.
with loz. of clarified butter, and cook for ten minutes ;
then add 3 table-spoonfuls of flour, stirring well. Moisten
with li pints of broth, also the marinade liquor or juice,
well strained. Season with 1 pinch of salt and h pinch
of pepper, and cook for forty minutes longer. Arrange
the civet on a hot dish, sprinkle over a little chopped
parsley, and serve.
Tillets of Venison a la Portugaise. — Skin and trim two
minion fillets of deer, and lay them on a dish. Fry some
chopped vegetables, such as onions, turnips, &c., in butter,
and. pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the fillets. When
the vegetables are well soaked with the vinegar, season
it with salt, pepper, cloves, and spices. Pour the marinade
over the fillets, and leave them four hours. Drain the
fillets, lard them with fillets of bacon, lay them on a
buttered baking-sheet, dredge salt over them, cover with
a sheet of buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven
for about half-an-hour. Meanwhile prepare the following
sauce : Finely chop the peel of two lemons and two
oranges, put them in a saucepan with a little water, boil
them till tender, and then strain off the water. Pour
4 pint of wine into a stewpan, and boil it till reduced to
half its original quantity ; then mix with it 1 teacupful
of good gravy and the boiled peel, and boil it up again.
Mix 1 table -spoonful of potato-flour to a smooth cream
with a small quantity of water, stir it in with the sauce,
and continue boiling it for a few minutes, keeping it well
stirred. Mix 1 teacupful of washed currants with the sauce
and 2oz. of blanched and shredded sweet almonds, squeeze
in the juice of the two oranges, and add 1 pinch of
cayenne and a small quantity of grated pomegranate-
peel. Move the sauce to the side of the fire till wanted.
When the fillets are cooked (they must not be dry), cut
them into slices, lay them on a hot dish, pour over the
sauce, and serve without delay.
Fillet of Venison a la Saint Hubert. — Lard with strips
of bacon some thick slices cut from a fillet of Veni-
son. Put a lump of butter into a saucepan, and warm it
over the fire ; then put in the slices of Venison, a bunch
of sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and cover them with red
wine and stock in equal quantities. Stew the Venison
by the side of the fire, then stir in a little brown thicken-
ing, and add a lump of sugar and some sliced gherkins.
When cooked, turn the Venison on to a hot dish, and
serve it without delay.
Fried Venison Chops. — Season the chops with pepper and
salt, put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter,
and fry them over a clear fire, turning them often. Trim
some mushrooms, put them in a small saucepan with h
pint of brown gravy, season it with pepper and salt, and
let them simmer gently while the chops are cooking. In
about twenty minutes’ time the chops should be cooked ;
then put them on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them,
and serve.
Fried Venison Cutlets— Trim the cutlets, season them
with pepper and salt, and brush them over with warmed
butter. Dust the cutlets lightly over with flour, then roll
them in beaten egg and cover them thickly with bread-
crumbs. Put a lump of lard in a deep frying-pan, and
when boiling put in the cutlets, and fry them for ten or
fifteen minutes, turning them when done on one side.
When cooked, drain the cutlets on paper in front of the
fire for a minute or two, then put them on a hot dish,
pour some financiere sauce round, and serve them while
very hot.
Fried Venison Steak.— (1) Put a thick steak of Venison in
the frying-pan with 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, and brown
it quickly on both sides, seasoning it with salt and pepper.
Serve it with the gravy it yields and red-cun-ant jelly
poured over it. See Fig. 1003.
(2) Cut the steak into nice-sized pieces, beat them well
with a steak-beater, put them in a frying-pan with a
little lard, and fry them till nicely browned. Prepare the
gravy with some trimmings of Venison, mix a small
quantity of milk with it, and season it with salt, pepper,
and a lump of sugar. Work a small lump of butter with a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
VOL. II.
Venison — continued.
little flour, then mix it in the gravy, and stir it over the
fire till thick. Put the slices of Venison on a hot dish,
pour the gravy over them, and serve.
Fig. 1003. Fried Venison Steaks.
Frizzled Venison. — Cut into slices as thin as possible about
lib. of Venison from the leg, or from any lean part. Put
into a frying-pan over the fire 1 heaped table -spoonful of
butter and 2 table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly, and
when they are hot put in the Venison, seasoning it rather
highly with pepper and salt. Cook it for about five
minutes, stirring it frequently, and serve at once. The
Venison may be frizzled at the table in a chafing-dish.
Haricot of Venison. — Cut the flesh off a shoulder of
Venison into pieces about 2in. square. Put the pieces in
a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry them over a
quick fire till well browned ; then drain off the fat, dredge
a small quantity of flour over, and stir it till well mixed.
Season the meat with pepper and salt, cover it with
water or broth, and stir it over the fire till it boils ; then
move to the side of the fire, and keep it well skimmed.
Wash four carrots, and with a vegetable -cutter cut the
light part into balls, and boil them in salted water for
half-an-hour. Cut a turnip up in the same way, and boil
for twenty minutes. Strain the vegetables, put them into
the stewpan with the Venison, add 1 wineglassful of port
wine and 2 table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly, and finish
cooking. Turn the haricot on to a very hot dish, and
serve it immediately.
Hashed Venison. — (1) If there is not sufficient Venison gravy
available, boil the bones and trimmings of the cooked joint
with some -whole vegetables and a little allspice until the
vegetables are nearly cooked enough. Set a stewpan over
the fire, and put a piece of butter into it ; when that melts
add to it as much flour as will take it up, and stir it -well ;
then strain over it by degrees the stock made from the
bones and trimmings of the joints, stirring and mixing it
well with the flour. Continue stirring till it boils, and
boil for ten minutes ; then add to it some red-currant jelly,
give it a boil up, and skim it. Cut up the vegetables
into slices and add them to the hash. Put in the slices of
Venison, draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, as it
must not boil after the meat is put in, and let it remain
till the Venison is thoroughly hot. Garnish the dish with
sippets of toast. Serve as hot as possible.
(2) Take all the best pieces of meat from some cold
Venison, and cut them into thin slices ; put the remainder
with the bones and a small onion into a stewpan, moisten
to height with cold water, and stew gently at the side of
the fire for an hour-and-a-half. Put loz. of butter in another
stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, and stir them over
the fire until mixed ; then strain in the liquor from the
bones, put in about 2 table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly,
and boil gently for half-an-hour longer. If there is any
gravy left with the Venison, put that in also. When the
sauce is ready, put in the slices of Venison with 3 table-
spoonfuls of port wine, and keep it at the edge of the
fire without boiling. When 'the Venison is hot through,
turn the hash on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of
toast, or small triangles of bread that have been fried in
butter, and serve.
(3) Put four cloves, one onion, and half a finely-chopped
anchovy into a saucepan, pour in 1 teacupful of port
wine, 1 table -spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and 1 table -
spoonful of browning, and boil it. Cut some cold roast
Venison into thin slices, put it in with the wine, and
boil it for five minutes. Turn the hash on to a hot dish,
garnish it with small egg balls, and serve it with a glass'
dish of red-currant jelly.
Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 B
738
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Venison — continued.
(4) Cook some anchovies in a saucepan till they are
quite dissolved, then add to them a few oysters with their
liquor, some red wine, a little ketchup, and a little milk.
Let this sauce boil up, then add the cooked Venison cut
into slices, and let it get quite hot, hut do not let the
sauce boil after the Venison is put in. When thoroughly
hot, put the slices of Venison on a dish, lay sippets of
fried bread round, and pour the sauce over it.
(5) The following is a good way of using up the remains
of cold roasted Venison. Mix 1 teacupful of Madeira with
any Venison gravy that may have been left, and boil it
till reduced to half-glaze. Mix 2 teaspoonfuls of arrow-
root to a smooth batter with a little cold water, mix it
in with the sauce, and stir it over the fire till thick ;
then take it off, add a small piece of glaze and 2 table-
spoonfuls of red-currant jelly, and stir the sauce by the
side of the lire till the jelly has melted. Cut the Venison
into thin slices, put them in the sauce, and warm them
up without allowing them to boil. Turn the hash on to
a hot dish, and serve it.
(6) Trim off the outside parts of some cold cooked
Venison, and cut the meat into thin slices. Put the bones
and trimmings into a stewpan with any gravy that may
be left, 1 breakfast-cupful each of clear stock and claret,
2 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped shallots, three or four
cloves, and 1 teaspoonful of ketchup. Put the lid on the
stewpan, and keep the contents simmering at the side of
the fire for about an hour-and-a-half. When ready, put
into a saucepan loz. of butter, with 1 table -spoonful of
flour, and stir it over the fire ; when well mixed, strain
in the above liquor, and stir the whole until boiling again.
Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper, and leave
it until cold ; then put in the slices of Venison, and warm
all together at the side of the fire. It should take nearly
two hours to get hot. Turn the hash on to a hot dish,
garnish it with small croutons of bread that have been
fried brown in butter, and serve it with red-currant jelly.
(7) Finely chop 21b. or 31b. of Venison, put it into a
saucepan with a few table -spoonfuls of stock, and bring
it gently to the boil ; then stir in 2 or 3 table -spoonfuls of
red -currant jelly, sprinkle in a little cayenne, and add 1
wineglassful of port wine. Remove the pan from the fire,
turn the whole on to a hot dish, and serve with cut
cooked French beans for garnish.
(8) Cut the Venison into thin slices, and mix with 4
table -spoonful of caster sugar, 1 saltspoonful of cayenne
pepper, and 4 saltspoonful of salt; add to these 1 wine-
glassful of port wine, 2 table-spoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce,
the strained juice of half a lemon, and a few drops of
mushroom ketchup. Stand the basin containing this
mixture in a pan of hot water, and heat it gradually.
Thicken 14 breakfast-cupfuls of brown gravy with flour
and butter, put in the slices of Venison, and stew them
gently at the edge of the fire until thoroughly hot. Four
the mixture in the basin in with the Venison, turn all on
to a hot dish, and serve.
Necks of Venison a la Bohemienne. — Cut the shoulders
oft' two necks of Venison, not too deep, then cut the
breast oft' rather narrow, pass the knife between the rib
bones and the flesh to separate them, saw the bones oft'
half-way up, and skewer the flap over. Remove the chine-
bones from the flesh, and saw them off. Lard the necks,
and lay them in a deep dish with a few thin slices of
carrots, turnips, onion, and leek, and a few pieces of
celery. Put lqt. of vinegar and 1 pint of broth in a
saucepan, mix with it two blades of mace, 4 teaspoonful
each of cloves and peppercorns, 41b. of moist sugar, three
bay-leaves, and a small bunch of sweet herbs, composed of
a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Boil
the vinegar and seasoning for twenty minutes, then pour
it over the meat, seeing that it is well covered. Leave
the Venison in the marinade until the following day,
turning it occasionally ; then drain it, wrap each neck
separately in sheets of oiled paper, and roast them for an
hour in front of a clear fire. Put lqt. of poivrade sauce
in a saucepan, and place it over the fire ; when it boils,
put in, in equal quantities, some stoned French olives,
small pickled onions, and pickled mushrooms. When cooked,
Venison — continued.
remove the paper from the fillets, glaze them, and brown
the tops of them under a salamander. Put them on a
hot dish, pour the sauce round them, and serve.
Neck of Venison a, la Corinthienne. — Cut the shoulder
off two necks of Venison, but not too deep, and cut
the breast off rather narrow ; separate the flesh from the
rib-bones to half-way up, then saw off the bones, and
skewer the flap over ; detach the chine-bones from the
flesh, saw them oft’, and lard. Lay the necks in a deep
dish with a few sliced carrots, turnips, onions, one leek,
and two heads of celery cut up. Put lqt. of vinegar into
a saucepan with l pint of broth, three bay-leaves, one or
two blades of mace, 4 teaspoonful each of cloves and
peppercorns, 41b. of raw sugar, a small quantity of salt,
and a small bunch of sweet herbs, composed of a few
sprigs of parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Boil the
vinegar and seasoning for twenty minutes, then pour it
over the meat and vegetables in the dish. Turn the necks
occasionally, and leave them until the following day ; then
drain them from the marinade, tie them up in sheets of
buttered paper, and roast them in front of a clear fire for
an hour. Strain 4 pint of the marinade liquor through a
fine hair sieve into a saucepan, and mix with it 2 wine-
glassfuls of port wine anil 2 table-spoonfuls of finely-
chopped shallots, and boil it until reduced to half its
original quantity. Thoroughly wash 41b. of currants, and
soak them in boiling water. When the sauce has been re-
duced, mix with it lqt. of brown sauce and stir it over the
fire until it forms a thick cream, then mix with it 1 table-
spoonful of currant jelly. Strain it through a fine hair sieve
into another saucepan, drain the currants, add them to the
sauce, and boil it up again. When the necks are cooked,
remove the paper, glaze them, and brown the tops under
a salamander. Arrange them on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over, and serve while very hot.
Potted Venison. — Cut some cold cooked Venison into thin
slices ; put 41b. of butter into a stewpan with a small quan-
tity of spices, such as grated nutmeg, mace, cloves, and I white
pepper, place it over the fire, and when melted put in the
meat, and for every pound add 1 table -spoonful of currant
jelly and 1 wineglassful of red wine. Let the meat simmer
in the butter for twenty minutes, then take it out, mince
it finely, and pound in a mortar. When quite smooth,
pass the meat through a fine wire sieve, and mix the
cooking butter and gravy with it. Pack it in small jars,
and press it down tightly, leaving a clear Jin. space at the
top. Fill the jars with clarified butter, and when it has
got cold, tic the jars over tightly and put them away till
required for use.
Roasted Pillet of Venison. — Lard the fillet of Venison with
narrow strips of bacon, trimming it neatly ; put it in a
basin with one onion stuck with three cloves, a bunch
of sweet herbs, a little coarse black pepper, and cover with
equal quantities of white wine and vinegar ; let it soak for
two days. At the end of that time roast the fillet in
front of a clear fire, basting it constantly with the
marinading stock. When cooked, put the fillet on a hot
dish, mix a little of the basting-liquor with some poivrade
sauce, and serve it in a sauceboat with the fillet.
Roasted Fore-quarter of Venison. — Bone the Venison,
beat it well, and rub it over with salt. Prepare a paste of
flour, eggs, a pinch of salt, and a little water, and lea^e
it in a cool place for an hour; then roll it out thinly,
cover it with slices of bacon, lay the Venison on the bacon,
dust some pepper and salt over it, and wrap it up. Damp
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
739
Venison — continued.
the edges of the paste with water, and press them firmly
together, wrap the whole in a sheet of buttered paper,
and roast it in front of a clear fire. A quarter-of-an-hour
before taking the Venison up, remove the paper and paste.
When cooked, take the joint carefully off the spit, put it
on a hot dish (see Fig. 1004), and serve it with red-currant
jelly, and a sauceboatful of poivrade sauce.
Roasted Haunch of Venison. — (1) The haunch should
always hang a considerable length of time, as the delicacy
of its flavour is only obtained in this way ; if it be cooked
while fresh, it will not equal in taste even a haunch of
mutton. When about to be roasted it should be washed in
warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth ; if it
has hung very long and the skin smells musty, it will be
the safest plan to remove the skin and wrap the whole of
the haunch in paper well greased with butter. While
roasting, it will require to be constantly basted. If it be
a buck haunch, and large, it will take four hours or
within five or ten minutes of it ; but if comparatively
small, three-hours -and -a- half will suffice. If a doe haunch,
three-hours-and-a-quarter will be enough. Remove the
paper when it is sufficiently cooked, and dredge quickly
with flour to produce a froth. Dish (see Fig. 1005), and serve
at once. The gravy should be sent to table in a sauceboat,
accompanied by red-currant jelly. The haunch is not
unfrequently roasted in a paste, which also is enclosed in
paper, and removed when the joint is nearly cooked.
(2) Wash a haunch of Venison and lard it, put it in a
basin with 1 pint of salad-oil and £ pint of port wine,
season with a sprig of thyme, two or three cloves, a little
salt and pepper, and let it steep for two days. At the end
of that time fix the Venison on a spit, and roast it in
front of a clear fire, basting it often with the liquor in which
it was marinaded. When well browned, run a skewer
through the Venison to ascertain if it is tender ; if so,
put it on a hot dish, pour some rich brown gravy round
it, and serve with a sauceboatful of poivrade sauce.
(3) Cut part of the knuckle off a haunch of Venison,
saw off the chine-bone, and fold the flap over. Make a
stiff paste with some flour and water, spread it thickly
over the Venison, and tie in a sheet of thick paper ; put
it in a cradle-spit, place it close to the fire, and baste
occasionally with hot dripping. When the paste has
crusted, remove the Venison a little farther from the fire,
and roast it for about four hours, keeping up a good clear
fire. At the end of that time, take the Venison up,
remove the paste and paper, try if it is cooked enough by
running a skewer through it, which should go through
easily. Put the Venison on a hot dish, glaze it, and brown
it under a salamander; pour some rich gravy round, and
serve it with some red-currant jelly in a glass dish.
(4) Cover the Venison with a thick sheet of well-
greased paper and bind it round with twine : put it in a
baking-pan, place 2oz. of butter in small pieces on the top,
and set it in a brisk oven. Bake the Venison for two hours,
keeping it well basted. At tlie end of that time remove
the paper from the Venison, put another large lump of
butter on the top, pour 1 teacupful of claret into the
baking-dish, and return it to the oven. Baste the meat
often with the claret and butter in the pan ; then, when
baked for three-quarters-of-an-hour longer, take it out of
the oven and put it on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the
gravy. Put 3 table-spoonfuls of flour into a small sauce-
pan, stir in slowly 1 breakfast-cupful of cold water, 1
teacupful of claret, and the skimmed gravy, scraping the
sides of the pan well to mix in the brown ; season the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
V enison — continued.
gravy to taste with salt and pepper, and stir it over the
fire until boiling. Mix a few drops of caramel with the
gravy, stirring it very quickly at the same time, then
strain it through a fine hair sieve over the Venison, and
serve immediately with red-currant jelly.
(5) English Style. — All the cut parts of the Venison
should be dusted over with a small quantity of pepper
before it is hung. When ready to cook the Venison, wash
it in a little warm water, dry it on a clean cloth, and
wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper. Make a flour-and-
water paste, cover the Venison with it, taking care that
there are no cracks in it, cover with another sheet of
buttered paper, and tie it securely round with string.
Fix the Venison in a cradle-spit and roast it before a
clear fire, keeping it well basted. It will require from
three hours to three-hours-and-a-quarter to cook. When
cooked, remove the paste and paper from the Venison,
place it on a hot dish, prick the Venison slightly at the
end with the point of a knife to let the gravy run out, and
serve with red-currant jelly.
Roast Leg of Venison. — Remove the dry skin from the leg,
wipe it with a damp cloth, and cover with a flour-and-water
paste. Put the Venison in a baking-tin and roast in a
very hot oven. Baste the meat constantly, cook it for
an -hour- and -a -half, then remove the paste, coat it with
butter, and dredge well with flour. Cook for one hour
longer, basting frequently with butter, salt, and flour.
When cooked, put the Venison on a hot dish, and serve it
with a sauceboatful of game sauce. The above time is
given for a leg weighing 151b.
Roasted Neck and Shoulder of Venison. — These joints
together may be dressed like the haunch, covered with a
thin paste, and greased paper over that ; it will take two-
hours-and-a-half, or, if very large, three hours to roast.
They should be served up with Venison sauce and red-
currant jelly.
Roasted Saddle of Venison. — (1) Procure a small saddle of
Venison weighing about 5lb., pare it neatly, remove the
sinews from the surface, and lard it with a larding-
needle as finely as possible, tying it three times round.
Put into a roasting-pan one sliced onion and one sliced
carrot, lay in the saddle, seasoning with ] pinch of salt,
spread over J2oz. of butter, and put it in a brisk oven to
roast for forty minutes, basting it frequently with its own
gravy. Untie before lifting it from the pan, and arrange
it on a hot dish. Pour into the pan \ wineglassful of
Madeira wine and 1 gill of white broth, and let it come
to the boil on the stove. Skim off the fat, strain the
lean part over the saddle, and serve with b pint of hot
currant-jelly sauce in a sauceboat.
(2) Wipe the Venison over with a damp cloth, having
first carefully scraped off the hair, roll and skewer it,
season with salt and pepper, mb it over with butter just
warmed, and dredge it thickly with flour. Fix the Venison
on a spit, and roast it in front of a good clea'i fire, bast-
ing frequently. W hen about half cooked, baste the Venison
with claret. Skim off all the fat from the dripping in the
pan, pour in 1 breakfast-cupful of boiling water, stir well,
and stand it at the corner of the stove to keep hot. Put
a slice of onion in a frying-pan with a little butter, five
or six peppercorns, and four cloves. Fry the onion till
brown, then dredge in a small quantity of flour ; brown
that, then stir in gradually the gravy in the pan. Boil
it for a minute, then strain the gravy and mix in a
squeeze of lemon-juice and 3 table-spoonfuls of red-currant
jelly with it. Put the Venison on to a hot dish, and
serve with the gravy while very hot.
(3) German Style. — Prepare a saddle of buck, cut the
rib-bones off short, and if the loins are not covered with
fat take oft the skin ; or put the saddle, without cutting
off the bones, into a stewpan, with a little salt, and pour
over it about \ gall, of cooked marinade. Cover with a
napkin or cloth, put it in a cool place, and let it remain
to macerate for a day. Turn it frequently. About four
hours before the saddle is wanted to be served, take it
out, drain, wipe it dry on a cloth, put it in a pan for
roasting with a small piece of butter and a pinch of salt,
Sauces, dc., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 b 2
740
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Venison — continued.
cover with buttered paper, and put in the oven for an
hour and-a-half, hasting it frequently. Next pour into the
pan \ pint each of marinade and sour cream, and haste
frequently with this. When ready, dish it; add a little
gravy to the stock in which it was cooked, boil it up,
reduce to the thickness of a light sauce, and pour over.
Roasted Shoulder of Venison (French Style). — Bone and
stuff a shoulder of Venison, lard it, and either roast or
hake it, protecting the lardoons with several thicknesses of
buttered paper. If the meat is hasted while it is being
cooked, take care not to haste the larded part, because
that would soften the lardoons. When the Venison is
nearly done, season with salt and cayenne, remove the
buttered paper, brown the lardoons, and then remove the
skins used to confine the stuffing, and serve the Venison
hot with red-currant jelly, or any suitable sauces.
Roasted Venison. — (1) The loin, saddle, haunch, or shoulder
of Venison may be roasted. After the piece has been care-
fully trimmed and freed from hairs, wipe it with a wet
towel, season with salt and pepper, cover with several thick
nesses of buttered paper, or with a paste made of flour and
water, to retain its juice, put it before the fire, and roast it,
twenty minutes for each pound. Take off the paper or paste
and quickly brown the Venison. If a frothed appearance is
desired, dredge the meat with flour, and baste it with butter
before browning it. Serve very hot with red-currant jelly.
(2) German Style. — Hang the Venison for fourteen
days in a cold dry place, then wash and dry it well ; beat
it on the table and flay off the skin. Lard the fleshiest
parts of the Venison with strips of bacon, fix it on a
spit, roast before a clear brisk fire, and baste constantly
with sour cream. When the Venison is cooked, put it
on a hot dish, pour sufficient broth or water in the
basting'-pan to make a gravy, place it over the fire,
season it to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, anti
stir it well until hot. Strain it through a fine hair sieve
over the Venison, anti serve.
Saddle of Venison a la Polonnaise. — Prepare a saddle or
haunch of a buck (one that has not been fattened for pre-
ference), place it in a stewpan, and add 2qts. of cooked
marinade stock. Let it remain in this for four hours, turning
frequently; take it out, let it drain, lard the fillets with
bacon, place it in a braising-pan, and moisten to half
the height of the meat with broth and a small quantity
of its marinade. Braise it on a moderate fire, and baste
frequently. Dish it up, and garnish with a pile of round
truffles and two of mushrooms, stuffed, along the sides, and
a pile of sour-crout at each end. Pour over a little brown
sauce that has been prepared with the meat, and serve
the remainder of the sauce in a sauceboat.
Stewed Breast of Venison. — Skin the breast, remove the
bones, and tie the meat round to the shape of a round of
beef. Place a few slices of carrots and onions in a stew-
pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, put in the meat, and
season to taste with pepper, salt, and a few cloves.
Moisten to height with claret and stock in equal quanti
ties, put the lid on the stewpan, and let the contents
simmer at the side of the fire for three hours, turning the
meat occasionally. When ready, put loz. of butter in a
stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, stir it over the fire
until mixed, then strain in enough of the cooking-stock of
the Venison to make a sufficient quantity of sauce. Stir
it over the fire until boiling and thickened, and squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon. Put the meat on a hot dish,
pour the sauce round, and serve.
Stewed Shoulder or Breast of Venison. — Let the Venison
hang till tender, bone it then, and beat well with a rolling-
pin. Lay on it some slices of mutton-fat (bat have been
steeping for five hours in port wine, season with finely-
powdered pepper and allspice, roll it up tight, and bind
into shape with tape. Put it over the fire in a small
stewpan with some stock (not strong) of beef or mutton,
h pint of port wine, the bones of the Venison, and a few
grains of whole pepper and whole allspice. Cover the pan
closely, and let it stew as slowly as possible for three or
four hours according to size. When the meat is thoroughly
V eni son — continued .
done, lay it on a hot dish, cut the tapes, and remove
them; strain the gravy over it, and serve with currant -
jelly sauce. This way of cooking breast or shoulder is
only suitable if the Venison is lean ; if it is fat, it should
be roasted.
Stewed Shoulder of Venison. — (l)When hung till tender,
remove the bones from a shoulder of Venison, and beat
the meat. Cut some thin slices of rather fat mutton, let
them macerate in a small quantity of port wine for a
few hours, then drain and put them on the Venison.
Season the Venison with salt, pepper, and allspice, roll
it round and tie it up tightly, and put it in a stew-
pan with h pint of port wine, 1 pint of mutton broth,
1 teaspoonful of allspice, and a small quantity of pepper.
Put the lid on the stewpan, and let the liquor simmer
slowly by the side of the fire for four hours. When
cooked, cut the string oft' the Venison, put it on a hot
dish, strain the cooking-liquor over, anil serve with a dish
of red -currant jelly.
(2) Select a very lean shoulder of Venison, bone it,
cover with slices of mutton-fat, which should be steeped
in port wine to give a richer flavour, roll it up, and bind
tightly. Lay it in a stewpan with a quantity of beef
gravy and its bones, add 2 wineglassfuls of port wine, 1
dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and the same quantity
of allspice. Cover closely, and simmer until the Venison
is tender ; take it out and remove the fat, thicken the
gravy with flour and butter, strain it over the meat, and
serve.
Stewed Venison. — Cut the meat into rather small square
pieces. Put about 3oz. of butter in a stewpan, melt it,
then dredge in a small quantity of flour, stirring at the
same time to mix it with the butter. Put in 2 or 3
table-spoonfuls of bacon cut into small squares, two
chopped shallots, six small onions, two cloves of garlic,
and a few mushrooms. Put in the meat, season with salt
and pepper, and pour in sufficient claret and water, mixed
in equal quantities, to cover the whole. Boil the meat
gently at the side of the fire until tender, then take it
out of the stewpan, skim the fat off’ the sauce, remove
the garlic, and boil it quickly until rather thick and
brown. Arrange the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce
and other ingredients over it, and serve.
Stewed Venison Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. — Divide a
neck of Venison into cutlets, trim them, beat them lightly, and
lard with narrow strips of bacon. Line a stewpan with slices
of bacon, some trimmings and minced vegetables, put in the
cutlets, and cover them with stock. Boil the liquor till
reduced to half its original quantity and the cutlets are
cooked. Prepare some thick tomato sauce, put it on a
hot dish, and arrange the cutlets on it. Strain the cooking-
liquor, mix l wineglassful of port wine with it, pour it
over the cutlets, and serve.
Venison a la Minute. — Use small slices of Venison about
Jin. thick. Put into a chafing-dish sufficient butter and
red currant jelly in equal parts to cover the bottom of the
dish. Season the Venison with salt and pepper, lay it in
the dish on the jelly and butter, and cook it for three
minutes on each side, then serve it. As this dish can be
prepared at the table, it is considered a very pleasing
addition to a small lunch or breakfast-table.
Venison Collops. — (1) Trim off the skin and sinews from
any remains of cold cooked Venison, finely chop the flesh,
anil mix with it a third of the quantity of finely-minced
bacon, and 1 teacupful of finely-grated* breadcrumb.
Season the mixture to taste with salt, pepper, and a
small quantity of mixed herbs, and bind it to a stiff paste
with beaten egg. When well worked together, divide the
mixture into small quantities, which roll into balls,
flatten them, and dip them in beaten egg and then in
breadcrumbs. Put a lump of butter in a frying-pan, melt
it, put in the collops, and fry them until nicely browned
on both sides. When cooked, drain them, arrange them
in a group on a hot dish that has been spread with a
fancy dish paper or folded napkin, and serve with a
sauceboatful of piquant sauce.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
741
Venison — continued.
(2) Cut 2lb. of lean meat from a haunch of Venison and
chop it very fine. Put 2oz. of butter into a frying-pan,
dredge it with flour, and when browned put in the minced
Venison, and keep stirring it with a fork till it is all
nicely cooked. Put some Venison gravy seasoned with
salt and plenty of pepper into a saucepan, add to it the
Venison from the frying-pan, and let it stew for half-an-
hour ; add a little port wine, and serve.
(3) Cut some uncooked Venison into thin collops, trim
them to a nice shape, and rub them over well on both
sides with salt, pepper, and mixed spices. Put a good-
sized lump of butter into a flat stewpan, place it over
the fire until blue smoke rises, then put in the collops,
and fry them till nicely browned on both sides. Drain
the fat off the collops, and add an equal quantity each of
rich brown gravy and red wine, 1 table -spoonful each of
vinegar and mushroom ketchup, and 1 teaspoonful of
sugar. Keep the stewpan at the edge of the fire, and let
the contents stew gently until the collops are tender.
When cooked, arrange the collops on a hot dish, strain
their cooking-liquor over them, and serve hot.
Venison Croquettes. — Chop fine as much cold roasted
Venison as will fill a breakfast-cup; mix it with nearly
loz. of sifted breadcrumbs and a seasoning of chopped
parsley, powdered mace, and a very little grated lemon-
peel. Place on the fire in a saucepan 4 pint of good
gravy, well thickened with browned flour, and stir into it a
teaspoonful of currant jelly ; when the jelly is well stirred
into the gravy, add the meat and breadcrumbs ; when it
is pretty hot, take it from the fire and stir in a beaten
egg. Let the mixture cool, then make it up into rather
thick rolls about 2in. long ; brush them over with egg, roll
them in a paper of sifted breadcrumbs, and fry in boiling
lard ; drain them on kitchen-paper, arrange them on a
hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Serve with
them, in a sauce boat, some good brown gravy thickened
with browned flour, with a little currant jelly and claret
stirred into it.
Venison Pie or Pasty. — (1) Bone a breast of Venison (if
the pie is to be large nse two breasts), beat it flat, and
lard it through and through with lardoons well seasoned
with finely-chopped sweet herbs and all sorts of spices.
Roll it up very tightly, and tie it into shape firmly with
strong twine. Put the bones and trimmings into a stew-
pan together with allspice, peppercorns, a bay-leaf, parsley,
thyme, onions, carrots, and one clove of garlic ; add a
little water, and let all stew together till nearly dry ; then
fill up the stewpan with mutton or beef thick gravy and
watfjr, half of each, and let it simmer till the vegetables
are done. Then put in the rolled breast of Venison, lay
buttered paper over, close the lid of the stewpan tightly,
and let it stew till sufficiently done with fire under and
over it. When done enough, take the stewpan from the
fire, and let the Venison, &c., remain in it till almost
cold. Make a plain paste crust of flour, one fourth its
weight of butter, and sufficient water to mix it ; make it
as the crust for a raised pie is made, but mix it soft
instead of stiff. Lay a very thick strip of this crust over
the edge of the dish. Then remove the twine from the
Venison, skin it, put it into the dish, and pour in some
of the gravy it was stewed in : place on a good thick
cover of the paste, trim it neatly, make a hole in the
top, which may be hidden by an ornament made of the
paste, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a moder-
ate oven for three or four hours. Reduce what remains
of the liquor- it was boiled in, and when the pie is baked
pour it in by means of a funnel inserted in the hole in
the top of the crust. Let it stand till quite cold, and
then serve on a second dish (see Fig. 1006).
(2) Cut lib. or 2lb. of Venison into small slices, and
lay them in a deep dish, with slices of Venison- or mutton-
fat between the slices of Venison, seasoning the layers of
meat with salt, pepper, and powdered allspice. Pour into
the dish a gravy made by stewing the trimmings of
Venison in water enough to cover them, with salt and
pepper, for an hour ; or with any good meat broth and
claret mixed in equal proportions ; or 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
V enison — continued.
juice ; 1 gill of port wine may be substituted for the
claret: When wine is not used, a very little chopped onion
is put into Venison patties. If the Venison is tender, the
crust may be put on the pie at once, otherwise it is well
to bake the Venison for an hour before covering with
paste. Either use a bottom crust, or run a strip of paste
round the sides of the dish and wet the edges to make
Fig. 1006. Venison Pie.
the upper crust adhere. Make a groove in the top crust,
cut several slits to permit the escape of steam, brush the
surface with beaten egg, and bake slowly for two hours.
Serve either hot or cold, as desired.
(3) Make a good plain paste, and line an earthenware
pudding-dish with it Jin. thick. Chop enough beef-suet
very fine to make Jin. layer next the crust at the
bottom and top of the pie. Cut off sufficient Venison-meat
from the bones, and divide it into pieces about lin. square,
season rather highly with salt, pepper, and ground cloves,
and lay it in the dish ; pour over 1 wineglassful of red
wine for every 21b. of Venison, cover with a layer of
chopped suet and then with paste, wetting the edges of
the upper and under crusts to make them adhere. Cut
several places in the top crust to permit the escape of
steam in baking, and brush the surface with beaten egg.
Bake the pie in a moderately hot oven for two hours, or
until the Venison is tender, which can be ascertained by
thrusting a skewer into the meat through one of the cuts
in the top crust. While the pie is being baked, stew the
bones of the Venison in enough water to cover them,
adding a good seasoning of salt and pepper. When the
pie is done, pour the gravy thus made into it through the
cuts in the top crust, and serve hot.
(4) Remove the bones and skin from a neck of Venison,
and cut the meat into small square pieces; put them in a
stewpan with two shallots, two blades of mace, 1 dessert-
spoonful of allspice, salt and pepper, 1 teacupful of port
wine, and sufficient veal broth to cover. Stand the stew-
pan over a clear fire, and cook the meat slowly till three-
parts done. Take the best-shaped pieces of Venison out
of the stewpan, put them in a deep baking-dish, pour a
little of the gravy over them, and leave till cold. Put
the bones and trimmings of the Venison in the remainder
of the gravy, and boil for twenty minutes. Prepare some
raised pie-crust, cover the Venison with it, trim it off at
the edges, ornament the top with leaves, &c., imitated in
paste, and bake in a slow oven for about three hours.
Strain the gravy off the bones, skim it well, mix 1 wine-
glassful of port wine and the juice of a lemon with it,
add a small lump of butter that has been worked with a
little flour, and stir it over the fire till thick. When
cooked, pour the prepared gravy into the pasty, and serve.
(5) Cut a breast of Venison into small pieces, sprinkle
some finely minced parsley, thyme, ami shallot over them,
and dust with a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt ;
roll each piece of Venison up separately and fry them
lightly in butter. Butter the edges of a pie-dish, and line
them with puff paste, then put in the pieces of Venison.
With the trimmings of Venison make 1 breakfast-cupful
of gravy ; pour this in the dish with 1 teacupful of port
wine and the juice of half a lemon. Cover the pie with
puff paste, put it in a moderate oven, and bake for nearly
For detail * respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, etc., referred to, see under their special heads.
742
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Venison — continued.
Venison — continued.
two hours. When cooked, make a slight opening at the
top of the pasty, pour in a little more gravy, and serve.
(6) American. — Cut 31b. of Venison into small square
pieces (the parings are preferable), place them in a sauce-
pan with loz. of butter, and brown them well for six
minutes; then add 1 table -spoonful of flour, stir well, and
. moisten with lqt. of white broth ; then throw in six small
glazed white onions, a bouquet garni, . 2 pinches of salt,
1 pinch of pepper, and A pinch of nutmeg. Cook on the
stove for forty-five minutes with the lid on. When
done, turn the stew into a deep dish, cover with a good
pie-crust, carefully wetting the edges, brush over the
surface with beaten egg, make two incisions on each
side and a small hole in the centre, and bake in the oven
for forty minutes. Cover a dish with a folded napkin,
lay upon this the dish containing the pie, and serve.
Venison Pudding. — Finely chop fib. of Venison-suet, mix
with it 1,1b. of oatmeal, and season with pepper and salt.
Fill some well-cleaned sausage-skins with the mixture, tie
them securely at the ends, and prick them with a fork to
prevent their bursting. Put the puddings into a saucepan
of boiling water and boil them for an hour. When cooked,
drain the puddings, arrange them on a dish-paper or a
folded napkin on a hot dish, and serve with oatmeal cakes.
Venison Salad. — Cut some roast Venison into small nice-
shaped pieces, put them in a deep dish, strew some chopped
herbs over them, and cover with oil and vinegar. Wash
some heads of endive, drain them well, shred them, and
put them in a salad-bowl; add the Venison and dressing,
and toss them lightly. Strew some chopped chives over
the top, and serve. If preferred, the Venison may be well
drained from the marinade, and put in a salad-bowl with
some shred lettuces and a mayonnaise poured over.
Venison Soup. — (1) Remove all the bones from about 41b.
of fresh Venison ; put it in a stewpan with |lb. of ham,
cut into small pieces, and a finely-chopped shallot, pour
in sufficient water to cover the meat, stand the stewpan
by the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer
gently for an hour. Skim the liquor, pour in lqt. of
boiling water, and add a head of celery cut into small
pieces and one and a half blades of mace. Let the liquor
simmer gently for two hours-and-three-quarters longer, then
pour in A- pint of port wine. Roll loz. of butter in 1
table-spoonful of flour, put it in with the Venison, and
stir over the fire till thick. Turn the soup with the
Venison into a soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of
sippets of toast.
(2) Split the head of the Venison, and wash it thoroughly
in plenty of cold water ; put it, with the shank-bones,
neck, and any trimmings of Venison available, into a stock-
pot with a carrot, turnip, four onions, one being stuck
with four cloves, a little thyme, two blades of mace,
eight or ten peppercorns, and a lump of salt. Fill the
pot with cold water, stand it over the fire till boiling,
then move it a little to the side and keep it boiling
slowly for ten hours. Strain the soup through a fine hair
sieve and leave it till cold. Skim all the fat oft' the soup,
and put it in a saucepan with lAlb. of finely-chopped raw
lean Venison and three eggs that have been beaten with
their shells; stir the soup over the fire till boiling, then
move it to the side and let it simmer for two hours,
pouring in occasionally a very little cold water. At the
end of that time strain the sou]) through a silk sieve
into a clean pan, and season with salt, pepper, cayenne
pepper, and 1 table-spoonful of ketchup. Beat the yolks of
three eggs with 1 break-fastcupful of milk, and season them
with salt and pepper. Turn the custard into a buttered
mould, put it into a saucepan with boiling water to three-
parts its height, and steam the custard till firm. When
firm, turn the custard out of the mould, cut it into thick
slices, then cut them into different shapes with a fancy
cutter. Put the pieces of custard into the soup, turn it
into a tureen, and serve while very hot.
(3) Remove the bones from 31b. or 4lb. of freshly-killed
Venison, and cut the meat into small pieces ; put them
into a large stewpan with fib. of sliced liam, two minced
onions, and cold water to cover. Season to taste with
salt and pepper, put the lid on the stewpan, and keep the
contents simmering at the edge of the fire. In an hour's
time skim the soup well, pour in lqt. of boiling water,
and add a couple of blades of mace and a head of celery
that has been washed and cut into convenient lengths.
Boil the soup gently for two hours longer. Knead 3oz.
of butter well with 3 table-spoonfuls of flour, and divide
it into small pieces. When cooked, put the prepared
butter into the soup, mix in A pint of red wine, and boil
gently for fifteen minutes longer. Turn the soup into a
soup-tureen, and serve.
(4) Put 61b. or 71b. of breast of Venison, cut into small
pieces, into a stewpan, and let it stew for an hour in fib.
of butter. Keep the lid on close, but stir the meat about
occasionally to prevent it from burning. Put over the fire
in another saucepan 1A pints of the blood mixed with 4qts.
of cold water, stir it till it boils, then add to it one onion,
peeled and chopped very small, a carrot scraped and
washed, but not cut up, the stewed Venison, and a
seasoning of salt and black pepper. Let it simmer for two
hours if the Venison be young, but if old it will require
two-hours-and-a-half. Fifteen minutes before removing it
from the fire, take out the carrot and all the bones of the
Venison, but leave in some of the meat ; add a small
piece of butter with plenty of flour rubbed into it, and
A pint of port wine, and let it boil for ten minutes,
stirring constantly.
Venison Steak a la Cabaretier. — Cut off a thick steak,
beat it with a cutlet -bat to make it tender, put it into a
marinade of vinegar or lemon-juice, and let it remain for
twenty minutes or so. Take it out, wipe it perfectly dry,
wrap it first in vine-leaves and then in buttered paper,
put it on a grill over a clear charcoal fire, and broil until
done. Serve with butter sauce, seasoned with cayenne
pepper and salt, poured over.
Venison Steaks a la Chasseur. —Procure from a freshly-
killed deer a fine leg of about 5lb. weight, remove the
bone, cut off six slices, pare and flatten them, put, them on
a plate, and season with 1 pinch each of salt and pepper,
A pinch of nutmeg, and 1 table -spoonful of oil, rolling them
Fig. 1007. Venison Steaks a la Chasseur.
in well. Put them to broil for five minutes on each side
over a clear fire. Dress on a hot dish, spread over 1 gill of
maitre-d’hotel butter, decorate the dish with a little water-
cress (see Fig. 1007), and serve.
Venison Steaks a l’Espagnole. — The same as for Broiled
Venison Steak, serving with the following sauce : Put
into a saucepan on a hot range 1 wineglassful of port wine,
and let it come to the boil ; add \ pint of currant jelly,
thoroughly stir until the jelly is well dissolved, pour in
1 gill of Spanish sauce, and let it again come to the boil.
Pour the sauce on a hot dish, dress the steaks over it, one
overlapping another, and send to table hot.
Venison Steak a la Hongroise. — Broil the steak. Mean-
while cut into julienne -shaped pieces Aoz. of citron, also the
zest of half a small lemon cut in the same way ; place
them in a saucepan with 1 wineglassful of port wine,
and cook for two or three minutes at most. Add 1 gill
of currant- jelly, stir well together until the jelly is
thoroughly dissolved, and sprinkle over A saltspoonful
of cayenne. Allow it to come to the boil. Pour the
sauce ' on the hot dish, arrange the steaks over it one
overlapping another, and serve very hot.
It is not very often that the offal of the deer finds its
way into cookery, although some parts of it are by no
means to be despised, as the following receipts will show :
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. 743
Venison— continued.
Deer-Head-and-Feet Soup.— Skin and bone the head of
a young deer, put it in a saucepan with sufficient cold
water to cover, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. Take
it out, dry it on a cloth, and scrape the meat. Cut the
head into about four pieces, put them in a saucepan with
a raw ham-bone and the skinned and blanched feet, about
21b. of raw veal, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a moderate
quantity of vegetables, such as onions, carrots, &c. Pour
in 3qts. of rich broth and \ pint of white wine. Leave
the soup over the fire until it boils, then move it to the
side, skim well, and keep it simmering. When the meat
is tender, cut it into small squares, and put them into a
stewpan with a small quantity of Madeira wine. Strain the
broth, pour it back into the saucepan, and keep it hot.
Chop one onion and one carrot, and a small piece of celery ;
put them in a stewpan with a lump of butter and about
2 table-spoonfuls of chopped ham, and fry them. Dredge
the vegetables over with a little less than 1 table -spoonful
of arrowroot, and pour the soup in gradually. Continue
stirring it over the fire until it boils again, then move it
to the side ; put in a small bunch of thyme, marigold, and
laurel, and simmer for half-an-hour. Skim and strain the
soup, pour it over the meat and Maderia wine, add a few
chopped mushrooms, and boil for ten minutes. Before
turning it into the soup-tureen, skim the soup again, and
season to taste with salt and cayenne. Serve very hot.
Fried Deer’s Liver. — Wash the liver in plenty of cold water,
cut it into rather thick slices, and trim them to the shape
of veal cutlets ; dredge them over with Hour, and season
with salt and pepper. Put a lump of butter in a frying-
pan, melt it, then lay in the slices of liver and fry them
till nicely browned, turning them when done on one side
to brown the other. Fry in another pan at the same
time some thin slices of ham. When cooked, arrange the
slices of liver, with a slice of ham between each, on a hot
dish. Pour a little water in the frying-pan in which the
liver was fried, stir it over the fire, then mix it with
some Venison sauce ; pour all over the liver, and serve.
Roasted Deer's Heart. — Soak the heart in cold water for
several hours, wash away the blood, and dry with a cloth.
Stuff it with veal stuffing, sew it up, rub over some butter,
and cover with flour-and-water paste. Wrap it in paper
tied on with strings, put it on a spit, and set it before a
clear fire to roast for two hours, basting with fat all the
time it is roasting. Remove the paper and paste about
fifteen minutes before it is done, and dredge with Hour.
Melt some butter on a dish, and with a spoon baste the
heart well with it. When browned and thoroughly cooked,
place it on a hot dish, pour over some rich sauce, and
serve red-currant jelly and French beans separately.
VENTILATION. — Of all departments in a well-
regulated household that cry aloud for Ventilation, the
kitchen, pantry, and larder stand pre-eminent. Unfortu-
nately many houses constructed on modern principles
provide no exit for the smell-laden air of the kitchen
except through the halls, passages, and staircases of the
rest of the house; whereas, if due attention were paid to
this important feature, the house would at no time teem
with the odours of cooking, which are not always appetising,
but all that are generated would pass into the outer air
direct through ventilators provided for this purpose.
A well- ventilated kitchen is a pleasure to the cook, and
conducive to the health of all concerned in or about it.
Open windows are the best form of ventilators, but it is
difficult to overcome prejudice, and many cooks believe
that by cooling or ventilating the kitchen the heat neces-
sary for cooking is carried off. This is a very common
error, and one that will continue until we arrive at a
period of culinary enlightenment that is certainly at
present only looming in the distance. Ventilators should
only be inserted in the walls either communicating with
the outside of the house or the chimney : the ascending
draught of the chimney draws away the heated foul air
that accumulates at the top of the kitchen. When
windows are opened, they should be pulled down from the
Ventilation — continued.
top ; but as some kitchen windows open into pantries
or passages, some form of independent Ventilation should
be adopted. See Air.
VENT-PEGS.— Sharp, conical-shaped pieces of wood
that are used for stopping up the vent-hole of the
barrel.
VENUS PUDDING.— See Puddings.
VERJUICE '(FV. Verjus).— The name given to the
sour juice of crab-apples, unripe grapes, &c., much used in
French cookery, in lieu of lemon-juice, sorrel, or vinegar.
It may be obtained by simply pressing out the juice, and
straining it.
VERMICELLI (FV. Vermicelle; Ger. Fadennudeln).
— The literal meaning of this term is little worms, which
Vermicelli resembles in a marked degree. It is made
of Italian paste pressed through fine apertures and dried.
It is used in this country principally for puddings and
soups.
Vermicelli a la Reine. — Blanch the Vermicelli in boiling
water, then drain it ; put it into a saucepan with rich
broth, season to taste, and let it boil gently till cooked.
Beat the yolks of eight eggs well, and mix a little cream
with them ; pour them into the soup, and stir them by
the side of the fire for a few minutes, but do not let them
boil. Turn the Vermicelli into a tureen, and serve with
a plate of sippets of toast.
Vermicelli Cake. — Boil 2oz. of Vermicelli for twelve minutes ;
when well done, drain it, and add it to a short paste
made of Mb. of flour, Goz. of butter, the whites of two
eggs, and h saltspoonful of salt. Pound the paste and
Vermicelli well together in a mortar, and have ready a
baking-pan covered with a sheet of buttered paper ; lay
the paste on top, spreading it out about Gin. square.
Put it in the oven for twenty minutes. Remove it, detach
it from the paper, lay it on a dish with a folded napkin,
and serve hot.
Vermicelli Croquettes. — Boil Goz. of Vermicelli in 1 h pints
of milk till tender and it begins to thicken, keeping it
constantly stirred all the time. Rub 111), of loaf sugar
over the rind of a Seville orange, and when the Vermicelli
is cooked add that to it, also 2oz. of fresh butter; keep
the mixture well stirred over the fire for a few minutes,
then move it to the side and mix in the well-beaten yolks
of eight eggs. The mixture should not boil after the eggs
are added, but should be stirred by the side of the fire
till thick, then turned out on to a dish and left till cold.
Divide the cold mixture into small pieces, and mould
them into any shape fancied ; dip each piece separately
into well-beaten eggs, then into finely -grated breadcrumb,
smooth them over with the blade of a knife, then egg-arid -
breadcrumb them again. Put the croquettes into a frying-
basket and plunge them into a deep pan of boiling lard.
When nicely browned all over, drain the croquettes on a
cloth till all the fat has run off, then arrange them
pyramidically on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper, sift caster sugar over, and serve them.
Vermicelli Fatties (Turkish).— Roll out about 1 Fib. of
puff paste as thin as possible, and cut six rounds out of it.
Fig. 1008. Vermicelli Patties.
Butter a baking-tin, lay three pieces of the paste on it,
one over the other, then put a layer of Vermicelli on them.
Warm 5oz. of butter, pour it over the Vermicelli, then
cover with the remaining pieces of paste ; prick here and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
744
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vermicelli — continued.
Vermicelli — continued.
there with a skewer, put them in the oven, and hake until
nicely browned. Put lib. of loaf sugar into a saucepan
with lqt. of water, and boil it until reduced to a thick
syrup. When the patties are cooked, pour the syrup over,
and place in a slow oven for a few minutes. Cut them into
quarters, arrange them on a dish (see Fig. 1008), and serve.
Vermicelli Pudding. — (1) Trim off the skin and discoloured
parts from 2oz. of beef-suet, and chop it fine ; then put
it in a saucepan with 1 breakfast cupful of milk and Jib.
of Vermicelli, and stir them over the fire until boiling.
Boil the mixture for live minutes, then turn it into a
basin and leave till cool. When ready, stir in with the
Vermicelli 4 heaped table-spoonfuls of sugar, 1 b table-
spoonfuls of orange marmalade, 'five well-beaten eggs, and
a few drops of ratafia. Brush the interior of a mould
with a paste-brush dipped in warmed butter, then pour
in the mixture; tie a sheet of buttered paper over the
top, stand it in a saucepan with boiling water to three-
parts its height, and steam it for two hours. Meanwhile
prepare the following sauce : Slightly warm 2oz. of butter,
beat it until creamy with 3 table-spoonfuls of caster
sugar, then stir in gradually 1 scant breakfast-cupful of
boiling water. Turn the mixture into a saucepan, and
stir it over a slow fire till on the point of boiling, then
move it off at once. Mix in the sauce, 2 wineglassfuls
of sherry and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. When
cooked, turn the pudding out of the mould, pour the
sauce round it, and serve.
(2) Put 2oz. of Vermicelli in a saucepan with lqt. of
milk and boil until tender. Beat six eggs well with 4oz.
of caster sugar and about 3 wineglassfuls of rose-water.
Put Jib. of butter in with the Vermicelli, move the sauce-
pan off the fire, and stir in the beaten eggs. Butter a
pie dish, line it with puff paste, and pour the Vermicelli
into it. Put it in a brisk oven and bake. Serve the
pudding hot.
(3) Put 3oz. of Vermicelli into a saucepan with a small
lump of butter and 1 pint of milk. Stir it over the fire
until thick and it does not stick to the sides of the
saucepan, then take it off, and leave until cool. Blanch
and pound 1 heaped table -spoonful of sweet almonds with
four bitter ones, then mix them with the Vermicelli and
add the beaten yolks of four eggs, 2 table -spoonfuls of
caster sugar, the grated peel of half a lemon, and a small
quantity of spice. Whisk the whites of the four eggs
to a stiff froth, and stir them in gently at the last.
Butter the interior of a dome -shaped mould, fill it with
the mixture, tie a cloth over, and boil for an hour. The
water must not cease boiling until the pudding is done.
When cooked, turn the pudding on to a hot dish, and serve
it with a sauceboatful of wine sauce. The spice may be
omitted if not approved of.
(4) Pour 1 pint of milk into a saucepan with loz. of
butter, bring it to the boil, add 4oz. of Vermicelli crushed
in the hand, and stir it over the fire until quite thick,
which should take about five minutes. Remove the pan
from the fire, stir in 2oz. of sugar, the grated rind of
half a lemon, a seasoning of grated nutmeg, loz. of blanched
and chopped almonds, and the yolks of three eggs, stirring
vigorously and continually. Now add the whites of the
eggs beaten to a froth, stir them in gently, turn the pre-
paration into a well-buttered mould dusted with sugar,
put a piece of buttered paper over the top, and steam
over a saucepan of boiling water for about an hour. Turn
it out on to a dish, and pour fruit sauce over or round ; or
serve it in a sauceboat.
(5) Put 5oz. of Vermicelli into a lined saucepan with
H pints of milk, a piece of stick cinnamon, and a few
lumps of loaf sugar. When all the moisture is absorbed,
remove the cinnamon, and turn the Vermicelli into a
bowl. When cool, work in with it the beaten yolks of
four eggs and the whites of two that have been whisked
to a froth. Thickly butter the interior of a plain mould,
strew in some finely-grated breadcrumb, shake out the
superfluous, and pour in the Vermicelli. Bake the pudding
for half an-hour in a moderate oven. Turn it out on to
a hot dish, and serve with a jam or wine sauce, either
poured over or in a sauceboat.
(fi) Put Jib. of Vermicelli into lqt. of milk with a
small piece of stick cinnamon, and boil it. Beat up
together the yolks of four eggs, Jib. of warmed butter,
and 1 pint of cream. When the Vermicelli has boiled
quite soft, pick out the cinnamon, and pour the Vermi-
celli into the beaten eggs, &c. ; mix in with it some beef-
marrow, a little flour, and sufficient white powdered sugar
to sweeten ; beat all well together for half an-hour. Dip
a cloth into boiling water, flour it well, tie the pudding
in it, and boil.
(7) Put Jib. of Vermicelli into 1 pint of milk with a piece
of stick cinnamon, and let it boil till the Vermicelli is quite
tender. Mix with it the yolks of four well-beaten eggs,
Jib. of powdered white sugar, Jib. of butter, and b pint
of cream. Put it into a pudding-dish, and bake.
(8) Boil lqt. of milk in a saucepan, add Jib. of Vermi-
celli, and with a wliisk stir briskly and continually for
fifteen minutes. Take from the fire, let it cool, and add
4oz. of powdered sugar, mixing well for one minute.
Break in four eggs, flavour with 1 teaspoonful of vanilla
essence, and mix well for two minutes longer. Butter
and sugar well six small pudding-moulds, and with a
ladle fill up the moulds with the Vermicelli ; place them
in a tin pan, pouring in warm but not boiling water to
half the height of the moulds, then put them in the oven
and steam for thirty five minutes. Remove, take the
moulds from the pan with a towel, and with a thin knife
detach them ; turn them on to a hot dish, and serve with
the following sauce: Put 1 pint of milk to boil in a
saucepan on the stove. Break into a vessel two eggs,
add loz. of flour, boz. of cornflour, and 3oz. of powdered
sugar, beating the whole well together with a spatula for
three minutes. If the milk be boiling, add it gradually
to the preparation, stirring continually for two minutes ;
return the whole to the saucepan, place it on the stove,
and stir briskly until it comes to the boil ; then remove,
and add immediately 1 teaspoonful of vanilla flavouring.
Strain the sauce through a sieve into a sauce-bowl, and
serve.
(9) German. — Put 1 pint of milk and 2oz. of butter
into an enamelled stewpan, and boil it; then strew in 3oz.
of Vermicelli, and stir it until thick and cooked, using a
wooden spoon. Leave the Vermicelli until somewhat
cooled, then mix in 2 heaped table-spoonfuls of caster
sugar, 1 table-spoonful of blanched and pounded sweet
almonds, 1 scant teaspoonful of pounded bitter almonds,
and a small quantity of grated lemon peel. Separate the
yolks and whites of six eggs; beat the yolks first and
stir them in the above mixture, then whisk the whites to
a stiff snow and add them. Butter a mould, fill it with
the mixture, tie a stout pudding -cloth over the top, put
it into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil for an hour.
When cooked, serve the pudding with a fruit sauce.
Vermicelli Souffle. — Put loz. of Vermicelli into a saucepan
of boiling salted water, and boil for twenty minutes ; then
drain oft' all the water, put in J pint of milk and a few
pieces of tliinly-shred lemon-peel, sweeten to taste, and
stew at the side of the fire until it has absorbed all the
milk. Let the Vermicelli get cold, then mix with it the
beaten yolks of four eggs. Whisk the whites of six eggs
to a stiff froth, stir them in lightly and quickly with the
above mixture, and turn the whole into a plain mould.
Bake the souffle in a brisk oven for about twenty minutes,
or until well risen and lightly browned on the top; then
take it out, pin a napkin round the mould, and serve at
once.
Vermicelli Soup. — (1) Put from 31b. to 41b. of knuckle of
veal, 1 Jib. of scrag of mutton, and Jib. of ham, all cut
into small pieces, in a saucepan with Jib. of butter and
an onion stuck with three cloves, and fry them over the
fire for ten minutes. Put in with the meat a bunch of
sweet herbs, one anchovy, two carrots, three blades of
mace, three carrots, and three heads of celery. Put the lid on
the saucepan, and set it over- the fire till all the gravy
has been extracted from the meat. Drain the gravy into
a basin, pour 4qts. of water over the meat, and boil
slowly till reduced to 3 pints. Strain the soup into
another saucepan, pour in the gravy from the meat, add
For details resecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their s. ecial heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
745
Vermicelli — continued.
Jib. of Vermicelli, <1 liea- 1 of celery cut into small pieces,
and a small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt. Boil
the soup for fifteen minutes. Put a penny roll in a soup-
tureen, pour a little of the soup on it, let it soak for a
few minutes, then pour in the remainder of the soup, and
serve.
(2) Prepare 3qts. of broth with the trimmings, bones,
and jowls of fish, some vegetables, and a small quantity
of white wine. Chop an onion and the white part of two
leeks, put them in a saucepan with a small quantity of
olive oil, and fry till nicely browned. Skin three tomatoes,
cut them into small pieces, removing at the same time all
the pips; put them in with the fried onion, &c., and add
a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, and four cloves. Strain the
broth through a silk sieve, pour it over the above articles,
and boil up again. Put lib. of Vermicelli in the soup,
and let it simmer by the side of the fire. When cooked,
turn the soup into a tureen, and serve.
(3) Clean the hearts and livers of several chickens, cut
them into small pieces, put them in a saucepan with a
lump of butter, and toss them over the fire till half
cooked ; drain the butter off the livers and hearts, dust
them with salt, and pour in 4 pints of clear chicken broth.
Stand it over the fire till boiling, then put in 6oz. of
Vermicelli, and boil till tender. When cooked, pour the
soup into a soup-tureen, dust powdered cinnamon and pepper
over it, and serve with a plate of sippets of toast.
(4) Put Jib. of fine Vermicelli in a saucepan with lqt.
of clear stock that has been perfectly freed from fat, anil
boil it. Prepare 2qts. of nicely -flavoured soup, and when
ready pour it into a soup-tureen. Drain the Vermicelli,
put it in with the soup, and serve at once with a plate
of grated Parmesan cheese.
(5) Put over the fire some good, strong, strained, well-
seasoned broth. When it boils put in the Vermicelli, and
let it simmer for half-an-hour; do not let the Vermicelli
burst, and do not thicken the soup too much with it.
Half a pound is sufficient for soup for eight or ten
people.
(6) Indian Style. — Clean the livers and hearts of
three fowls and the gizzard of one, put them in a sauce-
pan with a little water, and boil gently until half cooked ;
next drain, and cut them into small pieces. Put them in
a saucepan with 3qts. of clear stock, 3oz. of Vermicelli,
salt and pepper to taste, and a moderate quantity of
sweet herbs, and keep all simmering gently until very
tender. Turn the soup into a. soup tureen, and serve.
Vermicelli Soup with Tomato Puree. — Prepare 3qts. of
fish stock as for thick soup; when boiling, move it to the
side of the fire and let it simmer for half-an-hour. Make
H pints of fresh tomato puree. Skim the fat off the soup,
put in a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs and the tomato
puree, then let it simmer for twenty minutes longer.
Boil ill), of Vermicelli gently in salted water till tender.
Strain the soup, put in the Vermicelli, skim off all the
fat, and boil up again. Turn the soup into a tureen, and
serve.
Vermicelli Timbale. — Pour 2qts. of milk in a saucepan on
the fire, bring it to the boil, and add lOoz. of slight ly-
broken Vermicelli, 6oz. of lemon sugar, Jib. of butter,
and 1 pinch of salt. As soon as the Vermicelli is suffi-
Vermicelli — continued.
ciently swollen, add Jib. of powdered macaroons, the yolks
of six eggs, and the whites of two ; stir gently, then add
the well whipped whites of two eggs and 4 table-spoonfuls
of cream also well whipped. Have ready a timbale-mould
lined with puff paste, fill up with the mixture, and bake
in a quick oven for about an-hour-and a-half. When done,
turn it out (see Pig. 1009) and serve immediately.
VERMOUTH. — This pleasing bitter is manufactured
with wormwood, white wine, and orange wine, and sweetened
with sugar.
VERSAILLES CREAM.— See Cream.
VIANDS. — This term is derived from the Latin
vivenda — provisions, and was probably introduced into our
domestic vocabulary by the French. The term Victuals
has a similar derivation and signification.
VICHY WATER. — See Aerated Waters.
VICOU. — A beverage made by the Indians of French
Guiana from the plantain.
VICTORIA BISCUITS. — See Biscuits.
VICTORIA CAKE. — See Cakes.
VICTORIA PUDDING.— See Puddings.
VICTORIA SAUCE.— See Sauces.
VICTORIA SOUP.— See Soups.
VICTUALS.— See Viands.
VIDOGNA.— A wine manufactured in Teneriffe,
resembling Madeira.
VIENNA BEER. — A dark amber-coloured beverage
with a white frothy head, which has found much favour in
this country since its introduction about the year 1867.
VIENNA BREAD AND ROLLS.-See Bread
and Vienna Flour.
VIENNA FLOUR. — Italy is famous for the excel-
lence of the wheat grown on its vast mountain slopes,
and undulating land. Something may be due to the
richness of the soil, and the warm and equable climate.
The flour of this Italian wheat is exceedingly white, and
suitable for making the very best kinds of pastry, bread,
&c. (see Vienna Rolls, under Bread). The superiority
of Italian-made macaroni, vermicelli, &c., is due to the
fine quality of the flour.
VIENNA CAKES.— See Cakes.
VIENNA DUMPLINGS.— See Dumplings.
VIENNA PUDDINGS.— See Puddings.
VIENNA ROLLS.— See Bread.
VILLEROY SAUCE.— See Sauces.
VINAIGRETTE SAUCE.— See Sauces.
VINASSE. — A brown watery liquor which is the
residue of the distillation of beetroot wine. It contains a
large proportion of potash.
VINE - LEAVES. — For garnishing dessert-dishes
these leaves are very effective, owing to their beautiful
green colour and graceful shape (see Fig. 1010). They
possess some flavour, which has led cooks to use them for
certain culinary purposes. They are occasionally selected
to wrap round small birds, or to contain a forcemeat.
In this last condition they are served as Stuffed Vine-
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
746
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Vine-leaves — continued.
leaves, the following being some very good receipts for
preparing them :
Fig 1010. Vine-leaves.
Stuffed Vine-leaves. — (1) Put a few dozen young Vine-
leaves in a large howl, pour boiling water over them ,
then turn them on to a sieve, and leave till well drained.
I ’eel and finely chop seven or eight large onions; put Jib.
of butter into a stewpan, place it over the lire till hot,
then add the onions, and toss them about until beginning
to brown. Wash in plenty of water about 21b. of the
best rice, and diy it on a cloth ; put the rice in with the
onions, and stir it over the fire till on the point of
browning, then pour in i pint of water, and continue
stirring until dry. Season the mixture with powdered
mint and cinnamon, and salt and pepper; stir it well,
then move it from the fire. Spread the Vine leaves out,
put a small quantity of the mixture on each, then roll
them round lengthwise, pressing gently to prevent them
opening. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with some
small bones, and lay the Vine-leaves on them, putting in now
and then one or two sour plums ; by doing this the flavour
will be improved by the acidity from the plums. Press
a plate over the Vine-leaves, moisten to height with
water, and boil gently. When all the moisture has
evaporated, take out one of the stuffed leaves and see if
the rice is tender ; if not, add more hot water. Arrange
the leaves tastefully on a fancy dish-paper or a folded
napkin on a hot dish, and serve them. Lemon juice can
be used in place of the plums when they are not in
season, but the latter are preferable.
(2) Plunge the Vine-leaves into a bowl of boiling water,
turn them on to a sieve, and leave to drain. Finely
chop some raw mutton, judging the quantity by that of
the leaves ; mix with it 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped
onions and a small teacupful of well-washed rice ; season
the mixture with salt and pepper, and stir in sufficient
water to make a stiffish paste. Spread the Vine-leaves
out on the table, and put on each a small quantity of
the stuffing. Roll them round lengthwise, and press
lightly to prevent them coming open ; lay them in a
saucepan, put the lid on, and place it over the fire until
all _ the moisture of the Vine leaves has evaporated.
Moisten then to height with broth, and keep it boiling
gently at the side of the lire until reduced to a thick con
sistency. When sufficiently reduced, try one of the Vine-
leaves to see if the rice and meat are tender ; if not, some
more broth must be poured over them, and finished cook-
ing. Drain the leaves, arrange them tastefully on a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, and
serve.
(3) Wash and dry the selected quantity of young Vine
leaves ; prepare a stuffing for them of finely minced veal,
half the quantity of minced bacon, and a third of the
Vine-leaves — continued.
quantity of bread panada. Season the stuffing highly,
and roll a small portion of it in each leaf. Lay them in a
stewpan, cover with court bouillon, and stew gently.
When cooked, drain the stuffed leaves, arrange them on
a hot dish, pour 1 pint of sour cream over them, and
serve.
VINEGAR {Fr. Vinaigre; Ger. Essig; Ital. Aceto ;
Sp. Vinagre). — The original meaning of this term is
sour or acid wine, the presumption being that the first
Vinegar known was the result of wine which turned sour.
Excellent Vinegars are now prepared from alcoholic
liquors, by a variety of processes, which has provided for
the Vinegar of commerce names which indicate the details
of its manufacture.
Vinegar may be produced in two ways — first, by the
addition of oxygen to alcohol contained in wine, cider,
beer, or any form of fermented sugar and water ; secondly,
by the distillation of wood, which produces a kind of
acetic acid, called pyroligneous acid, which is sometimes
used as a wash to restore meat that is tainted. Vine-
gar used for culinary purposes, such as flavouring or
preserving vegetable and animal substances, as pickles,
should be made by the first principle only. A famous
authority on the food productions of this country has
written concerning this very useful commodity that there
are good Vinegars in the market; there are also those
which are indifferent, bad, and very bad. The latter are
the more common. The best and most wholesome are
those made from cider and wine. These retain the sug-
gestions of the apples and grapes from which they origi-
nally came. If carefully kept they remain palatable for
an indefinite period; if carelessly, they, like every good
food substance, are apt to become mouldy and unwhole-
some. From a gastronomic standpoint, the best Vinegar
is that which is made from red wine ; next to it are those
made from white wine, cider, and perry. The first is
invaluable in salad dressing, on account of its beautiful
colour ; the second is most useful in those preparations
where no colour at all is desired ; the third is available for
all general uses ; and the last comes to the front whenever
the delicious jargonelle flavour is conducive to culinary
success. Below the first class are the Vinegars made
from beer, ale, and whisky. These are coarse, heavy, and
often offensive. They never, except in the case of whisky,
are made purposely, but represent the desire of some
brewer or distiller to utilise goods which have been
ruined by careless treatment and which would otherwise
prove a total loss. The ale that sours in the barrels and
hogsheads, the beer that begins to putrefy in the vaults,
and the wretched whisky which is so full of fusil oils that
no dealer, not even the lowest, will purchase it at any
price, are the raw materials from which this class of
Vinegars are made. They cannot be said to be injurious,
but they are simply miserable apologies for the real
article. In this country a malt Vinegar is made from
mashed malt without distillation, but by simply allowing
the sugar fermentation to go to an acetic fermentation.
It may also be stated that there is nothing equal for
domestic use to a good cider Vinegar. Below the grade of
whisky Vinegar, are the Vinegars made in the laboratory
by chemical processes, and especially by the destructive
distillation of wood. Unless skilfully refined and purified,
they contain creosote, wood tar, and other products
of the same class, all of which are injurious, many of
them are poisonous, and some of which are fatal to the
user. They have one advantage — and only one — they are
cheap. They bear the same relation to genuine Vinegar
that mirbane oil does to bitter almonds, glucose to pure
sugar, sweetened diluted oil of vitriol to lemonade, and
margarine to fresh creamy butter.
Without entering further into the details of the various
processes of Vinegar making, it will suffice for us to know
that Vinegars, however produced, are classified by the
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensds, Sauces, <ic., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
747
V inegar — continued.
manufacturer as numbers 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, and 24,
according to the percentag-e of alcohol they contain. This
should vary from 3 to 6 per cent.
Vinegar is adulterated by excessive
dilution with water, burnt sugar
colouring, the addition of impure
acetic acid, and, worst of all, by the
addition of sulphuric acid. The pro-
portion of acid can be discovered
by Stokes’s Acidity Pellets (see Pig.
1011), their use being described under
Milk ; the only precaution necessary
to render this test perfect is to add
an equal portion of milk to the
quantity of Vinegar to be tested, and
take the re suit as half that given in
the usual way.
Vinegar can be made by the use
of what is called the Vinegar-plant,
this being a mass of Vinegar ferment
or mother of Vinegar, usually sold
worked up in sour dough. Samples
of this that have been examined
under the microscope contain an im-
mense number of minute creatures
known as Vinegar-eels (see Fig. 1012).
Whatever their influence may be when present, it is
quite certain that Vinegar can be produced equally well
in their absence. Flavoured Vinegars, such as garlic,
raspberry, tarragon, &c., will be found described under
their special headings. The following receipts for preparing
Vinegar at home may be found useful :
Fig. 1011. Stokes’s
Patent Acidity Pellets
(Dairy Supply Co. ).
(1) Put lib. of coarse brown sugar in a saucepan, pour
1 gall, of water over it, and boil for fifteen minutes,
skimming it well at the same time. Turn the liquor out
of the saucepan, and leave it till nearly cold. Toast a
thick slice of bread, spread some yeast on it, and put it
in the sugar water. On the following day turn the liquor
into a cask, cover the bung-hole with a cloth or piece of
paper, hut do not stop it up, and keep the cask in a
warm place. If not sufficiently acid at the end of a
year, let the Vinegar stand longer. When ready, bottle
off the Vinegar.
Fig. 1012. Vinegar-eels.
(2) Put ^lb. of brown sugar and 3 pints of water in a
vessel, stir it until the sugar has dissolved, then put in
a vinegar-plant, and stand the vessel in a rather dark
place. If in the winter time, the Vinegar should he kept
in a warm place ; but if in the summer-time, it is best
made in a cask and exposed to the sun. In about seven
weeks’ time the Vinegar should be drawn off and bottled ;
Vinegar — continued.
if left longer, the plant will feed on the Vinegar and
weaken it.
(3) Put 7 lb. of the coarsest brown sugar in a lined pan
with 4 gall, of water, and boil it. Skim the sugar, take
it off the tire, pour 1 gall, of cold water in with it, then
turn it into a 5 gall, keg, and mix with it some small
pieces of toast that have been spread with a teacupful of
brewer’s yeast. Stir the mixture every day for a week,
and at the end of that time tack a piece of gauze over
the bung-hole, and put it in a place where the sun may
shine on it. In six months’ time the Vinegar may he
drawn off for use. It is best to make the Vinegar in the
spring of the year, so that it may have as much heat
from the sun as possible.
(4) Put Oqts. of water in a large vessel with 2lb. of raw
sugar, and boil it for twenty minutes or half-an-hour,
skimming oft' any scum that may rise to the top. At the
end of that time pour the Vinegar into an earthenware
vessel, and leave it until lukewarm. Thickly spread a
slice of bread on both sides with yeast, put it into the
warm Vinegar, and let it ferment for two days. Rinse a
small barrel out with plain Vinegar, then pour in the
sugar Vinegar. Paste a stout piece of brown paper over
the bung-liole, and prick two or three small holes in it
with a fork. Keep the barrel in a dry warm place. In
two months’ time the Vinegar may he bottled for use.
Camp Vinegar. — Add to 1 pint of the best Vinegar 4 table-
spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 2 table-spoonfuls of soy, six
anchovies chopped line, a small clove of garlic also chopped
line, and 1 drachm of cayenne pepper. Put all this
into a bottle, and let it stand, well corked, for a month,
shaking the bottle frequently. Strain it through a cloth,
put it into small bottles, and cork tightly.
McCarty’s Vinegar. —Put 2 table- spoonfuls of 'Worcester-
shire sauce and £ table-spoonful of tobasco pepper-sauce
into a pint bottle, and fill it up with tarragon vinegar.
Cork the bottle, and shake it well. This is a splendid
relish when used in salads and sauces, or on broiled fish.
The Vinegar takes its name from the proprietor of an hotel
in New York, who is said to be the originator of the
receipt.
The following are a few samples of the culinary uses to
which Vinegar may be applied, besides those of flavouring
and pickling :
Vinegar Cake. — Warm Goz. of butter, and beat it together
with ill), of caster sugar till creamy ; then add four eggs,
beating each one for five minutes before another is added,
and mix in | pint of milk and 2 table spoonfuls of Vinegar.
Mix I teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda and 4lb. of well-
waslied currants with 111), of flour, stir in the above
mixture, and when quite smooth turn it into a buttered
cake-tin. Bake the cake for an hour-ami -a half in a
moderate oven ; when cooked, turn it out of the tin.
Vinegar Candy. — (1) Stir 111), of white sugar into I pint of
white Vinegar ; when the sugar is quite dissolved, set it
over the fire and let it boil gently till thick enough to pull,
then turn it on to buttered dishes ; the dishes should be
flat and quite cold. As soon as the candy is sufficiently
cooled to touch, pull it with the tips of your fingers till
quite white and porous.
(2) Mix with 41b. of molasses 4 table-spoonfuls of water
and 1 teacupful of good cider Vinegar. Place it over a
moderate fire and boil it, keeping the pan covered till
when a little of it tried in cold water hardens. Pour it
then into buttered tins, pull it till light, and cut it into
sticks, lozenges, or balls of convenient size.
Vinegar Pie. — Boil 1 pint of water, \ pint of Vinegar, and
loz. of butter together. Mix lib. of brown sugar and 1
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon with 4oz. of flour, then
dredge it into the boiling liquid, stirring at the same
time. Take the mixture off the fire when partly thickened
and before it boils. Roll some pie-crust out very thin,
line a buttered baking-tin with it, pour in the above
mixture, cover with a flat of the same paste, pinching and
pressing the edges together, and bake. When cooked, turn
the pie carefully out of the tin on to a dish, and serve.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, L'tensils, Sauces, dc., referred to, see under their special heads
748
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V inegar — co n tinued.
Vinegar Syrup. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff
froth, and put it in a saucepan with 31b. of caster sugar
and f pint of the best malt Vinegar. St ir the mixture
once, then place it over a charcoal lire, and boil for half
a minute. Skim the syrup, remove it from the lire, and
put in a small quantity of marjoram that has been tied
up in a piece of muslin ; cover with the lid, and leave
the contents until cold. Pass the syrup through a clean
cloth or a silk sieve, pour it into a bottle, cork it tightly,
and put it by for use. In hot weather the above syrup
can be taken mixed with cold water, and it will be
found an agreeable beverage.
Vinegar Whey. — Put 4 pint each of milk and water in a
saucepan with 1 table -spoonful of caster sugar, and boil.
Pour sufficient Vinegar in the milk to form a curd, boil
it up again, then strain it through a jelly-bag. Serve
the whey while hot.
VINO-COLTO. — A cordial manufactured in Milazzo,
from wine must boiled with potash.
VINO-SANTO . — An Italian wine manufactured in
Perugia.
VIN-REGNO. — The name given to a medicinal wine
prepared from essence of beef, port wine, extract of malt,
and quinine. It is commonly known as Pearson’s Beef
Wine, and is strongly recommended by the medical
faculty for its health-giving qualities.
VINS DE LIQUEUR— The French name for sweet
sugary wines.
VINS ORDIN AIRES. — The French name of a class
of wines which possess very little body or flavour.
VIOLETS (Fr. Violettes; Ger. Veilclien; Ital.
Violette; Sp. Yioletas). — One of the prettiest fancies of
the artistic confectioner is the use they occasionally make
of sweet-smelling and pleasantly-flavoured flowers.
Amongst these the Violet ( Viola odorata ) holds a very
prominent position, its deep rich colour rendering it ex-
ceedingly acceptable for its appearance sake. Orris-root
is very similar in flavour and smell to Violets, for which
it is often used as a substitute.
Candied Violets. — Take some double Violets and pick off
the green stalks. Clarify and boil some loaf sugar to the
blow (see Sugar-boiling), put the Violets into it, and
let the sugar again boil to the blow ; draw the pan from
the fire, and rub the sugar against the sides of the pan
till it turns white ; stir all together till the sugar sepa-
rates from the Violets, then sift and put them into the
stove to dry. For garnishing sweet dishes, compotes, &c.,
these (see Fig. 1013) are exceedingly useful and pretty.
Essence of Violets.— (1) Infuse a pressed-down quart of
freshly-gathered perfumed Violets in 4 gall, of plain spirit
for a fortnight. Strain off or filter into bottles, and cork.
(2) Imitation. — Put lib. of finely-ground orris-root into
a jar with 1 gall, of spirits of wine or grain spirit, and
let it infuse; then mix it in 3lb. of sugar and lqt. of
water. Let it remain for a month, filter, and bottle.
Preserved Violets.— Soak a quantity of freshly-gathered,
nicely-picked, blue Violet blossoms in cold watei foi a
few minutes, and dry them in a soft cloth. Make a
syrup of lib. of loaf sugar, and boil it till when a little
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, ,
Violets — continued.
put into cold water becomes brittle. Add to the syrup
one drop of essential oil of Violets, a tiny bit of carmine
about the size of a good-sized pin’s head, and the same
quantity of ultra-marine blue ; take care to use vegetable
colouring matter that is harmless. Throw in the Violets,
and stir them about in the syrup very carefully with a
silver fork till they are well coated with sugar ; then lay
them on a sieve to dry.
Syrup of Violets.— (1) Put the leaves of lib. of freshly-
gathered Violets into a basin, pour a small quantity more
than I pint of boiling water over them, cover immediately,
and leave for fourteen hours. Strain the liquor off the
V iolets through a fine hair sieve into a saucepan, put in
31b. of crushed loaf sugar, and stir over the fire until
dissolved. When the liquor commences to boil, remove it
at once from the fire, cover, and leave it until nearly
colil. Pass the syrup through a cloth or fine silk sieve,
pour it into a suitable bottle, cork tightly, and put by
until required for use.
(2) Put lqt. of freshly gathered Violets into a jar with
4 gall, of plain spirit, and infuse for two weeks. Strain
oil' the liquor, which will be the essence of Violets, and
add to the Howers lqt. of syrup. Let it stand for a fort-
night longer, then strain the liquor through a cloth, ex-
tracting as much as possible. Add sufficient indigo and
cochineal to give it the required Violet tint, and bottle.
Violet Balls. — Melt Bb. 0f sugar in a little cold water,
mix with it I caltspoonful of cream of tartar, put it
over a moderate lire, and let it boil till a little of it
thrown into cold water will form a soft jelly. Remove it
from the lire then immediately, let it stand closely
covered for ten minutes, and beat it to a cream with a
small wooden spatula. Work in 2 table -spoon fuls of sweet
almonds blanched and grated, add a flavouring of heliotrope,
and work the cream into balls. Roll these balls in preserved
Violet leaves mashed to powder.
Violet Conserve. — Pick from their stalks some early Violets;
put 2oz. of them into a mortar, and pound and bruise them
well. Put over the fire lib. of loaf sugar, clarify it, and
boil to the crack ( see Sugar boiling) ; take it from the
fire, add the pulp of the Violets, return the pan to the
lire, and as soon as the sugar bubbles up pour the con-
serve into moulds.
Violet Drops. — (1) Mix 1 table-spoonful of essence of Violets
with the strained juice of three lemons, add sufficient
powdered white sugar to form a pretty thick paste, colour
it blue, dry it over the fire a little, and then drop it from
the point of a knife on to paper. Let the drops be about
the size of a sixpence. Let them stand till quite cold,
then take them from the paper, and put in papered boxes.
(2) Sift about 211). or so of sugar through a coarse sieve
and then through a liner one, rejecting the fine powder,
as it has a tendency to make the drops heavy and thick,
and greatly interferes with their appearance. Put the 21b.
of sugar into a sugar pan, and add sufficient water to
make it of such a consistency that it will drop from the
spoon without sticking to it. Set the pan on a ring on
the stove, and with a spatula stir until the sugar is
dissolved and upon the point of boiling ; remove from the
stove, add sufficient essence of Violets to flavour, and con-
tinue to stir until when dropped on to a board it will
retain a round form and not spread too much. A little
coarsely -powdered sugar may be added should it be too
thin. Drop it in small lumps upon a tin, and let them
dry for about two hours. Remove them, and pack away
in boxes.
Violets in Jelly. — Dissolve Hoz. of gelatine, previously
soaked in a teacupful of water, with a small quantity of
sugar and lemon-juice. Put fib. of sugar in a saucepan,
with 1 j >int of water, the white of an egg, the juice of
half a lemon, and stir it over the fire till reduced to a
thin syrup ; then filter it through a jelly-bag, return it to
the saucepan or sugar-pan, and warm up again. Pick the
stalks off a small quantity of freshly-gathered Violets,
and put the flowers in the syrup ; place the lid on the
stewpan, and leave it for ten minutes. Strain the syrup
through a tine hair sieve, and mix the clarified gelatine
,uces, <£c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
749
Violets — continued.
with it. Flavour it with 2 wineglassfuls of kirschen-
wasser or brandy, pour it into a mould, and pack in ice.
When the jelly has set quite firm, dip the mould in warm
water, wipe it, then turn it quickly over on to a fancy dish
(see Fig. 1014). Garnish with candied Violets, and serve.
Violet Marmalade. — Put 441b. of Violets picked from
their stalks into a mortar, and bruise and pound them to
a pulp. Clarify 61b. of loaf sugar, and boil to the blow
( see Sugar- boiling) ; add the pulped flowers, mix them
well in, and stir in 3lb. of apple marmalade ; let it boil
up a few times, stirring and mixing well, put the marma-
lade into pots, and cover air-tight.
Violet Rock Candy. — Pick the petals off some Violets.
Boil some powdered white sugar to the blow (see SuGAR-
BOILING). Have a tin candying-pan shaped like a dripping-
pan, and about 3in. deep ; pour the boiled sugar into it,
strew the petals of the Violets as thickly as possible on
top, put it into a hot stove, anti let it remain there for
ten days. When it is hard candied, break a hole in one
corner of the sugar, drain out all the syrup, break the
candy out in pieces, heap them on a tin, and dry in a
stove.
Violet Sherbet. — Put about lib. of freshly-gathered
Violet flowers on a dish with 5lb. of caster sugar, and
rub well together until the sugar is of the same colour
as the Violets. Put it into jars, and cover them air-
tight. To make a most refreshing beverage of the above
mixture, dissolve 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of it in a tumbler of
water; it will be found delightful in the hot summer
days.
Violet Vinegar. — This vinegar should be made in the spring
time, when the Violets are plentiful. Gather the required
quantity of wood Violets, remove their stalks, and pack
them closely into wide-mouthed glass bottles. Fill the
bottles with the best vinegar, cork them tightly, and
keep them in the sun or a warm place for a month. At
the end of that time strain the vinegar off the Violets,
and put it into small bottles ready for use.
VIRGIN CREAM. — See Cream.
VIVO.— The name of a beef tea for which special
virtues are claimed.
VODKA.— A very inferior kind of rye whisky made in
Russia, and so commonly consumed that the term has
become synonymous of a drink generally. To take a
Vodka means in Russia neither more nor less than to take
a dram.
VOL-AU-VENTS.— These may be described as light
puff paste with a raised border, filled with a savoury or
cream ragout (see Fig. 1015).. As they give the cook an
opportunity of displaying his skill in the manufacture of
French pastry, a few receipts for the manufacture of
specially named Vol-au- Vents are given hereunder:
Vol-au-Vents a la Chantilly. — Take lib. of puff paste, give
it six-and-a-lialf turns, roll it out to about Jin. thick, and
Vol -au-vents — continued.
with a fluted cutter cut out about twoand-a-half-dozen
pieces. Form them into rings by cutting out the centres
with a cutter about ljin. in diameter. With the trimmings
of the paste prepare an equal number of rings the same
size, brush them over with egg, put one of the other
rings on each, press them so as to adhere, put them on a
baking-sheet, brush over with egg, put them into a quick
oven, and bake. When nearly done, dust them with
sugar, and put them back into the oven to glaze and finish
cooking. Take them out, fill them with any kind of cream,
and serve.
Vol-au-Vent a la Financiere. — Prepare lib. of puff paste,
and roll it out to 2Jin. in thickness. Cut a round out
of the paste with a tin cutter, brush the round over with
a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, without touching the
sides, and with a knife, the point held slanting inwards
towards the centre, make a circular incision, pressing the
inner paste well to prevent it closing up again. Make a
lid with some of the remaining paste to fit in the well of
the Vol-au-Vent, brush the top over with beaten egg, put
the paste on a baking-sheet, and bake for half-an-hour in
a moderate oven. Put loz. of butter and 1 table -spoonful
of flour in a stewpan, stir it over the fire till well mixed,
then pour in gradually 1 pint of stock, and continue stir-
ring over the fire till boiling. Put 1 wineglassful of sherry,
2 table -spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, and a little
cayenne pepper in the sauce, move it to the side of the
fire, and let it simmer gently for fifteen minutes for the pur-
pose of clarifying it ; then skim it, put in a piece of glaze,
place it on the tire, and boil quickly for five minutes
longer. When the glaze has dissolved, strain the sauce
through a line hair sieve into another stewpan, put in it
two partially -boiled veal sweetbreads, three or four cocks’
combs, and a few truffles and mushrooms, all cut into rather
small pieces. Boil the sauce gently till the sweetbreads,
&c., are cooked, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
When cooked, take the Vol-au-Vent out of the oven,
remove the centre carefully without damaging the case,
pour the above mixture into it, and cover with the lid.
Place the Vol-au-Vent on a folded napkin or a dish-paper
on a hot dish, and serve while very hot. If the cases
are made and cooked before the mixture to fill them is
ready, they can always be put in the oven and warmed
again.
Vol-au-Vents au Fraises. — Prepare 111), of puff paste, giving
it six-and-a-lialf turns; roll it out to about Jin. thick,
and with a fluted cutter 2in. in diameter cut out about
two-and-a-half-dozen rounds. Cut away the centre of these
with a cutter 1 Jin. in diameter. Work up the remainder
of the paste, and with it form an equal number of rings
cut out in the same way. Put them one on top of
another. Have ready 4oz. of sugar boiled to the caramel
(sec Sugar boiling), dip the tops of the Vol-au-Vents
in it, and afterwards into coarsely -sifted loaf sugar, and
bake in a quick oven. Put 3oz. more of sugar into the
saucepan with the caramel, reduce it again to caramel,
then add about 1 teacupful of the strained juice of straw-
berries. Fill the Vol-au-Vent cases with whole strawberries,
cover with the syrup, and serve.
Vol-au-Vent a la Normande. — Prepare a puff paste with
lib. each of flour and butter and Joz. of salt. Boll the paste
out to fin. thick, and cut it round to the size of the dish
on which it is to be served. Put the flat of paste on a
baking-sheet, brush it over with beaten egg, and cut a
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
750
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
V ol-au-V ents — continued.
circle through the middle about Jin. deep, leaving an edge
about lin. wide all round. Bake the paste in a moderate
oven, and when cooked lift up the centre piece, which will
have risen ; scoop out t he uncoi ked paste, brush the inside
with beaten egg, and put it in the oven for live minutes
longer. Prepare a ragout of scalloped lillets of soles,
oysters, mussels, and sliced mushrooms. Mix the cooking-
liquor of the mussels with some veloute sauce maigre,
boil it till somewhat reduced, then thicken it with the
beaten yolks of two eggs. Mix the sauce with the ragout,
put the cover of paste on, stand it on the dish it was
made to fit, and serve.
Vol-au-Vents a. la Toulouse. — Prepare Mb. of puff paste,
giving it six turns. Roll the paste out about 2in. in
thickness, and with a small round tin cutter divide the
paste into rounds; with another tin cutter lin. smaller in
diameter than the one just used, cut three-parts through
the centre of each round of paste, thus forming the lids.
Put the cases on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven, and
bake them till nicely browned. When cooked, lift the
centre pieces up carefully and scoop out the underdone
paste. Prepare a few quenelles of chicken forcemeat, put
them in a saucepan with the flesh of half a cold cooked
chicken cut into small pieces, 2oz. of chopped cooked
tongue, three sliced truffles, four or five mushrooms, three
cocks’ combs, and J pint of supreme sauce. Stir the
above mixture over the fire till hot, but not boiling, fill
the Vol au- Vents with it, arrange them on a folded napkin
or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, and serve
at once. The cases should only be filled when ready
to serve, as standing long with the mixture in them is
likely to make them sodden.
VOSLAUER. — The best of the Austrian wines,
both sparkling and still, are so named.
VOUARA. — A beverage prepared by the Indians of
French Guiana, from the fruit of the plantain. Another
beverage very similar to this is known as Vouapaya.
■WATERS.— A variety of Wafers will be found
described under various headings, such as Ginger,
Gluten, Graham-flour, Oatmeal, &c., their mode of
preparation being carefully explained. Should it be
desired to make the Wafers exceedingly thin and exact in
Fig. 1016. Wafer-irons (Adams and Son).
size, it is advisable to use wafer-irons or tongs (see Fig.
1016), which are of round, square, oval, or oblong pattern,
the faces being made to stamp patterns and letters. The
following will be found good receipts :
(1) Stir into ) pint of new milk to which a little
cream has been added sufficient dried and finely-sifted
flour to form a thin batter ; then add 1 wineglassful of
sherry or Maderia, a dusting of powdered cinnamon, and
1 large table spoonful of caster sugar. It is perhaps
advisable to dissolve the sugar in the milk before stirring
in the flour. Have the wafer-irons ready heated, rub the
surfaces with a piece of buttered rag, pour 1 spoonful of
the batter on to the hollowed inner face of one blade of
the tongs, close them tightly, turn them once or twice
over the fire, and the Wafers are cooked.
(2) Put 6oz. of well -dried flour into a basin, add the
yolks of two eggs, 1 table -spoonful of caster sugar,
and 1 table-spoonful of cream mixed with double the
quantity of rose-water. Form these into a batter, using
water should it be too thick, and then add the whites of
W afers — continued.
the two eggs, whipped to a froth. Oil the wafer-irons,
pour in a thin coating of the batter, close the irons, and
cook over a charcoal fire. When done, roll them round a
stick, and stand them on end to dry. Should a pink
colouring be desired, a little cochineal should be added.
(3) Mix lib. of flour smooth with \ pint of thick
cream, then beat in gradually lib. of caster sugar and 1
teacupful of orange-flower water. When quite smooth,
stir in a little more cream, to bring the mixture to the
consistency of fine fritters. Heat the wafer-irons on both
sides and grease them inside; put about U table-spoonfuls
of liquid paste into each wafer-iron, shut them up, and
cook on both sides until a delicate brown. While still hot
roll them round. Keep them dry in biscuit-tins.
Dutch Wafers. — Rub 3oz. of butter till quite smooth in
7oz. of sifted flour, then add ooz. of caster sugar and the
grated peel of an orange. Mix a beaten egg with the
above ingredients, and work them to a smooth stiff paste.
Cut the paste into small equal -sized portions, and shape
them like olives. Make a wafer-iron hot, put in one of
the pieces of paste, close the iron tightly, and cook on
both sides. When cooked, -take the Wafer out of the iron,
put it flat on a sieve, and finish the remainder of the
paste in the same way. The Wafers should be kept dry
in a biscuit-tin till used.
Flemish Wafers. — These differ very slightly from Dutch
Wafers, being flavoured with lemon, or almond, instead
of orange. Square or oblong irons are irsed for them.
French Wafers. — Put Mb. of finely-sifted flour into a basin
with Mb- of caster sugar, 1 pinch of salt, and 1 table-
spoonful of vanilla. Beat the whites of four eggs with \
pint of thin cream, stir them gradually in with the flour,
&c., and work the whole into a smooth batter; then pour
in 1 wineglassful of brandy, and work it vigorously for
ten minutes. Make the wafer-irons hot, brush them over
inside with a paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, pour
1 good table-spoonful of the batter on the bottom or
under-sheet of the wafer-irons, close the top part upon
this, and bake the Wafers on both sides. They must be
a very light fawn colour, and when done are to be
immediately rolled into shape upon a stick made for the
purpose about 5in. long and lin. thick. When all are done,
the Wafers should be packed in a tin box and kept in a
warm dry place till required for use.
Russian Wafers. — As these were introduced from French
schools of cookery, they are virtually the same as French
Wafers, differing only in the pattern of the wafer-iron,
which is oval instead of round or oblong, and vodka being-
substituted for brandy.
Timbale of Wafers with Filbert Ice.— Pound 7oz. of
Jordan almonds that have been previously blanched and
peeled with a little white of egg, then mix with them
Jib. of caster sugar. Stand some baking-sheets in the oven
for a few minutes ; when they are warmed, rub them over
with pure white wax and leave till cold. Spread the almond
paste on the sheets in strips 4in. wide and Mn- thick,
and bake them ; when they are nearly done, trim the edges
of the strips, cut them across into pieces liin. wide, then
put them back in the oven and finish baking. Roll the
pieces lengthwise round some sticks that are Mn- in
diameter. Place the Wafers with a little sugar icing in
an upright position round a small plain mould. Make a
round of Genoise paste about Jin. thick and the same size
as the mould ; take the ring of Wafers carefully out of
the mould, place them _ on the round of paste, and put
the timbale in a slack oven to dry. Bake lOoz. of filberts
sufficiently to dry the skins so that they may come off'
quickly ; when the filberts are cool and the skins removed,
pound them in a mortar, pouring on them gradually lqt.
of boiled cream, and pass the whole through a fine hair
sieve. Put the filbert cream in a stewpan with the yolks
of ten eggs and lOoz. of caster sugar. Stir the preparation
over the fire till it is thick, but do not let it boil ; strain
it through a fine hair sieve, put the cream in a freezing-
pot, pack it in pounded ice, and work the cream with a
spatula till all is nearly frozen ; then mix in 1 pint of
well-whipped cream, and finish freezing. When ready to
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
751
W afer s — con tinu ed .
serve, put the timbale on an ornamental paper on a dish,
fill it with the frozen cream, allowing it to come 2in. above
the edge of the timbale, and put a preserved cherry on
the top of each Wafer.
Timbale of Wafers with Maraschino Ice. — This timbale
is made as for Timbale of Wafers with Filbert Ice,
with the exception that the iced cream is flavoured with
J pint of maraschino instead of the filberts, and that a large
strawberry is put on the top of each Wafer.
Vanilla-flavoured Wafers. — These are made the same as
for Wafers with Pistachios, mixing half a stick of
vanilla well pounded with the sugar, and half a glass of
brandy in place of the orange -flower water.
Wafers a l’Allemande. — Make some paste as for Wafers
with Pistachios and Almonds, but omit the almonds
and pistachios. Whip some cream with a little caster
sugar, and flavour it with orange-flower water. When the
Wafers are cooked and ready to serve fill them with the cream,
put a preserved cherry or, if in season, a strawberry at
the end of each, arrange them in a pyramid on a folded
napkin on a dish, and serve.
Wafers filled with Cream. — (1) Beat together Jib. of
powdered vanilla sugar and the whites of three eggs till
frothy. Dry Jib. of flour, and pass it through a fine
hair sieve. Blanch, peel, and chop lib. of sweet almonds,
and mix them together with the flour into the beaten
eggs, adding by degrees two more beaten whites of eggs
and a pinch of salt. When the paste is quite smooth (it
should be liquid), bake a small portion of it in the oven
to try its consistency. Wax and flour some baking-sheets,
spread thin layers of the above mixture over them, and
bake in a quick oven. When baked, divide the Wafers
into 4in. squares, and roll them into cornets (see Fig. 1017).
Have ready a decorated gum-paste stand, with a small
W afer s — continued.
finely-chopped sweet almonds, and 1 teaspoonful of orange-
flower water. Warm two or three baking-sheets, rub them
over lightly with pure white wax, then drop the prepara-
tion on them with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny.
Blanch and shred some pistachios, and put some on each
cake. Bake them very lightly and crisp. When cooked,
take the Wafers with the aid of a thin knife off the
Fig. 1017 Wafer-cornets, Fig. 1018. Gum-paste Stand
One filled with Cream. for Wafers.
support in the centre, with two round shelves jutting
out a little above each other (see Fig. 1018). Fix the
stand on a round glass dish, place nine of the cornets
one beside the other round the lower gradin or shelf, six
round the second gradin, and set a vase of sweets on the
top ; use sugar icing to make the cornets adhere to the
stand. Flavour 1 pint or more of thick cream with
vanilla, and whip it to a stiff froth; then fill the cornets
with the cream and garnish round the base of the stand
with macaroons and candied fruits, and round the bottoms
of the lower cornets with candied flowers (see Fig. 1019).
Servo as soon as prepared.
(2) Put 6 table -spoonfuls of flour in a basin with 5
table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and beat in three eggs.
Rub a tin or copper baking-slieet over with cocoa-butter
spread the mixture over it, and bake in a brisk oven.
Flavour and sweeten 1 pint of cream to taste with vanilla
and caster sugar, and whip it to a stiff froth. Cut
the Wafer out into rounds, curl them up while hot, and
fill with the cream. When cold, arrange them in a circle
on an ornamental dish-paper spread over a plate, and
serve.
Wafers with Pistachios. — Beat six eggs with Jib. of caster
sugar, 1 breakfast- cupful of flour, Jib. of blanched and
baking-sheets, curl them over the handle of a wooden
spoon, and put them in a slack oven for a short time to
dry ; should the Wafers have got out of shape before
turning them on the handle of the spoon, trim them care-
fully round with a knife. They are then ready to be
served.
Wafers with Pistachios and Almonds. — Blanch Jib. of sweet
almonds, cut them up as fine as possible, and mix them
with 4oz. of crushed loaf sugar, the grated rind of an
orange, 1 dessert -spoonful of flour, a little salt, the yolks
of three eggs, and the whites of two ; when well and
carefully mixed, turn the whole out on to a well-buttered
or waxed baking-slieet, arrange the almonds evenly with
a fork, sprinkle over 2oz. of finely-chopped pistachios, put
it into a moderate oven, and bake to a light colour.
While still hot, cut it into lengths, wrap them separately
round a stick, let them get cold, ami they are ready
for use. Should it be preferred they may be cut into
lengths, the edges dipped into caramel, then into chopped
pistachios ; mask with apple or other jelly, and serve.
WAFER BISCUITS.— See Biscuits.
WAFER GINGERBREAD. — See Gingerbread.
WAFER-PAPER. — This is used in cookery for
covering some kinds of sweetmeats, or forms a basis upon
which sugary biscuits, such as macaroons, are laid.
Wafer-paper may be made as follows :
Make some fine flour into a smooth thin paste with water,
sweeten it with a little loaf sugar, and flavour with a
little powdered cinnamon. Pour this upon an oiled very
clean copper baking-slieet that has been previously heated
in the oven. As soon as the paste has set, it can be
stripped off and used as required ; or this paper may be
prepared by brushing over a hot bright baking-sheet with
white of egg or the above mixture. The heat of the
baking-slieet should be sufficient to set the egg or batter ;
should it not set at once, the sheet may be put in a hot
oven for a minute or two.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, tfcc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
752
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
WAFFLES {Fr. Gaufres; Gar. Waffeln).— English
pastrycooks have succeeded in creating some confusion
between these two foreign words, and appear to have
given credit to the Germans as originators and the French
as improvers. As the mode of
preparing the British wafer re-
sembles in some respects the
mode of preparing these W affles,
it is only natural that the British
pastrycook should have asso-
ciated the three terms, and con-
structed out of Gaufres, Waffeln,
and Wafer, an entirely new word
— Waffles, to wit.
Waffles are described as soft, indented cakes (see Fig.
1020) made in irons or tongs (see Fig. 1021) specially
constructed for the purpose. The following are favourite
receipts for their preparation. Others will be found
under Graham-flour, Rice, Sago, &c.
(1) Put 2 breakfast-cupfuls of warm milk into a basin,
mix in 2oz. of butter, two well-beaten eggs, a little
grated nutmeg and crushed loaf sugar, and enough flour
to form the whole into a stiff paste. Add 1 table -spoon-
ful of yeast, and put it in a warm place to rise. Let
it remain for two or three hours, work it softly and
lightly, and let it rise again for half an-hour longer. Put
about 2 table -spoonfuls of this paste into the waffle-irons,
which should be made hot ami well greased, close the
irons, and bake for a few minutes. Turn the Waffles
out when done a light colour, put them on a dish, dust
them over with caster sugar mixed with a small quantity
of ground cinnamon to flavour, and serve.
(2) Put in a vessel 3oz. of powdered sugar, lib. of flour,
three raw eggs, 3oz. of melted butter, and mix all well
together with a spatula for five minutes. Add It pints
of cream, and mix again well for two minutes. Have the
waffle-iron hot on both sides, and on a clear lire. Grease
with melted butter, using a feather for the purpose, and
drop into each of the holes 2 table -spoonfuls of the paste.
Bake for two minutes on each side, and if they have not
got a golden colour, bake for one minute longer on each
side. Heap them as fast as cooked on a hot dessert-dish.
When all are done, sprinkle carefully with powdered sugar
and serve very hot.
Fig. 1021. Waffle-irons (Adams and Son).
(3) Warm 5oz. of butter in a basin, and work it till
creamy with the hand ; stir in gradually the yolks of six
eggs, and when well mixed and frothy add 5oz. of flour, 1
pinch of salt, and 2oz. of sugar ; dissolve |oz. of yeast in a
little water, then mix it with the other ingredients, cover
the basin with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise.
When the paste has risen, mix with it the whipped whites
of five eggs. Heat an oblong waffle-iron, brush the inside
over with a paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, then
put 1 table-spoonful of paste on one side only of the iron,
close it, and cook the Waffle over a slow fire, turning the
iron over. When the Waffle is dry and a light colour,
put it on a dish, sprinkle over caster sugar that has been
flavoured with vanilla, and serve.
(4) Warm Jib. of butter, work it until creamy, then
beat in six eggs and ^lb. of flour alternately, thus : 1
table -spoonful of flour, then an egg, and so on. Add a
small quantity of salt, and stir in sufficient warm milk to
form a light batter. Beat the mixture thoroughly with a
wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes. Make the
waffle-irons hot, grease the interior with butter, fill the
deep part with batter, close the iron slowly, and hold it
over a clear fire. Turn the iron in a minute or two and
cook the other side of the batter. When cooked, the
Waffles should be delicately browned. Put them on a
hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or
W affles — continued.
an ornamental dish-paper, sift caster sugar and a small
quantity of powdered cinnamon over them, and serve.
(5) Sift 1 teaspoonful each of egg- and baking-powders
in with lib. of flour and 1 table-spoonful of finely-crushed
loaf sugar ; form a bay in the centre, pour in 4oz. of
oiled butter and 4 teacupful of water, and with these
make a light paste. Rub the hot waffle-irons with oil or
butter, pour in the paste to two-thirds their height, close
them, and cook over a charcoal fire. Pile on a dish, and
serve.
(6) Put 4oz. or 5oz. of flour into a basin with 3oz. of
crushed loaf sugar and a small quantity of salt ; mix well,
then add the yolks of four or five eggs and a small stick
of vanilla finely pounded ; stir in 1 liqueur-glassful of
ratafia or curapoa, mix well again, and add 1 breakfast-cupful
of whipped cream. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth, and stir them in lightly but thoroughly incorpora-
ting them. Make the irons hot, rub them over with
butter, fill them with the batter, brown them evenly on
both sides, place then on a dish, dust over with ground
allspice and sugar, and serve.
American Waffles.— Boil 1 teacupful of rice quite soft ; mix
with it a raw egg, 1 table-spoonful each of Hour and milk,
and beat all together to a smooth paste. Let it cool, pour it
into well-greased waffle-irons, and cook. When the
W affles are done on both sides, lay them on a hot plate,
butter them, and serve hot.
Flemish Waffles. — (1) Prepare a sponge with loz. of yeast
dissolved in a teacupful of warmed milk, adding sufficient-
flour to form a thin paste, and set it to rise in a warm
place. When sufficiently risen, work in the yolks of six
eggs and the whites of two, also the rind of an orange
nibbed off on sugar, and a small pinch of salt. When
well mixed, add 41 b. of slightly-melted butter, the whites
of four eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and lastly 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream. Set it to rise again until it becomes
twice its original bulk, put a little of it at a time into
the irons, cook them for a minute or two, dust over with
caster sugar, and they are ready for use.
(2) Mix tlh. of flour with six eggs, adding them gradu-
ally and working the whole into a smooth paste. Dissolve
a piece of German yeast half the size of a walnut in 1
wineglassful of warm water, then pour it into a basin with 1
teacupful of warmed milk and 1 pinch of salt ; melt 6oz. of
butter, stir it in with the milk and yeast, also 2 table-spoon-
fuls of oi ange flower water, and stand the basin in a warm
place for two hours, when the mixture will have risen
2in. or Sin. ; turn it round five or six times with a wooden
spoon to bring it down, and let it remain half an-hour
longer. Heat the waffle-irons upon a slow fire, turning
them occasionally, then wipe them well with a cloth ;
grease the interior with fat bacon, put in 2 or 3 spoonfuls
of the paste, close the irons, and put them over the fire
for a few minutes, turning occasionally. Take the Waffles
out when they are a light golden colour and very crisp.
Fig. 1022. Flemish Waffles.
Mix 41b. of caster sugar with |oz. of powdered cinnamon,
dip the Waffles in on both sides, arrange them in a pyramid
on a folded napkin (see Fig. 1022) on a dish, and serve while
very hot.
(3) Well beat six eggs, and work them in with 4-lb. of
flour to form a smooth paste. Put a little German yeast,
say about the size of a walnut, in \ teacupful of warm
water, and let it dissolve ; add to it 1 teacupful of warm
milk, 6oz. of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls of orange-flower
la&aaat
pa&sam
aammmmk
Fig. 1020. Waffle.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <kc., referred to, see under their special heads.
; 3. Ham, with Jelly and Mushrooms.
Slices of Salmon, garnished with Crayfish and Jelly. ; ^ Sirloin of Beef, glazed, and garnished with Parsley and Jelly.
Slices of Salmon, with Eggs, Crayfish, and Caviare Toasts.
753
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
W a files — coni inued.
water, and salt to taste. Stir the flour mixture in with
the warm milk, &c., work well with a wooden spoon,
and set the bowl containing this batter in a warm
temperature for two hours, by which time it should have
risen fully Sin. Work it slightly to let the fermentation
subside, and leave it for thirty minutes longer. Make
the irons hot, wipe them over with fat bacon, fill with
the batter, and cook for a few minutes. When done, dip
them in cinnamon sugar, pile them on a napkin on a
dish, and serve.
(4) Slightly warm lib. of fresh butter, and beat in six
eggs one at a time ; add a pinch of salt, and sift in gra-
dually, while still beating, lib. of fine dry flour and 1
table-spoonful of yeast, and pour in lastly 1 pint of thick
cream. Work the mixture well with the hand, then
cover the basin and set it in a warm place for a few
hours. Grease the wattle-mould, fill it with the mixture,
and cook them. When all the Waffles are cooked, put
them on a folded napkin on a dish, sift some caster
sugar over them, and serve.
(5) Dissolve J teacupful of fresh yeast in a breakfast-
cupful of warm milk, then stir it gradually into 41b. of
flour, mixing it to a smooth soft paste. Cover the paste
with a cloth, and stand it near the fire until well risen ;
then mix with it the beaten yolks of six eggs, Jib. of
butter that has been slightly warmed and beaten until
creamy, and a lump of sugar that has been rubbed over
the peel of a lemon and pounded. Whisk the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth and stir them lightly into the
mixture at the last. Stand the paste again in a warm
place, and leave it until it has risen to nearly double its
original bulk. Heat some waffle-irons, rub them with a
little pure fat or butter, fill them with the mixture on
one side, and close them. Cook the Waffles, turning
them when browned on one side. Put them on a hot
dish, strew caster sugar over, and serve.
(6) Put 1 teacupful of milk in a saucepan with J tea-
cupful of yeast, warm it, and then strain it. Put 6oz. of
finely-sifted flour into a basin, then pour in gradually the
milk and yeast, stirring well at the same time. When
quite smooth, stand the basin containing the dough in a
warm place to rise. Beat the yolks of four eggs together
with the grated peel of one lemon and 6oz. of slightly-
wanned butter. When the dough has well risen, mix
the above ingredients with it. Beat the whites of the
four eggs to a stiff froth and add them, also I table-
spoonful of whipped cream. Set the mixture near the
fire, and let it rise again. Heat the waffle-irons, brush
them over with a paste-brush dipped in warmed butter,
fill them with the mixture, and cook ; the Waffles should
be done to a good colour. Place them on a dish, sift
caster sugar over, and serve.
French. Waffles. — Put 9oz. of flour in a basin with I teacup-
ful of caster sugar, 1 table-spoonful of vanilla sugar, 1
wineglassful of noyau, and the yolks of eight eggs ,
when well mixed, stir in the eight beaten whites of the
eggs and 1 pint of cream. Cook the Waffles as directed
for Flemish Waffles, No. 2.
German Waffles. — Make lib. loz. of sifted flour and 4
pint of yeast into a paste with as much warm milk as
will make it drop from the spoon freely without being
too thin, and put it into a warm place to rise. When
well risen, mix into it the well beaten yolks of fourteen
eggs, the whites of fourteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth,
and the grated rinds of two lemons ; when these are well
mixed in, pour over lib. loz. of butter warmed but
not made very hot, stir it gently with a wooden spoon,
and put it again into a warm place to rise a second time.
When it has risen sufficiently, put a frying-pan over the
fire, rub it with butter, and fry the Waffles over a brisk
fire, browning them on both sides. The paste should be
very gently lifted off the top with a spoon and placed in
the frying-pan ; the mass of the paste must not on any
account be disturbed during the operation, nor should the
spoon be plunged into it. When the Waffles are all fried,
serve them hot, sprinkled with sugar and powdered cinnamon.
Ingleside Waffles. — Make 1 pint of cornmeal mush ;
while hot put in a small lump of butter and 1 dessert-
Waffles — continued.
spoonful of salt, and set the mush aside to cool. Mean
while beat separately till very light the whites and
yolks of four eggs ; add the eggs to the mush, stir in
gradually lqt. of wheaten flour, pour in 4 pint of butter-
milk or sour cream in which has been dissolved 4 tea-
spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and lastly bring to the
consistency of thin batter by the addition of sweet milk.
Waffle-irons should be put on to heat an hour in advance,
so that they may be in a proper condition for baking as
soon as the batter is ready. Have a brisk fire, butter the
irons thoroughly, but with nicety, and bake quickly.
Only half fill the waffle-irons with batter, so that the
WaiHes may have room to rise.
Quick Waffles. — Mix lqt. of flour with sufficient colvl milk
to make a thick batter ; work in six beaten eggs, 1
table-spoonful of melted butter, and 1 teaspoonful of salt ;
Jib. of sugar and half a nutmeg may be added to improve.
Bake in waffle-irons, and serve hot.
Raised Waffles. — (1) At night mix together 1 pint of
lukewarm milk in which 2 table-spoonfuls of butter have
been melted, 2 table-spoonfuls of liquid yeast or half a
small cake of compressed yeast dissolved in 1 gill of
water, two eggs well beaten, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and
lib. of flour. When this batter is thoroughly mixed,
cover it, and keep it overnight in a warm place. In the
morning heat a waffle-iron, butter it, put in the batter
without stirring it down, and then bake the Waffles.
Serve with butter and powdered sugar.
(2) Sift 1 pint of flour, and mix with it 1J table-spoon-
fuls of liquid yeast, 1J breakfast-cupfuls of warm milk,
and loz. of butter that has been slightly warmed and
beaten until creamy. Work the whole up smoothly,
cover with a cloth, and set it to rise in a warm temper-
ature all night. On the following morning beat three
eggs well, mix with them 4 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of
soda that has been dissolved in a small quantity of warm
water, and stir them in with the above mixture. Make
the waffle-irons hot, butter them, and three-parts fill
each with the batter. Bake them until lightly browned,
being very careful not to scorch them, then turn them out,
and finish the rest of the batter.
Russian Waffles. — Put Jib. of butter into a basin, melt it,
and beat well with a spoon until it is quite thick. Add
the yolks of eight eggs, one at a time, working one well
in before another is added ; when the mixture has the
consistency of cream, sift in gradually Jib. of dried flour
and 2oz. of vanilla sugar ; then add the whites of the
eight eggs whipped to a stiff froth and 1 breakfast-
cupful of well-whisked and drained cream. Put the mixture
in a deep waffle-mould, dust over a lit+le vanilla sugar,
and bake them. Take them out when done, let them get
cold, divide them transversely in halves, put a layer of
them at the bottom of a dish, cover with apricot marmalade,
and continue in this way until all the Waffles are used up,
keeping them as much in the form of a pyramid as
possible. Pour over some cream that has been well
whipped, drained, sweetened to taste, and mixed with a
little flavouring of any description. Decorate the cream
with a little more of the same, squeezing it through a
cornet, and serve.
Waffles a la Casalesry. -Press and work Jib. of fresh
liutter in a cloth to extract the milk, put it in a warm
basin, and work it round with the hand till creamy;
then mix in Jib. of sifted flour and a piece of yeast the
size of a walnut ; when well mixed, keep the preparation
in a warm place for half-an hour or until well risen. Mix
J pint of whipped cream with the mixture and a little
salt. Heat the waffle-irons, and finish the Waffles as for
Flemish Waffles (2).
Waffles made with Sour Cream. — Slightly warm Jib. of
butter and beat it until creamy; then mix with it the
beaten yolks of six eggs and J pint of thick sour cream ;
mix in gradually Jib. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of blanched
and pounded bitter almonds, and a small quantity of
grated lemon-peel or nutmeg. Whisk the whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the above mixture, also
4 wineglassful of rum. Stir the batter until quite smooth.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 C
VOL II.
754
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
W affl.es — continued.
Make the waffle-irons hot, grease the interior with butter
or clarified fat, pour some of the batter in the deepest
part, close them slowly, and hold them over a clear fire,
fn two or three minutes, when the Waffles are browned
on one side, turn the irons and brown the other side.
When cooked, arrange the Waffles on a dish over which
has been spread a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper, strew caster sugar and a small quantity of
powdered cinnamon over, and serve.
WAITERS. — Trays used by waiters when sup-
plying food or refreshments are known by this name.
Under the heading Table Service will be found some
very useful instructions in regard to the use of these,
which are generally silver or electro-plated (see Fig. 1023),
giving a decided brilliancy to the service that could only
be acquired in this manner. Waiters, or salvers, as they
are sometimes termed, from the Latin saluare — to save,
the word being more properly applied to saucers, answer
also as trays for holding a decanter of wine and glasses.
For this purpose they are usually fitted with legs, as
shown in the illustration.
WAITING AT TABLE.— See Table Service.
WALD-MEISTER. — See Asperule Odorante.
Fig. 1024. Green Walnuts.
WALNUTS ( Fr . Noix ; Ger. Walniisse; Ital. Noci ;
Sp. Nueces). — Amongst the Southern races of Europe the
Walnut is the nut of nuts, hence it is simply styled nut;
W alnuts — continued.
but with us it is acknowledged to be a foreigner, and
the term “ wal ” added (signifying foreign), from the
Saxon wealh. At one time the Englishman’s ideal of
a nut was a filbert, or cob-nut; but, as the Walnut
was probably introduced into this country and cultivated
Fig. 1025. Highflyer Walnut.
here as early as the middle of the sixteenth century, it
has since had plenty of time to become naturalised and a
prime favourite, especially for dessert, or as an accompani-
ment to wine. The Romans called it Jupiter’s nut, and
the Greeks styled it Royal.
According to Dr. Royle the Walnut ( Juglans regia )
grows over a very extensive domain : “ From Greece and
Fig. 1026. Double Walnut.
Asia Minor, over Lebanon and Persia, probably all along
the Hindoo Klioosh to the Himalayas. It is abundant in
Kashmir, and is found in Jirmore, Kumaon, andNepaul.”
The trees sometimes grow to an enormous size and age,
bearing prolifically season after season. The wood is so
exceedingly valuable for making furniture that a planta-
tion of Walnuts would yield most profitable results.
Fig. 1027. Elongated Walnut.
The free picking of the green fruit (see Fig. 1024) for
pickling increases the size of those nuts that are left to
ripen, and thus a double source of profit is ensured.
There are several varieties of Walnuts brought to our
British fruit-markets, the best being known as the High-
dyer (see Fig. 1025) ; the Double Walnut (see Fig. 1026) is
large and square, the fruit being comparatively small and
lacking flavour. The Elongated Walnut (see Fig. 1027)
grows very large, but the kernel is not particularly fine
flavoured. The Titmouse Walnut has a shell so soft that
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, d-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
755
W alnuts — co ntinued.
a small bird can peck through it, hence its name. The
Long-beaked Walnut (see Fig. 1028) has an elongation at
the flower end which gives it a peculiar appearance before
it is shelled.
Walnuts can be preserved from one year to another by
removing the green husks, drying the shells thoroughly,
Fig. 1028. Long-beaked Walnut.
and then packing the nuts in layers in jars or boxes, and
covering them with dried silver sand. When wanted for
use, all that is necessary is to dust them and wipe them
with a clean cloth. If the kernels are at all shrivelled, it
is a good plan to soak them for a few hours in warmed
milk.
Green Walnuts. — These should be gathered as early
in the year as they are fully grown without the shell
having formed in the interior. By testing one or two of
the largest on the tree, the condition of the others may be
guessed. Let them rather be too young than too old.
The following are good receipts for their use :
Compote of Green Walnuts. — Split the Walnuts through
their natural division with the point of a knife, then pass
the knife round the inner part of the shell and extract
the kernel. Free the nuts from the white pith, and put
them in cold water that has been acidulated with lemon -
juice. Drain the Walnuts, pile them in a heap in a compotier,
pour over them some syrup that has been flavoured with
white noyau, and serve.
Conserve of Green Walnuts. -Procure the Walnuts
before the shell has formed, peel the green rinds oft’, place
the Walnuts in a basin, pour boiling water over them,
covering them well, put a plate over the basin, and leave
them until the water has cooled a little. Then strain it
off, and pour over fresh boiling water. In a quarter of
an hour’s time, cover them again with fresh boiling water,
straining the other away, and then when that has cooled
plunge the Walnuts into cold water and leave them for
lialf-an-hour. For one hundred Walnuts put into a pre-
serving-pan 21b. of crushed loaf sugar and li pints of water,
the juice of one lemon, and the white of one egg. Boil
the sugar over the fire until dissolved, then strain the
syrup through a fine hair sieve and return it to the pan.
Cut half a stick of vanilla into small pieces a,nd put
them in the syrup. Wipe the Walnuts quite dry on a '
cloth, put them in the syrup, and boil until soft. Leave
the Walnuts in the syrup until cold, then pack them in
jars; pour their syrup over them, cover the jars with
stout paper, tie down securely, and pack away in a dry
store-cupboard till required for use.
Pickled Walnuts. — (1) Scald a hundred Walnuts before
they have hard shells, and rub off the first skin. Put
them in a jar with some strong cold brine, changing it
on the third and sixth days. On the ninth day take the
Walnuts out and dry them. Put in a mortar loz. each of
long pepper pods, black pepper, ginger, and allspice, loz. of
cloves, two or three blades of mace, and 1 table-spoonful
of white mustard seed, and pound them together. Put a
layer of the Walnuts in a jar, then strew them well over
with a layer of the mixture, and proceed in the same |
Walnuts — continued.
manner till all are covered. Boil 3qts. of vinegar with
some sliced horseradish and ginger, and pour it while hot
into the jar. Strain the vinegar off and boil it up every
day for three or four days, pouring it hot each time over
Fig. 1029. Pickled Walnuts.
the Walnuts, and always keeping them closely covered ;
put a few cloves of garlic in the vinegar when boiling
it the last time. In six months’ time the pickles will
be ready for use. Serve them in a flat glass dish (see
Fig. 1029).
(2) Procure the Walnuts before the shells are hard;
wrap each one separately in a vine leaf, and put them in
a jar with some more vine-leaves to prevent them touch-
ing each other. Cover the nuts with best vinegar, close
the jar to exclude the air, and let it stand for twenty
days. At the end of that time strain the vinegar off the
nuts, wrap them in fresh vine-leaves, pack them in the
jar again in the same manner as before, and cover with
fresh vinegar. In a fortnight’s time take the Walnuts
out of the leaves, and put them in a jar. Mix together
sufficient brine (strong enough to float an egg) and white
wine vinegar to cover the Walnuts, put in it 4oz. each of
cloves and nutmeg, loz. of mace, and two peeled and
sliced heads of garlic. Boil the vinegar for fifteen minutes,
then pour it while hot over the Walnuts. Tie the jar
tightly over with bladder and leather, and keep it in a
cool dry place.
(3) Select the requisite quantity of large French Walnuts,
and peel them until the white part is just visible, taking
care not to cut too deep; throw each Walnut as it is
done into a basin of salted water. Next drain them, put
them into a lined saucepan with plenty of salt, and
cover with boiling water. Boil them quickly for ten
minutes, then take them out of the water, lay them on
a cloth that has been spread over a sieve, cover with
another cloth, and leave them until cold. Pack the
Walnuts into wide mouthed glass bottles, putting a blade
of mace in each bottle, and fill them up with strong
vinegar; pour in each a few drops of salad-oil. Stopper
the bottles, and keep them in a cool, diy store-cup-
board.
(4) Gather the Walnuts when they may easily be
pierced with a pin. Score them on one side with a knife,
or run a large needle through them in three or four
places ; put them into salted water and let them steep in
it for twelve days, changing the brine twice. Then put
them into jars and sprinkle very sparingly with salt.
For one hundred nuts boil lgall. of vinegar with one
head of garlic, ioz. of ginger slightly crushed, loz. of
whole pepper, ioz. of allspice, ioz. of nutmeg sliced or
broken, and 1 table -spoonful each of scraped horseradish and
mustard added for each quart ; pour it boiling into the jars
over the nuts, and cover each jar with a plate. When the
pickle is quite cold, cover the jars close and tie them
down. When the nuts are all used, the liquor may be
boiled, then strained and bottled for use in flavouring
sauces, &c.
(5) Take some green unripe Walnuts, run a larding-
needle through them in two or three jdaces, put them
into a brine made with lib. of salt to each quart of water,
and let them steep in this for a week. Then put them
into a stewpan with some of the brine, and give them a
gentle simmer ; drain them on a sieve, lay them on a
plate with a drainer, and let them stand in the air till
they turn black ; this may perhaps take two days. Put
them into glass jars, about three-parts filling them. Put
the vinegar to cover them into a iarge stone jar, adding
for each quart 2oz. of whole black pepper, loz. each of whole
ginger, salt, and shallots, boz. of allspice, and l drachm of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 c 2
756
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Walnuts — continued.
cayenne ; cover the jar with a piece of bladder wetted
with pickle, tie over that a piece of chamois leather, and
put the jar on a trivet beside the fire or on a stove that
is not very hot, and let it remain there for three days,
shaking it up three times each day. Pour it hot over the
Walnuts, and tie the jars down with bladder wetted with
pickle, over that chamois leather, and over all strong
brown paper firmly tied on.
(6) Take the required quantity of Green Walnuts before
the inner shell has hardened, put them into salted water,
and let them steep in it for nine days, changing the
brine every three days. Lay them on a mat or on sieves
so that they do not touch one another, and put them out
in the air to dry and blacken, turning them occasionally
that they may blacken evenly all over; then put them
into a jar. When half the nuts are in, put in an onion
stuck with twenty-five or thirty cloves, and then put in
the rest of the nuts. Allow to every hundred Walnuts
sixty bay-leaves, 4oz. of whole pepper, Joz. of mace, and
4 pint of mustard seed ; boil the spice in good strong
vinegar, and cover the Walnuts with the vinegar, pouring
it over them while boiling. Put the spice on top, and
keep the jar covered with a plate till the pickle is cold.
When quite cold, tie it down with bladder wetted with
vinegar, and a piece of chamois leather over that.
Preserved Green Walnuts. — The Walnuts should be full
grown but not hard when gathered for preserving. Prick
the Walnuts with a pin and soak them in cold water for
two hours. Strain the water off the Walnuts, pour some
fresh over them, and let them soak for four days, chang-
ing the water every day, thus removing the bitterness.
Put the Walnuts in a pan with some fresh water, and
let them simmer till soft. Take the Walnuts out with a
skimmer, put them in a jar of cold water, and let them
stand for four days, changing the water as before. Boil
some coarse brown sugar in some water to make a syrup,
then strain it through a jelly-bag; boil it again till thick,
then let it stand till nearly cold. Drain the water off the
Walnuts, pour the syrup over them, and leave till the
following day. Boil the syrup up every day for nine days,
adding a little more sugar each time, and pouring it over
the Walnuts when nearly cooled. Put some cinnamon and
cloves in a little water and let them soak for twenty. four
hours, then cut each clove into four pieces lengthwise, and
the cinnamon into pieces about the same size. Drain the
syrup off the Walnuts, boil it up again, then leave it till
half cold. Stick four pieces of clove and four pieces of
cinnamon into each Walnut, pour the syrup over them,
and leave them for a day longer. The next day, drain
the syrup, put it over the fire in a saucepan, and when
on the point of boiling put in the Walnuts; let them boil
up, then when they are getting soft move them off the fire.
Make some bottles hot, fill them with the Walnuts,
putting them in one by one, then cover with the syrup,
and leave till cold. Cork the bottles, cover them with
parchment, and tie down tightly. If the Walnuts are kept
for any length of time, fresh syrup must be poured over
them occasioually, as the fruit absorbs it.
Walnut-and- Anchovy Sauce for Fish. — Take the Walnuts
at the season for pickling, slice them into an earthenware
pan, and between|every layer throw a small handful of salt ;
stir with a wooden stick every day for a fortnight, then
strain the liquor through a coarse cloth, and let it stand
to settle. Pour off the clear, and boil it with lib. of
anchovies to each pint ; skim it, and let it stand to
cool; add 1 pint each of red port and best white vinegar
to each pint of liquor, also Joz. of mace, cloves, and
nutmeg, some ground mustard, horseradish, and shallot,
or a clove of garlic, and boil up again. Strain off into
bottles, and cork down for preservation.
Walnut Ketchup. — (1) Put a hundred green Walnuts into a
mortar and beat them till well bruised, then put them
into a jar with 6oz. of chopped shallots, a head of garlic,
Jib. of salt, and 2qts. of vinegar. Stir the contents of the
jar twice a day fora fortnight, then strain off the vinegar,
put it into a saucepan with three anchovies, 1 table-spoon -
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Walnuts — continued.
ful of cloves, 2 table-spoonfuls of peppercorns, and Joz. of
mace. Boil the vinegar for half-an-hour, then strain it off
and leave till cold. Pour the vinegar into bottles, being
careful not to get any of the sediment mixed up in it.
Cork the bottles tightly, and keep them in a dry store-
cupboard.
(2) Put the Walnuts in a tub with plenty of common
salt, and let them stand for a week, beating and mashing
them well every day till the shells are soft and pulpy.
Press the Walnuts well till all the liquor runs from them,
then pour it into a saucepan, and boil it up, removing the
scum as it rises. Put Jib. each of ginger and allspice,
and 2oz. each of cloves and long pepper, into a mortar, and
beat them. Put the mixture into the vinegar, and boil it
for half an -hour. Leave the ketchup till cold, then stir it
up well and bottle, taking care that an equal quantity of
spice goes into each bottle. Cork and seal the bottles,
and keep them in a cool dry store-cupboard. The ketchup
will be ready for use in a year’s time.
(3) Mash forty black Walnuts in a mortar, put them
in a saucepan with lgall. of vinegar, and boil it till re-
duced to 3qts. Strain the ketchup, season it to taste
with spices, salt, and cloves of garlic, and leave till cool.
Pour the ketchup into bottles, and cork down tightly
with good corks.
(4) Pound a hundred Walnuts in a mortar, put them in
a jar with 2 breakfast-cupfuls of finely chopped shallots,
1 breakfast-cupful of chopped garlic, 4 breakfast-cupful of
horseradish, 1 breakfast-cupful of bruised mustard seed,
Jib. each of black pepper and allspice, and 2 table-spoon-
fuls of salt. If liked, cloves, mace, sliced ginger, and
nutmeg may be used. Pour in lgall. of vinegar, cork
down tightly, and stand the jar in the sun for a week,
shaking well every day. At the end of that time boil
the ketchup for fifteen minutes, then leave it till nearly
cool. Strain it, bottle, cork down tightly, and seal the
bottles.
(5) Bruise well a hundred and twenty young green
Walnuts, and put them into a pan with lqt. of vinegar
and fib. of salt ; let them remain in this for a fortnight,
stirring them every day. Then strain them through a
cloth, squeezing them well, and set the liquor aside. Put
the squeezed nuts back again into the pan, add to them
J pint of vinegar, and let it stand all night. Next day
strain the liquor through a cloth, squeezing the Walnuts
well as before. Add the liquor to that which was set
aside on the previous day, together with forty cloves,
IJoz. of whole black pepper, Joz. of nutmeg, bruised or
broken, Joz. of ginger, and 5 drachms of mace, put it over
the fire, and let it boil for half-an-hour. Strain it then,
and bottle.
(6) Put three half sieves of green Walnut shells into
a tub, add to them lib. or 141b. of salt, and stir well
among them. Let this stand for six days, beating and
mashing them frequently till the shells are quite soft and
pulpy. Bank them up at one side of the tub, and raise
the tub at that side so that the liquor may drain off to
the other side. Take the liquor out, mash and bank up
the Walnuts again, take away any liquor that runs
from them, and continue to bank and mash as long as
any liquor is to be obtained from them. The quantity of
liquor will be about 3qts. ; put this over the fire in an
iron saucepan, and let it boil gently till scum ceases to
rise, then add loz. each of long pepper and cloves, and 2oz.
each of allspice and bruised ginger. Let the ketchup
simmer for thirty minutes, then take it from the fire
and let it cool. Bottle it then, and divide the spices
equally among the bottles. Fill the bottles with the
ketchup, cork them well, and seal. Keep them in a cool
dry place for twelve months, and the ketchup will then
be fit for use.
(7) Scrape out all the white part of three or four
hundred green Walnuts, bruise them in a large mortar to
extract the juice, which strain through a cloth. Let the
juice stand for twenty-four hours, then strain it again,
measure, and for each breakfast-cupful allow 4 breakfast-
cupful of vinegar, Jib. of anchovies, half a clove of garlic,
a shallot, half a small onion, and a small quantity of horse-
Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
757
Walnuts — continued.
radish. Boil the whole together for two hours, then strain
it through a fine hair sieve. For every quart of this
liquor, mix with it 1 pint of port wine, 1 teacupful of soy,
and Joz. each of mace, cloves, nutmeg, and whole black
pepper. Boil the ketchup for another half-hour, then pour
it into a large bowl and let it get cold. When ready,
pour the ketchup into bottles, with an equal division of
the spices in each bottle ; cork tightly, and stow them
away in a dry store-cupboard.
(8) Add to JgalL of Walnut pickle 1J pints of port
wine and Jib. of anchovies ; let all boil together till
reduced to one-third. Strain, put it into small bottles,
and cork them well.
Walnut Pickle. — Put a quantity of the green rinds or
outer shells of ripe Walnuts into a tub that has a tap,
sprinkle them with water, and prop the tub up on the
side opposite to the tap. Put a vessel under the tap to
receive the liquor which will soon begin to drip from the
tap. When a sufficient quantity has dripped through,
add to 1 gal. of it a stick of horseradish, a bunch of
sweet herbs, a couple of bay-leaves, a good-sized onion,
Joz. each of bruised ginger, allspice, and black pepper,
and 2 heaped table-spoonfuls of salt. Put it over the
fire, and let it simmer for twenty minutes ; strain, and
let it stand till cold. Then stir it up and put it into
bottles, placing an equal quantity of the spices that
were boiled in it into each bottle, and corking them
well.
Walnut Sauce. — Mix 1 table-spoonful of flour in J pint of
cold water, pour it into a saucepan, and stir it over the
fire until boiling ; put in a lump of butter, stir till the
butter has dissolved, then squeeze in a little lemon-juice.
Chop some pickled Walnuts, put them in the sauce, let
them simmer all together for a few minutes, then serve.
Walnut Vinegar. — Prepare some brine strong enough to
float an egg, then put some green Walnut-shells in it and
let them soak for fourteen days. At the end of that time
drain the shells and put them in the sun for nine days.
Place the shells in a large stone jar, cover them well with
boiling vinegar, and leave for a week. Drain the vinegar
off the shells, boil it up again, and pour it over the
shells. Keep the jar closely covered till ready to use the
vinegar.
When the Walnuts are ripe, which will be about Sep-
tember or October, they are gathered by beating the trees
with long poles. Before serving they should be freshly
peeled and then thoroughly scrubbed ; the practice
of leaving them to soak for any length of time, so as to
remove the green shell easier, is very apt to injure the
kernels, and render them discoloured and bitter.
Sugared Walnuts. — Take off the skins of about three dozen
Walnuts, separate them into halves, and mask them with
an icing made of 4oz. of sugar and an egg. Place them
on a sheet of thick paper, put them into a slack oven,
and bake until of a light brown colour. Take them out,
remove them from the paper when cold, and they are
ready for use. The Walnuts, after being skinned and
divided into halves, should be dried at the oven door.
Serve them piled on a glass dish (see Fig. 1030). A delicious
sweetmeat is made by dipping the kernels in thick
chocolate and icing.
W alnuts — continued.
Walnut Cake. — (1) Large. — Warm Jib. of butter and beat
together with ill), of caster sugar till creamy ; then sift in
Jib. of Vienna flour in which has been mixed 1 teaspoonful
of baking-powder and 1 pinch of salt. Add Jib. of peeled
and chopped Walnuts, and flavour with 1 teaspoonful of
vanilla essence. Whip the whites of eight eggs to a stiff
froth, and stir them into the above mixture. Butter a
cake-tin, pour in the mixture, and bake for an hour in a
moderate oven. When cooked, turn the cake out of the
tin, and leave it till cold.
(2) Rub Jib. of butter into lib. of flour, and then add
Jib. of sugar, 1 saltspoonful of ground mace, and 1 teaspoon-
ful of cream of tartar. Mix J teaspoonful of bicarbonate
of soda with 2 table-spoonfuls of Hour and 1 breakfast-
cupful of finely-chopped Walnuts. Work both mixtures
together, with 1 teacupful of milk, the yolks of three eggs,
and lastly add the whites which have been beaten stiff.
Put the cake when made into a buttered tin, and place
a layer of unbroken peeled halves of English Walnuts
over the top. Bake in a moderate oven for forty or fifty
minutes.
(3) Small. — Put fifty shelled but not skinned Walnuts
into a mortar, pound them well, then sift them through a
fine hair sieve. Beat separately the yolks and whites
of five eggs, mix 6oz. of caster sugar with the beaten
yolks, also the pounded Walnuts, the grated rind and
juice of one lemon, then mix in lightly the beaten whites of
the eggs. When all the ingredients are well mixed, butter
a shallow cake-tin, pour the mixture into it, and bake in
a moderate oven. When the cake is cooked, it should be
turned out of the tin and left until cold. Cut the cake
into diamond or square-shaped pieces, and keep them in
biscuit-tins.
Walnut Candy. — Crack the Walnuts and shell them care-
fully. Take 1J pints of the kernels and chop or pound
them. Mix f teacupful of vinegar and 1J teaspoonfuls
of gelatine dissolved in a little hot water with 1 Jib.
of brown sugar, set it over a moderate fire, and cook till
quite stiff. Pour a thin layer of this syrup into buttered
tins, add then the chopped or pounded Walnuts, spreading
them evenly, pour over the rest of the syrup, and let the
candy stand till cold ; then cut it into squares.
Walnut Cream Ice. — (1) Blanch and skin Jib. of Walnut
kernels, put them in a mortar with a scant table-spoon-
ful of orange-flower water, and pound until quite smooth,
adding gradually J teacupful of milk. Turn the mixture
on to a wire sieve and mb it through with a wooden
spoon, having a basin underneath to catch it. Mix
| breakfast-cupful of milk with the Walnuts, and Jib.
of caster sugar. Stir well, add 1J breakfast- cupfuls of
thick cream, turn the mixture into a freezer, and work it
well. When frozen, pile the cream on a glass dish or in
small glasses, and serve.
(2) Crack and peel sufficient nuts to make 12oz. of pulp,
those just beginning to ripen should be used ; pound them
in a mortar together with 1 table-spoonful of orange-
flower water and 1 teacupful of milk. When well
pounded, stir in 1 breakfast-cupful of milk and pass it
through a fine hair sieve. Pour the pulp into the freezer,
add 12oz. of caster sugar, and work it till stiff ; then mix
in gradually two whites of Italian meringue and 1 pint
of thick cream. Turn the cream into a mould, cover, and
pack it in pounded ice. When frozen, dip the mould in
tepid water, wipe it, turn the cream out on to a fancy
dish, and serve.
Walnut -and- Jam Biscuit. — Pound fifty Walnuts in their
skins, then pass them through a fine wire sieve. Slightly
warm Jib. of butter and beat it until creamy together
with Jib. of caster sugar, then beat in the yolks of two
eggs and one whole one, and 1 wineglassful of rum.
Put Jib. of flour into a basin, and add the beaten mix-
ture, stirring it till quite smooth. If too thin, more
flour may be added to the paste, but it should not be too
stiff. Butter a shallow baking-tin, spread the paste over
it, bake in a moderate oven, and when cooked spread a
layer of any kind of jam over it ; then put it in the oven
again for six or seven minutes. Beat the whites of two
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces , <Scc., referred to, see under their special heads
758
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Walnuts — continued.
eggs, 2 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar, and a small quantity
of powdered cinnamon to a stiff froth, then mix with them the
powdered Walnuts. Spread the Walnut mixture over the
top of the cake, and leave it in the oven until lightly
browned. When cooked, leave the cake until cold ; then
cut it into squares or diamond -shaped pieces, and pack
them away in biscuit-tins, putting a sheet of white paper
between each layer. They Mill keep for some time.
Walnuts Prepared for Dessert. — Crack the upper half of
the shells of the required quantity of Walnuts, and
remove them carefully without damaging the kernel. Dip
the exposed half of the nut into boiling water to
facilitate peeling off the skin. Put each nut as soon as
peeled in slightly acidulated and salted cold -water. When
ready to serve, drain the nuts on a cloth. For dishing
the nuts a paste-hoard stand should he made, with raised
graduated tiers, and covered with green paper. Arrange
the Walnuts on this (see Fig. 1031), using moss for the
purpose of keeping the Walnuts in position.
Walnut Ratafia. — Procure sixty young Walnuts with soft
shells, prick them, put them in a jar with fifteen grains
each of cinnamon, mace, and cloves, pour in 2qts. of
brandy, and let them macerate for two months. Press the
Walnuts to obtain all the liquor, which strain through a
fine hair sieve; stir lib. of loaf sugar in it, and bottle.
The ratafia will keep for several months.
Walnut Salad. — (1) Break the shells of some Walnuts, take
the kernels out carefully, blanch them to remove the
skins, put them on a dish, squeeze the juice of one or
two lemons over them, dust with salt and pepper, and
let them macerate for three hours, turning them about
occasionally. At the end of that time they will be ready
for serving and will make an excellent dish. If the juice
of some unripe grapes can be obtained, it will be prefer-
able to the lemon-juice.
(2) Crack the shells of about two dozen Walnuts, pick
out the kernels, peel, put them in a basin, and soak
them for two or three hours in lemon-juice. Wash and
drain some watercress, chop it coarsely, and put it in a
salad-bowl. Drain the Walnuts, put them in with the
watercress, pour a plain salad dressing over them, and
serve.
Walnut Sandwiches. — Cut off very thin slices of home-made
bread (trimming off the crust), lightly butter them, and
upon each slice lay the thinnest possible slice of Gruyfere
cheese. Have ready peeled as many fresh Walnuts as
will cover half of the slices, lay them upon the cheese,
sprinkle a very little salt over them, cover with another
thin shaving of cheese and more very thin buttered bread,
press the slices of bread close together to hold the nuts
in place, and serve the sandwiches with sherry wine ; or
they may be served with green salad, with plain salad
dressing. These are an excellent after dinner relish.
Walnut-leaves. — There is nothing of the Walnut-
tree that need be wasted, for even the leaves may be used
to make the following :
Walnuts — continued.
Walnut Ketchup. — Put into a 3gall. jar lib. of salt, |lb.
of powdered ginger, 3 handfuls of sliced horseradish
roots, 1 handful of garlic, six pods of braised red pepper,
and loz. of powdered cloves. Gather the young leaves
from the Walnut, chop them fine, put them in the jar
with 3galls. 'of boiling vinegar, cover the jar tightly, and
place it in the sun for fourteen days. Then strain the
liquor and bottle it, keeping it thditly corked till required
for use.
Walnut Mead. — Boil 141b. of honey in 4galls. of water
for tliree-quarters-of -an-hour ; put about eight dozen
Walnut leaves in a large pan, pour the boiling liquor
over them, and let it stand all night. On the following
day strain the liquor off the leaves, and mix with it 1
breakfast-cupful of ale yeast. Let it work for two or
three days, then pour it into a cask and fix the bung
down tightly. In two months’ time, draw the mead off
into bottles, and cork them.
Walnut Wine. — Put 5 galls, of water in a pan with 5lb.
of coarse honey and 101b. of brown sugar; boil it for
half an-hour, and keep well skimmed. Put a large bunch
of Walnut-leaves into a tub, and pour the above liquor
over them. Let them stand until the following morning,
when take out the leaves, squeezing them well to extract
all the juice. Put 1 teacupful of yeast into the liquor, and
let it work for seven days, stirring it thoroughly two or
three times each day. Pour the wine into a cask, close
the bung down firmly, and let it stand for six months.
Afterwards bottle the wine.
WARMING.— This term is so exceedingly indefinite
that cooks would do well to expunge it from their
vocabulary, excepting as applied to plates and dishes—
which are often warmed more than is required — spoons,
and such -like. Foods that are to be served hot should not
be described as warm, nor should “ to warm ” be a suffi-
cient description of the mode of cooking those foods that
are to be served hot. To “ warm up ” is therefore not a
genuine cookery phrase, and to “ warm through ” is open
to the same objection. In spite of that, however, they
will be used. '
WARREN’S COOKING-POT AND CURRY-
PAN. — These vessels (see Fig. 1032), invented and patented
by Captain F. P. Warren, R.N., deserve special notices.
They are designed somewhat on the principle of the
bain-marie, steamer, and braising-pan combined. The
Fig. 1032. Warren's Cooking-pot (Adams and Son).
sectional drawing (see Fig. 1033) shows that the
pot consists of a large outside vessel, which contains a
certain quantity of water. Into the rim of this fits an
inner vessel or chamber (b), so fashioned that considerable
space (a) is left all round the bottom and sides between
it and the outer case. Over the inner chamber again is
fitted a steamer (c) for cooking vegetables, and receiving
its steam through pipes so arranged that no steam what-
ever escapes into the inner chamber (b). The lid is made
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
759
Warren’s Cooking-pot and Curry-pan — continued.
double to prevent the radiation of beat. The following
are tlie directions given for using the “ pot ” :
Water should be put in the saucepan or pot high
enough to barely touch the bottom of the enclosed
pot (b). The meat to be cooked must be placed without
water in the pot (b), and the cover carefully adjusted, and
Fig. 1033. Section of Warren’s Cooking-pot (Aclams and Son).
a steam pipe inserted in a tube provided for the purpose.
If vegetables are to be steamed as well as meat cooked in
B, then a tube must be inserted in b to convey the steam into
c. After bringing the water to the boil, the saucepan must
be drawn to the side of the fire, near enough to keep it
boiling.
Sir Henry Thompson, in “ Food and Feeding,” says of
the Cooking-pot that “ It is constructed on the plan of the
bain-marie, but is associated with a steam chamber on the
top, to be used or not, as required. This latter may be
used for the cooking of vegetables, fish, and other foods,
thus utilising the steam formed by the boiling water
contained in the larger outside vessel, which heats the
inner one. But the inner is used not only for stewing and
boiling purposes, but also as a dry-cooker ; that is to say,
a fowl or a portion of meat being placed therein can be
slowly cooked without water by a process occupying
about twice or three times as long as that employed for
ordinary boiling or roasting. In this case the flesh
furnishes a quantity of liquid, slowly disengaged by low
temperature, rising as vapour at first, and becoming
condensed with its own natural juices into a broth or
gravy, in which, at the conclusion of the process, the
flesh is found partially or wholly immersed. On the top
of this floats more or less fat in a melted state, and this
can be removed in the usual manner. No loss whatever
takes place by this method. All the albumen, extrac-
tives, and juices of the flesh, will be found in the inner
saucepan when the process is completed.”
Under ordinary modes of cooking, meat has been com-
puted to lose by roasting one-third of the original weight,
or 5Joz. in the lb. ; by boiling, 4foz. in the lb. ;
and by baking, 3jjoz. in the lb. By the use of Warren’s
Cooking-pot all waste is prevented. “ Thus,” continues
Sir Henry Thompson, “a most admirable and tender
Irish stew may be made by placing, say about 41b. of
neck of mutton, cut chiefly from the lower half of it
(best end) in the usual way, with most of the fat removed,
a little onion sliced, adding no liquid whatever, only a
a little black pepper and salt to taste. The outside pot
should contain sufficient water to form a shallow bath for
the inner pot which contains the meat ; the water should be
boiling at the commencement of the pi’ocess, and for about
a-quarter-of-an-hour afterwards, to antagonise the effect
of the cold meat introduced. Then the pot should be
removed to the corner of the fire, or over a gas-ring, so as
to simmer, that is to maintain the water a few degrees
below boiling-point. At the end of five or six hours or so
Warren’s Cooking-pot and Curry-pan — continued.
the meat will be found perfectly tender, delicately cooked,
full of flavour, and amply supplied with its own excellent
gravy. When the melted fat has been
removed, the potatoes, which have
been partially cooked in the upper
chamber or steamer, or in some other
vessel separately, should be added to
the meat in the inner chamber for
about half-an-hour and served in the
usual manner.”
Warren’s Curry-pan (see Fig.
1034) has already been described under
the heading of Curry. It works upon the same principle
as the Cooking-pot.
WASHINGTON BISCUITS. — See Biscuits.
WASHINGTON CAKE.— See Cakes.
WASHINGTON PIE.— See Pies.
WASSAIL. — This term originated from the Anglo-
Saxon wes Ml, signifying literally “ be in health.” As
certain times of the year are set apart for merry-making
and drinking healths, so the word Wassail came to mean
a kind of debauchery, but in modern times the term
has almost disappeared. In some parts of England
the following quatrain was at one time exceedingly
popular :
Wassail ! Wassail ! all over the town,
Our toast it is white, our ale it is brown ;
Our bowl is made of a maplin-tree,
We be good fellows all ; 1 drink to thee.
Pepys, in his gossiping diary, alludes to Wassail thus:
“ On the 4tli of January, 1667, Mrs. Pepys had company
to dinner, and at night to sup, and then to cards, and last
of all to have a flagon of ale and apples, drunk out of a
wood cup, as a Christmas draught, which made all
merry.” From the foregoing it is evident that the
Wassail-bowl of our forefathers consisted essentially of a
beverage made of ale, flavoured with spices, sweetened
with sugar, and in which there floated about pieces of
toast, and thin slices of apple. A very good modern
Wassail-bowl may be made as follows:
Put ilb. of loaf sugar in a large bowl, grate a nutmeg
over it, and dust over 1 teaspoonful of powdered ginger ;
pour over this 1 pint of hot beer, i pint of sherry, and 5
pints of cold beer ; stir this thoroughly, put a cover
over the bowl, and let it stand for two or three hours.
Cut two or three thin slices of bread, toast them brown,
cut them into pieces, and put them in the bowl. A pint
of cider may be used instead of the wine ; and some
roasted apples may also be cut into slices and put in
the bowl, or a few slices of lemon.
WASTE. — There should be no such thing as Waste in
a well-conducted kitchen. The term is often misapplied
to the refuse that results from the preparation of vege-
tables and other things for cooking. But the term
“ kitchen Waste ” is also oftentimes more correctly applied
than intended by the cook who uses it, that is, if the
legitimate meaning is to be accepted of anything spoiled,
destroyed, or thrown away. Waste is the outcome of
extravagance, hence it is advisable for those in authority
to carefully regulate the foods supplied for kitchen
use, and to calculate the return. Kitchen-cloths are
often objects of indiscriminate use. Jack-towels and
dresser-cloths, tea-cloths and dusters, pudding-cloths
and window-rags, are frequently misappropriated,
leading to Waste. Remnants of food and dripping
are invariably wasted by an untidy servant. Scraps
of meat, bones, and shanks can be put in the stock-
pot, which should be found in all kitchens. Some-
thing may be added to the stock-pot daily, and this
Fig. 1034. Warren’s
Curry-pan
(Adams and Son).
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
760
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
W aste — continued.
prevents, by using up, accumulations that might other-
wise be troublesome and offensive.
Small quantities of cold vegetables, carrots, potatoes,
turnips, cauliflower, spinach, and brussels sprouts are useful
for thickening and flavouring plain soups, and cold cabbage
and potatoes can be fried for the kitchen dinner.
Dripping, melted down and put into jars, keeps well and is
most useful. The fat skimmed off cold broth is useful for
adding to vegetables when mashed, and for other purposes.
Paper, string, and wooden skewers are handy at any time ;
but it must not be forgotten that heaps of grocer’s and
other papers are often the cause of cockroaches swarming
in the kitchen.
When there is no use at home for so-called “ kitchen
Waste,” it should be kept carefully sorted, and either
sold or given away.
WATER (Fr. Eau; Ger. Wasser; Ital. Acqua; Sp.
Agua). — The true constitution of Water was not discovered
until about the year 1781, when Cavendish and James
Watt, independently and nearly simultaneously, showed
it to be a compound of hydrogen and oxygen. Five years,
however, before this time (1776), says Cooley, the cele-
brated Macquer, assisted by Sigaud de la Fond, obtained
pure Water by the combustion of hydrogen in the air. It
has since been satisfactorily demonstrated that hydrogen
and oxygen exist in Water in the proportion of 1 to 8
by weight, or 2 to 1 by volume One cubic inch of
perfectly pure Water at G2deg. Fahr., and 30in. of
the barometer, weighs 252‘458gr. ; by which it will be
seen that it is 770 times heavier than atmospheric air.
Water evaporates at all temperatures; but at 212deg.,
under ordinary circumstances, this takes place so rapidly
that it boils, and is converted into vapour (steam), whose
bulk is nearly 1700 times greater than that of Water.
Every cook knows that very much of the success
of his undertakings in the
process of boiling depends
upon the quality of Water
used. When available, it is at
all times advisable to use soft,
or rain Water; but as this
is not always obtainable, the
cook has to put up with hard
Water from the pump, spring,
or well ; it is found advis-
able occasionally to soften
this Water by putting into it
a small piece of soda. As a
rule the Water supply to the
kitchen is not under the con-
trol of the cook ; when there
is a choice, the cook will be
careful to select that which is
purest and best.
The steam from Water that is none too pure, or is salt, or
otherwise impregnated, when condensed is comparatively
pure, although lacking the briskness of Water that has not
been boiled. An automatic Water-condenser invented by
Bracher (see Fig. 1035) has been much commended for
general purposes.
WATER, AERATED.— See Aerated Water.
Fig. 1035. Water-condenser.
WATERCRESSES.— See Cresses.
WATER GRUEL.— See Gruel.
WATER ICES.— See Ices.
WATER SOUCHET. — There are so many modes of
spelling this word that it is almost impossible to say which
should have the preference as being more correct than
others. By some authorities it is spelt Souchy ; by
others, Zootje. In the French language it is invariably
Souchet, and as we are indebted to French cooks for
Water Soucliet — continued.
some of the best methods of preparing this dish, we
prefer to adopt their spelling. The term is applied to
the method of cooking small river fish, or large fish cut
into pieces, by boiling them in water or court bouillon,
with chopped parsley or sliced parsley-root. Cooked in
this way the fish are eaten with the liquor, accompanied
by brown bread-and-butter. Some good receipts for this
will be found Tinder different headings, such as
Flounders, Perch, &c.
WEDDINGS AND WEDDING-BRE AKFASTS.
— The custom of regaling a party of friends invited
to the celebration of a marriage by providing an
elaborate banquet has prevailed from time immemorial.
It is specially mentioned m the Scriptures, when Christ
turned the water into wine, and upon several other occa-
sions ; and there is every reason to believe that it has
maintained its high favour from the earliest records of
civilisation, until it has come to be regarded as an official
part of the ceremony. In every country of the world —
civilised or savage — where any soi-t of nuptial form is
practised, it is certain to be made the excuse for luxurious
eating and drinking, that being regarded by many per-
sons as the summum bonum of temporary rejoicing,
especially when the happiness of others is chiefly concerned.
The parents of the bride take their parting view of the
daughter in the presence of friends, and whilst rejoicing
at her prospects of future happiness, unselfishly invite
their friends to rejoice with them. The bride and bride-
groom submit to this feasting with as good grace as
possible, and perform their part in it to the best of their
ability. In some instances it is probable that both of
those most deeply concerned in the events of the day
would rather avoid the nuptial feast, and bid their friends
good-bye at the church door. That such an innovation is
a consummation devoutly to be desired by the bride and
bridegroom may be taken for granted, and with the
extension of time for performing marriage ceremonies
granted by Act of Parliament, the first blow was struck
at the old-fashioned Wedding-breakfast. The term
“breakfast” itself becomes an anomaly when the feast
is held at say three or four o’clock in the afternoon.
The term, however, is likely to continue, seeing that
wedding-luncheon, wedding-dinner, and wedding-feast are
rather too formal and severe. Wedding-breakfast it
will always remain, even though it be not served until
the long hours of night.
The only method of overcoming the difficulty is the
present very usual plan of altering the feast and its mode
of service, letting it assume rather the form of general
light refreshment, served as guests choose to partake of
it at an afternoon reception held by the bride’s parents.
A ball or dance-party in the evening is often added.
We give a coloured plate representing a very high-
class Wedding-breakfast. The cloth is dressed with
wreaths and designs in violets and orange-flowers, and
the sides of the table are covered with a kind of
“ over-skirt,” which is fastened to the edge of the table,
the join being concealed by a line of flowers. This over-
skirt is then looped up gracefully with trails or bunches
of appropriate flowers. In the centre of the table stands
the cake, and opposite to this it is customary to seat the
bride and bridegroom. Customs of position differ, but
that named is the most convenient for all purposes. Now
comes the question of provisions.
Sweets and fruits (with flowers) should be set upon the
table in profusion ; they are sure to find favour.
Wines are best represented by champagne, hock,
Moselle, Madeira, sherry, and claret, and in summer-time
the attendants may serve some sort of sweet cooling cup,
if the feast is to be protracted.
The following dishes will be found suitable for Wed-
ding-breakfasts, the choice and selection depending upon
seasons and circumstances, which might be too numerous
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Jcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
761
Weddings and Wedding-breakfasts — continued.
to mention. All sorts of mayonnaise, especially of
salmon, lobster, and crayfish, or prawns ; aspics of most
kinds, galantines, pates, and salads. Cold fowl, cold
lamb, and other meats requiring skill in carving, are best
omitted, unless previously boned and stuffed. Bouchees,
savoury tourtes, and fancy cheeses. Bread and butter
plentifully distributed round the table. In cold weather
a plate of consomme prepares the way comfortably for
the cold viands, some of which, such as croquettes,
rissoles, agnelotti, patties, and others, may be served hot
if convenient to the available service of tbe house. It is,
however, better far to have all cold and in place ready for
action than to risk delays caused by the irregular service
of hot dishes.
Sweets find innumerable representations — ices, jellies,
and creams, custards with fruit tarts, trifles, cakes and
French gateaux, compotes of fruits, meringues, tartlets,
sweet biscuits ; and if the occasion is convenient, a cro-
quenbouche or sultane may perfect the display.
A few small ornamental china or glass dishes contain-
ing candied fruits, or other artistic sweetmeats, add to
the attractiveness of the table, and true-lovers’ knots in
candied fruit-pastes are apt to engender an occasional
ebullition of merriment. Coffee should be served after all.
It is quite obvious that the service of the Wedding-
breakfast depends entirely upon the facilities at com-
mand. When the great change that is pending includes
the abolition of the feast, then a reform will have been
brought about that is not only imminent since the ex-
tension of hours for marrying, but badly wanted. See
also Bride Cakes.
WEDDING CAKES.— See Bride Cakes.
WEEVEBi {Fr. Yive). — A sea fish of the genus
Trachinus, having a number of sharp spines along the
back (see Fig. 1036), which cause painful wounds when
they pierce the skin- There are two kinds caught along
Fig. 1036. Weever.
our coasts, one being somewhat larger than the other.
Common names for them are Stingbull, Gowdie, and
Seacat. They may be cooked as follow :
Baked Weevers. — Clean eight large Weevers, and cut off
their fins ; coat the inside of a baking-dish with a thick
layer of butter, lay the fish in, and season with salt and
pepper. Finely chop an equal quantity of mushrooms,
shallots, and parsley ; put a lump of butter in a saucepan
with 1 table-spoonful of hour, stir it over the fire for a
few minutes, then put in the chopped mushrooms, Ac.,
and fry them for a few minutes. Pour J pint' each of
white wine and stock in the saucepan, stir it over a
slow fire, anti let it boil for twenty minutes. Pour the
sauce over the fish, cover with grated breadcrumb, put a
few small pieces of butter on the top, and bake for
twenty minutes. When cooked, serve the fish.
Weevers a la Maitre d'Hotel —Clean the required
number of fish and cut off their heads, tails, and fins.
Make some incisions down the sides of the fish, put them
in a deep dish, sprinkle some chopped parsley and salt
over, baste them with olive oil, and let them soak for
two hours. Put the fish on a gridiron, and broil over a
clear fire, turning them to do both sides equally. When
cooked, put the Weevers on a hot dish, cover with maitre-
d’hotel sauce, and serve.
Weevers a la Normande. — Clean, scrape, and wash some
W eevers, taking care not to prick the fingers with the
Weever — continued.
fins, as they are poisonous. Remove the heads and tails,
and lard the fish with fillets of anchovy and eel. Put a
few slices of carrot and onion in a saucepan with a bunch
of thyme, parsley, and laurel-leaves, and three or four
cloves. Put in the Weevers, cover them with white wine,
and boil gently till cooked. When cooked, take the fish
out with a slice, and put them on a hot dish. Strain
the cooking-liquor through a fine hair sieve, and return it to
the saucepan; work a pat of butter with a table -spoonful
of flour, mix it in the sauce, and stir it over the fire for
a few minutes to cook the flour. Pour the sauce over
the Weevers, squeeze a small quantity of lemon-juice over,
and serve.
WEEVILS. — Small insects of the beetle tribe, which
bore holes in biscuits and other foods in which to deposit
their eggs. A few seconds in the hot oven will destroy
the young insects, and exposing the foods to draughts of
cold air, will generally keep them at bay.
WEIGHTS and MEASURES.— A very practical
writer on kitchen management observes : “ I would
mention the extreme importance of including amongst
household requisites a pair of scales and a set of weights.
There is no check so effectual against short weight as
the practice of weighing. With butchers’ meat this is
particularly necessary, joints often being unaccountably
changed, from one being so like another except in weight.
Besides this, it is almost impossible to cook meat ac-
curately unless it be previously weighed and timed. A
pair of scales and set of weights can be bought, large
enough for all domestic purposes, for twelve or fourteen
shillings; and I have no hesitation in saying that they will
defray their cost within the first twelve months’ use.”
Such a recommendation is not to lie despised, even
though we have the word of the artistic chef that
weighing and measuring are almost unknown amongst
high-class cooks, every ingredient being added according
to the instinctive judgment of the operator. Amongst
amateur cooks and beginners weighing and measuring
are regarded with considerable respect, for without due
care and caution in apportioning the quantities, the fear
exists that the preparation may not be a success.
Throughout this Encyclopaedia the greatest care has
been taken to express exactly the quantities that are
to be used, often under considerable disadvantages, the
cooks supplying the receipts not having, in some cases,
specified very exactly the proportions ; the expressions
“take a little” and “add a fair amount,” &c., so
frequently used by them, being so indefinite as to lead
to much confusion. Again, the custom that pre-
vails amongst cooks of measuring ingredients with
spoons, cups, and glasses, or by comparative sizes, such
as that of an egg, nut, or bean, and by pinches,
renders it necessary that there should be some under-
standing as to what quantities these measurements re-
present. The following Tables of Equivalents have
been arranged, based upon the ascertained average sizes
and capacity of those measures in general use ; and by
these standards the proportions given in the receipts
throughout this Encyclopaedia are regulated.
Liquids.
The figures given hereunder apply to the measure-
ment of water and fluids of a similar density, such as
vinegar, milk, wine, and lemon- juice* Syrups, oils, and
cream, weigh heavier than water, and spirits a trifle less.
2 saltspoonfulsf = 1 teaspoonful (1 fluid
drachm, or 30 drops).
2 teaspoonfuls = 1 dessert-spoonful (2 fluid
drachms).
2 dessert spoonfuls = 1 table-spoonful (4 fluid
ounce).
* The juice of one lemon = about 1 table-spoonful,
t A pinch of cayenne pepper=about I saltspoonful ; a pinch of
salt is taken up in all four fingers and thumb=about 1 table-
spoonful, or loz.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fc c., referred, to, see under their special heads
762
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Weights and Measures — continued.
2 table-spoonfuls = 1 gravy-spoonful (1 sherry
wineglassful, or 1 fluid
ounce).
2 Dort wineglassfuls* = 1 teacupful (1 gill, 1 qrtm.,
or 5 fluid ounces).
2 teacupfuls = 1 breakfast-cupful (1 tum-
blerful, £ pint, or 10
fluid ounces).
2 breakfast- cupfuls = ] pint (20 fluid ounces, or 1
fluid poundf).
2 pints = 1 quart.
4 quarts = 1 gallon.
* 2 port wineglassfuls = 3 sherry wineglassfuls.
+ 1 fluid pound of 20 fluid ounces — lib. of 16oz. solid measure.
Solids.
Measurements of capacity must necessarily vary
considerably, as regards weight, with different mate-
rials ; for example, the weight of a teacupful of
breadcrumbs is less than that of a teacupful of moist
sugar. To provide for this discrepancy, certain typical
ingredients are given hereunder by which, with judgment,
a very accurate apportionment can be made.
A Breakfast-cupful of
Breadcrumbs (pressed in) weighs about 4oz.
Butter* or Lard (melted, or pressed
down) ,, 7oz.
Currants or Sultanas (heaped) ,, 6oz.
Flour, Cornflour, Arrowroot, or other
floury starches (level) ,, 4oz.
Flour, Cornflour, Arrowroot, or othei
floury starches (heaped) ,, 6oz.
Baisins (stoned and pressed in) ,, 8oz.
Rice (heaped) ,, 7oz.
Sago, Tapioca, Semolina, &c. (heaped) ,, 4oz.
Suet, chopped very fine (heaped) ,, 4oz.
Sugar, moist or caster (heaped) ,, Soz.
* A “pat” of butter weighs loz.
Average Weights.
It must be borne in mind that these refer to medium sizes only.
10 Eggs
25 Eggs (yolks only) ...
20 Eggs (whites only) *
5 or 6 Apples
3 or 4 Carrots (old) ...
15 to 20 Carrots (new)
6 to 8 Onions
4 to 6 Potatoes (old)
weigh about lib.
„ lib.
„ lib.
„ lib.
,, lib.
,, lib.
„ lib.
„ 11b.
* This allows for some waste in separating yolks from whites. The
white constitutes more than half the egg.
When Scales and Weights are available it is advisable
to weigh all the ingredients used according to trades-
men’s avoirdupois weights.
27 3 grains = ldr.
16 drachms -=loz.
16 ounces = 1 lb.
28 pounds = 1 quarter
4 quarters = 1 hundredweight (cwt.)
20 hundredweight = 1 ton.
The foregoing are the weights in general use, and
should therefore be adopted for weighing ingredients in
the kitchen. The following are what may be termed
Weights and Measures — continued.
In addition to the above tables, there are Measures
used in some parts of the country which are somewhat
confusing. Potatoes and fruit are sometimes sold by
the gallon. The following table explains the relative
values of these quantities and proportions, the weights
differing in almost every case :
Dry Measures of Capacity.
4 pints (f gallon) = 1 pottle.
£ gallon (z pottles; = 1 quarter peck.
1 gallon = 1 half-peck.
2 gallons = 1 peck.
4 pecks =1 half bushel.
8 pecks = 1 bushel.
Sometimes fruit is sold by the sieve, that being a
fanciful measure depending upon the size of the vessel,
usually a sieve, that the fruit is gathered into. As there
is no definite capacity ascribed for this measure, it is
often made use of for the purposes of deception.
In Scotland a table peculiar to the country is occa-
sionally used ; but since the introduction of railways the
English and Scotch peoples have become so closely asso-
ciated in commerce that they are now very seldom
used.
Scotch- Dry Measures.
4 lippies = 1 peck
4 pecks = 1 firlot.
4 firlots = 1 boll.*
2 bolls = 1 quarter.
* A boll of meal is 1401b., or 2 bolls are 1 sack ; on the Border, a boll
is equal to 6 firlots.
Concerning the measurement of liquids the following
tables are used :
Liquid Imperial Measures.
4 gills = 1 pint.
2 pints = 1 quart.
4 quarts = 1 gallon
Beer.
Firkin = 9 gallons.
Kilderkin = 18 gallons.
Barrel = 36 gallons.
Hogshead (rarely used)...= 54 gallons.
Puncheon ,, ...= 72 gallons.
Butt = 108 gallons, or 3 barrels.
Wine.
Aum of Hock or Rhenish = 30 gallons.
Hogshead of Claret = 46 gallons.
Pipe of Madeira or Cape = 92 gallons.
Pipe of Marsala = 93 gallons.
Pipe of Teneriffe = 100 gallons.
Butt of Sherry or Tent = 108 gallons.
Pipe of Port or Masdeu = 115 gallons.
Butt of Lisbon or Bucellas = 117 gallons.
In France find other parts of the Continent a system of
weighing and measuring is used based upon the decimal,
or multiple of ten, plan ; but, although very convenient in
many respects, the prospect of its adoption in this country
is very remote.
Special Weights.
Stone ofBu tellers’ Meat = 81b.
Firkin of Butter =561b.
Box of Fish, about =901b.
Barrel of Raisins = 1121b.
Barrel of Butter =4 firkins, or 2241b.
Sack of Potatoes = 1681b., or 3 bushels of 56lb. each.
Sack of Flour = 2801b., or 5 bushels of 561b. each.
Peck or Stone of Flour = 141b.
Gallon of Flour =7lb. [quartern) loaf.
Quart of Flour = 3flb., which will make a 4lb. (or
French Weights and Measures.
Measures of Capacity are calculated from the Litre,
which is about If British pints (P76077).
The 10th part of a litre = 1 Decilitre.
The 100th part of a litre = 1 Centilitre.
The 1000th part of a litre =1 Millilitre.
10 litres = 1 Decalitre.
100 litres = 1 Hectolitre.
1000 litres = 1 Kilolitre.
10,000 litres = 1 Myrialitre.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, tic., referred to, see under their special heads.
the encyclopedia of practical cookery.
763
Weights and Measures — continued.
Measures of Weight are calculated from the Gramme,
which is nearly equal to 151 British grains (I5'43235). See
Avoirdupois.
The 10th part of a gramme = 1 Decigramme.
The 100th part of a gramme = 1 Centigramme.
The 1000th part of a gramme = 1 Milligramme.
10 grammes = 1 Decagramme.
100 grammes = 1 Hectogramme.
1000 grammes = 1 Kilogramme.
10,000 gramnjes -= 1 Myriagramme.
To render the foregoing tables of special value in the
kitchen, it will be necessary to provide the cook with
scales and weights, and a set of standard measures. Of
the latter it may be generally stated that the more useful
would be a gill, half-pint, pint, and quart. In dry
measures, wooden pottle, gallon, and peck measures will
answer most purposes, and in many instances will not be
required so long as there is a pint or quart.
Sets of scales of almost any pattern may be obtained
from the scale-makers; the old-fashioned balance scale
Fig. 1037. Balance Scales (Adams and Son).
(see Fig. 1037) weighing as high as 141b., and being fitted
with a movable pan, is very useful. Others are made on
the beam principle, but are not so easy to work, and are
more liable to get out of order. A very capital kind
of scale that works on a spring, and indicates by a dial
(see Fig. 1038), with a movable pan, is very useful indeed,
occupying but little room, and requiring no adjustment
of weights. These are strongly recommended for kitchen
use, and can be purchased of most scale-makers.
WEISS-BEER. — A pale white beer brewed princi-
pally in North Germany; its alcoholic strength rarely
exceeds 2 per cent.
WELLINGTON GINGERBREAD.— See Ginger-
bread.
WELSH CHEESE CAKES.— See Cheese Cakes.
WELSH MUTTON.— See Mutton.
WELSH RABBIT or RAREBIT. — See Cheese.
WESTMORELAND SOUP.— See Soups.
WESTPHALIAN CHARLOTTE. — See Char-
lottes.
WESTPHALIAN HAMS.— See Hams.
WHEAT (Fr. Froment; Ger. Weizen; Ital. Grano;
Sp. Trigo). — A cereal grass, Triticum vulgare, produces a
grain which we know by this name. There are many
varieties, the most common being red Wheat, white
Wheat, bald Wheat (see a, Fig. 1039), bearded Wheat
(see b, Fig. 1039), summer Wheat, and winter Wheat, the
grains resembling each other so closely that only an
expert can tell one from the other. Lindley, in his
“ Treasury of Botany,” expresses himself as follows : “ The
native country and origin of Wheat has ever been a
curious subject of speculation. We think, however, that
M. Fabre’s experiments, detailed in the Journal of the
Royal Agricultural Society, afford very strong presump-
tive evidence that this cereal is derived from a wild grass
of Southern Europe and Western Asia, known to the
botanist as iEgilops. It is true that a specimen of this
genus would at first sight appear to be very different
from Wheat, but it is really not so on a minute exam-
ination of its parts, and under cultivation it soon affords
a very respectable grain; its green herbage, too, emits
the peculiar smell on being bruised which belongs to
Wheat, and we know from experiment it is subject to the
same epiphytes or attacks of ‘ blight ’ as Wheat. That
a plant very dissimilar from Wheat, in fact a .wild useless
grass, should yet in cultivation become so changed as
to afford a useful grain, is so far fortunate that we might
expect, from this amount of adaptability to circum-
stances, that it would be capable of easily affording a
large variety of sorts. Such we know to be the case, and
hence no plant is so easily adapted to variations of
climate, soil, and management as Wheat.”
Under the headings Flour and Starch, some im-
portant information will be found concerning the manu-
facture of Wheat into those two commodities. For the
purposes of making bread, Wheat stands pre-eminent, not
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
764
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wheat — continued.
merely on account of its highly nutritious character, but
because of its richness in gluten, which is essential to the
fermentation necessary to produce a light loaf.
According to Sir Humphrey Davy, Wheat contains
19 per cent, of gluten, 77 per cent, of starch, and about
4 per cent, of soluble matter.
Besides flour and starch, whole Wheat is sometimes
used in cookery ; so also is Wheat that has been ground
into a coarse meal, as the following receipts will show:
Cracked-wheat Mush (American). — Brush lightly over
the inside of a flat-bottomed, bright iron saucepan with a
paste-brush dipped in lard — it will require a very small
quantity, but a little helps to prevent the Wheat burning
— pour in 2qts. of water, and place it on the fire. When
boiling, stir in 1 breakfast-cupful of large cracked Wheat
and 1 teaspoonful of salt, stir it over the fire, and boil
it for ten minutes ; then move the saucepan to the side, and
keep the contents simmering for three hours with the lid
on. As it is not the Wheat itself that burns, but the flour
mixed up with it, it would be better to wash it in two or
three waters before boiling, as is done with rice. When
sufficiently cooked, turn the mush into a bowl, and serve
it with a jug of cream.
Cracked-wheat Porridge (American). — Brush over the
inside of a flat-bottomed saucepan with a little melted
lard. Pour in 4 pints of water, boil it up, then stir in 1
breakfast-cupful of cracked Wheat and 1 teaspoonful of
salt; stir the Wheat and boil it for a few minutes, then
push the saucepan to the side of the fire, put the lid on,
and keep the contents simmering for three hours. Turn
the porridge (when cooked) into a bowl, and serve it with
a jug of cream. The Wheat should be well washed before
being cooked to rid it well of the flour, which is generally
the cause of burning.
Wheat-flour Batter Cakes. — (1) Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of
sifted corn -meal with 1 pint of flour; mix in smoothly
two well-beaten eggs and a sufficient quantity of milk,
with a small quantity of warm water in which J teaspoon -
ful of tartaric acid has been dissolved, to make a mode-
rately stiff batter. When quite smooth stir in briskly a
heaped table-spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, but cease
stirring the moment it begins to effervesce. Spread a
sheet of fluttered paper over a baking-sheet, and drop
the batter on it in equal quantities ; bake them in a
brisk oven, and serve while hot. A short space should be
left between each cake when they are put on the baking-
sheet, as they will spread and stick together.
(2) Put into a vessel 4oz. of sifted Wheat-flour, Joz.
of powdered sugar, and 1 drachm of compressed yeast.
Break in four whole eggs, and mix well with the spatula
for three minutes. Add j pint of cold milk, and beat
well with the pastry-whisk for four minutes. Strain
through a sieve into another vessel. Place on the stove
a small griddle, greasing the surface lightly. Drop about
2oz. of the batter on to it, and bake for ten seconds ; turn it
with a cake-turner, and hake for ten seconds on the other
side. See that the cakes are a light brown colour on both
sides. Put them on a hot dish, keeping it warm on the
corner of the range, and proceed to make twelve more
with the remainder of the batter. Serve very hot with
honey or maple sugar separately.
Wheat-flour-and-Cornflour Crumpets.— Put lqt. of milk
on the fire, warm it, put in 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast, 1
teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient Wheat-flour to make
a stiff batter. Stir the batter till smooth and elastic, then
set it in a warm place to rise. On the following morn-
ing, stir in 1 teacupful of butter that has been warmed,
and 1 teacupful of yellow corn-meal ; divide the mixture
into cakes, about 2in. in diameter and Jin. in thickness.
Make a griddle hot, put the crumpets on it, and bake them
for fifteen minutes. Butter the crumpets, put them on a
hot dish, and serve while hot.
Wheat-flour Gruel. — -(1) Mix 1 saltspoonful of salt in 2 tea-
spoonfuls of flour, and stir it into a smooth thin paste with
cold water ; then mix in gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of
boiling water, turn the mixture into a saucepan, and stir it
Wheat — continued.
over the fire until cooked, which will take about five minutes.
Strain the gruel, sweeten it to taste, and if too thick
thin it with a small quantity of milk. The gruel may
be flavoured with either lemon-juice or grated nutmeg, or a
little piece of stick cinnamon may be boiled with it.
(2) Pill a small basin with flour, press it down tightly,
tie a cloth over, plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water,
and boil hard for six hours. At the end of that time,
take the basin out of the water, remove the cloth, and
leave the flour till the following day. Lift off the crust of
flour that will have formed on the top, and use the re-
mainder for making gruel. Put J pint of milk in a sauce-
pan and boil it ; mix 1 teacupful of the flour to a smoooth
paste with a little water, pour the boiling milk gradually
on to it, then return it to the, saucepan and boil for ten
minutes, stirring all the time. Sweeten and flavour the
gruel to taste, and serve it. The flour for making gruel
may be baked instead of boiled, but the former way is
the best.
Wheat-meal Biscuits. — (1) Warm jib. of butter and work it
well into ljlb. of Wheat-meal, add 2oz. of moist sugar, and
stir in a sufficient quantity of warm water, in which J tea-
spoonful of bicarbonate of soda lias been dissolved, to form
a light paste. Boll the paste out thinly, and with a round
tin cutter, about I Jin. in diameter, cut it into biscuits ;
dock them, lay them on a baking-sheet, and bake. Keep
the biscuits in tins.
(2) Rub 2oz. of butter into lib. of Wheat-meal and
2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, add 2oz. of sugar, work
this in, then add a, well-beaten egg and sufficient milk to
form a stiff paste. Roll this out to about Jin. in thick-
ness, cut it into plain biscuits, prick the tops, and bake
in a moderate oven until done. Take them out, and use
either hot or cold as desired.
Wheat-meal Cakes. — (1) Rub Jib. of butter into fib. of
Wheat-meal, then mix it to a smooth paste with some
buttermilk, in which 1 teaspoonful of salt and J teaspoon-
ful of bicarbonate of soda has been dissolved. Divide the
dough into eight or nine pieces, which mould with floured
hands into round cakes ; lay them on a baking-sheet, and
bake from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
Fig. 1040. Wheat-meal Cakes.
When cooked (see Fig. 1040) split the cakes open and
butter them thickly, put them on a hot dish, and serve.
(2) Put ljlb. of Wheat-meal in a basin with 2oz. of
butter and 1 good teaspoonful of salt, and rub together
until well mixed; then stir in smoothly sufficient milk to
make a stiff paste, and mould this into a thick round
cake, about Jin. thick. Make a griddle hot, put on the
cake, and place it over a clear fire. Move the cake con-
stantly about, and when done on one side turn it. When
cooked, split the cake open, butter it thickly, and, if liked,
spread jam between it; cut it into wedge-shaped pieces,
put them on a hot dish, and serve.
Wheat-meal Gems. —Put 2J breakfast-cupfuls of fine granu-
lated Wheat-meal into a basin with 1 saltspoonful of salt,
and stir in gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of milk and 1
breakfast-cupful of water. Beat the batter as long and as
quickly as possible. Butter some iron gem pans (see A, Fig.
1041), make them very hot, and fill them quickly with the
batter, giving it a brisk beating several times during the
filling; put them in a hot oven, and bake. Turn them out
(see B, Fig. 1041), and serve either hot or cold.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
765
Wheat — continued.
Wheat-meal Muffins. — Prepare lib. of bread dough with
Wheat-meal, and leave it to rise over night. Mix with
2 breakfast-cupfuls of the dough loz. of Wheat-meal, 1
teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, a piece of butter about
the size of an egg, slightly warmed, 2 table-spoonfuls of
milk, and one beaten egg. Work the above ingredients
together against the sides of the pan till very smooth and
elastic, then set it to rise for an hour in a warm tempera-
ture. Procure some muffin-rings, 2in. in diameter and
lin. deep, butter them, and set them in a buttered baking-
dish ; half till the rings with the batter, which should be
thin enough to settle down, yet not run under the rings.
Leave the muffins to rise for half -an -hour, then bake them
in a quick oven for ten minutes. When cooked, take the
muffins out of the rings.
Fig. 1041. Wheat-meal Gems and Pans.
Wheat-meal Scone.- — Mix well together lib. of Wheat-meal,
2oz. of butter, loz. of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of
soda, b teaspoonful of tartaric acid, and sufficient milk and
water to make a stiff paste, and form it into a round
smooth lump. Butter and slightly Hour a baking sheet
or tin, put the paste on it, flatten it down with the hand
into a round scone a little more than lin. in thickness,
score it into quarters without separating, prick over the
top with a pricker or fork, and bake in a moderately hot
oven for about twenty minutes. Take it out and serve hot.
Wheat Soup. — Pour b pint of Wheat into a saucepan with
2oz. of butter, and stir it over the fire until hot. Put a
bunch of parsley and sweet herbs in with the Wheat, pour
over lqt. of water, and season it with salt and pepper.
Let the soup boil gently at the side of the fire until the
Wheat grains are quite soft. Beat the yolks of three eggs
in a soup-tureen, and pour the soup slowly over the eggs,
stirring them at the same time ; grate a small quantity of
nutmeg over it, and serve with a plate of croutons of
fried bread or sippets of toast.
Wheat-starch Jelly. — Put 111), of loaf sugar in a saucepan
with lqt. of water, and stir it over the fire with a wooden
spoon until dissolved ; then mix in 3 table-spoonfuls of
ground Wheat-starch and stir it well. Leave the mixture
at the side of the fire for two hours, stirring it often to
keep it smooth ; it should not be too thick. At the end
of that time flavour the mixture with a few drops of
essence of rose-water or orange-flower water, and stir it
for a few minutes longer. Brush over the .interior of a
domed mould with almond oil, pour the mixture into it,
and put it in a cool place until firm. When ready to
serve, dip the mould into tepid water, wipe it, turn the
jelly on to a fancy dish, and ornament the top with fillets
of skinned almonds or pistachios.
Whole-wheat Biscuits. — (1) Put into a basin 1 breakfast-
cupful each of rye-flour and white flour, b teaspoonful each
of salt and bicarbonate of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream of
tartar, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of
melted butter ; mix all well together, then add milk
enough to make a drop batter. Bake in hot pans for
twenty to thirty minutes, and serve.
(2) Mix in the order given 1 breakfast-cupful each of
whole Wheat and white flour, 4 teaspoonful each of salt
and bicarbonate of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar,
1 table-spoonful of caster sugar, 1 teaspoonful of melted
butter, and milk enough to make a drop batter (about b
pint). If sour milk be used, omit the cream of tartar'
Bake in small round biscuit-tins for twenty or thirty
minutes until done.
WHEATEABS (Fr. Motteux). — Small European
singing birds (Saxicolo cenanthe), known in some parts as
Fallow-Chats, Stone-Chats, and White Tails. The male
is white beneath, bluish-grey above, with black wings,
and a black stripe through each eye; the tail is black
at the tip and in the middle, but white at the base and
on each side. Kettner informs us that it “ is a pleasant
little bird, which is found to be very satisfactory at the
end of the London season, while we are still waiting for
the grouse and the partridges. It winters on the shores
of the Mediterranean, but coinefe over to England to
breed in mid-March. Alighting on our southern coasts,
it spreads itself over the British Islands, even to Orkney
and Shetland. When the breeding season is over, then
is the time to catch it with advantage. This is not
only because we are disposed to give all birds their
freedom while they have families dependent on them, but
also and chiefly, it is on their return south that the
Wheatears can be caught in sufficient numbers to make
it worth while to pursue them. Towards the end of
July, old birds and the young ones, fat and plump, begin
to collect on the Sussex Downs, meaning to cross the
Channel in search of their winter homes. On St. James’s
day, the 25th of July, the shepherds of the South
Downs begin to set nooses and lay traps for them. All
the traps and nooses are ready by the 1st of August. One
shepherd has been known to catch one thousand birds
in a day. He can easily catch five hundred. And this
system of ensnaring goes on till the third week in
September, when the birds have nearly all left. Each
bird is supposed to be worth a penny to the shepherd,
at least. Southey tells the story of one of the amiable
minor poets, Hurdes, who used to let the birds out of
the traps which he found in his walks, but always left
a penny in place of each to soothe the disappointment
of the shepherds. A penny is not much to give for a
bird which has been honoured with the name of the English
ortolan. It is needless to say that in Leadenhall Market,
and in the hotels of the Sussex watering-places, the
little birds, generally sold by the dozen, are charged a
good deal more than a penny apiece. They are mightily
prized at the end of summer, when winged fowl, with
the exception of the heroes and heroines of the barn-
door, are scarce at our tables, and they are to be treated
as larks. As to the name of the bird — which is not Wheat-
ear, but Wheatears — it must be enough to say that it
has nothing to do with wheat, nor with any kind of ear,
whether of corn or of bird. In a very old cookery book —
that of La Varenne — the name of the bird is given
as Tliiastias.” The following is an excellent way of
cooking them :
Fix the Wheatears on a small bird-spit (see Fig. 1042)
without drawing, dredge them over with flour, and roast
them in front of a clear fire, basting continually with butter.
Toast a slice of bread, remove the crust, put it on a (date,
and put it under the birds while cooking. When the
birds are cooked, lay them on the toast on a hot dish,
pour some rich brown gravy over, garnish with slices of
lemons, and serve.
WHELKS (Fr. Buccins; Ger. Kinkhorner). — These
shell-fish (see Fig. 1043), in conjunction with the periwinkle,
are regarded by cooks as too contemptible to be worthy
of any special culinary treatment. In spite of this,
they form a very important item of diet amongst the
poorer classes who have a taste for the flavour of fish.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, ike., referred to, see under their special heads.
766
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Whelks — continued.
Whelks (sometimes spelt Wliilk) ( Buccinum undatum ) are
found in abundance on most coasts. A large white-
shelled kind known in the fish trade as Almond Whelks
Fig. 1043. Whelk.
are considered the best. They are sometimes, besides
being plain boiled in salted water, used as follows :
Whelk Salad. — Procure some small Whelks and boil them
for two hours, changing the water twice. When cooked,
drain and leave them till cold, then pick them out of
their shells. Put the Whelks in a deep dish, pour over
them 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and an equal
quantity of oil and vinegar, season with salt and pepper,
and let them stand for an hour. Prepare a' salad of
chopped lettuce, cress, and endive, put in the Whelks and
the dressing, strew a small quantity of chopped chives or
onions over them, and serve. Small Whelks should always
be used, as the large ones are tough and indigestible.
Whelk Soup. — Poil 2 or 3 handfuls of thoroughly washed
small Whelks in 2qts. of water until they can he
readily removed from their shells. Take two large onions
and stick them with cloves, a very small bunch of sweet
herbs, some whole black pepper, a blade of mace, and a
very hard crust, toasted brown. Strain the liquor through
a cloth, add to this Iqt. more water, and boil the whole
until it is reduced to a little more than half its original
bulk. In the meantime, take the ^helks out of their
shells, clean and mince up two or three anchovies, strain
the soup into another saucepan, and put in the Whelks
and anchovies. Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of Horn with a
little of the broth, stir in sufficient salt to taste, and boil
quickly until the Hour lias thickened the soup.
WHEY (Fr. Petit Lait; Ger. Molken; Ital. Siero;
Sp. Suero). — The serum or liquid portion of milk, after
the curd has been separated from it, generally for the
purpose of making cheese. Dr. Henry Letlieby says,
“although not highly nutritious, it still holds a little
caseine in solution, as well as the sugar and saline matter
of the milk. It is rarely used as food even by the poor,
but it is given to pigs. In Switzerland, however, it is
considered to have medicinal virtues, especially for the
cure of chronic disorders of the abdominal organs, and
the treatment, which is sometimes fashionable, goes by
the name of ‘ cure de petit lait.’ There is a popular
notion that the Whey of milk is sudorific ; hence we have
our wine Whey, cream of tartar Whey, alum Whey,
tamarind Whey, &c., when the milk has been curdled by
these several substances.”
Some special preparations of Whey will be found under
Lemons, Oranges, Vinegar, Wine, &c. Whey powder,
which is often used instead of rennet to coagulate the curds
out of milk, is made by gently evaporating Whey to dry-
ness, and then powdering it with about one-third of its
weight of caster sugar. See Cheese, Cream, Curds, and
Milk.
WHIPPED CREAM.— See Cream.
WHIPS. — See Chocolate, Cream, &c.
WHISKS and WHISKING.— To execute the
apparently simple but important culinary process of
Whisking, considerable dexterity, and tools that are
especially adapted to the purpose, are required. Under the
heading of Eggs will be found some very ingenious
machines for beating eggs, or mixing them with milk ;
Fig. 1044. Whisk for Whipping Cream.
but these are not Whisks. For whipping cream a light
Whisk may be used, such as would be represented by a
small bundle of light twigs (see Fig. 1044), or a bunch of
fine wire loops ; but for the more vigorous work required for
sponge-cakes, meringues, batters, and other heavy liquids,
a very strong Whisk is required, such as that shown in the
Fig. 1045. Whisk for Sponge-cakes, Batters, &c.
illustration (see Fig. 1045). In large wholesale confectionery
establishments, machines, consisting of stout iron rods
bent into loops, and made to move with great rapidity by
hand or steam power, are used for Whisking and mixing
sponge and other cakes ; the principle is much the same,
although the products are not so light and frothy as when
Fig. 1046. Whisking-bowl.
Whisked or whipped by hand. A round metal bowl, such
as is used for beating eggs (see Fig. 1046) is the best kind
of vessel for Whisking, and the action in every case should
be smart and vigorous, producing a foam if possible.
The term “whipping” more fully describes light Whisking,
and is adopted by Continental confectioners.
WHISKY.— This is literally described as a spirit, ob-
tained from malt or grain, or from a mixture of these.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
767
Whisky — continued.
The principal seats of their manufacture are Ireland and
Scotland. In the Encyclopasdia of Manufactures and
Raw Materials it is stated’ that “ The difference between
the Irish and Scotch varieties lies mainly in the fact
that the former is distilled in the common or so-called
‘ pot-still,’ which brings over together with the spirit
a variety of flavouring and other ingredients from the
grain, while in Scotland nothing but Coffey’s ‘ patent
still ’ is employed, the product of which is a spirit de-
prived entirely of all essential oils. The Irish distillers
claim a distinct advantage in the presence of fusel-oil
in their produce, on the ground that if kept in wood
for a certain time this oil is decomposed into a number
of volatile ethers, readily recognised by their fragrant
perfume, and by their pleasant exhilarating effects when
consumed. They assert further that the Scotch produce,
or ‘ silent spirit,’ as they agree to term it, undergoes no
change on keeping, and possesses no flavour, but only
the pungent penetrating odour peculiar to alcohol, and
that in order to convert this silent spirit into Whisky,
it has to be flavoured with different substances which
have no exhilarating effects upon the system whatever,
but are very injurious to the habitual consumer. Another
argument advanced by the Irish distiller in favour of
his own produce is that as the spirit yielded by the
patent still is absolutely flavourless, the Scotch manu-
facturer may, if he will, employ damaged grain, potatoes,
molasses, refuse, and various other waste products to
yield the silent spirit, since owing to its ‘ silence ’ there
is no possibility of detecting afterwards from what
source it has been obtained, and that not only are the
distinctive qualities of good Whisky thereby kept out
of the spirit, but that the spirit itself may also be of
an inferior character.
“ The ' Scotch distiller, on the other hand, affirms that
Irish or ‘ pot-still ’ Whisky is less wholesome than their
own produce, on account of the presence in the former
of large quantities of fusel-oil. They maintain also, that
patent-still Whisky does improve very much by keeping,
and brings a higher price in the market when old, and
they strongly repudiate the insinuation that they employ
damaged or refuse materials for the production of their
spirit. The product of the ‘ pot-still,’ as stated above,
does not contain merely alcohol and water, but also,
in intimate mixture, or in solution, other matters yielded
by the grain, and either previously existing in it or formed
during the processes of fermentation and distillation.
These are present chiefly in the form of volatile oils
and vegetable acids, and the quantity as well as their
nature depend upon the quality of the grain, and the
amount of care bestowed upon the fermentation and
other subsequent processes. The finest Dublin Whisky,
when ready, is stored in casks, at a strength of 25 per
cent, over proof. During its sojourn in the cask, the re-
actions which occur between the above substances and
the alcohol itself, lead to the gradual formation of those
fragrant volatile ethers which impart to the spirit its
characteristic perfume and flavour. It attains its full
maturity and highest excellence at an age of from three to
five years in the wood; after this period it may be
bottled and preserved for an indefinite length of time
without undergoing further change.”
Whisky is prepared in other countries besides Scotland
and Ireland. That distilled in Kentucky, in the American
county of Bourbon, from rye and Indian corn is known
as Bourbon Whisky. In Burmah and Venezuela large
quantities of Whisky are made, also in Prussia, France,
and other European countries. The Russian spirit vodka
is a species of Whisky of a very inferior character, but
fiercely alcoholic. None of these can be in any way
compared to the Whiskies produced at the Irish and
Scotch distilleries.
Genuine Whisky is prepared by first fermenting a wort
until all the sugar it contains is converted into alcohol,
Whisky — continued.
and then distilling off the alcohol by raising the liquor
to a heat sufficient to evaporate out the alcohol without
converting the water into steam.
Irish Whisky Julep. — Mix 1 wineglassful of syrup with
double the quantity of Irish Whisky, pour it into a large
glass, fill up with ice, over this arrange a few sprays of
mint and slices or rings of lemon, and serve. Drink
through straws.
Irish Whisky Smash. — -Pour 1 wineglassful of Whisky
into a half-pint glass, and mix in 1 table-spoonful of syrup;
then add a few lumps of ice, give the glass a shake, fill
up with more ice, place a couple of tlnn slices of lemon
on the top, and drink through straws.
Scotch Whisky Smash. — Mix in a small glass 1 wineglass-
ful of old Scotch Whisky with 1 table-spoonful of syrup,
fill up with ice, put a thin slice of lemon on top, and serve.
Whisky Fizz. — (1) Mix in a small glass 1 wineglassful of
Whisky and 1 teaspoonful each of lemon juice and syrup,
add a few lumps of ice, pour in a bottle of soda-water,
and drink while fizzing.
(2) Put 1 dessert spoonful of syrup into a tumbler,
squeeze in the juice of a lemon, pour in a little more than
1 wineglassful of Whisky, add a few lumps of ice, and
shake them well together for five minutes. Pour oil' the
liquor into a large glass, add 1 teaspoonful of curayoa, 2
drops of essence of almonds or orange, a small bottle
(split) of lemonade, and drink while fizzing.
(3) Put 1 wineglassful of old Whisky into a glass with
a lump of ice, pour in l pint of cider, and serve.
Whisky-and-Peppermint Nip. — Half fill a wineglass with
peppermint cordial, and fill up with Irish Whisky.
Whisky Punch. — (1) Mix in a bowl 1 wineglassful each of
lime-juice, cherry-syrup, and plain syrup, next stir in 1
gill of bay-rum, and lastly, a bottle of Scotch Whisky.
Set the bowl on the ice, let it remain until the contents
are quite cold, float slices of lemon on the top, add 1
bottle of Apollinaris water, and serve.
(2) With Soz. of loaf sugar rub off the rinds of three
lemons, pound it in a mortar, pour over 2 breakfast-
cupfuls of boiling water, stir until the sugar is dissolved,
then turn it into the punch- bowl. Now add the juice of
the three lemons, passing it through a strainer to remove
the pips, &c., let the liquor get cold, and pour in a bottle of
Scotch Wliisky. Pack the bowl in ice, let the punch get
cold, and serve.
(3) Put the thinly-peeled rind of a lemon into a basin,
cut the lemon in thin slices, removing all the white part
at the same time, and put them in with the peel. Pour
in l pint of Whisky, and let it stand for an hour or so.
Add 1 wineglassful of curacoa, 1 pint of water, sweeten
to taste, and empty in two bottles of iced soda-water.
Stir the punch till the sugar has dissolved, then serve it
in punch glasses.
Wliisky Sling. -Put in a half-pint glass 1 wineglassful of
Whisky, fill up with milk, put in a lump of ice, and
serve.
WHITEBAIT {Fr. Blancliaille ; Ger. Breitling). —
Although the correct ichthyological names in French and
Fig. 1047. English Whitebait.
German are here given, it may be as well to observe that
Whitebait is more frequently met with on the Continent
under its English name. This would lead to the belief
that Whitebait forms an exclusively English dish, and
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <Hc., referred to, see under their special heads.
768
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Whitebait — continued.
that the fish themselves are imported. In a measure this
may he accepted as a fact, for it is quite certain that
those held in the highest esteem are caught in the river
Thames between Gravesend and Blackwall.
English Whitebait (see Fig. 1047) are said to be the
young of the herring. Kettner writes, “ It was for a
long time supposed that Whitebait, which came up the
Thames as far as Blackwall, were the young of the fresh-
water herring, the shad, which also comes thus far up the
river. They were then proved to he quite distinct from
the fry of the shad. It was next insisted that they were
a distinct species of herring. It was afterwards pointed
out that Whitebait have never been found with roe, and
therefore they must be young. It is now declared that
they are the infant progeny of the common herring, with
all the manners of the parent fish, save this, that they
travel up the Thames to haunts which their ancestors, if
they were ever there, no longer seem to approve of.” The
Whitebait of Italy is said to be the young of the anchovy
and sardine. In Columbia (Canada) it is alleged to be the
young of the flying-fish. The Norwegian Whitebait
(bergylt) is mostly miniature rose-fish. The Whitebait of
Canton, in China, is a young small transparent white
fish not unlike the young of the smelt.
Before submitting Whitebait to the cook it should be
thoroughly washed in a washing-basket with a largish
mesh. It must then be picked over carefully and all
intruders taken out ; amongst these will occasionally
be found small flounders, gobies, perhaps a stray octopus,
or some kind of shell-fish, especially small river mussels.
Whitebait are at their best in July and the early
part of the month of August; they should be very
fresh, smelling quite sweet and pleasant. They can be
cooked according to any of the following receipts :
Devilled Whitebait. — Wash the fish, drain well on a
sieve, dry them in a soft cloth, and then drop them on to
a well-floured cloth, carefully rolling each little fish over
in it, so that they are all nicely and evenly floured. Put
them immediately into a frying-basket, and dip them into
extremely hot boiling lard; bold it there a very short
time, lift the basket out of tbe lard, and sprinkle the fish
with black pepper and a little salt ; some cooks dip them
again into the boiling lard for a second, take them out,
sprinkle them with cayenne pepper, and serve.
Pried Whitebait. — (1) Wash the fish, drain well on a sieve,
dry them in a soft cloth, and then drop them when
quite dry on to a well floured cloth, carefully rolling each
little fish over in it, so that they are all floured over
evenly. Put them immediately into a frying basket, dip
them into extremely hot boiling lard, hold it there till
the fish is crisp, which it will be before it browns, take
it out while still white, and serve as quickly as possible
Fig. 1048. Fried Whitebait.
on a warm napkin on a hot dish, and garnish with fried
parsley and quarters of lemon (see Fig. 1048). Serve with
them cayenne, grated lemon-peel, and thin slices of brown
bread - and bu t te r.
(•2) Wash and pick the Whitebait carefully, and dry
them lightly on a cloth. Put 1 teacupful of flour on a
sheet of paper, place the fish on it, and toss them about
till well covered. Put 31b. of lard into a stewpan and
beat it till it reaches 400deg. by tbe fryometer. Put tbe
Whitebait into a frying-basket, sift all the superfluous
flour back on the paper, and plunge the basket into the fat
for a minute. The fat must be as hot as possible not to
burn the fish. When cooked, turn the fish on to a sheet
Whitebait — continued.
of paper to drain, then put them carefully on to a folded
napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish
with points of lemon, and serve them with a dish of
brown bread-and-butter. The Whitebait should be
handled as little as possible, and served while very hot.
Whitebait Omelet a la Napolitaine. — Wash and dry on a
cloth about 41b. of Whitebait, then put them on ice,
while the following batter is being prepared. Beat seven
eggs in a basin, season them with pepper, salt, and chopped
parsley, and whisk them till well frothed. Sprinkle the
fish with salt and pepper, and mix them in the batter.
Put lib. of butter into a frying-pan, warm it, pour in the
beaten eggs and fish, stir the omelet lightly over the fire
with a fork till cooked on one side, then turn it quickly
over on to the other side, adding more butter if required,
and finish cooking it. When cooked, slip the omelet on
to a hot round dish, without folding it over, and serve.
Whitebait Salad. — Thoroughly clean the required quantity
of Whitebait, rub them over with flour, and brown them
in butter. When cooked, drain the fish and leave them
till cold. Put a border of lettuce -leaves on a dish, and on
that place groups of watercress ; chop some hard-boiled
eggs and put some between each group of watercress, then
arrange round a circle of sliced beetroot. Pile the White-
bait in tbe centre of tbe disli. Serve the salad with a
sauceboatful of mayonnaise dressing. These little fish are
very delicate, and require careful treatment in the cooking.
The best way is to put them into a wire frying-basket,
and plunge it into boiling fat ; directly they are browned,
take them out and drain them well.
Whitebait Soup. — Finely shred one onion and the white
part of a leek, put them into a stewpan with a small
quantity of butter, and fry them without allowing them to
brown. Finely shred, as for julienne, the red part of
two tender carrots, a few mushrooms, and a piece of
celery-root, put them in with the onion and leek, and
stir them over the fire till their moisture has reduced.
Pour 2qts. or 3qts. of rich broth over the vegetables, boil it
up, then move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and
let the contents simmer for half-an hour. Wash l|lb. of
Whitebait and drain them on a cloth, put them into the
soup, place the lid on the stewpan, and move it to the
farthest corner of the stove away from the fire. In six
minutes’ time, turn the soup into a tureen, and serve.
WHITE CAKE. — See Cakes.
WHITEFISH. — Another name for this fish is Silver
Salmon, to which race it is considered to belong. White-
fish are caught in great quantities in the lakes and rivers
of Scotland ; but the largest kind of all is caught in the
colder lakes of North America. They may be cooked in a
variety of ways, the following being a favourite American
receipt :
Baked Fillets of Whitefish.— Scale some large White-
fish, split them, take out the backbone, season tbe
fillets with salt and pepper, and dip them in beaten egg,
then in breadcrumbs, and again in beaten egg. Put a
lump of fresh lard in a baking-dish, make it hot, then
put in the fillets. Bake the fish in the oven for twenty
minutes, until they are lightly coloured. When cooked,
drain the grease off the fillets, place them on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve with potatoes and a
sauceboatful of parsley sauce.
WHITE POT .—See Devonshire White Pot.
WHITE PUDDINGS (Fr. Boudins Blancs; Ger.
Weiszen-Wurste).— The Continental White Puddings differ
not only from the British black puddings in the ingredients
used, but also, in some cases, in being made in long
coils (see Fig. 1049), as will be seen by the following
receipts :
(1) Chop half-a-dozen small onions into small cubes, put
them in a saucepan with a little lard, and cook them
until done. Finely chop 3oz. or 4oz. of pork- fat and the
flesh of a cold roasted fowl. Put the combined weight of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
ARTISTIC HORS
1. Atteraux.
2. Game or Poultry in Gases (Round).
3. Bouchees and Boudins.
4. Pasties and TIakioi.es.
D'CEUVRES.
5. Pear-shaped Croquettes and Artichoke-bottoms.
6. Forcemeat Cutlets and Savoury Bouchees.
7. Oyster Patties.
8. Game in Cases (Oval).
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
769
White l*udding3— continued.
the pork and fowl of breadcrumbs into a basin, and pour
over then- 1J teacupfuls of boiling milk. Strain off the
milk and add the soaked crumbs to the minced meat,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, add 1 pinch of allspice, 1
teacupb ! of cream, and the well-beaten yolks of six eggs.
Put ti. mixture into the saucepan with the onions, stir
them well, and squeeze the whole into the required quan-
tity of r;eaned skins (pig’s intestines). Put the puddings into a
saucepan of milk, set the pan on the lire, and cook the contents
slowly for twenty minutes without boiling. Let them get
quite cold, prick them all over with a needle, place them
on a grill over a clear but slow fire, and when done they
are ready for use.
Fig. 1049. Coiled White Puddings.
(2) Put the required number of skins into a basin, after
they have been thoroughly cleaned, and pour over them 1
teacupful of rose-water; let them remain in this for ten
or twelve hours, then take them out and drain. Chop
fine 8oz. of blanched almonds, mix them with double
their quantity of grated breadcrumb, and add 21b. of
minced beef-suet or marrow, lib. of well-washed currants,
a little cinnamon, half a blade of mace, six cloves, and a
quarter of a nutmeg all finely powdered, 2oz. of caster
sugar, ioz. of candied citron, and the peel of half a lemon,
both the latter cut up into small pieces. Mix these
thoroughly and stir in lqt. of cream and the yolks of six and
the whites of two eggs, slightly beaten. Put this mixture
into the skins, leaving a little room in each one to allow
for swelling, put them into a saucepan of milk-ami water
in equal proportions, set the pan on the fire, and boil the
puddings gently for twenty minutes. As they rise to the
surface, prick them well. Take them out when done, drain
on a cloth, and when cold they are ready for use.
(3) Put Alb. of breadcrumbs in a saucepan with a little
milk, and stir them over the fire till thick. Chop Alb. of
lean pork and 6oz. of pork-suet or fat, put them in a
mortar and pound them well, then mix in the panada and
pound them again. Add to the mixture two or three
boiled and finely -chopped onions and a small quantity of
bechamel sauce, season with pepper, salt, and powdered
mace, and pass it through a sieve into a basin ; work in
the whites of three eggs and f breakfast cupful of cream.
Blanch a few pistachios till swollen, then cut them into
small squares and mix them with the forcemeat. Have
ready a well cleaned and soaked salted sheep’s gut, and fill
lengths of it with the forcemeat, tying them at each end.
Put the puddings (coiled) into a large saucepan of hot
water, and poach them, keeping the water at the same
degree of heat, without allowing it to boil. Leave the
puddings till partly cooled in the water, so as to preserve
their curled appearance, then drain and hang them up in
the air. On the following day prick the puddings with a
needle, put them in an oven, and bake. When cooked,
put the puddings on a hot dish, and serve.
(4) Mix well together lib. of chopped marrow or suet,
Alb. of sifted breadcrumbs, ^lb. of currants well-washed
and dried, Jib. of almonds blanched and each almond cut
into about eight pieces, a small quantity of powdered
mace, cinnamon, and cloves, and a few slices of candied
lemon peel and citron. Mix all to a paste with the
beaten yolks of six eggs, stirred by degrees into 1 pint of
cream, flavoured with orange (lower water and sweetened
to taste with sugar. Warm a small quantity in a
saucepan, and taste to find out if properly flavoured.
White Puddings — continued.
Partially fill well-cleaned skins with the mixture, tying
them at intervals with twine. Boil them in milk-and-
water, pricking with a fork as they rise, or they will
burst.
(5) Soak 21b. of grits for twenty -four hours in good
mutton stock. At the end of that time, drain, and mix
with them 21b. of finely-chopped mutton suet, 2 heaped
table -spoonfuls of powdered sage, 1 table-spoonful of
powdered thyme, and loz. each of salt and black pepper.
Fill some long skins, tying them securely at the ends,
coil them in a saucepan of boiling water, and boil them
for two horn’s. When cooked and cold, they may be
served as they are, or may be cut into slices, dipped
in beaten eggs and oil batter, and fried a nice golden
brown. Spread a folded napkin or ornamental dish paper
on a hot dish, arrange the slices on it, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve.
WHITES.— This term is generally used to denote the
best class of pastry-ffour, but in the baking-trade it is a
term used to disguise the introduction of alum into
bread-making. They are then known as sharp Whites,
stuff, or bakers’ stuff, consisting of powdered alum and
flour in equal parts, or one pound of coarsely-ground
alum to three pounds of salt.
WHITE SAUCE.— See Sauces.
WHITING (Fr. Merlans ; Ger. Weiszlingen ; Ital.
Naselli). — The true Whiting is a pale and silvery tisli of
the cod family. Those usually caught are about the size
of a herring, but the flesh is exceedingly delicate and
quite free from oil. Dr. Walsh says of it: “It is
extremely digestible and fit for invalids and dyspeptics,
the flesh being tender yet not watery, delicate in flavour,
and of a pearly white.” The season for Whiting is early in
the spring, when they visit the seas of Great Britain, and
deposit their spawn near the shore. As they are very
inferior after spawning, the season does not last long, but
before they return to the depths of the sea they regain
some of their former quality. Other fish are frequently
palmed off upon the unwary as Whiting. Small haddocks,
skinned and trussed with the tail in the mouth, as it is
usual for Whiting to be trussed, with the tail passing
through the eyes, or skewered in the mouth (see Fig.
1050), are frequently sold as Whiting, as also are codling
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, c he., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 D
VOL. II
770
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Whiting — continued.
and pollocks. The codling may be detected by the barbie
under its lower jaw. Pollocks have the under-jaw pro-
jecting beyond the upper one, whereas the Whiting’s
upper jaw projects beyond the lower one (see Fig. 1051).
Baked Fillets of Whiting. — (1) Skin and clean some
Whiting, washing them well, and separate the fillets
from the bones. Place a thick layer of chicken forcemeat
on the bottom of a baking -dish, put in the fillets, season
them with pepper and salt, cover them with another
layer of the forcemeat, smooth the surface with the blade
of a knife dipped in hot water, grate over some stale
crust of bread, and baste with warmed butter. Bake the
fish in a quick oven, and when cooked pour some Italian
sauce over them, and serve.
(2) Wash and clean the required quantity of Whiting,
separate the fillets from the bones, season the fillets with
salt and pepper, spread some fish forcemeat over one side
of each, roll them up in such a way as to cover the
forcemeat, and fasten them with a skewer. Make a pie-
crust case and bake it, place the Whiting in the case,
put in some oysters and mushrooms, pour in a little
German sauce that has been flavoured with essence of
mushrooms, and bake them in a quick oven. When
cooked, put the Whiting on a hot dish, and serve.
Baked Whiting. — (1) Skin a Whiting, put it in a buttered
pie-dish, pour in 1 wineglassful of sherry, and cover
thickly with sweet herbs. Cover the dish with a
sheet of buttered paper, and bake the Whiting for about
ten minutes in a brisk oven. Put 1 table-spoonful of
butter and 2 table-spoonfuls of flour into a saucepan,
stir them over the fire till well mixed, then pour in the
gravy out of the dish in which the fish has been cooked,
and sufficient stock to make \ pint of sauce. Stir the
sauce over the fire till thick and boiling, then add about
2 table -spoonfuls of cream. Put the fish on a hot dish,
strain the sauce over it, garnish with some neat sprigs of
. fresh parsley (see Fig. 1052), and serve without delay.
(2) Skin and clean some small Whiting, wash well, dry
them, and tie them round with their tails in their mouths ;
brush them over with warmed butter, season with pepper
and salt, and coat them with finely grated breadcrumb.
Butter a baking dish, put in the Whiting, and bake in a
brisk oven for fifteen minutes. When cooked, drain the
fish, put them on a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish
them with parsley, and serve.
(3) Scrape and clean a Whiting, wash well, and dry it ;
put it in a buttered gratin-tin, season with salt and
pepper, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and pour in 1
teacupful of water. Bake the Whiting in a quick oven
for twenty minutes. Put loz. each of butter and flour
into a saucepan, stir them over the fire till well mixed,
dust in a small quantity of salt and pepper, and pour in
gradually J pint of water. Strain the liquor off the
Whiting into the sauce, and add about 2 table-spoonfuls
of chopped mushrooms, shallots, and parsley. Stir the
sauce by the side of the fire till the butter has melted ;
then put the Whiting on a hot dish, pour the sauce
over it, and serve.
(4) Clean the required quantity of Whiting and lay
them in a thickly-buttered pie-dish, with some finely-
chopped parsley, thyme, tarragon, and shallots ; baste them
with a few table-spoonfuls of white wine, and bake in a
moderate oven, turning them when cooked on one side.
When quite done, lay the fish on a hot dish ; pour the
sauce and seasonings into a small stewpan, mix with them
a lump of butter that has been kneaded with a small
quantity of flour, season to taste with salt and pepper,
Whiting — continued.
and stir over the fire until boiling; then pour the sauce
over the fish, and serve at once.
Baked Whiting served with Caper Sauce. — Scale and
clean some Whiting, wash and dry them on a cloth, put
them in a buttered gratin-tin, season them with salt and
pepper, pour in 1 teacupful of French white wine, and
bake in a quick oven for a-quarter-of-an-hour. Make
f pint of butter sauce, drain the liquor from the Whiting
when they are cooked into the sauce, and mix in 4
teacupful of capers. Put the Whiting on a hot dish, pour
the sauce over them, and serve.
Baked Whiting served with White-Wine Sauce. —
Clean some Whiting, put them in a buttered gratin-
dish with 1 pint of French white wine and a small quantity
of salt and pepper, and bake them in a quick oven for
about twenty minutes. Put 1 table -spoonful of butter and
2 table-spoonfuls of flour into a saucepan, stir them over
the fire till the butter has dissolved and mixed with the
flour, then dust in a small quantity of salt and pepper,
pour in gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of water, and continue
stirring over the fire till boiling. When cooked, drain the
liquor from the fish into the sauce, add loz. of butter and
1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and stir by the side
of the fire till the butter has melted. Put the Whiting
on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Boiled Whiting. — Well wash the required quantity of
Whiting but do not skin them, put them in a saucepan
of boiling salted water, and boil them for ten minutes.
When cooked, strain the fish, put them on a folded table-
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper placed on a hot dish,
garnish with neat little sprigs of parsley, and serve them
with a sauceboatful of melted butter sauce.
Boiled Whiting aux Fines Herbes. — Thoroughly clean and
wash five large-sized Whiting, dry them on a cloth, stuff
them with fish forcemeat, put them on a buttered drainer
in a fish-kettle, spread over them |lb. of butter, season
with grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper, add 2qts. of mush-
rooms, 2 table-spoonfuls of parsley, and a small blanched
shallot, all finely chopped, squeeze over the juice of a
lemon, and pour over J pint of white wine. Bring the
liquor to the boil, and simmer for half-an-hour, basting
the fish frequently ; take them out when done, put them
on a dish, pour the liquor over them, and serve.
Boudins of Whiting. — (1) Clean and skin some Whiting
and pick all the flesh off the bones. Chop the flesh, put
it in a mortar, pound, then rub it through a fine hair
sieve. Put loz. of butter and l|oz. of flour into a sauce-
pan, stir them over the fire till the butter has melted and
mixed with the flour, then add gradually H teacupfuls of
milk, mixing it smoothly, and continue stirring over the
fire till thick and boiling. When done, move the sauce to
the side of the fire, put in the pounded Whiting-flesh,
the beaten yolks of two eggs, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy
essence, 1 pinch of cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste,
and squeeze in a little lemon juice. Beat the whites of
the two eggs to a stiff froth, stir them in with the above
mixture, and add eight chopped oysters. Lightly coat the
insides of some dariole-moulds with butter, and fill them
with the above mixture. Cover the moulds with sheets
of buttered paper, put them in a stewpan, surround them
with boiling water to a little more than half their height,
and let them steam gently for about fifteen minutes.
When cooked, turn the boudins out of the moulds on to a
folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper that has been
placed on a hot dish, garnish with small pieces of parsley,
and serve with a sauceboatful of brown sauce.
(2) Make some Whiting quenelle forcemeat. Put the
spawn of a lobster in a saucepan with a small lump of
butter and pound it, then pass it through a fine hair
sieve. Mix the pounded spawn with the forcemeat, divide
it into halves, roll each half into puddings the same length
as the dish on which they are to be served, and poach
them in boiling water. Scallop the tail of a red lobster
in several pieces. When cooked, drain the boudins on a
cloth, split them, and put them on a hot dish. Prepare
the following sauce : Put into a saucepan 2 table-spoonfuls
of bechamel sauce, |lb. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces, c tec., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
771
Whiting — continued.
juice, 1 pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste ; stir
this sauce over the fire till boiling, then pour it over the
boudins, which should have been kept hot in the oven
while the sauce was being prepacd. Stick the scallops
of lobster-tails in the boudins, the red part upwards, and
serve them.
(3) Make some Whiting forcemeat, divide it into small
equal-sized quantities, and on a floured table roll them
into the shape of a cork. Make a salpifon of mussels,
cutting them into small pieces, and mixing them with
some reduced German sauce. Make a hollow in each
boudin, fill them with the salpicon, cover the openings
with forcemeat, roll the boudins in strips of buttered paper,
put them in a stewpan with some stock, and let them
simmer gently for fifteen minutes, or till the forcemeat
has set. Mix the cooking-liquor of the mussels with some
German sauce, boil it till reduced, then mix in 1 table
spoonful of chopped parsley. Drain the boudins, put them
on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
(4) Prepare some Whiting forcemeat, shape it with
the hands into boudins by rolling them on a floured table,
dip them in beaten egg, and cover them with bread
crumbs. Put the boudins on a greased gridiron and broil
them over a clear fire. When cooked and nicely browned,
arrange them in a circle on a folded table napkin or an
ornamental dish paper on a hot dish, and serve them
with a sauceboatful of half glaze in which a small
quantity of lemon-juice has been squeezed.
Boudins of Whiting- with Tried Mussels. — -Clean some
Whiting, separate the flesh from the bones, and trim off
the skin; put the flesh in a mortar and pound it; mash
Jib. of panada, adding Alb. of butter, then put in the
pounded fish again, season it with salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg, and stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs. Pound
the above mixture for ten minutes, then pass it through
a fine hair sieve into a basin. Cut three or four black
truffles into small squares, mix them with the forcemeat,
and add A table -spoonful of anchovy essence. Divide the
forcemeat into twelve pieces, form each piece into an egg
shape, and dip them in beaten egg and then in finely
grated breadcrumb. Put some dripping or butter into a
frying-pan, warm it, then put in the boudins and fry
them till nicely browned and cooked. Before the boudins
are fried, thoroughly wash in several waters some large
mussels, remove the sinewy strings, put the mussels in a
stewpan with A pint of white wine, and toss them over the
fire till they open. Drain the mussels, take them out
of their shells, and leave them till co'ol. Dip the mussels
one by one into villeroy sauce, lay them side by side
on a dish, and leave till the sauce has cooled. Cover
the mussels thickly with breadcrumbs, plunge them into a
frying-pan containing boiling fat, and fry them till nicely
browned ; fry the boudins at the same time but in a
separate pan. Drain the boudins, arrange them in a
circle on an ornamental dish-paper that has been placed
on a hot dish, drain the mussels, put them in the circle
(see l1 ig. 1053), and serve.
B ofc Whitin£ with Ravigote Sauce.— Make some
W luting forcemeat, divide it into equal-sized portions, put
them on a floured table, and roll them out with the
hand to the shape of a cork. Make a hollow in the
centie of each boudin with the handle of a wooden spoon,
Whiting — continued.
and fill them with a salpifon of shrimps’ tails cut into
small pieces, and mixed with some reduced German sauce.
Cover the apertures in the boudins with forcemeat in
such a way as to completely hide the salpifon. Wrap the
boudins in strips of buttered paper, put them in a saute -
pan with some stock, and let them simmer gently till the
forcemeat has set (this should take about fifteen minutes).
When cooked, drain the boudins, put them on a hot dish,
pour some ravigote sauce over them, and serve.
Broiled Whiting. — Scale and draw the required quantity
of Whiting, wash them thoroughly, dry on a cloth, split
them on both sides of the back, and preserve the livers.
Beat the yolk of an egg and season it with a small
quantity of pepper and salt. Dip a paste-brush in the
beaten egg and brush the fish over, then coat them with
breadcrumbs, brush them over with butter that has been
just warmed on the stove, anil breadcrumb them- again.
Put them on a gridiron and broil them over a clear but
not too fierce fire till nicely browned all over. To prevent
the fish sticking, grease the gridiron before putting them
on it. When cooked, put the Whiting on a folded
napkin or ornamental dish paper that has been placed on
a hot dish, garnish with neat little sprigs of parsley, and
serve them with a sauceboatful of maitre d’hotel sauce. Fry
the liver in butter, then chop it up finely, and put it in
the sauce.
Buttered Whiting. — Clean the Whiting, scale them,
cut off the fins, and wash them well. Rub a small
quantity of pepper and salt over the Whiting, and coat
them thickly with flour on both sides. Put them into a
baking-dish with a lump of butter, and bake them in a
quick oven. When half cooked, turn the Whiting, baste
them well with the butter, and finish cooking them. When
nicely browned, drain the fish, put them on an ornamental
dish-paper or a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish with
slices of lemon and some small sprigs of parsley, and
serve.
Dried Whiting.— Take fish of about *21b. or 31b. weight,
clean them thoroughly, cut off the gills, take out the eyes,
wash oft the blood from the backbone, and dry them
thoroughly with a cloth; then put salt into the sockets of
the eyes and inside the bodies, lay them on a board, and
let them remain there all night. The following day hang
them in a dry place and let them hang for four days. Then
skin them, brush over with beaten egg, cover them with
sifted breadcrumbs, put them in a Dutch oven before the
fire, and baste with butter till sufficiently browned. Serve
hot with egg sauce.
Fillets of Whiting a la Maitre d’Hotel.— Clean and
wash the required quantity of Whiting, dry them on a
cloth, then separate the fillets from the bones. Divide
the fillets into halves, season them with salt and pepper,
brush over with beaten yolks of eggs, breadcrumb them,
brush over with clarified butter, and broil over a clear
fire till nicely browned. Put the fish on a hot dish,
cover with maitre d’hotel sauce, and serve.
Fillets of Whiting a l’Orly. — ( 1 ) Clean some Whiting
and separate the fillets from the bones, trim them, and if
large divide them into halves. Season the fillets with salt
and pepper, squeeze some lemon juice over them, and coat
them well with flour. Melt a lump of dripping or butter
in a frying-pan, then put in the fish, and fry them over
a brisk fire. When cooked (they should be nicely browned),
drain the fish on a sheet of paper, then arrange them on
a folded napkin or ornamental dish paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve them with a sauce-
boatful of tomato sauce.
(2) Clean and scale the requisite quantity of fish, wash
and dry them, then pick out the fillets. Trim the fillets
on both sides, taking care not to damage the skin, cut
each into halves, put them into a deep dish with some
chopped parsley roots and shallots, dust in a small quantity
of salt and pepper, and squeeze in the juice of one lemon.
Stir the fillets about now and then to mix them well with
the seasoning, and let them macerate for three hours.
Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth ; grate some
crumb of stale bread, and mix it with a little flour.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <kc., referred to, see under their special heads.
8l)2
772
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Whiting — continued.
Drain the fillets on a cloth, and dip them in the beaten
whites, then in the breadcrumbs. Put a lump of dripping
in a deep frying-pan, and when on the point of boiling-
put in the fish, and fry them till nicely browned. Dram
the fillets on a sheet of paper in front of the fire, then
arrange them on an ornamental dish -paper or a folded
napkin spread over a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley,
and serve with a sauceboatful of hot white ravigote sauce.
Pried Pillets of Whiting. — Separate the fillets from the
hones of some Whiting, trim neatly, brush them over
with beaten egg, roll them in breadcrumbs, put them in
a frying-pan with some hot fat, and fry till crisp. Make
some Spanish sauce and mix it with some finely-chopped
parsley, the juice of half a lemon, and a small lump of
butter. When cooked, drain the fillets, arrange them in
a circle on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on
a hot dish, garnish the centre with fried parsley, and serve
with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Fried Whiting. — (1) Skin and clean some Whiting, then
turn them and stick their tails through their eyes. Dredge
them over with flour, dip them in beaten eggs, and coat
thickly with breadcrumbs. Put either a lump of lard or
fat that has been clarified into a frying-pan ; when it is
of the right heat (the best way to try it is to put in a
lump of bread, and if it makes a slight hissing noise it is
hot enough), put in the Whiting and fry them. When
nicely browned all over, put the Whiting on a stout
sheet of paper in front of the fire for a few minutes, then
put them on an ornamental dish-paper or folded napkin
that has been placed on a hot dish. Serve with a sauce-
boatful of Dutch sauce.
(2) Clean some Whiting well, cut off the fins, and dry
them thoroughly. Fasten their tails in their mouths, brush
them over with beaten egg, and roll them in a paper of
breadcrumbs. Fry in boiling lard, drain them on paper,
lay them on a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish nicely
with fried parsley, and serve shrimp sauce with them.
Grilled Whiting. — (1) Prepare as many fish as are desired,
roll them round, fasten them with skewers, put them into
a bowl of olive oil, and let them steep for several hours.
Take them out, drain, place them over a clear fire, and
grill them. When done, put them on a dish, dust over
with salt and pepper, pour over a rich cream or veloute
sauce with a few chopped capers stirred in, and decorate
with small slices of lemon, tomato, and gherkin.
(2) Clean and wash some Whiting, score them across
in five or six places on each side, season them with
pepper and salt, put them on a gridiron that has been
greased, and broil them over a clear fire. Prepare and cook
some sorrel as for garnish, and put it on a hot dish; when
cooked, put the Whiting on the bed of sorrel, and serve.
Paupiettes of Whiting. — (1) Clean some Whiting, separate
the fillets from the skin and bones, season them with
salt and pepper, and spread a layer of Whiting forcemeat
on each fillet. Roll the fillets round the forcemeat, wrap
them in sheets of buttered paper, and tie round with
string. Put the paupiettes in a baking dish with some
stock, and cook them. Prepare a paste croustade, making
it the same size as the dish on which it is to he served,
and Hin. high. Put the paupiettes in the croustade,
leaving a space in the centre, which fill with a sal] ii con
of mushrooms and oysters mixed with some German sauce
that has been reduced with some essence of mushrooms.
Serve without delay.
(2) Draw and wash the required quantity of Whiting,
separate the fillets from the hones, and trim them neatly.
Spread some Whiting quenelle forcemeat over the white
side of the fillets, and roll them up. Pile a dome of the
forcemeat on the dish on which the fish is to be served — ■
one that will hear the heat of the oven must be used—
put a row of the rolled fillets round the dome, then put
a circle of forcemeat round that to form a support for
another row of fillets, which should be placed round it.
Dust a small quantity of salt over the fish, cover them
with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake in a quick oven
for about twenty minutes. Put |lb. of butter into some
Italian sauce, add a small quantity of essence of anchovies,
Whiting — continued.
stir the sauce over the fire till well mixed, and season it
with salt and pepper. When cooked, take the fillets out
of the oven, wipe the dish, pour the sauce over the fish,
and serve.
Scalded Whiting. — Split the requi ed quantity of Whiting
down the belly, clean them, carefully removing all the
black film, and take out the eyes. Put the fish in a
deep dish, cover them with salted water, and let them
steep all night. On the following day, roll the fish round
and stick the tails through the eye-holes, put them into
a fish-kettle of boiling water, boil the water, then take
the scum off the top, and move the fish-kettle to the side
of the fire. If the fish be small, they should he cooked in
about five minutes. When done, drain the fish, put them
on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot
dish, garnish with sprigs of fried parsley, and serve with
a sauceboatful of butter that has been oiled.
Souffle of Whiting. — Put 3oz. each of butter and flour into
a saucepan with the yolks of four eggs, J teaspoonful of
anchovy essence, and a seasoning of salt and pepper ; mix
well over a slow fire, add gradually 3 teacupfuls of
milk, and stir well until the whole comes to the boil. As
soon as it commences to thicken, stir quickly to remove
any lumps, add 9oz. of finely-chopped uncooked Whiting,
without skin or bones, and lastly the well -whipped whites
of six eggs. Have ready a well-buttered souffle tin or
mould, place a band of buttered paper round the rim to
stand up quite 2|in. above it, pour in the mixture, sprinkle
over with browned breadcrumbs, and place a few lumps of
butter here and there. Put the mould into a hot oven and
bake for fully forty-five minutes ; remove the paper, fasten
a folded napkin or dish -paper round the tin, sprinkle the
souffle with chopped parsley and pepper, and serve hot.
Stewed Whiting. — (1) Clean and cut the fish into nice -sized
pieces, dredge them with flour, put them into a frying-pan
with a lump of butter, and fry them. When nicely
browned, drain the fish, and put it in a stewpan. Peel
and slice an onion, put it in the frying pan with the
butter that the fish was fried in, and fry that also. Turn
the onion in with the fish, add a bunch of sweet herbs,
two or three cloves, a small piece of mace, salt and pepper,
and sufficient water to cover. Thicken it with a table-
spoonful or two of flour, flavour with a few drops of
mushroom ketchup, and keep it stewing gently at the edge
of the fire until quite tender. When cooked, remove the
herbs, turn the stew on to a hot dish, garnish with
Whiting forcemeat balls that have been poached in water,
and serve.
(2) Scale and cut off the fins of half a large Whiting,
wash and dry it well, then cut it into thick slices. Place
a lump of butter in a flat stewpan, slightly warm it,
then put in a layer of trimmings of mushrooms and a
small quantity of chopped onions. Put in the slices of
Whiting, laying them side by side, sprinkle some salt over
them, put in a bunch of parsley and a bay-leaf, and
squeeze in the juice of two lemons. Cover the contents
of the stewpan with the liquor that has been strained off
three dozen oysters, put the lid on, and boil the fish for
ten minutes over a quick fire. When cooked, take the
slices of Whiting out carefully with a slice, and arrange
them on a hot dish. Take the parsley out of the cooking-
liquor, and boil it till somewhat reduced. Work a small
lump of butter with I table-spoonful of flour, put it in the
sauce, and stir it over the fire for a few- minutes longer.
Strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve into another
stewpan, put in -jib. of fresh butter broken into small
pieces, stir it by the side of the fire till dissolved, then
put in thirty oysters. Pour the sauce over the fish, and
serve.
Whiting a la Chef de Cuisine. — Clean and wash two
Whiting, rub them well with salt to prevent them break-
ing, and leave for an hour or two. Lay the fish at the
bottom of a broad flat stewpan, pour in some gravy to
about half their height, put in an onion cut in quarters
and 1 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and boil the fish
gently for twenty minutes. Put 2 table-spoonfuls of
butter and 1 table -spoonful of flour into a saucepan,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads ■
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
773
Whiting — continued.
and stir it over the fire till the butter melts anil mixes
with the flour. When cooked, lift the fish out with a
slice, and put them on a hot dish. Take the onion out
of tire cooking- liquor, and pour it gradually into the
saucepan containing the flour and butter ; stir the sauce
over the fire till boiling, Jien move it to the side of the
fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs, a few drops
of mushroom ketchup, a squeeze of lemon- juice, and a
small quantity of pepper and salt. The sauce should not
boil after the eggs are added, but should lie stirred by
the side of the fire till thick. Pour the sauce over the
Whiting, garnish with parsley and quarters of lemon (see
Fig. 1054), and serve.
Whiting a la Colbert. — Prepare a marinade with a sliced
onion, the juice of a lemon, a little parsley, bay-leaf, and
thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Clean five Whiting,
wash them, and dry on a cloth ; rub them every now and
then for two hours in the marinade, dip them into milk,
flour them well, then dip them into breadcrumbs mixed
up with a small quantity of grated Parmesan cheese.
Place them in a wire frying-basket, plunge them into
boiling oil, and cook till they are of a fine colour and the
flesh quite firm. Take them out when done, drain them,
put them on a dish, pour round a little maitre-d’hotel
sauce, and serve more in a sauceboat.
Whiting A la Franqaise. — Do not skin the Whiting, but
wipe them over with a wet cloth ; make some deep
incisions along each side, using a very sharp knife for
the purpose. Dip the fish in a little milk on a plate
and dust them over with flour ; put some lard or clarified
fat in a frying pan, make it hot, then put in the fish,
and fry them till crisp and lightly browned. Drain the
Whiting, put them on a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve
with a sauceboatful of anchovy sauce. Shrimp sauce can
be used in place of anchovy sauce if preferred.
Whiting au Gratin. — (1) Cut the fins and head off a
Whiting, empty it, wash it well, and dry thoroughly;
split the Whiting and remove the bone, beginning at the
head end. Chop five or six mushrooms, half a shallot,
and a few sprigs of parsley ; mix them together, then add
the grated rind of half a lemon and a small quantity of
pepper and salt. Butter a baking-dish, cover the bottom
with half of the chopped herbs, put in the Whiting, and
sprinkle the remainder of the herbs over it ; cover with
breadcrumbs that have been browned in a little butter,
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and bake for about
ten minutes in a quick oven. When cooked, turn the
gratin carefully on to a hot dish (see Fig. 1055), pour \
teacupful of brown stock round it, and serve.
(2) Scale and empty the Whiting, wash them well, and
wipe them on a cloth. Coat the bottom of a baking-disli
with butter, and sprinkle in some finely-chopped mushrooms
and parsley; put in the Whiting, cover them with finely -
grated breadcrumb, and season with salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg. Sprinkle some more finely-chopped mush-
Whiting — continued.
rooms and parsley over them ; and finely -chopped shallots
may be added if cared for. Put two or three lumps of
butter in the dish, pour in 2 wineglassfuls of white
wine, place it in a brisk oven, and bake from fifteen to
twenty minutes. When cooked, squeeze some lemon-juice
over the fish, and serve them. They will not require any
other kind of sauce. As the gratin has to be served in
the same dish it is cooked in, it is well to use a silver
one if possible.
(3) Thickly butter the interior of a baking-dish, and
strew over the bottom a layer of finely minced shallots,
mushrooms, and parsley, also some baked and finely-sifted
breadcrumbs ; season with salt and pepper. Split the
Whiting open and lay them on the seasoning; cover with
an equal quantity of the same ingredients, putting the
breadcrumbs on the top, moisten to height with 2 wine-
glassfuls of white wine and stock, being very careful in
pouring the liquor in not to wash the crumbs off’ the top.
Bake the fish in a good oven for twenty minutes. When
cooked, turn them with the seasoning on to a hot dish,
and serve.
Whiting a la Hollandaise. — Clean and wash the required
number of Whiting, but do not skin them ; rub them
well with salt and pepper, and leave them for au hour.
Put the Whiting in a fish kettle of boiling water, add 1
table-spoonful of vinegar, and keep the water boiling
gently for ten minutes. Put 1 table spoonful of flour
into a saucepan, mix it till smooth with a small quantity
of cold water, then pour in 4 pint of boiling water and
stir it over the fire till thick. Put in the sauce 2oz. of
butter broken into small pieces, 1 pinch of salt, and the
juice of half a lemon. When the butter has dissolved and
well mixed, move the sauce to the side of the fire and
stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. When the fish is
cooked, drain it carefully, put it on a folded napkin or
ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, and serve while
very hot, with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Whiting a la Maitre d’Hotel. — Prepare and stuff five
Whiting as for Boiled Whiting aux Fines Hekbes;
put them into a fish-kettle, pour over Soz. of warmed
butter, and add 3 table-spoonfuls of finely chopped parsley,
the strained juice of two lemons, and a good seasoning of
salt and pepper. Put the kettle on the fire with hot
ashes on the lid, and simmer the contents for twenty-five
minutes; then take them out if done, put them on a dish,
pour over maitre d’hotel sauce, and serve with a garnish of
boiled potatoes cut into shapes.
Whiting Cakes or Pain. — Put lib. of Whiting-flesh with
out skin or bones into a mortar and pound it, then pass it
through a fine hair sieve into a basin. Prepare lOoz. of
rice-flour panada, pound it in the mortar, then mix in
gradually the pounded Whiting-flesh and lOoz. of butter.
Season the mixture with salt and pepper, and stir in the
beaten yolks of four eggs. Butter a border-mould, fill it
with the above mixture, cover with a sheet of buttered
paper, stand it in a saucepan with boiling water to three-
parts the heightof the mould, and let it simmer till the
forcemeat has set. Put the bones and trimmings of the
fish into a saucepan with some trimmings of mushrooms
and 2 wineglassfuls of white wine ; let it simmer for fifteen
minutes, then skim the extract, and strain it into another
stewpan ; stir in gradually 1 pint of veloute sauce, and boil
it till somewhat reduced. Mould some quenelles with the
forcemeat left over from the pain, and poach them in
salted water. Prepare as for garnish some button mushrooms,
soft roes of carp, some picked crayfish tails, and five or
six whole truffles. When the pain is cooked, turn it out of
the mould on to a hot dish, and fill the centre with the
articles prepared for garnish. Mix a small piece of cray-
fish butter and an equal quantity of plain butter in with
the sauce, and stir it till it has dissolved. Pour the sauce
over the border of forcemeat, and serve.
Whiting Croquettes a la Soubise. -Put 41b. of Whiting-
flesh, cleaned and separated from the bones and skin, into
a mortar, and pound it with 41 b. each of panada and butter ;
season the mixture with salt and pepper, bind it with the
beaten yolks of three eggs, and pass it through a fine hair
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
774
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Whiting — continued.
Whi ting — con tinned.
sieve into a basin ; work the mixture for two or three
minutes with a spoon. Divide the forcemeat into small
equal portions, put them on a Houred hoard, and roll them
to the shape of a cork. Make a hollow in the centre of each
croquette, using the handle of a small wooden spoon for the
>urpose. Make a rather still' soubise puree, and fill the
lollow of each croquette with it. Leave them till cold,
then cover the opening at the top with raw forcemeat. Brush
the croquettes over with beaten egg, anti cover them with
finely-grated breadcrumb ; put a good-sized lump of butter
or dripping into a frying-pan, melt it, then put in the
croquettes, and fry them till well browned. Drain the
croquettes, put them on a folded napkin or a dish -paper
that has been placed on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve.
Whiting Forcemeat. — -(1) Clean the Whiting, separate the
flesh from the bones, and trim off the skin ; for every
pound of fish-flesh use lOoz. each of bread panada and butter.
Put the fish, panada, and butter into a mortar and pound
them together ; season the mixture with salt and pepper,
and stir in two beaten eggs ami sufficient reduced veloute
sauce maigre that lias been thickened with an egg to
make the forcemeat soft but stiff. It is then ready for
use.
(2) Remove the skin from the fillets of three Whiting,
put them into a mortar, pound them well, and form the
mass into a ball. Take a little bread panada, about a
third the bulk of the fish ball, put it into the mortar,
and add 2oz. of butter; mix the two well, put in the fish
mixture, and season with finely grated nutmeg and a little
salt and pepper. Beat up the yolks of five eggs and
the whites of three, and pour it into the fish mixture
gradually, mixing well while adding. Put a little of the
forcemeat into some boiling water or stock to poach, and if it
is too stiff add a little white sauce or melted butter ; if too
thin and tender, add a little more yolk of egg, and use it.
Whiting in Jelly. — Empty the fish, wash them well
with plenty of water, and dry them. Fix the tails of
the Whiting in their mouths. Put a sliced onion, a bay-
leaf, some pepper, salt, and spices in a saucepan with 2
table-spoonfuls of vinegar and sufficient water to cook the
fish in. Boil the water to extract the flavours of the
articles in it, then put in the fish, move the saucepan to
the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently until the
fish is cooked. When done, take the fish carefully out
with the slice, drain them, and coat them with clear fish
jelly. When the jelly has set, give the fish another
coating, and repeat the operation till they are well covered.
When the last layer of the jelly has set, arrange the fish
on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a dish,
garnish them with sprigs of parsley, and serve.
Whiting Pie. -.Cut off the fillets from twelve small
Whiting without removing the skin, lightly season them
with grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper, put them on a
board or table, spread them over thinly with fish forcemeat,
and roll them up. Line a dish with paste, mask it with
fish forcemeat, put in the fillets of Whiting, pour over
a few table spoonfuls of warmed butter, cover with a
layer of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for from
an hour and a quarter to an-hour and a half. Take out the
pie when done, mask it with highly seasoned Spanish
sauce, and serve. Should the pie be required very rich,
it may lie covered with slices of fat bacon before putting
on the lid or cover, and removing them before serving by
taking off the lid of the pie, and afterwards replacing it.
Whiting Pudding. — Separate the flesh from the bones
and skin of two or three raw Whiting, put it in a mortar,
and pound until smooth ; place 1 teacupful of water in a
saucepan with loz. of butter .and 1 saltspoonful of salt,
and when it boils stir in gradually as much flour as will
make a stiff paste. Leave the paste until cold, then put
it in the mortar containing the fish, with half its quantity
of butter; pound the whole together until quite smooth, then
pass it through a fine hair sieve. Season the mixture to
taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg, and bind it with h teacupful of bechamel sauce,
the beaten yolks of one or two eggs, and the white of
one. Butter a mould, fill it with the mixture, cover the
top with a sheet of buttered paper, and stand it in a
stewpan with boiling water to three-parts its height ;
steam it for half an-hour. When cooked, turn the
pudding on to a hot (fish, pour a white sauce round it,
and serve.
Whiting Quenelles. -(1) Wash and clean the Whiting,
pick the flesh off the bones, and put it in a mortar. Put
the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with a little
water, and boil them for the purpose of making a little
fish broth. Mix Jib. of bread panada and ilb. of butter
in with the fish in the mortar, season with pepper
and salt, pound it, and pass through a fine hair sieve.
Beat two eggs, and stir them in with the pounded mixture,
with sufficient broth strained off the bones to make it
the proper consistency. Work all together till quite
smooth, then pass it through the line hair sieve again.
With two table-spoons mould the forcemeat into quenelles,
put them into a saucepan with some boiling fish broth,
and poach them. Before the quenelles are cooked, a sauce
should be made in the following manner : Pick the shells
off several prawns, put them in a mortar, and pound them.
Prepare a melted butter sauce in a small saucepan, stir
in the pounded prawns, and, if obtainable, the coral of a
lobster, to give it a pink tinge. When cooked, drain the
quenelles, put them on a hot dish in a circle, garnish with
some neat little sprigs of fried parsley, put the sauce in
a sauceboat in the centre of the dish (see Fig. 1056), and
serve very hot.
(2) Clean and wash the Whiting, pick out all the bones
and skin, chop the flesh, and pound it in a mortar; rub
the pounded fish through a fine hair sieve. >Soak the
crumb of some bread in milk. Chop some mushrooms and
a small quantity of parsley, put them in a frying-pan with a
lump of butter, and fry them lightly. When cooled, mix
the mushrooms and parsley with the pounded Whiting,
squeeze the soaked bread, add that, and a lump of butter
about the same bulk as the flesh of the Whiting. Pound
the mixture in the mortar again, season it with pepper,
salt, and allspice, and bind with three or four beaten eggs.
Mould the forcemeat into quenelles with two table-
spoons. Brush them over with a paste brush dipped in
be it m egg, then roll them in finely-grated crumb of stale
bread. Make some lard, butter, or dripping hot in a
frying-pan, put in the quenelles, and fry them till nicely
browned. Put about 4oz. of butter in i pint of Italian
sauce, season it with salt and pepper, and stir it over the
fire till hot. When cooked, drain the quenelles, put them
on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Whiting Quenelles a la Venetienne. — Make 1 Jib. of
Whiting forcemeat ; try if the proper consistency by poach-
ing a small quantity of it in boiling water. Mould the
forcemeat into small quenelles with two table spoons, and
poach them in boiling salted water. When cooked, drain
the quenelles and arrange them in a circle on a hot dish ;
fill the centres with collops of lobster tails, pour a small
quantity of veloute sauce over the tails, and serve with a
sauceboatful of the same.
WHITING POLLOCK or WHITING POUT.—
See Pollock.
WHORTLE-BERRIES. — See Bilberries.
WIDGEON or WIGEON. — A species of wild fowl,
common to many countries. The common European
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, ike., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
775
Widgeon — continued.
Widgeon ( Moreca penelope) comes to this country from the
North in the end of September, and remains until the
beginning of April. It is very tame for a wild bird, and
feeds principally upon grass. Widgeons should be cooked
as follows :
Grilled Widgeons. — Remove the head, neck, and wing-
bones from a brace of Widgeons, split them down the back,
and truss as for spatchcock. Take out the breast bones,
and ml) the interior of the birds with mushroom powder.
Put the bones and trimmings of the birds into a stewpan
with their gizzards and livers, 1 teaspoonful of made
mustard, 1 wineglassful of port wine, pepper and salt,
and cayenne to taste, a small quantity of brown stock,
and boil gently for half-an-hour. Lay the birds on a
gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire, turning them
when done on one side. When cooked, lay the birds on a
hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a lemon in the gravy,
and strain it over them. Serve while very hot. Mallard
or pintail can be used in place of Widgeons, if preferred.
Roasted Widgeons. — Pluck and singe a pair of Widgeons,
cut off the heads and claws, draw the birds without
breaking the entrails, and wipe them with a wet cloth ;
rub them all over with cold butter, dredge them with
flour, and either roast them before a hot fire for fifteen
minutes, or bake them for about twenty minutes. Carefully
preserve all the gravy that flows from them, and when
■nearly done dust them with salt and pepper. Serve at
once with their gravy and red-currant jelly, or with orange
essence made as follows : Chop very fine two peeled
shallots or one onion, grate the yellow rind of a large
orange, and chop loz. of ham or bacon very fine ; put these
ingredients into a small saucepan, add to them a slight
dust of cayenne pepper, A pint of gravy from roasted wild
fowl, 1 gill of port wine, and 1 saltspoonful of salt, and
simmer gently for ten minutes. Meanwhile squeeze the
juice from a whole orange and half a lemon into a sauce-
boat. At the end of ten minutes strain the sauce into
the orange- and lemon-juice, and serve it at once.
WILD BOAR. — See Boar.
WILD DUCK.— A common name for this bird is the
Mallard, from which the domestic Duck has descended. Its
flesh is considered coarser than the tame Duck, and is apt
to taste fishy. It is cleaned and trussed like an ordinary
Duck, and may be cooked in the same way, or as follows :
Boiled Wild Duck. — (1) Prepare and dress a Wild Duck,
stuff it with a chopped small onion, pepper, salt, and a
table -spoonful of red wine ; then put it in a saucepan with
sufficient water to make a gravy, stand it over a brisk fire,
and cook for fifteen or twenty minutes. Dish it, pom-
over a rich brown gravy, and serve.
(2) Singe, draw, and wipe the Duck, split it open down
the back, and put it in a saucepan with a little water,
butter, pepper, and salt, and boil slowly till tender.
Sprinkle a little Hour into the liquor, and simmer for
another five minutes. Dish the Duck, and serve with the
gravy poured over it.
Broiled Wild Ducks. — Pick, singe, draw, and well wipe two
M ild Ducks, split them down the back without detaching,
place them skin downwards on a dish, season with salt
and pepper, and pour over 2 table- spoonfuls of oil. Roll
the birds well in this marinade, put them on a broiler
over a brisk fire, and broil for seven minutes on each side.
Fig. 1057. Broiled Wild Ducks.
1 lace them on a hot dish, cover over with maitre-d’hotel
butter, garnish with watercress (see Fig. 1057), and serve.
Wild Duck — continued.
Fillets of Wild Ducks. — Prepare and roast the Ducks as for
Fillets of Wild Ducks with Game Sauce, keeping them
rather underdone. 'When cooked, remove the fillets from the
breasts and trim them neatly. Cut as many crofttons of
bread as there are fillets, and fry them in butter till of a
golden brown colour. Chop the livers of the Ducks, season
with pepper, salt, and finely-minced parsley, and work in
a small quantity of butter. Spread the croutons with a
layer of the liver mixture, thicker in the middle than at
the sides, place them for a few minutes in a hot oven,
and then brown them with a salamander. Arrange the
fillets and croutons in a circle on a hot dish alternately,
pour in the centre some game sauce with a few mild
stoned olives in it, and serve.
Fillets of Wild Ducks (au Fumet de Gibier). — Roast
the Ducks as for Fillets of Wild Duck with Game
Sauce, and when cooked take them up and cut the
fillets off the breasts ; put the trimmings and backbones
into a saucepan, having cliopiied them up small, add a
little chopped onion, carrot, turnip, and celery, two or
three sprigs of thyme and parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, a
small piece of mace, and 1 wineglassful of sherry, and boil
for five minutes ; then pour in 1 pint of brown sauce
and ^ pint of broth, and boil quickly for twenty minutes.
Skim well, and strain through a fine hair sieve. Trim the
fillets neatly and warm them up again in the sauce, then
put them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and
serve.
Fillets of Wild Duck with. Game Sauce. — Draw and pre-
pare the birds for roasting, wrap them round with slices
of vegetables and bacon, then with paper, and roast
them. When cooked, cut off the fillets and keep them
hot. Break up the backbones, put them in a saucepan
with a chopped shallot, A teacupful of port wine, and a
little glaze, and set it over the fire for two or three
minutes ; then pour in 1 pint of brown sauce and a little
more than A pint of broth, and boil for a few minutes.
Strain through a fine hair sieve into another saucepan,
boil it quickly till it sticks to the back of the spoon, and
then season it with cayenne, salt, and lemon- juice. It
should be kept well skimmed. Put. the fillets on to a hot
dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Fillet of Wild Ducks with Grouse Puree. — Truss and roast
the Ducks in front of a clear fire. Pick off all the flesh
from the bones of a roast grouse, chop it, and pound it
in a mortar. Break the bones, put them in a saucepan
with a small piece of carrot, onion, turnip, two or three
sprigs of thyme and parsley, and 1 wineglassful of white
wine, and stir them over the fire for a few minutes, then
pour in lqt. of veloute sauce and 1 pint of veal stock.
Boil the sauce till somewhat reduced, then mix with it 1
teacupful of cream and 1 teaspooiiful of moist sugar, and
pass it through a fine hair sieve into another saucepan.
Put the pounded flesh of the grouse into the sauce, boil
for ten minutes, and then mb it through a silk sieve.
When cooked, cut off the fillets from the Ducks, trim,
and arrange them in a circle on a hot dish ; turn the puree
of grouse into the centre, and serve very hot.
Fillets of Wild Ducks with. Orange Sauce (au Bigarade).
— (1) Fillet three Wild Ducks, score the skin, and put them
in a bowl with onions cut in halves, a few sprigs of parsley,
and mushroom ketchup ; season with salt, peppercorns,
and cover with oil. When the fillets have steeped in this
marinade for an hour, take them out, put them in a
frying-pan with a little oil, and fry them over a sharp
fire, turning occasionally. When done, drain, arrange on
a dish in a circular form, and serve with orange sauce in
a sauceboat.
(2) Cut the fillets from the breast of one or two roasted
\\ ild Ducks, trim them neatly, and keep them hot.
Break up the legs and backs of the Ducks, put them in
a saucepan with 1 teacupful of sherry and a few sprigs
of parsley, and set them over the fire for a few minutes.
Pour 1 pint of broth over the bones, and boil it for ten
minutes, then skim and pass the liquor through a fine
hair sieve into another saucepan. Boil the sauce till
reduced to a half glaze, then pour in a little more than
tor details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred, to, see under their special heads.
776
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wild Duck — continued.
I pint of brown sauce, and add the finely-shred rind of
half an orange and 1 teaspoonful of sugar. Boil the sauce
for a few minutes longer, then mix with it 1 teaspoonful
of orange-juice. Put the fillets on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over them, and serve.
Hashed Wild Duck. — (1) Cut up a Wild Duck into pieces,
put them in a stewpan, cover with a rich gravy, squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon, add 1 wineglassful of claret,
and season with mixed spice, salt, and cayenne, adding
sufficient breadcrumbs to make it thick. Stand the pan
at the side of the fire till it begins to bubble, then dish
up, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve.
(2) Roast a Wild Duck, but let it be rather underdone;
take off the skin while it is hot. Cut into small pieces a
few shallots, two or three slices each of ham and sliced
carrots, and put these in a stewpan with the skin of the
Duck, a piece of butter, two or three sprigs of parsley
and thyme, a bay-leaf, a few blades of mace, four cloves,
and six peppercorns, and fry till the ham has browned a
little; dredge in a little Hour and fry till the Hour is done,
add 1 wineglassful of white wine and 1 teacupful of rich
brown gravy, and season with salt and pepper. Put in
all the skin and trimmings of the Duck and let them stew.
Skim off the fat and reduce the sauce ; when this is done,
strain it, and put in the pieces of Duck. When thoroughly
hot through, dish up, squeeze over a little lemon juice,
garnish with croutons of fried bread, sprinkle a dust of
cayenne pepper over, and serve.
Roasted Wild Duck. — (1) Singe, draw, and prepare a Wild
Duck, and roast it before a very brisk fire for twenty
Fig. 1058. Roasted Wild Duck.
minutes. When done, dish on a bed of watercress (see
Fig. 1058), and serve with a rich brown gravy well flavoured
with lemon- juice.
(2) Prepare and truss a Wild Duck, and roast it in front
of a brisk fire, basting frequently with butter. Just
before taking it up, dredge with Hour, and baste it to a
nice brown. Dish the Duck, which should be rather
underdone than otherwise, and pour a rich brown gravy
over it. Put in a sauceboat 2 wineglassfuls of port wine,
a few drops of chilli vinegar, the juice of one lemon,
| saltspoonful of salt, and boil gently. Serve this sauce
with the Duck.
(3) Prepare a Wild Duck, cut off the head and neck,
scald the feet, and truss them with the Duck in the
same way as a fowl. Put the Duck close to a sharp fire
for a few minutes to brown, then move it a little way
back, and baste continually with butter till done ; just
before it is taken up dredge with Hour. In the mean-
time soak the necks and gizzards in 1 pint of water over
the fire till the water is reduced to h pint, or in place of
water use \ pint of veal gravy ; put into this a slice of
lemon or orange, one onion, three or four leaves of basil,
a blade of mace, a little pepper and salt, and boil together
for a few minutes, then strain ; add 1 wineglassful of port
wine and the juice of a lemon or orange. Dish the Ducks
when done, pour the gravy over them, and serve.
(4) Pluck and singe a Wild Duck, wipe it with a wet
towel, draw it carefully, and skewer the legs and wings ;
then stuff it with a whole peeled onion, plenty of salt and
pepper, and 1 wineglassful of claret, and lay it carefully
in a roasting-pan just large enough to hold it. If the
Duck is of medium size, bake it in a hot oven or roast it
before the fire for fifteen minutes ; if large, let it cook
twenty minutes. Serve hot with the gravy it yields in
cooking, and red-currant jelly on a separate dish.
(5) Singe, pluck, and draw a Wild Duck, wash it in |
Wild Duck — continued.
a little water, and wipe it perfectly dry. Stuff it with
some good bread stuffing, chop off the wings at the first
joint, which must be tied tightly to the side of the bird,
tie down the legs also, put the Duck in a baking-
dish, and bake in a hot oven for from thirty to forty
minutes according to the size of the Duck, basting fre-
quently. Put it on a dish, and serve with apple sauce.
Care must be taken that the oven is quite hot when
the bird is first put in, or else all the gravy oozes out
and the flavour is spoilt.
(0) Pick, singe, and draw two \\ ild Ducks, wipe them
well both outside and inside, season them inwardly with
salt, run in the heads from the end of the neck to the
back, truss them, and place them in a roasting pan.
Sprinkle over a little salt, put them in a brisk oven, and
roast for eighteen minutes. Place them on a hot dish,
untruss them, pour 2 table-spoonfuls of white broth into
each Duck, and serve. Slices of fried hominy pudding as
a garnish, and red-currant jelly in a dish, should accompany
them.
Salmis of Wild Duck. -(1) Cut off all the flesh from two
roasted \\ ild Ducks, skin and trim them, and put the
meat in a stewpan. Put the bones, trimmings, and skin,
with four shallots, four onions (one stuck with four cloves),
one faggot, and half a bottle of claret in another stewpan,
•and boil until the liquor is reduced to half its original
quantity ; then add I h pints of Spanish sauce, and simmer
for twenty minutes. Skim, strain through a conical
strainer into another stewpan, and boil till the sauce coats
the spoon. Pour one fourth of this over the pieces of
Duck, and set the pan over the fire till they are hot
through, but do not boil them. Dish the Duck, pour
over the remainder of the sauce, garnish with crofttons of
fried bread, and serve.
(2) Roast lightly two Wild Ducks, and when cold cut
them into joints and skin them ; take out the worst
pieces, and with the skin put them in a stewpan ; add
three onions, sliced and fried in butter a light brown, four
peppercorns, two clo ves, two shallots, 2oz. of sugar, 4 salt-
spoonful of salt, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of plain beef gravy,
and 1 breakfast-cupful of Bordeaux wine. Let this sim-
mer at the side of a good fire till reduced to about
1 pint. Work together loz. each of flour and butter,
skim the fat off the gravy, and stir in gradually while
boiling the flour and butter. Put the stewpan over a
sharp fire, keeping the lid off, and reduce to l pint, then
add the pieces of Duck. When hot through, dish, garnish
with croutons of fried bread, and serve.
(3) Roast a Wild Duck, and when cold cut the meat up
into small pieces. Put the bones and trimmings of the
bird into a stewpan, with two finely-minced shallots and
a sufficient quantity of brown stock to make the gravy,
season to taste with salt and pepper, and boil gently for
half- an hour. Strain the gravy through a fine hair sieve
into another stewpan, and mix with it 2 wineglassfuls of
port wine, 1 table-spoonful each of mushroom ketchup
and Worcestershire sauce, and 1 teaspoonful of chilli vinegar.
Put the pieces of cold Duck in with the gravy, and boil
gently for fifteen minutes or so until quite hot. Mix 1
teaspoonful of lemon juice and a small quantity of cayenne
pepper with the salmis, turn it on to a hot dish, and
serve.
Salmis of Wild Duck -with Mushrooms. — Prepare the
birds and half roast them. When they are cold, trim off
the skin, and cut them into nice-sized pieces ; put the
trimmings of the birds with the livers and gizzards
into a stewpan with two chopped shallots, some brown
stock, and salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. When the
stock boils, move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and
keep it simmering for an hour. Put loz. of butter in a
stewpan with 1 table-spoonful of flour, and stir it over the
fire until mixed but not browned, then strain in the above
gravy and stir it until somewhat thickened. Put the game
into the gravy with h pint of button -mushrooms, and
keep them simmering gently at the side of the fire until
very hot. Turn the salmis on to a hot dish, and garnish
with crofttons of fried bread or sippets of toast and slices
of lemon. Serve the salmis with as little delay as possible.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, • fee., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
777
WILD FOWL. — See Wild Duck, Wild Goose, &c.
WILD GOOSE. — This bird, the progenitor of the
domestic Goose, is not usually considered worthy of the
cook’s attention. In exceptionally cold weather, it is
found frequenting some parts of the lowland country, and
when caught may he cooked as follows :
Baked Wild Goose with Giblet Sauce. — Take two or three
Wild Geese, cut oft' their wings and legs at the first joint,
draw them, keeping all the g.blets (except the heart), with
the neck cut off close to the body, for the sauce. Wash
the birds thoroughly, and put them into a baking-pan
with a little water, dripping, and salt ; dust them over
with pepper, and cover them with slices of fat pork, or a
little of the suet out of a loin of beef beaten to a sheet.
Put the pan in the oven, and when the pork is browned
and shrunken, lay a piece of lalttered paper over them
all ; baste frequently and bake for three hours. The water
will have evaporated by the time they are done. Poll
them well in the glaze and fat, put them on a dish, and
serve with giblet sauce. In plucking a Wild Goose, it is
not necessary to scald it.
Baked Wild Goose with Mushroom or Celery Sauce. —
Pluck, singe, and draw a Wild Goose, and steep it in
salted water for several hours. Cut an onion into slices,
put it in the inside, sew it up, and plunge it into a
saucepan of boiling water for twenty minutes. Take it
out, remove the onion from the inside, stuff the bird with
a little celery and mashed potatoes, a few hard-boiled
eggs, and a little fat pork, or any other cold meat, all
very finely chopped ; also a grated turnip, a little chopped
onion, 1 table spoonful of pepper vinegar, and salt and
pepper to taste. Sew it up, truss it, put it in a baking-
dish with a teacupful of stock or broth, brush over with
warmed butter, dust it with flour, put a piece of well
buttered paper over the breast, and bake in a moderate
oven till done. Place it on a dish, and pour over it either
its own gravy and a little mushroom or celery sauce.
Garnish the dish with sprays of watercress (see Fig. 1059),
and serve.
Braised Wild Goose with Sour-crout. — Select a bird that
has been hanging up for several days, pluck, draw, wash,
and wipe it inside, put into it a bunch of sweet herbs,
and truss it. Place a layer of vegetables and trimmings
of fat bacon at the bottom of a braising-pan, lay the
Goose on this, lift the pan to half the height of the bird
with broth and t pint of white wine, dust over with salt,
and add a few cloves, peppercorns, and sweet herbs ; put
a sheet of buttered paper over all, place the pan over a
moderate fire, cover the lid with hot ashes, turn the Goose
once or twice, and let it braise for several hours. When
done, take it out, drain, remove the string of the trussing,
and place it on a dish on a garnish of cooked sour-crout.
Strain the stock through a sieve, skim off the fat, set it
on the fire to reduce it to half glaze, and serve separately
in a sauceboat.
WILD TURKEY. — See Turkeys.
WILHELM’S QUELLE. — See Aerated Water.
WILTSHIRE BACON. — See Bacon.
WINDSOR BEANS. — See Beans.
WINDSOR CREAM. — See Cream.
WINES (Fr. Vins; Ger. Weine ; Ital. Vini; Sp.
Vinos). — Next in importance to the service of viands is
that of the beverages to accompany them. Chief of all
these stands out the giant of ages, which Dr. Dupre
describes as the “fermented juice of the grape.” The
juices of other fruits are sometimes fermented, and
might be included under the generic title of Wines, but
to the palate of the epicure these are altogether unknown,
or absolutely ignored as unworthy the least consideration.
Nevertheless, under British Wines and other special
headings, ample evidence may be found to prove that
Wines from other fruits, such as currant, gooseberry, and
rhubarb, may be produced that rival many a grape Wine,
even if they are not occasionally employed as an un-
known, and therefore unappreciated, substitute. These
“pretentious usurpers,” as they have been erratically
styled, are fully discussed elsewhere ; the Wines for con-
sideration under this heading are strictly those produced
from the juice of the grape, and will be found sufficiently
numerous and interesting to occupy as much space as can
be afforded in this Encyclopaedia to the subject.
The history of Wine is rooted so deeply in the darkness
of ages that no reliable record is to be found of its birth
and discovery. It has been attributed to Noah, because m
the ninth chapter of Genesis we are informed that “ Noah
awoke from his Wine.” Noah was well acquainted with
the luscious juice of the grape before he entered the ark;
but whether he had undergone any experience of it in a
fermented state prior to his notorious alcoholic obfusca-
tion, is a matter that has not yet been decided, in spite
of the keenest theological argument and research. He
evidently knew the value of grapes, for he had no sooner
landed from the ark, according to Scripture history,
than “ he began to be a husbandman, and planted a vine-
yard ” with vines that he must have taken with him into
the ark.
The first faint traces we have of the cultivation of the
grape and the manufacture of Wine come from Asia;
thence, according to Humboldt, it passed into Greece, and
thence into Sicily. It was introduced into France by
the Phoenicians, when those Ionian colonists fled from
the power of Cyrus and founded the city of Marseilles,
about 540 b.c. In an article contributed by Mr. R.
Thompson to Lindley’s “ Treasury of Botany,” he tells
us that “ From Greece or from Sicily it (the vine) could
have been easily introduced into Italy. The Romans
planted it on the banks of the Rhine, and even, it is said,
in Britain. But Tacitus mentions, B.c. 55, that our climate
was thought unpropitious to the vine, which failed to
mature its fruit owing to the moist atmosphere of our
island. It would appear from this that its cultivation had
been attempted, for otherwise its failure could not have
been asserted. The same author states that it was not
known when Agricola commanded the island. Domitian
restricted the cultivation of the vine, wishing rather to
encourage that of grain; but in A.d. 278 permission to
plant the vine was given by the Emperor Probus. Being
free from restriction, its cultivation throughout the pro-
vinces, including Britain, would, of course, extend ; and
before the Roman power had so far declined as to permit
the Saxon invasion, vineyards must have existed in
this country. They are mentioned in the earliest Saxon
charters, and those vineyards must have existed pre-
viously ; for, as authors have remarked, the combating
invaders could neither have bad the time nor probably
the skill to plant them. The monks in a.d. 1140 planted
a vineyard at Edmondsbury in Suffolk, and William of
Malmesbury says that vineyards were possessed by
barons as well as by monks. W inton, afterwards named
by the Saxons Winchester, or the city of Wine, was so-
called because there was the best vintage in Britain.”
From the failure to cultivate the grape for Wine-
making in Britain it must not be inferred that the
Britons were not fond of Wine, nor that they have fallen
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778
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
off in their taste, as the advancing ages promoted their
civilisation. On the contrary, statistics go far to prove
that if Wine could be produced as cheaply in this country
as in France or Italy, the consumption of it would in a
great measure take the place of beer; in which case
the average British consumption per head would exceed
that of any other country. As it is, the average Wine-
consumption in England has increased during the past
few years with giant strides, due, perhaps, to the greater
wealth of the people, or to the less costly price of the
supplies — increase of numbers is not sufficient to account
for the development.
When we come to consider that a very trifling
difference in the mode of production may produce a
different quality of Wine, and that each vintage of
Wine varies in itself, it is not surprising that Wine
nomenclature is as complicated and confusing as the
dicta of the Delphi Oracle. Spon informs us in an
article on Wines that “the composition and properties
of different Wines are influenced by a vast number of
conditions and circumstances. The climate of the country,
the nature of the season, the soil in which the vines
are grown, the variety of grape, the mode of culture, the
time of gathering, the treatment of the gathered fruit,
the mode of fermenting the must, the temperature and
length of time of preservation, — all these, and numerous
considerations of minor importance, have a direct in-
fluence upon the composition and quality of Wine.”
Little or nothing therefore can be gathered from the
name of a Wine, no evidence of its quality can be relied
upon from that to guide the selection; but noted Wine-
producers are not slow to assist Wine-drinkers in making
a choice according to their desires, by classifying the
Wines and maintaining their supplies at a uniform flavour
and bouquet. There can be no lack of reason then in
adopting for this purpose the same classification as used
by the most noted Wine-producers of France.
W e will take as a basis an official notice recently issued
by the French Director-General of Customs, to the effect
that no liquors are to be classed as “ Wines ” which “ are
not the pure juice of the fresh grape.” All those inferior
beverages known to the French people as “ Yins de Com-
position,” “Les Piquettes Alcoolisees,” “ Vins Doub lees,”
and “ Vins de Marc ” are to be excluded from the
category of Wines. Some of these are merely Wine diluted
with water, sugar added, and re-fermented ; or water with
sugar poured over Wine lees, and fermented ; or Wines
made up in different ways with various “ compositions.”
This edict should be protective in the highest degree ; but
unfortunately it is not so strictly enforced concerning
Wines for exportation, especially to England, conse-
quently we are apt to get a liberal allowance of
“compositions ” sold to us as the pur£ article. Wines of a
“ composite ” character are sold largely in this country,
either adulterated or “substituted” here during the
process of bottling, or before it leaves the coast of France.
Sometimes it is to be feared that it suffers at both ends of
the journey, and in many cases Wines named after the
finest productions of France are little better than Wines
from the juices of British-grown fruits, “toned” and
“ blended ” to suit the customer’s palate.
The foregoing remarks concerning Wine adulteration
refer chiefly to cheap Wines ; but the very best are occa-
sionally tampered with in the matter of colouring,
sweetening, brandying, &c.
The Wines of different countries vary greatly, depending
chiefly upon soil and climate ; for grapes grown in one
country will produce a Wine that differs materially from
that produced from the same kind of grapes grown in
another country. Indeed, it is probable that of the great
number of variously named vines, each producing a
different charactered grape, all originated from one stock,
Wines — continued.
and are but the results of skilful or accidental cultivation.
In pursuance of this theory the following may be quoted
from a modern popular writer on the subject : “ Thus it
happens that one vineyard, perhaps separated from the
other by merely a few stakes, and without particular
difference of soil, culture, or aspect, may produce a far
superior Wine (from the same kind of grapes) to its neigh-
bour.” Sir Emmerson Tennant informs us that: "The
finest-known Wines are the produce of soils the combina-
tion and proportions of whose ingredients are extremely
rare and exceptional ; and co-operating with these, they
require the agency of peculiar degrees of light, moisture,
and heat. The richest Wines of France, Italy, Hungary,
Madeira, and Teneriffe are grown on the sites of extinct
volcanoes.” In the vineyards of Medoc, near Bordeaux,
where the finest Wines in the world are produced, the vines
are of stunted growth, rarely rising above 2ft. from the
ground, and producing grapes not unlike over-ripe black
currants. It is rather opposed to the romantic notions of
the uninitiated that these grapes, known as “ Cabernet,”
produce the famous St. Julien, Chateau Margaux, and
Lafite. Surely such Wines should be from the juice of
large luscious grapes that grow in swelling bunches on a
loftily-spreading vine !
“Let us now direct our attention,” writes Mi-. William
Terrington, “ to the glorious vintage-season, the annual
festival of Medoc — October, ‘ the Wine-montli ’ as it is
called — when the ruby tears of the grape are made into
the most delicious beverage — a Wine destined to find a
welcome at the halls and palaces of wealthy epicures in
various countries. For weeks previously, the weather is
anxiously watched from day to day ; for upon a con-
tinuance of weeks of fine weather the savour and bouquet
of the Wine essentially depend. Warmed by the glare of
an unclouded sun, tempered by mild westerly winds, and
moistened by dews, the grapes ripen and attain their
exquisite flavour. When all is ready for the gathering,
every one is astir. The contents of the vehicles which
come loaded from the vineyard are no sooner deposited in
the cuvier, or Wine-press, than the treaders jump in and
proceed to stamp out the juice, standing in it almost up
to their knees.
“ The press is supplied with holes in the side near the
bottom, through which the juice runs out, and passing
through a sieve is strained from the husks into vessels
below. The treaders continue thus employed till all the
juice has passed through into the vessels below. It takes
nearly an hour to tread out all the juice from a good-
sized cuvier. The juice is then emptied from the receiving
vessels into large vats, and the residue remaining
in the cuvier is added to the juice in the vats.
When these are sufficiently full, the fermentation
proceeds ; and so powerful is the emanation of car-
bonic-acid gas, that no one can enter farther than
the doorway. There the listener may hear strange bub-
blings solemnly echoing in the cool and dark hall, which
proclaim that a great change is taking place (see
Fermentation) — that these vats of mawkish, sweet juice
are being converted into noble and generous Wine. There
is something wonderful in this mysterious change.
Nature will have no intrusion during her mystic opera-
tions. The atmosphere around and near the vats would
be death to any who should venture near, fenced in as
the vats are during the grand transmutation by a halo of
stifling carbonic gas.”
As fermentation proceeds, the fruit rises to the top of
the must, forming a thick crust or “ head,” which is
broken up and stirred into the body of the Wine at least
three times a day, lest it turn sour by contact with the
air, and thus affect the lot. After fermentation has
subsided, the Wine is drawn off into clean casks and
clarified.
Although the fermentation of the Wine is a purely
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THE EE CYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
779
Wines — continued.
natural process, it can be retarded or hyper-excited by
irregular or unsuitable temperatures. Science lias
proved that in order to procure the best results from
fermentation a steady temperature of 75deg. Fahr. should
be maintained, which, under ordinary climatic variations,
is next to impossible. A celebrated French chemist,
Audibert, invented an ingenious apparatus by which a
constant temperature can be maintained in the Wine
throughout the period of fermentation. It is therefore
exceptionally appropriate to the manufacture of British
Wines, the climate here being less reliable than it is on
the Continent during the vintage season. By the
courtesy of Mr. J. Gilbert Smith we are enabled to give a
drawing and a graphic description of this important
contrivance (see Fig. 1060).
The principle of the apparatus is that of maintaining an
equilibrium of temperature throughout the process,
which should be, as we have shown, steady at 7odeg.
Fahr. The system of heating portions of the must, and
adding continually, is not only awkward,
but gives unsatisfactory results ; there-
fore the invention of Audibert is cer-
tainly worthy of every attention, for
it comes to the rescue of the discomfited
vintner, whose greatest difficulty con-
sists in this keeping up a regular
75deg. By using Audibert’s apparatus
the whole process is at command, and
the temperature can be regulated to the
fraction of a degree
by merely the turning
of a tap. And of
what does this appa-
ratus consist? Very
little beyond the
utensils required in
any sort of Wine-
making — a few
lengths of piping
and taps, a small
stove, a reservoir,
tanks, &c., and you
have the whole thing
complete, and the re-
sult of your Wine-
making no longer a
question of doubt or
difficulty.
The tun f, which
we shall call the must-
tun, is very solidly
made of pitch pine,
and contains a little over 50 hectolitres (between 1,100
and 1,200 gallons of must), n is a cold-water cistern,
fixed high enough above the vats to give a slight pres-
sure, so as to keep up the circulation. For the same
reason the bottom of the tun F is some 16in. above the
bottom of the tuns m, m, m.
After crushing the grapes, the mass is thrown into F
by means of a door in the top, which can be readily
removed. Through this door pass four tubes, reaching to
the bottom of the tun, and perforated throughout their
length; they communicate by union joints with the tube
E, which conveys the warm water from the 22-tube heater
a into the mass of the crushed fruit, F having been
filled, and the fire lighted under the heater A ; the top of
F is luted down with flour paste or clay, so as to be
perfectly air-tight, the safety tube R being left open.
Before the fire is lighted under the heater, cold water is
allowed to flow into it through the movable tube O, down B
or c. The water, as it is heated, rises through the tube c (or
B, at discretion), and passing through the vessel d, is con-
veyed through the tube E into the four perforated tubes
W ines — continued.
just described, in the very centre of the crushed grapes.
The tube c is provided with a thermometer, so that as
soon as the water reaches a temperature of 158deg. Fahr.
the supply may be diminished until it gradually cools
down to 122deg. Water of this temperature quickly
dissolves out the sugar, salts, tannin, &c., of the fruit
pulp, the must thus formed falling to the bottom of the
vat, and passing, by means of the tube G, into the fermen-
tation vats M, M, m, where it speedily begins to
ferment.
The precautions to be observed at this part of the
process are: Not to light the fire under the heater A until
it is full of water ; always to leave the tap in the tube c
open; not to allow the hot water to How through the tube
c until it indicates 158deg. Fahr., and never to allow it to
fall below 122deg. ; and lastly, not to hurry the action
of the hot water on the crushed fruit. This part of
the operation should last at least three days, by which
time the crushed fruit ought to be thoroughly ex-
hausted.
A sample of must should be drawn from the tun f from
time to time through the tap inserted for that pui'pose,
and tested by the saccharometer until it is ascertained
that the whole of the saccharine matter has been extracted
from the marc. All communication is now cut off
between the liot-water apparatus A and the must-tun F
by turning the tap in c. Hitherto the contents of the
fermenting tuns m, m, m, have been kept sufficiently
warm on account of a constant stream of warm must
flowing into them; but now that the supply of
warm must is cut off, other means must be adopted
for keeping up the temperature. In order that fer-
Fig. 1060. Audibkrt'.s Wine making Apparatus.
mentation may begin and proceed under the most favour-
able circumstances, the temperature in the fermenting-
tuns must be maintained at from 86deg. to 95deg. Fahr.
When the tap in the return tube J and the tap in the
supply tube B are opened, the hot water from the heater
A circulates up the tube b, through D, along the pipe h, h,
Avhich may supply more vats than shown in the illustra-
tion, down the vertical pipes i, i, i. Each of these latter
pipes is fitted with a regulating tap, so as to shut off the
supply to the vat to which it is attached. The hot water
passes down the vertical supply pipes into large cheese-
shaped chambers constructed of tinned copper, which
occupy the very centres of the vats. These chambers
communicate at their lower parts with the return-tube J.
It will be seen from the foregoing description of the
apparatus that the fermenting must in the A'ats M, M, M,
&c., can easily be regulated to any degree of heat likely to
be required for fermentation, and that one can be regu-
lated without interfering with the other — a very great con-
sideration, as otherwise the first vat would be the hottest,
the next not so hot, and so on throughout the remainder.
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780
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
It is not often that the must would require cooling in
the vats M, M, M, but should such an occasion occur, the
hot-water supply could be cut off, and cold water turned
on instead, by connecting the cold water tank N with the
pipe H, h, through the movable tube O.
Bach fermenting vat is provided with a syphon tube
of indiarubber p, which dips into a vessel of water, and
allows the carbonic acid produced by the fermentation to
escape. This is shown in operation on the first vat.
If the must is kept at the prescribed temperature
throughout the operation, the whole batch of Wine may
be finished in ten days ; an occasional glance at the
thermometers L, L, L, and a touch of the taps letting in
hot water at discretion, being all that is necessary to
ensure success in the fermentation, and thus producing
in any climate the highest quality of Wine.
It must not be supposed that the foregoing description
gives anything more than the merest outline of Wine-
making, there being other processes and combinations of
processes to which the Wine must further be subjected,
in many instances of so complicated and mysterious a
character that it would be impossible to describe them
fully in less than a number of volumes. Sufficient details
of manufacture have been given for our purpose ; it is
next with varieties that we have to deal.
The system of classification of Wines adopted in
France is as follows :
1. Grands Vins.
2. Vins Fins.
3. Vins Ordinaires.
4. Vins Communs.
In class 1 ( Grands Vins) are to be found such famous
Wines as Chateau Lafite, Chateau Margaux, Chateau
d’Yquem, Romance Conti, Cliambertin, Clos Vougeot,
Montrachet, &c.
In class 2 (Vins Fins) are included Saint Estephe, Saint
Julien, Volnay, Pommard, Cote-Rotie, Chablis, &c.
In class 3 (Vins Ordinaires) are many with only a
moderate body and nothing very great in the way of
flavour.
In class 4 (Vins Communs) are found inferior Wines
that ai-e chiefly used for distilling Cognac, Armagnac,
or Trois-six of Languedoc.
However useful such a classification may be for com-
mercial purposes, it would be useless to the consumer,
who prefers to classify his Wines in a more general
manner. In Spon’s “ Encyclopaedia of Manufactures and
Raw Materials,” the following remarks as to a more prac-
tical classification are worth recording : “ Wines may be
divided into several different classes, according to the
point of view from which the classification is regarded.
The most obvious division is that of colour ; they may be
either ‘ white ’ or ‘ red.’
“ White Wines are prepared from both white and black
grapes, but the juice after expression is not allowed to
remain in contact with the skins and seeds of the black
variety, or it will extract the colouring matter.
“Red Wines are made from black grapes only, and the
must is allowed to lie upon the seeds and skins until it
has attained the desired colour, which is sometimes
assisted by the addition of other colouring matter, such
as logwood, mulberry-, elderberry-, or black-currant juice.
“ Wines are next classed as ‘ still ’ or ‘ sparkling,’ the
quality of ‘ sparkling ’ being attained by putting a
little cane sugar into the Wine before bottling, so as to
keep up a slow fermentation, and drawing the Wine into
bottles before the first fermentation has altogether
subsided.
“Then we have Wines that are ‘dry’ and ‘fruity,’
the former denoting the absence of free sugar, and the
latter an abundance of fruit sugar, giving to the Wine
a rich luscious taste.”
Wine merchants also class Wines as simple and
Wines — continued.
compounded, or mixed, the latter denoting a mixture of
two or more Wines for the purpose of blending their
distinctive qualities of taste, bouquet, and colour.
As individual Wines have been described under special
headings, such as Claret, Champagne, Port, Sherry,
&c., it will only be necessary for us here to make a few
general observations concerning these Wines, their quali-
ties and production.
The Wines of Bordeaux are familiarly known to us as
clarets. The popularity of claret has in this country
fluctuated very much, it having been at one time the
favourite drink of the upper classes. It now again
promises to become as popular in England as it was about
two hundred years ago, when our hostility to Louis XIV.
of France resulted in breaking off commercial relations
with that country, and opening up a trade with Portugal.
Champagne is the produce of vineyards in the depart-
ments of Aube, Ardennes, Marne, and Haut Marne.
These Wines are classified, according to the site of the
vineyards, into river or mountain growths, the former
being for the most part white, the latter red. A writer on
the subject tells us that “ Epernay, which is situated
between hills in the midst of vine-lands, may be
designated the head-quarters of champagne ; for here, and
in its immediate vicinity, is the best vine-land, the most
extensive cellarage, and the finest palatial residences of
the more eminent manufacturers. The cellarage of one
firm alone, that of Moet and Chandon, is said be live miles
in extent, all cut out of the calcareous rock, and containing
on an average five million bottles of Wine. There are other
cellars equalling the above-named for vastness and capacity,
and in them is stowed the Wine of manu facturers whose
names and brands are known to the whole civilised
world.”
Champagne is recommended by physicians as a valuable
stimulant and tonic ; but bad or fictitious champagne is
highly injurious to health. To judge whether it is good
or bad is not by any means an easy task, as brands and
names of best manufacturers are very closely imitated.
Mr. Braude tells us : “ The prevalent notion that a glass
of champagne cannot be too quickly swallowed is erro-
neous ; and it is no bad test of the quality of champagne
to have it exposed for some time in a wineglass, when,
if originally of the highest order, it will be found to have
lost its carbonic-acid gas, but to have retained its body
and flavour, which had before been concealed by its
effervescence. Champagne, therefore, should not be
drunk till this effervescence is over, by those who would
relish the above characteristic quality.”
Adjoining the champagne district in the south is the
ancient province of the Dukes of Burgundy — les princes
des bons vins. Burgundy is stronger than claret, and
possesses an exquisite aroma, which, with its delicious full-
bodied flavour, crown it in the estimation of epicures as
the very king of Wines.
White and red Hermitage derive that name from the
ruins of an old hermitage that still exists on the
summit of the hill, on whose slopes are planted the vines
which yield the choicest quality. Red Hermitage is full
bodied, of a dark purple colour, and very fine perfume
and flavour. The colour fades somewhat after long keeping,
just as that of port changes to a “ tawny.” There are five
kinds of Hermitage, the best being Fr milage paille.
Roussillon Wines, from the borders of the Mediter-
ranean, are very deep-coloured full-bodied Wines.
Masden is a bright red Wine ; “ with a bouquet not unlike
claret, yet partaking of a port character,” is the
description given, with the additional remark that it is
often substituted for port to be sold in England.
The Rhine Wines are regarded by Dr. Henderson “ as
constituting a distinct order by themselves. Some of the
higher sorts, indeed, resemble very much the Vins
de Grave, but in general they are drier than the French
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THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
781
Wines — continued.
white Wines, and are characterised by a delicate
flavour and aroma, called in the country gave, which is
quite peculiar to them, and of which it would be vain
to attempt the description. A notion prevails that they
are naturally acid ; the inferior kinds are no doubt so,
but this is not the constant character of the Rhine Wines,
which in good years have not any perceptible acidity to
the taste — at least, not more than is common to those
of the growth of warmer regions. But their chief
distinction is their extreme durability, in which they are
not surpassed by any other species of Wine.”
Moselle is a Wine that is thought in some degree to
resemble Rhine Wines. A sparkling Moselle which finds
its way in great quantities to this country is made from
unripe grapes, to which is added a flavouring of musk or
elder-flowers to give the bouquet peculiar to the best
kinds of Moselle Wines.
Port Wine has formed the staple Wine of our dinner-
tables and desserts for the last 160 years. It is procured
from districts in Portugal called the Douro and Traz-
os-montes. The choicest vineyards are situated on a
succession of hills on eacn side of the river Douro, distant
about 50 miles from Oporto, from which place the Wine
derives its name, Porto or Oporto Wine. The vintages are
said to be divided into “ factory Wines,” reserved for the
English market, and “assorted Wines,” for home con-
sumption. A writer of some note observes : “ Of the
excellence of genuine port Wine many a travelling con-
noisseur can testify who has drums it on the spot and
enjoyed the full mellow body, exquisite flavour, and
seducing . mildness of the pure, unmixed juice of the
grape ; but after the ‘ blending ’ and adulterations to
which the choice Wines of the Alto Douro are subjected
in order to reduce them to tne orthodox port standard,
it would be just as reasonable to expect the product
to be good as to hope to increase the quantity of true
Burgundy, of Clos Vougeot or Romance Conti, by
turning the inferior Yins du Pays into a vat containing
the precious Wine of the province.”
Professor Brande suggests that “ good port Wine duly
kept is, when taken in moderation, one of the most whole-
some of vinous liquors : it strengthens the muscular
system, assists the digestive powers, accelerates the
circulation, exhilarates the spirits, and sharpens the
mental energies ; but, when taken in excess, it is perhaps
the most mischievous of Wines, and most likely to
produce those permanent derangements of the digestive
organs which follow the habitual use of distilled spirits.”
A vast quantity of spurious port Wine is imported into
this country from the Channel Islands. It is said that
from 210 pipes of genuine port sent to the Channel Islands,
no less than 2,072 pipes of "doctored” Wine were exported
to England.
The “ crust ” that forms in a bottle of port is con-
sidered a criterion of its quality; it consists of the
bitartrate of potash (cream of tartar), which is only
sparingly soluble in Wine, and a connoisseur looks for
some crystals of it on the bottom of the cork.
Port Wine, when tawny from age, loses much of its
astringency, and acquires a slightly acid taste, when it
is not so wholesome as a full-bodied, sweet, new Wine,
even though brandy has been added to it to make it
keep. Mr. Paget wrote : “ It is a fallacy to suppose
that such a thing exists as pure port Wine — that is,
without an admixture of brandy. On the first arrival
of each pipe of Wine at Villa Nova, a certain quantity
of this spirit is immediately added ; for without it the
Wine would not keep.”
Sherry derives its name from Xeres de la Frontera, a
town in Andalusia. It is the produce of the vineyards of
Xeres de la Frontera, Santa Maria, and San Lucar de Bar-
rameda, watered by the rivers Guadalquiver and Guadalete. |
It has been alleged that sherry is a compounded Wine, |
Wines — continued.
but this is not so. The best pale and light golden sherries
are made from the pure grape, with the addition of a
very small proportion of brandy. Neither are the deep
golden and brown sherries, of the best quality, com-
pounded Wines, though they may be called “ mixed ”
Wines, seeing that they are coloured by mixing with
them a proportion of arrope (sherry boiled down to one-
fifth of its original bulk, and therefore assuming a dark
colour). Pale sherries are undoubtedly the purest, but the
colouring used is sherry also, although in a concentra-
ted state. Sherries, therefore, must be judged by taste
and smell, and not by colour.
The finest, driest, and most valuable of sherries is the
Amontillado, so called from its possessing a peculiar
flavour that cannot be described, nor can its presence
be accounted for. It is described as a mystery of nature
that lias not been solved. We are informed by an
authority, that “ when the farmers intend making their
(Amontillado) Wine, the grapes are plucked about a
fortnight before the general vintage, and the produce
kept apart; out of twenty butts, however, it generally
happens not above two will have the quality so much
desired. Sometimes, as if by caprice, a butt of Wine
from the general vintage will assume the Amontillado
flavour.” When pure, sherries are stimulating and
dietetic.
“ Some idea,” says a writer, “ may be conceived of the
vast amount of Wine stored in Xeres, where in the ware-
house or bodegas of M. Domecq alone is, on an average,
stored 15,000 butts of Wine, each butt averaging 108
gallons, bottling from 50 to 52 dozen to the butt. These
bodegas are large warehouses, very lofty and well
ventilated, and are filled with tiers of four butts of W ine
(soleras). A visit to a bodega, if accompanied by the
capitaz (head man), will be worthy of remembrance,
as one of an agreeable nature, especially so if his
explanations are rendered more intelligible by a bumper
drawn from the most ancient ‘ madre ’ butt, which
invariably contains Wine that is the accumulated produce
of some fifty vintages.” The Wine-mercliants of Xeres
never export their stock of the oldest and finest Wines,
and in accordance with the price at which they are
valued so the Wines are compounded. Thus a butt of
Wine said to be thirty or forty years old will contain a
portion of the vintage of several seasons, for, as the Wine
is drawn from the butt, it is replenished by a contribution
from the next in point of age and fineness, and so on
through the bodegas.
Of the sweet and deeply-coloured Wines of Andalusian
production, Paxarette and Rota Tente are the most
famous, the latter oemg known to us as a sacramental
Wine. Yal de Penas is a Wine made near Manzanares,
and resembles Burgundy.
Madeira Wine takes its name from the island pro-
ducing it. In colour it is darker than the average sherry,
and as it is said to improve by a voyage to a warm
climate, a kind called “ London Particular ” is shipped to
the East or West Indies, landed there for a short spell,
and then exported to England. That which goes to the
East Indies is considered to have a softer flavour than
that going to the West, owing to the warmer climate of
the East. As a stimulant Madeira equals, if it does not
excel, port, and when in fine condition may truly be
called a generous Wine ; although, perhaps, not so well
suited to an invalid’s requirements, having a somewhat
larger proportion of acid. Malmsey Madeira is reckoned
to be a very choice Wine ; it is produced at a small spot
in the valley of the Carnal de Lobos. Canary is another
good Wine of the Madeira species.
Marsala resembles Madeira in some respects, especially
in colour and slightly in taste. It is made in the Island
of Sicily.
Malaga is a dry Wine of a sherry character, and is
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, Ac., referred to, see under their special heads.
782
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
either white or red. A great deal of it is brought to Santa
Maria, Cadiz, and shipped thence as sherry. Malaga is
noted as having three vintages per annum — the first in
June, producing a rich sweet Wine; the second in
October, producing a good sherry ; and the third in
November from the mountains, the Wines being described
as “ sweet, luscious, and dry.”
The Wines of Algeria are rapidly improving in quality,
the soil and climate being exceptionally favourable for
grape growing ; they are likely to become very popular. In
Austria and Hungary some fine Wines are prepared,
notably Imperial Tokay.
Besides those Wines already mentioned, others are to be
met with in abundance, and, when of sufficient importance,
are described under their own headings. Those of which
little or no mention is made may be regarded as valuable
only for mixing. This is especially the case with Colonial
Wines, some of the best being consumed locally, and
the worst used as the basis for others.
In concluding this part of the subject we may repeat
the words used in an important contemporary as sum-
marising the question of the qualities of Wines. “ The
Wines of the South of France are strongly alcoholic,
stimulating, and of a warm flavour. Some of them are
highly aromatic and saccharine, and all possess a fine
delicate aroma. Those of Champagne and Burgundy are
moderately alcoholic, full-bodied, and delicately perfumed.
They are both red and white. The Spanish Wines, port,
sherry, and Madeira, are the most alcoholic Wines made ;
the former is dark in colour, and the two latter are white
or golden ; all of them have an exquisite bouquet. The
Wines from the Rhine are dry and acid, of a light
flavour, and poor in alcohol, and of a fine golden colour.
Bordeaux Wines (clarets) are tonic and astringent,
nutritive, stomachic, and of a delicate flavour and per-
fume. Those of Tokay, Alicante, Malaga, Malvesie, and
Cyprus are very saccharine, tonic, and stimulating.”
Qualities of Wine. — Some very practical remarks
on the testing of Wines have been contributed to Spoil’s
“Encyclopaedia of Manufactures and Raw Materials,”
and as they give hints that are valuable, they are repro-
duced here :
“ The good or bad qualities of a Wine may be recognised
by the application of three senses — sight, smell, and
taste. An eye accustomed to the examination of Wines
can readily discover whether the colour is homogeneous or
not, and whether it is natural or artificial. By the sense
of smell the aroma of different Wines is distinguished
one from another; this method of examination becomes
an almost infallible indicator when the organs of smell
are extremely sensitive. The sense of taste, when care-
fully exercised, is the most to be relied on. When a Wine
is pure and unadulterated, the different component
principles are blended together, forming a perfectly
homogeneous whole, which leaves one flavour only upon
the tongue and the roof of the mouth; but when the
Wine is the result of a mixture, the constituents are not
intimately combined but merely loosely mixed. By
keeping such Wine in the mouth for a short time, the
warmth volatilises the lighter and more volatile con-
stituents, rendering them at once sensible to the roof of
the mouth, while the extractive and heavier matters
are made evident to the tongue and lower part of the
mouth ; if the Wine has been diluted with water, it is
detected at once by a practised taster, by a sensation
of flatness and insipidity.”
Several instruments, such as saccharometers, thermo-
meters, oenometers, and others, are frequently used in the
testing of Wine, and ascertaining its saccharine, vinous,
and alcoholic properties. See Alcohol.
Besides a natural difference in quality, all Wines are
subject to influences which detract very considerably
from their value, some of which are preventible, others
Wines — continued.
curable, whilst some render the Wine completely lost.
Those which are due to causes that may be regarded as
unaccountable or unpreventible are classed as natural
disorders; these are ropiness, sourness, bitterness, and
loss of colour. Other disorders may be the result of
frost, exposure to the air, or taints from the cask, mouldi-
ness, and the use of bad eggs in clarifying.
From the writings of an expert in Wines we gain the
following information : When a Wine becomes ropy, it
loses its fluidity, and becomes oily. White Wines are
subject to this disorder, and especially those which have
not been allowed to complete their fermentation. It occurs
chiefly after a rainy season, when the Wine contains but
little tartar and tannin. It rarely needs special treatment,
as the Wine usually recovers in the course of time ; if it
does not, a good cure is to add 30 grammes of pure tannin
dissolved in half a litre of alcohol at 85deg. to a hogs-
head, and to whip the mixture well in.
Sourness is the most common disorder of all Wines ; it
occrn-s chiefly in Wines fermented in the presence of air.
To avoid it, the casks destined to receive Wine should be
sulphured ; great care must be taken to allow as little
contact with air as possible, both during fermentation
of the must and the several racking operations. It is
almost impossible to permanently restore a Wine which
has advanced far in this malady, since it almost invari-
ably re-appears after a length of time, however much
care be taken to avoid it. The best way out of the diffi-
culty is, either to mix it with a sweet Wine for
immediate consumption, or to dispose of it to vinegar
manufacturers, the latter being by far the wisest and
most prudent course.
Bitterness is a disorder that is liable to affect aged
Wines, and especially Burgundy ; its presence is usually
announced by an alteration in the colour of the Wine. It
may sometimes be relieved by dissolving in the Wine an
ounce or so of tartaric acid and a small quantity of
tannin, according to the degree of bitterness. This
will generally suffice to restore the Wine to its natural
flavour, or arrest the malady. In the course of a few
days, after the additions have been made, the W ine should
be racked off again into a sulphured cask, clarified, and
purified with powdered vegetable charcoal.
“ One of the principal accidental alterations of Wine,”
says our authority, “ is the effect of heat.” Too high a
temperature in the cellar is likely to excite active fermen-
tation in the casks, which may result in the bursting of
the casks, and the entire loss of the Wine. To prevent
such a disaster, as soon as it can be ascertained that
fermentation has set up again, some of the Wine should
be drawn off, and air freely admitted to the cask to arrest
the process before it goes too far and spoils the Wine.
An effectual remedy is to fine with wood charcoal, and
rack off into sulphured casks.
The effect of intense cold upon Wine is peculiar, as a
portion of it becomes frozen. It is advisable then to draw
off the liquid Wine and leave the frozen part, which is
water only, to itself. The Wine is improved by this,
and greatly increased in strength ; but if the frozen
part he allowed to melt again whilst still in the unfrozen
Wine, the colour will certainly be greatly deteriorated.
Taints communicated to Wines from whatever cause,
whether from mouldy casks or bad eggs used in clari-
fying, are most difficult to remove. Frequent racking
into sulphured casks, the free use of vegetable charcoal,
whipping into it a quantity of very sweet oil, and skim-
ming it off again, may be resorted to with some hope
of success ; but, excepting as a mixing Wine it will not
be of much further value, as may be understood from
the following words of practical wisdom :
“ Wines which have been affected with any of the
disorders mentioned above, and successfully treated (sic),
should be at once disposed of for immediate consumption,
For details respecting Ordinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , <kc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
783
Wines — continued.
since the affection is liable to return, after a lapse of
time, with renewed energy. Ropiness is the only disorder
which it is possible to effectually and permanently cure.”
Wine sometimes becomes dead or flat from no ap-
parently assignable cause. This can be relieved by adding
new brisk Wine of the same kind; or by rousing in
21b. or 31b. of honey ; or by adding 511). or 61b. of bruised
Sultana raisins and 3qts. or 4qts. of brandy per hogshead.
By this treatment the Wine might be expected to recover
in a fortnight, if it be kept moderately warm. When it is
required for use in a day or so, a little fresh yeast should
be added and the cask of Wine kept in a temperature of
60deg. Fahrenheit.
For information concerning modes of fining, see Clari-
fying. White Wines are usually fined with isinglass,
about l^oz. (dissolved in H pints of water and thinned
with a little of the Wine) to the hogshead. Red Wines
are fined with the whites of eggs in the proportion of 15
or 20 to the pipe. Sometimes boiled shavings of harts-
horn, or pale French glue, is substituted for isinglass.
Weak or vapid Wines are mostly fortified by the
addition of brandy. In Portugal a very large proportion
of brandy is added to port before shipping it for England,
as otherwise it might probably set up an acetous fer-
mentation. “ By the regulation of the Customs of
England,” says Cooley, “ 10 per cent, of brandy may
be added to Wines in bond, and the increased quantity
is then only charged as the increased duty on Wine.”
The wisdom of brandying Wine is not always evident,
seeing that it interferes with the flavour, and can there-
fore only be safely used with such strong-flavoured Wines
as port, sherry, Malaga, &c. Even then the Wines so
brandied require to stand for some time to recover their
natural flavour. What is termed “ sweating in ” or
“fretting in ” is frequently resorted to for the purpose of
mellowing the brandied Wine. A second fermentation is
set up by dissolving in a hogshead of Wine 41b. or 51b. of
sugar or honey, a little yeast if necessary, and perhaps a
few bruised vine-leaves. It will require refining and
racking into sulplnued casks.
A very important process in preparing Wines for the
market is the practice of mixing, considerable art, skill,
and experience being required for the purpose. We are
informed by an expert that only a very few Wines are
sold without being mixed. It is thought that the intoxi-
cating qualities of Wine are increased, and the flavour
improved, by mixing them with Wines of a different
age and growth. Thus a thin port may be improved by
mixing a full-bodied port or a little new Malaga with it ;
or a little Teneriffe, rich sherry, or some other such.
An inferior old sherry would be improved by mixing
with it a little full-bodied Wine of the latest vintage.
Another difficulty the Wine-mixer has to contend with is
the varieties required for supplying different national
markets. For instance, the tastes of the majority of
Englishmen differ widely from the tastes of Russians ;
and the tastes of Russians differ from the tastes of
Germans, and so on. All these matters have to be
carefully studied and provided for; but as they are not
likely to enter into our dealings with Wines to anything
more than a very moderate degree, further reference to
it will be unnecessary.
With the operations of flavouring and perfuming
we have little to do, seeing that they are only practised
upon Wines from other fruits in order to make them
resemble grape Wines. Colouring is practised largely
upon grape Wines, either before or after importation.
Tincture or infusion of saffron (safflower) or turmeric
is used to impart or increase a golden-sherry yellow.
All shades of amber and fawn to deep brown and
brandy colour are given by burnt sugar. Cochineal
(either alone or with a little alum) gives a pink colour ;
beetroot and red sanders give a fine red ; the extracts
Wines — continued.
of rhatany and logwood, and the juice of elderberries,
bilberries, and other berries give or deepen a port-wine
hue.
Under the headings of Bottling and Corking full
instructions are given for bottling Wines, and reference
should be made to Cellaring, as important information
is given as to suitable temperatures and modes of sustain-
ing them. The bottles should be packed, or stacked, in
bins against an inner or underground wall, damp being
considered an aid to the preservation of the Wine. The
best bins are those which partake of the character of
racks, having a separate recess for each bottle. By this
provision the bursting of a bottle does not affect all above,
or lying on it, as it would if they were stacked in a pile.
Several different kinds of bottle stands or bins have been
invented, each having its own particular claims for con-
sideration, the chief merit being the same in each case —
convenience, order, and cleanliness, this latter being,
according to some authorities, a very unnecessary
attribute. Of all the racks for Wine bins that have been
invented, the best are undoubtedly those made upon the
following principles: No. 1 (see Fig. 1061) is made
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, etc. , referred to, see under their special heads.
784
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
entirely of iron, the recesses for bottles being formed by
bent iron hooping or ribbon iron riveted to uprights ; these
support the shoulder of the bottle, a second frame made
fast to the first supporting the bottles towards the bottoms.
No. 2 (see Fig. 1062) is upon the same principle, the iron
bands crossing each other diagonally. In No. 3 (see
Fig. 1063) the iron bands cross horizontally and vertically,
passing diagonally through horizontal square wooden bars,
Fig. 1064. Old-fashioned Wine-bin.
which hold together the two frames, back and front.
Any of these may be considered equally useful, No. 1
having an advantage in strength, durability, and simpli-
city. When these racks or stands are used it is advisable
to erect partitions at stated intervals, keeping from the
Fig. 1065. King’s Cellular Brick for Wine-bins.
bottles those currents of air that experts believe to be
injurious. Wine for keeping requires a uniform tem-
perature free from draughts of cold air, and for securing
this packing in bins built into the wall or earth was for-
Wines — continued.
merly resorted to (see Fig. 1064). That these had a decided
advantage over the iron racks and modern system of
storing cannot be denied — the temperature was better
preserved and the Wines were quite free from jarring;
but the bins were small and the bottles were piled on each
other. The statement that Wine is better stored in
close earth, brick, or earthenware cells led to the invention
of King’s cellular bricks (see Fig. 1065), which are much
used for erecting artificial cellular cellar walls (see
Fig. 1066. Wall Wine-bin, constructed of King’s Cellular Bricks.
Fig. 1066). The cost of these is an absolute gain when
compared with the manifold advantages to be derived
from them.
With regard to the age of Wines, they differ materially,
some improving and others deteriorating by keeping.
Sparkling Wines are in their prime in from eighteen to
thirty months after the vintage, depending in a measure
on the cellaring and climate. What are termed weak
Wines, or those of an infei’ior growth of grape, should be
consumed within twelve or fifteen months after ferment-
ing, and ought to be kept in a cool cellar. As regards
sound, well-fermented, good seasoned, full-bodied still
Wines, these are at all times improved by keeping, that
is to say, for a reasonable time and under favourable
conditions of storage and temperature.
Wines are matured by a slow process of fermentation
which takes place in air-tight vessels, such as bottles. In
casks, if exposed to a higher temperature than is required
for keeping, Wine is liable to acetify slowly, until the
whole becomes little better than vinegar. Tartness or
acidity is regarded by the ignorant as a proof of age — it
may be more correctly regarded as an indication of either
the cellar-keeper’s errors or inferior Wine. The change
that takes place during maturation is believed to be
an “ insensible fermentation,” due to the usual fermenting
vigour being kept in abeyance by the presence of alcohol,
lowness of temperature, and exclusion of air.
The promotion of maturation or “ripening” of Wines
is brought about by the adoption of various plans. One
of the safest, especially for strong Wines, is not to rack
(that is, fine and draw off) until they have stood fifteen or
eighteen months upon their lees, or keeping them whether
“ crude ” or “ racked ” at a temperature ranging between
50deg. and 60deg. Fahr. in a cellar that is quite free from
draughts and not too dry. Another mode of maturing
is to remove the bungs or corks, and tie a piece of Avet
bladder over the openings, taking care to make the
vessels so treated air-tight. Bottled Wine treated in this
Avay ripens very quickly if kept in a temperate situation.
“ Some dealers,” says Cooley, “ add a little dilute sulphuric
acid to the coarser Wines for the same purpose; but a
small quantity of concentrated acetic acid or tartaric
acid would be preferable, since these acids are found in all
Wines. Four or five drops of the former, added to a
For details res-pectx.no Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, die., referred to, see under their special heads.
Galantine of Eels in Jelly.
Galantine of Plovers.
Galantine of Partridges with Truffles.
Galantine of Larks on Stand.
ARTISTIC GALANTINES.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY .
785
Wines — continued.
bottle of some kinds of new Wine, immediately give it the
appearance of being two or three years old.”
Port Wine excels all other Wines in the formation of a
crust; this should, of course, be a natural product the
result of maturation, but it can be produced artificially,
as described by Cooley : “ To make port Wine form a
crust on the inside of the bottles, 1 spoonful (table-spoon-
ful probably) of powdered catechu, or 4 (table) spoonful
of finely-powdered cream of tartar, is added to each bottle
before corking it, after which the whole is well agitated.
It is also a common practice to put the crust on the bottle
before putting the Wine into it, by employing a hot
saturate solution of red tartar, thickened with gum and
some powdered tartar.” The “bees-wing” is a thinly or
delicately formed crust, which usually breaks off and
floats in the wine, or floats about as it forms. Connois-
seurs regard its presence with favour.
Timbs, in his “ Hints for the Table,” speaks of the
“ condition ” of Wine as follows : “ It is not always easy
to get good Wine, but the difficulty increases when
likewise we require good Wine in perfect condition. And
yet how should we be satisfied with less ? The better the
Wine the greater the loss if it be spoiled or deteriorated ;
but whatever the degree in quality, there is a state of it
(we mean after it has been sold for consumption) in
which it will not be fit for drinking. Condition, then, has
to be referred to under two heads : 1st, Chemical, that of
health as to fermentation ; 2nd, Mechanical, that of
brightness, by the absence of any feculent matter in
suspension. The first is very much the affair of the
Wine-merchant, since it should be his study to correct
such disorder in Wine, whether accidental or constitu-
tional. This will also often occur temporarily from
change of season or temperature, and be self -curative.
Indeed, all but very old Wine will be liable to occasional
derangement of condition from natural causes, and it is
after these perturbations that the deposit occurs, which
we have to speak of under our second heading on condi-
tion— namely, mechanical. Having reference, then, to
Wine in bottles, the state of turbidness referable to the
re-admixture of a deposit by agitation of the liquid,
though consistent with perfect healthiness in the Wine, is
not condition. Besides being displeasing to sight, Wine
in this state is impaired in flavour and bouquet, as well
as being less salutary. For, albeit there are degrees of
this ill-condition, some deposits being more pernicious
than others, it is always bad. What, in fact, is this
deposit but something eliminated from the Wine during
the process of its maturation? As might be supposed,
the results of that process — the deposit — are, when tasted
separately, found to be most unpalatable. Yet,
unnatural as is the reunion of the deposit with the Wine,
this is often, we may almost say generally, incurred
(more or less) by reason of the difficulty of avoiding it.
At rest in its bin the Wine will be bright ; but who shall
remove it, extract the cork, and separate perfectly the
bright and pure portion from the foul and bitter deposit ?
No. sooner is the bottle transferred from the position in
which it has lain than disturbance of the deposit is apt to
Wines — continued.
begin; if placed upright for drawing the cork there is
a partial subsidence, then follows the jolt attendant on
extraction of the cork, then the agitation inseparable
from pouring off, and in this way may be lost the
condition attained by keeping. Some attempts have from
time to time been made to palliate by mechanical aid
this inconvenience, but these contrivances have been so
imperfect as only to increase trouble without effecting
their object.
For pouring into a glass direct, we have the modern
port-wine basket (see Fig. 1067), which is a great boon to
port-wine drinkers ; but although the latter pours the
Wine off the deposit to a nicety, it does not get over the
evils consequent upon drawing the cork.
Epicures are of opinion that Wine should not be
decanted, but poured direct from the bottle into the glass.
This practice, however good in theory, would not be
practicable upon certain occasions of state, unless the
Wine was at first put into bottles of a decidedly more
ornamental character than those at present in use ; nor
could the beautiful dust, mould, and cobweb be any
indication of sort, seeing that in such a condition no
1 butler could possibly supply them to table. For the
I gourmet who dines by himself, Wines have no need to be
j decanted.
When convenient, Wines should lie decanted in the cellar,
j and poured into decanters warmed to the same tempera-
ture as the Wine. Port and other rich Wines should be
strained through fine cambric, and for this purpose a
funnel fitted with a removable ring (see Fig. 1068), to keep
the cambric in a convenient position for straining, is useful.
The small end of the funnel tube should be bent towards
the side of the decanter, directing the stream of Wine
down its side, and thus avoiding the evil influence of
contact with more air than necessary.
Some epicures advise subjecting port Wine and other
sweet rich Wines to a warming process in order to bring
out their full flavour. In most cases this is brought
about by standing the Wine near a fire; but an ingenious
contrivance is now made, which is essentially a case for
hot water filled with cylindrical recesses, into which the
bottles are placed. These are made in different sizes to
hold two (see Fig. 1069), four, six, or more bottles. The
water put in the case must be about blood heat.
Choice Wines, such as champagnes, are generally iced
before being served ; but there are not many kinds of
Wine that will bear icing. Burgundy would be utterly
ruined by exposure to such intense cold. When icing is
8 a
VOL. II.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils , Sauces, &c., referred to, see under their special heads.
786
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
decided upon, it should be well done, and no system
could be better than the old one of stowing the bottles in
Fig. 1069. Wine-warmer.
a large bucket, and filling up round with broken ice, at
least an hour before serving. A very ornamental icing-
bucket (see Fig. 1070) is used at many of our large hotels,
clubs, and in private houses. It certainly has a most
inviting appearance on a table, dinner-waggon, or side-
board.
Service of Wine and Wine-drinking. — We come
now to a very interesting and important part of our
subject — that, in short, to which tends all that has gone
before. It is the actual worshipping at the shrine, for
which a most elaborate preparation is considered the
orthodox preliminary. It is a worshipping concerning
which men differ so greatly in their practice and opinions,
that it is necessary to use the utmost caution in stepping
along between prejudices and passions, lest the fancies of
Wines — continued.
some be offended even to the far limits of disgust. For
instance, a teetotaler, whether a pledged abstainer or not,
declares that in his or her opinion Wine is not essential
to the happiness of mankind, nor is it necessary for the
promotion and maintenance of healthy living. Another
expresses an opinion diametrically opposed; and so we
adopt the words of Sir Henry Thompson in his work on
“ Foods and Feeding,” and treat the subject strictly “ in
the spirit of compromise.” This talented author admits
that “ among all civilised nations, Wine in some form has
for centuries been highly appreciated as a gastronomic
accompaniment to food.” Further, “ I do not aver that
any particular harm results from the habit of now and
then enjoying a glass of really fine pure Wine — and,
rare as this is, I do not think any other is worth con-
suming-just as one may occasionally enjoy a particularly
choice dish ; neither the one nor the other, perhaps,
being sufficiently innocuous or digestible for frequent,
much less for habitual use. Then I am disposed to admit
that there are some persons — in the aggregate not a few —
who may take small quantities of genuine light Wine or
beer with very little if any appreciable injury. For these
persons such drinks may be put in the category of
luxuries permissible within certain limits or conditions.”
These “certain limits or conditions,” according to Sir
Henry Thompson’s ideas, ai-e best set down in his own
words. They are: “Wine in relation to dinner should be
served during the repast ; it should never be taken, in
any form, or under any circumstances, before, that is,
on an empty stomach, and rarely after the meal is finished.
Regarded from a gastronomic point of view alone, nothing
should appear after fruit but a small glass of Cognac
or liqueur, and coffee. The post-prandial habit of drinking
glass after glass even of the finest growths of the Gironde,
or of the most mature or mellow shipments from Oporto,
is doubtless a pleasant, but, in the end, for many persons,
a costly indulgence. Secondly, whatever Wine is given
should be the most sound and unsophisticated of its kind
which can be procured. The host had far better produce
only a bottle or two of sound bourgeois Wine from
Bordeaux— and most excellent Wine may be found under
such a denomination — with no pretence of a meretricious
title, or other worthless finery about it, than an array of
fictitious mixtures with pretentious labels procured from
an advertising cheap Wine-house. I could only speak in
terms of contempt and disgust, did I not feel pity for the
deluded victims, of the unscrupulous use of the time-
honoured and historical titles which advertisers shamelessly
Haunt on bottles of worthless compounds by means of
showy labels, in lists and pamphlets of portentous length,
and by placards sown broadcast through the country.
So that one may buy ‘Lafite’or ‘ Margaux,’* Cliambertin ’
or ‘ Nuits,’ ‘ ’47 port ’ or even ‘ ’34 ’ at any village store !
No terms can be too strong to characterise such
trade.
“ If fine Wines of unquestionable character and vintage
are to be produced, there are only two ways of possessing
them : one, by finding some Wine-merchant of long
standing and reputation who will do an applicant the
favour to furnish them, and the price must be large for
quality and age. We may be certain that such a one
will never advertise ; no man who really has the grands
vins of esteemed vintages in his cellar need spend a
shilling in advertisements, for he confers a favour on his
customer by parting with such a stock. But better and
more satisfactory is it to obtain from time to time a pipe
or two of Wine of high character and reputed vintage,
when they are to be had, just fit to bottle, and lay them
down for years until ripe for use. Commencing thus in
early life, a man’s cellar becomes in twenty or thirty years
a possession of interest and value, and he can always
produce, at his little dinners, for those who can appreciate
it, something curiously fine, and free at all events from
the deleterious qualities of new and fictitious Wines,
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces, (be., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
787
Wines — continued.
“ Briefly, the rule, by general gastronomic consent, for
those who indulge in the luxury of Wine, is to offer a
glass of light pale sherry or dry Sauterne after soup ; a
delicate Rhine Wine, if required, after fish ; a glass of
good Bordeaux with the joint of mutton ; the same of
champagne — dry, but with some true vinous character in
it, and not the tasteless spirit and water now enjoying an
evanescent popularity as absolute ‘ brut ’ — during the
entrees ; the best red Wine in the cellar, Bordeaux or
Burgundy, with the grouse or other roast game ; and.
but this ought to suffice, even for that exceptional
individual who is supposed to be little if at all injured
by ‘ moderate ’ potations. With the ice or dessert, a glass
of full-flavoured but matured champagne, or a liqueur, may
be served ; but at this point dietetic admonitions are out
of place, and we have already sacrificed to luxury.
But it is not to be forgotten that both temperance and
digestion are favoured by the habit of avoiding much
mixing of red and white, or indeed of any Wines at our
meals. Men have discovered for themselves that choice
champagne and claret, however delightful each may prove
itself in passing over the palate, often quarrel sadly when
they arrive in the stomach below. Hence the somewhat
modern, and certainly prudent course, which many now
follow, viz., to drink either the one or the other Wine
throughout the dinner, and to limit himself to that only.
And this makes it necessary to supply, as before intimated,
the best produce of the cellar during the whole course of
the dinner, instead of reserving it, as in days of yore,
for consumption afterwards.”
In the foregoing extensive quotation may be found most
tersely expressed the whole rationale of Wine-drinking.
To this it is not necessary to add much, excepting in the
way of confirmation or modification according to the
opinions of others who are doubtless as fully entitled to
acceptance as the previous writer.
According to the decree of a French epicure, white
Wines should always follow the red, except in a French
dinner, which is usually preceded by oysters. “ In this
case, the ostreal delicacies should be saluted with a treble
volley of Chablis ; or, for greater solemnity, with libations
of Pouilly or Mont Rachet ; or even with Sauterne,
Barsac, or White Hermitage. But for this important
reason, red Wine should open the repast.
“ Our French exemplars assert the most proper Wine
during the first course to be, without any contradiction,
Burgundy of the least celebrated growth, and which, for
this reason, is known as low Burgundy. Such are
Aloxe, Avallon, Coulange, Torniere, and generally all those
known under the designation of Macon and Auxerre.
You then ascend to Baume and Pomard ; and if you
choose to confine yourself to the Burgundian topography,
you have the generous Richebourg, the high-flavoured St.
George, the purple Chambertin, and the exquisite
Romanee. But if you can ill bear the trammels of classi-
fication, and wish to give a fillip to your taste by change
of flavour and soil, champagne offers its sparkling Ai,
perfumed Cumiere, and limpid Sillery. After these, you
may enjoy the stronger Wines of Dauphiny, which whet
the appetite and heighten the savour of the roasts.
Among these we recommend Chateau Grille, Cote Rotie,
and Hermitage. 'Tis then that mirth lights up the faces
of the convivial circle, and the gibes and gambols of
wit are wont ‘ to set the table in a roar ’ ; ’tis then that
we acknowledge the claim of only one other Wine to
produce on the quantity already imbibed an effect
similar to that of a drop of water in boiling milk, or a
wine of Bordeaux, or claret. See how Wisdom’s art
gradually appeases the mounting spirits, in the effect of
Medoc poured by a steady hand into bright crystal,
which reflects scores of wax lights. An armistice ensues,
and the ‘ intellectual gladiators ’ lay down then- wordy
weapons. Amphitryons clear the table ; wafers and sweet
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils,
Wines — continued.
cakes and perfumed creams usurp the place of legumes,
which boasted all the skill of scientific cookery.
Languedoc, Rousillon, and Provence, what brilliant
associations do ye create ! Spain, too, participates in this
gale of glory ! But what is that ruby tint which glows
amidst sparkling crystal P — what is that liquid topaz
which strikes the eye with wonder, and inspires a new
gusto ? Rivesalter, Grenach, Lunel, Malmsey, Fron-
tignan, Malaga, and Xeres — what a galaxy of glories
rises with your delicious aroma to perplex Wine-drinkers.
Your half-consumed corks give evidence of your age, like
a wreck of hoar antiquity ; the perfumed gale ascends,
and your richness mantles and sparkles high ; whilst
your glowing spirit tempers the effect of ice, which
is sometimes injudiciously served immediately after
dinner ; although health and good taste concur in delay-
ing its appearance.”
We have here two decided opinions and views on Wine-
drinking and its service ; the one permeated by doubtful
wisdom, the other full of Continental enthusiasm. To
this we need must add a word for Tokay. Our French
writer continues :
“ The aromatic gale of the Mocha berry next salutes
our delighted senses. Folly produces another bottle ;
the silver froth rushes like a boiling spring, and carries
the cork to the ceiling ; or the Arbois is produced, and
unites the sweetness of Condrieux with the sparkling
of the impetuous Ai ! ’Tis then only that the Wine-
drinker can enjoy in diamond glasses the exquisiteness
of veritable Tokay.”
A more strictly practical writer classifies the order of
serving Wines rather more in accordance with the
customs prevailing in this country. He gives them thus :
•' Immediately after the soup dry white Wines are
offered, such as French Wines, Marsala, Sherry, Madeira,
dry Syracuse, &c. With the fish dry white Wines are
also served. With oysters Chablis is preferred. With
releves of butchers’ meat and warm entrees, red Wines,
Burgundy or Bordeaux. With cold entrees and other
cold pieces, fine white Wines are served. With the roast
come the fine Bordeaux or champagne Wines, or both.
With the entremets, champagne alone. With the
dessert, liqueur Wines, such as Frontignan, Lunel,
Alicante, Malvesie, Port, Tokay, Lacrima, Cloriste,
&c.”
In concluding this exhaustive article, and to conciliate
varied opinions, the words of a French gourmet are here
reproduced. He writes : “ Some persons prefer Burgundy,
others contend for Bordeaux, a few pretend that cham-
pagne, still and of the first quality, unites the Burgun-
dian flavour with the Bordeaux warmth ; while the natives
of the borders of the Rhone assert that the finest of all
Wines is Hermitage ! All are right, and each in its turn
is best, especially if the maturation of the fruit has been
successful ; this is rare, for there is a greater difference
between the Wine of one year and that of another, grown
in the same vineyard, than between the Wine of a cele-
brated district and that procured from an obscure spot.
Therefore, we should take the advice of Sterne, and, like
the man at the fair, every one speak as he has found his
market in it. According as we have drunk Sillery, La
Romanee, or Medoc of memorable years, we ought to
prefer the districts which produced them respectively ;
always with this prudent restriction — not to be so exclusive
in our taste, as not to welcome others in the absence of
better.”
Mulled Wine. — (1) Sweeten Iqt. of fresh milk with caster
sugar to taste, then boil it with a stick of cinnamon and
one grated nutmeg for five minutes ; take the milk off
the fire and leave it till cool. Beat the yolks of six eggs
with h teacupful of thick cream. Mix a bottle of Wine
with the eggs and milk, strain the mixture several times
Sauces, <kc>, refored to, see under their special heads.
788
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
through a jelly bag, turn it into a jug, and serve it with
biscuits.
(2) Break a perfectly fresh egg in a basin, put in a
table-spoonful of caster sugar and a wineglassful of Wine.
Beat the above ingredients well, then pour in gradually-
A pint of water, stirring all the time to keep it firm.
Four the mulled Wine into a glass, grate a small quantity
of nutmeg over, and serve.
(3) Pour 1 pint of water into a saucepan, add a season-
ing of cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and a little bruised
ginger, cover over the pan, and reduce to A pint. Strain
it, add 4oz. of powdered loaf sugar and 1 pint of claret,
and serve in glasses.
(4) Put 1 pint each of Wine and cold water on the
stove to get warm ; beat up three eggs with 3 table-spoon-
fuls of sugar; when the Wine is hot — not boiling, or the
eggs will curdle — add the eggs to it, and beat them well ;
add a little allspice, and if not sweet enough add a little
more sugar, grate in a little nutmeg, and serve hot.
Wine Biscuits. — Slightly warm Jib. of butter and beat it
to a cream with a wineglassful of Wine. Mix 41b. of flour
with Alb. of caster sugar, then mix it to a paste with the
Wine and butter, stirring in also four well beaten eggs.
Sprinkle a few caraway-seeds into the mixture, work it
till quite smooth, then turn it out on to a floured table,
and roll it out as thin as possible. With a round tin
cutter, ll,in. in diameter, cut some biscuits out of the
Fig. 1071. Wine Biscuits.
flat of paste. Put the biscuits on a buttered baking-
sheet, brush the tops over with beaten rvhite of egg, dust
some caster sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven
for ten or twelve minutes. When cold, take the biscuits
off the baking-sheet, and serve in a glass dish (see Fig. 1071).
When cold, keep them in a tin in a dry place.
Wine Cake. — Put 6 table-spoonfuls of caster sugar into a
saucepan with 1 pint of Wine, and stir it over the fire
till on the point of boiling. Take the sweetened Wine off
the fire and leave it till cooled to blood heat. Beat six
eggs well, and mix them with the Wine, then stir the
liquor gradually into Jib. of the best white flour, and beat
it well. Butter a cake-tin, pour in the cake, and bake
it in a quick oven. When cooked, turn the cake out of
the tin.
Wine Cream Ice. — Put 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cream into a
saucepan with the yolks of five eggs, and prepare a custard.
Pour it into a basin, let it get cold, mix in 2 wineglass-
fuls of white Wine and sufficient syrup or sugar to sweeten,
and freeze in the freezer ; stir in a little chopped preserved
mixed fruits, turn the cream into a mould packed in ice,
let it set, and turn it out on to a cold dish for use.
Wine Custard. — Put lqt. of rich milk in a saucepan with
6oz. of caster sugar and boil it. Beat the yolks of twelve
eggs with 6oz. of caster sugar till light and thick, then
pour in gradually the boiling milk. Return the custard
to the saucepan, and stir it by the side of the fire till
thick and on the point of boiling ; then move it at once,
for if it boils the eggs will curdle, and stir into it 2
wineglassfuls of white Wine. Strain the custard into a
basin, and set it on ice till cold. Put some slices of
jelly cake into a large glass bowl, pour in the custard,
pile some whipped cream on the top, and serve; or, if
Wines — continued.
preferred, the custard may be turned into saucers with
small round Italian cakes floating about in them.
Wine Finger Biscuits.— (1) Warm 2oz. of butter and beat
it to a cream with 2 table -spoonfuls of caster sugar and 1
table-spoonful of orange sugar ; add 1 wineglassful of
Malaga Wine and 1 pinch of salt, then stir Alb. of flour
in the mixture, and work till smooth. Dust "some flour
Fig. 1072. Wine Finger Biscuits.
over the table or paste-slab, and roll the paste out very
thin ; cut it into long thin fingers, which prick all
over with a fork. Dust some flour over a baking-sheet'
arrange the biscuits on it, and bake them in a moderately
brisk oven. Serve on a glass dish (see Fig. 1072). The
biscuits should be kept perfectly dry in biscuit-tins.
(2) Rub Jib. of butter smoothly into fib. of flour, then
mix in 41b. of sugar ; beat the yolks of two eggs well
with 2 wineglassfuls of white Wine, and stir them in with
the above ingredients ; mix the paste smoothly, then put
it on a floured paste board and roll it out thinly. Cut
the paste into long strips about lin. wide, brush them
over with a paste- brush dipped in beaten white- of egg,
and dredge over with caster sugar, pounded sweet almonds,
and a small quantity of cinnamon. Butter a bright baking-
tin, lay the strips on it, side by side, and not too closely
together, and bake them until lightly browned. These are
very nice served when cold for dessert.
Wine Froth. — Put the yolks of six eggs into a saucepan
with A pint of Wine, and whisk them over the fire until a
stiff froth is formed. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a
stiff snow with 4 table -spoonfuls of caster sugar and the
grated peel of a lemon. Add them to the above mixture,
and whisk the whole until it thickens. Pour the mixture
into glasses, and serve.
Wine Ices. — Rub the peel of one orange and four lemons on
some lumps of sugar, and scrape it off into a basin, then
squeeze in the juice of the lemons and orange. Add to
the above articles 4 pint of clarified sugar, 1 pint of Wine,
and a small quantity of water. Stir all together till well
mixed, then turn it into a freezer, and work the mixture
until frozen. When frozen, ladle the ice into ice glasses,
and serve.
Wine Jelly. — (1) Steep 3oz. of gelatine in 1 pint of cold
water for twenty minutes, then turn it into a saucepan,
and stir in lqt. of boiling water. When the gelatine has
dissolved, mix in with it the thinly-pared rind and the
juice of two lemons, lOoz. of loaf sugar, some small pieces
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
789
Wines — continued.
of cinnamon, seven or eight cloves, ana 1 teaspoonful of
peppercorns. Beat the whites of two eggs with their
shells, put them in with the other ingredients, and stir
them over the fire till boiling. Mix 1 A breakfast cupfuls
of Madeira with the jelly, strain it several times till
clear and bright through a jelly bag that has been wrung
out of boiling water, pour the jelly into a mould, and
pack it in ice till firm. When ready to serve, dip the
mould in lukewarm water, wipe it, and turn the jelly
out on to a fancy dish (see Fig. 1073).
(2) Soak 2oz. of gelatine in A pint of cold water for
three hours ; add to it then the thinly. pared rind of half
a lemon, the juice of one lemon, two peach-leaves, or a
few drops of essence of bitter almonds, and Mb. of powdered
white sugar ; cover it over, and let it stand for half-an-
liour ; pour ov er it then 1 pint of boiling water, stir it
till the gelatine is quite dissolved, and then strain it.
Add 1 pint of white Wine, and strain it again through a
flannel bag without either squeezing or shaking the bag.
Wet the inside of a mould with cold water, pour the
jelly into it, let it stand in a cool place all night, and
turn out next day.
(3) Put nearly lAoz. of gelatine into 1 pint of cold water
together with a bit of lemon-peel, and let it soak all night.
Next day put into a pint measure U wine-glasses of brandy,
the strained juice of four lemons, a small quantity of
orange flavouring or spirit of punch, and the whites and
shells of two eggs, beaten together ; fill the measure up
with raisin wine, turn it into a saucepan, add Jib. of
caster sugar and the soaked gelatine, and boil gently till
the scum separates ; then pass it through a jelly-bag.
(4) Put 3oz. of gelatine into a porcelain bowl, cover
with 1 pint of cold water, and let it soak for two or
three hours, by which time it should be quite soft. Pour
it into a saucepan, add lqt. of boiling water, the juice of
two lemons, lib. of powdered loaf sugar, and A pint of
sherry or Madeira Wine. When about to boil, strain it
through a jelly-bag into a mould and let it remain until
set. It may be flavoured with the juice of any fruit, and
coloured or tinted with carmine, cochineal, saffron, red
beet juice, or claret. Sometimes it is made with cherry
brandy or any cordial instead of the Wine.
(5) Stir Joz. of isinglass in 4 pint of hot water till
dissolved, then mix in the thinly-pared rind and the
strained juice of two oranges, the yolks of four eggs, and
caster sugar to taste. Beat the above mixture well, then
turn it into a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till on
the point of boiling, but do not let it quite boil. Take
the jelly off the fire, and leave it till partly cold. Rinse
a mould out with cold water, pour in the jelly, and pack
it in ice till set. Dip the mould in tepid water, wipe it,
turn the jelly out on to a fancy dish, and serve.
(6) Put lqt. of cold water into a saucepan with Jib.
of granulated sugar ; add 2oz. of gelatine in small pieces,
and grate in the rind of a medium sized lemon, squeezing-
in the juice as well. Mix well, and place the saucepan
on a hot stove. Beat up in a basin the whites of two
eggs, and stir them into the other ingredients; grate in
1 saltspoonful of nutmeg, and add six cloves and one bay-
leaf, mixing well with a whisk for one minute. Have
ready a jelly-bag tied on a jelly stand or two kitchen
chairs. Stir the preparation, and when coming to the
boil set it back to a cooler part of the stove to prevent it
overflowing, and stir while boiling for six minutes. Place
a vessel under the jelly bag, remove the pan from the
fire, and pour the whole into the bag, immediately adding
to it h pint of lieberfraumilch Wine. Let it drain into the
vessel, return it to the bag, placing another vessel under-
neath, and let it drain through for fully two hours.
Have ready a quart jelly-mould, pour the jelly from the
vessel into it, set it aside in a cool place for two
hours, and afterwards pack it in ice to harden for two
hours longer. Make a dish as cold as possible ; dip the
mould lightly and carefully to near its edge in lukewarm
water, take it up immediately, turn it out on to the
dish, and send to table.
Wine Ketchup. — Pour 1 pint of walnut or mushroom
ketchup into a saucepan, add 4oz. of boned chopped
Wines — continued.
anchovies, ten shallots, loz. of scraped horseradish, and
spice to taste ; simmer gently at the side of the fire for
about fifteen minutes. Remove from the fire, let the
liquor cool, mix in 1 pint each of red and white Wine, let
it stand for seven or eight hours, drain, strain, and
bottle for use.
Wine Negus. — Put 2 teacupfuls of warm calf’s-foot jelly
into a jar or jug with the peel of a lemon rubbed off
with sugar, or the peel pounded in a mortar, also two
thinly sliced lemons, and a seasoning off allspice, cinnamon,
cloves, and mace ; pour over lqt. of boiling water, cover
securely, and let it stand for fifteen minutes. Now add
1 pint of boiling white Wine, sugar to sweeten, and grated
nutmeg to flavour, and the negus is then ready for use.
Wine Posset. — (1) Mix in a large jug 1 pint of rich thick
cream, 4 wineglassfuls of Wine, 1 wineglassful of brandy,
the strained juice of a lemon, and loaf sugar to taste.
Let it stand for an hour or two, then whisk it well, and
skim off the froth as it rises, placing it on a sieve. Put
a little of the cream that runs through in each glass,
and fill them up with the froth. Dredge a small quantity
of coloured sugar on the top of each, and serve at once.
(2) Put the finely-grated crumb of a penny stale French
roll into a lined saucepan with lqt. of milk, and boil it
gently until soft. Move the mixture from the fire, sweeten
it to taste with caster sugar, and grate in half a nutmeg ;
beat it wrell with a wooden spoon until somewhat cooled,
then turn it into a china bowl and stir in gradually 1
pint of Lisbon Wine. Leave the posset until quite cold,
then serve it with small squares of toast and butter.
Wine Roll. — -(1) Put a penny roll in Wine and let it soak
till all the moisture is absorbed. Mask the roll with a
Fig. 1074. Wine Roll.
thick coating of apricot jelly, put it in a glass dish, pour
1 pint of Wine custard round it, and serve. The roll
sprinkled over with small many-coloured sweets, as well as
the jam or in place of it, makes a very pretty dish. Any
otlier kind of jam may be used if preferred. See Fig. 1074.
(2) Put a penny French roll into a basin, pour over it
as much raisin Wine as it will absorb, and let it soak well.
Sweeten 1 pint of thick cream with caster sugar, and
flavour with lemon-juice. Put the roll in a glass dish,
either whole or cut into slices, and pour the cream round
it. Blanch a few sweet almonds, split them lengthwise,
stick them in the roll, and serve. A nicely-flavourecl
custard can be used in place of the cream, if more
convenient.
(3) Put three penny French rolls in a basin, pour over
them as much raisin Wine as will cover them, and let
them soak until they have absorbed all the moisture.
Prepare a rich nicely flavoured custard and let it get cold;
strew the rolls thickly with nonpareils, put them in a
glass dish, pour the custard round, and serve.
Wine Sauce. — (1) Put 2 table spoonfuls of sugar into a sauce-
pan with 1 gill of water, and stir it over the fire till the
sugar has dissolved. Put 1 table- spoonful of any kind of jam
in the sweetened water, and mix it well ; then stir in 1
wineglassful of sherry and a squeeze of lemon-juice. The
sauce is then ready for serving with whatever dish it
is intended for.
(2) Mince together one small blanched onion, three small
mushrooms, and a few sprigs of parsley ; put them in a
saucepan with about 2oz. of butter and 2 table-spoonfuls
of flour, and stir them over the fire for a few minutes, but
do not brown them. Stir in with the above articles 1
pint of light Wine, dust in a small quantity of salt,
pepper, and pounded mace, and let the sauce simmer
gently by the side of the fire for half an- hour, stirring it
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utetisils, Sauces, d-c., referred to, see under their special heads.
790
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wines — continued.
occasionally. When cooked, skim the fat off the sauce,
and serve it.
(3) Put 1 table -spoonful of potato flour into a saucepan,
and stir in gradually § pint of sherry. Beat the yolks
of four eggs, mix them with the Wine, sweeten to taste
with caster sugar, and dust in a small quantity of
powdered cinnamon. Stir the sauce over the fire till thick
and on the point of boiling, then take it off at once: it
is then ready for serving. The sauce must not boil after
the eggs are added, or they will curdle.
(4) Put into a saucepan 4oz of apricot marmalade with
\ gill of cold water, place it on the fire, and stir until
boiling ; then take it off, and add immediately 4 pint of
Tokay Wine, stirring thoroughly for one minute. Strain
through a sieve, and serve.
(5) Beat up the yolks of four eggs with 4 wineglassfuls
of sherry, and mix 1 table-spoonful of potato flour
smoothly with them. Strain the mixture, sweeten it to
taste with caster sugar, flavour it with moderate quan-
tities of powdered cinnamon and grated lemon-peel, and
mix in 2 more wineglassfuls of sherry. Pour the sauce
into an enamelled saucepan and stir it over the lire with
a wooden spoon until boiling and thickened. It is then
ready for serving.
(6) Cut some lean beef into thin slices, put it into a
frying-pan without butter, dripping, or grease of any kind,
set it over a not too hot fire, cover with a large plate
turned upside-down if no better cover is at hand, and let
it remain over the fire till the gravy that comes from the
meat is dried into it again ; then add as much water as
will cover the meat, and let it simmer till the water is
dried up; add more water, but not so much as before, a
seasoning of spice, onions, and sweet herbs, and a small
piece of lean ham ; let it simmer till the gravy is very
good, strain it then, and let it stand in a cool place.
When quite cold, take off the fat, warm up about 4
pint of the gravy, and add to it 2 table spoonfuls of port
Wine ; or | pint of gravy may be made from the jelly
at the bottom of a bowl of dripping and the port Wine
added to it.
Wine Sauce for Fish. — Put 1 teacupful each of stock and
Wine into a saucepan, and if the fish has been cooked
in Wine, mix in also the cooking. liquor. Put a lump of
butter and 1 table- spoonful of flour in a frying-pan, anil
stir it over the fire till browned, then mix it in with the
sauce. Stir the sauce over the fire till boiling, and strain
it through a fine hair sieve into another saucepan ; skim
off all the fat as it rises, and let it simmer by the side
of the fire for a few minutes. Squeeze in the juice of a
lemon, mix a pinch of cayenne in with the sauce, and
serve.
Wine Shape. — Put 2oz. of isinglass in 1 pint of water in a
stewpan, let it boil gently till melted, then strain it
through muslin. Beat the yolks of six eggs with 5 tal ile-
spoonfuls of caster sugar, and mix with them the juice of
two small lemons or one large one, and 1 pint of white
wine. Beat the mixture thoroughly, then pour it into a
lined stewpan with the dissolved isinglass, and stir it one
way only over a slow fire. The mixture must not boil,
but when it thickens take it off the fire and pour it into
a mould. Pack the mould in pounded ice and leave it
for several hours. Before serving, dip the mould quickly
into hot water to loosen the contents, wipe it, and turn
the shape out on to a glass dish. .
Wine Soup. -(1) Put the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites
of six into an enamelled saucepan, and beat them
thoroughly ; pour in 1 4 breakfast- cupfuls of water, add 6oz.
of loaf sugar, the grated yellow rind and strained juice
of a large lemon, and 14 pints of white Wine. Whisk the
soup over a gentle fire until frothed and on the point of
boiling, then move it off immediately, turn it into a
soup-tureen, and serve with a plate of small sponge cakes or
fancy biscuits. The soup should be served directly it is
ready, as the froth will very soon go down.
(2) Boil 1 pint of water with a stick of cinnamon and
the peel of half a lemon until nicely flavoured, then strain
it. Return the water to the saucepan with 1 pint of
Wines — continued.
Wine (either red or white), sweeten to taste with loaf
sugar, and stir in the well beaten yolks of six eggs and
the whites of two. Stir the soup over a slow fire till on
the point of boiling, then move it to the side. Cut a
French roll into thin slices, toast them crisp and brown,
cut them into quarters, put them in a soup-tureen, pour
the soup over them, and serve while very hot.
(3) Put 2 pints of German Wine and 1 4 pints of water
in a saucepan with some sugar, cinnamon, and pounded
cardamom- seeds to taste, and boil them. Fry some slices
of well baked rye bread with half the quantity of white
bread in butter. When browned, drain the lnread, put it
in a mortar with some sugar, and pound ic Press the
pounded bread into a mould, then turn it on to the
centre of a deep dish. Stir the beaten yolks of three eggs
into the soup, and move it to the side of the fire.
Garnish the dome of bread with blanched almonds and
some pieces of candied orange-peel, pour the soup ovei it,
and serve.
(4) Finely chop some lemon-peel, pound some cardamom-
seeds, and grate some rye bread. Put the above ingre-
dients in a saucepan with 1 pint of water, stir them, and
boil for several minutes; then mix in 14 pints of Wine.
Do not boil the soup after the wine is added. When hot,
turn it into a soup- tureen, and serve.
(5) Put 4oz. of well washed rice into a saucepan with
3 breakfast-cupfuls of water and the thin rind of a lemon,
and boil until the rice is perfectly soft. Pour in gradu
ally 1 pint of white Wine, sweeten to taste, and a few
minutes before serving mix in the well whisked yolks of
four eggs.
(6) Put the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four
into a saucepan and beat them well ; add Jib. or so of
crushed loaf sugar to sweeten, the grated peel and juice
of a lemon, 1 breakfast- cupful of cold water, and lastly 1
pint of any white Wine. Set the pan over a slow tire and
whisk vigorously until the liquor is about to boil, by
which time it should be well frothed. It must be served
at once with sweet biscuits or sponge cake.
(7) Put 2 table-spoonfuls of Hour into a stewpan with
2oz. of ibutter, and stir them over the fire until nicely
browned; then pour in gradually lqt. of water and 14
pints of white Wine, stir it over the fire until boiling,
and flavour with lemon-peel and cinnamon. Beat the yolks
of six eggs and stir them into the soup, being careful not
to let it boil again or they will curdle. Cut a couple of
slices of toasted bread into small squares, put them in a
soup-tureen, pour the soup over them, removing the
lemon-peel and cinnamon, and serve.
Wine Soup a la Monastere. — Wash 4oz. of rice in plenty
of water, put it in a saucepan with the peel of a lemon,
3 breakfast-cupfuls of water, and boil till quite soft.
When the rice is cooked, stir in gradually a bottle of
white Wine, sweeten to taste with crushed loaf sugar, and
boil it up again. Beat the yolks of four eggs in a soup,
tureen, turn the soup into it, and serve.
Wine Soup with Dried Fruit and Bread. — Wash 1 break-
fast-cupful of currants, put them in a saucepan with an
equal quantity of breadcrumbs, the thinly-pared rind of
one lemon, and a stick of cinnamon ; pour in lqt. of white
Wine and 1 pint of water, sweeten the soup to taste with
sugar, and place it over the fire till on the point of boil-
ing. Beat the yolks of six eggs in a soup-tureen, then
pour in the boiling soup, stirring it at the same time
with a wooden spoon. Serve the soup with a plate of
small sponge cakes.
Wine Soup with Lemons. — Thickly slice two or three
lemons, remove the seeds, cover them thickly with caster
sugar, and lay them in a soup-tureen. Put 2oz. or 3oz. of
butter in a saucepan, make it hot, then throw in 1
breakfast-cupful of grated breadcrumb, and stir them over
the fire until crisp and brown. Strew the breadcrumbs
over the slices of lemon. Mix 1 pint of water with lqt.
of white Wine, sweeten to taste with sugar, put it over the
fire until boiling, then pour it over the slices of lemon. Leave
the soup for three or four minutes, keeping it closely covered,
then serve it with sponge cakes.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <tc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
791
Wines — continued.
Wine Soup with Lemon and Trench Rolls.— Put two
French rolls in a saucepan with the thinly-pared rind and
the juice of one lemon, pour in water to cover, and boil
to a thin paste. Pass the mixture through a fine wire
sieve, return it to the saucepan, pour in lqt. of white
Wine, season to taste with sugar and a small quantity of
salt, and stir over the fire until boiling. Beat the yolks
of three eggs in a soup-tureen, then pour the boiling Wine
over them, stirring at the same time, and serve.
Wine Whey. — (1) Put 1 pint of milk into a small lined
saucepan, place it over the fire until boiling, then put in
2 wineglassfuls of port Wine and 1 table-spoonful of caster
or loaf sugar. Stir the whey until the sugar has dis-
solved, then strain it through a piece of muslin into a jug.
Grate a small quantity of nutmeg over the whey, and
serve while very hot.
(2) Put 1 pint of skimmed milk into a basin with
| pint of white Wine, pour in gradually 1 pint of boiling
water, and let them stand a short time until the curd
falls in a lump to the bottom. Next pour off the whey
into a china bowl, sweeten it to taste with lemon-flavoured
sugar, put a small sprig of balm on the top, .and serve
with sweet biscuits.
(3) Pour 1 pint of new milk into a saucepan, let it boil,
add 3 wineglassfuls of sherry or raisin Wine, boil up again,
and then remove from the fire. Let them stand until
the curd forms, remove this, strain the whey, and sweeten
to taste with sugar. It is then ready for use, and if
required for an invalid it can either be weakened by
adding hot water, or it may be boiled for five minutes
longer before being served.
(4) Put 1 pint of milk in a lined saucepan over the
fire, and when boiling pour in a sufficient quantity of
white Wine to curdle it. Boil up once, then let it settle,
strain off the whey, sweeten to taste with boiling syrup,
and serve in punch glasses.
WINE BISCUITS. — See Biscuits.
WINES, AMERICAN. — See American Wines
WINES AND LIQUEUR GLASSES.— Some
idea of the enormous variety of elegant patterns and
chaste designs in which these important vessels are made
can be gained by referring to the Plate of Drinking
Glasses. They form an essential part of the table-
service, being both useful and ornamental. For
information as to arrangement and special application,
see Table-service.
WINKLES. — See Periwinkles.
WINTER SALAD.— Nee Salads.
WONDERS. — See Jersey Wonders.
WOOD. — The use of Wood for the manufacture of
culinary apparatus was at one time highly esteemed. It
was not readily broken, and was easily cleaned. Ad-
vancement in the science and art of cooking has taught
us that metal and glass, or earthenware, are greatly to be
preferred, especially for those articles which come into
contact with moist or soft foods. Wooden paste-boards
are now superseded by slate or marble. Wooden
rollers are replaced by glass or brass ; wooden spoons give
way to silver, and wooden bowls and pestles and mortars
are almost things of the past. Even the tables are now
more often iron-topped than wooden; and this trans-
formation is increasing so rapidly that it has been pre-
dicted that in course of time Wood will be almost un-
known in the kitchen even for lighting fires, the ordinary
fuel stoves being superseded by gas or electricity.
Cement or stone flooring is coming into use in large
kitchens, and the dangerous absorbing properties of the
cellular Wood substance are gradually being recognised by
modern caterers. The day is not far distant, let us hope,
when wooden utensils will be no more known — for handles
and similar purposes the non-heat-conducting properties
of W ood stand in good stead ; but bone, or ivory, or
cellulose will be better.
W ood — continued.
As fuel or kindling Wood will be necessary until
W ood, coke, coal, and charcoal fires are no longer used, where
Wood is employed there should always be a goodly
supply chopped up, and thoroughly dried, ready for
immediate use.
WOODCOCKS (Fr. Becasses ; Ger. Sclinepfen; It al.
Beccaccie; Sp. Choclias). — This bird of passage arrives in
England about the middle of September, and its advent is
eagerly looked for, its stay being short and fleeting. By
gourmets, its flesh is regarded almost “ in the light of a
poem,” in proof of which every morsel of it, including head
and tail, is considered choice and eatable. Some persons,
however, are of opinion that there is scarcely enough of it
for so delicious a morsel ; in consequence of this opinion, an
epicurean poet has written :
If partridge had the woodcock’s thighs,
’T would be the noblest bird that flies ;
If woodcock had the partridge breast,
’Twould be the best bird ever drest.
The Woodcock ( Scolopax rusticola) is a bird of the snipe
variety, having a long beak, which some cooks fancifully
use for the purpose of trussing it. The flesh is dark, and
when in good condition very delicate, especially when the
bird has been hung sufficiently long to assume a game
flavour. To tell if a Woodcock has been hung long
enough for cooking, it should be lifted by one of the tail
feathers, when, if sufficiently mature, the body will detach
itself from the feathers by its own weight.
To prepare a Woodcock for cooking, it should be
carefully plucked feather by feather, the head and neck
skinned, and the inside or trail left untouched. The
thighs should then be fixed close to the body, and the beak
brought down under the wing, or it may be passed
through the body, or made to transfix the thighs (see Fig.
1075). Another method of trussing adopted in some
Continental kitchens is to tuck the head under the
skin of the breast (see Fig. 1076), leaving the beak
protruding.
There are three varieties of Woodcock known to the
game-seller, called respectively the large, the middle-sized,
and the small ; the largest is about the size of a partridge,
not so heavy, with brown plumage, tinted with black and
grey, and black stripes; the middle size is of a chestnut
colour, equally striped with black and grey, the belly
being spotted with black on a brown ground ; and the
smallest has a plumage that is almost exclusively reddish-
brown or russet.
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils, Sauces , lie. , referred to, see under their special heads.
792
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
W oodcocks — continued.
Bouchees of Woodcocks. — Braise some Woodcocks in game
broth, and when they are cooked leave them till cool. Strain
the cooking-liquor through a line hair sieve into another
stewpan, skim oft' all the fat, boil it for a few minutes
to slightly reduce it, then mix in double its quantity of
veloute sauce, and boil quickly till reduced to a creamy
consistency. When cold, separate the flesh of the Wood-
cocks from the bones, trim off all the skin and fat, chop j
the meat, and pound it in a mortar, pouring in gradually j
at the same time the prepared sauce. Pass the puree '
through a line hair sieve into a stewpan. Boll out on a
floured table some puff paste at six turns; with a fluted
tin cutter, 2in. in diameter, cut out some rounds, arrange
them on a baking sheet, a short distance from each other,
and set them to rise in a cool place for a few minutes.
Brush the bouchees (or small rounds of paste) over with a
paste brush dipped in beaten egg, anti with a plain tin
cutter, IJin. in diameter, cut partly through the centre of
each of the rounds, dipping the cutter in hot water
occasionally. Bake the bouchees in a quick oven, and
when cooked lift off. the centre pieces of paste which are
to form the covers and scoop out the underdone paste
inside the patties. Stir the puree of Woodcocks over the
fire till hot again, then fill the patties with it, put on the
covers, arrange them on a folded napkin or an ornamental
dish-paper that has been placed on a hot dish, and serve.
Broiled Woodcocks. — Pluck, singe, draw, pick out the eyes,
and remove the skin from the heads of six fine Woodcocks,
wipe them neatly, and split them through the backs with-
out separating the parts. Put them on a dish, season
with 1 pinch of salt, 4 pinch of pepper, and 1 table spoon-
ful of sweet oil. Roll them well in the seasoning and put
them on to broil with the bills stuck into the breasts.
Fig. 1077. Broiled Woodcocks.
Let them broil for four minutes on each side, then arrange
them on a dish with six pieces of heart-shaped fried
bread covered with minced hearts and livers as for roasted
Woodcock, spread over 1 gill of maitre d’hdtel butter,
decorate with six slices of broiled bacon (see Fig. 1077),
and serve.
Chaudfroid of Woodcocks. — Pluck and singe some Wood-
cocks, wrap them in sheets of buttered paper, fix them
on a spit, and roast them in front of a clear fire ; do not
brown them, and keep them rather underdone. When
cold, cut the birds into joints, coat them over with
chaudfroid sauce that has been reduced with essence of
Woodcock, and lay them on a dish till the sauce has
cooled. Garnish a round border mould with some cooked
minion fillets of Woodcocks, fill it with aspic jelly, and
leave it till set. Turn the boi'der of jelly out on to a
round dish, put a block of fiied bread in the centre,
arrange the pieces of birds inside the circle, leaning them
against the bread support, and serve.
Essence of Woodcock. — Separate the fillets from the bones
of some Woodcocks, and put them by for further use.
Put the bones and trimmings of the birds in a saucepan
with a bunch of sweet herbs, one onion stuck with two
cloves, a carrot, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg ;
pour in 1 pint of Madeira, and boil till reduced to a glaze.
Then pour in 3qts. of broth, and when boiling let it
simmer for one and-a-half hours by the side of the fire,
keeping it well skimmed. Strain the essence through a
broth napkin, skim off the fat, and put it by for use.
Fillets of Woodcocks a la Lucullus. — Singe and draw some
birds, fix them on the spit, and roast, keeping them
rather underdone. Make about 41b. of chicken forcemeat.
Woodcocks — continued.
Take the fillets off’ the birds, spread them over with
the forcemeat, brush over with beaten egg, lay them in
a buttered saute pan, pour in sufficient white stock to
cover them, and boil gently for a few minutes. Chop the
flesh of the legs and the trails, put it in a mortar, pound,
and pass through a fine hair sieve. Put the pounded
meat in a saucepan with 1 4 breakfast-cupfuls of game
sauce (which can be made from the bones of the birds),
and boil it til! thick ; move the sauce to the side of the
lire and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Arrange
the fillets of Woodcocks in a circle on a hot dish, alternat
ing each with a crouton of fried bread, pour the sauce in
the middle of the dish, and serve.
Fillets of Woodcocks a la Strasbourg. — Cut the fillets off
some Woodcocks and split them open where they are
thickest, trimming neatly at the same time. Put some
mushroom trimmings, the same quantity of parsley, and
a smaller quantity of shallots, all chopped, in a frying-pan
with a lump of butter, and fry them over a brisk fire for
five minutes; then mix them with some fat liver force-
meat. Spread the mixture inside the fillets, fold them
again, flatten them slightly with the blade of a knife to
stick the two pieces together, put them in a frying-pan with
a piece of butter, cover with a sheet of buttered paper,
and fry them over a moderate fire. Boil some Spanish
sauce with some essence of Woodcocks till reduced, then
mix in 1 table spoonful of chopped truffles that have been
cooked in white wine and 4 table-spoonful each of chopped
mushrooms, parsley, and shallots, that have been fried
in butter. Cook some scollops of fat liver, put them in
a croustade that has been fixed on a hot dish, pour
some of the sauce over the fillets, and serve the remainder in
a sauceboat.
Fillets of Woodcocks en Surprise. — Roast some Wood,
cocks in front of a clear fire, keeping them rather under-
done. When cooked, cut the fillets carefully off' the
breasts of the Woodcocks, cover each with chicken force-
meat, and let them simmer in some stock for ten or twelve
minutes. Put as many dressed cocks’ combs as there are
fillets in a little stock, and warm them. Put a border of
mashed potatoes on a hot dish, arrange the fillets and
cocks’ combs alternately on them, pour over some veloute
game sauce, and serve.
Fillets of Woodcock a la Talleyrand. — Roast some
Woodcocks, and prepare some chicken forcemeat. When
the Woodcocks are cooked, cut the fillets off the breast
and cover them with the forcemeat, put them in a
stewpan with sufficient broth to cover, and let them
simmer for ten minutes. Cut as many pieces of bread as
there are fillets and of the same size and shape, and fry
them till lightly browned in butter. Pound the trails of
the Woodcocks, season them, and mix a beaten yolk of egg
with them ; spread the mixture on the croutons, and brown
them in a quick oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Pour 2
breakfast-cupfuls of game sauce into a stewpan with a scant
breakfast- cupful of broth, and boil quickly till it adheres to
the spoon ; then put in 5 or 6 table- spoonfuls of finely-chopped
truffles, and add a little sugar. Arrange the fillets of
Woodcocks in a half circle round a hot dish, and the croutons
round the other side, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Fillets of Woodcock on Toast. — Separate the fillets from
the bones of some Woodcocks, trim them neatly, season
with salt and pepper, and brush over with warmed butter.
Chop the trails of the birds, and mix them with some
chopped parsley, shallots, and scraped bacon, and season
the mixture with pepper and salt. Cut some crusts of
bread longer than the fillets, make some deep slits down
the edges, fry them in butter, then scoop out the crumb.
Fill the crusts with the chopped trail mixture, and bake
them. Put the fillets of Woodcocks in a frying-pan with
some butter, and fry them. Mix some meat glaze with
some stock that should have been made with the pounded
carcase of the birds. When cooked, put the crusts on a hot
dish, place a fillet on each crust, and serve them with the
sauce in a sauceboat.
Fillets of Woodcock with Truffle Puree. — Separate the
fillets from the bones of the birds, trim them, put them in
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, itc., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
793
W oodcocks — continued.
a frying-pan, season with pepper and salt, and baste them
with a little warmed butter. Stud each of the minion
fillets with a small square of truffle, put them in a baking-
dish with a small lump of butter, cover with a sheet of
buttered paper, and hake in the oven. Fry the large fillets
over a moderate fire. Fix a croustade in the centre of a
hot dish, and fill it with a truffle puree. Arrange the large
fillets when cooked in a circle round the croustade, then
place the minion fillets round them. Pour over the fillets
some essence of Woodcocks that has been mixed with a
small quantity of half glaze, and serve them.
Fried Woodcocks. — -Dress and prepare two or three Woodcocks.
Have ready a frying-pan half full of smoking hot fat, and
as many slices of bread as there are birds. Trim the crust
from the bread, and toast it delicately 'while the Woodcocks
are being fried ; plunge the birds into the hot fat, fry them
a delicate brown, then sprinkle them with salt, and serve
them on the toast.
Roasted Woodcocks. — (1) Truss the required quantity of
Woodcocks without drawing them, fastening the legs close
to the body with an iron skewer. Toast as many slices of
bread as there are Woodcocks to he roasted. Tie the birds
on a small bird-spit, and put them in front of a clear fire.
Lay a slice of toast in the dripping-pan under each bird to
catch the trail, and let them roast for twenty minutes or
half an-hour: they should be rather underdone. While they
are roasting, ■ haste them with butter, and dredge with
Fig. 1078. Roasted Woodcocks.
flour to froth them. When sufficiently cooked, lay the
pieces of toast on a hot dish and put one of the birds on
each, pour a little good beef gravy in the dish, and serve
some more in a sauce-tureen. Garnish the dish with thin
slices of lemon and watercress (see Fig. 1078).
(2) Pluck and draw some Woodcocks ; put a little butter,
pepper, and salt, mixed, into the body, or fill with mashed
potatoes seasoned with a bit of butter, pepper, and salt,
and moistened with milk ; cut off the pinions at the first
joint, fasten the legs close to the ribs, and turn the head
of each one backwards, sticking the bill between the legs
and the body. Rub over with pepper and salt, put them
on a spit, and set before a hot fire, basting with a little
water and butter. Dredge over flour or rolled crackers,
and baste continually for the last five minutes; lay slices
of toast under to catch the dripping, ami serve under the
birds.
(3) Procure six fine fat Woodcocks ; pick, singe, and draw
them, putting the hearts and livers on a plate for further
use. Take out the eyes, remove the skin from the heads,
truss up the feet, skewer them with the bill, and tie a bard
of fat pork round the breasts. Chop up all the hearts and
livers very fine, and mix them with 1 teaspoonful of chives,
2 pinch of salt, J pinch of pepper, and 1 teaspoonful of
butter. Prepare six bread canapes for game, 2Ain.
long by Hin. wide, fry them for two minutes in very "hot-
fat, then drain them thoroughly, and cover each canape
with some of the mixture, spreading over a little bread-
crumb and a very little butter ; place them in a small
baking-pan and put them aside. Now put the Woodcocks
in a roasting-pan with a little butter well spread over
them, and bake them in a brisk oven for ten minutes.
Two minutes before the birds are done, put the canapes
in the. oven, then take both out and lay the canapds on a
hot dish ; untie the birds, and arrange them over the
canapes, decorating the dish with a' little watercress.
Strain the gravy into a sauce-bowl, and serve it separately.
(4) Take the neck-bone out of the required quantity
of birds, leaving the skin and head attached to the body,
Woodcocks — continued.
twist the skin of the neck round the wing, and stick the
bill through the wing and body in place of a skewer.
Tie some thin rashers of bacon round the birds, fix them
on a spit, and roast in front of a clear fire. The birds
should be continually basted with butter, and a piece of
toasted bread should lie put underneath to catch the
drippings. When cooked, put as many pieces of toast on
a hot dish as there are Woodcocks, place a bird on each
piece, and serve them with a sauceboatful of butter sauce.
These birds should not be drawn, and they require a very
small amount of trussing.
Salmi of Woodcock. — (1) Split three Woodcocks length-
wise down the back, then divide them into joints, and
lay them aside on a dish. Bruise the livers and trails
of the birds, lay them on the dish with the birds, strew
2 table-spoonfuls of finely-minced lemon-peel over them,
and dust over with salt, white pepper, a small quantity of
cayenne, grated nutmeg, and 2 teaspoonfuls of French
mustard ; moisten with 1 wineglassful of white wine and
the strained juice of four lemons. Put the dish in the
oven and turn the contents about occasionally so that
they may lie well seasoned. When very hot, take the
dish (which should be of silver) out of the oven, pour a
few drops of olive oil over the salmis, stir it about a
little, then serve while very hot.
(2) Wrap some Woodcocks in sheets of buttered paper
and partially roast them in front of a clear fire. When
done, cut the birds into joints, pare off the skin, and
trim them. Pound the carcases, put them in a saucepan
with the trimmings, two shallots, a clove of garlic, half
a laurel leaf, and some sprigs of parsley. Pour in some
white wine and boil gently for half an-hour. Put loz. of
butter and 1 table-spoonful of flour into a stewpan, and
stir them over the fire till browned. Skim the fat off the
sauce, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and stir it
gradually in with the brown thickening. Continue stir-
ring the liquor over the fire till boiling, then put in the
pieces of Woodcocks, and keep them simmering by the
side of the lire for ten or fifteen minutes. When ready,
put the limbs of Woodcocks on a hot dish, pour the
sauce over them, garnish with croutons of fried bread or
toast, and serve.
(3) Cover some young Woodcocks with sheets of buttered
paper, fix them on a spit, and roast them in front of a
clear lire, keeping them as much underdone as possible.
Disjoint the birds, beat them lightly, trim off all the
skin, and leave them till cold. Put two or three slices of ham
in a stewpan with 2 or 3 table- spoonfuls of chopped carrots,
three or four shallots, the same number of mushrooms, a
bay-leaf, a hunch of thyme and parsley, three cloves, six
peppercorns, 1 pinch of allspice, and a small lump of
butter. Fry the above articles till lightly coloured, then
put in the trimmings of the birds, pour in U teacupfuls
of Madeira wine, the same quantity of Spanish sauce, and
4 teacupful of stock broth. Put the lid on the stewpan,
and let the contents simmer by the side of the fire for
an-hour-and-a-half. Skim the fat off the liquor, add a
small lump of sugar to counteract the bitter taste caused
by the lungs, and strain the sauce through a fine hair
sieve into another stewpan. Put the limbs of the birds
in the liquor and warm them gradually by the side of the
fire. Turn the salmis on to a hot dish, garnish with
croutons of fried bread, and serve.
(4) Half roast two Woodcocks, basting them occasionally with
a little butter to prevent them getting too dry, then cut
them into pieces, put them in a stewpan with H breakfast-
cupfuls of rich gravy, a small onion with three cloves
stuck in it, and an anchovy ; season with salt, pepper,
and a small quantity of cayenne, and simmer gently for
fifteen minutes. Bruise the livers and trails. Place the
pieces of Woodcock on a dish and keep them hot. Put the
trails and livers in the sauce with a small piece of butter
that has been kneaded in flour, and stir it over the fire
till boiling and thickened. When taken off' the fire, mix
1 wineglassful of red wine and a squeeze of lemon-juice
with the sauce, pour it over the Woodcocks, and serve
while very hot.
(5) Cover the required quantity of birds with sheets of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, £c., referred to, see under their special heads.
794
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Woodcocks — continued.
buttered paper, and roast them in front of a clear fire,
keeping them rather underdone. When cooked, take the
intestines out of the birds. Put some finely -chopped
mushrooms, one shallot, and some parsley in a frying-pan
with a small lump of butter, anil fry them. When the
herbs are nearly cooked, put in the intestines of the
birds and three fat livers of fowls, and fry them. Put
the mixture into a mortar, pound it, season with salt,
pepper, and spices, and pass it through a fine hair sieve. Cut
the fillets off the birds, and fry some pieces of bread of
an equal size and shape in butter till nicely browned.
Warm the fillets in some sauce prepared with the bones
and trimmings of the Woodcocks. Cover the pieces of
bread with the forcemeat, and bake them in a quick oven
for a few minutes. Arrange the fillets of Woodcocks and
pieces of bread alternately in a circle on a hot dish, pour
the sauce over, and serve.
(6) Remove the trails from some Woodcocks, then wrap
the birds in sheets of buttered paper to prevent them
browning, and roast them in front of a clear fire. When
cooked, leave the birds till cold, then cut each into four
pieces, and trim off the skin. Break the bones, put
them in a saucepan with the trimmings, two or three
shallots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few cloves, and f pint
of claret. Boil the wine till reduced to half its original
quantity, then pour in lqt. of Spanish sauce. Let the
liquor simmer by the side of the tire for three quarters-of
an hour, keeping it constantly skimmed, then strain it
through a fine hair sieve into another saucepan, and boil
it till it will coat a spoon. Chop the trails, mix them
with some fat liver forcemeat, and poach them. Fry some
crofitons of bread in fat, and when of a light golden
brown spread them with the forcemeat. Warm the pieces of
Woodcock in the sauce, then arrange them on a hot dish,
pour the sauce over them, garnish with the crofitons, and
serve.
(7) Cut up some Woodcocks, arrange the pieces on a
dish, and put it on a stand over a lighted lamp fed with
spirits of wine. Add to the birds 3 good dessert-spoon-
fuls of sherry, the strained juice of three lemons, a little
butter, a small quantity of shred shallots, some raspings
of crust of bread sprinkled over the birds, and a seasoning
of salt and pepper. Let them simmer in the dish for ten
minutes, stirring them every now and then. Turn into a
hot dish, and serve.
Salmis of Woodcocks a la Chasseur.— Pluck, singe, draw,
pick out the eyes, and remove the skin from the heads of
six fine Woodcocks, wipe them, truss them by hooding
them in their breasts, put them in a roasting-pan with ^
pinch of salt, and cook for four minutes in the oven.
Put loz. of butter into a saucepan with half a raw
carrot and half a raw onion, all cut in pieces, a
small bouquet garni, and six whole peppers. Cook for five
minutes on the stove, moisten with ^ pint of Spanish
sauce, § wineglassful of sherry wine, and 3 table- spoonfuls
of mushroom liquor; season with h pinch of salt and
| pinch of pepper, and cook for fifteen minutes longer.
Stick a good sized mushroom in the bill of each bird, put
them in a saute-pan, strain over the sauce, and add twelve
mushrooms, cut into halves, and the zest of one lemon.
Cook for six minutes longer, arrange on a round dish, de-
corating it with fried bread croutons (see Fig. 1079), pour
the sauce over, and serve.
Stewed Stuffed Woodcocks. — Bone the requisite quantity
of birds, cut off some of the breast-meat, and cut it into
small pieces ; chop an equal quantity of raw truffles and
Woodcocks — continued.
fat livers, put them in a basin with the meat, season,
and baste them with 1 wineglassful of Madeira wine.
Chop the meat of the legs together with a small quantity
of pigeon flesh, put them in a mortar with an equal quan-
tity of panada, and pound them. Season the mixture to
taste, and add to it sufficient beaten eggs to bring it to
the right consistency, then pass it through a fine hair
sieve. Put the trails of the Woodcocks and six chickens’
livers in a frying-pan with some rasped bacon-fat, and fry
them. When cooked, leave the trails and livers till cold,
then pound them in a mortar, pass them through a fine
hair sieve, and add to the other pounded meat, also mix
in the breast meat and truffles that have been basted
with Madeira. Stuff the Woodcocks with the mixture,
roll them up, tie some slices of bacon round them, and
roll each one separately in a cloth. Put the birds in a
saucepan with sufficient stock to cover them, and let them
simmer gently for an hour. When cooked, drain the birds,
leave them till partly cooled, then bind them up tighter,
press them under a light weight, and leave them till
quite cold. Boil the cooking-liquor of the birds till re-
duced to half glaze; take the Woodcocks and cut the
breasts across in slices, but without removing the slices,
put them in the reduced stock, and baste them con-
stantly by the side of the fire till they are hot through.
Poach some forcemeat, and fry a block of bread, cut to
nearly the height of the Woodcocks. Coat the bread with
some of the poached forcemeat, and put the remainder on
a hot dish, standing the bread support in the centre.
Place the birds in an upright position round the bread,
putting the heads, that have been slightly cooked and
brushed over with melted glaze, between each. Garnish
three attelette skewers with truffles, and stick them in the
top of the bread. Pour over some sauce prepared with
the trimmings of the Woodcocks and truffles, and serve.
Terrine of Woodcocks. — Bone some Woodcocks, split them
in halves, put them in a dish with some quarters of
peeled truffles, an equal quantity of cooked fat ham cut
in squares, and 3 or 4 table-spoonfuls of Madeira ; season the
above ingredients well. Cut the meat oft' a leg of hare,
divide it into small pieces, put them in a deep frying-pan
with double the quantity of game livers and a lump
of butter, and fry the meat till set ; then put in the trails
of the Woodcocks, fry them, and when cooked, leave them
till cool. Chop the fried livers, &c., put them in a mortar
with a third of their quantity of chopped lean pork, the
same of fresh fat bacon, and the trimmings. Pound them
all, then season this forcemeat with some pepper, salt,
and a pinch of sweet herbs, turn it into a basin, and
strain into it the Madeira in which the Woodcocks have
been steeped. Cover the bottom and sides of a terrine with
some of the forcemeat, then fill it with alternate layers of
Woodcocks, truffles, ham, and forcemeat. When full,
smooth the surface of the pie with the blade of a knife,
and cover it with slices of bacon. Put the cover on the
terrine, place it in a saute-pan with a small quantity of
hot water, and bake it for an hour and a half in a moderate
oven. When cooked, take the terrine out of the oven, let
it remain till half cold, then put a light weight on the
top and leave it till quite cold. Cut the pie into
oblongs, arrange them in a circle in the terrine, and
serve.
Woodcocks a la Chef de Cuisine. — Put in 2qts. of water
over the fire, lib. of lean beef cut into pieces, two blades
of mace, some whole pepper, and an onion stuck with a few
cloves ; boil all these till the liquor has reduced to lqt.,
strain it, and put it at the side of the fire to keep warm.
Draw the Woodcocks, put them into the broth, and boil
them in it for twelve minutes. Mince the trail and liver
very fine, and put them in a saucepan over the fire with
about h pint of the gravy the Woodcocks are boiling in, and
a small blade of mace. Place a dish in front of the fire, and
rub on to it through a sieve the crumb of a stale French
roll. Roll 4oz. of butter in flour, add it and 1 breakfast-
cupful of port wine to the trail, put it over the fire, and
shake it round in the saucepan till the butter has quite
dissolved. Take the breadcrumbs from the dish before the fire,
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
795
Woodcocks — continued.
add them to the trail, &c., and again shake the sauce
round in the saucepan. When the Woodcocks are done,
take them up, lay them in the hot dish, pour the sauce
over them, and serve.
Woodcocks en Croustades. — Singe and bone some Woodcocks
and dust them inwardly with pepper and salt. Break the
hack and bones into small pieces, put them in a stewpan
with a lump of butter, and fry them over a clear fire till
browned ; then cover them with white wine and broth, and
let them simmer for twenty minutes. Strain the liquor
off the bones into another stewpan, boil it till reduced to
half glaze, then thicken it with 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of
sauce. Put the trails of the Woodcocks and five or six
chickens’ livers in a frying-pan with some bacon-fat, and
fry them quickly ; season them with salt and pepper,
leave them till cool, then pound them in a mortar with
half their quantity of chopped bacon and the same of panada.
Mix 3 or 4 table spoonfuls of chopped raw truffles with the
above mixture and stuff the birds with it ; roll one bird to
a round shape and the remainder to an oval shape,
fastening them securely with twine. Place two or three
rashers of bacon and some sliced vegetables, such as
carrots, turnips, and onions, at the bottom of a stewpan ;
put in the birds, sprinkle a little salt over them, pour
in to half their height some white wine and broth mixed
in equal quantities, put the lid on the pan, and braise
the birds. Cut as many small croustades of bread
as there are birds, shaping one round and the rest
oval, make a cut round on the upper surfaces with
the point of a knife, and fry them in fat till nicely
browned. When done, drain the pieces of bread, scoop
them out, and spread a thin layer of game quenelle force-
meat all over the insides. Put the croustades in the oven
and bake them till the forcemeat has set. When cooked,
tit the birds in the bread cases, and pour the sauce over
them. Arrange the croustades on an ornamental dish
paper that has been placed on a hot dish, putting the
oval shaped ones all round and the round one in the
centre, and serve while hot.
Woodcocks a la Minute. — Put into a small frying-pan over
a good fire 3oz. or 4oz. of butter, some shred shallots, a
little pepper and salt, and grated nutmeg ; when the
butter is quite hot, put a brace of Woodcocks into the
pan, fry them for seven or eight minutes, and add 1 table-
spoonful of white wine, the strained juice of two lemons,
and some raspings of crust of bread ; let the Woodcocks
remain in the pan till the sauce has boiled up once, then
put the birds on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and
serve at once.
Woodcocks a la Perigueux. — Truss some Woodcocks, put
them in a stewpan with some thin slices of fat bacon on
the top of them, pour in 1 pint of mirepoix and 4 pint of
Madeira, and cook them gently by the side of the fire.
Boil some Perigueux sauce together with some extract of
Woodcocks till reduced. When cooked, drain the birds,
put them on a hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and
serve.
Woodcock Liver Sauce. — Put 2 table spoonfuls each of
port wine and cullis and the pounded bones and livers
of six roasted Woodcocks into a saucepan, and let the liquor
simmer till of the consistency of cream ; then strain, and
add the strained juice of two oranges and a seasoning of
pepper and salt.
Woodcock Pie. — (1) Cut some Woodcocks into four pieces
each, put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter,
season them with pepper and salt, and fry for ten minutes.
Drain the Woodcocks and leave, them till cool. Chop
some cooked calf’s liver and an equal quantity of fat
bacon, put them in a mortar, and pound them, adding
the trail of the Woodcocks whilst pounding. Pass the
forcemeat through a fine hair sieve. Mix 1 pinch of salt
with lib. of flour, nib in 41b. of butter, then mix it to
a smooth paste with three beaten yolks of eggs and a
small quantity of cold water, and roll the paste out on
a floured table. Butter an entree pie-mould and line
it evenly with the paste. Place a layer of the force
meat at the bottom of the mould, leaving a hollow in
Woodcocks — continued.
the centre, put a layer of the Woodcocks on the force-
meat, then another layer of the forcemeat, and so on,
till the mould is full, finishing with a layer of forcemeat.
Cut a block of bread to fit the hollow in the centre of
the pie, bind a piece of fat bacon round it, and fix it in.
Cover the pie with a flat of paste, trim the edges, moisten
them with water, and pinch them together. Brush the
pie over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, and
bake it in a moderate oven. Cut into thin slices some
cooked truffles and mix them with some Spanish sauce
that has been reduced with some essence of truffles.
When cooked, lift the cover oil' the pie, and remove the
piece of bread from the centre. Put the pie on a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a dish, fill the
hollow left by the bread with the truffles and sauce.
Arrange a circle of cocks’ kernels on the top of the force-
meat, put some more sliced truffles in the middle, and serve.
(2) Singe and bone four Woodcocks, put the trail in a
mortar and pound it. Trim off the skin and gristle from
14lb. of fillet of veal and an equal quantity of fat bacon,
chop them, pound in the mortar, and mix them with the
trails. Spread the birds open, season them with salt and
spices, put a layer of forcemeat on them, then some slices
of truffles, and roll the birds up to an oval shape.
Butter a cold pie-mould, line it with puff paste, put at
the bottom a thin layer of the forcemeat, then two of the
Woodcocks, put a few slices of truffles on the top, cover
them with forcemeat, then put in the remaining birds, proceed
as before, and cover them with thin slices of fat bacon. Put a
cover of paste over the pie, moistening and pinching the edges
together, place another puff paste cover on the top of that,
just damping it to make it adhere, brush it over with
beaten egg, then with a sharp pointed knife draw a
fancy pattern on it, make a hole in the centre, and bake the
pie in a moderate oven for two hours. When cooked,
leave the pie till it has cooled a little, then pour in
through the hole in the top some melted aspic jelly that
has been mixed with some reduced essence of Woodcocks.
When quite cold, put the pie on a folded napkin or a
lace edged dish-paper on a dish, and serve.
Woodcock Puree en Croustade. -Pick the flesh from the
bones and skin of some cold roasted Woodcocks, chop it, put
it in a mortar, and pound it. Moisten the pounded meat
with some Spanish sauce, pass it through a fine hair
sieve into a saucepan, put in a lump of butter, and stir it
by the side of the tire. Cut eight slices of bread into the
shape of hearts, and cut out one round piece. Put a
lump of butter in a frying-pan, and when on the point of
boiling, put in the pieces of bread and fry them till brown;
drain the pieces of bread, scoop out the centres to leave
as little crumb as possible, and put them on a hot dish,
arranging them with the points of the hearts meeting in
the middle, and the round piece of bread over the points.
Pour the puree into the pieces of bread, and serve them.
Woodcock Puree with. Plover’s Eggs. -Trim the flesh of
some cold roast Woodcock, chop it, and pound it in a mortar.
Break the bones and put them in a saucepan with some
trimmings of ham, the trimmings of the birds, some slices
of carrot, turnip, and onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 1
teacupful of white wine, and a small quantity of thick
gravy. When boiling, move the saucepan to the side of
the fire, anil let the sauce simmer gently for fifteen
minutes ; then strain the sauce through a line hair sieve
into another saucepan, and boil it quickly till reduced to
half glaze. Put the trails, f teacupful of boiled rice, and
a lump of butter, into the mortar, and pound them ; then
mix them with the pounded meat and pass the whole
through a fine hair sieve. Put the puree into a stewpan
and stir it over the fire till hot, adding gradually about
two-thirds of the above reduced liquor. Boil some lap-
wing’s or plover’s eggs in water for eight minutes. Turn
the puree into a hot dish, pour the remainder of the half-
glaze over it, garnish with the eggs, and serve.
Woodcock Souffles. — Separate the meat from the bones of
some cooked Woodcocks, trim off the skin anil sinews, and
pound it in a mortar with a piece of butter, the trails, and
1 teacupful of cold cooked rice. Season the pounded
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
796
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Woodcocks — continued.
mixture to taste, and pass it through a fine hair sieve.
Turn the puree into a saucepan and stir it over the fire
till slightly warmed, then take it off and mix in the
beaten yolks of six and the well whipped whites of four eggs.
Butter some small but rather deep paper souffle cases, stand
them on a buttered baking-sheet, and fill them with the
above mixture. Put the souffles in a rather slack oven,
and bake them for eighteen or twenty minutes. When
cooked, take the souffles out of the oven, put them on a
folded napkin or ornamental dish paper that has been
placed on a hot dish, and serve without delay.
Woodcock-and-Truffle Souffles. — Separate the flesh from
the bones of some cold roasted Woodcocks, trim off the skin
and sinewy parts, and put the flesh into a mortar with 3
or 4 table-spoonfuls of cold cooked rice, pound them, put
in 2 table-spoonfuls of sauce, and pass the mixture through
a fine hair sieve. With the bones and the trimmings
prepare a small quantity of broth, pass it through a fine
hair sieve into another saucepan, thicken it with a few
table-spoonfuls of sauce, and boil till reduced to half
glaze. Boil 1 teacupful of chopped truffles in a little
Madeira wine, and when cooked add them to the Wood-
cock puree. Mix the sauce, the beaten yolks of four eggs,
and a small piece of butter with the puree. Work the
ingredients well, season the mixture with salt and pepper,
and beat in the well-whipped whites of six eggs. Butter
a souffle pan, pour in the souffle, and bake it in a rather
slack oven for half an-hour. When cooked, stand the
souffle in the mould on a dish, and serve without delay.
WOOD-HENS. — Although it is the opinion of
gourmets that the female bird of this particular family is
not so good or well-flavoured as the male, nevertheless it
can be prepared in many ways so that it would be almost
impossible to distinguish one from the other. The mode
of preparing and trussing is the same in both cases.
Broiled Wood-hens. — Draw the birds, and truss them
with their legs tucked into the body ; singe, and split them
into halves lengthwise, beat each piece lightly, season and
brush them over with clarified butter, and coat them with
breadcrumbs. Grease a gridiron, heat it, put the pieces
of Wood-hen on it, and broil over a clear but moderate
fire ; turn them when brown on one side and brown on
the other. When cooked, arrange the Wood-hens on a
folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper that has been
placed on a hot dish, garnish them with parsley, and
serve with a sauceboatful of cold tartar sauce.
Wood-hens a la Husse. — Singe and truss the birds
as for roasting (French style), season with salt and pepper,
put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter, and fry
them over a moderate fire till nicely browned. Pour a
small quantity of cream over the birds, and finish cooking
them, basting frequently with it. When cooked, drain
the Wood-hens and arrange them on a dish that will bear
the heat of the oven. Mix about 1 breakfast cupful of
bechamel sauce with the cooking sauce of the birds, and
Fig. 1080. Wood hens a la Russe.
boil it till reduced to a thick consistency. Pour the sauce
over the birds, cover them thickly with breadcrumbs, and
put the dish in the oven. When tire breadcrumbs are
browned, take the dish out of the oven, garnish with
watercress and slices of lemon (see Fig. 1080), and serve.
Wood-hen Cake or Pain a la Suedoise. — Cut the fillets
off the breast of some Wood liens, trim, chop, and pound
them to a paste in a mortar. Mix with the pounded
W ood-hens — con tinned.
meat half its quantity of butter and a few beaten yolks
of eggs, season the mixture, pass it through a fine hair
sieve into a basin, work it with a wooden spoon for a
few minutes, then mix in the well whipped white of an
egg and a table-spoonful of whipped cream. Butter a
timbale mould, fill it with the mixture, stand the mould
in a stewpan, surround it with boiling water, and steam
it for half an hour. Reduce some bechamel sauce with
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of meat glaze. Turn the pain out
of the mould on to a hot dish, pour a small quantity of
the sauce over it, and serve with the remainder in a
sauceboat.
Wood-hen Cake or Pain with Truffles. — Cut the fillets
off some cold cooked Wood liens, trim, chop, and put
them in a mortar with some rice panada and some
butter, using lOoz. each of panada and butter to every
pound of meat. Pound the above ingredients till smooth,
season the mixture, and mix in gradually a sufficient
quantity of beaten yolks of eggs and cream to bring it
to the consistency of quenelle forcemeat. Pass the
mixture through a fine hair sieve into a basin, and try
the consistency by poaching a small quantity in boiling
water. Butter the interior of a plain cylindric mould,
fill it with the forcemeat, put it in a saucepan, surround
it with boiling water, and steam it for half an-hour.
Cover a tin column, the same height as the mould, with
paste, glaze it with beaten egg, and bake. Fix the column
in the centre of a dish, wipe the mould, turn it on to a dish,
fix the column in the cylinder, and remove the mould.
Fix a small vase or cup in the centre, fill it with some
turned truffles, and garnish the bottom of the pain with
a circle of cocks’ combs and truffles, arranging them in
alternate order. Serve the pain with a sauceboatful of
veloute sauce that has been reduced with some essence of
truffles.
Wood-ken Cutlets a la Pojarski. — These cutlets took their
name from a landlord of a restaurant near St. Petersburg,
who obtained great renown from his method of cooking
them. Cut the meat off the breasts of some Wood-hens,
trim off the skin and sinews, chop and pound it in a
mortar, adding gradually in small pieces a quarter of their
quantity of butter, and seasoning to taste with pepper, salt,
and grated nutmeg. Divide the mixture into small equal
portions, shape them on a floured table like cutlets, and
stick a small piece of well-cleaned bone at the pointed
end of each. Brush the cutlets over with beaten egg, and
coat them thickly with breadcrumbs. Put a lump of
butter into a frying pan, warm it, then put in the cutlets,
and fry them on both sides till nicely browned. When
cooked, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish, pom-
over the remainder of the butter in which they were fried,
and serve.
Wood-hen Pie. — (1) Skin, bone, and remove the fillets of
four Wood-hens, divide each of the fillets into halves, put
them in a deep dish with lib. of raw ham that has been
washed and cut into squares, season them, and baste with
a small quantity of cognac. Skin and chop the flesh off
the thighs, put it in a mortar with the chopped fillets of
two fowls, and pound them. Chop and pound an equal
quantity of lean veal and double the quantity of fresh
bacon, then mix the pounded meats together. Season the
forcemeat well, and mix with it a few table spoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms that have been cooked with a
teaspoonful of chopped onions. Butter a cold pie-mould,
stand it on a baking sheet that has been covered with
a sheet of paper, and line it with short paste. Spread a
layer of the forcemeat all round the bottom and sides of
the pie mould, then fill it with alternate layers of the
soaked fillets, ham, and forcemeat, building it in a dome
shape and raising it above the rim of the mould. Put
some thin slices of fat bacon on the top, then a round of
paste, damp the edges, and press them together. Put
another flat round of paste on the top, slightly damping
it underneath to make it adhere, and with a knife draw
a scroll or fancy design on the paste, making a hole in
the centre. Brush the pie over with beaten egg, bake it
for two hours in a moderate oven, covering it with paper
For details respecting Culinary Processes. Utensils, Sauces, *£c., referred to, see under their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
797
Wood-hens — continued.
when it begins to take colour. When cooked, take the
pie out of the oven, leave it for half an- hour, then filter
in through the top a breakfast cupful of melted aspic jelly,
in which has been mixed a small quantity of wine and a
small quantity of either gravy or meat glaze. When quite
cold, take the pie out of the mould, put it on a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a dish, and serve.
The backs and bones of these birds should be used as
little as possible, on account of their bitterness.
(2) Cold. — Cut the flesh from the bones of some Wood-
hens — say three, for instance — trim off the skin and
sinews, put it in a basin with lib. of coarsely chopped
raw truffles, and baste them with about 2 wineglassfuls of
Madeira. Melt some fat bacon in a frying-pan, then put
in the livers and entrails of the Wood- hens with some
raw poultry livers, and fry them over a quick fire. When
cooked, season the livers, &c., well, leave them till cool,
then pound in a mortar and pass them through a fine
hair sieve. Cut the meat off four hares’ legs into small
pieces, trimming off at the same time all the skin and
tough parts, fry it with some bacon, season it with salt
and pepper, allow it to cool, then pound and pass it
through a fine hair sieve, mixing it with the pounded
livers. Chop some equal quantities of lean veal, bacon,
and fresh pork, mix them together, pound in a mortar,
and pass the mince through a fine hair sieve, seasoning
it with pepper and salt, and mix in the above pounded
meats with it. Butter a low-shaped channeled pie-mould,
set it on a baking-sheet that has been covered with
buttered paper, line the mould with a short crust, then
coat the inside with some of the pounded mixture, till
it with alternate layers of the Wood-hen and truffles that
have been basted with Madeira, and layers of the force-
meat, building it to a dome. Cover the pie with a flat
of paste, trim off the edges, moistening and pinching them
together. Roll out the trimmings of the paste, and cut
some fancy leaves out of it, make a hole in the top of
the pie, arrange the leaves round it, brushing them over
with a paste brush dipped in water to make them adhere,
then with a sharp-pointed knife sketch a design all round.
Brush the pie all over with beaten egg, and bake it in
a moderate oven for two hours, covering it after it has
been in ten minutes with a sheet of paper. When
cooked, take the pie out of the oven, leave it till half
cold, then pour in through a small funnel, fixed in the
hole at the top, 1 teacupful of liquid aspic jelly that has
been mixed with a small quantity of Madeira. Pick out
the neatest looking of the Wood-hens’ heads, having the
plumage on it, trim off the neck, and fix a small block
of carrot in the head to keep it up firmly. When cold,
put the pie on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper that has been placed on a round dish, fix the head in
the opening at the top of the pie, and serve when ready.
WOOD-PIGEONS.— A species of wild bird, closely
allied in every respect to the domestic pigeon. Receipts
for its cooking will be found under Pigeons.
WOODRUFF. — See Asperule Odorante.
WOOD-SORREL. — This plant ( Oxalis acetosella) is
now but little used in cookery, although there can be
little doubt that it gave the name to the celebrated soup
known as Julienne, and this by a most remarkable
metamorphosis of the name by which it was called
throughout Europe. In Ireland it is known as the
shamrock, which tradition tells us was made use of by
St. Patrick as an example of the Trinity, or three
in one. This produced for it the popular name of
Allelujah. In Italy this word was corrupted into Lujula;
thence in Southern Italy it became Giuliola ; and in
France it appeared as Julienne.
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE. -See Sauces.
WORMWOOD (TV. Absinthe ; Ger. Wermuth ; Hal.
Assenzio ; Sp. Axenjo). — A plant ( Artemisia Absinthium)
closely allied to southernwood and tarragon. It was
at one time largely cultivated in this country for the
purpose of producing bitters for beer. Its use for this
Wormwood — continued.
purpose was discontinued by Act of Parliament, but as
its bitter principle was believed to possess tonic and
other medicinal properties, it has been used by conti-
nental liqueur makers in the production of absinthe,
vermouth, and a species of bitters.
WORT.— The name given by brewers to a malt
liquid before its conversion into beer by fermentation.
WREXHAM PUDDING.— -See Puddings.
YAMS (TV. Ignames; Ger. Y amskartoffeln ) . — Strictly
speaking, this is an American root, consisting of numerous
Fig. 1081. Common Yams.
species of the Dioscorea family. Those best known to us
(Dioscorea sativa) are large, fleshy, tuberous roots (see
Fig. 1081), resembling Jerusalem artichokes in peculiarity
Fig. 1082. Chinese or Fig. 1083. Sweet Potato.
Japanese Yams.
of irregular growth, and potatoes in constitution.
Lindley informs us that the Yams most commonly
For details respecting Culinary Processes , Utensils , Sauces , d'C. , referred to , see under their special heads.
798
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Y ams —continued .
Yams — continued.
employed for culinary purposes vary greatly in size and
colour, according to the species or variety producing
them ; “ many attain a length of two or three feet, and
weigh from 301b. to 401b. ; some are white, others
purplish throughout, while some have a purple skin with
whitish flesh, and others are pink, or even black. Like
potatoes they contain a large quantity of starch, and a
nutritious meal used for making cakes, puddings, &c., is
prepared from them in the West Indies, where also they
are commonly sliced and dried in the sun in order to
preserve them. One species, the Chinese or J apanese Yam
(see Fig. 1082) ( Dioscorea Batatas), has recently come into
notice in this country, where it has been recommended for
cultivation as a substitute for the potato ; but although
it succeeds very well when properly managed, it has not
as yet found much favour among agriculturists. The
chief drawback connected with it is the great depth to
which its roots penetrate into the earth, and the conse-
quent difficulty of extracting them. It is extensively
grown and used for food in China and Japan.”
It bears a close resemblance to the Spanish sweet
potato (see Potatoes), as may be seen by comparing the
two illustrations — Figs. 1082 and 1083.
In America, where the entire Dioscorea family thrive
excellently, and in other countries, the close likeness of
the Yam to the sweet batata (or potato) sometimes leads
to confusion. There is no material difference in the
culinary process, but from a botanical point of view the
characteristics are marked. Here we see the Yam and
the Yam batata or sweet potato — all Yams, but not all
sweet potatoes, although included in the category by
custom. Any kind of Yams may be used in the following
receipts :
Baked Yams. — Thoroughly wash between 111), and 21b. of
small Yams, dry them in a cloth, put them into a
hot oven, and bake until they are soft to the touch. Spread
a folded napkin on a hot dish, arrange the Yams on it,
and serve with salt, pepper, and butter.
Boiled Yams. — Peel and wasli lib. or more of small Yams;
pour clean water over them, and leave them in it for a
short time. Take them out, put them in a saucepan,
cover them with cold salted water, and boil slowly
until they are soft. Drain them well, let them remain in
the saucepan for a minute or so, then turn into a vege-
table-dish with a folded napkin under them, and serve.
Broiled Yams. — Cut five or six small cooked peeled
Yams into halves, lay them on a dish, dust them over
with salt, and baste with 2 or 3 table- spoonfuls of
melted butter ; roll the Yams well in it, arrange them on
a double broiler, and broil over or before a clear lire,
allowing three or four minutes for each side. Spread a
folded napkin over a hot dish, arrange the Yams on it,
and serve.
Creamed Yams. — Cut Jib. of cold boiled Yams into small
pieces about Jin. square, put them into a flat baking-
tin, dust over with salt, cover them with cream, put the
pan into a moderate oven, and bake them until nearly
all the cream is absorbed. Then add 1 table -spoonful
of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, some
pepper, and more salt. Toss them up in this seasoning,
return to the oven for a minute or so, then turn them
into a hot vegetable-dish, and serve.
Curried Yams. — Cut about lib. or 211). of cold rather
underdone Yams into slices ; peel and slice two or three
onions, put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter,
and fry them until lightly browned ; then put in the
sliced Yams, dust them over with salt, pepper, and a
sufficient quantity of curry-powder, baste them with a
few table-spoonfuls of clear stock, add the juice of a
lemon, and toss them over the fire for a few minutes.
Serve on a hot dish, with or without boiled rice.
Fried Yams. — Peel and wash one or two large Yams, and
cut them into thin slices. Have ready a stewpan half
filled with boiling fat, lay the slices of Yams in a frying
basket, plunge them into the boiling fat, and fry until
they are soft. Lift them out, drain, dust over with
salt, and turn them on to a hot dish over which has been
spread a folded napkin. Serve very hot.
Glazed Yams. — Boil about lib. of Yams, being careful they
are not overdone; peel them, roll them in beaten yolk of
egg, and brown in front of a clear brisk fire. Serve on a
folded napkin on a hot dish.
Mashed Yams. — Peel, wash, and cut up the Yams into
moderate- sized pieces, put them into a saucepan with a
lump of salt and water to cover them, and boil gently
until soft. Drain the Yams, and mash them well (this is
best done with a pestle and mortar). For each breakfast-
cupful of the pulp allow loz. of butter and 4 teacupful of
milk ; put these latter ingredients into a saucepan, place
them over the fire until hot, then stir in the Yam pulp.
and mix all well together, adding plenty of salt. Turn the
mash into a hot vegetable- dish, mark it over the top with
the prongs of a fork, and brown in front of the fire or
under a salamander. Serve hot on a flat dish covered with
a folded napkin (see Fig. 1084).
Steamed Yams. — Peel and wash the Yams, and leave
them covered with cold water for ten minutes. Put them
in a steamer over a pan of boiling water, and cook them
until tender. Turn them into a hot vegetable-dish, and
serve at once.
Stewed Yams. — Peel and cut Jib. of Yams into small
pieces, put them in a stewpan with 2oz. of butter, a
peeled and chopped onion, 1 .teaspoonful of common salt
and celery salt mixed, 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley,
and | teacupful of water. Boil gently until the Yams
are soft, then pour in 1 teacupful of milk in which 1
table-spoonful of flour has been mixed ; add a few drops
of vinegar or lemon juice, and stir until boiling. Boil for
ten minutes, then turn the stew on to a hot dish, and
serve.
Stuffed Yams. — Finely chop lib. of beef steak, mix with it
4 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, salt and pepper to
taste, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Select
eight medium sized Yams of nearly equal size, peel them
thinly, wash them, and cut a small piece off the top of
each.' Scoop out the insides, leaving a wall about Jin. in
thickness, and stuff them with the prepared meat. Roll
the Yams and their tops in beaten egg, and then iix the
tops firmly in their places again, l’ut a large piece of
butter in a stewpan over the fire, and when the blue
smoke rises, put in the Yams, cover the pan, move it to
the side of the fire, and let them stew until soft, turning
them occasionally so that they may be evenly browned.
When cooked, drain the Yams, arrange them in an
upright position on a hot dish over which has been spread
a folded napkin, garnish them with fried parsley, and
serve.
Yams d la Barigoule. — Select eight or ten equal-sized small
Yams, or cut large Yams into eight or ten equal
sized pieces. Peel and wash them, put them into a
saucepan, cover with clear broth, and boil until soft.
Drain the Yams, being careful not to break them. Pour
3 or 4 table-spoonfuls of olive oil into a deep frying-pan
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <bc., referred to, see under their special heads .
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
799
Yams — continued.
place it over the fire, and when hot, put in the Yams, and
fry them until lightly and equally browned. Drain them,
arrange on a hot dish, dust them over with salt and
pepper, sprinkle them with a little vinegar, and serve.
Yams au Gratin. — Scrub some small Yams and boil them
with their skins on ; when cooked, peel, and mash them
until quite smooth. Spread a layer of the mashed Yams
in a baking-dish, put in two or three small bits of butter
and some grated Parmesan cheese, cover with another
layer of the mash, add cheese and butter as before, and so
on until all is used up or the dish full, put cheese and
butter over the top, brown under a hot salamander or
before a clear fire, and serve.
Yams a l’ltalienne. — Boil some Yams in their skins until
soft and floury, then peel, and mash them well with a
fork. Separate the whites and yolks of two eggs, beat
the yolks in with the mashed Yams, together with 2
table-spoonfuls of thick cream and 1 table- spoonful of
dissolved butter and salt. Whisk the whites of the eggs
to a stiff froth, beat them in with the mash, and turn the
whole into a buttered baking dish, roughing the top with
a fork. Brown in a brisk oven. Place the tin on a hot
dish, fold a napkin round it, and serve quickly.
Yams a la Maitre d’Hotel. — -Cut some cold cooked Yams
into rather thick slices. Dissolve about 2oz. of butter in a
fiat stewpan, stir in 4 table spoonful of flour, and when
smooth, mix in gradually l pint of clear broth, and con-
tinue stirring over the fire until boiling. Next put in the
sliced Yams with some finely-chopped parsley, salt, and
pepper to taste, and toss them about for two or three
minutes, then move the pan to the side of the fire. Beat
the yolk of one egg with the strained juice of half
a lemon and a small quantity of cold water, and stir it in
with the Yams. Turn the whole on to a hot dish, and
serve.
Yam Balls. — Peel and boil lib. of Yams, and when cooked,
drain and mash them well, and rub them through a wire
sieve ; then mix them up with 4 table-spoon fuls of grated
ham, 2 teaspoonfuls of finely-chopped onions, a moderate
quantity of chopped parsley or finely-powdered dried sweet
herbs, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. Moisten
the whole with the beaten yolks of two eggs. Form the
Fig. 1085. Yam Balls.
mixture into balls, flour or egg-and-breadcrumb them, and
fry in boiling fat until nicely browned. Drain the balls,
place them on a hot dish over which has been spread a
folded napkin, or fold a napkin boat-shaped and put them
in (see Fig. 1085), and serve.
Yam Cassolettes.— Peel and boil lib. of Yams, and when
cooked, drain and mash them smoothly; mix with them,
in moderate quantities, some powdered thyme and mace’
grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. Now add two well-beaten
eggs and 1 table-spoonful of dissolved butter, and work
the whole into a smooth paste, which mould into small
cakes. Fry them in boiling fat until nicely browned, or
they may be poached in the oven. Pile them on a ’ hot
dish covered with a folded napkin or arranged as for Yam
Balls (see Fig. 1085), and serve.
Yam Cream.— Put the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs
ilb- of caster sugar, and 1 table-spoonful of Yam flour
into a stewpan ; stir the mixture over a slow fire with a
Yams — continued.
wooden spoon, adding gradually 1 breakfast-cupful of cold
water. When the mixture has thickened and is on the
point of boiling, pour it into a basin and leave it until
cool. Mix 4 table spoonfuls of apricot marmalade with 1
wineglassful of rum and 4oz. of gelatine dissolved in £
pint of water, and stir it in with the above mixture.
Pass the whole through a fine hair sieve into a basin, and
stir it over ice until thickened ; pour it into a cylinder
mould and pack it in ice for an hour or two. Before
serving, dip the mould in tepid water, and turn the cream
on to a fancy dish.
Yam Croquettes. — Peel and boil four or five small Yams, break
them up, and put them into a mortar with half their
weight of butter and the same quantity of powdered
white sugar. Pound the mixture well and mix with it
the grated peel of half a lemon, a small quantity of salt,
and two well-beaten eggs. Divide the paste into small
portions, which shape like corks; egg-and-breadcrumb them,
leave for an hour, then egg-and-breadcrumb them again,
and fry in boiling fat until nicely browned. Drain them
well, arrange on a hot dish over which has been spread a
folded napkin, garnish them with fried parsley, and serve.
Yam Flour. — Peel and well wash several Yams, and grate
them on a coarse cheese-grater ; put the flour into deep
dishes with plenty of water, and let it stand twelve or
fourteen hours. Next strain ott’ the water, which will
carry away a portion of the fibrous matter, add more
water, stirring well, then leave it for twelve hours longer.
Repeat this operation until the white sediment is quite
free from fibrous matter, then drain oil' all the water and
leave the flour until dry. Afterwards pass it through a
fine hair sieve, and keep it in well-corked bottles. It is
excellent for cakes or puddings in the place of wheat
flour, and as a substitute for potato-flour.
Yam Fritters. — (1) Put 6 table-spoonfuls of the mash of
cold boiled Yams into a basin with 4 table-spconfuls
of cream, mix lightly, and pass the compound through a
fine sieve; beat up the yolks of five eggs with 2oz. of
powdered white sugar, stir this in with the Yam paste,
and whisk the whole until creamy. Next stir in the
strained juice and grated peel of half a lemon, 1 heaped
table-spoonful of self-raising wheat flour, and a little
grated nutmeg. Beat the whole for a few minutes longer,
then stir in the well-whisked whites of five eggs. Put a
large lump of lard into a deep frying-pan, place it over
the fire, and when the lard is boiling, drop in table-
spoonfuls of the batter. Fry the fritters until lightly
browned, drain them well, and serve them piled on a hot
dish with wine sauce in a tureen.
(2) Scrub four or five Yams, and bake them in a brisk
oven ; when soft, take them out, scrape out all the pulp
from the skins, and pass it through a fine hair sieve.
Add a third of its quantity of butter, sufficient vanilla
sugar to sweeten, and the beaten yolks of seven eggs.
Well mix, turn into a saucepan, and stir over a slow
fire until quite smooth, then turn it on to a baking-dish
and let it get cool. Then divide into equal-sized pieces,
roll them into the shape of a cork, flatten them with a
knife, and cut into small rounds with a tin cutter. Egg-
and breadcrumb them, and fry in boiling fat until nicely
browned ; drain the fritters, roll them in caster sugar, put
them on a napkin placed on a dish, and serve with lemon
cut into half quarters.
Yams en Chateau. — Mash some cold boiled Yams and
mix with them some cold chopped green vegetable of any
kind, adding seasoning to taste. Put a large piece of
butter into a stewpan, ami when melted, stir in the above
mixture and keep it over the fire until hot through.
Press the mixture into a buttered mould shaped like a
castle if procurable, and put it into a quick oven until
nicely browned. Spiread a folded napkin over a hot dish,
turn the shape out of the mould on to the napkin, and
serve.
Yam Omelet. — Beat four eggs with 1 teacupful of milk,
add to H breakfast-cupfuls of mashed boiled Yam, and
mix thoroughly. Season with salt, pepper, and powdered
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, &c., referred to. see under their special heads.
800
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Yams— continued.
lievbs. Cut Jib. of lean bacon into small squares, put
them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and fry until
nicely browned. Mix in the mashed Yam, and stir the
whole over the fire until set, then leave till nicely browned
on both sides. Fold the omelet over and serve.
Yam Pie. — Peel some moderate-sized Yams and cut them
into thin slices. Butter the edges of a large pie- dish and
line it with a good crust. Out a loin of mutton into
chops, and trim off the bones and some of the fat. Cut
three sheep’s kidneys into slices, and a cow-heel into small
pieces. Put these ingredients, without the slices of Yam,
into the pie-dish, mixing with them some chopped mush-
rooms, bearded oysters, a sliced onion, and seasoning to
taste. Moisten with a small quantity of water and cover
with a thick layer of the sliced Yams. Next cover the
pie with a thin flat of paste, moisten and press the edges
together, trimming the paste off neatly, and make a hole
in the centre. Cover the pie with a sheet of paper and
bake it in a moderate oven. Stew the bones of the
mutton and cow-heel with the trimmings of mushrooms
and oysters in 1 pint of water, until all the goodness is
extracted, then strain the liquor and keep it hot. When
the pie is cooked, pour the gravy in with a funnel through
the hole at the top, and serve hot.
Yam Puree. — -Peel and wash a sufficient quantity of Yams,
and boil them until tender ; drain them and rub them
through a fine hair sieve. Put a moderate-sized lump of
butter into a stewpan over the fire, and when it has dis-
solved, stir in the mash with sufficient milk and white
stock mixed in equal quantities to bring it to the con-
sistency of cream. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg, and continue stirring over the fire with a
wooilen spoon until boiling. Serve the puree on a hot
dish.
Yam Rissoles. — Mash some cold boiled Yams with a lump
of butter and two or three well beaten eggs, and season
to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the mixture into
small pieces and mould them into egg-shaped balls. Roll
them in grated breadcrumbs and beaten egg, then bread-
crumb them again. Fry the rissoles in boiling fat- until
equally browned, drain them for a minute on a sheet of
kitchen paper in front of the fire, pile them on a hot
dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve.
Yam Salad. — Cut some cold boiled Yams into nice slices.
Rub the inside of a salad-bowl over with garlic, and
arrange the slices of Yams in it. Mix 4 table-spoonfuls
of salad oil with H table -spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
season it with salt and pepper, and pour it over the slices
of Yam. Chop and mix together, in small quantities,
some chervil, tarragon, mint, and parsley, strew them over
the salad, and serve.
Yam Sautes. — Cut some cold boiled Yams into slices. Melt
a moderate-sized piece of butter in a frying-pan, put in
the slices of Yam, dust them over with salt and pepper,
add finely-chopped parsley, and toss them over the fire for
a few minutes until they are a golden brown. Drain the
slices, turn them on to a hot dish, and serve.
Yam Snow. — Well wash some Yams and boil them in their
skins. When tender, drain and peel them, and rub them
through a coarse sieve on to a hot dish. Serve immediately.
Yam Souffle. — (1) Thoroughly wash five or six medium-
sized Yams, and bake them in a quick oven for three-
quarters-of-an hour. Take them out and cut them into
halves lengthwise. Scrape out all the pulp into a hot
basin, and mix it with a teacupful of milk, the whites of
two eggs, . loz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste. Fill
the half-skins with this mixture, brash them over thickly
with beaten white of egg, and bake in a moderate oven
until lightly browned on the top. Put them on a hot
dish, and serve.
(2) Boil two moderate-sized Yams, and when soft, take
off the skins, and pass them through a fine wire sieve.
Beat this up with the yolks of four eggs, sweeten to taste
with white sugar, and flavour with essence of vanilla.
Yams — continued.
Whisk the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, and stir
them lightly hi with the above mixture. Turn it into a
buttered souffle mould, and bake for twenty minutes. When
the souffle is cooked, pin a folded napkin round the tin,
and serve.
Yam Soup. — -Boil ljlb. of Yams, and when cooked, take off
the skins, and pass the Yams through a fine wire sieve.
Melt loz. of butter in a stewpan, mix in a table-spoonful
of arrowroot or cornflour, and stir it over the fire until
well browned. Next put in the Yam pulp with as much
nicely -flavoured stock as will make 2qts. of soup, and
continue stirring over the fire until boiling. Turn the
soup into a tureen, and serve it with sippets of toast.
Yam Straws. — Peel and wash lib. of Yams, and cut them
into slices about Jin. thick. Put them into a saucepan
with plenty of boiling salted water, and boil until tender.
Drain the slices in a colander until dry, dust them over
with salt and pepper, then press them through the colander
with a vegetable masher on to a hot dish, moving the
colander backwards and forwards so that the pulp lays on
the dish in long rows. When all the Yams have been
pressed through, wipe the edge of the dish with a cloth,
place it in the oven for two or three minutes, then serve.
Yam Timbale. — Bake 21b. of Yams, and when cooked,
scrape out the pulp, which put into a mortar with 6oz.
of crushed loaf sugar, 4oz. of butter, 4oz. of powdered
macaroons, and a small quantity of salt ; pound these
ingredients well, then mix with them the beaten yolks of
six eggs, the whites of two, loz. of finely-chopped candied
orange-flowers, and a teacupful of whipped cream. Butter
a timbale mould, line it with puff paste, fill it with the
mixture, and bake for half-an-hour. When cooked, turn
the timbale out of the mould on to a dish, and serve
immediately.
Yam Roll. — Boil 21b. of Yams, and when cooked, drain
them. Put them into a mortar and pound to a pulp,
mixing in gradually 4 wineglassful of white wine and a
small quantity each of grated nutmeg and beaten mace.
Next mix in well the yolks of two eggs and 1 table-
spoonful of warmed butter. Strew some grated bread-
crumbs over a paste board, turn the mixture on to it,
form it into a roll, coating it with the breadcrumbs, put
it into a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a slow oven
for fifteen or twenty minutes. Make a sauce as follows:
Beat the yolk of an egg up with 1 teacupful of white
wine, loz. of caster sugar, and a small quantity of grated
nutmeg. Put the basin in a saucepan of boiling water,
and stir until the sauce is thick. Turn the roll on to a
hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve.
YARMOUTH BLOATERS.— Nee Bloaters.
YEAST (Fr. Ferment ; Ger. Giisclit ; Ital. and
Sp. Fermento). — Before the introduction of baking-
powder, pastrycooks and bread-bakers were at the mercy
of the brewers, whose “ barm” was at no time free from
incidental flavours or impurities, acquired by the careless
mode of its collection and storing. In other words,
brewers’ Yeast has always been, and now is, quite
unfit for bread- or pastry-making, and thus as a
judicious measure, refuge was taken in the numerous
baking-powders that have been introduced to the market.
Of some of these powders the least said the better ( see
Baking-powders); but even the very best is inferior
to Yeast, for the sole reason that the effervescence
producing the carbonic acid gas, which forms the
leaven, forms at the same time a powerful salt — tartrate
of potass or soda. When leavening could not be obtained
by these means, bakers have used a volatile salt
(ammonia) or bicarbonate of soda in such quantities that
it would act upon the fat used in making the pastry
and by saponification render it brittle and the pastry
“ short.” Here, again, the ammonia or soda remains
in the paste to be devoured with it.
It may be argued that Yeast also remains in the bread
i to be devoured with it ; but it must also be remembered
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <f -c., referred to, see under their special heads.
ARTISTIC SWEET ENTREMETS.
Sava rin Cake. 3. Par meq nets with Preserves.
Pineapple Bavaroise. 4. Croqenbouclie of Small Chous.
802
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Yeast — continued.
spoonful of salt. Leave the mixture till blood warm, then
put in 1 breakfast- cupful of fresh Yeast or break up in
it an ounce cake of compressed Yeast, and leave it to
rise in a warm temperature for five or six hours. When
well risen, turn the Yeast into a stone jar, cork it tightly,
and keep it in a cool place.
(5) Boil two dozen well-washed potatoes in a saucepan of
water. When cooked, pour off the water and fill the
saucepan up with fresh, and boil it. Put 21b. of flour in
a large pan, turn the potatoes and liquor into it, and
mash them all together. Mix 1 teacupful of brown sugar
with the above ingredients, and stir in sufficient iced
water to bring it to the consistency of cream. Scald out
a stone jar that will hold 6galls., put a wire sieve over it,
and strain in the Yeast. When blood warm, mix lqt. of
fresh Yeast with it to start it. Keep the Yeast in a
warm temperature from twelve to twenty-four hours,
according to the weather, activity, and need of using. It
will then be ready for use. Keep it in a cool place.
From the foregoing receipts it may be understood that
Yeast can be readily produced and grown in large quanti-
ties provided the right pabulum be used, and especially if
a small quantity of mature Yeast be used to start it.
But as Yeast can be produced without using stock Yeast
to start the fermentation, it is quite evident that Yeast
cells are to be found in the flour, and exist in the sub-
stance of the materials used. It is the law of nature that
every organic creation shall carry its own ferment or
destroyer : wheat carries a kind of Yeast cell, or yeasty
ferment, on its husk, just as fruit carries a ferment on its
skin; lienee it is possible to produce Yeast from wheat
or flour, adding sugar and certain mineral requirements
found in salt, or contained in hard water. But as the
natural ferment is not so strong or vigorous as the
cultivated stock Yeast, it is always advisable in preparing
a growing Yeast to prepare a good food, and then plant a
good Yeast, collecting the crop as it rises.
Yeast may be preserved for keeping in various
ways :
(1) Place the Yeast in a close canvas bag, and gently
squeeze out as much moisture as possible, until the Yeast
assumes the consistency of soft cheese. In this state it
may be wrapped in waxed paper and stored away for
future use.
(2) Whisk the Yeast until it is like cream, and then
lay it with a painter’s brush on flat dishes and expose it
to the rays of the sun. Repeat the layers as they dry
until a thick coating is established. In this state it may
be collected and stored in a dry cool place, and used in
the ordinary way.
(3) Strips of clean new flannel may be covered with
Yeast as above (No. 2), and when dried the flannel should
be rolled up and covered with waxed paper. When re-
quired for use, a few inches should be cut off one of the
strips, and soaked in lukewarm water and the Yeast
washed off and the flour then stirred in.
Dried Yeast Paste with Alum. — Put 1 pint of flour in a
basin and stir in gradually sufficient boiling water to make a
stiff batter, when quite smooth let it stand till milk
warm. Mix with the batter 1 teaspoonful each of
powdered alum, salt, sugar, and 1 teacupful of Yeast. Let the
Yeast ferment, then mix enough meal with it to make a
stiff dough. Let it stand till it works, then put it in a
dark place to dry.
Dried Yeast Wafers. — Put lqt. of strong Yeast in a vessel,
cover it, and set it in a warm temperature. When it has
well worked and has a good head on it, stir in sufficient
maize-meal or wheat-meal to make a stiff dough, divide it
into small quantities, and flatten with the hands into
round cakes. Lay them on a sieve and dry them either
in the sun or near the fire, turning them often. When
quite dry (they will take two or three days), pack them
away in tins. Be very careful to keep them in a dry
place, as the slightest moisture injures them. When using
these cakes, mix in about 1 pint of warm water, and with
Yeast — continued.
it make a batter in the centre of a dish of flour, or set a
sponge, and proceed as usual in making Yeast bread. One
cake will raise 12lb. of flour.
Yeast Cake. — -(1) There are several ways of making
this cake, but the best receipt is as follows : — Take 3oz.
of hops, separate them with the hand, and stew and boil
them in water for half-an-hour ; strain off the liquor into
an earthenware vessel, and while still hot put in 3tlb. of
rye-flour. As soon as it commences to ferment stir” well,
and while it is working add 7lb. of Indian-meal. Mix it
well. Before the meal can be added the previous mixture
will have become a stiff' dough so that the meal will have
to be kneaded into it. Then roll it out to about iin. in
thickness and cut it into cakes with a biscuit-cutter.
Place the cakes on a board, and put them in the sun to
dry. They must be turned every day until they become
quite hard. Care should be taken that they are not
exposed to the wet or damp. When they are wanted for
baking, they should be broken up and put in hot water
and left for one night near the fire ; by that time they
will have dissolved. When dissolved, the liquor is used
for setting sponge just the same as the Yeast of beer.
Barley- or white pea-meal can be used instead of the
Indian-meal.
(2) Mix 1 table-spoonful of Yeast with h pint of luke-
warm milk, and sift in sufficient flour to make it a creamy
thickness. Put 2Alb. of flour in a basin with 4lb. of
caster sugar, mix it, then pour in the middle the thick-
ened Yeast preparation, and let it stand in front of the
fire for an hour to set the sponge. At the end of that
time, warm fib. of butter, and mix it in with the flour,
&c. ; add lib. of well-washed and dried currants, lib. of
chopped candied peel, and i table-spoonful of mixed spice.
Mix the above ingredients thoroughly. Line a cake-tin
with a sheet of buttered paper, pour in the cake mixture,
and bake it for an hour and a half in a good oven. When
cooked, take the cake out of the tin, and lean it against
something till cold, so that the steam may escape.
Yeast Dumplings. — (1) Mix 1 table-spoonful of bakers’
Yeast and 1 teaspoonful of salt with Hlb. of flour ; stir
in sufficient warm milk to make the dough, work it well,
then cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to
rise for two hours. Dust some flour on a table, turn the
dough out on to it when well risen, knead it well, then divide
into small portions, which shape into balls with floured
hands. Plunge the dumplings into a saucepan of boiling
water, and boil them rapidly for thirty minutes. When
cooked, take the dumplings out with a slice, put them
on a hot dish, and serve without delay with a sauceboat-
ful of sweet sauce, unless they are served with boiled
meat.
(2) Procure some bakers’ dough and put it to rise in
front of the fire for ten minutes, keeping it covered with
a cloth. Have a saucepan of boiling water on the fire,
divide the dough into small equal portions, and roll them
into balls with floured hands. Drop the dumplings into
the boiling water, and boil them for twenty minutes.
When cooked, take the dumplings out with a slice, put
them on a hot dish, pull them slightly apart with two
forks to let the steam out, and serve immediately with a
sauceboatful of sweet sauce or meat gravy, or else serve
them with plain butter and sugar.
(3) Warm lib. of butter and beat it together with three
eggs; mix 4 teacupful of Yeast with lib. of flour, then
mix in the beaten eggs and butter and 1 breakfast-cupful
of warm milk. Add 1 table -spoonful of sugar, 1 salt-
spoonful of salt, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg.
Beat the mixture well with a wooden spoon, cover with a
cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When well
risen beat the mixture again, turn it on to a board over
which flour has been sifted, divide it into equal quantities,
and roll them into balls. Put the balls in a warm place
till about to rise, then put them into a saucepan of boil-
ing water, cover with the lid, and boil them for twenty
minutes. Take the balls out quickly, put them on a
dish, and serve immediately.
(4) Put 2 table- spoonfuls of thick Yeast in h pint of
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, .Sauces, dec., referred to, see lender their special heads.
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OP PRACTICAL COOKERY.
803
Teast — continued.
■warm milk, stir it well, mix in two well-beaten eggs, Jib.
of sifted flour, and a small quantity of salt. Work the
mixture until smooth, cover it, and put it in a warm
place until well risen. Warm 4oz. of butter, work it into
the sponge, and add another Jib. of flour and J teacupful
of sugar. Beat the dough thoroughly, and set it to rise
again in a warm place. Divide the mixture into small
equal-sized portions, roll them into balls on a floured table,
and leave them to rise. Put a lump of butter in a frying-
pan, make it hot, put in the balls, and fry them over a
gentle fire until equally and delicately browned. When
cooked, drain the balls, put them on a hot dish, pour
stewed fruit round them, and serve.
Yeast Fritters. — Dissolve loz. of dry Yeast in J pint of
warm milk ; warm 4oz. of butter, beat it well, adding six
eggs, one at a time, then mix in 1 pint of milk, also the
milk in which the Yeast has been dissolved, lib. of flour,
and a small quantity of salt. Stir the batter well until
quite smooth, then cover it with a cloth and set it in a
warm temperature. When the batter has well risen,
melt a lump of butter in a frying-pan, and fry it in
small quantities, like thin pancakes. When the fritters
are cooked and lightly browned on both sides, place them
on a hot dish on which has been spread a fancy dish-
paper or a folded napkin, sift caster sugar and a small
quantity of powdered cinnamon over them, and serve
without delay.
Yeast Puddings.— Get the required quantity of bakers’
dough, let it rise in front of the fire, then divide it into
equal portions, and mould them into small balls. Have
ready a saucepan of boiling water and plunge the balls
into it. Keep the lid on the saucepan, and boil them
quickly for twenty minutes. When cooked, drain the
puddings, pile them on a hot dish, and serve at once with
a sauceboatful of wine sauce.
YELLOW SAUCE. — See Sauces.
YORK BISCUITS. — See Biscuits.
YORK SOUFFLES— See Souffles.
YORKSHIRE CAKES.— See Cakes.
YORKSHIRE PIE.— A pie under this name sold
at Italian warehouses is nothing more than a galantine
packed in terrines of different sizes. The genuine
article, which forms an important feature of the York-
shire Christmas festivities, is made as follows :
Bone a large fowl and fill the body with a stuffing
made of 1 teacupful of minced ham or tongue, 1 breakfast-
cupful of minced veal, 1 teacupful of finely-chopped suet,
2 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, pepper and salt freely
to taste, massed together with 2 beaten eggs ; or the
following stuffing may be used : The same quantities of
minced ham or tongue, veal, and suet, 1 table-spoonful of
powdered sweet herbs, a finely chopped partly boiled onion,
1 teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, J teaspoonful of mixed
ground spices, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, and J saltspoonful of
cayenne pepper, worked into a paste with two beaten eggs.
Sew up the fowl, truss it into a good shape, and then
stew it with the goose in a close stewpan, moistening with
some good stock. After stewing for half-an-hour, take the
fowl and goose out of the stewpan, fold the fowl up in
the goose, and lay the two in a pie-mould which has been
lined with a good pie-paste, having previously put a layer
of the same stuffing as used for the fowl at the bottom of
the pie. Pack round the goose slices of partly boiled
tongue and pieces of pigeon, partridge, hare, or any other
game at hand. Fill up the gaps with more stuffing, and
pour in as much as possible of the stock in which the
goose and fowl were stewed. Spread Jin. layer of butter
over the contents, cover it with paste, ornament as desired,
brush over the top of the pie with white of egg, and bake
in a slow oven for three hours.
YORKSHIRE FORK PIES— See Pork.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.— Of all the counties of
which England is composed, there is none so famous for
its culinary productions as Yorkshire. The pie, the
pudding, and the York ham are familiar as household
words. There are a few varieties of Yorkshire pudding,
notably that with currants served with roast beef, the
famous Goose Pudding, and others, of which the
following may be considered authentic examples :
Take an equal number of eggs and table- spoonfuls of
sifted flour, and when the eggs are well whisked mix
them gradually with the flour, adding salt and a grating
of nutmeg, and then pour in as much new milk as will
make a batter the consistency of cream. Stir the batter
with a fork vigorously for ten minutes or so, and then
pour it at once into a baking-tin, which must be very hot,
and contain a couple of table- spoonfuls of hot dripping. Set
the pudding to bake in an oven, or before the tire under
the roasting meat. When ready to serve, cut the pudding
into squares, and send it to table on a separate dish.
“ This.” says Kettner, “ is the true Yorkshire method,
the pudding being only Jin. thick, and not turned in the
baking. But in most other counties the plan is to make
the pudding an inch thick, and either to turn it on the
baking-tin or turn it out of one baking-tin on to another,
in order to brown it on both sides. If the meat is not
roasted but baked, the pudding may still be placed under
it, the meat resting upon a tripod in the middle of the
baking-tin.”
Well-washed grocers’ currants may be added to the
above for roasted beef, and the following receipts may be
considered varieties of the original :
(1) Stir into 1 pint of milk a sufficient quantity of flour
to make a thin smooth batter ; beat the yolks of four
eggs together with J table- spoonful of brandy, also beat
up the whites of two eggs ; stir the eggs lightly in
with the batter, season to taste with salt, pepper, and
a little grated nutmeg, and beat the whole lightly with
a fork for a few minutes. Thickly butter the interior of
a hot shallow baking-tin, pour the batter into it, and put
it in the oven. When set, the pudding may be put
slantingly in front of the tire, where, if there be a joint
roasting, it may receive the drippings from it, and be
lightly browned over the top. Serve the pudding cut up
into squares.
(2) Mix smoothly 5 table-spoonfuls of flour with 1 pint
of milk and one egg ; put a lump of fat in a shallow
baking-dish, place it over the fire until boiling hot, then
pour in the batter and bake it in the oven for half-an-
hour. Afterwards place it in front of the fire under the
meat for ten minutes or so before taking the meat up.
The tin should be huge enough to allow the pudding to
be between Jin. and Jin. thick. Serve hot with the meat.
(3) Mix 1 breakfast- cupful of flour in 1 pint of water or
milk, beating it well to prevent it being lumpy ; add 1
table-spoonful each of warm dripping or butter and golden
syrup, a little salt and baking-powder, the yolks of two
eggs well beaten, and the whites whipped to a froth.
Stone 3oz. or 4oz. of raisins or well-washed grocers’ currants,
strew them over the batter, pour it into a hot shallow
baking tin, and bake for twenty minutes. Take it out,
and it is ready to be served. Apples cut in quarters and
parboiled in syrup may be substituted for the raisins.
YULE CAKES— See Cakes.
Z AKONSKI .— Zakonsk i is in Russia the same as our
“ hors d’oeuvre,” and are generally taken before sitting
down to dinner. They are composed of herrings, ancho-
vies, caviar, or other kind of small sandwiches ; or they
may be small tartlets, thin slices of cooked goose, soused
fish, or various other dishes. They are placed on a side
table with liqueurs, and are eaten only a few minutes
before dinner.
ZAKUSKA.— The Russian term for a service of hors
d’oeuvre, concerning which Sir Henry Thompson, in
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <fcc., referred to, see under their special heads.
3 f 2
804
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Zakuska — continued.
“ Food and Feeding,” observes : “ It is well known that !
the custom exists to a very wide extent among Conti-
nental nations of commencing either mid-day dejeuner or
dinner by eating small portions of cold pickled fish, of raw
vegetables, of highly-flavoured sausage thinly sliced, &c.,
to serve, it is said, as a whet to appetite. This custom ;
reaches its highest development in the Zakuska of the
Russian, which, consisting of numerous delicacies of the
kind mentioned, is sometimes to be found occupying a
table in an ante-room to be passed between the drawing-
room and dining-room ; or, and more commonly, spread
on the sideboard of the latter. The Russian eats a little
from three or four dishes at least, and ‘ qualifies ’ with
a glass of strong grain spirit (vodka), or of some liqueur
(Vermouth more recently) before taking his place at the
table. Among these savoury preliminaries may often be
found caviare in its fresh state, grey, pearly, succulent
and delicate, of which most of the caviare found in this
country is but as the shadow to the substance.”
ZAMPINO.— This is the name given in Austria and
Italy to the fore-leg and foot of a young pig, commonly
called the hand. Sometimes the bone of the leg is
removed and the hollow space stuffed with a savoury
forcemeat. Boiled and served with French beans (see
Fig. 1087. Zampino.
Fig. 1087) it is a delicacy not to be despised. The follow-
ing receipt is given by a famous Italian chef :
Select a freshly-salted Zampino, soak it for two hours,
then drain it; remove the shank-bone and stuff the hollow
with savoury forcemeat, wrap it in a cloth, tying it
securely at both ends, put it in an oval stewpan, and pour
in plenty of cold water. When the liquid boils, move the
stewpan to the side of the fire and let it simmer for two
hours. At the end of that time move the stewpan right
away from the fire and leave the Zampino in the liquid
for twenty minutes. Drain the pork, remove the cloth,
put it on a hot dish, garnish it with French beans, and
serve very hot.
ZANDERS ( Fr . Sandres). — These fresh-water- fish of
the perch tribe are found in some of the North European
Continental rivers and lakes, and frequently attain the
size of a salmon. They are greatly esteemed for the
quality of their flesh. In different countries they are
known under different names. They are styled Sandelm
in Germany, Schilen in Austria, and Soudacs in Russia.
The flesh is very white, and said to be almost equal to the
whiting.
Boiled Zander. — ( I ) Scale the tail end of a large Zander, cut
it into thick slices, and put it into a fish-kettle ; cover
them with plenty of boiling water, and add a bunch of
parsley and a lump of salt. When boiling, move the fish-
kettle to the side of the fire and let the fish simmer for
ten minutes, keeping the lid on. Put a chopped onion
into a stewpan with a piece of butter, and fry till nicely
browned ; then add two red peppers and nearly lib. of
well-washed rice, and stir it over the fire for two minutes.
Moisten the rice to three times its height with fish broth,
boil it quickly for a few minutes, then move the stewpan
to the side of the fire and keep the contents simmering
till the rice is done. When cooked, the grains of the rice
should be whole, without being quite dry. Add a teacup-
Zanders — continued.
ful of tomato sauce and keep it by the side of the fire for
a few minutes. Put a piece of butter broken into small
pieces into the above mixture, and add from twenty to
thirty crayfish-tails and the same quantity of olives that
have been stuffed with anchovies and pickled in oil.
Pile the above ingredients on to a hot dish. Drain the
pieces of fish, arrange them on the rice, pour a little
melted butter sauce over them, and serve.
(2) Select a Zander about 51b. or 6lb. in weight, scale and
draw it, cut off the tips of the fins, and score it trans-
versely and slantwise on both sides. Lay it on a dish,
sprinkle plenty of salt over it, and leave it for an hour or
two. When ready, wash it in plenty of water, and truss
its head. Lay the fish with its back upwards in a fish-
kettle, pour in l pint of white wine and sufficient cold water
to cover it, and add a lump of salt and a bunch of parsley.
When the liquor boils, move the fish kettle to the edge of
the fire, and stew the fish gently until cooked. Pour 1
teacupful of vinegar into a small saucepan, boil it until
reduced to half its original quantity, then move it to the
side of the fire and stir in quickly the beaten yolks of four
eggs, loz. of butter, and 1 table-spoonful of thinly-shred
horseradish. Continue stirring the sauce at the edge of
the fire until thickened, but without letting it boil again,
and season with salt and a small quantity of grated nutmeg.
Strain the sauce through a fine hair sieve, return it to the
saucepan with 2oz. of plain and an equal quantity of cray-
Fig. 1088. Boiled Zander.
fish butter broken into small pieces. Beat it lightly at
the edge of the fire until all the butter has dissolved and
the sauce is frothy. Drain the fish, being careful not to
break it, remove the string, place it on a hot dish, garnish
it freely with parsley (see Fig. 1088), and serve with the
sauce in a sauceboat.
Boudins of Zander en Croustade. — Take Hlb. of the
flesh of a Zander, and mince it finely ; mix with it lib. of
butter and lib. of panada, work these ingredients well
together, season the mixture with salt, pepper, and spices
to taste, and bind with the beaten yolks of four eggs. Roll
the forcemeat like a sausage in a sheet of buttered paper,
and poach it in boiling water. When firm, drain the roll
of forcemeat and leave it until cold. Cut the foicemeat
roll crosswise into slices of an equal thickness, brush them
over with the beaten egg, and roll half of them in grated
breadcrumb, and the other half in finely-chopped truffles,
giving them only a thin coating. Put two large lumps
of butter into two saute -pans, and melt them ; fry the bread-
crumbed boudins in one pan, and the truffled ones in
another. Fry them a pale golden brown, then take them
out of the fat and drain them for a few minutes on a
sheet of kitchen-paper. Prepare a rice or bread croustade,
which fix in the centre of a dish ; arrange the boudins in
it, and serve.
Stewed Zanders.— (1) Scale two moderate- sized Zanders,
remove their gills, cut them into pieces, then draw and
wash them, and dry them well. Put a lump of butter
into a saucepan with some thickly sliced mushrooms, lay
in the pieces of fish, sprinkle over them a little salt, then
pour in 1 wineglassful of white wine, the juice of a lemon,
and the liquor of two dozen blanched oysters. Add a
small lump of kneaded butter, a teaspoonful of curry
powder, and a bunch of parsley. Boil the fish quickly for
twelve minutes, then take out the pieces carefully so as
not to break them, and lay them on a hot dish. Remove
the bunch of parsley, then stir into the liquor a liaison of
three yolks of eggs ; stir it by the fire till thick, then put
in the blanched oysters. Pour the sauce over the fish, and
serve it.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dee., referred to, see under their special heads.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OE PRACTICAL COOKERY.
805
Zanders — con tinned.
(2) Dantzig Style. — Clean and scale a large Zander,
trim off the tips of the fins, and cut the fish into moderate-
sized pieces ; put them in a fiat stewpan with the head
and a bunch of parsley. Blanch two dozen oysters in
white wine, strain the liquor through a fine hair sieve,
let it settle, and pour it over the fish ; pour in sufficient
white wine to cover the fish, add some trimmings of
mushrooms and loz. of butter that has been kneaded with
1 table- spoonful of flour, breaking it up into small pieces.
Put the lid on the stewpan, and boil the liquor quickly
for ten minutes. Trim the oysters and dry them thoroughly
on a cloth. When cooked, take the pieces of Zander
carefully out of the stewpan, lay them on a dish, and
keep them hot whilst the sauce is being prepared. Boil
the cooking liquor until reduced to a third of its original
quantity, then pass it through a fine hair sieve into a
clean stewpan. Boil it up again, move it to the edge of
the fire, and mix in quickly the yolks of two eggs that
have been beaten with 2 table-spoonfuls of cream. Stir
the sauce until thickened, but do not let it boil again,
then put in the oysters, pour it round the fish, and serve
without delay.
Zander with Aspic Jelly. — Clean the fish, removing its
inside, and stuff it witli an ordinary forcemeat, making it
look plump ; sew up the opening and truss the head
firmly. Wrap the fish in a cloth, put it in a fish kettle
with sufficient court bouillon to cover it, keep it over
the fire until the liquor reaches boiling-point, then move
it to the side where it may simmer gently until the fish
is done. Leave it in the cooking-liquor until cold, then
drain it very carefully; remove the cloth, and coat it with
jelly. Slide the fish carefully on to a pain vert that has
been placed on a silver fish-dish, garnish it first with a
string of chopped aspic jelly, and then with halves of
hard-boiled eggs and small croft tons of jelly. Serve it
with a sauceboatful of mayonnaise sauce.
ZEPHYRS.— These might almost be described under
the heading of Souffles, but as in certain parts of the
country they are accorded special value, the following two
receipts are given for their preparation :
(1) Put loz. of gelatine in a small lined saucepan with
A pint of milk, and place it over the fire until dissolved ;
then move it off and put in 3 heaped table-spoonfuls of
grated Parmesan cheese. Whisk 1 breakfast-cupful of
thick cream to a stiff froth, then mix it in with the
other ingredients. Fill some small moulds or cups with
the mixture, and stand them over ice or in a very cool
place until it has set. When ready to serve, turn the
Zephyrs out of the moulds on to a dish, and garnish
them with small croft tons of aspic jelly.
(2) Put Alb. of butter in a stewpan with 1 pint of
water, then stir in gradually Alb. of flour, and continue
stirring the mixture over the fire until it parts from the
sides of the stewpan. Remove it from the tire, and leave
it until nearly cold, stirring occasionally. Break eight
eggs in a basin, grate in the peel of half a lemon, and
beat them well ; then stir them into the paste. Dust the
interior of a shallow baking dish with flour, then with a
spoon constantly dipped in water take the mixture up in
small quantities anti drop them on to the floured tin,
leaving a short space between each to allow of the balls
rising twice their original size. Put them into a brisk
oven, and bake until they are lightly browned. They will
require a very short time to bake. When cooked, arrange
them on a hot dish on which has been laid a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish- paper, sift caster sugar over
them, and a small quantity of powdered cinnamon if liked,
and serve.
ZEST {Fr. Zeste). — The yellow surface of oranges
and lemons, containing the essential or flavouring oil of
the peel. The term is commonly used in this sense as
orange- or lemon-zest ; but it has really a more extensive
signification, and might correctly be applied to all sorts
of spices and flavourings.
ZRAZY.— This is a Polish dish, and is prepared as
follows :
Cut off some slices about lin. in thickness from the
fillet of a sirloin of beef, flatten them with the cutlet-bat
till they are half their previous thickness, and trim them
as nearly round as possible. Put a large lump of
butter into a saucepan, make it hot, put in the pieces of
meat, season to taste with salt and pepper, add a little
ground or pounded cloves and a few chopped onions or
shallots browned in butter to a light colour, and add also
a small clove of garlic, likewise bruised or pounded.
Cover the pan, and set them on the stove where they
will steam in their own liquor until quite tender, turning
them over when one side is cooked so as to have them
done equally on both sides. Should the gravy dry up or
evaporate, add a little rich stock or soup. Take out the
rounds of meat when tender, place them on a dish, skim
off the fat from the liquor, add a small quantity of flour
to thicken slightly, colour with burnt sugar, cook for a
minute or so, pour it over the meat, and serve. Potatoes
cut into slices and fried in butter should be served for
garnish. Should the garlic be objected to, it may be
omitted.
ZWEIBACHEN.— This is the name of some famous
German cakes, the term signifying twice cooked (Zwei — •
twice, and bachen — cooked).
(1) Beat six eggs together with 3oz. of caster sugar;
mix J pint of fresh yeast in A pint of slightly-warmed
milk, then add Jib. of warmed butter. Sift in gradually
with the above ingredients sufficient flour to make a stiff
dough, stirring all the time, and mixing it very smoothly.
Put a cloth over the pan and set it in a warm tempera-
ture till the dough has risen to double its original height.
Dust a little flour over the dough and knead it well with
the hands ; it should not be too stiff. Divide this into
several small portions, and shape them into long rather
narrow cakes about lin. in thickness. Put the Zweibachen
on a fluttered baking-tin, brash them over with a paste-
brash dipped in milk, and bake them. When cooked,
leave the cakes till the following day, then split them
open, lay them out flat, the crusted part underneath, and
put them in a moderate oven again till yellow and crisp.
These cakes may be eaten with butter while hot, if liked,
or left till cold, and eaten as a dry biscuit.
(2) Mix together in a basin lib. of finely-sifted flour
and Jib. of sugar. Dissolve 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast in
A pint of warm milk, then make a hollow in the centre of
the flour and stir it in. Cut 4oz. of butter into thin
slices, lay them on the top of the mixture, cover with a
cloth, and leave it until risen. Afterwards knead the
dough thoroughly with the hands and set it to rise. When
it begins to crack on the top, mould the dough into strips
lin. thick and 4m. or 5in. long. Butter a baking-tin, and
lay the strips on it, leaving about 2in. clear space between
each. Leave them until they have risen again, then
brash them over with a paste-brash dipped in milk, and
bake in a moderate oven. When cooked, put the strips
in the larder until the following day. Afterwards cut
them open, using a sharp knife for the purpose, and put
them in a cool oven. When crisp and lightly browned,
take them out.
For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, dec., referred to, see under their special heads.
Menus
OF
DINNERS, SUPPERS, AND LUNCHEONS,
GIVEN ON
VARIOUS IMPORTANT OR HISTORICAL OCCASIONS.
Prepared by the leading Cooks of Various Nationalities , practising in this and
other Countries.
Introductory Remarks. — To compose Menus or “ bills of fare ” has come to be regarded as the highest
attainment of culinary art. Cooking is comparatively easy, requiring only care and skill in carrying out the scheme
that has been previously elaborated for the guidance of the cook. The Menu is the architect’s plan, the cook is the
builder. Some cooks work from plans which they have themselves designed, but, in private families, or public
institutions, where the services of a master in cookery are not available, it would be unsatisfactory to leave the
arrangement of the Menu in the hands of the cook. There are several reasons why a good plain cook should not be
entrusted with organising a Menu. The temptation to make it an occasion for, on the one hand, showing off skill in
particular dishes, and on the other, of shirking those dishes that give extra trouble in their preparation, militate seriously
against the gastronomic qualities of the dinner, so that it is advisable in every case for the host or hostess to draw out the
menu, with the cook’s co-operation.
As to the language in which a Menu should be written, considerable argument has prevailed, many preferring to
use the French language throughout. The observation of a famous gastronomist, that it is not necessary for one to be a
French scholar to enjoy a good dinner, certainly scores in favour of English; but then, on the contrary, there are so many
dishes in familiar use in this country that have no English equivalents, that it would be impossible to work out an
artistic Menu without introducing French terms here and there. A mixture of the two languages has led to much
dissatisfaction, and some very amusing combinations have occasionally appeared on Menus through the presumption of
ignorant cooks, such as a “jambonof ham,” and others perhaps worse. The inclination, therefore, is in favour of adopting
French terminology throughout. But this, again, would be deceptive to the diner, for in many — far too many —
instances the modes of preparing certain dishes with even standard names differ. Of pronunciation and spelling, little
need be said, mistakes occurring on all sides, from the French cook’s “biftek de mouton ” to the British cook’s “savvy
cake ” for savoy. Innumerable instances of these errors might be given if any good purpose would be served by doing
so. Throughout this Encyclopaedia the great difficulty of nomenclature has been got over by adopting those which
appeared to be the more plausible, whilst those of a doubtful meaning have been carefully ignored. Hence it will be
found in some few instances that terms used in the following Menus, even though prescribed by chefs of the highest
standing, may not appear amongst our receipts under that heading, the apparent omission being in reality due to the
pi’actice of the individual. The popular absurdity of serving an old dish under the name of some personage, such as
“ Consomme a la Duchesse de Montgomery” has only been countenanced when the receipt for its preparation, differing
from others, has no other title to suit it.
Care has been taken in selecting these Menus to insert those which are capable of suggesting others. Variations
may be found desirable in many instances, and these can be readily supplied by reference to the list given in the index.
The art of designing a Menu requires a knowledge of foods in season, or attainable. The capabilities of the
cook should be studied, as well as the tastes of the guests. It would be absurd to put delicate entrees before a person
unaccustomed to a high-school of cookery, and it would be outrageous to serve a gourmet with boiled beef and vegetables,
or roast leg of mutton and turnips.
According to the English custom ( see Table Service) the first service should be of a preliminary character, such
as soup or fish, or both. This should be followed by a substantial dish of meat, a piece de resistance to satisfy appetite.
Then the cook may venture to serve up any delicate viands, such as entrees. Following this comes in correct order a
•roast bird of some sort, attended or followed by a salad. Entremets, such as delicate vegetables, follow the roast, and
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
807
dishes of highest flavour, such as cured hams, smoked tongues, and any other of that kind. Sweets come on the table at
this point. The repast concludes with savoury tit-bits, such as cheese and its preparations, caviare, dried fish, devilled
biscuits, mushrooms, and other similar foods.
With regard to the wines suitable for various courses, these differ according to circumstances and tastes ; but
full-flavoured, fruity wines should be left until the last, especially if there be a dessert to follow the dinner, as there
generally is. The French cook likes to see Bordeaux and Burgundy with the earlier courses, Champagne later on.
Chablis always with oysters, when these are served as Hors d’GEuvre.
Soups should always be light, and very delicately flavoured, whether a consomme, cream, or puree. Fish to follow
is better boiled with a simple sauce. Meat may be cooked in many ways, and entrees require suitable sauces. A very
good rule is to begin with light flavours, gradually increasing till the highest is reached; but a more masterly
arrangement is that in which the preceding dish or dishes prepare the palate for the next, until that acme of taste is
reached when the palate can be interested no further. It may then be “ cleaned ” or prepared for dessert by a savoury
of cheese, or something of a salt character, such as olives.
With the foregoing remarks for guidance, the framing of Menus will be much simplified, and the following
examples better understood and varied with greater confidence according to requirements and culinary conditions.
Banquet given at the Hotel Metropole, Feb. 6, 1893, on
behalf of the National Society for the Prevention of
Cruelty to Children — the Duke of York presiding.
Chablis.
Dry Sherry.
Rudesheimer.
Deutz & Geldermann’s
“ Gold hack.
Max Sutaine & Co.,
extra quality, extra
dry, 18o4.
Liqueurs.
Huitres au Citron.
Consommh Duchesse.
Veloute de Tomate au Tapioca.
Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise.
Filets de Sole a l’Orley.
Mauviettes a la Turque.
Bis de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges.
Granit Metropole.
Selle de Mouton de Galles.
Chapon Braise, Regence.
Haricots Verts Sautes au Beurre.
Pommes de Terre noisettes.
Becassine roti sur Canape.
Salade.
Chateau Palmer
Margaux, Grand
Vin.
Coekburn’s old bottled
Port.
Turban d’Ananas a la Creole.
Maltaise a la Chantilly.
Canape a la Provenpale.
Corbeille de Glace Napolitaine.
Petits Fours assortis.
Johannis Natural
Mineral Waters.
Dessert.
Cafe Noir.
Special Dinner served at Windsor Castle on the Visit of the
King of Roumania to the Queen, June 30, 1892.
Potages.
Printanier. A la Reine.
Poissons.
Truites, Sauce Hollandaise et Persil.
Filets de Soles frits.
Entrees.
Rissoles a la d’ Artois. Escalopes de Foies Gras a la Gelee.
Releves.
Haunch of Venison. Roast Beef.
Rot.
Cailles. Poulets.
Entremets.
Pois a la Franpaise. Beignet de Semouille, Sauce Abricot.
Pains de Fraises a la Chantilly.
Side Table.
Cold Beef. Fowl. Tongue.
Dinner served when the Gaekwar of Baroda visited Windsor
Castle, July 4, 1892.
Potages.
A la Julienne. A la Creme de Riz.
Poissons.
Whitebait. Truites, Sauce Hollandaise et Persil.
Entrees.
Croquettes de Volaille. Cailles Bohemiennes, froides.
Releve.
Roast Beef.
Rot.
Canetons.
Entremets.
Pois a la Franpaise. Babas au Kirsch.
Pudding froide a la Careme.
Side Table.
Hot and Cold Fowl. Tongue. Cold Beef
Inaugural Dinner given by Signor Josef Fiorillo (member
of the staff of this Encyclopaedia), at his School of
Cookery, Berners Street, Oxford Street, London, 1893.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Dome d’Olives a la Capucine.
Bocconi de Caviare d'Astrachan.
Chaud.
Marguerites de Volaille a la Hilda.
Turbans de Queues de Homards princiers.
Cocottes de Cailles a la Colombe.
Froid.
Celestines de Soles a la Victoria, Ballotines a la Parisienne.
Pates de Gibier a la Perigord.
Chaudfroid d’Ortolans en Cerise.
Mousseline de Foie Gras a la Lucullus.
Petits Pains farcis a la Varsovienne.
Poulets de la Bresse a la Gelee.
Langue a l’Ecarlate. Salade Gourme'e.
Entremets.
Mazarine a la Caroline.
Timbales de Peches a la Montreuil.
Gelee au Vin de Champagne.
Macedoine de Fruits Renaissance. Charlotte Gauloise.
Petits Gateaux varies.
Dessert.
808
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Banquet held in the Conservatory of the Winter Gardens,
Southport, to celebrate the opening of the Centenary
Exhibition, 1892.
Iced Milk. POTAGES.
Puncl1- Clear Turtle. Soup a la Reine.
Poissons.
sllerry Lobster a la Prince of Wales.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.
Grosses Pieces.
Forequarter of Lamb and Mint Sauce.
Spring Chickens. Turkey Poults.
Ducklings.
Roast Beef. Pressed Beef.
Galantine of Chicken. York Hams.
Ox-tongue.
PMhR™^erSIl884 Quails in Aspic. Prawns in Aspic.
Pigeons in Aspic.
Parisienne Salad. French Salad.
Entremets.
G. H. Mumm, 1884. Gateau a la Pilkington.
Gateau a la Bellevue.
Pears a la Condd. Apples a la Conde.
Noyau Jellies. Strawberry Cream.
Charlotte Russe. Blanc mange.
Tartlets. Maids of Honour.
Cheese Cakes.
Pastry a la Marine Lake.
Liqueurs. GLACES.
Coffee, &c. Strawberry Water. Vanilla Cream.
Dessert.
Pines. English Grapes.
Australian Apples.
Strawberries. Cherries. Apricots.
Peaches. Nectarines. Bananas.
Election Dinner of the Aberdeen Harbour Commissioners,
held in the Douglas Hotel, Aberdeen, Feb., 1893.
Oysters.
Natives.
Soup.
Hare. Clear.
Fish.
Turbot, Lobster Sauce.
Fillets of 'Soles, Sauce Tartare.
Entrees.
Sweetbreads with Truffles.
Stewed Kidney and Mushrooms.
Chicken Patties. Ciomeskies of Veal.
Removes.
Sirloin of Beef. Saddle of Mutton.
Roast Turkeys. Boiled Turkeys.
Ham and Tongue. Haunch of Venison,
Game.
Black Game. Pheasants.
Sweets.
Plum Pudding. Wine Jelly.
Brandy Cream. Ginger Cream.
Charlotte Russe. French Pastiy.
Ices.
Strawberry. Apricot. Vanilla. Lemon.
Dessert.
Melons. Pines. Grapes. Pears.
Oranges. Apples.
Breakfast given by M. Bernascon, host of the Hotel de
l’Europe, Aix-les-Bains, to the whole of the American
Colony in the place, July 4 (American Independence
Day), 1892.
Melon Cantaloup.
Langoustes a TAmericaine.
Pintades de Grasse a la Harrison.
Chateaubriand a la Christophe Colomb.
Haricots Verts a la Lafayette.
Patd de Foie Gras a la Washington.
Mousse a l’lndependence.
Gateau Cleveland.
Piece Historique.
Dessert.
Champagne, &c.
Note. — The names of the dishes are patent assumptions.
The wines were not branded “ American.”
Dinner Lesson at Marshall’s School of Cookery,
July 29, 1892.
Hors d’(Euvre.
Homard a la Boulevard.
Potage.
Creme a la St. Clair,
Poissons.
Petites Cremes de Meilueho h la Royale.
Rougets a la Parisienne.
Entrees.
Zephyrs de Volaille a la Bohemienne.
Creme de Homard a la Marie.
Releve.
Filets de Bceuf a la Trouville.
Pommes de Terre Olives frites.
Petits Pois a I Alexandra.
Sorbet.
Melon en Timbale.
Rot.
Poularde rotie a la Nevenaise.
Entremets.
Petites Cremes de Legumes a l’Amdricaine.
Ballettes en Petites Caisses. Ponding Glacd aux Fruits.
Champignons Marines.
Dinner given by Her Majesty at Windsor Castle,
May 6, 1892.
Potages.
A la Puree d’Epinards. Cock-a-Leekie.
Poissons.
Rougets a l’ltalienne. Filets de Soles frits.
Entree.
Croquettes a la Trieste.
Releve.
Roast Beef.
Rot.
Cailles.
Entremets.
Asperges a la Sauce. Gateaux de Riz a 1 Ananas
Charlotte Russe a la Vanilla.
Cheese Straws.
Side Table.
Hot and Cold Fowl. Tongue. Cold Beef.
809
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Menu of Grand Banquet in honour of the One Hundred and
Fourth Anniversary Festival of the Royal Masonic
Benevolent Institution for Girls, held at the Freemason’s
Tavern, May 18, 1892. The Menu was printed on a
blue-bordered card, representing a Grand Master’s Apron.
Tortue Claire. Creme de Yolaille.
Saumon, Sauce Mousseline.
Concombres. Pornmes Nouvelles.
Blanchaille.
Bouchees a la Reine.
Ris de Veau a la Printaniere.
Aspic de Homard en Believe.
Quartier d’Agneau, Sauce Men the.
Filet de Boeuf braisd.
Haricots Verts. Pornmes Rissolees.
Caneton d’Aylesbury.
Petits Pois. Salade.
CEufs de Pluviers.
Savarin a la Montmorency.
Gelee au Kirsch.
Pouding Glace a l'Anglaise.
Dessert. Cafe.
Dinner served at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge,
to a distinguished Collegiate Party of thirty- one,
August, 1892.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Native Oysters. Brown Bread and Butter.
POTAGES.
Clear Turtle. Brunoise.
Poissons.
Boiled Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise. Fried Smelts.
Entrees.
Turtle Fins a la Financiere.
Ris de Veau aux Epinards.
Releves.
Hindquarter of Welsh Mutton.
Hindquarter of Doe Venison.
Rots.
Grouse and Pheasants.
Entremets.
Albemarle Puddings. Macedoine Jellies.
Apple Tarts and Cream.
Bloaters on Toast.
Celery. Salad, &c.
Punch Frappee.
Manzanilla.
Huchheimer, vintage
1878
Irroy, Carte d'Or, sec,
vintage 1884.
Dummy, dry, vintage
1884.
Royal Port.
Chateau Ca'.on Segur,
vintage 1875.
Gerolstein.
Her Majesty the Queen’s Dinner for Sunday, May 8, 1892.
Potages.
Puree d’Asperges. Riz Claire.
Poissons.
Tranches de Saumon, Sauce Tartare.
Paupiettes de Filets de Soles Parisienne.
Entree.
Mousse de Volaille, Concombres.
Releves.
Roast Beef. Plum Pudding.
Rot.
L’Oison.
Entremets.
Artichauts en Quartier. Souffle a la Galfy.
Petits Biscuits Glaces aux Praises.
Side Table.
Hot and Cold Fowl. Tongue. Cold Beef.
Farewell Dinner given to Mr. Frank Marshall White
(American journalist) at the Cafe Royal, Regent Street,
Nov. 8, 1892.
Geisenheimer,
Moot et Chandon, 1884
(cuvtie 804).
Chdteau St. Pierre.
St. Julien, 1877.
Fine Champagne.
Liqueurs
Huitres.
Potage de Princesse.
Bisque de Homard.
Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise.
Pornmes de Terre Chateaubriand.
Brochettes d’Eperlans.
Croquettes de Gibier, Sauce Perigourdine.
Poulets Sautes a la Portugaise.
Selle de Mouton, Gelee de Groseilles.
Pornmes de Terre Rigolees. Celeri braisd.
Faisans. Grouse.
Salade.
Asperges, Sauce Beurre fondu.
Peches Glacdes.
Canapes de Laitances.
Fromage. Dessert.
Royal Academy
Chablis.
Milk Punch
Liebfraumilch, 1874,
Pfungst Carte d’Or
1884-
Chateau Talbot, 1879-
Liqueurs.
Banquet given at Limmer’s Hotel,
May 1892
Huitres.
Tortue Claire.
Creme d'Oie a la Royale.
Turbot bouilli, Sauce Ecrevisses.
Filets de Saumon a llmperiale, froid.
Blanchailles a la Diable.
Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Milanaise.
Chaudfroid de Creme de Volaille a la
Montelimard.
Filet de Boeuf pique a la Richelieu.
Pornmes de Terre Chateau.
Haricots Verts.
Jambon braise au Madere.
Epinards aux Croutons.
CEufs de Pluviers en Aspic.
Canetons aux Petits Pois, Sauce Cerises.
Asperges en Branches, Beurre Fondu.
Chartreuse de Fruits.
Parfait au Cafd Glace.
Canapes d’Anchois.
Dessert.
Her Majesty’s Christmas Dinner at Osborne House, Isle of
Wight, 1892.
Potages.
Tete de Veau en Tortue a la Chiffonade.
Poissons.
Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise. Filets de Soles frits.
Entrees.
Rissoles de Faisan.
Releves.
Dinde a la Chipolata.
Roast Beef. Chine of Pork.
Plum Pudding. Canapes a la Princesse.
Entremets.
Asperges a la Sauce. Petits Souffles a la St. Anne.
Mince Pies.
Side Table.
Baron of Beef. Boar’s Head. Game Pie.
Woodcock Pie. Brawn.
810
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Christmas Dinner served at the Hotel des Anglais,
Nice, 1892.
Potage a la Metropole. Consomme a la Duchesse.
Saumon du Rhin, Sauces Vatel et Riche.
Ponimes de Terre naturelles.
Filet de Boeuf a la Renaissance.
Poulardes a la Stanley.
Cerises d’Alouettes a la belle Fleuriste.
Cotelettes de Ramiers a la Franpaise.
Granits au Champagne.
Asperges en Branches, Sauce Mousseline.
Dindes de Noel truffees.
Salade de Saison.
Coq de Basse-Cour en Surprise sur Socle.
Fontaine des Innocents.
Mince Pies. Plum Pudding.
Brouettes Glacees a la Napolitaine.
Gateau Gorenfiot. B Ion Nadard.
Macaronade sur Socle. Phare International.
Dessert et Fruits varies.
Banquet given at Delmonico’s, New York, to the Chamber
of Commerce of that City, 1892.
Huitres.
Ilaut Sauternes.
Sherry.
Pontet Canet.
Champagne.
Volnay.
Liqueurs.
Apollinaris.
POTAGES.
Consomme Plumeroy.
Tortue Verte, claire.
Hors dTEuvre.
Timbales a la Duchesse.
Poissons.
Aiguilettes de Bass, Italienne au Gratin.
Pomnies de Terre, Dauphine.
Releves.
Filet de Bceuf, Montebello.
Choux-fleurs au Parmesan.
Entrees.
Poularde a la Toulouse.
Petits Pois Parisienne.
Terrapine a la Baltimore.
Sorbet Colombus.
Rots.
Canvas-back Duck. Perdreaux.
Salade de Laitue.
Entremets Sucres.
Pommes au Pralines.
Gelee Ananas Californienne.
Meringue Bavaroise.
Pieces Montees. Glaces fantaisies.
Fruits. Petits Fours. Cafe.
French Cooks’ Society Annual Banquet, Nov., 1892, held
at the Criterion Restaurant.
Hors d'(Euvre.
Croute au Pot.
Raie au Beurre Noir.
Julienne de Filet de Carrelet frit.
Gigot de Mouton a la Bretonne.
Pommes Puree au Gratin.
Faisan a la Casserole. Salade de Saison.
Gnoquis a la Roinanie.
Marmite de Poires au Vin de St. Georges.
Gateaux Pithiviers. Bombe Glaces a la Criterion.
Fromage. Dessert. Cafd.
Chefs, A. Purizot and C. Boizot.
I Trinity College Tercentenary Banquet, given at the
Leinster Hall, Dublin, August G, 1892.
PREMIER SERVICE.
Turtle Punch.
Vino di Pasto,
Liebfrauenmilch.
Chablis.
Bordeaux, La Rose.
Bordeaux, Margaux.
Moet and Chandon,
1884.
Bollinger, 1884.
Jules Remy, 1884.
Bordeaux.
Champagne.
Sardines a l'Huile. Olives farcies.
Saucisson de Lyon.
POTAGES.
Tortue Clair.
De Creme Victoria.
Poissons.
Saumon et Concombres, Sauce Verte.
Turbot, Sauce Cardinal.
Pommes de Terre.
Entrees.
Chaudfroid de Cailles a la Macedoine.
RLs de Veau pique aux Truffes.
Releves.
Poulet a la Creme.
Jambon braise au Madere.
Sellede Pre Sale.
Epinards. Petits Pois.
Asperges.
Vin d’Oporto, 1863.
Madere.
Chartreuse.
Kiimmel.
Claret, Mouton, 1877.
Cognac, 1868.
Apricot Brandy.
Vin d’Oporto.
SECOND SERVICE.
Rots.
Quartier d’Agneau.
Salade a la Franpaise.
Entremets.
Gelee d’Ananas.
Compote d’Abricots a la Creme.
Canapes d’Anchois.
Dessert.
Glaces. Biscuits Napolitaines.
Melons. Raisins. Fraises.
Ananas. Framboises.
Dinner and Fete at Adcote Hall, Shrewsbury, Nov. 11, 1890.
Potage.
Consomme a la Royale.
Entree.
Cotelettes de Mouton, Sauce au Gratin.
Pieces Froids.
Chapons farcis, garniture de Gelee d’Aspic.
Galantines de Veau. Poulets rotis.
Faisans au nature! aux Cressons.
Jambons de York braises. Galantines de Dindon Truffees.
Pates de Gibier en Plumage. Poulets bouillis a la Bechamel.
Langues de Boeuf garnies a la Macedoine.
CEufs aux Anehois. Aspic de Foie Gras.
Mauviettes farcies en Aspic. Cailles en Aspic.
Salade a la Russe.
Entremets.
Gelees au Citron. Cremes aux Ananas.
Macedoines des Fruits.
Cremes aux Fraises. Gelees au Marasquin.
Gateaux a la Suisse.
Gelees au Madere. Cremes au Cafe.
Bagatelles.
Cremes a la Vanille. Gelees aux Cerises.
Petites Demoiselles d’Honneur.
Eventails Franpais.
Dessert.
Glaces.
(Served at Refreshment Table.)
Creme aux Framboises. Creme aux Ananas.
Sorbets au Citron.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
811
Dinner given by Earl Fitzwilliam, May 25, 1892, at
4, Gr’osvenor Square.
Creme d'Orge. Printanier.
Whitebait. Truite bouillie.
Bouchees au Salpicon. Timbales a la Duchesse.
Pigeons ii la Flamande. Quartier d’Agneau.
Cailles. Legumes.
Bonnes Bouches. Gelee d’Orange.
Timbales a la Suisse.
Thirty- Seventh Annual Game Dinner, given by Mr. John
B. Drake and his Partners to six hundred guests, at the
Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago, Feb., 1893.
Oysters.
Blue Points.
Soup.
Venison Broth. Hunter.
Fish.
Baked White Fish. Boiled Salmon Trout.
Boiled.
Banquet given at Alnwick Castle in honour of the coming
of age of Lord Warkworth, second heir to the Dukedom
of Northumberland, 1892.
Poisson.
Salmon with Salad and Cucumber
Rots.
Haunches of Venison, Currant Jelly and Port Wine Sauce.
Necks of Venison.
Sirloins of Beef, Horseradish.
Haunches of Mutton.
Froids.
Fowls. Ham.
Pressed Spice Beef with Jelly.
Galantines of Veal.
Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce.
Barons of Beef.
Game Pies. Pigeon Pies.
Boiled Fowls.
Tongues. Galantine of Beef.
Rounds of Beef.
Entremets,
Plum Puddings.
Vanilla Creams. Chocolate Creams.
Wine Jellies. Fruit Jellies.
Pastries Genoese Cakes.
Baba Cakes.
Leg of Mountain Sheep,
Roast.
Mountain Sheep. Loin of Venison.
Black- tail Deer. Loin of Elk. Black Bear.
Saddle of Antelope. Cinnamon Bear.
Wild Goose. Opossum.
Pin tail Duck. Mallard Duck.
Spoon-bill Duck. Partridge.
Red head Duck. Brant.
Fox-squirrel. Butter-ball Duck.
Green-winged Teal. Blue-
pigeon. Jack Snipe.
Wild Turkey.
Prairie Chicken.
Pheasant. Quail.
Raccoon.
Ruffled Grouse.
Wood Duck.
Sage Hen.
Jack Rabbit,
inged Teal.
Plover.
Broiled.
Grey Squirrel. Blue-winged Teal.
Venison Steak. Butter- ball Duck. Partridge.
r- Red winged Starling. Sand Snipe.
Quail. Blackbirds. Reedbirds. Pheasant.
Plover. Ricebirds. Marshbirds.
Entrees.
Breast of Partridge with Truffles.
Venison Cutlets, Mushroom Sauce.
Bear Steak, Jelly Sauce.
Ragout of Squirrel a la Financiere.
American Hare a la Chasseur.
Vegetables.
Green Peas. Boiled and Mashed Potatoes.
Sweet Corn. Stewed Tomatoes. Sweet Potatoes.
Ornamental Dishes.
Boned Wild Turkey in Jelly.
Aspic of Lobster a la Royale.
Pyramid of Wild Goose Livers.
Mallard Duck a la Bellevue.
Prairie Chicken en Plumage.
Partridge au Naturel.
Boned Wild Turkey. Prairie Chicken.
Quail. Ducks. Partridge. Snipe.
Prairie Chicken Salad. Celery.
Celery Mayonnaise.
French Kisses. Assorted Fancy Pyramids.
Assorted Cake. Confectionery. Angel Cake.
Macaroons. Lady Fingers. Vanilla Ice Cream.
Siberian Punch. Oranges. Grapes.
Nuts. Raisins.
Coffee. Crackers. Cheese.
Dinner given by Herbert Colstoun Gardner, Esq., M.P.,
March 10, 1892, at 48, Charles Street.
Consomme aux Prunes,
Saumon, Sauce Tartare. Eperlans frits.
Zephirs de Volaille, Sauce Hollandaise.
Chaudfroid de Mauviettes.
Selle de Mouton.
Jambon de Montonge, Sauce Bigone.
Cailles a la Souvaroff.
Pouding Victoria.
Souffle frappe a l’Ananas.
Pate de Foie Gras a la Napolitaine.
Wedding Breakfast given by Colonel North at Avery Hall,
Eltham, on the marriage of his daughter in 1892.
Potage.
Consomme a la Monaco.
Sandwiches.
Jambon. Langue. Pceuf braise.
Sardine. Anchois. Saumon fumee au Cresson.
Homard a la Chesterfield.
Entrees, Froids.
Medallion de Volaille a la Comte de Paris.
COtelettes de Homard a la Stanley.
Aspic de Foie Gras a la Strasbourgeoise.
Mauviettes farcie a la Diplomatique.
Petit Vol-au-Vent au Huitres. Crevettes en bouquet.
Gateau a la Mascotte. Meringues a la Chantilly.
Gateau a la Marie Antoinette.
Pompadours a la Creme. Patisserie assortie.
Genoise Glace a la Duchesse.
Marrons Glace. Chocolate Fondants.
Macedoine de Fruits.
Creme Bavaroise aux Fraises.
Gelee au Parfait Amour. Creme a la Heine Margot.
Dessert.
Glaces.
Creme aux Fraises a la Vanille. Cafe.
Citron ii l'Eau. Granite de Citron. Cafe Granite.
812
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Dinner given by the Glasgow Juridical Society on
Dec. 22, 1892, at the St. Enoch Station Hotel.
“ Ora et Labora.”
Preliminary Pleasures.
Cockie Leekie. Mock Turtle.
Grants cum Piscartis.
Boiled Turbot, Lobster Sauce.
Fried Fillets of Soles, Tartare Sauce.
Entrees Untaxed.
Oyster Pates. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
In Substantialibus.
Sirloin of Beef. Boiled Turkey.
Saddle of Mutton, Celery Sauce. York Ham.
Fik thereto.
Roast Pheasants.
Residue un Morceau.
Apricot Pudding. Gateau a la Parisienne.
Blanc mange. Wine Jelly,
Dessert of the Diet pro loco et tempore.
“ Ne plus ultra et nihil ad rem.”
Hungarian Ball-Supper held at Princess Hall, Oxford Street,
June 23, 1892.
Consomme.
Saumon Marine, Sauce Tartare. Homard au naturel.
Mayonnaise de Homard.
Saucisson de Brunswick. Aspic deFoie Gras.
Poulets rotis. Jambon de Yore.
Langues de Bceuf, d ('coupe e-s. Boeuf Pressd a l’Anglaise.
Salades a la Franpaise. CEufs farcis aux Ancliois.
Sandwiches de Foies Gras. Sandwiches a la Victoria.
Trifle.
Gelees au Cognac. Gelees des Fruits.
Meringues a la Chantilly. Genoises Glacees variees.
Glaces a la Napolitaine. Glaces de Citron a l’Eau.
Cafe a la Glace et Cremes.
Dessert.
Fraises et Creme.
Raisins. Ananas. Bananes.
Cerises. Biscuits.
Claret Cup. Champagne Cup.
Mayor and Corporation Banquet on Nov. 24, 1892, at
Bournemouth .
Chablis.
Amontillado.
Marcobvunner, 1868.
Magnums of Heidsieck,
1884.
Chateau Margaux, 1874.
Port, 1863.
Madeira, 1851.
Liqueurs.
Brandy, 1892.
Chartreuse.
Curagoa.
Huitres au naturel.
Tortue Claire. Palestine.
Turbot, Sauce Homard.
Eperlans frits.
Cromesky a la Russe.
Petites Bouchees de Volaille aux Truffes.
Civet de Lievre a l’Anglaise.
Sirloin of Beef. Haunch of Mutton.
Vegetables.
Faisans. Perdreaux.
Pommes de Terre f rites.
Plum Pudding. Mince Pies.
Jubilee Creams. Gelee au Marasquin.
Glace a la Nesselrode.
Stilton. Cheddar.
Dessert.
Coffee.
Banquet given by the Mayor and Mayoress of Kendal, in
the Town Hall, Feb., 1893.
Madeira.
Champagne.
Claret.
Sherry.
Port.
Native Oysters.
Clear Turtle Soup. Puree of Hare.
Turbot, Lobster Sauce.
Fillets of Sole, Cardinal Sauce.
Vol-au-Vent a la Financiere.
Sweetbreads with Mushrooms.
Sirloin of Beef. Saddle of Mutton.
Roast Turkey. Roast Goose.
Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce.
Roast Ducks. Westphalian Ham.
Haunch of Venison. French Beans.
Pheasants. Grouse. Capercailzie.
Lobster Salad Foie Gras en Aspic.
Plum Pudding. Albert PuddiDg.
Fruit Tarts.
Mince Pies. Macedoine Jellies.
Velvet Creams. Panache e Jellies.
Pineapple Creams. Bavarois Creams.
Chartreuse of Peaches.
Genoise Pastry.
Ice Pudding a la Chantilly.
Gorgonzola and Stilton.
Dessert.
Dinner given by Lord Alington, July 22, 1891, at
Alington House.
Potages.
Tortue Claire. Consomme d’Ete froid.
Poissons.
Truites, Sauce Hollandaise.
Escalopes de Soles, Venitiennes.
Entrees.
Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Petits Pois.
Petites Mousses de Volaille a la Portugaise.
Releves.
Filets de Bceuf Jardiniere, froid et cliaud.
Roti.
Poussins, Bread Sauce.
Entremets.
Haricots Panaches.
Pudding Mousseline a la Montreuil.
Tarte de Framboises et de Groseilles.
Biscottes a la Creme de Sardines.
Dinner given by the Austro-Hungarian Ambassador,
May 23, 1891.
Potage Bisque. Consomme Milanais.
Blancliaille. Fruites a la Varsovienne.
Petites Timbales Duchesse.
Cailles au Riz a la Piedmontaise.
Selle de Prd Sale.
Poulets de Grains rotis, Salade Russe.
Pain de Foie Gras Bellevue.
Asperges, Sauce Mousseline.
Savarin a la Creole.
Dame Blanche, Petits Napolitaines.
Fondantes au Chester.
Glace a l’Ananas et PumpemikeL
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
813
Banquet of the British Medical Association, at the George
Hotel, Nottingham, July 28, 1892.
Soups.
Sherry.
Purde of Tomato. Mock
Fish.
Hock.
Claret.
Boiled Salmon, Cucumber.
Fillets of Sole, Hollandaise Sauce.
Entrees.
Mutton Cutlets a la Reform.
Sweetbreads and Mushrooms.
Champagne.
Rissoles of Lobster.
Sorbet of Maraschino.
Joints.
Bollinger.
Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding.
Roast Lamb.
Pfungst, vintage 1884
Cauliflower. Green Peas.
“ Carte d'Or.”
Liqueur Brandy
Removes.
Spring Chicken. Ducklings.
York Ham.
Sweets.
Marmalade Pudding. Tarts.
Cura<;oa.
Jellies. Creams.
Ices, &c.
Port.
Dessert.
Strawberries. Melons. Hothouse Grapes.
Bananas. Apples. Figs. Plums.
Cherries. Oranges.
Dinner given by the Duke of Devonshire, Nov. 12, 1892,
at Chats worth.
Brunoise aux Quenelles.
Saumon, Sauce Hollandaise. Eperlans frits.
Crepenettes a la Strasbourgeoise.
Tournedos aux Traffes.
Selle de Mouton. Poulets Napclitaine.
Grouse. Faisans.
Choux-fleurs au Gratin.
Mille-feuille au Chocolat. Souffles aux Fraises Glaces.
Rissoles aux Anchois,
Jubilee Festival Banquet of the Royal Masonic Benevolent
Institution, Feb. 24, 1892, at Freemasons’ Hall.
Tortue Claire.
Darnes de Saumon au Beurre Montpelier.
Mayonnaise de Homard. Aspic de Crevettes en Bellevue.
Chaudfroid de Mauviettes a l’Aspic.
Pate de Foie Gras de Strasburg.
Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Russe.
Galantine de Yolaille aux Tratfes.
Pate de Pigeon a l’Anglaise. Hure de Sanglier aux Pistaches.
Mousse de Volaille a la Moderne.
Aloyau de Bceuf au Raifort.
Chapons de Surrey au Cresson.
Jambon de York a la Gelee. Patd de Gibier a la Bohemienne.
Bceuf Presse Sale. Langue a l’Ecarlate.
Salade de Saison.
Gateau Napolitaine.
Eclairs au Cafe. Tartelettes Grille es.
Gros Baba au Rhum. Choux a la Creme.
D’Artois aux Abricots. Mirliton de Rouen.
Fanchonettes de Poires.
Bavaroise Vanille. Gelee au Marasquin.
Gateau Conde. Genoise Glaec'e.
Bombe Glaces a la Printaniere.
Dessert.
Supper at a Ball given at the Rainbow Hotel, Kendal, in
connection with the Mayoral festivities, Feb., 1893.
Fillets of Soles in Aspic. Prawns in Aspic.
Potted Shrimps.
Roast Peacock. Boned Turkeys a la Truffle.
Roast Turkey. Boiled Chickens a la Bechamel.
Braised Chickens a la Macedoine.
Roast Sucking-pig. Boar’s Head. Game Pies.
Galantine of Chickens.
Roast Beef. Pressed Beef.
Galantine of Veal. York Ham. Tongues.
Pheasants. Partridges. Chickens in Aspic.
Mayonnaise of Chicken. Shrimp Sandwiches.
Lobster Salad. Natural Salad.
Duchess Loaves. Cherry Tartlets. Madelines.
French Pastry. Meringues. Iced Sponges.
Florentine of Apricot.
Pineapple Fritters. Savoy Cake a la Vanille.
Croquants of Oranges. Chocolate Cake a la Creme.
Raspberry Cake a la Creme.
Mince Pies. Tipsy Cake. Macedoine of Jelly.
Noyau Jelly. Benedictine Jelly. Golden Jelly.
Strawberry Charlotte. Creams, various. Trifles.
Fruits.
Ices.
Strawberry Cream. Chocolate Cream.
Beef Tea on departure.
Banquet given to the Tradesmen of Hereford on the
coming of age of the son of J. Rankin, Esq., M.P. for
Hereford, Sept. 1, 1892, at Bryngwyn, Herefordshire
Sirloin of Beef. Ox-tongues. Quarter of Lamb.
Chickens en Chaudfroid. Capons a la Bechamel.
Galantine of Veal. York Hams fluted.
Pigeon Pies a la Franpaise. Lamb Cutlets in Aspic.
Chaudfroid of Larks, Jardiniere.
Aspic de Foie Gras. Aspic of Lobster.
Medallions of Chicken.
Galantine of Capon and Truffles.
Mayonnaise of Lobster. Mayonnaise of Chicken.
Salad a la Russe. Salad a la Franf aise.
Tomato Salad. Venetian Salad.
Salmon in Montpellier Butter.
Savarin Cake and Apricots. Gateau a la Napolitaine.
Tipsy Cake. Mixed Fancy Pastry.
Maraschino Jelly. Macedoine of Fruits.
Charlotte Russe. Lemon Jelly.
Pineapple Chartreuse. Trifle.
C. Willin, Chef.
Dinner given by Lord Reay, July 25, 1892, at 6, Great
Stanhope Street.
PREMIER SERVICE.
Consomme Printanier.
Bonne Femme a la Parmentier.
Mousse de Homards. Filets de Soles au Gratin.
Tournedos a la Rossini. Jambonr.eaux a la Russe.
Carrti d’Agneau.
SECOND SERVICE.
Poulardes aux Cressons.
Tomates a la Corblet.
Bombe a la Creole. Petits Gateaux.
Sardines a la Nantaise.
814
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Supper given in honour of Sir James Sivewright, Commis-
sioner of Crown Lands in the Cape Colony, at the Grand
National Hotel, Johannesburg, 1892.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Salade de Crevettes. Caviare sur Canapes.
Olives farcies.
Soups.
Real Turtle. Puree a la Dubery.
Fish.
Killback, Sauce Hollandaise.
Fillets of Soles a la Joinville.
Releve.
Fillets of Beef a la Renaissance.
Entrees.
Noisettes d’Agneau a la Reforme.
Vol-auVent a la Financiere.
Punch a la Romaine.
Rotis.
Ducklings au Cresson. Dindes rotis au Truffes.
Faisans rotis and Bread Sauce. Salade de Saison.
Legumes.
Celeri a l’Espagnole. Petits Fois a l’Anglaise.
Pommes de Terre.
Entremets de Cuisine.
Asperges a la Milanaise.
Entremets Sucres.
Pudding a la Yesuvienne, Sauce Sabayou.
Charlotte a la Russe. Corbeille de Fruit au Nougat.
Piece Glace a la Napoli taine. Patisserie assortie.
Dessert.
Cafe N oir.
Supper given by the Austro-Hungarian Ambassador,
June 21, 1892.
Consomme chaud et froid.
Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Petits Pois.
Poulets rotis au Cresson Salade.
Filets de Soles Venitienne. Homards Bagration.
Cliaudfroid a la Victoria. I’etits Pains fourres.
Gelees au Sauteine. Gelees au Marasquin.
Macedoines de Fruits. Tattes de Creme aux Fraises.
Madeleines au Chocolat.
Dinner given by the Hon. Percy Scowen Wyndham, M.P.,
May 25, 1892, at 44, Belgrave Square.
POTAGES.
Consomme a la d’Orleans.
Creme de Laitue a la Princesse.
Poissons.
Filets de Truites froids a la Venitienne.
Blanchaille.
Entrees.
Noisettes de Ris d’Agneau a la Doria.
Cliaudfroid de Canetons a la Bigarade.
Releves.
Filet de Bceuf a la Claremont.
Poulets a la Printaniere.
R6ti.
Cailles au Cresson.
Entremets.
Petits Pois it la Franfais. Suddoise de Fruits a la Ninon.
Riches au Fromage.
Supper given by Lady Scott, May 20, 1891, at
7, Grosvenor Square.
Chaud.
Consomme de Volaille. COtelettes d’Agneau aux Pois.
Poulets decoupes. Cailles roties.
Truffes au Champagne.
Froid.
Medaillons de Truite Norvegienne.
Petits Aspics de Homard. Filets de Sole Pompadour.
Mousses de Saumon a la Gelee.
Petites Timbales de Foies Gras a 1'Aspic
Cliaudfroid de Cailles. Giufs de Pluvier naturel.
Canapes a la Demi-deuil. Mayonnaises de Volaille.
Salades de Homard. Balotines a la Strasbourgeoise.
Asperges a l’Huile.
Poulets decoupes avec Langue et Jambon.
Sandwiches variees.
Entremets.
Gelees de Fruits au Champagne. Gelees a l’Orange.
Mousses aux Fraises.
Macedoines de Fruits glaces.
Patisseries assorties.
Private Dinner given at Montague Square, London, to
entertain the Duke of Cambridge, Feb. 11, 1892.
Hors d’CEuvre.
Lave sur Croiites.
POTAGES.
Consomme a la Tolede.
Bisque d’Huitres.
Poissons.
Whitebait au naturel.
Saumon bouilli, Sauce Hollandaise.
Entrees.
Pigeons a la Due de Cambridge.
Souffles de Volaille a la Creme.
Releve.
Selle de Mouton.
Rot.
Faisans roti au Cresson.
Entremets.
Petits Souffles a la Vanille.
Salade aux Fruits.
Olives a la St. Augustine.
Glace.
Creme de Citron.
Ball-Supper at Holland House, July 23, 1891.
Chaud.
Consomme: de Volaille.
Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Petits Pois.
Cailles de Vigne roties au Cresson.
Poulardes rotis au Cresson.
Froid.
Filets de Saumon a la Norvegienne.
Cliaudfroid de Cailles a l’lmperiale.
Ballotines de Volailles a la Victoria.
Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Russe.
Poulardes Langues et Jambon a la Gelee.
Petits Pains a la Franpaise.
Sandwiches assortis.
Entremets.
Bavarois aux Fraises. Gelees aux Fruits.
Macedoines de Fruits au Champagne.
815
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Dinner Lesson given at Marshall’s School of Cookery,
Mortimer Street, London, April 29, 1892.
IIors d’CEuvre.
Petites Bouchees a la Mentone.
Potage.
Creme a la Luculle.
Poisson.
Filets de Sole a la Celia.
Entrees.
Ris de Yean a la d’Orly.
Mousse de Volaille a la Princesse.
Releve.
Gigot d’Agneau roti, Sauce Polonaise.
Pommes de Terre Nouvelles a la Creme.
Sorbet.
Fruits au Vin en tasses de glace.
Rot.
Cailles au Cresson.
Entremets.
Cardons a la Moelle
Petites Corheilles de Nougat a la Diirer.
Bombe a la Portugaise.
Petites Croustades a la Victoria.
Cutlers’ Banquet (269th anniversary), Sheffield, 1892.
Soups.
Clear Turtle. Thick Turtle.
Fish.
Turbot, Lobster Sauce. Filleted Soles. Stewed Eels.
Entrees.
Sweetbreads with Truffles.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
Stewed Kidneys and Mushrooms.
Removes.
Sirloin of Beef.
Roast Chicken.
Roast Turkey.
Ham. Tongue.
Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Chicken.
Boiled Turkey.
Haunch of Venison.
Game.
Pheasants. Grouse. Partridges.
Sweets.
Wine Jelly. Noyau Jelly.
Brandy Cream. Ginger Cream.
Charlotte Russe. French Pastry, &c.
Ices.
Strawberry. Apricot. Vanilla.
Dessert.
Pines. Melons. Pears. Grapes.
Dinner given by Lord Rosebery, March 9, 1893, at
38, Berkeley Square.
Consomme Xavier. Bisque d’Ecrevisses.
Whitebait. Whitebait a la Diable.
Truites bouillies au nature!
Filet de Bceuf Printaniere.
Souffles de Gelinottes a la Russe.
Cailles a la Therapia.
Dinde Sauvage d’Amerique. Salade de Celeris.
Asperges en Branches. Pains d’Oranges a la Cintra.
Timbales a la Duchesse.
Saucisson de Foie Gras.
Supper given by Lord Iveagh, June 27, 1891, at
5, Grosvenor Place.
Chaud.
Consomme de Volaille.
Froid.
Consomme Congele.
Escaloppes de Truites a la Russe.
Manchons a la Sesto.
Filets de Poulardes Beauliarnais.
Cotelettes de Cailles a la Moderne.
C-haudfroid d’Ortolans.
Croustadines de Foies Gras Lucullus.
Medaillons de Bceuf Chilienne.
Poulets et Langue a la Gelee.
Petits Pains Mayonnaise.
Sandwiches variees. Patisserie.
Glace Mexicain. Gateau des lies.
Ivougloff a l’Ananas. Gelees a la Valencienne.
Macedoines de Fruits Champagne.
Corbeilles de Fruits.
Dinner to the Directors and Guests of the Girard
Trust Co., April 3, 1892, at the Art Club, Philadelphia.
Chateau d’Yquem.
Amontillado.
Schloss Juliannisberg.
Chateau Lafite.
Perrier Jouet.
Royal Charter.
Romance Conti.
Madeira, 1832.
Cognac.
Little Neck Clams.
Consomme d’Orleans.
Brook Trout a la Chambord.
Cucumbers.
Vol-au-Vent of Sweetbreads with Fresh
Mushrooms.
Roast Ribs of Spring Lamb.
New Peas. New Potatoes a la Creme.
Tomatoes stuffed with Oyster Crabs.
Sorbet de Menthe.
Roast Doe Bird.
New Asparagus au Beurre.
Hearts of Lettuces.
Pate de Foie Gras.
Glace. Cakes.
Cheese. Cafe. Fruit.
Dinner given by the Hon. Corps of Gentlemen-at-Arms,
March 15, 1886, at St. James’s Palace.
PREMIER SERVICE.
Potages.
A la Puree d’Asperges. Aux Quenelles de Volaille.
Poissons.
Saumon, Sauce Tartare. Merlans farcies, Sauce Tomate.
Blanchaille.
Entrees.
Filets de Veau a la Princesse.
Salmi de Pluviers a la Parisienne.
Releves.
Selle de Mouton rotie. Capon braise a la Jardiniere.
Jambon, Sauce Madere.
Homard a l’lndienne.
SECOND SERVICE.
Rots.
Canards Sauvages, Sauce Bigarade.
Choux de Mer.
Entremets.
Gelee a la Mosaique. Trompillon a la Creme.
Releve.
Parfait aux Ananas.
816
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Dinner given by the Committee of the Columbian Exhibition,
Fine Art Department, Jan. 20, 1893.
Chablis.
Blue Points.
Amontillado.
Chicken a la Turk.
Fillets of Pompano a la Creole.
Cucumbers.
Pontet Canet.
Timbale a la Reine.
Saddle of Venison, Grape Jelly.
Sweet Potatoes a la Parisienne.
Mumm’s Extra Dry.
Broiled Tomatoes.
Chaudfroid de Cailles.
World’s Fair Punch.
Stewed Terrapin a lArt Club.
Red head Duck. Celeri Espagnole.
Lettuce Salad.
Cigars.
Roquefort and Brie Cheese.
Montrose Pudding.
Liqueurs.
Fruit. Coffee.
Royal Caledonian
Hunt Dinner, Nov. 10, 1892, at the
New Club, Edinburgh.
Huitres.
POTAGE.
Tortue Claire et Lice.
Poissons.
Turbot, Sauce Homard.
Filets de Sole a la Venitienne.
Entrees.
Fonds d’Artichauts a la Bechamel.
Mousse de Perdreaux a la Conti.
Haggis.
Releve.
Dinde a la Chipolata. Selle de Mouton.
Jambon au Vin de Champagne.
Ro rs.
Grouse. Canards Sauvages
Salade de Saison.
Entremets.
Charlotte de Pommes a la Franfais.
Asperges glacis.
Canapes d’Harengs.
Dessert.
Eau de Raison glace. Creme aux Fraise glace.
Marions.
Speaker’s Dinner, Feb. 22, 1893.
PREMIER SERVICE.
POTAGES.
Consomme a la d’Orsay. Tortue Claire.
Poissons.
Saumon, Sauce Genevoise. Filets de Soles, Regence.
Whitebait.
Entrees.
Supreme de Ris de Veau a l’Ecarlate.
Cotelettes de Mouton aux Petits Pols.
Releves.
Filets de Boeuf a l’Espagnole.
Poulets grilles a llndienne. Jambon aux Epinards.
SECOND SERVICE.
Punch au Champagne.
Rots.
Cailles au Cresson. Haricots Verts, sautes.
Terrines de Foies Gras de Strasburg.
Asperges en Branches.
Entremets.
Savarin a la Montmorency.
Timbales de Mandarines glacees.
Glaces.
Honchoes aux Crevettes.
Glacees aux Fraises et a la Vanille.
Dinner given by Citizens of Philadelphia to the
Hon. William F. Harrity, Dec. 17, 1892, at the
Art Club.
Chablis.
Oloroso.
Johannisberg Cabinet.
Chateau Margaux.
Moet and Chandon.
Mumm's Extra Dry.
Clos de Vougeot.
Madeira, 1832.
Cigars.
Liqueurs.
Blue Points.
Consomme Royale.
Rock au Gratin. Cucumbers.
Breast of Pheasant Supreme.
Saddle of Southdown Mutton.
Green Peas. Potatoes en Surprise.
Woodcock a TArt Club.
Celery Mayonnaise.
Stewed Terrapin a lTIarrity.
Canvas- back Duck. Fried Hominy.
Roquefort and Camembert Cheese.
Ices. Fruit. Cakes.
Coffee.
Twenty-seventh Annual Dinner of the Union League of
Philadelphia, Dec. 28, 1891.
Steinwein.
Olorosa.
Chateau Lafite.
Royal Charter.
Cigarettes.
Clos de Vougeot.
Liqueurs.
Cigars.
Lynn Haven Bays.
Clear Green Turtle Soup.
Fillets of Pompano au Vin Blanc.
Cucumbers.
Roast Saddle of Venison, Sauce Poivrade.
Brussels Sprouts. Bermuda Potatoes.
Sweet breads braisti with Fresh Mushrooms.
Punch a la Lalla Rookh.
Terrapin.
Roast English Pheasant.
Romaine Salad.
Montrose Pudding. Camembert.
Coffee.
Dinner given to the Masters of the Livery Companies,
March 1, 1893, at the Mansion House.
Soups.
Turtle. Clear Turtle.
Fish.
Spey Trout, Suedoise Sauce. Turbot, Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
Entrees.
Croustades de Bccassines a la Carlton.
Turban de Ris de Veau a l’lmperiale.
Removes.
Boiled Chickens, Pointes dAsperges. Braised Ham.
Saddle of Mutton.
Roast.
Goslings. Guinea Fowls.
Entremets.
Maraschino Jelly. Vol-au-Vent Fruits a la Creme.
Bavarois a l’Emperatrice. Maids of Honour.
Iced Pudding. Croiites dAnchois.
Dessert.
ipii
■ :
if /. ^
CALVES’ EARS A LA FINANC1ERE.
FILLETS OF BEEF A LA MILANAISE.
MEAT REMOVES.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
817
Speaker’s Dinner, March 8, 1893.
PREMIER SERVICE.
POTAGES.
Tortue Claire. Consomme a l’Andalouse.
Poissons.
Filets de Soles Rouenaise. Saumon, Sauce Ilollandaise.
Entrees.
Souffles a la Royale, Pointes d’ Asperges.
Filets de Pluviers a la Rohemienne.
Releves.
Selle de Mouton. Poulardes aux Huitres.
Jambon aux Epinards.
SECOND SERVICE.
Sorbets au Champagne.
Rots.
Pigeons de Bordeaux. Terrines de Foies Gras.
Asperges au naturel.
Entremets.
Gateau de Compaigne. Plombiers Glacis aux Avelines.
Souffle de Fromage a la Cadogan.
Glaces.
Creme d’Ananas. Eau de Cerises.
The Philadelphia Art Club Dinner to Mr. Edward Shippen,
its President, Jan. 12, 1892.
Cliablis.
Amontillado.
Rudesheimer, Orleans,
1886.
Chateau LeoviUe, 1878.
Giesler Brut, 1884.
Cinderella Punch.
Madeira, 1820.
Cigars.
Liqueurs.
Blue Points.
Printaniere Royale.
Rock a l’Art Club.
Supreme de Volaille.
Fresli Mushrooms.
Saddle of Canadian Lamb.
Potatoes, Windsor. New Peas.
Terrapin.
Roast Grouse a la Sultan.
Celery Mayonnaise.
Meringue Glacd. Gateaux assorted.
Coffee.
Speaker’s Dinner, March 1, 1893.
PREMIER SERVICE.
POTAGES.
Tortue Claire. Consomme a la Chartreuse.
Poissons.
Truite, Sauce Genevoise.
Filets de Turbot a la Cardinale.
Entrees.
Timbales de Volaille a la Financiere.
Mignons de Bceuf aux Truffes.
Releves.
Selles de Mouton roti. Poulardes a la Marechale.
Jambon aux Epinards. Punch a la Romaine.
SECOND SERVICE.
Rots.
Pluviers sur Canapes. Haricots Verts, sautes.
Terrines de Foies Gras.
Asperges en Branches.
Entremets.
Poires a la Conde. Timbales de Glace.
Huitres. Anges. Rebellis.
Glace d’Oranges. Creme de Pain Bis.
VOL. II.
Dinner given by the Union League of Philadelphia,
Nov. 28, 1892, to the Hon. William Potter before his
departure as United States Minister to Italy.
Rhine Wine.
Lynn Haven Blue Points.
Clear Green Turtle Soup.
Sherry.
Boiled Striped Bass, White Wine Sauce.
Cucumbers.
Chickens’ Breasts with Fresh Mushrooms.
Claret.
Roast Saddle of Mutton, Currant Jelly.
French String Beans. Potatoes.
Champagne.
Orange Punch.
Terrapin.
Roast Quail, Stuffed Truffles.
Celery Salad.
Cisars- Ices. Coffee.
Speaker’s Dinner, March 15, 1893.
PREMIER SERVICE.
POTAGES.
Tortue Claire.
Consomme Printanier a la Royale.
Poissons.
Turbot, Sauce de Homard.
Darnes de Saumon, Sauce Genevoise.
Entrees.
Ris d’Agneau a la Parisienne.
Cotelettes de Mouton a la Soubise.
Releves.
Filets de Boeuf braisd a l’Andalouse.
Poulets rotis aux Cresson.
t
Jambon aux Epinards.
SECOND SERVICE.
Punch a la Romaine.
R6ts.
Pluviers rotis. Haricots Verts, sautds.
Terrines de Foies Gras a la Strasburg.
Asperges au naturel.
Entremets.
Peches a lTmp<5ratrice.
Gelee d’Oranges a la Moscovite.
Croutes Eccosaises.
Creme d’Abricots. Eau de Citron.
Banquet given by the Directors of the Grand Hotel, Bristol,
Dec. 6, 1889.
Native Oysters.
Thick Turtle. Clear Turtle.
Soles a la Grande. Red Mullet and Bordeaulaise Sauce.
Calves’ Sweetbreads a la Toulouse.
Pigeons a H Duchesse.
Fillets of Beef a la Chateaubriand.
Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce. Ox-tongue.
Pheasants. Snipe.
French Salad.
Chickens’ Livers a la Broche.
Vol-au-Vent of Apricots. Victoria Pudding.
Tipsy Cake. Madeira Jelly.
Ice Pudding a la Nesselrode.
Anchovies on Toast. Cheese Straws.
Dessert.
3 G
818
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Memorial Dinner of the Union League of Philadelphia in
honour of Ulysses S. Grant, April 27, 1891.
Latour Blanche.
Amontillado.
Chateaux Margaux.
Royal Charter.
Liqueurs.
Cigars.
Little Neck Clams.
Consomme Appomattox.
Soft-shell Crabs on Toast, Sauce Ravigote.
Cucumbers.
Roast Fillet of Beef pique with Fresh
Mushrooms.
French String Beans.
New Potatoes sautA
New Asparagus, Hollandaise.
Sorbet a la Grant.
Roast English Snipe. Broiled Tomatoes.
Lettuce Salad. Cheese.
Fancy Ices. Coffee.
An Inspection Luncheon of the Fourth Battalion of the
Royal Warwickshire Regiment at Warwick, June 26, 1892.
Salmon Mayonnaise. Lobster Salads en Mayonnaise.
Aspic de Foie Gras. Aspic Lobster.
Mayonnaise Chicken. Galantine de Volaille.
Lamb Cutlets en Aspic.
Pigeon Pie a la Franfaise. Oyster Patties.
Duckling. Roast Chicken.
York Hams. Tongues.
Tomato Salad. Salads a la Russe.
Lamb Cutlets en Foie Gras.
Capons a la Royal. Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Sirloin of Beef. Galantine of Veal.
Veal-and-Ham Pies.
Blanc mange. Strawberry Cream.
Charlotte a la Russe. Italian Creams.
Savarin Cake and Apricots.
Meringues a la Chantilly. Pastries Various. Trifle
Lemon Jellies. Madeira Jellies. Punch Jellies.
Macedoine Jellies.
Ices.
Strawberry Cream. Vanilla Cream. Lemon Water.
Dessert.
Club House Dinner of the Union League of Philadelphia,
Jan. 30, 1892.
Latour Blanche.
Olorosa.
Royal Charter.
Clos de Vougeot.
Liqueurs.
Huitres au naturel.
Tortue Clair.
Filet de Pompano, Joinville.
Concombres.
Selle de Mouton Anglais, Purde de
Marions.
Haricots Verts.
Pommes de Terre Nouvelles.
Supreme de Perdreaux a la Perigord.
Artichauts Frais a l’ltalienne.
Sorbets d’Oranges.
Terrapin.
Be casses roties. Tomatoes au Gratin.
Salade de Laitue.
Fromage de Camembert.
Glaces. Gateaux Cafe.
Complimentary Banquet in honour of the American Base
ball Players, Dec. 18, at the Town Hall, Sydney.
Huitres au Naturel. Huitres en Aspic.
Galantine de Dinde en Aspic. Dinde roti au Traffe.
L’Oie rotie. Canetons rotis. Poulet roti.
Galantine de Veau. Pate aux Abatis d’Oie.
Patii Vol-au-Vent d’Huitres.
PatfS de Veau et Jambon.
Aloyau de Bceuf. Rond de Boeuf.
Selle de Mouton. Jambon de Yore decoupA
Langues de Bceuf.
Pommes de Terre. Petits Pois.
Mayonnaise d’Homards. Mayonnaise de Crevettes.
Salade a la Francaise. Salade d’Anchoix.
Mayonnaise de Volaille.
Pouding de Prince de Galles.
Gelee de California.
Tipsy Cakes. Trifles.
Charlotte Russe. Gateau de Savoy.
Pommes Meringues. Creme de Framboise.
Gelee au Vin de Madere. Gelee d’Oranges.
Meringues a la Chantilly. Tartalettes Variee.
Glace de Vanille a la Creme.
Glace de Framboise a l’Eau.
Dessert.
CafA
Dinner to the Hon. Edwin H. Fitler, given by his fellow
members of the Union League, at the close of his
administration as Mayor of Philadelphia, April 30, 1891.
Little Neck Clams.
Chateau d’Yquem.
Consommd d’Orleans.
Brook Trout a la Chambord.
Amontillado.
Cucumbers.
Schloss Johannisberg.
Vol-au-Vent of Sweetbread with Fresh
Mushrooms.
Chateau Lafite.
Roast Ribs of Spring Lamb.
New Peas. New Potatoes a la Creme.
Perrier Jouet.
Tomatoes Stuffed with Oyster Crabs.
Royal Charter.
Sorbet de Menthe.
Romance Conti.
Roast Doe Bird.
Madeira, 1832.
New Asparagus au Beurre.
Hearts of Lettuces,
l’ate de Foie Gras.
Cognac.
Glaces. Cakes.
Cheese. Cafe. Fruits.
Luncheon on board the Launch of H.M.S. “Blenheim,’1
July 5, 1890.
Salmon en Mayonnaise.
Quails a la Ripon.
Roast Chickens.
Perigord Pies. Pigeon Pies,
Hams. Tongues.
Lobster Salad.
Ribs of Lamb.
Orange and Fruit Jellies.
Suedoise aux Conserves.
Italian Creams.
Compotes a la Favorite.
Meringues a la Francaise.
Gateaux a la Metternich.
Ices, &c., &c.
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
819
Dinner at Trinity College, Cambridge, June 11, 1892.
Hors D’CEuvres.
Roy an s a la Vatel. Farced Olives. Saucisson de Lyon.
Filleted Anchovies and Capers.
Soups.
Clear Turtle. Puree a la Reine.
Fish.
Montrose Salmon, Prawn Sauce and Cucumber.
Timbales de Filets de Soles a TAmbassadrice.
Entrees.
Vol-au-Vent de Cailles a la Financiere.
Ris de Veau a la Grande Monarque.
Ponclie a la Romaiue.
Releves.
Saddle of Lamb. Haunch of Venison.
French Leans. Asparagus.
Roast.
Turkey Poults. Goslings.
Salade Franfaise. Peas.
Sweets.
The Chancellor’s Pudding. Mansfield Pudding.
Gelee aux Fraises a la Xeres.
Bavaroise d’Ananas a la Jamai'que.
Croquenbouche d’Amandes et Fruits de la Saison.
Charlotte a la Parisienne.
Poudings Glace a la Hartington et a la Chateaubriand.
Cheese, &c.
Annual Dinner of the Prudential Assurance Company,
March 5, 1891.
Mock Turtle.
Eels a la Bordelaise.
Salmon. Turbot.
Vol-au-Vent aux Huitres.
Timbale a la Parmentier.
Boiled Chickens a lTmpe ratrice.
Hams. Tongues.
Saddle of Mutton.
Widgeon. Turkey Poults.
Wine and Orange Jellies.
Italian Creams.
Croutes aux Fruits.
Meringues a la Creme.
Gateaux a la Victoria.
Iced Puddings.
The Sixty-fourth Annual Festival of the Original United
Friendly Society of Cooks and Confectioners, 1890.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Brunswick Sausages. Foie Gras.
Olives.
Tomato. Clear Spring.
Salmon, Lobster Sauce.
Whitebait, plain and devilled.
Vol-au-Vent a la Financiere.
Mutton Cutlets, Cucumber Sauce.
Boiled Fowls. Cumberland Ham.
Forequarter of Lamb. Dressed Salad.
Gosling. Chips.
Baba au Rhum. Maraschino Jellies.
Maids of Honour. Pineapple Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Dessert.
Champagne— Deutz
and Geldermann.
Complimentary Dinner given by the Mayor and Aldermen
of the Borough of Croydon, to Mr. Alderman Haggis, on
his appointment as Deputy-Chairman of the County
Council of London, Nov. 25, 1889.
Punch.
Dry Sherry.
Mareobrunner.
Moet and Chandon
Royal Imperial, 1880
vintage, cuvee 100.
L. Uoederer, 1880
vintage.
S. Estephe.
Old Port.
Chateau Lafite, 1877
vintage.
Liqueurs.
Huitres, Natives.
Tortue Claire.
Creme a la Bagration.
Turbot, Sauce Mousseline and Genevoise.
Eperlans frits Ravigote.
Coteleites de Homard a la Victoria.
Turban de Filet de Lievre Dauphine.
Ris de Veau a la Bouquetiere.
Hanche de Mouton.
Choux-fleurs. Pommes Voisin.
Cliapon a l’Ecossaise.
Canards Sauvage, Sauce au Vin d’Oporto.
Perdreaux sur Canape.
Salade de Laitue.
Artichauts a la Bordelaise.
Peche de Montreuil a lTmperatrice.
Nids d’Hirondelles.
Pouding Glace aux Millefruits.
Laitances de Hareng a la Diable.
Dessert.
Supper at the Ball given by the Right Hon. James White-
head, Lord Mayor, Oct. 29, 1889, at the Mansion House.
Boar’s Head.
Fillets of Soles en Mayonnaise.
Ballotine of Pheasants and Cherry Salad.
Oyster Patties.
Galantine of Chickens.
Braised Turkeys.
Capons en Bechamel.
Lamb Cutlets a la Duchesse.
Larks a la Ripon.
Game Pies. Lobster Salad.
Roast Pheasants. Roast Chickens.
Ham. Tongue.
Aspic of Foies Gras.
Cliaudfroid de Crevettes.
Victoria Creams. Suedoise a la Russe.
Fruit Jelly.
Gateaux a la Bordeaux.
Meringues a la Creme.
Ices. Trifles.
Sixteenth Anniversary Banquet of the Catholic Club of
Philadelphia, Feb. 6, 1893.
Sauterne.
Pontet Canet.
Mumm’s.
Perrier Jouefc.
Cigars.
Blue Points.
Celery. Olives. Radishes.
Printaniere Royale.
Salmon, Sauce Hollandaise.
Cucumbers.
Bouch^es a la Reine.
Fillet of Beef a la Parisienne.
Fresh Mushrooms la Creme.
Tomates a la Marseillaise.
Punch a la Cardinal.
Stewed Terrapin a l’Art Club.
Red head Duck. Celery Mayonnaise.
Roquefort and Camembert Cheese.
Ices. Assorted Cakes. Fruit.
Coffee.
3 G 2
820
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Entertainment to the Ladies, June 5, 1890, at the
Haberdashers’ Hall.
Potages.
Tortue. Tortue Claire.
Poissons.
Cotelettes de Truite a la Bengalese.
Turbot. Whitebait.
Entrees.
Escalopes de liis de Veau a la Portuguese.
Timbale de Cailles a la Sultane.
Releves.
Petits Poulets au Beaune d’Ecrevisses.
Jambon au Madere. Quartiers d’Agneau.
Rots.
Canetons.
Entremets.
Suedoise a la Baronne. Gelees a la Dantzig.
Pouding a la Marquise. Meringues a la Vanille.
Gateaux aux Conserves.
Releves.
Pointings a la Nesselrode.
Dessert, &c.
Dinner on Plow Monday, Jan. 11, 1892, at the
Mansion House. .
Soups.
Turtle. Clear Turtle.
Fish.
Fillets of Turbot, Hollandaise Sauce.
Salmon. Smelts.
Entrees.
Capilotade de Ris de Veau.
Petites Timbales de Mauviettes en Surprise.
Removes.
Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce.
Braised Hams. Saddle of Mutton.
Roasts.
Pheasants. Wild Ducks.
Sweets.
Chartreuse d’Oranges.
Meringues a la Vanille. Wine Jelly.
Petits Nougats a la Creme. Iced Puddings.
Croutes a la Clarisse.
Supper at the Ball given by the Right Honourable Joseph
Savory, Lord Mayor, April 22, 1891, at the Mansion
House.
Boar’s Head.
Salmon Mayonnaise. Trout and Verte Sauce.
Chicken Cutlets a l’Americaine.
Lamb Cutlets a l’Andalouse.
Quails a la Ripon.
Perigord Pies. Capon en Galantine.
Roast Chickens.
Lobster Salads.
Aspic de Foies Gras. Aspic Prawns.
Ham. Tongue.
Creams. Bavaroise a la Moderne.
Fruit Jelly.
Gateaux a la Metternicli.
Meringues a la Francaise.
Trifles.
Dinner at the Painter-Stayners’ Hall, Oct. 18, 1889.
Clear Mock Turtle and Game Soup.
Cod.
Vols-au- Vents de Mauviettes.
Roast Chickens. Warden Pies.
Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce.
Tongues. Ham.
Saddles of Mutton. Sirloin of Beef.
Pheasants. Partridges. Goslings.
Victoria Cream.
Wine Jellies. Clear Jellies.
Meringues a la Creme.
Maids of Honour. Mince Pies.
Plum Puddings, Iced Puddings.
Dessert. Ices.
Dinner served at Wormley’s, Washington, U.S., Dec. 3, 1888.
Huitres sur Coquilles.
Potages.
A la Reine. Consomme a la Moderne.
Hors d’GEuvre.
Rissoles a la Romaine.
Poissons.
Saumon bouilli, Sauce Portugaise.
Filets de Bass a la Venitienne. Pommes Duchesse.
Releve.
Filets de Bceuf a la Financiere.
Haricots Verts.
Entrees.
Vol-au-Vent de Perdreaux au Supreme.
Timbale de Macaroni a la Parisienne.
Pois Franpais. Terrapin.
Punch Arabe.
Aspic ile Foie Gras en Bellevue.
Rotis.
Faisans Anglais. Canvas- back Duck.
Croquettes de Maryland.
Salade.
Entremet.
Pouding de Cabinet.
Dessert.
Gelee de Californie. Charlotte au Maraquino.
Creme Napolitaine.
Gateaux. Raisins. Oranges.
Poires. Bananes. Fruits glacis. Caf£.
A Dinner given at Sir James Whitehead’s.
Hors d’CEuvre.
Huitres au naturel.
Potages.
Consomme a la Leopold. Potage a la Saratoga.
Poissons.
Saumon bouilli. Turbot a la Morny.
Entree.
Cailles a la Chaponay.
Releve.
Selle de Mouton.
Rot.
Faisan roti au Salade de Cdleri.
Entremets.
Pouding a la St. James. Bavaroise aux Pistaches,
Croutes a la Frilurge.
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
821
Banquet given by John Harris, Esq., Mayor of Sydney,
March 14, 1888, at the Town Hall.
Oysters.
Soup.
A la Reine.
Galantine of Turkey aux Truffes en Aspic.
Galantine of Chicken en Aspic.
Roast Turkey. Roast Duckling. Boiled Chicken.
Raised Chicken and Ham Pie. Giblet Pie.
Sirloin of Beef. Saddle of Lamb.
Aspic de Foie Gras.
York Ham. Ox-tongue.
Mayonnaise of Lobster.
Plain Salads.
Entremets.
Champagne Jelly. Fruit Meringues.
Charlotte Russe. Almond Pudding.
Victoria Pudding.
Tartlets. Croquenbouche.
Dessert. Cafe.
Dinner in honour of Sir Saul and Lady Samuel, May 18,
1888, at the National Park, Sydney.
Dinde roti en Aspic. Poulet roti.
Dinde roti aux Truffe.
Canard Sauvage. Canard roti.
Jambon de York. Langue de Boeuf.
Selle de Mouton. Dinde piqud.
Sirloin de Been!
Pintade piquee. Boeuf en Ronde.
Galantine de Dinde. Oie rotie.
Pate de Huitres.
Mayonnaise en Ecrevisse de Mer.
Plaid Salade.
Mayonnaise de Poulet.
Legumes.
Petits Pois. Tomatoes.
Pommes de Terre.
Entremets.
Ponime de Meringue. Creme de Meringue.
Gelee Varie . Gateau Savoy.
Charlotte Russe. Patisseries. Tartelettes.
Fruit en Saison.
Dessert. Cafe.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, June 6, 1890.
Potage.
Consommd a l’Orlando.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Poisson.
Torpilles de Filets de Sole a la Russe.
Releve.
Filet de Boeuf a la Mardchale.
Entree.
Boudins de Foie Gras a la Taylerand.
Rot.
Cailles roties.
Salade de Laitues.
Asperges vertes.
Entremet.
Gateaux Noisettes.
Glace.
Regular Dinner at Wormley’s, Washington, U.S.
Oysters on Half Shells.
Soups.
Consomme and Cream Barley.
Fish.
Boiled Rock. Holland Potatoes.
Side Dishes.
Small Patdsof Chicken.
Tenderloin of Beef with Mushrooms.
Sweetbreads with Spinach.
Timbales of Macaroni.
Terrapin, Maryland style.
Roman Punch.
Beaune. ROAST.
Canvas-back Duck with Currant Jelly.
Salad.
Sweet Dishes.
Cabinet Pudding.
Cream Diplomate and Champagne Jelly.
Dessert.
Napolitain Cakes. Fruits.
Plumbia. French Coffee.
Sauterne.
Skerry.
Champagne.
Chateau Lafite.
Supper at a Ball given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt,
July 17, 1889.
Potage.
Consommd Claire.
Entrees Chaudes.
Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois.
Poulets rotis au Cresson.
Entrees Froides.
Torpilles de Filets de Soles.
Chaudfroid de Cailles a la Royale.
Cremes de Volaille Trente et Quarante.
Chaudfroid de Volaille. Poulets a la Gelee.
Petits Pains a la Francaise.
Langue a l’Ecarlate.
Medaillons de Truite a la Russe.
Cerises de Mauviettes a TEpicurienne.
Tomates a la Grosvenor.
Eclipses de Poussin a la Lengsberg.
Gfufs a l’Appetissante.
Aspic de Foie Gras en Bellevue.
Sandwiches varies.
Releves Froids.
Saumon Historie sur Gondole Venitienne.
Poulardes a la Prince de Galles sur Socle.
Filets de Boeuf a la Persanne.
Galantines de Volaille a la Urbani Dubois.
Pieces Montees.
Napolitaines ddcords. Baba a la Polonaise.
Brioche Parisienne. Gateau Breton decore.
Meringue Suisse. Gateau Millefeuille.
Entremets.
Gelees Macedoine de Fruits.
Charlotte Russe aux Fraises.
Pave Terollion. Bavarois Vanille et Cafe.
Gateau Vert-Yert. Gateau Zamaique.
Patisserie Variee.
Fanchonnettes.
Tartelettes de Fraise.
Bonne Bouche.
Petits Nana.
Nonpareil.
Mirlitons.
Puits d’Amour.
Gil-blas.
Frascati.
822
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, May 16, 1890.
Potage.
Printanier a la Royale.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Poisson.
Escaloppes de Turbot a la Montpensier.
Releve.
Selle de Mouton, Jardiniere.
Entree.
Supremes de Pintade a la Perigueuse.
Rot.
Cailles roties sur Canapes. Salade Hollandaise.
Asperges, Sauce Mousseuse.
Entremet.
Bombe au Cafe.
Biscottes aux Avelines.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, March 3, 1890.
Potage.
Printanier a la Doria.
Hors d'CEuvres.
Poisson.
Paupiettes de Sole a la Radziwyl.
Releve.
Filet de Boeuf a l'Andalouse.
Entree.
Ruches de Volaille a la Vert Pre.
Rot.
Becassines roties sur Canapes. Salade Russe.
Pois a la Franpaise.
Entremet.
Gateau Mignon.
Glace.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, May 24, 1889.
POTAGES.
Consomme a la Chanceliere.
Creme de Laitue, Princesse.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Aspic d’CEufs de Pluvier. Croutes de Caviar.
Poissons.
Saumon cisele, Sauces Genevoise et Hollandaise.
Lavallieres de Filets de Sole a la Russe.
Releve.
Filets de Bceuf a la Montgador.
Entrees.
Cremes de Poussin a la Regence.
Noisettes d’Agneau a la R naissance.
Rots.
Cailles roties sur Canapes.
Aspic de Foie Gras a 1’Alsacienne.
Salades varices. Asperges vertes, Anglaises.
Entremet.
Gateaux Bourdalone.
Glaces.
Dinner at the Worshipful Company of Skinners.
Soups.
Tortue et Tortue Claire.
Fish.
Croquenbouche a la Biscair. Soles a la Joinville.
Saumon. Turbot. Eperlans frits.
Entrees.
Vol-au-Vent des Mauviettes.
Casserole de Ris d’Agneau aux Petits Pois.
Removes.
Pates a la Maitre d’Hotel. Dinde a la Piincess.
Petits Poulets rotis. Jambon de York.
Langue de Bceuf. Selle de Mouton.
Handle de Mouton.
Roasts.
Faisans. Canards Sauvages.
Pluviers.
Entremets.
Pudding de Mcelle Gelles a 1’Orange.
Gelles au Vin. Meringues a la Franpaise.
Genoises a la Chantilly. Suedoise aux Conserves.
Pudding a la Nesselrode.
Supper at a Ball given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt,
June 18, 1887.
Potage.
Consomme Claire.
Entrees Chau des.
Poulets rotis au Cresson.
Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Petits Pois.
Entrees Froides.
Cendrillons de Filets de Sole.
Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Bergere.
CEufs a l’Appetissante.
Darnes de Truite a la Parisienne.
Cerises de Mauviettes a la Lucullus.
Tomates a la Grosvenor.
Chaudfroids de Cailles a la Royale.
Supremes de Volaille a la Belgravia.
Petits Pains a la Franpaise.
Aspic de Foie Gras en Bellevue.
Poulets de coupes a la Gelee.
Langues a l’Ecarlate.
Sandwiches varies.
Releves Froids.
Saumon Historie, Sauce Ravigote.
Poulardes a l’Anglaise.
Filet de Bceuf a la Gelee.
Galantines de Volaille.
Pieces Montees.
Phare Napoli taine. Baba a la Polonaise.
Brioche Parisienne. Ruche en Meringue.
Chateau Briant sur Socle.
Millefeuille a la Renaissance.
Entremets.
Gelles Macedoines. Pave Te roll ion.
Girofli Girofla. Gateaux Mascottes.
Bavarois Vanille et Cafe. Sarah Bernhardt.
Patisserie Variee.
Puits d’Amour. Palais de Dame.
Fanferluche. Nanas. Solambos.
Midicis. Jalousies. Gil bias.
Theodora. Grignolos. Mirlitons.
Mireilles.
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
823
Dinner at the Worshipful Company of Spectacle Makers.
Native Oysters.
Clear Turtle. Thick Turtle.
Soles a la Chesterfield.
Salmon, Lobster Sauce.
Vol-au-Vent a la Financiere.
Salmis of Snipe with Watercress.
Lark Pudding. Boiled Turkey Poult.
Ox-tongue.
Cumberland Ham with Madeira.
Saddles of Lamb.
Punch a la Bomaine.
Wild Duck. Golden Plovers.
Chips. Mushrooms.
Apricot Fritters.
Kiimmel Jellies. Italienne Creams.
Meringues Glace s. Ice Pudding.
Dessert.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt May, 16, 1890.
POTAGE.
Printanier a la, Iloyale.
Hoes dTEuvres.
Poisson.
Escaloppes de Turbot a la Montpensier.
Releve.
Selle de Mouton, Jardiniere.
Entree.
Supreme de Pintade a la Perigueuse.
R6t.
Cailles roties sur Canapes.
Salade Hollandaise.
Asperges, Sauce Mousseuse.
Enteemet.
Bombe au Cafe.
Biscottes aux Avelines.
The Sheffield Cutlers’ Feast, 1892.
Soups.
Clear Turtle. Thick Turtle.
Fish.
Turbot, Lobster Sauce. Filleted Soles.
Stewed Eels.
Entrees.
Sweetbreads with Truffles.
Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
Stewed Kidneys and Mushrooms.
Removes.
Sirloin of Beef.
Roast Chickens.
Roast Turkey.
Ham.
Haunch
Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Chickens.
Boiled Turkey.
Tongue.
Venison.
Game.
Pheasants. Partridges.
Sweets.
Wine Jelly. Noyau Jelly.
Brandy Cream. Ginger Cream.
Charlotte Russe. French Pastry, &c.
Ices.
Strawberry. Apricot. Vanilla.
Dessert.
Pines. Melons. Pears. Grapes, &c.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, May 30, 1890.
Potage.
Brunoise a l’Orge d’Allemagne.
Hors d’CEuvres.
Poisson.
Matelotte de Truite a la Bercy.
Releve.
Selle d’Agneau, Jardiniere.
Entree.
Supremes de Volaille a la Regence.
Rot.
Canetons rotis.
Salade. Asperges, Sauce Mousseuse.
Entremet.
Charlotte Russe glace a l'Orange.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, Aug. 8, 1891.
Potage.
Brunoise a la Royale.
Hoes d’CEuvre.
Poisson.
Escaloppes de Saumon.
Releve.
Selle de Pres Sale, Jardiniere.
Entree.
Ris de Veau, Financiere.
Rot.
Poulets rotis. Salade de Laitues.
Haricots Verts saute's.
Entremet.
Timbale Chantilly.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, May 8, 1890,
Potage.
Consomme a la Regence.
Hors d’GEuvres.
Poisson.
Escaloppes de Saumon a la Daumont.
Releve.
Filet de Bceuf a la Bordelaise.
Entree.
Ris d’Agneau a la Clamart.
Rot.
Canetons rotis.
Salade. Asperges vertes.
Entremet.
Chalet Suisse garni de Riz glace.
Dinner given by Sir Julian Goldsmidt, Nov. 8, 1890.
Potage.
Printanier aux Quenelles.
Hors D'GiuvRES.
Poisson.
Escaloppes de Turbot a la Regence.
Releve.
Selle de Mouton, Jardiniere.
Entree.
Turban de Volaille, Financiere.
Rot.
Faisans rotis. Salade de Laitues.
Celeris braises.
Entremet.
Abricotine a la Chantilly.
Marions gillies.
824
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Sixty-sixth Anniversary Festival of the Printers’ Pension
Corporation, April 25, 1893, at the Whitehall Rooms,
Hotel Metropole, London.
Chablis.
Dry Sherry.
Niersteiner.
Huitres au Citron.
POTAGES.
Consomme Duchesse. Puree Portugaise.
Poissons.
Saumon, Sauce Riche.
Blancliaille.
Entrees.
Toumedos a la Bearnaise.
Irroy’s Carte d’Or, sec. Saute de Poulet a l’lndienne.
Granit Metropole.
Releves.
Bollinger & Co., Extra Selle de Mouton de^Galles.
quality, dry. Jamhon braisd aux Epinards.
Legumes.
Petits Pois au Beurre.
Pommes de Terre Nouvelles Rissolees.
Liqueurs.
Chateau Pomy's Grand
Vin.
Gould Campbell’s Old
Bottled Port.
Johannis Natural
Mineral Water.
Roti.
Caille Rotie sur Canape.
Salade.
Asperges, Sauce Mousseuee.
Entremets.
Pouding Souffle a TOrange.
Gelee a l’Orientale.
Canape Proven pale.
Bombe Souveraine.
Petits Fours assortis.
Dessert.
Cafe Noir.
Banquet given to the American Institute of Mining
Engineers at Washington, U.S., Feb. 23, 1838.
Huitres en Coquilles et Celeri.
Potages.
Consomme Celestine. London Lord Mayor.
Poisson.
Bass Rayfie a la Chambord, Sauce Ge noise.
Pommes Hollandaise.
Releve.
Filet de Bceuf, Truffes et Champignons.
Entrees.
Virginia Terrapin au Vin de Madagascar.
Croquettes de Volaille a la Montglas.
Pate de Ris de Veau a la Victoria.
Petits Pois Franpaise.
Pommes Saratoga.
Punch Cardinal.
Aspic de Foie Gras en Bellevue.
Roti.
Canvas-back Duck.
Celeri. Tomates. Laitues Mayonnaise.
Entremets.
Pudding Diplomatiques.
Gelee a lOriental. Glace Napolitaine.
Dessert.
Fruits. Ramequin au Parmesan.
Cafe.
INDEX
A
Abat-Faim i. 1
Abattage i. 1
Abbocati i. 1
Abdelavi i. 1
Abeidero i. 1
Aberdeen Sandwiches ii. 377
Aberfrau Cakes i. 227
Abernethy Biscuits i. 139
Ablette i. 1
Abricotd i. 1
Absinthe i. 1
Lyons i. 1
Montpellier i. 1
Neufehatel i. 1
Pontarlier i. 2
Abyssinian Ales i. 2
Acacia i. 2
Acarus i. 2
Accolade i. 2
Acconnnode i. 2
Accounts i. 2
Acephale i. 2
Acetic Acid i. 2
Acliar i. 2
Acid i. 3
Acetic i. 2
Drops ii. 535
Hydrochloric i. 773
Malic i. 905
Oxalic ii. 68
Pudding ii. 251
Salicylic ii. 360
Tartaric ii. 571
Acitron i. 3
Acorn i. 3
Acquacedrata i. 3
Adam-and-Eve Pudding ii. 251
Punch ii. 273
Adelaide Cake i. 227
Pudding ii. 251
Sandwiches ii. 378
Admiral Cake i. 227
Admiral’s Sauce ii. 385
Adulterations i. 3
Aerated Water, Carlsbad i. 3
Friedrichshall Bitter i. 3
Medicated i. 4
Pullna i. 3
Kosbaeh i. 3
Saccharinated i. 4
S aline i. 4
Seltzer i. 3
Simple i. 4
Vichy i. 3
Wilhelm’s Quelle i. 3
j Adjoue i. 3
ASsculap i. 4
African Beer i. 4
Bitters i. 4
Cakes i. 227
, Agnellotti Turin i. 4
Agnellotto i. 4
Agnew Pudding ii. 251
Agro Dolce Sauce i. 4
Aigen i. 5
Aigrette i. 5
Aigrettes of Anchovies i. 19
Aiguillettes i. 5
Fish i. 5
Sweetbread i. 5
Aillade i. 5
Air i. 5
Aitchbone i. 6
Beef, Boiled Salted i. 107
Ajada i. 6
A jo Blanco i. 6
A j olio i. 6
Akee i. 6
A La i. 6
Bavaroise ii. 385
Bdarnaise ii. 385
Beyrout ii. 386
Blanquette ii. 386
Bordelaise ii. 386
Bourgeoise ii. 386
Bretonne ii. 386
Diable ii. 387
Duchesse ii. 387
Financiere ii. 388
Flamande ii. 388
Francaise ii. 389
Genevoise ii. 389
Hollandaise ii. 387
A l’Amiral ii. 385
A-la-Mode Beef i. 06
Soup i. 98
A l’Aurore ii. 385
Alaju i. 6
Albany Cakes i. 227
Albatross i. 6
Albemarle Pudding ii. 251
Albert Cakes i. 227
Pudding i. 6, ii. 251
Sauce (Sweet Butter) i. 217
Victor Soup ii. 479
Alboronia i. 6
Albumen i. 6
Dried i. 6
Alcohol i. 6
Alderman’s Pudding i. 7, ii. 252
Ale i. 7
Abyssinian i. 2
' Ale Flip i. 7
Mulled i. 7
Posset i. 7
Scotch ii. 411
Aleatico i. 7
Alecost i. 7
Alexandra Pudding i. 7
Iced ii. 252
Algte i. 7
Algerian Wines i. 8
Alkali i. 8
Alkanet i. 8
Alkermes i. 8
Alligator Apple i. 8
Pear i. 8
Allspice i. 9
All -Threes Pudding ii. 252
Allumettes, Anchovy i. 19
Alma Pudding ii. 252
Almack’s Confection i. 9
Almond Albert Cakes i. 9
Bavaroise i. 9
Bird’s-Nest Biscuit i. 10
Biscuit i. 10
Blancmange i. 10
Bread i. 10
Cakes i. 10
Carrot and Turnip Biscuit i. 10
Charlotte Russe, Burnt i. 14
Cheese cakes i. 11
Cracklings i. 11
Cream i. 11
Crisps i. 11
Croquettes i. 1 1
Custard Fritters i. 11
Faggots i. 11
Flavouring i. 14
Genoese Pastry i. 12
Hardbake i. 12
Icing for Cakes i. 12
Jumbles i. 12
Kosher Pudding i. 12
(Meringues i. 12
Milk i. 12
Oil i. 12
Paste i. 12
Paste, Candied i. 12
Paste, Cannelons of i. 14
Pithiviers Cake i. 14
Pralines i. 11
Puddings i. 12, 13
Raspberry Ice, and i. 13
Rice Pudding, and i. 13
Rock Biscuit i. 13
Sandwich Biscuits i. 13
Savarin Pudding i. 13
Savoy Cake i. 13
Soup i. 13
826
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Almond Sponge Biscuits i. 14
Sponge Cake i. 14
Tablets i. 14
Tartlets i. 14
Wafers i. 14
Walnuts Biscuits i. 14
Almonds i. 9
Essence of Bitter i. 14
Forcemeat i. 14
Raisins and, for Dessert i. 13
Salted and Devilled i. 15
Sugared i. 15
To Blanche i. 9
To Colour i. 9
To Pound i. 9
Aloja i. 15
Aloxe i. 15
Alum i. 15
Amabele i. 15
Amandines i. 14
Amasi i. 15
Amazon Bitters i. 150
Tea i. 15
Ambergris i. 15
Amber Pudding ii. 252
Ambrosia i. 16
Syrup i. 16
American Beaten or Maryland Biscuits
i. 140
Beer i. 16
Biscuits i. 140
Black Pudding ii. 252
Bread i. 180
Brown Bread i. 180
Candy ii. 535
Dishes i. 16
Drinks i. 16
Meat i. 17
Ovens i. 17
Premium Bread i. 180
Slow i. 219
Soup ii. 480
Thirded Bread i. 180
White Cake i. 227
Wines i. 17
Ames Cake i. 227
Amhurst Pudding ii. 252
Ammonia i. 1 8
Amnastich i. 18
Amontillado i. 18
Amourettes i. 18
Timbales i. 18
Amphitryon i. 18
Amy don i. 18
Anacreon i. 18
Analysis i. 18
Anchovies i. 19
Aigrettes of i. 19
Fried i. 21
in Surprise i. 21
Orlys of i. 21
Stuffed i. 21
To Serve i. 19
with Eggs and Endive i. 19
with Olives i. 20
Anchovy Allumettes i. 19
Biscuits i. 19
Butter i. 19
Butter Sauce i. 19
Canapes i. 19
Caper Sauce, and i. 19
Cream i. 19
Cushions i. 19
Essence i. 20
Essence for Chops, Steaks, &c. i. 20
Fritters i. 20
Ketchup i. 20
Omelet i. 20
Paste i. 20
Anchovy Pear i. 21
Potted i. 21
Powder i. 20
Relish i. 20
* Salad i. 20
Sandwiches i. 20
Sauce i. 21
Stuffing i. 21
Tart i. 21
Tartines i. 21
Toast i. 21
Andalusian Soup ii. 480
Andouille i. 21
Andouillette i. 21
Angel-fish i. 21
Angelica i. 22
Comfits i. 22
Compote of Oreen i. 22
Dried i. 22
Preserved Green i. 22
Punch i. 22
Ratafia i. 22
with Jellies, Preserved i. 22
Angel Pudding ii. 253
Angels’ Bread i. 22
Cake i. 22, 228
Angels on Horseback i. 22
Anglo-French Stuffed Cake i. 228
Angostura Bitters i. 23
Aniline Colouring i. 427
Animal Wines i. 23
Animelles i. 23
Fried i. 23
Anise i. 23
Aniseed i. 23
Bread i. 23
Cake i. 23
Comfits or Balls i. 23
Cordial i. 23
Essence i. 23
Lozenges i. 23
Anisette i. 23
Jelly with Pears i. 23
Anker i. 23
Annatto i. 23
Antacid Lozenges i. 883
Antelopes i. 24
Anthracite i. 24
Antibilious Lozenges i. 883
Antiferments i. 24
Apes i. 24
Apicius i. 24
Apollinaris Water i. 3
Apostelkuchen i. 24
Appearances i. 24
Appetite i. 24
Apple, Alligator i. 8
Almond Pudding, and i. 26
Apricot Meringue, and i. 26
Bavaroise i. 26
Brandy i. 26
Bread i. 26
Butter i. 26
Cake i. 27
Charlotte i. 27
Chartreuse i. 27
Cheese i. 27
Cheese-cakes i. 27
Chutney i. 28
Cornflour Pudding, and i. 28
Cream i. 28
Cream Cake i. 28
Croquettes i. 28
Crumb Pudding, and i. 28
Currant Soup, and i. 28
Custard i. 28
Custard Pie i. 28
Custard Pudding i. 28
Custard with Vanilla i. 28
Apple Dessert 28
Devil i. 29
Drink i. 29
Dumplings i. 29
Flawn i. 29
Float i. 29
Fool i. 29
Fritters i. 29
Ginger i. 30
Hedgehog i. 30
Ice i. 30
in Apricot Jam i. 26
Jam i. 30
Jelly i. 30
Johnny Cake i. 30
Manger i. 30
Marmalade i. 30, 38
Meringo or Meringue i. 30
Molasses i. 31
Open-Tart i. 3'
Pancakes i. 31
Paste i. 31
Pickle i. 31
Pies i. 32
Porcupine i. 32
Pudding i. 33
Puffs i. 33
Quince 'Tart, and i. 34
Roly-poly i. 34
Sandwich i. 34
Sauce i. 34
Shape i. 34
Shortcake i. 34
Snow i. 34
Snowballs i. 34
Souffld i. 34
Souffle in Paste i. 35
Soup i. 34
Sugar i. 35
Syrup i. 35
Tapioca i. 35
Tapioca Pudding, and i. 35
Tart i. 35
Tartlets i. 36
Timbale i. 36
Toddy i. 36
Trifle i. 36
Turnovers i. 36
Water i. 37
Water-ice i. 37
Wine i. 37
Apples i. 25
a la Cherbourg i. 28
&. la Portugaise i. 32
a la Princess of W ales i. 32
Baked i. 37
Barberry Jelly with i. 76
Bavaroise i. 37
Buttered i. 37
Cabbage, and i. 220
Compote i. 37
Cooking i. 25
Crisped i. 38
Custard i. 510
Dessert i. 25
Dessert or Cooking i. 26
Dried i. 38
Florentine, Mode of Preparin
Fried i. 38
Minced i. 38
Miroton i. 38
Preservation i. 38
Preserved i. 39
Siberian Crabs ii. 451
Spiced i. 39
Stewed i. 39
Suedoise i. 39
Sugar- Iced i. 39
Surprise i. 39
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
827
Apples, Vol-au-Vent i. 39
with Butter, Baked i. 37
with Currants i. 28
Apricot Biscuits i. 40
Bomhe with Maraschino i. 40
Bonnes Bouches i. 40
Brandy i. 40
Cakes i. 40
Charlotte Russe i. 41
Chartreuse i 41
Cheese i. 41
Cream i. 41
d’Artois i. 40
Effervescing Drink i. 44
Flawn i. 41
Fritters i. 41
Green, Compote i. 44
Ice i. 41
Ice Cream i. 42
Jam i. 42
Jelly i. 42
Marmalade i. 42
Nougat with ii. 7
Omelet i. 42
Open Tart i. 42
“ Pain,” or Bread i. 42
Paste i. 42
Pastille Drops i. 42
Pie i. 42
Pistachio Ice, and i. 43
Pudding i. 43
Ratafia i. 43.
Sauce i. 43
Snowballs i. 43
Souffle i. 43
Tartlets i. 43
Toast i. 43
Vol-au- Vents of i. 45.
Water-ice i. 44.
Wine i. 45.
Apricots i. 39
a la Colbert i. 41
& la Conde i. 41
Bavaroise i. 44
Bottled i. 44.
Broiled i. 44
Compote i. 44
Croutons with i. 44
Dried i. 44
F rozen i. 44
Imitation i. 44
Nougats i. 44
Preserved i. 45
Sufkloise i. 45
with Noyau Jelly i. 42
with Rice i. 43
Aqua Vitae i. 45
Armadillo i. 45
Armagnac i. 45
Army Punch ii. 273
Aromatic Bitters i. 150
Confections i. 429
Seasoning i. 45
Arracacha i. 45
Arrack i. 45
Arropia i. 45
Arrowroot i. 45
Biscuits i. 46
Blancmanger i. 46
Cake i. 46
Cream i. 46
Custard i. 46
Drink i. 46
Drink with Black Currant Preserves
i. 46
Drops i. 47
Food i. 47
Fritters i. 47
Jelly i. 47
Arrowroot Pudding i. 47
Sauce i. 47
Shape i. 47
Souffle i. 47
Soup i. 47
Art i. 47
Artichoke Bottoms for Canapes i. 49
for Garnish i. 49
Fried i. 50
Stuffed i. 50
with French Beans i. 49
Artichoke Chips, Jerusalem i. 50
Cream i. 49
Omelet i. 49
Soup i. 49
Soup, Jerusalem i. 50
Tomato Salad, and i. 49
Artichokes i. 47
a la Barigoule i. 48
Boiled plain i. 48
Bonnes Bouches i. 49
cooked in Italian style i. 49
Eggs and i. 49
Jerusalem i. 50
Jerusalem, au Gratin i. 50
Jerusalem, Baked i. 50
Jerusalem, Boiled i. 51
Jerusalem, cooked in Italian style
i. 50
Jerusalem, Fried i. 51
Jerusalem, Mashed i. 51
Jerusalem, Onion Salad, and i. 50
Jerusalem, Sauce i. 50
Jerusalem, Scalloped i. 51
Preserved i. 50
Puree of i. 50
Stewed in Gravy i. 49
Artificial Aerated Water i. 4
Cheese i. 343
Milk i. 51 , 938
Ashberries i. 51
Ashberry Jelly i. 51
Ash Cake i. 228
Asparagus i. 5 1
a la Pompadour i. 53
Boiled i. 53
Cream with i. 52
Eggs and i. 52
Ice i. 52
in a Crust i. 52
in French Rolls i. 52
in Spanish style i. 53
Omelet i. 52
Peas i. 52
Points i. 53
Preserved i. 54
Pudding i. 53
Puree i. 54
Salad i. 53
Salmon Salad and i. 53
Sauce (hot) i. 53
Soup i. 53
To warm and serve Tinned i. 54
Young Carrots with i. 53
Aspemle Odorante i. 54
Aspic i. 54
Border i. 55
Chicken Puree i. 607
Cold Stewed Ribs of Beef with
i. 113
Crayfish in i. 56
Crayfish with Salad i. 457
Fillet of Beef in i. 1 1 5
for Ornamentations i. 56
Game in i. 663
Jelly i. 54
Lie or Sauce i. 55
Lobster i. 866
Norman style, in i. 55
Aspic Oysters ii. 70
Partridges ii. 93
Salmon with ii. 367
Sauce for Salad i. 55
Veal ii. 682
Ass i. 56
Assafcetida i. 56
Assam i. 57
Asses’ Milk i. 56
Assiettes Montees i. 57
Asti i. 57
Asuree i. 57
Atherine i. 57
Athole Brose i. 203
Cakes i. 228
Attar of Roses for Flavouring ii. 346
Attelettes i. Si
Attereaux i. 58
Au Bain-marie i. 59
Bleu i. 59
Four i. 59
Gras i. 59
Gratin i. 59
Jus i. 59
Maigre i. 59
Naturel i. 59
Aum or Ohm i. 59
Aunt Louisa’s Pudding ii. 253
Aurelian Cakes i. 228
Aurora Sauce i. 59, ii. 385
Australian Barley Sugar i. 80
Beer i. 59
Meat i. 59
Sauce ii. 385
Wines i. 60
Austrian Wines i. 60
Ava-Fara i. 60
Avi i. 60
Avocado Pear i. 60
Ayoli i. 60
Azia i. 60
Azucarillo i. 60
B
Baba i. 60
au Madere i. 61
Cake i. 61
Cake, hot i. 61
with Vanilla Cream Sauce i. 61
Babeurre i. 62
Babka i. 62
Baby’s Pudding ii. 253
Bacalao i. 62
a la Biscayenne i. 62
a la Vizcaino i. 62
with Garlic Sauce i. 62
Backings i. 62
Bacon i. 62
Boiled i. 64
Broiled i. 65
Cabbage and Boiled i. 65
Fat i. 64
Fat Salad Dressing i. 64
for Breakfast i. 64
Fried i. 65
Green i. 62
Omelet i. 64
Salad i. 64
Salted and Dried i. 62
828
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Bacon, Salted, Dried, and Smoked 7. 63
Spinach and 7. 64
Steamed i. 65
To choose 7. 63
with Macaroni 7. 64
Baden-Baden Bread Pudding 7. 186
Pudding 77. 253
Badet 7. 65
Bael 7. 65
Candied 7. 66
Jam 7. 65
Preserve 7. 66
Sherbet (Indian) 7. 66
Bagration Soup ii. 480
Bain-Marie i. 66
Bairn Brack Cake 7. 228
Baked Apple Roll i. 37
Apples i. 37
Apples, Glazed i. 37
Apples with Butter i. 37
Barbel i. 75
Barley Pudding i. 78
Bass i. 83
Batter Pudding i. 86
Batter Pudding with Marmalade
i. 86
Cottage Soup ii. 480
Soup ii. 480
Bakehouse i. 66
Bakestone Cakes i. 228
Bakewell Pudding 7. 66
with Almonds i. 67
Baking i. 67
Dish i. 67
Powders i. 68
Sheet i. 67
Baklava i. 68
Ballachonny i. 68
Balloon or Prussian Cakes i. 228
Pudding ii. 253
Ballottines i. 69
Balls i. 69
Cocoa-nut i. 408
Ball-Suppers and Refreshments
i. 68
Balmoral Cakes i. 229
Balorine i. 70
Russian i. 70
Baltimore Butter Pie i. 70
Bamboo i. 7 0
Pickle i. 70
Salad 7.70
Banana Cream Ice i. 7 1
Cream Pie i. 7 1
Fritters 7.71
Pie 7. 7 1
Syrup 7. 7 1
Bananas 7. 70
Baked 7.70
Compote of 7. 7 1
Banbury Cakes 7. 7 1
Mincemeat 7. 7 1
Bandes 7. 72
Bank-Holiday Pudding 77. 253
Bannocks 7. 72
Banquets 7. 72
Bar 7. 74
Boiled in Court Bouillon 7. 74
Baraquille 7. 74
Barbarie, a la 7. 74
Barbecue 7. 74
Barbe de Capucine 7. 74
Barbel 7. 74
Baked 7. 75
Baked in Spanish style 7. 75
Baked, served with Parmesan Cheese
7. 75
Boiled in Court Bouillion 7. 75
Broiled a la Maitre d'Hotel 7. 75
Barbel, Eel and, Matelot of 7. 75
Roasted 7. 7 5
Stewed 7. 75
Barbera 7. 7 5
Barberries 7. 7 6
Bottled 7. 77
Compote of 7. 77
Pickled 7. 77
Preserved 7. 77
Barberry Cream 7. 76
Drops 7. 76
Jam 7. 7 6
Jelly 7.76
Jelly with Apples 7. 76
Ketchup 7. 77
Marmalade 7. 77
Preserved, Pulp 7. 77
Syrup 7. 77
Tart 7. 77
Water-ice 7.77
Barcelonnettes 7. 78
Barding 7. 78
Barford Pudding 77. 253
Barigoule, a la 7.78
Barley 7. 7 8
Beverage 7. 78
Broth 7.78
Cream 7.78
Cream Soup 7. 79
Fritters 7. 79
Gruel 7. 79
Meal Scones 7.79
Milk 7.79
Negus 7. 79
Pearl 7. 78
Pudding, Baked 7.78
Purde 7.79
Scotch 7. 78
Soup 7.79
Stew 7. 80
Water 7. 80
Water for Coughs 7. 80
Wine 7. 8]
Barley Sugar 7. 80
Australiafi 7. 83
Cream 7. 80
Drops 7. 81
Vanilla 77. 676
Vanilla-flavoured 7. 81
Barolo 7. 8 1
Baron of Beef 7. 8 1
Roasted 7. 122
Baronet’s Punch 77. 27 3
Barquette 7. 81
Barrel 7. 81
Barsac 7. 81
Barszcz 7. 81
Bartavelles 7. 81
Basil, Sweet 7. 81
Vinegar 7. 81
Basin 7. 82 »
Baskets 7. 82
Basmuttee 7. 82
Bass 7. 82
a la Chambord 7. 83
Baked 7. 83
Baked, a la Bordelaise 7. 83
Boiled 7. 84
Broiled 7. 84
Dressed en Casserole 7. 83
Fried Black 7. 84
Fried with Bacon 7. 84
Stewed Stuffed, with Mushroom
Sauce 7. 84
Basting 7. 84
Batter for 7. 86
Batch 7. 84
Bateliere Sauce 77. 385
Bath Buns 7. 84
Bath Cake 7. 229
Chaps 7. 85
Cheese 7. 343
Oliver Biscuits 7. 140
Pipe 7. 85
Pudding 77. 253
Sausages 77. 404
Batons 7. 85
de Jacob 7. 85
Milanese 7. 85
Batter 7. 85
Bread 7. 86
Cakes 7. 86
Cakes with Bread 7. 86
Cakes with Rice 7. 86
Cakes with Yeast and without Eggs
7. 86
Cream Soup 7. 86
Flannel Cakes 7. 86
for Basting 7. 86
for Fritters 7. 86
for Frying 7. 87
for Frying Sweet Things 7. 87
for Frying Vegetables 7. 87
Gratinated 7. 87
Rolls 7.87
Schwarn 7. 87
Batter Pudding (small) 7. 87
Baked 7. 86
Boiled 7. 86, 87
Batuinia or Batvina 7. 87
Batvina or Batuinia 7. 87
Bavarian Beer 7. 87
Cream 7. 9
Creams 7. 87
Sauce 77. 385
Bavaroises 7. 88
Bavaroise, Almond 7. 9
Fruit, with Cream 7. 88
of Apples a la St. Albans 7. 37
of Apricots 7. 44
Bavette d’Aloyau 7. 88
Baveux 7. 88
Bay-leaf Flavouring 7. 88
Bay-leaves 7. 88
Bayonnaise 7. SS
Beache-de-Mer 7. 88
Beans 7. 88
Black 7. 88
Broad 7. 89
French or Kidney 7. 89
French, Pickled 7. 91
Haricot 7. 91
Lima or Butter 7. 94
Mixed, Panaches 7. 91
Bear 7. 94
Bearnaise 7. 94
Sauce 77. 385
Bear’s Paws 7. 94
Beastings or Biestings 7. 1 35
Beatilles 7. 94
Beaufort Pudding 77. 253
Punch 77. 273
Beaulieu Cakes 7. 229
Puddings 77. 253
Beauvilliers Cake 7. 94, 229
Bechamel 7. 94
Brown Sauce 77. 385
Sauce 77. 386
Bedagosa 7. 94
Beef 7. 94
a la Cuiller 7. 100
a la Daube 7. 100
a la Franjaise 7. 100
a la Mode 7. 96
a la Mode, Soup 7. 98
a la Ndapolitaine 7. 101
a la Vinaigrette 7. 106
Baked Red Round of 7. 99
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
829
Beef, Baron of 7. 81
Baron of, Roasted 7. 122
Boiled 7. 106
Boiled Brisket of, Sauce for 77. 395
Boiled Rump of 7. 107
Boiled Salted Aitchbone of i. 107
Boiled Salted Roll of i. 107
Boiled Salted Round of i. 107
Boiled Silverside of i. 108
Boiled Tom Thumb Rib of Pickled
i. 108
Bones Broiled i. Ill
Bouilli i. 99
Braised i. 10
Braised, a la Bignonne i. 108
Braised, a la Flamande 7. 10S
Braised, a la Mode i. 108
Braised, a la Providence i. 108
Braised, a la Russe i. 109
Braised, a l’Orsini i. 108
Braised Brisket of, in Flemish style
i. 109
Braised Chump of i. 1 09
Braised, en Dauhe i. 108
Braised Larded Rump of 7.
Braised Ribs of i. 108
Braised Ribs of, with Macaroni
i. 109
Braised Roll of, a la Minton i. 110
Braised Roll of, with N ouilles i. 110
Braised Rump of 7. 110
Braised Sirloin of i. 110
Brasciolettes i. 99
Breslau of i. Ill
Brisket of, a la Roy ale i. Ill
Brisket of, Baked i. 98
Broth with Vermicelli 7.99
Cakes i. 99
Cakes Broiled 7.111
Cannelon of 7. 112
Celery Bouillon, and 7. 99
Chateaubriand of 7. 113
Cheese, Spiced 7. 127
Cold Boiled, au Gratin 7. 113
Cold Boiled, Plain-warmed 7. 113
Cold Boiled, warmed and served
with Italian Sauce 7. 113
Cold Boiled, warmed with Bacon
and Potatoes 7.113
Cold Boiled, warmed with Tomato
Sauce 7. 113
Cold Stewed Rihs of, with Aspic
Jelly 7.113
Collared 7. 113
Cooked in German style 7. 100
Cooked in Parisian stjde 7. 101
Cooked in Prussian style 7. 102
Corned 7. 113
Corned, as cooked in America 7. 114
Corned Round of, Plain boiled
7. 114
Croquettes 7.99,117
Curing, for Drying 7.114
Curried 7. 114
Curried, Forcemeat Balls 7. 114
Cutlets 7. 100
Devilled 7.114
Doopiaja 7. 100
Dutch 7.114
Essence of 7.115
Fillet of 7. 115
Fillet of, a la Broche 7. 115
Fillet of, a la Chateaubriand 7. 115
Fillet of, a la Gouffb 7. 116
Fillet of, a la Mirabeau 7. 116
Fillet of, a la Hollandaise 7. 116
Fillet of, Baked with Truffles 7. 9S
Fillet of, Boiled, with Poached Eggs
7. 107
Beef, Fillet of. Broiled 7.111
Fillet of, in Aspic 7. 115
Fillet of, in Continental style
7. 116
Fillet of, in Jelly 7. 116
Fillet of, in Flemish style 7. 1 16
Fillet of, in Neapolitan style 7.116
Fillet of, Larded and Baked 7. 98
Fillet of, Roasted 7. 123
Fillet of, to resemble Roasted Hare
7. 125
Fillet of, with Bdarnaise Sauce
7. 115
Fillet of, with Macaroni 7. 116
Forcemeat 7.116
Fork 7. 97
Fricandeau 7.117
Fricassee 7. 117
Frizzled 7. 118
Galantine 7.118
Gobbets or Mouthfuls 7. 100
Grenadines 7. 100
Hams 7. 101
Hashed 7. 118
Hashed Boiled 7.118
Hashed Corned 7. 118
Hung 7. 119
Hungarian 7. 1 1 9
Jelly 7. 101
Jelly Broth with Vermicelli 7. 101
Macaronied 7.119
Macedoine of 7.119
Marinade for 7.911
Minced 7.119
Minced, a la Portugaise 7. 120
Minced, a l’Espagnole 7. 120
Minced, with Poached Eggs 7. 1 20
Miroton of 7. 120
Noix of, with Meat Jelly 7. 120
Olives 7. 101
Patties 7. 102
Pie 7. 102
Pie made with Stewed Shin 7. 102
Pilau of 7. 102, 121
Pot-au-Feu 7. 102
Pot-Pie 7. 102
Potted 7. 121
Potted, with Venison Flavour
7. 131
Pressed 7. 121
Pudding 7. 102
Purde Soup 7.103
Raised Pie 7. 103
Ribs of, Baked 7. 99
Rissoles 7. 103
Rissolettes 7. 103
Roasted 7. 122
Roasted Ribs of 7. 123
Roasted Rolled Ribs of 7. 124
Roasted Rump of 7. 124
Roasted Sirloin of 7. 124
Rolled 7. 124
Rolled Flank of 7. 125
Rolls or Paupiettes 7.103
Roulade of 7. 125
Roulette 7. 103
Round of 7. 97
Rump of 7. 97
Rump of, a la Portugaise 7. 125
Salad 7. 104
Salad of Cold Boiled 7. 125
Salted 7. 125
Sausages 7. 104
Scalloped 7. 126
Shin of, Soup 7. 126
Sirloin 77. 452
Smoked 7. 126
Smoked Hamburg 7. 126
Smoked, Omelet 7. 126
Beef, Smothered or Pot- Roasted 7. 126
Soup 7. 104
Soup a l’Anglaise 7. 104
Soup a l'Ecossaise 7. 104
Spiced 7. 126
. Spiced Round of 7. 127
Stewed 7. 127
Stewed Cabbage and Tinned 7. 223
Stewed Silverside of 7. 128
Tea 7. 96, 105
To Carve 7. 308
Tough, made tender 7. 129
Tournedos of 7. 129
Vol au-Vent of, Tendons 7. 129
Beef Collops 7. 99
Savoury Minced 7. 126
with Piquante Sauce 7. 99
Beef steak, Broiled, 7. Ill
Broiled Loin 7. Ill
Carpet-bag 7. 104
Fried, Minced 7. 117
Kidney and, Pudding 7. 104
Minced 7. 120
Pie 7. 104
Pie with Oysters 7. 101
Pot 7. 105
Pudding 7. 105
Pudding with Oysters 7. 105
Rolled 7. 124
Spanish 7. 105
Stewed 7. 128
Stewed with Oysters 7. 128
Tough, cooked tender in Gravy
7. 129
with Anchovy Butter 7. 104
Beer 7. 129
African 7. 4
American 7. 16
Australian 7. 59
Bavarian 7. 87
Beetroot 7. 131
Belgian 7. 132
Birch 7. 136
Biscuits for 7. 140
Candle 7. 130
Coffee 7. 422
Corn 7.776
Cuyte 7.511
French 7. 646
Ginger 7. 677
Gratzer 7.712
Herb 7.759
Hop 7.770
Horehound 7.770
Lager 7. 804
Lambie 7. 825
Lemon 7. 837
Louvain 7. 882
made with Tar 7. 130
Mangold-wurzel 7. 908
Mint 7. 945
Molasses 7. 946
Nettle 77. 4
Potato 77. 230
Schenk 77. 410
Soup for Cold Weather 7. 130
Soup, German 7. 130
Soup with Bread 7. 130
Soup with Cream 7. 130
Spruce 77. 508
Treacle 77.612
Vienna 77.745
Weiss 77.7 63
Beetroots 7. 131
a la Poitevine 7. 131
Baked 7. 131
Beer 7. 131
Boiled 7. 132
Fritters 7. 131
830
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY .
Beetroots in Butter Sauce 7. 131
Leaves, boiled 7. 132
Macerated 7. 132
Pickled 7. 132
Pie 7. 131
Salad 7. 131
Saut6s a la Creme 7. 132 •
Sautes in Butter 7. 132
with Cream i. 131
Beignet 7. 132
Orange ii. 34
Belgian Beer 7. 132
Puree 7. 132, 207
Bencoolen Tea 7. 132
Benedictine 7. 132
Bengal Canapes 7. 280
Beni 7. 132
Benzoin 7. 132
Bequet 7. 132
Bergamot 7. 133
Water-ice 7. 133
Ber anno 7. 133
Berlingot 7. 133
Berlin Sauce ii. 386
Berzille i. 133
Bdsis i. 133
Beverages i. 133
Barley i. 7 8
Cider i. 133
German i. 134
Mead i. 133
Metheglin i. 133
Perry i. 133
Persian 7. 134
Spanish i. 134
Bexhill Cheese i. 343
Bey rout Sauce ii. 386
Bezin i. 135
Bliahjees i. 135
Biestings, or Beastings i. 135, 938
Bitiins i. 135
Bigarade i. 135
Sauce ii. 31
Bigarre i. 135
Bigarreau Cherries i. 355
Bigos i. 135
Bilberries i. 135
Bilberry, Boiled, Pudding i. 135
Cake i. 135
Fried, Cakes 7.135
Pie i. 135
Tartlets i. 135
Wine i. 135
Bills of Fare i. 136
Birch Beer i. 136
Bird’s-Nest Pudding ii. 253
Soup i. 136
Birds, Reed ii. 316
Biscosclia i. 136
Biscottes i. 136
Brussels i. 136
Biscotins i. 136
Biscottini i. 136
Polish i. 136
Russian i. 136
Victoria i. 136
Biscuit-bag i. 139
Biscuit Boxes i. 139
Break i 137
Cakes i. 141
Crimping-board i. 140
Cutters i. 139
Docker i. 138
Forcer i. 139
Jelly i. 141
Powder i. 141
Pudding i. 141
Roller i. 137
Biscuits i. 136
Biscuits, Abernethy i. 140
Almond i. 10
Almond Bird’s-nest i. 10
Almond Carrot and Turnip i. 1 0
Almond Rock i. 13
Almond-sandwich i. 13
Almond Sponge i. 14
Almond Walnut i. 14
American i. 140
American Beaten or Maryland
i. 140
Anchovy i. 19
Apricot i. 40
Arrowroot i. 45
Bath Oliver i. 140
Bread i. 187
Brighton i. 141
Brown Bread i. 191
Butter i. 217
Buttered i. 141
Butter-milk 7.218
Captains’ 7. 141
Caraway 7. 291
Champagne 7. 141
Charcoal 7. 336
Cheese 7. 347
Chesterfield 7. 141
Chocolate 7. 374
Cinnamon Drop 7. 391
Clover Drop 7. 400
Cocoa-nut 7. 408
Coffee, for 7. 141
Common 7. 141
Cornucopia 7. 445
Cracknels 7 454
Cream 7. 463
Date-shaped 7. 141
Digestive 7. 141
Drop 7. 142
Dutch 7. 142
Edinburgh 7. 142
“Excellent” 7.142
Filbert 7. 584
for Beer 7. 140
Frozen 7. 142
Geneva 7. 142
German 7. 142
Ginger 7. 678
Ground Rice 77. 324
Hermit 7. 142
Honey 7. 7 69
Honeycomb 7. 142
Iced 7. 142
Imitation Fruit 7. 143
Imperial 7. 143
Kent 7. 143
Lady’s Fingers 7. 143
Lemon 7. 837
Lemon -flavoured 7. 143
Light 7. 144
Luncheon 7. 144
Macaroon 7. 893
Madrid 7. 144
Magnum Bonum 7. 144
Marseillaise 7. 144
Milk 7. 939
Naples 7. 144
Nonpareil 7. 144
Nursery 7. 144
Oatmeal 77. 14
Orange 77. 34
Orange-flower 77. 48
Oswego 77. 52
Patience 7. 144
Penelope 7. 145
Peruvian 7. 145
Petits, Ambrosiens 7. 145
Pistachio 7. 200
Plain 7. 145
Biscuits, Plum-shaped 7. 145
Potato 77. 230
Princess 7. 145
Raspberry 77. 306
Rheims 7. 145
Rheims, with Cream and Kirschen
wasser 7. 145
Rolled 7. 145
Rout 7. 146
Royal 7. 146
Savoury, a la Melton 7. 146
Savoy 7. 146
Shell 7. 146
Ship or Sea 7. 146
Shrewsbury 7. 146
Snowdrop 7. 146
Soda 7. 146
Soda and Cream of Tartar 77. 463
Sour Milk 7. 942
Sponge 7. 147
Sugar 7. 147
Sweet 7. 147
Tangerine- Orange 77. 47
Tea 7. 147
Thick 7. 147
Tortoni 7. 1 47
True-lovers’ Knots 7. 147
Turkish 7. 147
Unleavened 7. 147
Vanilla 77.676
Venice 7. 147
Victoria 7. 147
Wafer 7. 147
Walnut 7. 147
Walnut and Jam 77. 757
Washington 7. 148
Wheat-meal 77. 7 64
White 7. 148,
Whole- Wheat 77.765
Wine 7. 148, 77. 788
Wine Finger 77. 788
with Maraschino Icing 7. 909
York 7. 148
Bishop 7. 148
Heidelberg 7. 148
Bishop’s Pudding 77. 254
Bisk 7. 148
of Fresh- water Crayfish 7. 149
Lobster 7. 149
Prawns 7. 149
Bismarcks 7. 149
Bitters 7. 149
African 7. 4
Amazon 7. 150
Angostura 7. 23
Aromatic 7. 150
Brandy 7. 176
Cognac 7. 177
for Liqueurs 7. 150
Hamburg 7. 150
Koosh 7. 795
Nonpareil 7. 150
Orange 77. 34
Peruvian 7. 150
Spanish 7. 150
Swizzle 7. 150
Wormwood 7. 150
Black Bass Fried 7. 84
Black Beans 7. 88
Boiled 7. 89
Soup 7. 89
Blackberries 7. 1 50
Pickled 7.153
Blackberry or American Down East
Pudding 7. 151
Brandy 7. 150
Cordial 7. 151
Dessert 7. 151
Imitation, Brandy 7. 153
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
831
Blackberry Jam 7. 151
Jam, with Apples 7. 151
Jelly i. 151
Meringue 7. 152
Pie 7. 152
Pudding 7. 152
Shape 7. 152
Shortcake 7. 152
Syrup 7. 152
Tartlets 7. 152
Tarts 7. 152
Wine i. 152
Wine with Plums 7. 152
Blackbirds i. 153
Pip i 1
Black Bread 7. 180
,Brown Butter, or *1216
Butter 7. 218
Cake 7. 229
Coffee 7. 421
Jacks 7. 154
Sauce 7. 217
Blackcap Pudding ii. 254
Blackcock 7. 153
Roasted 7. 153
Stewed 7. 153
To Truss a 7. 153
Black-Currant Cordial 7. 495
Cream Ice 7. 495
Drink 7. 496
Drops 7. 496
Fool 7. 496
Gin 7. 496
Jam 7. 496
Jelly 7. 496
Jelly Sauce 7. 496
Jujubes 7. 496
Liqueur 7. 496
Lozenges 7. 496
Paste 7. 496
Pastille Drops 7. 496
Preserve with Arrowroot Drink
7. 46
Ratafia Liqueur 7. 497
Rhubarb Jam, and 7. 497
Vinegar 7. 497
Water-ice 7. 497 1
Wine 7. 497
Black Currants 7. 495
Bottled 7. 497
Preserved Pulp of 7. 497
Black Diver 7. 153
Salmis of 7. 154
with Chocolate Sauce 7. 154
Blackfish 7. 154
Fried 7. 154
Stewed 7 154
Black Forest Sausages 77. 404
Black Puddings i. 154
French i. 154
German i. 155
Blanc i. 155
for Vegetables in General i. 155
Blanched Cabbage i. 220
Blanching i. 155
Blancmange i. 155
a la Delmonico i. 156
Carrageen i. 302
Chocolate i. 374
Citron i. 393
Cocoa i. 407
Coffee i. 422
Cornflour i. 440
Curd i. 493
Dutch i. 157
Florador i. 598
Ground Rice ii. 324
Hominy i. 767
Lemon i. 838
Blanc mange, Parisian i. 157
Parisian style i. 156
Powders i. 1 57
Quince ii. 283
Raspberry ii. 306
Ratafia ii. 315
Ribbon i. 157
Russian style i. 156
Spanish i. 157
Strawberry ii. 518
Blancmanger, Almond i. 10
Arrowroot i. 46
Blanquette i. 157
Sauce ii. 386
Veal, of ii. 683
Bleak i. 157
Blighni i. 157
Blinis i. 157
Bloater Fillets i. 157
Paste 7. 157
Bloaters 7. 157
a la Sefton i. 158
Broiled 7. 158
Pickled i. 158
Toasted i. 158
Blond i. 158
de Veau, or Veal Stock ii. 722
Blonde Sauce ii. 386
Blood, Liaison of i. 861
Blue Colouring i. 427
Bluefish i. 158
Baked i. 158
Baked a la Venetienne f.158
Baked a lTtalienne i. 158
Stuffed and Baked i. 158
Boal or Bual i. 208
Boar i. 159
Cutlets of Wild i. 159
Fillets of Wild i. 160
Haunch of, a la Royale i. 161
Boar’s Head, Dressed i. 159
Galantine of i. 160
Sauce for ii. 395
Smoked i. 161
with Rosemary i. 383
Bobotee i. 162
Bohea i. 162
Bohemia Salad ii. 356
Boiled Apple Dumplings i. 29
Asparagus i. 53
Bacon i. 64
Bacon and Cabbage i. 65
Bass i. 84
Batter Pudding i. 86, 87
Beef i. 106
Beef, Hashed i. 118
Beetroots i. 132
Black Beans i. 89
Jerusalem Artichokes i. 51
Jerusalem Artichokes with White
Sauce i. 51
Pork and Haricot Beans i. 92
Boilers i. 162
Boiling i. 162
Bologna i. 165
Sausage i. 1 66, ii. 405
Bomb i. 166
Bonrbarde i. 166
Bombay Pudding ii. 254
Bombe, Apricot, with Maraschino
i. 40
Bombonnieres i. 166
Bonbons i. 166
Candied Liqueur i. 166
Caramel i. 289
Chocolate i. 374
Lemon i. 838
Lemon and Maraschino Cream i.
845
Bonbons, Punch Cream ii. 275
Spanish Nuts ii. 496
Bondons i. 166
Bones i. 166
Broiled Beef i. Ill
Devilled i. 167
for Soup i. 166
Boning i. 167
Fish i. 167
Knife i. 167
Leg of Mutton i. 167
Poultry i. 167
Ribs of Beef i. ] 68
Bonnes Bouches i. 168
a la Parisienne i. 168
Apricot i. 40
Artichokes, of i. 49
Chickens with Truffles, of i. 168
Oysters, of i. 168
Bonnefeadas Cakes i. 229
Bonne Femme Soup ii. 480
Bonnet Cakes i. 229
de Turquie i. 168
Borage i. 168
Bordeaux i. 168
Cake i. 229
Sauce 77.386
Bordelaise, a la 7. 168
Border of Aspic Jelly 7. 55
j Borders i. 168
Bosh Butter 7. 168
Boston Chips 77. 535
Pudding 77. 254
Bottled Apricots 7. 44
Barberries 7. 77
Halves of Apricots 7. 44
Sauces 77. 401
Bottles 7. 168
Cement for Sealing Corks of 7. 169
Bottling 7. 168
Gum for Adhesive Labels 7 169
Wax for 7. 169
Bouclifies 7. 169
a l’Astor 7. 169
a la Patissiere 7. 170
a la Reine 7.170
de Dames 7. 170
Salmon 77. 367
Sardines of 77. 379
Sweet 7. 171
with Game Puree 7. 170
with Oranges 7. 170
with Peaches 7.170
Bouchere, a la 7. 171
Boudinade 7. 171
Boudinettes, Cold Meat 7. 922
Boudins 7. 171
Cold Meat 7. 922
Bouff 7. 171
Bouillabaisse 7. 17 1
Bouillie 7. 173
Beef 7. 99
Bouillon 7. 173
Beef and Celery 7. 99
Blanc 7. 205
Boule a Riz 7. 173
Boulettes 7. 173
Bouquet Garni 7. 173
Salad 77. 356
Bourani 7. 173
Bourbon Cocktail 7.405
Punch 77. 273
Bourgeoise, a la 7. 173
Sauce 77. 3 8 6
Bourgnignon 7. 173
Boutargue 7. 173
Salad 7. 173
with oil 7. 173
Bovaline 7. 173
832
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Bovril i. 173
Bowdoin Pudding and Pumpkin Pie
ii. 254
Bracheto i. 173
Brain Cakes i. 173
Croquettes i. 173
Cutlets i. 173
Fritters i. 173
Brains i. 173
Calfs’ i. 265
Forcemeat of i. 174
Fried i. 174
Lambs’ i. 817
Ox ii. 53
Scrambled in Patties i. 174
Sheep’s ii. 436
Stewed i. 174
Tongue and, au Gratin i. 173
Braised Beef i. 108
a la Bignonne i. 108
a la Flamande i. 108
a la Morle i. 108
a l’Orsini i. 108
a la Providence i. 1 08
a la Russe i. 109
en Daube i. 108
Braised Brisket of Beef in Flemish style
i. 109
Chump of Beef i. 1 09
Larded Fillet of Beef, Garnished
with Tomatoes i. 109
Larded Rump of Beef i. 109
Ribs of Beef i. 109
Ribs of Beef with Macaroni i. 109
Roll of Beef a la Minton i. 110
Roll of Beef with Nouilles i. 110
Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere
i. 110
Rump of Beef in Parisian style
i. 110
Rump of Beef i. 110
Rump Steak i. 110
Sirloin of Beef i. 110
Braising i. 174
Bran i. 175
Tea i. 175
Brancino i. 175
Brandade i. 175
Brandied Cherries i. 355
Quinces ii. 282
Brandy i. 176
Apple i. 26
Apricot i. 40
Balls ii. 535
Bitters i. 176
Blackberry i. 150
Butter i. 176
Butter Sauce for Sweets i. 176
Cape i. 282
Champagne i. 333
Cinnamon i. 390
Cocktail i. 405
Cordial i. 176
Cream i. 176
Dantzic i. 177
Elderberry i. 570
Flavourings i. 176
Ginger i. 67 8
Gruel i. 176
Imitation i. 177
Jelly i. 176
Lemon i. 838
Orange ii. 34
Peach ii. 133
Peppermint ii. 147
Pineapple ii. 192
Plum ii. 207
Pudding with Brandy Sauce ii.
254
Brandy, Raspberry ii. 306
Rochelle ii. 342
S auce i. 177
Shrub i. 177
Snaps i. 177
Brasciolettes Beef i. 99
Brasilia i. 177
Brawn i. 177
in Jelly i. 178
Mock i. 178
Sc-rappel or American i. 178
Sussex i. 178
Yorkshire i. 178
Brazil Nuts i. 178
Bread i. 178
Adulterated i. 3
Aerated i. 179
Almond i. 10
American i. 180
American Premium i. 180
American Thirded i. 180
and Butter Pudding, Baked i. 187
and Marrow Pudding i. 188
Angels’ i. 22, 227
Aniseed i. 23
Apple i. 26
Apricot i. 42
Batter i. 86
Batter Cakes with i. 86
Biscuits i. 1 87
Black i. 180
Brandy Cakes i. 187
Butter-milk i. 181
Cake i. 187
Cheese-cakes i. 187
Corn i. 181
Cornflour Sponge i. 181
Cream Ice i. 187
Croustades a la Reine i. 187
Croustades tilled with Stewed
Fruit i. 188
Croustades for Savouries i. 187
Croustades for Stewed Fruit i. 187
Crouton of Fried i. 191
Croutons a la Condd for Soup
i. 188
Croutons for Entries i. 188
Croutons for Entremets i. 188
Croutons for Garnishing i. 188
Croutons for Soup i. 188
Croutons with Compote of Fruits
i. 188
Devilled for Breakfast i. 191
Diabetic i. 181
Dietetic i. 181
Dyspepsia Bread i. 181
Egg i. 181
Egg and Cornflour i. 181
Egged i. 555
Fancy i. 577
Fried i. 192
Fritters i. 188
Fritters with Fruit i. 188
Fruit i. 192
Gluten i. 181
Graham-flour i. 182
Henrietta i. 182
Household i. 182
Jelly i. 1 88
Lapland i. 182
Light i. 1 82
Lunch i. 182
made with Potatoes i. 181
Matso i. 182
Milk i. 182
Omelet i. 188
Panada i. 188
Panada with Milk i. 189
Patties i. 189
Bread, Potato i. 183
and Suet Dumplings i. 190
or Toast Jelly i. 190
Pulled i. 192
Pumpkin i. 183
Queen’s i. J83
Rice i. 1 83
Rye i. 183
Salad i. 189
Sauce i. 189
Scotch i. 183
Soda i. 183
Soup i. 190
Sticks i. 190
Sweet Potato i. 183
Togus i. 183
Turnip i. 183
Unleavened ii. 674
Water i. 183
Whole-meal i. 184
Breadcrumb Panada i. 190
Pie i. 190
Pudding i. 1 90
Breadcrumbs i. 1 90
and Raspings i. 190
Fried i. 192
Bread Pudding, Baden-Baden i. 186
Baked i. 189
Boiled i. 189
Savoury i. 192
Served with Fruit Sauce i. 189
with Cream Sauce i. 189
Breakfast Cakes i. 229
Coffee i. 420
or Tea Rolls i. 186
Breakfasts i. 193
Bream i. 193
Broiled i. 193
Broiled with Shallot Sauce i. 193
Roasted i. 194
Soused i. 194
Breast of Mutton Boiled i. 97 1
Brasil i. 194
Breslau of Beef i. Ill
Bretonne, a la i.T94
Sauce ii. 386
Brewing i. 194
Brickbat Cheese i. 343
Brick Tea i. 194
Bridage i. 194
Bride Cakes i. 194
Brie Cheese i. 195, 343
Brighton Biscuits i. 141
Cakes i. 230
Brill i. 195
a la Conti i. 197
au Gratin i. 197
a la Hollandaise i. 197
a la Ravigote i. 197
a la Saint Mendhould i. 197
Baked i. 195
Boiled i. 196
Boiled, Garnished with Potatoes
and Crayfish i. 196
Boiled in Wine i. 197
Boiled, served in Parisian style
i. 196
Boiled with Anchovy Cream i. 196
Boiled with Bechamel Sauce i. 196
Boiled with Caper Sauce i. 196
Broiled i, 197
Fried i. 197
with Orlys of Whiting i. 197
Brine i. 197
Brioches i. 197
a la Condd i. 199
Buns i. 199
Cheese i. 347
Croutons of i. 199
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
833
Brioches, Fluttes 7. 199
Fried, with Madeira Sauce 7. 199
Ring 7. 199
Small 7. 199
Tea-cake 7. 199
Timbale with Fruit 7. 199
with Madeira Sauce 7. 199
Brisket of Beef a la Royale 7. Ill
Baked 7. 98
Boiled 7. 106
in Flemish style, Braised 7. 109
Pickled 7. 121
Stewed 7. 128
with Peas Pudding 7. 106
Brisse Soup 77. 480
Bristol Cakes 7. 230
British Champagne 7. 332
Punch 77. 273
Wines i. 200
Broad Beans i. 89
and Cream i. 89
Bacon and, Boiled i. 89
Boiled i. 89
Broccoli i. 202
Boiled i. 202
Boiled, served with Buttered Eggs
i. 202
Pickled i. 202
with Parmesan Cheese i. 202
with White Sauce i. 202
Broehan ii. 14
Broclie i. 202
Brochettes i. 202
of Calf’s Brains i. 265
of Candied Fruits and Pastes i. 202
Brodchen i. 202
Broglio i. 203
Broiled Apricots i. 44
Bacon i. 65
Barbel i. 75
Barbel a la Maitre d’Hotel i. 75
Bass i. 84
Beef Bones i. Ill
Beef Cakes i. Ill
Beef steak i. Ill
Double Porterhouse -steak i. Ill
Fillet of Beef i. Ill
Liver and Bacon i. 65
Steak i. 112
Broiling i. 203
Broken Bread Pudding i. 191
Brose i. 230
Athole i. 203
Cadger’s i. 203
Kale 7. 203
Peas i. 203
Scotch i. 203
Scotch Fat 7. 203
Broth i. 203
Barley 7. 78
Beef Jelly, with Vermicelli i. 101
Beef, with Vermicelli i. 99
Calf’s Lights, for Invalids i. 275
Calf's Liver i. 276
Cheap i. 204
Clam-Juice i. 396
Fish i. 590
Fowl i. 617
in an Hour i. 204
in Forty Minutes i. 204
Invalid 7.204
Mai p e i. 204
Mutton i. 984
Nutritive 7.204
Panada 7. 204
Pectoral 7. 204
Rabbit 77. 293
Refreshing 7. 204
Rice 77. 328
Broth, Rich 7. 204
Scotch 7. 205
Scotch Mutton 7. 999
Snail and Frog 77. 459
Stock or First 7. 204
Tapioca 77.567
Tea-kettle 7. 205, 77. 579
Thickened with Eggs 7.204
Tortoise 77.610
Turkish 7. 205
Veal 77.708
Vegetable 7. 205
Welsh 7. 205
White (Bouillon Blanc) 7.205
with Macaroni 7.204
Brouilles 7. 205
Broussa Tea 7. 206
Brousse 7. 206
Brown Betty 7. 206, 77. 68
Black-Bread Pudding, or 7. 191
Butter Sauce 7. 217
Butter Sauce for Croquettes 7. 217
Sauce 77. 387
Brown -Bread, American 7. 180
Biscuits 7. 191
Boston 7. 181
Brewis 7. 191
Cream Ice 7. 191
Ice 7. 191
Pudding 7. 191
Browning 7. 206
Pea Shell, for Soup 77. 127
Brunoise 7. 206
Soup 77. 480
with Rice 7. 206
with Sorrel 7. 206
Brunswick Cakes 7. 230
Salad 77. 35 6
Brussels Biscottes 7. 136
Brussels S prouts 7. 206
a la Maitre d’Hotel 7. 207
Boiled 7. 207
Dressed 7. 207
en Turban with Cucumbers 7. 207
for Garnish 7. 207
Fried in Butter 7. 207
Omelet 7. 207
Sautes 7. 207
Sautes a la Creme 7. 207
Brussoles 7. 208
Bual or Boal 7. 208
Bubble and Squeak 7. 208
Bucellas 7. 208
Buck 7. 208
Buck-Bean 7. 208
Buckwheat 7. 208
Cakes 7. 208
Pancakes 7. 209
Soup in German style 7. 209
Beurre Lie 7. 217
Buffalo 7. 209
Buffet 7. 209
Buff’ Pudding 77. 254
Bugne 7. 209
Buisson 7. 209
Bullace Cheese 7. 209
Pie 7. 209
Eullaces 7. 209
Bullock 7. 209
Bull’s Eyes 77. 535
Bun Pudding 7. 210
Buns 7. 209
Bath 7. 84
Brioche 7. 199
Cheap 7.210
Chelsea 7.210
Chester 7. 210
Christmas 7. 210
Cinnamon 7. 210, ’390
Buns, Cocoa-nut 7. 408
Common German, for wholesale
use 7. 210
Currant 7. 210
Devonshire 7. 210
Enfield 7. 210
Geneva 7. 210
German 7. 210
Ginger 7.678
Ground Rice 77. 324
Guernsey 7. 210
Hanover 7.211
Hot Cross 7.211
Jubilee 7.211
Light Tea 7. 21 1
London 7.211
Madeira 7. 211
Plum 7.211
Rum 7.211
Saffron 7.211
Spanish 7.211
Sweet, without Eggs 7. 212
Buonboeconi 7. 212
Burdwan 7.212
Burgoo 7. 212
Burgundy 7. 213
Burnet 7.213
Burnt Almond Charlotte Russe 7. 14
Burnt Almonds and Orange Ice 7. 14
Burnt Cream 7. 462
Sauce 7. 463
Burnt Onions 77. 25
Burt 7. 213
au Gratin 7. 213
Baked 7. 213
Fried 7. 213
Burtas 7. 213
Bush Tea 7.213
Buseca 7. 213
Bustard 7. 213
Braised 7. 213
in Russian style 7. 213
Roasted 7. 213
Stewed 7.213
Butter 7. 213
Anchovy 7. 19
Apple 7. 26
Biscuits 7. 217
Black 7.218
Black or Brown 7. 216
Bosh 7. 168
Brandy 7. 176
Camp 7. 216
Capsicum 7. 287
Clarified 7. 216
Cream and, Liaison of 7. 861
Creamed 7. 216
Drawn 7.216
Fairy 7. 216
Gascony 7. 216
Green 7. 216
Jack 7.218
Kneaded 7. 216
Liaison of 7. 861
Lima or, Beans 7. 94
Maitre d’Hotel 7.217
Montpellier 7.217
Ornamental, for Table 7. 216
Prepared in Haste 7. 216
Preserved 7.217
Ravigote 7. 217
Removing Salt from 7. 216
Restoring Rancid 7. 216
Rolls for Tea 7.184
Sardine 77. 380
Soup 7.218
Spanish 7. 218
Tarragon 77.571
Thickened 7. 217
3 H
VOL. II.
834
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Butter Beans Dried, Boiled 7. 94
Butter-Churn 7. 214
Buttercup Cakes 7. 230
Buttered Apples 7. 37
Biscuits 7. 141
Butter ine 7. 218
Butter-milk 7. 218
Biscuits 7. 218
Bread 7. 181
Cakes i. 2 1 8
Cream Ice 7. 218
Pudding 7. 218
Butter-nut 7. 218
Butter Sauce 7. 217
Anchovy 7. 19
with Capers 7. 217
with Parsley 7. 217
Butter Scotch 77. 536, 592
Buttery 7. 218
Butyric Acid 7. 218
c
Cabaret 7.218
Cabbages 7. 218
a la Mode 7. 220
American Slaw 7.219
Apples with 7. 220
au Gratin 7. 220
Blanched 7. 220
Boiled 7. 220
Boiled, and Cream 7. 220
Boiled, and Sausages 7. 220
Boiled Bacon and 7. 65, 220
Boiled Savoy 7. 224
Cake 7. 220
Dolmas 7. 222
Fried White 7. 222
Garnishing for 7. 220
Gratinated, with Soup 7. 222
Minced 7. 223
Red 7. 224
Rice and Balls 7. 221
Rice with 7. 221
Salad 7. 221
Soup 7. 221
Soup with Bacon 7. 221
Soup with Rice 7. 222
Sour crout 7. 222
Stewed, and Tinned Beef 7. 223
Stewed, stuffed with Forcemeat
7. 223
Stewed with Milk 7. 222
Stock 7. 225
Stuffed 7. 223
Timbale of 7. 224
White 7. 219
Cabillaud 7.225
Cabrillons 7. 225
Cacao 7. 225
Cachal 7. 225
Caclie-Museau 7. 225
Cacliou Lozenges 7. 883
Cactus Wine 7. 225
Cadger’s Brose 7. 203
Cafe 7. 226
au Lait 7. 420
Mousse au 7. 425
Noir 7.421
Gloria 7. 425
Par fait au 7. 425
Cagnard i\ 226
Caisses 7. 226
Cake
Admiral 7. 227
Almond Savoy 7. 13
Almond Sponge 7. 14
American White 7. 227
Ames 7. 227
Angels’ 7. 22, 228
Anglo-French Stuffed 7. 228
Aniseed 7. 23
Apple 7. 27
Apple Cream 7. 28
Apple Johnny 7. 30
Arrowroot 7. 46
Ash 7. 228
Aurelian 7. 228
Baba 7. 61
Baba, hot 7. 61
Bairn Brack 7. 228
Bath 7. 229
Beauvilliers 7. 94, 229
Bilberry 7. 135
Black 7. 229
Bordeaux 7. 229
Bread 7. 187
Cabbage 7. 220
Capital 7. 23 1
Chantilly 7. 231
Chausson 7. 231
Chocolate 7. 375
Chocolate Layer 7. 377
Christmas 7. 232
Cider 7. 389
Citron 7. 393
Citron Pound 7. 394
Clay 7. 232
Cocoa-nut 7. 408
Cod 7. 415
Coffee 7. 423
Composition 7. 232
Confederate 7. 232
Cornflour Loaf 7. 442
Cornflour Spider 7. 444
Crumpet, with Clotted Cream
7. 484
Currant 7. 503
Cussy 7. 232, 507
Custard 7. 508
Dampf-Nudel 77.11
Dauphin 7. 233
D ’Artois, a la Parisienne 7. 233
D’Artois with Apples 7. 233
Date 7. 517
Delicate 7. 233
Delicious 7. 233
Delille 7. 233
Demon 7. 233
Dover 7. 234
Dream 7. 234
Dripping 7. 328
Dundee 7. 234
Dutch Bolac 7. 234
Egg-powder 7. 559
Elberfield 7.235
Election 7. 235
Elizabeth 7. 235
Family 7. 235
Feather 7. 235
Federal 7. 235
Fig 7. 582
Flame 7.235
Flat 7.235
Florador 7. 598
Frascati 7. 236
French 7. 236
Fruit 7. 653
Genoa 7. 237
German 7. 238
Ginger 7. 678
Gold 7. 238
Cake, Ground Rice 77. 324
Guernsey 7. 239
Hard 7. 239
Harlequin 7. 239
Havre 7.239
Heloise 7. 239
Hickory-nut 7. 765
Hoe 7. 239
Holmcroft 7. 240
Home-made 7. 240
Iced 7. 240
Imitation of a Ham 7. 230
Imitation of a Haunch of Lamb
7. 230
Imitation of a Melon 7. 230
Imperial 7. 240
Irish 7. 240
Josephine 7. 240
Kettle 7. 240
Lady 7. 241
Layer 7. 241
Lead 7. 241
Leaf 7. 241
Lee 7. 241
Leighton 7. 241
Lemon 7. 838
Leopard 7. 241
Light 7. 241
Lightning 7. 242
Loaf 7. 242
Lobster 7. 87 1
Luster 7. 242
Macaroon 7. 894
Madeleine, served with Cream and
Port- wine Sauce 7. 243
Madison 7. 244
Magdalen 7. 244
Maizena 7. 905
Malaprop 7. 244
Manque, with Rum 7. 244
Manx 7. 244
Marble 7. 244
Marsden 77. 696
Mazarin, with Rum 7. 244
Melting, with Sabayon 7. 244
Merry Christmas 7. 245
Mille-Feuilles 7. 245
Modena 7. 245
Molasses 7. 946
Montblanc 7. 245
Montmorency 7. 245
Montrose 7. 245
Mountain 7. 245
Mousseline 7. 246
Muffin 7. 951
Napoleon 7. 246
Neapolitan 7. 246
Nelson 7.246
Norfolk 7. 246
Nouille 77. 8
Nourmahal 7. 247
Nun’s 7. 247
Nut 77. 12
of Cheese 7. 347
One Egg 7. 564
Onion 77. 25
Orange 77. 35
Oswego 77. 52
Parisian 7. 247
Park-street 7. 247
Parson’s 7. 247
Pistachio 77. 200
Plum 77. 207
Pineapple 77. 192
Pithiviers Almond 7. 14
Plain 7. 247
Portuguese 7. 247
Potato 77. 231
Princess Louise 7. 248
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
835
Cake, Prune ii. 249
Railroad 7. 249
Raisin ii. 303
Raspberry ii. 307
Regatta 7. 249
Ribbon i. 249
Rice ii. 250, 328
Rice Manx ii. 332
Richelieu i. 250
Riscasoli i. 250
Risen i. 250
Rodon i. 251
Roll i. 259
Roman i. 251
Rose or Clouded i. 251
Rose- water ii. 347
Roumanian Sweet i. 251
Royal i. 251
Ruggles i. 251
Rusk ii. 351
St. Amand i. 251
St. Honors i. 252
Salmon ii. 367
Sand, with Marmalade i. 253
Savarin i. 253
Savarin, a l’Angiaise i. 254
Savoury i. 254
Savoy i. 254
Savoy, with Oranges i. 254
School i. 255
Shortbread ii. 448
Silver i. 256
Simnel ii. 452
Snowflake i. 257
Souffle, with Punch i. 257
Spanish-Onion ii. 28
Spider i. 258
Spider with Bilberries i. 25S
Sponge ii. 504
Sponge, a , Chantilly i. 260
Sponge (Berwick) i. 259
Sponge (Butter) i. 259
Sponge, with Rum i. 260
Strawberry i. 260
Strewed i. 260
Sultana i. 261, ii. 304
Surprise Cygnet i. 261
Surprise Peacock i. 261
Surprise Pheasant, a la Soyer i. 261
Tipsy i. 262, ii. 591
Treacle ii. 612
Turk’s i. 263
Vanilla ii. 676
Vanilla, a la Cussy i. 676
Veal, or Pain ii. 70S
Velvet i. 263
Venice i. 2 53
Vermicelli ii. 743
Victoria i. 263
Vinegar ii. 747
Walnut ii. 757
Washington i. 284
Water-Melon i. 264
White i. 264
White Citron i. 395
White Mountain i. 264
Wine ii. 788
Yeast ii. 802
Yorkshire Spice i. 264
Cakes i. 226
Aberfrau i. 227
Adelaide i. 3, 227
African i. 227
Albany i. 6, 227
Albert i. 6, 227
Almond i. 10
Almond Albert i. 9
Almond, Icing for i. 12
Apricot i. 40
Cakes, Athole i. 228
Bakestone i. 228
Balloon or Prussian i. 228
Balmoral 7. ,229
Banbury i. 7 1
Batter i. 86
Batter Flannel i. 86
Beaulieu i. 229
Beef i. 99
Biscuits i. 14
Bonnefeadas i. 229
Bonnet i. 229
Brain i. 173
Bread Brandy i. 187
Breakfast i. 229
Bride 7. 1 94
Brighton i. 230
Bristol i. 230
Brunswick i. 230
Buckwheat i. 208
Buttercup i. 230
Butter-milk i. 218
Camp i. 231
Canadian i. 231
Caraway i. 291
Caraway -and-Water i. 292
Cardamom i. 294
Carnival i. 231
Carrot i. 304
Cherry i. 357
Chestnut i. 365
Chestnut Rout i. 368
Chocolate Drop i. 377
Cinnamon i. 390
Cinnamon Star i. 391
Cinnamon Water i. 392
Clabber Batter i. 87
Cocoa-nut and Orange i. 410
Cocoa-nut Pound i. 410
Coffee, for i. 230
Colchester i. 232
Cold Meat i. 922
Condg i. 232
Cornflour i. 440
Cornflour Batter i. 440
Cornflour Breakfast i. 440
Cornflour Cup i. 441
Cornflour Griddle i. 441
Corporation i. 232
Country i. 232
Cream i. 464
Cup i. 232
Curd i. 493
Derby i. 234
Derby Short i. 234
Derwentwater i. 234
Dessert i. 234
Devonshire i. 234
Digestive i. 234
Dimple i. 234
Domino i. 234
Dough i. 525
Drop i. 234
Duchess i. 234
Duchess, a la Patissiere i. 234
Dutch i. 235
Fish i. 590
Flame i. 597
Flannel i. 235
Fried i. 236
Fried Bilberry i. 135
Fried Bread i. 192
Geneva i. 236
Gloucester i. 238
Graham Flour i. 798
Green Corn i. 777
Green Pea Griddle ii. 126
Hazel-nuts 7.757
Heavy i. 239
Cakes, Hermit i. 239
Hoe 7.766
Hominy 7. 7 67
Honey 7.769
Ploney Love 7. 769
Ice 7. 775
Indian 7. 240
Irish Luncheon 7. 240
Italian 7. 240
Jelly 7. 785
“ Johnny ” or Journey 7. 240
Jubilee 7. 240
King Henry’s Shoe Strings 7. 839
Knob 7. 240
Lafayette 7. 241
Lard 7. 828
Little German 7. 242
Lord Mayor’s 7. 242
Louvernaise 7. 242
Love 7. 242
Lunch 7. 242
Macdonald 7. 242
Madeira 7. 242
Madeleine 7. 243
Madeleine a la Printaniere 7. 243
Madeleine, without Butter 7. 243
Manon 7. 244
Marien 7. 244
Meat 7. 920
Meringue 7. 244
Milan 7. 245
Milk 7.939
Milk-and -Honey 7. 939
Musk 7. 965
Mutton 7. 985
New-Year 7. 246
Oatmeal ii. 15
Orange-flower 77. 48
Oyster ii. 74
Parliament 7. 247
Passover 7.247, 77.111
Plum ii. 210
Polish 7. 247
Polka 7. 247
Pop-Over ii. 215
Pound 7. 247
Prussian Breakfast 7. 248
Puff-Paste 77. 121
Queen (or Heart) 7. 248
Quince 77. 283
Ramazan 7. 249
Raspberry Venice 77. 312
Red-currant Jelly 7. 498
Rice Batter 77. 328
Rice Drop 77. 331
Rice Griddle 77. 331
Robert 7. 250
Rock 7. 250
Rout 7. 251
Rye 77. 352
Sago 77. 353
Salsify 77.375
Sand 7. 253
Sausage 77. 407
Scotch 7. 255
Scrap 7. 255
Sea 7. 255
Short 7. 255
Short Paste 77. 122
Shrewsbury 7. 255
Simple 7. 256
Sly 7. 256
Small 7. 256
Snow 7. 256
Snowball 7. 256
Soda 7. 257
Soda Batter 77. 463
Spanish 7. 258
Special 7. 258
3 H 2
836
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Cakes, Spice 77. 490
Sponge 7. 258
Stag- Horn 7. 260
S tutted 7. 261
Stuffed with Cream 7. 236
Stuffed with Jam 7. 231
Sully 7. 261
Swan’s Nest 7. 261
Tartary 7. 262
Taylor 7. 262
Tea 77. 578
Travelling i. 262
Tunbridge i. 262
Turin i. 262
Twelfth ii. 673
Velvet Breakfast i. 263
Vienna i. 263
Water i. 264
Wheat-Hour Batter ii. 7 64
Wheat- meal ii. 7 64
W reath i. 264
Yorkshire i. 264
Yule i. 264
Calalou 7. 265
a l’Orientale i. 265
Calf i. 265
Calf’s Brains i. 265
Boiled a la Poulette i. 265
Boiled with Black or Brown Butter
i. 265
Boiled with Fried Parsley and Black
or Brown Butter Sauce i. 265
Boiled with Ravigote Sauce i. 265
Boiled with Vinaigrette Sauce
i. 265
Brochettes of i. 265
Cromeskies of i. 266
Croquettes of i. 266
en Matelote 7. 266
Fried with Tartar Sauce i. 266
in Scallop Shells i. 266
Sauce for Salad i. 266
Calf’s Chitterlings i. 266
Calf’s Ears i. 266
a la Financiere i. 267
Boiled i. 266
Bordeaux style i. 267
Fried with Tomato Sauce i. 267
in Marinade i. 267
Stuffed i. 267
with Tomato Sauce i. 267
with Tortue Sauce i. 267
with Truffles i. 267
with Villeroy Sauce i. 267
Calf’s Feet i. 268
as Mock Terrapin 7. 269
Boiled i. 268
Boiled, with Piquant Sauce i. 268
Boiled, with Poulette Sauce i. 268
Boiled, with Remoulade Sauce
i. 268
Crepinettes of i. 269
F ricassee of i. 269
Pudding i. 269
Salad i. 269
Calf’s Foot Jelly i. 268
Calf’s Head i. 269
a la Financiere i. 271
a la Luxemborg i. 271
a la Royale i. 27 1
Baked i. 270
Bigarre i. 270
Boiled i. 27 0
Boiled, a la Cavour i. 270
Boiled, with Poulette Sauce i. 270
Boiled, with Vinaigrette Sauce
i. 270
Braised i. 270
Cheese i. 27 1
Calf’s Head, Collared i. 272
Curried, cold i. 272
en Torture i. 272
Fricassee of Cold i. 272
Fried Scallops of 7.272
Hashed i. 272
Pie i. 27 1
Ragout i. 271
Roasted i. 272
Salad i. 27 1
Soup i. 272
Soused i. 273
Stewed i. 273
to Carve i. 309
Calf’s Heart i. 273
Braised i. 273
Calf’s Kidneys i. 273
a la Breton i. 274
Baked i. 274
Broiled ii la Maitre d’Hotel i. 274
Croquettes 7.274
Fried 7. 274
Minced, on Croutons 7. 275
Omelet 7.275
Patties 7. 274
Pudding 7. 274
Soup 7. 274
Stewed in Wine 7. 274
Calf’s Lights Broth for Invalids 7. 275
and Liver, Stewed 7.275
or Lungs 7. 275
Calf's Liver 7.275
ii la Brochette 7. 275
a la Franfaise 7. 276
a la Milanaise 7. 276
a l’ltalienne 7.276
Bacon and, Fricassee 7.277
Bacon and, Fried and served with
Spinach 7. 277
Baked with Onions 7. 275
Balls for Soups 7. 276
Bewitched 7. 275
Braised 7. 275
Broiled with Bacon 7. 275
Broth 7.276
Curried 7. 277
Minced 7.278
Pain or Cake 7. 276
Pain or Cake in Jelly 7. 276
Pudding 7. 27 6
Quenelles 7. 278
Ragout 7. 277
Roasted 7. 278
Rolls 7. 277
Salad 7. 277
Saute ii la Pmvencale 7. 277
Saute with Piquant Sauce 7. 277
Scalloped 7. 278
Scallops of, with Fine Herbs 7. 278
Souffle 7. 277
Stewed 7. 278
Stewed a la Bourgeoise 7. 278
Stewed a l’ltalienne 7. 278
Terrine of, a la Provencale 7. 278
Calf’s Pluck 7. 279
Boiled 7. 279
Roasted 7. 279
Soup 7. 279
Calf’s Tongue 7. 279
Cold, served a la Macedoine 7. 279
Stewed, and Brains 7. 279
Stewed, with Mushroom Sauce
7. 279
Tomato Sauce with 7. 279
Calf’s Udder 7.279
Forcemeat 7. 279
Calia Cold Soup 77. 480
Californian Pudding, Baked 77. 253, 254
Calipash and Cali [ice 7. 279
Calisson 7. 27 9
Callebogus 7.279
Callou 7.279
Caluso 7. 280
Cambridge Pudding 77. 255
Sausages 77. 405
Camembert 7. 280
Cheese 7. 343
Camerani Soup 77. 480
Camp Butter 7.216
Cakes 7. 231
Canadian Cakes 7. 231
Dishes 7. 280
Canapes 7. 280
Anchovy 7. 19
Artichoke Bottoms for 7. 49
Bengal 7. 280
Bombay 7. 280
Madison 7. 280
Tricolour 7. 280
Various Sorts of 7. 280
Candied Almond Paste 7. 12
Bael 7. 66
Fruit or Nuts 7.280
Lemon-peel 7. 836
Liqueur Bonbons 7. 166
Orange-peel 77. 32
Peel 7. 280
Peel Pudding 7. 280
Candy 7. 280, 77. 535
Caraway 7. 292
Cocoa-nut 7. 408
Cream 7. 281, 465
Digestive 7. 281
Lemon 7. 839
Molasses 7. 947
Nut 77. 13
Peppermint 77. 147
Pop -Corn 7.778
Rock 7. 281
Rose 7. 281
Canneloni Soup 77. 480
Cannelons 7. 281
a la Reine 7. 281
Almond Paste 7. 14
Beef 7.112
Garnished with Fruit Jelly or Jam
7. 281
with Cream 7.281
with Preserves 7.281
Canning 7. 282
Cantal Cheese 7. 343
Canvas Back Duck 7. 282
Broiled 7. 282
Roasted 7. 282
Cape Brandy 7. 282
Wines 7. 283
Capercailzie 7. 282
Capers 7. 282
Anchovy and, Sauce 7. 19
Sauce 7. 283
Capillaire 7. 283
Capilotade 7. 284
Capital Cake 7. 231
Capons 7. 284
Boiled 7.285
Boiled Barded, with Mushrooms
7. 284
Boiled, with Rice 7. 285
Boiled, with Rock-salt 7.285
Braised 7. 285
Braised, a la Neapolitaine 7. 286
Braised, with Quenelles and Truffles
7. 286
Braised, with Sweetbreads and
Truffles 7. 286
Pie 7. 286
Roasted 7. 287
Soup 7. 286
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
837
Capons Stewed a la Francaise 7. ‘287
Cappelletti Soup 77. 480
Capri 7. 2S7
Capsicums 7. 287
Butter 7. 287
Essence of 7. 288
Pickled 7. 288
Syrup 7. 287
Tincture of 7. 288
Captains’ Biscuits 7. 141
Caramel 7. 288
Basket filled with Caramel Fruits
7. 289
Bonbons 7. 289
Chocolate 7. 375
Cream 7. 289
Cream Ice 7. 289
Creme Ben verse e 7. 289
Crorpienbouches of Fruits 7. 290
Custard 7. 290
F resting 7. 290
Lemon 7. 839
Mousse 7. 290
Orange 77. 35
Orris-root ii. 51
Philadelphia i. 291
Pudding i. 290
Sauce i. 290
Sponge i. 291
Sweetmeats for i. 291
Syrup i. 291
Tablets, Coffee i. 423
Carapulca i. 291
Caraway i. 29 1
Biscuits i. 291
Cakes i. 291
Candy i. 292
Comfits i. 292
Cordial i. 292
Dragees 7. 292
Essence of i. 293
Liqueur i. 292
Roll i. 184
Sauce i. 292
Soup i. 292
Tincture of i. 293
Water Cakes i. 292
Carbolic Acid 7. 293
Carbon i. 293
Carbonades i. 293
Carbonic-acid Gas i. 293
Cardamoms i. 294
Cakes i. 294
Comfits i. 294
Flavouring i. 294
Tincture i. 294
Cardinal i. 294
Essence i. 294
of Bitter Oranges i. 294
of Pine apple i. 294
of Strawberries i. 294
of Sweet Oranges i. 295
Punch ii. 273
Sauce ii. 387
Cardoons i. 295
a l'Espagnole i. 295
Baked, with Breadcrumbs i. 295
Boiled in Butter i. 295
Boiled in Stock 7. 295
Brown Sauce with i. 295
Cheese with i. 295
en Blanquette it 295
for Garnish i. 296
Fried i. 297
Ox-Marrow with i. 296
Puree i. 297
Stewed i. 297
Veloute Sauce with i. 297
Carlowitz i. 297
Carlsbad Water 7. 3
Carmelite Soup ii. 481
Carmine i. 297
Carnabyn i. 297
Carnival Cakes i. 231
Carob i. 297
Carp i. 297
a la Chambord i. 299
a la Maitresse d’Hotel i. 299
a la Paysanne i. 300
Baked ‘ i. 298
Baked, ii la Mariniere i. 298
Boiled i. 298
Boiled in Beer i. 300
Boucliees of, Soft Roes i. 298
Boudins of, served with Supreme
Sauce i. 302
Braised i. 299
Braised, a la Chef de Cuisine i. 299
Broiled i. 299
Broiled, Stuffed i. 299
Christmas, in Poland i. 300
en Matelote i. 300
F isherman’s i. 300
Forcemeat 7. 300
Forcemeat, a l’Ancienne 7. 300
Fried i. 300
Fried, a 1’Allemande i. 301
Marinade i. 301
Matelote of, and Eel i. 301
Pickled i. 301
Pie i. 300
Roasted 7. 301
Scalloped i. 301
Stewed i. 301
Stewed, a la Roi i. 301
Stewed in Beer i. 300
Carp’s Roes i. 301
Scalloped i. 301
Carrageen i. 302
Blanc mange i. 302
Chocolate i. 302
Water i. 303
Carrier Sauce ii. 387
Carrot Cakes i. 304
Cheese-cakes i. 304
Fritters i. 304
Jam i. 304
Marmalade i. 305
Pie i. 305
Plum Pudding i. 305
Puree i. 305
Puree Soup i. 305
Puree with Rice i. 305
Salad i. 305
Soup i. 305
Carrots i. 303
a la Maitre d’Hotel i. 303
a la Menagere i. 303
a la Nivemaise i. 304
a la Pou let te i. 304
a l’Orleans i. 304
Asparagus and i. 304
Boiled i. 303
Boiled, served with Bacon Sauce
i. 303
Cream with i. 304
Curried i. 306
Fine Herbs with 7. 304
Flemish style, in i. 304
Fried i. 306
Garnish i. 304
Glazed i. 306
Green Peas and 7. 304
Hashed i. 306
Mashed i. 306
Plainly served 7. 306
Preserved i. 306
Sautes a la Creme i. 305
Carrots, Souffle i. 306
Stewed i. 306
Stewed in Sugar and Cream i. 306
Stewed with Sugar 7. 305
Young, Soup i. 306
Carton-Pate i. 306
Carving i. 306
Beef 7. 308
Calf’s Head 7. 309
Fish i. 310
Ham i. 310
Hare i. 311
Heart i. 311
Mutton i. 311
Pork i. 312
Poultry and Game i. 312
Rabbit 7.314
Sucking-pig 7.315
Tongue 7.315
Veal 7. 315
Venison 7. 315
Casein 7.316
Cases, Fried Bread 7. 192
Paste 77. 121
Cashew 7. 316
Casks 7. 316
Cassareep 7. 3 1 6
Cassava 7. 316
Casseroles 7.317
of Mock Sweetbreads with Potato
Border 7. 317
Cassia 7. 317
Candied 7.317
Ratafia 7. 317
Cassile 7. 317
Cassina 7. 317
Cassiri 7. 317
Cassis 7. 317
Cassolette 7. 318
Castelnaudary, of 7. 318
Castle Puddings 77.255
Catawba 7. 318
Syrup 7.318
Catfish 7.318
Chowder 7. 318
Stewed with Tomatoes 7. 318
Caucasian Wines 7.318
Caudle 7. 318
Beer 7. 130
Brown 7. 319
Cauliflower 7. 319
Asparagus and, Salad 7. 320
au Gratin 7. 321
Baked 7. 320
Boiled 7. 320
Boiled, in American style 7. 320
Boiled, with Butter 7. 320
Crayfish with 7. 320
Cream of 7. 322
Cream Sauce with 7. 320
Cream Soup 7. 320
Dressed 7. 322
en Mayonnaise 7. 321
Fried 7.312
F ritters 7. 320
Garnishing, for 7. 321
Gratinated 7. 323
in Batter 7. 320
Parmesan Cheese with 7. 321
Pickled 7. 323
Puree of 7. 323
Salad 7. 322
Sauce 7. 322
Sautes 7. 322
Scalloped 7. 323
Scrambled 7. 323
Soup 7. 322
Spanish Sauce with 7. 322
Tomatoes and 77. 600
838
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Cauliflower, Tomato Sauce with 7. 322
Veloute Sauce with 7. 322
White Sauce with 7. 322
Caviare 7. 323
Canapds of 7. 324
Eggs with 7. 324
Mock 7. 324
on Toast 7. 324
Rolls with Oysters 7. 324
Cayenne and Catechu Lozenges 7. 288
Cheese 7. 288
Drops 7. 288
Essence 7. 28S
Pepper 7. 288
Salt 7. 288
Wine 7. 288
Cecils 7. 324
Celeriac 7. 324
Boiled 7. 325
Pried 7. 325
Puree 7. 325
Stewed 7. 325
Celery 7. 325
au Jus 7. 327
Baked 7. 326
Baked with Cheese 7. 326
Boiled 7. 326
Boiled with Cream 7. 326
Braised i. 326
Cordial 7. 326
Cream of 7. 328
Cream Soup 7. 326
Curling 7. 325
Drink 7. 326
Fried 7. 329
Fritters 7. 326
Frizzled 7. 329
Onion Soup and 7. 327
on Toast 7. 328
Pickled 7. 329
Puree 7. 327
Salad i. 327
Salad with Mayonnaise Dressing
7. 328
Salad with Remoulade Sauce
7. 328
Sauce 7. 328
Saut<i served with Ox-marrow
7. 328
Served in a Glass 7. 325
Soup 7. 328
Stewed i. 329
Vinegar 7. 328
with Cream 7. 326
with Gravy 7. 327
with Gravy a la Tonne Femme
7. 327
with Half-Glaze 7. 327
with Ox-marrow 7. 327
with Spanish Sauce 7. 328
with White Sauce 7. 328
Celestines 7. 329
Cellaring 7. 329
Cellulose 7. 330
Cement for sealing Corks of Bottles or
Jars 7. 169
Centerba 7. 330
Cepes 7. 330
au Gratin 7. 330
en Coquilles 7. 330
for Garnishing 7. 330
Omelet 7. 330
Cervelas 7. 330
Chablis 7. 330
Cup 7. 331
Chach 7.331
Chacoli 7. 331
Chambertin 7. 331
Chamhord 7. 331
C'hamhord, Bass a la 7. 83
Champagne 7. 331
Biscuits 7. 141
Brandy 7. 333
British 7. 332
Cider Cocktail i. 405
Cobbler i. 402
Cocktail i. 405
Cooking i. 332
Cup i. 332
Grand i. 708
Granits with Strawberries, Iced
i. 333
Ice i. 332
Iced i. 331
Iced, and Fruit Jelly i. 333
Jelly i. 332
Jelly hi Glasses i. 333
Mock i. 331
Punch i. 333
Rhubarb ii. 318
Sauce i. 333
Syrup i. 333
Champignons i. 333
Chantarelles i. 334
Cliantausen Sauce ii. 400
Chantilly Basket and Cups i. 334
Cake i. 231
Charlotte i. 336
Cream i. 335
Cliappatee or Indian Hand -Bread
i. 335
Chaps, Bath i. 85
Char i. 335
Potted i. 335
Charcoal i. 335
Biscuits i. 336
Charcuterie i. 336
Chard i. 336
Salad i. 336
Charlottes i. 336
Apple i. 27
Chantilly i. 336
French 7.339
Glace es 7. 336
Italian 7. 339
Mosaic 7. 339
Neapolitan 7. 339
Orange 77. 35
Panache es 7.336
Polish 7. 339
Prussian 7. 339
Westphalian 7. 339
Charlotte Russe 7. 336
a la Chateaubriand 7. 338
. a la Princess Royal 7. 338
Apricot 7. 40
au Cafe 7. 338
Burnt Almond 7. 14
Coffee 7. 423
with Liqueurs 7. 338
with Pine-apple Flavouring 7. 338
with Pistachios 7. 339
Chartreuse 7. 340
Apple 7. 27
Apricot 7. 41
Strawberry 77. 518
Vegetables and Game 7. 340
Chateaubriand 7. 340
Beef 7.113
Sauce 77. 387
Sauce with Fillet of Beef 7. 9S
Chaudeau 7. 340
Sauce 7. 340
Chaudfroids 7. 341
Cliaudron Fritters 7. 266
Roasted 7. 266
Cliaussons 7. 341
Cake 7. 231
Cheap Broth 7. 204
Buns 7.210
Soup 77. 481
Cheats 7. 341
Cheddar Cheese 7. 343
Cheek, Ox 77. 53
Pig’s 77. 168
Clieenesuckur 7. 341
Cheese 7. 341
Aigrettes 7. 347
Apple 7. 27
Apricot 7. 41
Artificial 7. 343
Baked 7. 346
Bath 7. 343
Bexhill 7. 343
Biscuits 7. 347
Boiled 7. 347
Brickbat 7. 343
Brie 7.195, 343
Brioches 7. 347
Bullace 7. 209
Cake 7. 347
Calf’s Head 7. 217
Camembert 7. 280, 343
Canapes a la Journeaux 7. 347
Cant-al 7. 343
Cayenne 7. 2S8
Cheddar 7. 343
Cheshire 7. 343
Chocolate 7. 375
Cottage 7. 343
Cottenliam 7. 344
Cream 7. 344, 348
Cream and Apple 7. 28
Creamed 7. 351
Custard 7. 348
Damson 7. 5 1 3
d’Artois 7. 347
Daventry 7. 344
Derbyshire 7. 344
Dorset 7. 344
Dunlop 7. 344
Dutch 7. 344
Dutch Cream 7. 344
Fingers 7. 348
Fondu 7. 348
Fritters 7. 348
Fritters Souffles 7. 348
Fritters, Turkish 7. 352
Gloucester 7. 344
Golden Buck 7. 351
Gorgonzola 7. 344
Grayere 7. 344
Guava 7. 726
Hoppers 7. 353
Italian Cream 7. 344
Leicester 7. 344
Limburger 7. 344
Lincoln 7. 344
Loaf 7. 345
Marigold 7.911
Marches 7. 345
Medlar 7. 928
Milk 7. 345
Mites 7. 353
Neufchatel 7. 345
New Milk 7. 345
North Wilts 7. 345
Omelet 7. 348
Orange- flower 77. 48
Parmesan 7. 345, 77. 89
Paste, hot 7. 351
Patties 7. 348
Pontgibaud 7. 345
Pont l'Eveque 7. 345
Port du Salut 7. 345
Pot 7. 345
Potted 7. 351
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
839
Cheese, Pounded 7. 352
Pudding 7. 349
Pudding, Baked 7. 347
Puffs or Ramekins 7. 349
Rarebit 7. 346
Raspberry 77. 307
Rhubarb 77. 318
Rice ii. 329
Rice and i. 349
Rice and, stewed i. 352
Roasted i. 352
Rolled ii. 616
Roquefort i. 345
Sage or Green i. 346
Salad i. 349
Sandwich i. 349
Sandwich, Roquefort i. 352
Sc-habzeiger i. 346
Slipcoat i. 346, ii. 456
Snow i. 346
Souffles i. 350
Soup i. 350
Spiced Beef i. 127
Stewed i. 352
Stilton i. 346
Straccliino i. 346
"Strawberry ii. 518
Straws i. 350
“Strohl” i. 352
Talmouses with i. 352
Tao-foo i. 346
Tartlets i. 350
Toasts i. 35 1
Trifles i. 35 1
Vanilla ii. 677
Veal ii. 695, 709
Welsh Rarebit i. 353
Wiltshire i. 346
York i. 346
Cheese-Cakes i. 353
Almond i. 1 1
Apple i. 27
Bread i. 187
Carrot i. 304
Citron i. 393
Cocoa-nut i. 409
Cornflour i. 441
Curd i. 493
Devonshire i. 354
Egg i. 555
Hominy i. 767
Lemon i. 839
Peach ii. 133
Potato ii. 231
Pudding i. 354
Ratafia ii. 315
Rice ii. 329
Welsh i. 354
Chelsea Buns i. 210
Hats ii. 573
Chemise i. 354
Cherries i. 354
Bigarreaus i. 355
Bottled i. 355
Brandied i. 355
Candied i. 355
Compote of i. 363
Dried i. 363
Dukes i. 355
en Chemise i. 357
Essence of i. 363
Glazed i. 363
Glazed, with Caramel i. 358
Morello and Kentish i. 355
Pickled i. 363
Preserved i. 364
Preserved Pulp of Black i. 364
Stewed i. 364
Cherries with Croutons i. 357
Cherryade i. 355
Cherry Bouchees 7. 355
Bounce i. 356
Brandy i. 356
Brandy, Italian i. 363
Bread i. 356
Bread Pudding i. 356
Cakes i. 357
Caramel Tablets i. 357
Cordial i. 357
Cream Ice i. 357
Crusts i. 357
Currant Syrup and i. 357
Custard i. 358
Dish, German, cold i. 363
Flawn i. 358
Fool i. 358
Fritters i. 358
Gateau i. 358
Ice i. 358
Iced Compote i. 358
Jack i. 359
Jam i. 359
Jelly in Mould i. 359
Juice i. 355
Liqueur i. 359
Marmalade i. 359
Marzipan i. 360
Noyau and Cream Bonbons i. 360
Open Tart i. 360
Paste i. 360
Paste Drops i. 360
Pie i. 360
Pie, Canadian i. 355
Pie with Brown Bread i. 360
Pudding i. 361
Pulp for Ices i. 361
Raspberry and, Jam i. 361
Ratafia i. 361
Sauce i. 361
Schmarn i. 361
Soda-water Syrup i. 361
Souffle i. 36 i
Souffle Pudding i. 361
Soup i. 362
Syrup i. 362
Tart i. 362
Tartlets i. 362
Vinegar i. 362
Water i. 363
Water Ice i. 363
Wine i. 363
Wine, Black i. 355
Chervil i. 364
Cheshire Cheese i. 343
Chest, Lozenges for the i. 883
Chester Buns i. 210
Chesterfield Biscuits i. 141
Chestnut Auflauf i. 305
Biscuits i. 365
Bonbons i. 365
Cakes i. 365
Cream i. 366
Cream Ice i. 366
Custard i. 366
Garnish i. 366
Mousse i. 366
Paste i. 367
Pudding i. 367
Pudding with Fruits i. 367
Puree i. 367
Puree Soup i. 367
Purd e with Cream i. 367
Rout Cakes i. 368
Sauce i. 368
Sauce for Turkey i. 368
Shape i. 368
Souffles i. 368
Soup i. 368
Chestnut Stuffing i. 368
Stuffing for Turkey i. 368
Stuffing with Truffles i. 368
Timbale i. 369
Chestnuts i. 364
Boiled i. 365
Candied i. 365
Compote of i. 369
Croquenbouche of i. 369
Croquettes i. 366, 369
Devilled i. 370
Forcemeat of i. 370
Glaces with Caramel i. 366
Glaees with Sugar i. 366
Glazed i. 370
Preserved 7.370
Puree of 7.370
Roasted 7. 37 0
Served as a Vegetable, Boiled 7. 365
Sugared 7. 370
Chianti 7.370
Cliica 7. 370
Chicken Bonnes Benches of, with
Truffles 7. 168
Country Captain 7. 613
Custard 7. 613
Grenade of, Fillets 7. 032
Grilled a la Chasseur 7. 632
Ham and, Sausages 7. 613
Ivory-white i. 632
Olives 7. 613
Pickled 7. 634
Prairie Hen or 77. 243
Puree, Aspic 7. 607
Ragout 7. 613
Salmagundi 7. 636
Vinaigrette of 7. 642
Vol au - Vent 7.642
Chick-Peas 7.370
Boiled 7. 37 1
Soup 7. 37 1
Chicory 7. 371
Chiffonnade 7. 37 1
Soup 7. 372
Children’s Pudding 77. 255
Chilian Wines 7. 372
Chilli Sauce 7. 288
Vinegar 7. 288
Chine 7. 37 2
Chinese Soup 77. 481
Wines 7.372
Chingara, a la 7. 372
Cutlets 7. 372
Chinguirito 7. 372
Chipolata 7. 366, 372
Chips, Jerusalem Artichoke 7. 50
Lemon, and Rings 7. 840
Cliittaeks 7. 37 2
Chitterlings a la Franfaise 7. 372
Chives 7. 372
Sauce 7. 373
Chloride of Sodium 7. 373
Chocolate 7. 373
and Vanilla-cream Bonbons 7. 3S0
Apple Custard 7. 374
Apple (flavoured) 7.374
Bavaroise 7. 374
Biscuits 7. 37 4
Blanc-mange 7. 374
Bonbons 7. 374
Bouchees 7. 375
Cake 7.375
Caramels 7. 37 5
Carrageen 7. 302
Clieese 7. 37 5
Comfits 7.375
Confection 7. 375
Conserve 7.375
Creams 7. 37 5
840
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Chocolate Custard 7. 377
Drops 7. 377
Drop Cakes 7. 377
Frothed 7.380
Ice 7. 377
Iced 7. 380
Icing 7. 377
Kisses 7. 377
Layer Cake 7. 377
Meringues 7. 377
Mousse 7. 377
Mulled 7. 380
Pastilles 7. 377
Pie 7. 378
Pistachios 7. 378
Pudding 7.378
Pudding with Almonds 7. 378
Pulled Candy 7. 378
Roll Pudding 7. 379
Sauce 7. 379
Snaps 7. 379
Souffle 7. 379
Soup 7. 379
Spongeade 7.379
Stamped 7. 380
Sweetmeats 7. 379
Syrup 7. 380
Tablets 7. 380
Tarts 7. 380
Wafers 7. 380
Whips 7. 380
Wine 7. 380
Chocolate Cream au Nougat 7. 376
Bars 7. 37 6
Buns or Cakes 7. 376
Drops 7.376
Ice 7. 37 6
Tarts 7. 377
Choca 7. 373
Choppers 7. 381
Chops 7. 380
Boiled Mutton 7. 972
Choucroute 7.381
Choux 7.381
Caramels with 7. 381
Coffee Icing with 7. 382
Crisped with Almonds 7. 382
Crotltons for Soup 7. 382
Filled with Cream 7. 382
Paste 7. 381
Chow Chow 7. 382
Chowder 7. 383
Catfish 7. 318
Clam 7. 395
Cod 7. 415
Corn 7.776
Fish 7. 591
Lobster 7. 87 1
Christmas Buns 7. 210
Cake 7.232
Fare 7. 383
Pudding 7. 385
Chub 7. 386
Baked 7. 386
Broiled 7. 386
Roasted 7. 386
Cliufa 7. 386
Chump of Beef, Braised 7. 109
Chuppatee 7. 386
Chutney 7. 386
Apple 7. 28
Elderberry 7. 57 0
Gooseberry 7.703
Green Tomato 77. 595
Mango 7. 907
Mint 7. 945
Tamarind 77. 565
Tomato 77. 600
Cider 7. 133, 387
Cider, Boiled 7. 389
Bottled 7. 389
Cake 7. 389
Champagne 7. 389
Cocktail 7. 389
Cup 7. 389
Imitation 7. 389
Jelly 7. 389
Mulled 7. 389
Pineapple 77. 193
Punch 7.389, 77.273
Refining 7. 389
Rhubarb 77.319
Vinegar 7. 389
Cinchona 7. 389
Cinnamon 7. 390
Biscottini 7. 390
Brandy 7. 390
Buns 7.210,390
Cakes 7. 390
Candied 7. 390
Confection 7.391
Comfits 7.391
Cordial 7. 391
Cream 7. 392
Cream Ice 7. 391
Currant and Caraway Cakes 7. 391
Drop Biscuits 7. 391
Essence of 7. 392
Extract of 7. 392
Flavouring 7. 391
Liqueur 7. 391
Lozenges 7.391
Sauce 7. 391
Star Cakes 7.391
Sticks 7. 392
Sugar 7. 392
Sweetmeats 7. 392
Syrup 7. 392
Tablets 7. 392
Tincture of 7. 392
Wafers 7.392
Water Cakes 7. 392
Water Ice 7. 392
Circassian Pudding 77. 255
Cisco 7. 392
Potted 7. 392
Citric Acid 7. 393
Citron 7. 393
Blancmange 7. 393
Cake 7.393
Cake, White 7. 395
Cheese-cakes 7. 393
Cordial 7. 394
Cream Ice 7. 394
Cream, Whipped 7. 394
Ice 7.394
Jelly 7. 394
Liqueur 7. 394
Paste 7. 394
Pound Cake 7. 394
Preserve 7. 394
Preserved 7. 394
Pudding 7. 394
Citronat 7. 395
Citronelle 7. 395
Civet 7. 395
Venison 77. 736
Clabber Batter Cakes 7. 87
Clam Chowder 7. 395
Chowder Soup 7. 395
Croquettes 7. 396
Forcemeat 7. 396
Fritters 7. 396
Juice Broth 7. 396
Soup 7. 396
Clams 7. 395
Fried 7. 396
Scalloped 7. 396
Clams Served Raw 7. 396
Steamed 7. 397
Stewed 7. 397
Claremont Sauce 77. 387
Clarence Pudding 77. 255
Claret 7. 397
Cobbler 7. 402
Cup 7. 398
Fizz 7. 398
Frozen 7.398
Ice 7. 398
Imitation 7. 398
Jelly 7.398
J ulep 7. 398
Mulled 7. 398
Puffs 7. 398
Punch 77. 274
Clarges-Street Pudding 77. 255
Clarified Butter 7.216
Clarifying 7. 399
Clary 7. 399
Water 7. 399
Wine 7. 399
Clay Cake 7. 232
Clear Soup 77. 481
Asparagus, with 77. 4S1
Nudels, with 77.481
Poached Eggs, with 77.481
Cleavers 7. 399
Clifton Pudding 77. 256
Clochettes 7. 400
Clod 7. 400
Clotted Cream 7. 403
Clove Candy Tablets 7. 400
Cordial 7. 400
Drop Biscuits 77. 400
Gin 7.401
Liqueur 7. 40 1
Lozenges 7. 40 1
Sugar 7.401
Water 7. 401
Cloves 7.400
Essence 7. 40 1
Tincture 7. 401
Coal 7. 40 1
Fish 7.401
Cobblers 7. 402
Champagne 7. 402
Claret 7. 402
Fruit 7. 654
Sherry 7. 402, 77. 447
Whisky 7. 402
Coburg Pudding 77. 256
Soups 77. 481
Coca 7. 402
Liqueur 7. 402
Cochineal 7. 402
Cocido 7. 402
Cockade 7. 402
Cock a-Leekie 7. 403
Mock 7. 403
Cockle Ketchup 7. 405
Salad 7. 405
Sauce 7. 405
Soup 7. 405
Cockles 7. 404
Hustled 7. 405
Pickled 7. 405
Scalloped 7. 405
Cocks' Combs 7. 403
Fried, Stuffed 7.404
Rissoles of 7. 404
with Truffles in Aspic 7. 404
Cocks’ Kernels 7. 404
Cocktails 7. 405
Bourbon 7. 405
Brandy 7. 405
Champagne 7. 405
Champagne- Cider 7. 405
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
841
Cocktails, Cider 7. 389
Gin 7. 405
Rje Whisky 7. 405
Cocoa 7. 405
Bavaroise 7. 407
Blancmange 7. 407
Cream Jell}' 7. 407
Liqueur 7. 407
Pudding 7. 407
Cocoa nut Balls 7. 408
and Orange Cream for Cakes 7. 410
Biscuits 7. 408
Buns 7. 408
Cake 7. 408
Candy 7. 408
Candy Drops 7. 408
Caramels i. 408
Cheese Cakes 7. 409
Chips, Crystallised 7. 412
Compote of Pink 7. 411
Compote of W hite 7. 411
Conserve 7. 409
Cream Balls 7. 409
Cream Ice 7. 409
Cream Pies 7. 409
Custard Pies 7. 409
Drops 7. 409
Fondants 7. 409
Frost on Custard 7. 409
Grated 7. 412
Hard-hake i. 409
Ice 7. 409
Jap 7. 409
Lozenges 7. 409
Milk 7. 409
Milk Sauce 7. 410
Patties 7. 410
Pies 7. 410
PoundCakes 7. 410
Pudding 7. 410
Pudding, Portuguese 7. 412
Raisin Cream and 7. 411
Rock 7. 411
Salad 7. 411
Snow 7. 411
SpongeCakes 7.411
Sponge Pudding 7.411
Stickjaw 7.411
Sweetmeat 7. 411
Tart 7.411
Cocoa-nuts 7. 407
Cod 7.412
a la Royal e 7. 414
au Gratin 7. 414
Baked 7. 412
Balls 7. 415
Boiled 7. 413
Boiled, salted 7. 414
Broiled as in Turkey 7. 415
Buttered 7. 414
Buttered, salted 7. 414
Cake 7. 415
Chowder 7. 415
Cleaning 7. 412
Crimped 7.415
Curried 7.416
Cutlets, fried 7.416
Fillets of, a la Hollandaise 7. 416
Fried 7.416
Grilled 7. 416
Haddock and, fried 7.416
Hashed 7.416
Matelote 7. 416
Nantucket style of cooking 7.417
Omelet 7. 415
Oyster and, Pie 7.415
Pie 7. 415
Rechaulle 7. 417
Salted 7. 417
! Cod Saute 7. 415
Scallops 7. 417
Steaks, fried 7. 416
Stewed 7.417
Toast 7.415
Vol au-Vent 7. 418
with Saffron Sauce 7. 415
Codling, boiled, with Oyster Sauce 7. 413
Cod’s Head, baked 7. 412
Cod’s Liver 7. 418
Quenelles of 7. 418
Cod’s Roes 7. 418
a la Hollandaise . 7. 418
Fried 7.418
Scalloped 7. 419
Stewed 7.419
Cod's Sounds 7. 419
and Tongues Pie 7. 419
Boiled 7. 419
Roasted 7. 419
Cod’s Tongues 7. 419
a la Poulette 7. 419
Blanched 7. 419
Boiled 7.419
Fried 7. 420
with Black Butter Sauce 7. 420
Coffee 7. 428
Bavaroise 7. 422
Beans, roasted 7. 420
Beer 7. 422
Biscuits for 7. 141
Blanc mange 7. 422
Brandy and, Cream Bonbons 7. 423
Breakfast 7. 420
Cake 7. 423
Cakes for 7. 230
Caramel Tablets 7. 423
Charlotte Russe 7. 423
Cheese 7. 423
Cream 7. 423
Cream Ice 7. 423
Cream Syrup 7. 424
Croquenl touche 7. 424
Custards 7. 424
Drops 7. 424
Essence 7. 421
Flavoured with Oat Liquor 7. 425
F rench 7. 42 1
Glace es 7. 424
Granit 7. 424
Icing 7. 424
Jelly 7. 424
Liqueur 7. 424
Liqueur Jelly 7. 425
Liquid Extract 7. 421
Mange 7. 425
Pudding 7. 425
Shape, marbled 7. 425
Soda-water and, hot 7. 425
Souffle 7. 425
Steamed 7. 42!
Walnuts 7. 425
Whipped Cream with 7. 425
White 7. 421
with Egg 7. 424
Cognac 7. 426
Bitters 7. 177
Oil of 7. 177
Colanders 7. 426
Colares 7. 426
Colbert Sauce 7. 426, 77. 387
Soup 77. 481
Colcannon 7. 426
Colchester Cakes 7. 232
Cold Beef Fricassee 7. 117
Stewed Slices of, with Green Peas
7. 129
Cold Boiled Beef au Gratin 7. 113
Plain warmed 7. 113
Cold Boiled Beef Salad 7. 125
Warmed and served with Italian
Sauce 7. 113
Warmed and served with Tomato
Sauce 7.113
Warmed, with Bacon and Potatoes
7. 1 13
Cold Meat Cookery 7. 922
Meats 7. 921
Puddings a la Diaz 77. 256
Stewed Ribs of Beef with Aspic
Jelly 7.113
Veal Rechauffe 77. 701
Colewort 7. 426
Collared Beef 7. 1 13
Meat 7. 426
Collation 7. 426
College Puddings 77. 256
Collops 7. 426
Beef 7. 99
Russian 7. 426
Savoury Minced Beef 7. 126
Colourings 7. 426
Carmine 7. 297
for Gravies 7.712
Mixtures for Wines, &c. 7. 427
Spinach-green 77. 501
Yellow 7. 427
Colours, Aniline 7. 427
Blue 7. 427
Green 7. 427
Red 7. 427
Coltsfoot 7. 427
Essence of 7. 428
Liqueur 7. 427
Lozenges 7. 427
Rock 7. 428
Wine 7.428
Comfits 7.428
Comfrey 7. 428
Commanderia 7. 428
Commander-in-Chief Punch 77. 274
Common Biscuits 7. 141
German Buns for wholesale use
7. 210
Composition Cake 7. 232
Compote of Apples 7. 37
Apricots 7. 44
Bananas 7. 7 1
Barberries 7. 77
Chestnut Paste 7. 369
Green Angelica 7. 22
Vermicellied Chestnuts 7. 369
Compotes 7. 428
Cremona 7. 428
de Seville 7. 428
Golden 7. 428
Grecian 7. 428
Russian 7. 428
Savoyade 7. 428
Spanish 7. 428
Conde, a la 7. 429
Cakes 7. 232
Soup 77. 481
Condensed Milk 7. 938
Condiments 7. 429
Confectionery 7. 429
Confections 7. 429
Almack’s 7. 9
Confederate Cake 7. 232
Comfits, Angelica 7. 22
Aniseed 7. 23
Conger Eels 7. 548
Conservative Pudding 77. 256
Conserve Lemon 7. 840
Spice 77. 499
Consomme 7. 429
a la Duchesse 7. 431
a l’Anglaise 7. 431
842
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Consomme a la Printanier i. 432
a la Printanier Royale i. 432
a la Royale i. 431
a la Sevigne i. 432
a l’Epicure i. 431
a l’lndienne i. 431
a l’ltalienne i. 431
a l’Oignon i. 430
a l’Orge i. 430
Andalusian i. 430
au Choux i. 430
au Creme de Riz i. 431
au Poisson i. 430
aux Crepes i. 430
aux Darioles i. 430
aux Noques i. 430
aux Plats i. 431
aux Pois i. 430
aux Quenelles i. 431
aux Ravioles i. 430
Colbert i. 430
Fish i. 591
Fowl i. 618
Game i. 663
Olio i. 431
Stock i. 430
Suedoise i. 432
with Biscottes i. 430
with Celery i. 430
with Chestnut Timbales i. 430
with Chicken i. 430
Constance Pudding ii. 256
Consumption, Beer made with Tar for
i. 130
Contising i. 432
Convent Salad ii. 356
Cooked Salad, Kitchener’s ii. 358
Cookies i. 433
made with Cocoa-nut i. 434
made with Cornflour i. 434
made with Figs i. 434
made with Ginger i. 434
made with Lemon i. 434
New York i. 434
Cooking Apples i. 25
Pot and Curry Pan, Warren’s ii. 7 58
Cooks and Cooking i. 432
Coq de Bruyere i. 434
d’lnde i. 434
Coquilles i. 434
Corach i. 434
Coralline i. 434
Corbeilles i. 434
Cordial Aniseed i. 23
Blackberry i. 151
Black-currant i. 495
Brandy i. 176
Caraway i. 292
Celery i. 326
Cherry i. 357
Cinnamon i. 391
Citron i. 394
Clove i. 400, 401
Coriander i. 438
Dewberry i. 519
Ginger i. 679
Lemon i. 840
Lime-juice i. 862
Liqueurs and i. 434
Mint i. 945
Orange ii. 36
Peppermint ii. 148
Quince ii. 283
Red or White Currant i. 502
Strawberry ii. 519
Coriander i. 438
Cordial i. 438
Essence i. 438
Tincture i. 438
Coring i. 438
Corinthian Sauce ii. 387
Corks and Corking i. 438
Corkscrews i. 439
Corncrakes or Landrails i. 439
Corn Bread i. 181
Green i. 776
Indian i. 776
Salad i. 444
Corned Beef ii. 113
as Cooked hi America i. 114
Boiled with Spinach i. 107
Hashed i. 118
Corned Meats i. 439
Round of Beef, Plain Boiled i. 114
Cornets i. 439
Cornflour i. 440
Batter Cakes i. 440
Breakfast Cakes i. 440
Cakes i. 440
Cheese Cakes i. 441
Crackers i. 441
Cup Cakes i. 441
Dodgers i. 441
Dumplings i. 441
Fritters i. 441
Gnocchi i. 441
Griddle Cakes i. 441
Gruel i. 442
Hasty Pudding i. 442
Jelly i. 442
Loaf Cake i. 442
Lunn i. 442
Maryland Cakes i. 444
Meringue i. 442
Mush i. 442
Pastry Cream i. 442
Port Royal Cakes i. 444
Pudding i. 442
Pudding, Apple ami i. 28
Puffs i. 443
Ramakins i. 444
Shape i. 444
Slappers i. 444
Spiced Pudding i. 444
Spider Cakes i. 444
Sponge Bread i. 181
Sponge Cakes i. 444
Timbale i. 444
Waffles i. 444
Cornucopia Biscuits i. 445
of Glacdes Fruits i. 445
Cornucopias i. 444
Cornwall Pudding ii. 256
Corporation Cakes i. 232
Corstorpliine Cream i. 445
Cosaques i. 445
Costard i. 445
Costmary i. 445
Cotelettes i. 445
Cottage Cheese i. 343
Pudding ii. 256
Soup ii. 482
Cottenliam Cheese i. 344
Coughs, Barley Waiter for, i. 80
Drops ii. 536
Lozenges i. 883
Coulibiac i. 445
Countess Soup ii. 482
Country Cakes i. 232
Captain i. 446
Salad ii. 356
Couques i. 446
Court Bouillon i. 447
Barbel boiled hr i. 75
Bar boiled in i. 74
Couteau Julienne i. 447
Covers i. 447
Cow-Heel i. 447
Cow-Heel Fritters i. 447
Grilled i. 447
Jelly i. 447
Pickled i. 448
Soup i. 447
Stewed i. 448
Cowslip Cup i. 448
Mead i. 448
Pudding i. 448
Syrup i. 448
Vinegar i. 448
Whie i. 448
Cowslips i. 448
Cream and i. 448
Crystallised i. 448
Dried i. 448
Infusion i. 448
Crab a la Reine i. 450
Buttered i. 449
Cromeskies i. 450
Croquettes i. 450
Forcemeat i. 450
in shells i. 451
Mhiced i. 451
Mock i. 351
Omelet i. 450
Pie i. 450
Salad i. 450
Sauce i. 451
Soup i. 451
Stew i. 451
Stewed with Tomatoes i. 452
Crab-Apple Cheese, American i. 452
Jam i. 453
Jelly i. 453
Crab-Apples i. 452
Dried American i. 38
Preserved i. 453
Crabs i. 448
Boiled i. 452
Broiled i. 452
Canapes i. 449
Devilled i. 451
Fried i. 452
Hard-shell i. 449
Oyster i. 452
Sauce for ii. 395
Scalloped i. 452
Soft shell i. 452
Cracked-wheat Mush ii. 764
Porridge ii. 7 64
Crackers i. 453, 454
Cornflour i. 441
in Cream i. 453
Lemon Flavoured i. 454
Pudding i. 453
Soda i. 454
Crackling i. 454
Cracklings, Almond i. 11
Dutch i. 455
Philadelphia i. 455
Cracknels i, 454
Cracknuts i. 455
Cradle-spit i. 455
Crambamboli i. 455
Cranberry Compote i. 455
Jam i. 456
Jelly i. 456
Patties i. 456
Pie i. 456
Roll i. 456
Sauce i. 456
Tart i. 456
Tartlets i. 456
Water i. 456
Cranberries i. 455
Bottled i. 455
Cranes i. 456
Broiled i. 456
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
843
Crapaudine 7. 456
Sauce 77. 387
Crape-fisli 7. 456
Crapiva Soup 7. 456
Crap [ lie 7. 457
Crayfish 7. 457
a la Bordelaise 7. 458
a la Lorraine 7. 458
a. la Mariniere 7. 458
a la Polonaise 7. 458
Aspic of, with Salad 7. 457
Bisk of Fresh water 7. 149
Boiled in Court Bouillon 7. 458
Bouchdes 7. 457
Butter 7. 458
Cheeses with Jelly 7. 459
Croquettes 7. 459
for Garnish 7. 459
in Aspic 7. 56
Nudels 7. 459
Omelet 7. 459
Potted 7. 460
Pudding 7. 459
Quenelles 7. 459
Rissoles 7. 459
River 7. 457
Salad with Aspic 7. 460
Salpipon 7. 460
Sauce 7. 460
Sea 7. 461
Served en Buisson 7. 458
Soup 7. 460
Stewed 7. 460
Stock 7. 460
Timbale 7. 461
Crayfish -tails, Canapes of 7. 457
Scalloped 7. 460
Cream 7. 461
a la Diplomate 7. 463
a la Patissiere 7. 463
a la Versailles 7. 471
Almond 7. fl
Anchovy 7. 19
Anchovy Toast and 7. 463
Apple 7. 28
Apple Tartlets with 7. 36
Apricot 7. 41
Arrowroot 7. 46
Artichoke 7. 49
Barberry 7. 76
Barley 7. 7 8
Barley Sugar 7. 80
Bavarian 7. 9, 462
Biscuits 7. 463
Brandy 7. 176
Buckets 7. 463
Burnt 7. 462
Cakes 7. 464
Candy 7. 281, 465
Caramel 7. 289, 465
Chateaubriand 7. 463
Chocolate 7. 375
Clotted 7. 463
Cloves 7. 401
Coffee 7. 423
Confectioners’ 7. 463
Corstorphine 7. 445
Cuite 7. 465
Devonshire 7. 47 1
Flavoured with Cinnamon 7. 465
Flavoured with Coffee 7. 465
Flavoured with Lemon 7. 467
Flavoured with Tea 7. 470
Flawn 7. 465
Flemish 7. 598
Floating Islands 7. 471
for Fruit Pies 7. 466
Fritters i. 466
Game i. 662
Cream, German i. 471
Ginger i. 680
Glazed i. 466
Ground Rice ii. 325
Harlequin i. 472
Imitation i. 472
Imperial i. 472
Indian i. 472
Italian i. 472
Jelly i. 466
Lemon i. 840
Lettuce i. 859
Light i. 473
Lima Beans i. 94
Lobster i. 87 1
Maizena Bavarian i. 905
Maraschino i. 909
Mauritius i. 473
Meringues i. 467, 933
Muscovite i. 473
Neapolitan i. 473
Nectar ii. 2
Newport, Whipped i. 473
of Tartar Drink i. 477
Orange ii. 36
Orange-flower ii. 48
Pancakes i. 467
Paste i. 467
Pastry i. 473
Peach ii. 134
Pie i. 467
Pie, Turkish i. 476
Plombiere i. 468
Potted i. 474
Princess i. 474
Prussian i. 474
Pudding i. 468
Puffs i. 468
Puffs, Boston i. 462
Quenelles i. 469
Quince ii. 283
Raspberry ii. 307
Ratafia ii. 314
Rhenish i. 474
Rhubarb ii. 319
Rice ii. 329
Rock i. 474
Rockwork i. 469
Roman i. 474
Rose i. 474
Royal i. 474
Rum ii. 348
Sago ii. 354
Salad ii. 360
Salad Dressing i. 469
Sauce i. 469
Scones i. 469
Shape Pudding i. 469
Sherbet i. 470
Snow i. 475
Souffkis i. 470
Sour i. 475
Spanish i. 475
Stone i. 475
Strawberry ii. 519
Swiss i. 476
Syrup i. 47 0
Tapioca ii. 567
Tart i. 470
Tartar i. 477
Tartlets i. 470
Tea ii. 57 8
Thick i. 476
Toasts i. 470
Toffy i. 47 1
Trifle i. 47 1
Vanilla ii. 677
Vanilla and Chocolate ii. 677
Vanilla and Currant ii. 678
Cream, Vanilla, Whipped ii. 681
Velvet i. 476
Versailles i. 476
Virginia i. 476
Whey i. 47 1
Whipped i. 476
Whips i. 47 1
Windsor i. 477
with Barley i. 463
with Burnt Sugar i. 464
with Chocolate i. 465
with Orange i. 467
with Sherry i. 470
with White Wine i. 47 1
Cream Cheese i. 344, 351
Dutch i. 344
Fritters i. 351
Iced i. 351
Italian i. 344
Puffs i. 351
Turkish mode of Serving i. 352
with Marmalade i. 351
Creamed Butter i. 216
Cream Ice i. 466
Bavana i. 70
Black Currant i. 495
Bourbon i. 462
Bread i. 187
Brown Bread 7.191
Butter-milk i. 218
Caramel i. 289
Cherry i. 357
Chestnut i. 366
Cinnamon i. 391
Citron i. 394
Cocoa-nut i. 409
Coffee i. 423
Curafoa i. 493
Damson i. 514
Fig i. 582
Filbert i. 585
F rench i, 47 1
Fruit i. 654
Gelatine i. 672
Ginger i. 680
Gooseberry i. 703
Greengage i. 717
Hazel-nut 7.757
Hickory-nut 7. 768
Italian 7. 473
Kirsclienwasser 7. 800
New York 7. 473
Plombiere. 7. 474
Portuguese 7. 474
Red or White Currant 7. 502
Sherbert 7. 474
Sicilian 7. 474
Souffld 7. 475
Sponge Cake 7. 260
Strudels 7. 470
Creams, Bavarian 7. 87
Fried 7. 471
Crepy 7.477
Soup 77. 482
Cremes 7. 477
Cremona 7. 477
Cremo Yankee 7. 477
Crepes 7. 477
Crepinettes 7. 477
Calf’s Feet 7. 269
Crescents 7. 477
Cress Salad 7. 478
Vinegar 7.478
Cresses 7. 477
Crimped Cod 7. 415
Skate 77. 453
Crimping 7. 478
Board 7. 478
Crisped Apples 7. 38
844
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Crisps 7. 47 8
Almond 7. 11
Crissins 7. 478
Croakers 7. 478
Crockery 7.478
Cromeskies 7. 478
Calf’s Brains, of 7. 266
Game 7. 663
Grouse 7. 722
Mutton 7. 985
Salmon 77. 368
Croquantes 7. 478
Venetian 7. 479
Croquenbouches 7. 479
a la Reine 7. 479
Petit Clmux, of 7. 382
Croques 7. 479
Croquettes 7.479
a lTmperiale 7. 480
Almond 7. 11
Apple 7. 28
Beef 7. 99
Beef and Potatoes, Forcemeat 7. 117
Brain 7. 173
Calf’s Brains 7. 266
Calf's Kidney 7. 274
Cold Meat 7. 922
Crab 7. 450
Egg 7. 556
Egg and Anchovy 7. 554
Filbert 7. 585
Fish 7. 590
Fowl 7.618
Game 7. 663
Goose's Fat-Liver 7. 699
Ham 7.740
Lobster 7. 87 1
Milanese 7. 480
Mutton 7. 985
Nouille 77. 8
Oyster 77. 75
Preparing 7.480
Rice 77. 330
Royal 7. 480
Salmon 77. 368
Turkish 7. 480
Croquignoles 7. 480
Croustales 7. 481
a la Financiere 7. 481
C rod to au-Pot 7.481
Soup 77. 482
Croutons 7. 481
Aspic for Ornamentation 7. 56
Bread 7. 188
Brioche 7. 199
Fried Bread 7. 191
with Apricots 7. 44
Crowberries 7. 482
Crowdy 7. 482
Crown Prince’s Soup 77. 482
Cruets 7. 482
Cruet Sauce 7. 482
Crullers 7.482
Crulls 7. 482
Crumb Pudding, Apple and 7. 28
Crumbs 7. 483
Crumpets 7 483
Cake with Cream 7. 484
Flannel 7. 484
Fried 7. 484
made with Hominy 7, 484
made with Rice 7. 484
Wheat-Hour and Cornflour 77.764
Crupnic Soup 77. 482, 484
Crusades 7. 484
Crusts 7. 484
Golden 7. 192
Milk 7. 939
Suet 77. 532
Crystallising 7.484
Crystal Palace Puddings 77. 257
Cucumber F litter 7. 487
Ketchup 7. 487
Salad 7. 487
Sauce 7. 487
Soup 7. 488
Vinegar 7. 488
Cucumbers 7. 485
a Blanc 7. 486
a la Bechamel 7. 485
a la Blanquette 7. 486
a la Franfaise 7. 486
a la Maitre d’Hotel 7. 486
a la Poulette 7. 486
Compote 7. 485
Curried 7. 488
for Garnish 7. 487
Fried 7. 488
Glazed 7. 488
Grated 7. 488
Pickled 7. 488
Preserved 7. 490
Puree of 7.490
Served like Cardoons 7. 486
Stewed 7. 490
Stuffed with Forcemeat 7. 486
Stuffed with Ox-marrow 7.487
with Duck, Marinaded 7. 488
Culinary U tensils 7. 490
Cullet 7.491
Cullis 7. 491
Cumberland Pudding 77. 257
Cumin 7. 491
Conner 7. 491
Cup Cakes 7. 232
Puddings 77. 257
Cups 7. 491
Cowslip 7. 448
Loving-cup 7. 492
Moselle 7. 949
Parting- cup 7. 492
Orange 77. 37
Oxford Grace 7. 492, 77. 69
Curacoa 7. 492
Cordial 7. 493
Cream Ice 7. 493
Essence 7. 493
Jelly 7. 493
Sauce 7. 493
Curate’s Puddings 77. 257
Curd Blancmange 7. 493
Cakes 7. 493
Cheese cakes 7. 493
Fritters 7. 494
Pudding 7. 494
Puffs 7. 494
Soup 7. 494
Curds 7. 493
Cream and 7. 494
Curing 7. 494
Beef for Drying 7.114
Curly Cress 7. 495
Currant Buns 7. 210
Cake 7. 503
Cherry and, Wine 7. 500
Dumplings 7. 503
Fritters 7. 504
Gruel 7. 504
Jam 7. 501
Jelly Sauce 7. 501
Juice Jelly 7. 501
Pie 7. 50 1
Pudding 7. 504
Roll 7. 504
Sauce for Sucking-pig 7. 504
Sherbet 7. 501
Soup, Apple and 7. 28
Syrup 7. 501
Currant Tart 7. 504
Water 7. 502
Wine from Unripe Fruit 7. 502
Currants 7. 495
Apples with 7. 28
Black 7. 495
Dried 7. 503
Spiced 7. 504
Curried Beef 7. 114
Cold Meat 7. 924
Lobster 7. 868
Meat 7. 920
Curry 7. 504
Forcemeat Balls 7. 505
Diil 7. 513
Indian Stick 7. 506
Lentil 7. 857
Paste 7. 505
Portuguese Indian 7. 506
Sandwich 7. 506
Sauce 7. 506
Soup 7. 506
Curry -powder 7. 505
Bengal 7. 505
Madras 7. 506
Cuscus 7. 507
Cushion 7. 507
Cushions Anchovy 7. 19
Cusine 7. 490
Cusk 7. 507
Boiled 7. 507
Cussy 7. 507
Cake 7. 232, 507
Soup 77. 482
Custard 7. 507
Apple 7. 28
Apples 7.510
Apple Tart and 7. 35
Apple, with Vanilla 7.28
Arrowroot 7. 46
Baked 7. 507
Boiled 7. 507
Burnt 7. 508
Cake or Pain 7. 508
Caramel 7. 290
Cheese 7. 348
Cherry 7. 358
Chestnut 7. 366
Chicken 7.613
Chocolate 7. 377
Chocolate and Apple 7. 374
Coffee 7. 424
Cold 7. 508
Cream 7. 508
Cup Pudding 7. 508
Durham 7.510
Flavoured with Rum 7. 509
French 7.510
F litters 7. 508
Ground Rice 77. 325
in Cups or Glasses 7. 508
Jamaica 7. 510
Jam Pudding and 7. 508
Jelly 7. 510
Lemon 7. 843
Macaroon 7. 895
Mutton, for Invalids 7. 986
Orange 77. 37
Peach 77. 134
Posset 7. 508
Pudding 7. 509
Quaking 7. 510
Raspberry 77. 309
Rice 77. 330
Sauce 7. 509
Shape 7. 509
Souffle 7. 509
Soup, Savoury 7. 510
Spanish 7. 510
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
845
Custard, Sponge 7. 510
Tapioca 77. 568
Tart 7. 509
Tart with Meringue 7. 509
Toast 7. 510
Vanilla 77. 678
Vanilla Cup ii. 678
Wine ii. 7 88
Customs, Table ii. 556
Cutlery i. 510
Cutlets i. 510
Beef i. 100
Brain i. 173
Cold Meat i. 922
Fish i. 591
Fried Grouse i. 722
Game i. 664
Mutton i. 986
Salmon ii. 368
Salmon, Boiled ii. 363
Veal ii. 710
Wild Boar i. 159
Cutters 7.511
Cuvees 7.511
Cuyos 7.511
Cuyte Beer 7.511
Cygnets 7.511
Boasted 7.511
Stewed 7.511
Cylinder Moulds 7. 511
Cymlings 7.511
Cyprus Wines 7. 512
Czarina Sauce 77. 387
D
Dabchicks 7. 512
Dabs 7. 512
Fried 7. 512
Dace 7. 512
Dainties and Delicacies 7.512
Dairy 7. 512
Daisy’s Pudding 77. 257
Dill 7.513
Curry 7. 513
Damiana 7.513
Damkorf Pudding 77.257
Dampf-Nudels 77. 11
Damson, Apple and, Shapes 7. 513
Bullace and, Jelly 7. 513
Cheese 7. 513
Cream Ice 7. 514
Jam 7. 514
Jam Pudding 7.514
Paste 7.514
Paste, Candied Knots 7. 513
Pastille Drops 7. 514
Pie 7.514
Sauce 7.514
Tart 7. 514
Water Ice 7. 514
Wiue 7. 514
Damsons 7. 513
Bottled 7. 513
Compote of 7. 513
Preserved 7.514
Preserved Pulp of 7. 514
Dandelion 7. 515
Beetroot and, Salad 7. 515
Salad 7. 515
Sandwich 7. 515
Stewed, leaves 7. 515
Tea 7. 515
Dandelion Wine 7. 515
Danish Puddings 77. 257
Dantzic 7. 515
Brandy 7. 177
Darioles 7. 515
Dame 7. 516
Salmon, of 77. 364
D’ Artois 7.516
Cake a la Parisienne 7. 233
Cake with Apples 7. 233
Russian 7. 516
Darum 7.516
Date Cake 7. 517
Compote 7.517
Pudding 7. 517
Date -Plums 7. 517
Dates 7. 516
for Dessert 7. 515
Stuffed with Cream 7. 517
Date-shaped Biscuits 7.141
Daube 7. 517
Daubing 7. 517
Dauphine, a la 7.518
Cake 7. 233
Daventry Cheese 7. 344
Decanters 7.518
Decanting 7. 518
Decoctions 7.518
Decorations, Table 77. 558
Deer Head-and-Feet Soup 77. 7 4 3
Heart, Roasted 77. 743
Liver, Fried 77. 743
Delaware Pudding 77. 257
Delhi Pudding 77. 257
Delicate Cake 7. 233
Delicious Cake 7. 233
Delille Cake 7. 233
Demijohns 7. 518
Demi- Provenf ale Sauce 77. 387
Demon Cake 7. 233
Dentex 7. 518
Derby Cakes 7. 234
Short Cakes 7. 234
Derbyshire Cheese 7. 344
Rolls 7. 184
Derry Pudding 77. 258
Derwentwater Cakes 7. 234
Dessert 7. 518
Almonds and Raisins for 7. 13
Apples 7. 25
Blackberry 7. 151
Cakes 7. 234
or Cooking Apples 7. 26
Peaches 77. 134
Devilled Beef 7.114
Bones 7. 167
Bread for Breakfast 7. 191
Game 7. 662
Kidneys 7. 796
Lobster 7. 868
Salted and, Almonds 7. 15
Devils 7.519
Apple 7. 29
Sauce 77. 387
Devonshire Buns 7. 210
Cakes 7. 234
Cream 7.471
Junket 7. 519
Omelet 77. 21
Pudding 77. 258
Squab Pie 7. 978
White-Pot 7. 519
Dewberries 7. 519
Dewberry Cordial 7. 519
Diabetic Bread 7. 181
Diablotins 7. 519
Diamond-Back 7. 520
Diastase 7. 520
Diavolini 7. 520
Diet 7. 520
Dietetic Bread 7. 181
Digesters 7. 520
Digestion 7. 521
Digestive Biscuits 7. 141
Cakes 7. 234
Candy 7. 281
Dika 7. 522
Dill 7. 522
Dimple Cakes 7. 234
Dingy Pudding 77. 258
Dinners 7. 522
Dip 7. 522
Diplomatic Pudding 77. 258
Sauce 77. 387
Sauce for Pudding 77. 400
Soup 77. 483
Dipper 7. 522
Dish-covers 7. 523
Dishes 7. 522
American 7. 16
Dishing-up 7. 524
Dolmas of Cabbage in Grecian style
7. 222
in Turkish style 7. 222
Dome-moulds 7. 524
Domino Cakes 7. 234
Doopiajas 7. 524
Dorado 7. 524
D’Orsay Soup 77. 483
Dorse, Dorsch 7. 525
Dorset Cheese 7. 344
Dotterels 7. 525
Doucette 7. 525
Dough 7. 525
Cakes 7. 525
Dough-birds 7. 525
Broiled 7. 525
Roasted 7. 525
Salmis of 7. 525
Dough-nuts 7. 526
Isle of Wight 7. 527
Imitation 7. 527
with F ruit 7. 527
Dover Cake 7. 234
I loves 7. 527
Broiled 7. 527
Soup 7. 527
Dowitcher 7. 527
Down-East Pudding 77. 258
Dragees 7. 527
or French Sugar Plums 77. 5 3 6
Drainers 7. 527
Drawn Butter 7. 216
Sauce 7.217
Dream Cake 7. 234
Dredgers 7. 528
Dressing 7. 528
Salad 77. 360
Dried Albumen 7.6
American Crab- Apples 7. 38
Angelica 7. 22
Apples 7. 38
Apples Stewed 7. 39
Apricots 7. 44
Lemon-peel 7. 837
Salted and, Bacon 7. 62
Drink Apple 7.29
Arrowroot 7. 46
Black Currant 7. 496
Celery 7. 326
Cream of Tartar 7. 477
for an Invalid 7. 134
Ginger 7. 680
Grape 7.710
Imperial 7. 134
May 7. 916
Oatmeal 77. 1 5
Pine-apple 77. 194
846
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Drink, Pistachio ii. 201
Prime 77. 249
Tamarind ii. 565
Tapioca ii. 568
Toasted Bread i. 192
Winter i. 135
Drinking- vessels i. 528
Drinks, American i. 16
Bar i. 74
Egg i. 556
Summer i. 134
Dripping i. 528
Cake 7. 528
Dumplings i. 528
Paste i. 528
Dripping-pans i. 528
Drop Biscuits i. 142
Cakes i. 234
Drops i. 528
Arrowroot i. 47
Barberry i. 76
Barley Sugar i. 81
Lemon i. 843
Liquorice i. 863
Peppermint ii. 148
Drying i. 528
Curing Beef for i. 144
Dry Soup ii. 483
Dubbers i. 529
Duchess Cakes i. 234
Cakes a la Pattissiere i. 234
Sandwiches ii. 378
Sauce ii. 387
Soup ii. 483
Duck i. 529
a la Chasseur i. 530
Boiled i. 529
Boned and served with Jelly i. 529
Braised i. 529
Braised, with Mushrooms i. 530
Canvas-Back i. 282
Capilotade of i. 530
Dam-pukht of i. 531
Devilled i. 530
Doopiaja i. 530
Hashed i. 531
Mutton i. 988
Pie i. 530
Purtie of i. 531
Roasted 7.531
Royolnie of i. 532
Salmis of i. 532
Sandwiches i 530
Soup i. 530
Sour-crout with i. 531
Stewed i. 532
Wild ii. 775
Ducklings i. 533
Curried i. 533
Fillets of i. 534
Roasted i. 534
Stewed i. 535
with Olives i. 533
Duck’s Eggs i. 535
Salad i. 535
Duck’s Giblets i. 535
Soup i. 535
Stewed i. 535
Duck’s Livers i. 535
au Gratin i. 535
Terrine of i. 535
Duke of Connaught Soup ii. 481
Duke’s Pudding ii. 258
Dulse i. 536
Dumas Salad ii. 356
Dumplings i. 536
Apple i. 29
Bread-and-Suet i. 190
Cornflour i. 441
Dumplings, Currant i. 503
Dripping i. 528
Egg i. 556
for Broth i. 536
for Stew i. 536
Fruit i. 655
German i. 536
Hard i. 537
Italian i. 537
Jam i. 781
Lemon i. 843
Milk 7.939
Norfolk 7. 537
Oxford 7. 537
Peach 77. 131
Pear ii. 143
Pigeon 77. 181
Sago, for Soup ii. 354
Sparrow 77. 497
Suet ii. 532
Suffolk 7.537
Vienna 7. 537
with Sour-crout 7. 533
Yeast 77.802
Dumpode 7.537
Dun-birds 7.537
Dundee Cake 7. 234
Dunlop Cheese 7. 344
Durian 7.537
Dutch Beef 7.114
Biscuits 7. 142
Blancmange 7. 157
Bolac Cake 7. 234
Cakes 7. 235
Cheese 7.344
Cream Cheese 7. 344
Ovens 7. 538
Pudding 77. 258
Salad 77. 356
Sauce 77. 387
Wafer Pudding 77. 258
D’Uxelles 7.538
Sauce 77. 388
Dyspepsia Bread 7. 181
Ears 7. 538
Lamb’s 7. 817
Pig’s 77. 169
Sheep’s 77. 437
Easter Eggs 7. 538
East Indian Sauce 77. 388
Eau Gaseuse 7. 3
Sucre 77. 536
Ecarlate a la 7. 538
Echaudes 7. 538
Eclairs 7. 538
Coffee or Chocolate 7. 538
Cream for 7. 538
Elbe’s 7. 539
Icing for 7. 539
Vanilla 77. 67 8
Economy in the kitchen 7. 539
Eddoes 7. 539
Edinburgh Biscuits 7. 142
Editor’s Pudding 77. 258
Eel, Braised 7. 541
Fricassee 7. 544
Galantine 7. 545
Patties 7. 543
Pie 7. 543
Pie and Tench 7. 544
Eel Pie, Raised 7. 546
Porcupine 7. 545
Roasted 7. 546
Salad, Smoked 7. 546
Saveloys, Savoury 7. 546
Soup 7. 543
Spitchcocked 7. 546
Eelpout 7. 549
Boiled, a la Parisienne 7. 549
Liver Pie 7. 549
Soup 7. 549
Stewed 7. 549
Eels 7. 540
a la Minute 7.512
a la Suffren 7. 542
Aspic Jelly, in 7. 542
Baked 7. 541
Boded 7. 541
Brochette 7. 541
Eroded 7. 541
Codared 7. 542
Conger 7. 548
Fried 7.544
Matelote 7. 545
Mayonnaise 7. 545
Potted 546
Roasted in Ashes 7. 543
Silver 7. 541
Stewed 7. 546
Stewed in Beer 7. 544
Effervescing Apricot Drink 7. 44
Egg Balls 7. 554
Balls for Turtle Soup 77. 665
Bouchdes 7. 555
Bread 7. 181
Bread in Soup 7. 191
Canapes 7. 555
Cheesecakes 7. 555
Cromeskies 7. 556
Croquettes 7. 556
Cup- Puddings with Game Broth
7. 556
Custard, and Wine 7. 563
Drinks 7. 556
Dumplings 7. 556
Flip 7. 556
Foam Sauce 7. 557
Fritters 7. 557
Gruel 7. 558
Hot 7. 559
J elly 7. 558
Lemonade 7. 558
Marmalade 7. 558
Mincemeat 7. 558
Mince Pies 7. 559
Nuremberg 7. 564
Patties 7. 559
Pickled 7. 564
Pudding 7. 559
Pudding, and Flour Batter 7. 557
Puffs 7. 560
Punch 77. 274
Salad 7. 560
Sandwiches 7. 560
Sauce 7. 560
Sausages 7. 561
Snow 7. 561
Soup 7. 561
Tablets 7. 562
Toasts 7. 562
Vermicelli 7. 562
Wine 7.563
Egg-and- Anchovy Croquettes 7. 554
Anchovy Toast 7. 554
Artichokes 7. 49
Beetroot Salad 7. 555
Cornflour Bread 7. 181
Cream 7. 555
Cream Pudding 7. 555
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
847
Egg and-Milk Pudding i. 558
Milk with Rum 7. 558
Mushroom Ragoht 7. 559
Onion Stew 7. 559
Orange Butter Cakes 7. 559
Sprue 7. 54
Truffle Omelets i. 562
Water Cream 7. 562
Egg-cordial Nip 7. 555
Egged Bread 7. 555
Egg-Nog 7. 559
Egg-Plant Frait 7. 568
au Gratin 7. 568
Baked 7. 568
Boiled 7. 568
Broiled 7. 568
Fried 7. 569
Fritters 7. 568
Mashed 7. 569
Omelet 7. 569
Pickled 7. 569
Pilau 7. 569
Pudding 7. 569
Stewed 7. 569
Stuffed to imitate Fish 7. 570
Egg-powder Cake 7. 559
Eggs 7. 549
a la Bonne Femme 7. 552
a la Bourgeoise 7. 552
a la Creme 7. 552
a la Duchesse 7. 552
a la Lyonnaise 7. 552
a la Maitre d’Hotel 7. 552
a 1’ Annecy 7. 552
a la Parisienne 7. 553
a la Paysanne 7. 553
a la Polonaise 7. 553
a la Post 7. 553
a la Poulette 7. 553
a la Princesse 7. 553
a la Regence 7. 553
a la Reine 7. 553
a la Sultana 7. 553
& la Turque 7. 553
a l’Aurore 7. 552
a, la Valencienne 7. 553
a ITtalienne 7. 552
Artichokes, and 7. 554
Asparagus, and 7. 52
au Gratin 7. 557
au Soleil 7. 553
Baked 7. 550
Boiled 7. 551
Bread and 7. 555
Broiled with Cheese 7. 551
Curried 7. 551
Devilled 7. 552
Dressed in Spanish fashion 7. 562
Duck’s 7. 535
Easter 7. 539
Filagramme 7. 556
Fricassee 7. 563
Fried 7. 563
Fried for Garnish 7. 564
Fried in Batter 7. 557
Genoese 7. 264
Gravy, with 7. 558
Hard-boiled and Parsley, Forcemeat
of 7. 563
Hard-boiled, with Madeira Sauce
7. 564
in a Nest 7. 559
in Aspic 7. 554
in Bedgowns 7. 555
in Cases 7. 555
in Cocottes 7. 555
in Crusts 7. 556
in German style 7. 557
Jelly, in 7. 558
Eggs, Kidneys with 7. 558
Liaison i. 561
Matelote i. 564
Minced Meat, and i. 558
Mock i. 564
Plover’s ii. 204
Poached i. 564
Potato ii. 233
Potted i. 565
Preserved i. 565
Robert Sauce, with i. 560
Savoury i. 565
Scalloped i. 566
Scotch i. 566
Scrambled i. 566
Served with Fine Herbs i. 556
Shanklin i. 566
Shells, in 7.561
Shirred i. 566
Sliced i. 567
Softened in Vinegar i. 562
Spanish i. 567
Spun, for Garnishing Ham i. 567
Steamed i. 567
Stewed i. 567
Stuffed i. 567
Stuffed with Anchovies i. 554
Stuffed with Fish i. 556
Sunset i. 567
Surprise i. 567
Tomato Sauce, with i. 562
Topsy-turvy i. 568
Tripe, as i. 562
Whites of, cooked in Bladders
i. 568
White Sauce, and i. 563
with Asparagus i. 554
with Cheese i. 555
with Game Consomme i. 557
Elberfeld Cake i. 235
Elder i. 570
Elderberries, Preserved i. 572
Elderberry Brandy i. 570
Chutney i. 570
Jelly, and Grape i. 571
Ketchup 7.571
Syrup 7.571
Wine 7. 57 1
Elder Hower Fritters 7. 571
Vinegar 7.571
Wine 7.571
Elder tops Pickled 7.572
Election Cake 7. 235
Electuaries 7. 572
Elizabeth Cake 7. 235
Elva 7. 572
Empire Punch 77. 274
Emulsions 7. 572
Almonds 7. 572
Nutritive 7. 572
Encore Punch 77. 27 4
Endive 7. 572
Salad 7. 572
Stewed 7. 573
Enfield Buns 7. 210
English Rock 77. 536
Sweet Sauce 77. 400
Entrecotes 7. 573
Entities 7.573
Sausage 77. 407
Entremets 7. 574
Eperlans 7. 574
Epigrammes 7. 574
Epinard 7. 575
Equivalents 7. 575
Ergoos 7. 575
Eryngo 7. 575
Escabescia 7. 575
Eschalots 77. 435
Esculent 7. 575
Espagnole 7. 575
Essence of
Anchovy 7. 20
Aniseed 7. 23
Beef 7. 1 15
Bitter Almonds 7. 14
Capsicum 7. 288
Caraway 7. 293
Cardinal 7. 294
Cayenne 7. 288
Cherries 7. 363
Cinnamon 7. 392
Clove 7. 401
Coffee 7. 421
Colouring Mixture for 7. 427
Coltsfoot 7. 428
Coriander 7. 438
Curaf oa 7. 493
Fish 7. 590
Fowl 7. 615
Ginger 7. 677
Hare 7. 745
Lemon 7. 837
Maraschino 7. 909
Mushrooms 7. 959
Pheasant 77. 154
Roses 77. 346
Tansy 77. 566
Tea 77. 57 7
Vanilla 77. 67 5
Vegetables for Soups and Sauces
77. 727
Violets 77. 748
Woodcock 77. 792
Essences 7. 575
Essex Pudding 77. 259
Ether 7. 575
Eucalyptus 7. 575
Everton Toffy 77. 592
Eve’s Pudding 77. 259
“Excellent” Biscuits 7. 142
Pudding 77. 259
Extracts 7. 575
Cinnamon 7. 392
Coffee, Liquid 7. 421
Garlic 7. 668
Lemon 7. 843
Malt, or Food 7. 906
Orange 77. 38
F
Face, Pig’s 77. 575
Fadges 7.575
Faggots 7.576
Almond 7. 1 1
Baked 7. 57 6
Fagots 7.575
Faham 7.576
Fair Maid’s Sauce 77. 388
Fairy Butter 7. 216
Faisans 7.576
Falernian Wines 7. 576
Falernunr 7.576
Family Cake 7.235
Rolls 7. 184
Soup 77. 483
Fanchettes 7. 576
Fanchonnettes 7. 576
Fancy Bread 7. 577
Fandango 7. 577
Fan-Kouques 7. 577
848
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Farces 7. 577
Fare, Christmas 7. 383
Farina 7. 577
Fai ls 7. 577
Farmer’s Salad 77. 356
Soup 77. 483
Faro i. 577
Fat i. 577
Fattening i. 578
Fawn i. 578
Barbecued i. 578
Roasted Saddle i. 578
Feasts i. 578
Feather Cake i. 235
Fecula i. 579
Federal Cake i. 235
Feet i. 579
Lamb’s i. 817
Pig’s ii. 170
Sheep’s ii. 437
Fennel i. 579
Sauce i. 57 9
Fenouillette 7.579
Fenu- Greek 7.579
Fermentation 7. 579
Ferments 7.579
Ferns 7.580
'Fern Salad 7.580
Ferra 7. 580
Feuillantines 7.580
Fenilletage 7. 580
Fibrine 7. 580
Fidelini 7. 580
Fieldfares 7. 580
Fig Cake 7. 582
Cream Ice 7. 582
Creams 7. 581
Dessert 7. 582
Dried 7. 582
Pastilles 7. 582
Pudding 7. 582
Salad 7. 581
Shape 7. 583
Fig-Peckers 7. 583
Baked, with Mushrooms 7. 583
in Cases 7. 583
Figs 7. 580
Compote of 7. 581
Green 7. 581
Preserved 7. 581
Preserved, Ripe 7. 582
Stewed 7. 583
Stuffed 7. 583
Filbert Balls 7. 584
Biscuits 7. 584
Butter 7. 584
Candied Paste Bonbons 7. 584
Cracklings 7. 584
Cream Ice 7. 585
Cream Ice, and Citron 7. 584
Compote 7. 584
Croquettes 7. 585
Filberts 7. 583
Imitation 7.585
Sugared 7. 585
Fillet of Beef 7. 1 15
a la Broclie 7.115
a la Chateaubriand 7. 115
a la Gouffe 7.116
a la Mirabeau 7. 116
a la Hollandaise 7.116
Baked, with Truffles 7. 98
Boiled, with Poached Eggs 7. 107
Braised, Larded, Garnished with
Tomatoes 7. 109
Broiled 7.111
Fried, Sliced 7. 117
in Aspic 7. 1 15
in Continental style 7. 116
Fillet of Beef in Flemish style 7. 116
in Jelly 7. 116
in Neapolitan style 7. 116
Larded and Baked 7. 98
Marinaded, Sautes 7. 126
Polish Method of Cooking 7. 121
Roasted 7. 123
Roasted as in Poland 7. 123
Roasted, with Piquant Sauce
7. 123
Roasted, with Plain Sauce 7. 123
Stewed, with Olives 7. 128
Stewed, with Oysters 7. 128
to resemble Roasted Hare 7. 125
with Bearnaise Sauce 7. 115
with Macaroni 7. 116
Fillets 7. 585
Bloater 7. 157
Cod 7. 416
Minion 7. 945
of Grouse Sautes 7. 722
Salmon 77. 304
Filters and Filtering 7. 585
Financiere Sauce 77. 388
Fine Herbs 7. 586
Sauce 7. 586
Vinegar 7. 586
Fingers, Cheese 7. 348
Fiorano 7. 586
Firkin 7. 587
Fish 7. 587
Aiguillettes of i. 5
au Gratin 7. 590
Baked Fillets of 7. 589
Baking 7. 588
Balls or Croquettes 7. 590
Bar 7. 74
Barbel 7. 7 4
Bass 7. 82
Bleak 7. 157
Bluefish 7. 158
Boiling 7. 588
Boudins, a la Soubise 7. 590
Boning 7. 167
Braising 7. 589
Brancino 7. 175
Bream 7. 193
Brill 7. 195
Broiling 7. 589
Broiled, Scalded 7. 589
Broth 7. 590
Cakes 7. 590
Carp 7. 297
Catfish 7. 318
Char 7. 335
Chartreuse 7. 589
Chowder 7. 591
Chub 7. 386
Coal Fish 7. 401
Codfish 7.412
Cold Boiled, a la Vinaigrette 7.589
ConsomriK? 7. 591
Creamed, with Oysters 7. 589
Cunner 7. 491
Curried 7. 589
Cusk 7. 507
Cutlets 7. 591
Dass 7. 512
Dace 7. 512
Dentex 7.518
Dressed a la Bouillabaisse 7.590
Eelpout 7. 549
Essence 7. 590
Filleting 7.589
Flounders 7.598
Flukes 7.600
Forcemeat 7.591
Fresh water, Baked in a Crust
7.595
Fish Fritters 7.591
Frost 7.651
Frying 7.589
Garfish 7. 668
Glaze 7. 591
Gravy 7. 591
Grayling 7.715
Grilse 7.721
Gurnets 7. 729
Haddocks 7.730
Hake 7.735
Half-Fish 7.735
Halibut 7.735
Hashed 7. 595
Herrings 7.760
Houchen 7.773
in a Potato Border 7. 593
in Aspic Jelly 7. 590
Jelly 7. 592
John Dory 7. 789
Ivingfish 7.799
Kipper 7. 7 99
Klipfish 7. 801
Ling 7. 862
Loach 7. 865
Mackerel 7. 897
Malma 7. 905
Marinade for 7. 912
Minnow 7. 945
Mooloo 7. 592
Muskellunge 7. 966
Normandy fashion, in 7. 592
Omelet 7. 592
Parr 77. 90
Patties 7. 592
Perch 77. 149
Pickled 7. 595
Pie 7. 592
Pike 77.185
Pilau 7. 593
Pilchards 77. 191
Pipers 77. 199
Plaice 77. 202
Pompano 77. 214
Potted 7. 595
Puddings 7. 593
Ouenelles 7. 593
Rechauffe 7. 595
Rissoles 7. 594
Roach 77. 340
Rockfish 77. 342
Roes Fried 7. 595
Royans 77. 348
Rudd 77. 348
Salad 7. 594
Salmon 77. 361
Salmon-Trout 77. 3 7 3
Salted 7. 595
Sandwiches 7. 594
Scad 77. 409
Scalloped 7. 595
Scalloped, Roes 7. 596
Scorched Salted 7. 596
Seibling 77. 415
Shads 77. 433
Sheep’s Head 77. 446
Shell 77. 446
Silversides 77. 451
Skate 77. 452
Smelts 77. 456
Smoked 7. 596
Smothered 7. 596
Soles 77. 463
Soup 7. 594
S piced 7. 596
Spot 77. 506
Sprats 77. 506
Stew 7. 595
Stewed 7. 596
COD A L’ANGLAIWK.
MEDITERRAXEAX MILLET IX JELLY.
PISH REMOVES.
■
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
849
Fish, Stuffed 7. 5G6
Sturgeon ii. 527
Sword 77. 553
Tamarind ii. 565
Tench ii. 581
Toast i. 595
To Carve i. 310
Trout ii. 618
Tunny ii. 636
Turbot ii. 637
Vinaigrette i. 596
Vol-au- Vents i. 597
Weevers ii. 761
Whitebait ii. 767
Whitefish ii. 768
Whiting ii. 769
Zanders ii. 801
Fisherman’s Salad ii. 357
Soup ii. 483
Fish-liver Sauce 7. 592
Fizz Whiskey ii. 767
Flageolets i. 91, 597
Flamand i. 597
Flame Cake i. 235
Pudding ii. 259
Flamus i. 597
Flank, Beef, of, Rolled i. 125
Flannel Cakes i. 235
Crumpets i. 484
Flash i. 597
Flat Cake i. 235
Flavourings i. 597
Almond i. 12-14
Bay -leaf i. 88
Brandy i. 176
Cardamom i. 294
Cinnamon i. 391
Coriander i. 438
Extract of Peppermint for ii. 147
Garlic i. 668
Hickory- nut i. 765
Lemon i. 843
Nutmeg ii. 14
Oyster Powder for ii. 79
Peach-leaves ii. 136
Vanilla ii. 676
Flawns i. 597
Apple 7. 29
Apricot 7. 41
Cherry i. 358
Swiss i. 598
Turkish i. 598
Flemish Cream i. 598
Sauce ii. 388
Soup ii. 483
Flesh i. 598
Flet Milk i. 598
Flips i. 598
Ale i. 7
Egg i. 556
Float Apple i. 29
Floating Islands of Cream i. 47 1
Florador i. 598
Florentine Mode of preparing Apples
i . 38
Florida Salad ii. 357
Flounders au Gratin i. 599
Baked i. 598
Boiled i. 598
Boudins i. 599
,Salad i. 599
Water-Souchet i. 599
Flounders i. 598
Fricassee i. 599
Fried i. 599
Miroton i. 599
Newhaven Mode of Cooking i. 599
Flour i. 599
Baked i. 600
Flour, Boiled i. 600
Browned i. 600
Graham i. 708
Liaison of i. 861
Potato ii. 233
Vienna ii. 745
Yam ii. 799
Flukes i. 600
Baked i. 600
Soup 7. 601
Flummery 7. 601
American i. 601
Chocolate i. 601
Dutch i. 601
English i. 601
French i. 601
German i. 602
Melon in Jelly i. 601
Prussian i. 602
Raspberries, with i. 601
Rhubarb, with 7. 601
Turkish i. 602
Flutes i. 602
Foam Omelet ii. 21
Sauce ii. 400
Fogosch i. 602
Foies Gras 7. 602
Folding Serviettes ii. 417
Fondants i. 602
Chocolate 7. 602
Cocoa-nut i. 409
Fondues i. 602
a la Ndapolitaine i. 603
Cheese i. 348
made with Italian Paste i. 603
with Truffles 7. 603
Food i. 603
Arrowroot i. 47
Nerve ii. 4
Preserving 7. 604
Foods in Season ii. 413
Fools i. 604
Apple i. 29
Cherry i. 358
Gooseberry i. 704
Mango i. 907
Orange ii. 38
Strawberry ii. 520
Forcemeats i. 604
Almonds i. 14
American i. 604
Balls i. 604
Balls, Curried Beef 7. 114
Balls, Curry i. 505
Balls for Turtle Soup ii. 665
Balls, Veal ii. 715
Beef i. 116
Brains i. 174
Calf’s Liver and Bacon i. 277
Clam i. 396
Croquettes of Beef and Potatoes
i. 117
Cutlets with Green Peas i. 605
Fish i. 591
Fowl i. 620
Game i. 605, 664
Hard-boiled Eggs and Parsley i. 563
Hare i. 605
Lobster i. 873
Mushrooms i. 959
Mushroom Pie, and i. 605
Oyster ii. 76
Partridge ii. 104
Patties i. 605
Pheasant ii. 156
Pie i. 605
Pies, for i. 605
Pigeons, for i. 605
Pike ii. 189
Forcemeats, Pork, with Bacon ii. 219 >
Rissoles i. 605
Shrimps ii. 448
Sucking pig, for i. 605
Toasts i. 606
Truffle ii. 628
Turkey or Veal, for i. 606
Veal ii. 714
Whiting ii. 774
Forks i. 606
Fortunatus’ Pudding ii. 259
Fou-Fou Soup ii. 483
Four i. 606
Fowl i. 606
a la Barbarie i. 617
Baked i. 607
Ballotines 7. 607
Bechamel Sauce i. 617
Beef and, Pie 7. 617
Blanquette of i. 607, 608
Boiled 7. 608
Boning a i. 607
Boudins of i. 609
Braised 7. 610
Braised Fillets of i. 610
Broiled 7.611
Broth i. 617
Capilotade i. 612
Chartreuse i. 612
Chaudfroid i. 612
Chingara i. 613
Cold, Rechauffe with Rice Cream
i. 613
Consomme i. 618
Cooked in Valencia style i. 627
Cream i. 618
Creased i. 613
Cromeskies i. 618
Croquettes i. 618
Croustades i. 613
Cutlets i. 614, 620
Curried i. 613
Devilled i. 615
en Coquilles i. 617
Epigramme of, Fillets i. 615
Essence i. 615
Fillets i. 615
Forcemeat i. 620
Fricassee i. 627
Fried i. 630
Fried Fillets of i. 629
Fried in Butter i. 620
Fritters i. 620
Galantine i. 631
Glaze i. 621
Gravy i. 621
Grilled Legs i. 632
Ham and, Sandwiches i. 621
Hamburg 7.632
Hashed 7. 632
in Jelly 7. 621
Jelly 7. 621
Kebob 7. 621
Larded Fillets 7. 632
Legs of, en Papillotes 7. 632
Macaroni and, Pie 7. 621
Matelote 7. 633
Mayonnaise 7. 633
Mazarine 7. 633
Minced 7. 633
Montglas of, garnished with Jelly
7. 633
Moor 7. 948
Nouilles, with 7. 621
Orleys 7. 634
Pain of, a la Duchesse 7. 634
Pain of, with Jelly 7. 634
Panada 7. 634
Patties 7. 622
3 I
VOL. II.
850
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Fowl Pie 7. 622
Pilau 7. 622
Pot- Pie 7. 623
Potted 7. 634
Pressed 7. 634
Pudding 7. 623
Pulled 7. 635
Puree 7. 635
Puree, a la Turque 7. 623
Quenelles 7. 623
Rissoles 7. 624
Roasted 7. 635
Salad 7. 624
Sandwiches of Cold Roasted 7. 636
Sauce i. 624
Sautd 7. 624
Savoury Jelly, in 7. 626
Scalloped 7. 636
Smothered 7. 636
Souffles 7. 636
Soup 7. 626
Stewed 7. 636
Stuffing 7. 627
Supreme 7. 641
Supreme of Fillets 7. 640
Surprise Pie 7. 627
Terrapin, as 7. 627
Timbale 7. 641
Toad-in-a-Hole 7. 627
Tongue and Rolls 7. 627
Truffled 7. 642
Turban 7. 642
Yol - an - Vents with Croquettes
7. 627
with Stewed Pickle 7 627
Fowl’s Giblets 7. 642
Pie 7. 642
Stewed 7. 642
Fowl’s Liver Cake 7. 643
en Brochette 7. 643
en Papillotes 7. 643
Forcemeat 7. 643
Garnish, for 7. 643
in Cases 7. 643
Omelet 7. 643
Sauce 7. 643
Sautiis 7. 643
Stewed 7. 643
Stuffing for Birds 7. 644
Terrine 7. 644
Frangipane 7. 644
Flawn 7. 644
Paste 7. 644
Shape 7. 644
Tartlets 7. 644
F rankfort Pudding ii. 259
Sausages ii. 405
Frascati Cake i. 236
Freezers and Freezing i. 644
Freezing Mixtures 7. 645
French Beers i. 646
Black Pudding i. 154
Cake i. 236
Cider i. 646
Italian Pudding, and ii. 259
Pearl Barley 7. 78
Rock ii. 536
Roll Fritters i. 191
Roll Pudding 7. 191
Rolls i. 184
Salad ii. 357
Sauce ii. 389
Soup ii. 484
Sugar Plums or Dragees ii. 536
Toast i. 192
French Beans
a la Bretonne . 7. 90
ii l’Anglaise i. 90
a la Poulette i. 91
French Beans, Artichoke Bottoms with
i. 49
Boiled i. 90
Cream, with i. 90
Garlic, with i. 91
Garnishing, for i. 90
Gravy, with 7. 91
Kidney or i. 89
Parsley and Butter, with i. 91
Pickled i. 91
Plain boiled 7. 90
Salad i. 91
Salted Herrings, with i. 91
Sautds in Butter i. 91
Fresh Herrings i. 761
Friar’s Omelet ii. 21
Fricadelles 7. 646
Fricandeau i. 646
Beef i. 117
Fricassee i. 647
Beef i. 117
Calf’s Feet 7. 269
Cold Roasted Beef i. 117
Sauce ii. 389
White Haricot Beans i. 92
Fried Anchovies i. 21
Animelles i. 23
Apples i. 38
Artichoke Bottoms 7. 50
Bacon i. 65
Bass with Bacon 7. 84
Black Bass i. 84-
Bread i. 192
Bread Cakes i. 192
Bread Cases i. 192
Breadcrumbs i. 192
Cakes 7. 236
Haricot Beans 7. 92
Jerusalem Artichokes i. 51
Sliced Fillet of Beef i. 117
Steak i. 117
Friedrichshall i. 647
Bitter Water i. 3
Frijoles i. 647
Fritters 7. 647, ii. 233
Aigucbelle i. 647
ii la Bonne Femme i. 648
Almond Custard 7. 1 1
Anchovy i. 20
Apple i. 29
Apricot i. 41
Arrowroot i. 47
Baked with Custard 7. 647
Banana i. 71
Barley i. 79
Batter for i. 86
Beetroot i. 131
Bell i. 647
Berryvillc i. 647
Brain i. 173
Bread i. 188
Break-of Day i. 647
Cakes i. 648
Carrot i. 304
Cauliflowers i. 320
Celery i. 326
Chaudron i. 266
Cheese 7. 348
Cherry 7. 358
Clam i. 396
Cold Meat i. 922
Cornflour i. 441
Cow-Heel i. 447
Cream i. 466
Cream Cheese i. 351
Cucumber i. 487
Curd i. 494
Currant i. 504
Custard i. 508
Fritters, Danish i. 647
Dried Haddock i. 734
Egg i. 557
Egg-Plant Fruit i. 568
English i. 647
Fish i. 591
Flavoured with Vanilla i. 648
Fowl 7.621
French i. 647
French-Roll i. 191
Fruit 7.655
Fruit-Paste 7.656
German 7. 648
German Carnival 7. 648
Goose’s Fat- Liver 7. 699
Ham 7.740
Hollow 7. 648
Indian 7- 648
Italian 7. 648
Lemon 7. 843
Light 7. 649
Lobster 7. 873
Maizena 7. 905
Marie Louise 7. 649
Mixed 7.649
Mogador 7. 049
Nectarine 77. 3
Orange 77. 38
Oyster 77.76
Peach 77. 135
Pear 77. 1 43
Pine apple 77. 194
Pork 77. 219
Portuguese 7. 649
Puff 7.649
Pumpkin 77. 272
Regal 7. 649
Spanish 7. 649
Spinach 77. 501
Sponge 7. 650
SpongeCake 7.260,77.504
Strawberry 77.520
Turkish 7. 650
Turkish Cheese 7. 352
Yam 77. 799
Yeast 77. 803
F rizzled Beef 7. 118
Frogs 7. 650
au Blanc 7. 650
au Gratin 7. 650
Broiled 7. 650
Fricasseed 7. 650
Fried 7. 650
Salad 7.651
Stewed 7. 651
Frontignac 7. 651
Frost and Frosting 7. 651
Frost Fisli 7. 651
Frosting Caramel 7.290
Froth, Lemon 7. 843
Wine 77.788
Frozen Apricots 7. 44-
Biscuits 7.142
Meat, to Cook 7. 59
Pudding 77. 259
Fruit 7. 651
Bavaroise with Cream 7. 88
Bowl 7. 653
Bread 7. 192
Cake 7. 653
Chariot tte 7. 653
Chaudfroid 7. 653
Cheese or Cake 7. 654
Cobbler 7. 654
Cornflower Jelly and 7.654
Cream 7. 654
Cream-Ice 7.654
Croquenbouche 7. 643
Crusts 7. 654
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
851
Fruit, Darioles 7.655
Dried, Pickle 7. 653
Dumplings 7. 655
Flawn of, a la Viennese 7. 653
Foam 7. 655
Fritters 7. 655
Gateau 7. 655
Gimblettes 7. 655
Ice 7. 655
Jelly 7. 655
Juice Granito 7. 656
Juice, Preserved 7. 652
Paste Fritters 7. 656
Pickled, Unripe 7. 652
Pie 7. 656
Pilau 7. 656
Preserved in Ginger Syrup 7. 652
Pudding 7. 656
Pudding, and Batter 7. 653
Ratafia 7. 657
Rice Shape, and 7. 657
Salad 7. 657
Sauce 7. 657
Syrup, suitable for making Fruit
Drinks 7.657
Tablets 7. 657
Tart 7. 657
Tinned 7. 652
Trifle 7.657
Vinegar 7. 65S
Wine 7.658
F ruits, Bottled 7. 652
Brandied 7.652
Compote 7. 653
Glazed 7. 658
Greening, before Preserving 7. 642
in Jelly 7.656
Macedoine 7. 658
Muscovite Dish 7. 658
Timbale 7. 659
Vol-au-Vent 7. 659
with Crusts 7. 654
Frumenty 7.659
Somersetshire 7.659
Turkish 7. 659
Fry 7.659
Italian 7. 779
Lamb’s 7. 821
Pig’s 77. 172
Frying 7. 65!)
Batter for 7.87
Fuel 7. 660
Fumet 7. 660
of Game 7.663
l’un Pudding 77. 259
Fusel Oil 7. 660
Galantine 7. 660
Beef 7. 118
Boar’s Head 7. 160
Eel 7. 545
Fowl 7. 631
Grouse 7. 722
Turkey 77. 650
Veal 77. 693
Wild Boar’s Head 7. 161
Galettes 7. 660
Gal 1 7. 66 1
Gal lim aw fries 7.661
Gallino 7.661
Gallon 7. 661
Galoni 7. 661
Game 7. 66 1
Bouchees 7. 662
Bouchees with, Puree 7. 170
Chaudfroid, Sauce 7. 662
Chestnut Forcemeat Balls, and
7. 663
Consomme 7. 663
Cream 7. 662
Cromeskies 7. 663
Croquettes 7. 663
Cutlets 7. 664
Devilled 7. 662
Fillets of, in Cases 7. 6G2
Forcemeat 7. 664
Fumet 7. 663
Garnish for 7. 670
Glaze 7. 664
Gravy, for Mutton 7. 664
in Aspic Jelly 7. 663
Marinade for 7.912
Minced 7. 666
Partridges 77. 93
Pheasants 77. 152
Pie 7. 664
Potted 7. 666
Ptarmigan 77. 251
Ravioles of, in Consomme 7. G67
Rice Patties, in 7. 665
Rissoles 7. 665
Salad 7. G65
Salmis 7. 667
Souffles 7. 666
Sou]) 7. 666
Stock 7. 666
To carve 7.312
Vol-au-Vent of, Cold 7. 6G7
Gammon 7. 667
Garbure 7. 667
Garden Parties 7. 667
Garfish 7.668
Garlic 7. 668
as a Vegetable 7. 668
Butter Sauce 7. 668
Extract of 7. 668
Flavouring for 7. 668
Pickled 7. 668
Sauce 7. 668
Vinegar 7. 668
Garnish 7. 669
Admiral 7. 669
Artichoke Bottoms for 7. 49
Bayard 7. 669
Bordeaux 7. 669
Ghambord 7. 669
Chestnut 7. 366
Chipolata 7. 669
Ghivry 7. 669
Commodore 7. 669
Crayfish 7. 459
Durand 7. 669
D'Uxelles 7.669
Fermiere 7. 669
Finaneiere 7. 669
Flemish 7. 670
Forest of Senart 7. 670
for Game 7. 670
Godard 7.670
Gourmet 7. 670
Greek 7.670
Hussard 7. 670
Journeaux 7. 670
Mariniere 7. 670
Matelote 7.670
Milanese 7. 670
Montebello 7.670
Normandy 7. 670
Parisian 7. 67 1
Garnish, Paysanne 7. 67 1
Provencal 7.671
Providence 7. 67 1
Reform 7.671
Regency 7. 67 1
Rouen 7. 67 1
St. Nazaire 7.671
Scarlet 7. 67 1
Soubise 7. 67 1
Supreme 7.671
Toulouse 7. 67 1
Turtle 7. 67 1
Valencia 7. 67 1
Vanderbilt 7.672
Vegetable floating, for Soups 77.
728
Garnishing, Bread Crofttons for 7. 188
Brussels Sprouts for 7. 207
Cabbage for 7. 220
Carrot for 7. 304
Cauliflower for 7. 321
Cepes for 7. 330
French Beans for 7. 90
Mushroom 7. 961
Tomatoes for 77. 601
Garum 7. 672
Gas 7. 672
Gascony Butter 7. 216
Gaspacho 7. 672
Gastronomy 7.672
Gateaux 7. 672
Cherry 7. 358
Gattinara 7. 672
Gauffres or Gauffers 7. 672
Gazogenes 7.672
Gelatine 7.672
Cream Ice 7. 672
Ice 7. 673
Jelly 7. 673
Puddings 7. 673
Geneva 7. 673
Biscuits 7. 142
Buns 7. 210
Cakes 7. 236
Sauce 7. 673, 77. 389
Genoa Cake 7. 237
Salad 77. 357
Sauce 77. 389
Toast 7. 192
Genoese Pastry, Almond 7. 12
Gentian 7. 673
Geranium 7.673
German Beer Soup 7. 130
Beverage 7. 134
Biscuits 7. 142
Black Pudding 7. 155
Buns 7.210
Cake 7. 238
Imperial Soup 77.484
Omelet 77.21
Pudding 77.259
Rhine Wine Punch 77.274
Rolls 7. 185
Salad 77 357
Sauce 77.389, 400
Sausages 77.405
Sou]) 77.484
Toast 7.192
< lertrude’s Pudding 77. 260
Ghee 7.673
Gherkins* 7.673
Preserved 7.674
Sauce 7.674
Toasts 7. 674
Gibelotte 7.674
Giblets 7.674
Duck's 7.535
Haricot of 7.676
Pie 7.674
852 TEE
Giblets Sauce 7. 675
Soup 7.675
Stewed 7.676
Stuffing for Turkeys 7.676
Turkey 77. 658
Gigot 7.676
Gilang 7.676
Gilkas 7. 676
Gimblettes 7.676
Gin 7.676
Black Currant 7. 496
Clove 7. 401
Cloves and, Nip 7.676
Orange 77. 38
Punch 7. 676
Red Currant 7. 498
Sling 7. 677
Smash 7. 677
Ginger 7. 677
Apple 7. 30
Beer 7. 677
Biscuits 7.678
Brandy 7.678
Brandy Liqueur 7.678
Buns 7. 678
Cake 7.678
Candy 7.679
Cocktail 7. 405
Cordial 7.679
Cream 7. 680
Cream Ice 7. 680
Cup Puddings 7. 680
Drink 7. 680
Drops 7. 680
Essence 7. 677
Gin 7. 680
Green 7. 683
Ice 7. 680
Imitation Preserved 7. 683
Loaf 7. 680
Lozenges 7. 680
Lump 7. 680
Melons, to Imitate 7. 931
Pancakes 7. 681
Pastille Drops 7. 681
Powder 7.678
Preserved 7. 684
Pudding 7. 681
Rhubarb 77.319
Sauce 7. 682
Snaps 7. 682
Souffle 7. 682
Sugar 7. 682
Syrup 7. 682
Tablets 7. 682
Tincture 7. 684
Wafers 7.682
Water Ice 7.683
Wine 7.683
Gingerade 7. 677
Gingerbread 7. 684
American 7. 684
Canadian 7. 684
Excelsior 7. 685
Pairy 7.685
Fingers 7. 685
Flavoured with Orange 7. 686
French 7. 685
Honeycomb 7. 686
Imitation 7. 688
Imitation, Cake 7. 688
Lafayette 7. 686
Nuremberg 7. 686
Nuts 7. 685
Parliamentary 7. 687
Queen’s 7. 687
Rich 7. 687
Soft 7. 687
Spiced 7- 687
ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL
Gingerbread, Sponge 7. 687
Squares 7. 686
Sweet 7. 687
Thin 7. 687
Transparent 7 687
Wafer 7.687
Wellington 7. 688
White 7. 688
with Cocoa-nut 7. 685
with Molasses 7. 685
Gingerette 7. 680
Gizzards 7. 689
Glacd 7. 689
Glace de Viande 7. 689
Glair 7. 689
Glass 7. 689
Glasses, Wines and Liqueur 77.791
Glaze Game 7. 664
Glazing and 7. 689
Meat 7. 689
Glazed Apple Marmalade 7. 38
Fruits 7. 658
Gloria 7. 425
Gloucester Cakes 7. 238
Cheese 7. 344
Pudding 77. 260
Glucose 7. 690
Gluten 7. 690
Bread 7. 181
Gems 7. 690
Mush 7. 690
W afers 7. 690
Gnocchi 7. 690
French 7. 690
Fried 7. 690
Milanese 7. 691
Soup 7. 691
Sweet 7. 691
Timbale 7. 691
Venetian 7. 692
with Cream 7. 691
with Potatoes 7. 691
with Semolina 7. 691
Goat 7. 692
Godard Sauce 77. 389
Godiveau 7. 692
Pie 7. 692
Gold Cake 7. 238
Golden-Ball Pudding 77. 260
Buck 7. 351
Crusts 7. 192
Pudding 77. 260
Sauce 77. 400
Syrup 77. 555
Goose 7. 692
Aspic Jelly, in 7. 693
Baked 7.693
Collared 7. 693
Devilled 7. 693
Fat 7. 696
Fat Liver 7. 697
Giblets 7. 696
Giblet Pie 7. 696
Green, or Gosling 7. 697
Hashed, a la Lyonnaise 7. 694
Indian Dumpode 7. 694
Livers Stewed 7. 697
Mock 7. 694
Pickled 7. 694
Pie 7. 693
Potted 7. 695
Pudding 7. 707
Ragoht 7. 694
Roasted 7. 695
Sandwiches 7. 694
Sauce for 77. 396
Smoked 7. 695
Stewed 7. 695
Wild 77. 7 7 7
COOKERY.
Gooseberries 7. 702
Bottled, Green 7. 703
Bottled, Ripe 7. 703
in Jelly 7.705
Preserved 7. 707
Gooseberry Cheese 7. 703
Chutney 7. 703
Cream 7. 703
Cream Ice 7. 703
Cream Tarts 7. 703
Currant and, Jam 7. 704
Fool 7. 704
Jam 7. 704
Jelly 7. 704
Pancakes 7. 705
Pie 7. 705
Pudding 7. 705
Sauce 7. 705
Shape 7. 705
Souffle 7. 706
Tart 7. 706
Trifle 7. 706
Vinegar 7. 706
Wine 7. 706
Gorgonzola Cheese 7. 344
Gotham Pudding 77. 260
Gothic Sauce 77. 389
Gourami 7. 707
Gourds 7. 707
Gourmands and Gourmets 7. 707
Gourmet’s Soup 77. 484
Governor’s Sauce 77. 402
Graham -Flour 7. 708
Bread 7. 182
Cakes 7. 708
Gems 7. 708
Wafers 7.708
Grains of Paradise 7. 708
Grand Champagne 7. 708
Grandfather’s Nightcap 77. 5
Grands Vins 7. 709
Granite Ice, Lemon 7. 843
Granito 7. 709
Sherry 77. 447
Grape Drink 7.710
Ice 7.710
Jam 7.710
Jelly 7.710
Pudding 7. 710
Ratafia 7.710
Trifle 7.710
Wine 7.710
Grapes 7. 709
Compote 7. 709
Frosted 7. 709
Glazed 7.710
Jelly, in 7.710
Pickled 7. 7 1 1
Preserved 7. 7 1 1
Graters 7.711
Gratin 7. 7 1 1
Gratinated Batter 7. 87
Gratzer Beer 7.712
Gravies 7.712 ,
Colouring for 7. 712
Plain 7.713
Thick 7.714
Gravy for Special Purposes 7. 714
Game, for Mutton 7. 664
Kidney 7.797
Made without Meat 7.714
Meat 7. 920
Shallot 77. 436
Soups 7.715
Soup, Veal 77.715
Stock 7. 712
Veal 77.715
Grayling 7.715
Grayling, Fried 7.716
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
853
Gray Mullet, Baked 7. 953
Boiled 7. 953
Braised 7. 954
Broiled 7. 954
Fillets of 7. 954
Matelote, a la 7. 954
Soup a la Turque 7. 954
Stewed 7. 954
Grease 7.716
Green Apricot Compote 7. 44
Bacon 7. 62
Butter 7. 216
Colouring 7. 427
Corn 7. 776
Crabs 7. 716
Currant Jam 7. 498
Ginger Beer 7. 683
Ginger Juice 7. 683
Gooseberries, Bottled 7. 703
Goose or Gosling 7. 697
Sauce 77. 389
Soup 77. 484
Greengage, Apricot and, Jam i. 717
Bouchees i. 717
Cream Ice 7.717
Jam 7.717
Paste 7.717
Paste, Candied Knots 7. 716
Souffle 7.717
Tart 7.717
Tartlets 7.717
Toast 7.718
Water Ice 7.718
Wine 7.718
Greengages 7.716
Bottled 7.716
Compote 7.716
Dried 7.716
Preserved 7. 718
Stewed 7.719
Greening 7.719
Green Peas 77. 125
Dried 77. 129
Turned 77. 129
Greens' 7.719
Grenades 7.719
Cherry Sauce with 7.719
Grenadines 7.719
Beef 7. 100
Veal 77. 693
Griddle 7.719
Girdle Cakes, or 7 238
Gridirons 7.719
Grignolino 7. 7 20
Grillade 7. 720
Grilling 7.720
Grill Sauce 77. 390
Grilse 7.721
Griskin 7.721
Groats 7. 721
Fried 7. 721
Gruel 7.721
Pudding 7. 721
Grocery 7. 721
Grog 7.721
Ground Rice Biscuits 77. 324
Blanc-mange 77. 324
Buns 77. 324
Cocoa-nut and, Pudding 77. 325
Cream 77. 325
Custard 77. 325
Dumplings 77. 325
Flummery 77. 325
Fritters 77.325
Hasty Pudding 77. 325
Honey and, Pudding 77. 326
Milk 77. 326
Snow 77. 326
Souffle 77. 326
Ground Rice Soup 77. 326
Grouper 7. 721
Grouse 7.721
Braised 7.721
Broiled 7. 722
Cromeskies 7.722
Fillets of, Sautes 7. 722
Fried, Cutlets 7. 722
Fried with Breadcrumbs 7.722
Galantine 7. 722
Larded 7.724
Pie 7. 723
Roasted 7. 724
Salad 7. 724
Salmi 7. 724
Salmi of, with Truffles 7. 724
Soup 7. 723
Stewed 7.724
Stewed a l’Ailsa 7. 724
Supreme a la Richelieu 7. 725
Gruel 7. 725
Barley 7. 7 9
Brandy 7. 176
Cornflour 7. 442
Currant 7. 504
Egg 7. 558
English 7. 725
German 7.725
Groat 7.721
Hamburg 7. 725
Maizena 7. 905
Norwegian 7.725
Oatmeal 77. 15
Onion 77. 26
Rice 77. 332
Sago 77. 354
Scotch 7. 725
Water 7. 725
Wheat-flour 77. 764
Grunts 7. 7 25
Gray ere Cheese 7. 344
Guarana 7. 725
Guarapo 7. 725
Guava 7.725
Cheese 7. 7 26
Jelly 7. 726
Jelly, Imitation 7. 726
Gudgeon 7. 726
Fried 7. 726
Matelote 7. 726
Guernsey Cake 7. 239
Buns 7. 210
Guignolet 7. 726
Guinea Fowls 7. 727
Braised, Larded 7. 727
Broiled 7.727
Roasted 7. 7 27
Salad 7. 727
Soup 7. 727
Guinea Pigs 7. 727
.Cavy aux Fines Herbes 7. 728
_ Cavy en Gibelotte 7. 72T
Guisado 7. 728
Gum 7.728
Drops 7. 728
for Adhesive Labels 7. 169
Milk 7. 728
Paste 7. 728
Pastilles 7.728
Syrup 7. 728
Syrup of 77. 555
Water 7. 728
Gurnet, Baked 7. 729
Boiled 7. 730
Fillets, Fried 7.730
Fillets of, a lltalienne 7. 730
Gurnards or 7. 729
Hach6 7. 730
Haddocks 7. 730
Baked 7. 731
Baked, Smoked 7.733
Boiled 7. 731
Boiled, Dried 7.733
Broiled 7. 7 32
Broiled, Smoked 7.734
Creams 7. 733
Dried 7. 733
Dried, Fritters 7.734
Dried, Toast 7. 734
Dried, with Tomatoes 7. 734
Fillets of, Sautes 7. 732
Fresh 7.730
Fried 7.732
Fried, Smoked 7.734
Grilled 7.732
Maitre d’Hotel 7. 732
Puddings 7.733
Sir Walter Scott, a la 7. 733
Soup 7. 733
Toasts 7. 733
Haggis 7. 734
Imitation 7. 735
Hake 7. 7 35
Fried Cutlets 7.735
Roasted 7.735
Stewed 7.735
Half-Fish 7.735
Halibut 7. 735
Baked 7.736
Boiled 7. 736
Broiled 7. 736
Fried, Steaks 7. 736
Stewed, Collops 7. 736
Toasts 7.736
Ham, Baked 7. 737
Boiled 7.737
Braised 7.738
Broiled 7.738
Chicken Pie and 7.739
Chicken Polonies and 7,739
Cold Boiled, with Aspic Jelly 7. 738
Collops a la Maitre d’Hotel 7. 740
Cooked in Cider 7.740
Croquettes 7.740
Devilled 7.739
Egg Toasts, and 7.740
Eggs and 7.740
Essence of 7. 739
Forcemeat of 7.739
Fried 7. 739
Fritters 7.740
Frizzled 7.739
Madeira Wine, Cooked in 7.740'
Omelets 7. 740
Pie 7. 740
Potted 7. 742
Puirie 7. 741
Quenelles 7.741
Relish 7.741
Roasted 7. 742
Sandwiches 7.741
Sauce 7 741
Slices of, a la Mayonnaise 7. 742
Spiced 7.742
Steaks 7. 7 41
Steamed 7. 742
Stuffed 7.742
Toasts 7. 741
To Carve 7. 310
Veal 77.715
Wild Boar’s 7. 161
Hams 7. 736
854
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Hamburg Beef, Smoked i. 126
Bitters i. 150
Powder 7. 743
Hamburg Steak 7. 118
Hampshire Pudding ii. 260
Hanover Buns i. 2 1 1
Pudding it. 260
Sauce ii. 390
Hard Cakes i. 239
Sauce ii. 400
Tack 7. 743
Hardbake 7. 743, ii. 536
Almond i. 12
Cocoa-nut i. 409
Hare, a la Minute i. 746
au Chaudron 7. '7 46
Baked i. 743
Boudin of i. 743
Braised i. 7 44
Broiled i. 744
Cheese 7.747
Civet i. 744
Essence of i. 745
Fillet of Beef to resemble Roasted
i. 125
Fillets 7.745
Fried 7. 746
Fried Fillets i. 746
Cibelotte 7.746
Imitation i. 749
Imitation, Soup i. 749
Jugged i. 749
Larded Fillets of i. 750
Marinaded Fillets of i. 750
Minced i. 751
Pie i. 747
Potted i. 751
Roasted 7. 751
Salmis 7. 753
Sauce for 77.396
Shape 7.748
Soup 7.748
Stewed 7. 753
Stuffed Boned 7.754
Terrine 7.754
Timbales 7. 754
To Carve *.311
Veal Fate and 7. 749
Hare-Liver Sauce i. 747
Hare’s Livers, Forcemeat i. 746
Hare or Rabbit Sauce ii. 396
Hares 7 . 7 43
Backs, with Poivrade Sauce i . 7 47
Harem Pudding if. 260
Haricot 7. 756
of Veal ii. 694
Haricot Beans *.91
a la Maitre d’Hotel 7. 92
Baked *.91
Boiled i. 92
Boiled Pork and i. 92
Boiled, with Capsicum Butter i. 92
Fricassee of White 7. 92
Fried i. 92
Marrow and i. 92
Omelet i. 92
Panaches a la Maitre d’Hotel i. 92
Porridge i. 92
Potted i. 93
Preserved i. 93
Puree of i. 93
Puree for Soup i. 92
Puree of, a la Soubise i. 93
Puree of Red i. 93
Salad of Boiled i. 93
Soup i. 92
Stewed i. 93
Harlequin Balls ii. 536
Cake 7. 239
Hartshorn i. 756
Cream i. 756
Jelly *. 756
Harvey Sauce ii. 402
Hash 7. 756
Hashed Beef *".118
Boiled Beef i. 118
Corned Beef i. 118
Hashes, Sauce for u.396
Haslet i. 756
Hasty Pudding 7. 756, 77.260
Soup ii. 484
Haunch i. 757
of Boar a la Royale i. 161
Havre Cake i. 239
Hawthorn 7. 757
Flavouring i. 757
Hazel nuts i. 757
Cakes i. 757
Cream Ice i. 757
Heads i. 757
Lamb’s i. 819
Ox ii. 53
Pig’s ii. 172
Sheep’s ii. 439
Heart Cakes i. 248
Hearts 7. 757
Ox ii. 55
Sheep’s ii. 441
to Carve *1.311
Heat i. 757
Conductors * . 758
Heavy Cakes i. 239
Hedgehogs i. 759
Apple i. 30
Heidelberg Bishop 7. 148
Helena Pudding ii. 260
Helen’s Pudding u.260
Heloise Cake i. 239
Henrietta Bread 7. 182
Herb Beer 7. 759
Flavouring i. 760
Pie 7.760
Pudding 7.760
Puree of, with Vegetables 7.760
Soup 1.760
Tea 7.760
Vinegar 7.7 60
Herbs 7.759
Fine 7.586
Fried *. 759
Herb aml-Forcemeat Quenelles * . 7 60
Herefords Pudding u.260
Hermitage i . 7 60
Hermit Biscuits i. 142
Hermits 7. 239
Herring Pie *1. 762
Herrings 7.760
Fresh * . 761
Red 7.764
Salted *. 7 63
Salted, with French Beans *.91
Smoked 7.764
Ilet Pint 7.765
i Hickory-nuts 7.7 65
Hip Jam *‘.765
Marmalade *". 7 66
Sauce *. 7 66
I Hips 7.765
in Vinegar 7.766
I Preserved 7. 766
Hippocras 7. 700
\ Hockheimer or Hock 7.766
Hock or Hockheimer 7.766
Julep *. 7 66
Syrup i. 7 66
Hoe Cakes i. 239,766
Hog 7.766
Hogplum * . 7 63
Hogshead i. 766
Hokey-Pokey 7.766
Hollands i. 766
Holland Sauce ii. 387
Holmcroft Cake i. 240
Holstein Sauce ii. 390
Soup ii. 484
Homely Pudding u.260
Home-made Cake 7. 240
Hominy i. 76(i
Blanc mange i. 767
Boiled 7.766
* Cakes * . 7 67
Cheese-Cakes * . 7 67
Croquettes 7. 707
Fried 7. 767
Porridge 7.768
Pudding 7.768
Soup 7.768
Stewed 7.768
Honey 7.768
Biscuits 7. 7 69
Cakes 7. 7 69
Candy 7.769
Clarified 7.769
Drink flavoured with Cloves 7.769
Drops 77.536
Imitation 7.770
Lemon 7.844
Love Cakes 7.769
Nougat 7.769
Noyau 77. 12
Orange 77.39
Sweetmeats 7.770
Vinegar 7.770
Honeycomb 77.536
Biscuits 7.142
Gingerbread 7. 686
Lemon 7.844
Hops 7.770
Beer 7.770
Salad 7.770
Shoots 7.770
Tea 7.770
Ilorehound 7.770
Beer 7.770
Candy 7.770
Lozenges 7.771
Tea 7.771
Hollies or Orlys 7.771
Hors d’CEuvres 7.7/1
Horse-Mackerel 7.771
Horseradish 7.771
Butter 7.771
Sauce 7.771
Vinegar 7.772
Hot Baba Cake 7.61
Closets 7.773
Coffee and Soda-water 7. 425
Cross Buns 7.211
. Pint 7.765
Sauce 77. 402
Hotch-Potch 7.772
of Knuckles of Veal 77. 695
Houchen 7.773
Household Bread 7.182
H owtowdie 7.773
Humbles or Umbles 7.773
Hungarian Beef 7. 1 19
Wines 7.773
Hung Beef 7.119
Hunters’ Beef 7.12/
Pudding 77.261
Soup 77.484
Hunting Pudding 77.261
Hydrochloric Acid 7.773
Ilydromel 7.773
Hygiene 7.773
I Hyssop 7.773 .
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
855
I
Ice 5 773
Iceberg Punch ii. 274
Iced Biscuits 5 1 42
Cabinet Pudding **■ 261
Cake 5 240
Chocolate 5 380
Pudding ii. 261
Punch, with Pineapple and
Champagne *5 274
Swiss Pudding ii. 261
Tea ii. 577
Iceland Moss *.774
Ices 5 774
Apple 5 30
Apple Water 5 37
Apricot 5 41
Apricot and Pistachio 5 43
Asparagus 5 52
Baked 5 775
Banana Cream 5 70
Barberry Water 5 77
Bergamot Water 5 133
Black Currant Water 5 497
Bread Cream 5 187
Bricks, Variegated 5 775
Brown- Bread 5 191
Brown-Bread Cream 5 191
Burnt Almonds and Orange 5 14
Butter-milk Cream 5 218
Cakes 5 775
Caramel Cream 5 289
Champagne 5 332
Cherry 5 358
Cherry Cream 5 357
Cherry Pulp for i. 361
Cherry Water 5 363
Chocolate i. 377
Chocolate-cream *.376
Cinnamon Cream i. 391
Cinnamon Water 5 392
Citron 5 395
Citron Cream i. 394
Claret i. 398
Cocoa-nut 5 409
Cocoa-nut Cream 5 409
Coffee Cream 5 423
Cups *.775
Fruit 5 655
Gelatine 5 673
Ginger 5 680
Grape 5 710
Jam 5 781
Juniper- berry 5 792
Lemon Cream i. 842
Lemon Water i. 854
Madeira 5 904
Maraschino Cream 5 909
Melon Seed Water 5 930
Melon Water i. 930
Mulberry Water 5 963
N eapolitan ii. 2
N ougat Cream ii. 7
Noyau Cream ii. 12
Orange Cream ii. 36
Orange Granite ii. 39
Orange Water ii. 45
Orgeat Cream ii. 50
Peach ii. 135
Peach Cream ii. 134
Peach Water ii. 139
Pear Cream ii. 142
Pear Pulp for ii. 144
Pear Water ii. 145
Pine apple Cream ii. 193
Pine apple Water ii. 197
Ices, Pistachio Cream ii. 201
Pistachio Water ii. 202
Plum Cream ii. 208
Pomegranate Water *5 214
Pudding ii. 261
Pumpernickel 5 192
Punch Cream ii. 276
Punch Water *7.276
Quince Cream ii. 283
Raspberry and Almond 5 13
Raspberry and Currant ii. 309
Raspberry Cream ii. 308
Raspberry Water *'5 31.3
Ratafia Cream ii. 314
Red Cherry 5 364
Rhubarb Cream *7.319
Rose Cream ii. 346
Rose Water ii. 347
Rusk ii. 35 1
Shapes, Variegated 5 775
Souffle 5 775
Spanish-nut Cream ii. 497
Sponge i. 775
Sponge Cake Cream 5 260
Strawberry Cream ii. 519
Strawberry Water *7.525
Syrup for ii. 555
Tea Cream ii. 578
Truffle ii. 628
Vanilla and Strawberry ii. 680
Vanilla Cream ii. 677
Vanilla Water *7.681
Walnut Cream *7.757
Wine ii. 788
Wine Cream ii. 788 .
Icing 5 775
Almond Cakes, for 5 12
Chocolate 5 377
Chocolate Caramel 5 375
Coffee 5 424
Eclairs, for 5 539
Raspberry ii. 309
Sugar *.778
Imitation Alkermes 5 8
Apricots 5 44
Blackberry Brandy 5 153
Fruit Biscuits 5 143
Imperial *.776
Biscuits 5 143
Cake 5 240
Drink 5 134
Pudding ii. 261
Punch *7.274
Wine 5 776
Indian Cakes i. 240
Corn *.776
Corn, Tomatoes and ii. 601
Pinaree 5 134
Pudding *7.261
Punch *7.274
Sandwiches ii. 378
Sauce ii. 390
Indigo 5 778
Inferno 5 779
Infusion 5 779
Cowslips 5 448
Invalid Broth 5 204
Jelly 5 785
Invalid’s Digestive Soup ii. 485
Soup for ii. 492
Suet Milk for ii. 533
Ipecacuanha Lozenges 5 883
Irish Cake 5 240
Luncheon Cakes 5 240
Rolls *'. 185
Stew 5 779
Irving Punch *7.274
Isinglass 5 779
[ Isinglassine 5 779
Ita 5 779
Italian Bread 5 182
Cakes 5 240
Cream Cheese 5 344
Fry 5 779
Pudding *5 261
Salad ii. 357
Sauce *5 390
Soup ii. 485
Wines 5 779
Ivory *'. 780
J
Jack Snipe *'.780
Jam *'.780
Apple 5 30
Apricot 5 42
Bael 5 65
Barberry *'. 7 6
Blackberry 5 151
Blackberry, with Apples *’, 151
Black Currant *’. 496
Black Currant and Rhubarb *'. 497
Carrot 5 304
Cherry 5 359
Cherry and Raspberry *'. 361
Crab-apple *'. 453
Cranberry *'. 456
Currant *'. 501
Damson 5 514
Dumpling *'.781
Fritters *'-781
. Gooseberry 5 7 04
Gooseberry and Currant *'. 704
Grape *.710
Green Currant ii. 498
Greengage 5 717
Greengage and Apricot 5 717
Green Tomato ii. 595
Hip 5765
Ice 5 781
Mulberry 5 952
Peacli ii. 135
Pear ii. 143
Pine-apple ii. 194
Plum ii. 208
Plum and Damson ii. 208
Plum and Pear ii. 209
Pudding *.781
Puffs 5 782
Raspberry ii. 309
Raspberry and Cherry ii. 307
Raspberry and Currant ii. 308
Raspberry and Strawberry *'*'.311
Red and White Currant 5 502
Red Currant i. 498
Rhubarb ii. 319
Rhubarb and Ginger ii. 319
Roll 5 782
Rose ii. 346
Sandwiches *’. 782
Shaddock ii. 435
Strawberry ii. 520
Strawberry and Raspberry ii. 522
Tartlets 5 782
Tomato ii. 601
Vegetable Marrow **'.734
Jamun 5 782
j Japanese Salad ii. 357
| Jardiniere, a la *'.782
Salad ii. 35S
I Sauce ii. 390
856
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
J ardiniere, a la, Soup ii. 485
Jaune-mange i. 7S2
Jelly i. 783
a la Constantine i. 784
Apple i. 30
Apricot i. 42
Arrowroot i. 47
Ashberry i. 51
Aspic i. 54
Barberry i. 7 6
Barberry, with Apples i. 76
Beef i. 101
Biscuit i. 141
Blackberry i. 151
Black Currant i. 496
Brandy i. 176
Brawn in i. 178
Bread i. 188
Bread or Toast i. 190
Broth i. 784
Cakes i. 785
Calf’s Foot i. 268
Champagne i. 332
Cherry, in Mould i. 359
Cider i. 389
Citron i. 394
Claret i. 398
Cocoa Cream i. 407
Coffee i. 424
Coffee Liqueur i. 425
Cold Meat i. 922
Cornflour i. 442
Cow-Heel i. 447
Crab-apple i. 453
Cranberry i. 456
Cream i. 466
Curayoa i. 493
Currant Juice i. 501
Custards i. 510
Damson' and Bullace i. 513
Egg i. 558
Fillet of Beef in i. 116
Fish i. 592
for Invalids i. 785
Fowl i. 621
Fruit i. 655
Fruit and Cornflour i. 654
Gelatine i. 673
Gooseberry i. 704
Grape i. 710
Guava i. 176
Hartshorn i. 756
Iced Champagne and Fruit i. 333
Italian i. 784
Jamaica i. 784
Kidney and Tomato i. 799
Kirschenwasser i. 800
Kiimmel i. 804
Lemon i. 844
Madeira i. 904
Mango i. 907
Maraschino i. 910
Marbled Sweet i. 785
Marsala- Wine i. 913
Meat i. 920
Medlar i. 928
Milk i. 939
Mosaic Sweet i. 785
Moulds i. 783
Mulberry i. 952
Noyau ii. 12
Omelet i. 785
Orange ii. 39
i Parsley ii. 91
Peach ii. 135
Pear ii. 143
Perry ii. 151
Pig’s Feet and Ears ii. 170
Pine apple ii. 194
J elly, Pink i. 785
Plum ii. 208
Pomegranate ii. 214
Porter ii. 225
Port Wine ii. 225
Prune ii. 249
Puddings i. 785
Punch ii. 276
Quince ii. 283
Quince and Apple ii. 283
Raspberry ii. 310
Raspberry and Currant ii. 308
Red i. 786
Red Currant i. 498
Restorative i. 786
Rhubarb ii. 320
Rhubarb and Apple ii. 318
Ribbon i. 786
Rice ii. 332
Roll i. 785
Rum ii. 349
Russian i. 786
Sago ii. 354
Savoury i. 784, 787
Sherry ii. 447
Stock i. 785
Strawberry ii. 520
Sweet i. 783, 784, 786, 787, 788
Sweet Crystal i. 787
Tangerine Orange ii. 47
Tapioca ii. 568
Tarts i. 785
Tea ii. 578
Tea Cream ii. 578
Tipparee ii. 591
Tomato ii. 602
Tutti-Frutti ii. 673
Vanilla ii. 679
Veal ii. 716
Venetian i. 788
Wheat Starch ii. 765
Whipped Sweet, with Fruits i.
788
White Currant i. 501
Wine ii. 788
Jenny Lind Pudding ii. 261
Soup ii. 485
Jersey Wonders i. 788
Jerusalem Artichokes i. 50
" du Gratin i. 50
Baked i. 50
Boiled i. 51
Boiled, with White Sauce i. 51
Chips i. 50
Cooked in Italian style i. 50
Fried i. 51
Mashed i. 51
Onion Salad and i. 50
Sauce i. 50
Scalloped i. 51
Soup i. 50
Jessamine i. 788
Jesuits’ Tea i. 788
Jewfish i. 7S8
Jhal Frezee i. 789
Jiggers i. 789
John Dory i. 789
“ Johnny ” (or Journey) Cakes i. 240
Joints i. 790
Jorum i. 790
Josephine Cake i. 240
Jowl i. 791
Pig’s ii. 168
Jubilee Buns i. 211
Cakes i. 240
Juditlia i. 791
Jugged Soup ii. 485
Juglandine i. 791
Jugs i. 791
Juice, Lemon i. 845
Jujubes L 791
Black- currant i. 496
Liquorice i. 863
Juke’s Pudding ii. 261
Julep i. 791
Claret i. 398
Irish Whisky ii. 767
Lemon i. 844
Madeira i. 904
Mint i. 945
Orange ii. 39
Rum ii. 349
Julienne i. 791
Soup ii. 485
Almond i. 12
Jumbles i. 791
Junior United Pudding ii. 261
Juniper i. 792
Junk i. 792
Junket, Devonshire i. 519
Jus i. 792
K
Kabob i. 792
Cold Meat, Curried i. 922
Curried i. 7 92
Hunter’s i. 793
Indian i. 793
Liver i. 864
Persian i. 7 93
Turkish i. 793
Kale i. 793
Brose i. 203
Pan i. 794
Kali, Lemon i. 845
Kangaroo i. 794
lvava i. 7 94
Kedgeree i. 794
Green Peas ii. 127
Rice ii. 332
Salmon ii. 365
Turbot ii. 640
Kendal Pudding ii. 261
Kent Biscuits i. 143
Kern -Milk i. 795
Ketchup f. 795
Anchovy i. 20
Barberry i. 77
Cockle i. 405
Cucumber i. 487
Elderberry i. 571
Lobster i. 873
Mushroom i. 961
Oyster ii. 77
Tomato ii. 602
Walnut ii. 756, 758
Kettle Cake i. 240
Kettles i. 795
Khat i. 795
Kheer Rice ii. 332
Khoosh Bitters i. 795
Khulash i. 795
Kickshaws i. 7 95
Kid i. 7 95
Kidney or French Beans i. 89
Kidneys i. 796
Lamb’s i. 820
Ox ii. 55
Pig’s ii. 174
Sheep’s ii. 441
Tinned i. 798
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
857
Kilderkin 7. 7 99
Kingfish 7. 7 99
King Henry’s ShoeStrings 7. 839
Kingston Punch 77. 27 4
Kipper 7. 7 99
Kippered Salmon 77. 371
Kirschenwasser i. 800
Kirsch Punch ii. 27 4
Kishr i. 801
Kisses i. 801
Kissing Crust i. 801
Kitcheners i. 801
Kitchener’s Cooked Salad ii. 358
Sauce ii. 402
Kitchens i. 801
Klipfish i. 801
Klosse i. 801
Knack Sausages ii. 405
Kneaded Butter i. 216
Kneading i. 802
Kneading-trough i. 802
Knickerbein i. 802
Knife, Boning i. 167
Knives i. 802
Knoh Cakes i. 240
Knot i. 802
Knuckle i. 802
Kohl-Rabi i. 803
Kokum i. S03
Kosher i. 803
Kosher Pudding, Almond i. 1 2
Koumiss i. 803
Kourabiedes i. 803
Kraplen i. 803
Ivreat i. 803
Kreatine i. 803
Kringles i. 803
Kufte i. 804
Kiimmel i. 804
Kumquat i. 804
L
Labrador Tea i. 804
Lactic Acid i. 804
Ladies’ Punch ii. 27 4
Lady Cake i. 241
Lady’s Delight i. 804
Fingers i. 143
Lady Wrottesley’s Pudding ii. 262
Lafayette Cakes i. 241
Lager Beer i. 804
Lamb i. 804
Braised i. 807
Brochettes of i. 807
Broiled i. 808
Chops i. 810
Croquettes i. 810
Curried i. 808
Cutlets i. 810
Epigramm.es of i. 808
Fricassee of i. 809
Fried i. 809
Hashed i. 810
Minced i. 813
Pie i. 812
Pilau of i. 813
Ragout of i. 813
Roasted i. 814
Saddle of i. 805
Lamb Salad i. 813
Sautd, with Tomatoes i. 813
Shoulders of, to resemble Ducks
i. 815
Soup i. 813
Stewed i. 815
Lambie i. 825
Lamb’s Brains i. 817
Ears i. 817
Feet i. 817
Heads i. 819
Kidneys i. 820
Livers i. 820
Pluck or Fry i. 821
Stones i. 822
Sweetbreads i. 822
Tails i. 824
Tongues i. 824
Wool ii. 68
Lampreys i. 825
Lancer Pudding ii. 262
Lapland Bread i. 182
Lapwings i. 827
Lard i. 828
Cakes i. 828
Pastry i. 828
Larder i. 828
Larding i. 828
Needle 7.828
Lardoons i. 828
Lark Patties i. 831
Pie i. 83 1
Pudding i. 832
Raised Pie served Hot i. 832
Scallops in a Croustade i. 832
Soup i. 832
Larks i. 828
au Gratin i. 829
Baked i. 829
Broiled i. 829
Essence of i. 829
in Cases i. 830
in then- Nests i. 830
Roasted i. 832
Salmis of i. 832'
Stewed i. 832
Timbale of i. 833
Lavender i. 833
Drops i. 833
Lozenges i. 833
Laver i. 833
Lawn Sleeve i. 148
Layer Cake i. 241
Lead Cake i. 241
Leaf Cake i. 241
Leamington Pudding ii. 262
Leander Punch ii. 68
Lecha Crema i. 834
Lee Cake i. 241
Leeks i. 834
Left-over Soup ii. 486
Legumes i. 835
Leicester Cheese i. 344
Pudding ii. 262
Leighton Cake i. 241
Lemon Cream Ice i. 842
Kali i. 845
Mixture for Puddings i. 846
Pudding i. 848
Tincture of i. 856
Lemonade i. 854
Egg i. 558
Liqueur i. 855
Orange ii. 39
Powder i. 855
Syrup for ii. 555
Lemon-flavoured Biscuits i. 143
Lemon-juice, Preserved i. 856
Lemon-peel, Candied i. 836
Lemon-peel, Preserved i. 856
Lemons i. 835
Baked i. 836
Compote of i. 837
Essence of i. 837
Pickled i. 855
Preserved i. 856
Lenten Sandwiches ii. 378
Lentils i. 856
Stewed i. 858
with Rice i. 858
Lent Sausages ii. 405
Soup ii. 436
Leopard Cake i. 241
Lettuce Lozenges i. 883
Stalks, preserved i. 860
Lettuces i. 858
to cook i. 859
Leveret i. 754
Fried i. 754
Roasted i. 755
Stewed i. 755
Timbale of i. 756
Liaison i. 861
Lie or Sauce, Aspic i. 55
Light Biscuits i. 144
Bread i. 182
Cake i. 241
Pudding with Sabayon Sauce ii.
262
Tea Buns 7.211
Lightning Cake 7. 242
Lights 7. 861
Lilies of the Valley 7. 861
Lima Beans 7. 94
Cream 7. 94
Dried, boiled 7. 94
Sautes 7. 94
Limburger Cheese 7. 344
Lime juice Cordial 7. 862
Limes 7. 86 1
Limpets 7. 862
Lincoln Cheese 7. 344
Linen, Table 77. 560
Ling 7. 862
Linseed 7. 862
Tea 7. 862
Liqueur, Aim able Vainqueur 7. 435
Amer d’Angleterre 7. 435
Amour sans Fin 7. 435
Aqua Bianca 7. 435
Barbados Cream 7. 435
Barbados Water 7. 435
Baume Consatateur 7. 436
Baume des Grecs 7. 436
Black Currant 7. 496
Caraway 7. 292
Chartreuse 7. 340
Cherry 7. 359
Chine- Chine 7. 436
Christophelet 7. 436
Cinnamon 7. 391
Citron 7. 394
Clove 7. 401
Coca 7. 402
Cocoa 7. 407
Coffee 7. 424
Colouring Mixture for 7. 427
Coltsfoot 7. 427
Coquette Flatteuse 7. 436
Cordials, and 7. 434
Cream of Mint 7. 945
Creme de Macaron 7. 436
Creme Mojou 7. 436
Creme Romantique 7. 436
Creme Voizot 7. 436
Curapoa 7. 492
d’ Amour 7. 437
d’ Argent 7. 437
858
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Liqueur, tie Girofle 7. 437
de Muscade 7. 437
de Saute 7. 437
lies Eveques 7. 437
Doree Cordial 7. 436
Eau Aerienne 7. 436
Eau Carminative 7. 436
Eau Cordiale 7. 436
Eau d’Amour 7. 436
Eau d ’Argent 7. 436
Eau de Baal i. 436
Eau de Lisette 7. 437
Eau de Paix 7. 437
Eau de -Pucelle 7. 437
Eau des Abbes 7. 436
Eau des Favorites 7. 437
Eau des Prelats 7. 437
Eau Divine 7. 436
Eau d’Or 7. 437
Eau Forcifiere 7. 437
Eau Miraculeuse 7. 437
Eau Musettier i. 437
Gaite Franyaise 7. 437
Ginger Brandy 7. 678
Golden .Wasser 7. 437
Lemon i. 845
Lemonade 7. 855
Maraschino 7. 909
Masonic 7. 437
Nut ii. 13
Orange ii. 39
Parfait Amour i. 437
Peppermint ii. 148
Persicot i. 437
Quince ii. 284
Railroad i. 437
Raspberry ii. 310
Bose ii. 347
Rosolio i. 437
Samshoo ii. 377
Stomachic 7.438
Strawberry ii. 521
Usquebaugh i. 438
Vanilla 77.679
Vanilla Cream 77. 67 8
Verde 7. 438
Liquorice 7. 862
Liquors 7. 7
Litre 7. 863
Little Constance’s Pudding 77. 262
German Cakes 7. 242
Liver 7. 863
Bacon and, Broiled 7. 65
Calf’s 7. 275
Cod’s 7.418
Duck’s 7. 535
Goose’s Fat 7. 697
Lamb’s 7. 820
Ox 77. 56
Pig’s 77.174
Sheep’s 77. 444
Skate’s 77. 454
Livernaise Sauce 77. 390
Loach 7. 865
Loaf Cake 7. 242
Cheese 7. 345
Lobster 7. 866
a la Chef de Cuisine 7. 869
a la Creme 7.870
a la Bordelaise 7. 868
a la Diable 7. 870
a l’Americaine 7. 869
a la Provenyale 7. 870
a la St. Malo 7.870
au Gratin 7. 870
Baked 7. 867
Bisk of 7. 149
Boiled 7. 867
Boucliees 7.870
Lobster Brochettes 7. 870
i Butter 7. 870
Cake 7. 87 1
Chowder 7.871
Cream 7. 87 1
Croquettes 7. 87 1
_ Curried 7. 868
Cutlets 7. 872
Devilled 7. 868
en Casserole 7. 869
Forcemeat 7. 873
Fricassee 7. 873
Fried 7. 869
Fritters 7. 873
in Shells 7. 877
Ketchun 7. 873
Loaf or Cheese 7. 873
Mayonnaise 7. 87 4
Miroton of 7. 879
Omelet 7.874
. ‘Patties 7. 873, 874
Pie 7. 874
. Pilau 7. 875
Potted 7. 880
Pudding 7. 875
Rissoles 7. 875
Roasted 7. 880
Rolls 7. 875
Salad 7. 875
Salpifon of 7. 880
Sauce 7. 877 '
Saute 7. 877
Scalloped 7. 880
Souffle 7. 878
Soup 7.878
Stewed 7. 880
Timbales of 7.881
Tinned 7. 882
Toast 7. 879 ’
V ol au Veil t of 7. 88 1
with Tomatoes 7. 879
Locusts 7. 882
Logwood -7. 882
Loin 7. 882
London Buns 7. 211
Long-Life Lozenges 7. 883
Loquat 7. 882
Lord Mayor’s Cakes 7. 242
Lord of the Isles Punch 77. 27 4
Lorraine Soup 77/486
Louis Philippe Pudding 77. 262
Louvain Beer 7. 882
Louvernaise Cakes 7. 242
Lovage 7. 882
Love Cakes 7. 242
Love in Disguise 7. 882
Loving Cups 7. 882
Lozenges 7. 883
Aniseed 7. 23
Black Currant 7. 496
Cayenne and Catechu 7. 288
Cinnamon 7. 391
Clove 7. 40 1
Cocoa-nut 7. 409
Coltsfoot 7. 427
Ginger 7. 680
Horeliound 7. 77 1
Lavender 7. 833
Lemon 7. 845
Meat 7. 921
Nutmeg 77. 14
Orange 77. 39
Peppermint 77. 148
Pistachio Marzipan 77. 201
Spice 77. 499
Vanilla 77.67 9
Lunch Bread 7. 182
Cakes 7. 242
Luncheon Biscuits 7. 144
Luncheons 7. 884
Luster Cake 7. 242
Lyons Absinthe 7. 1
M
Macaroni 7. 884
Bacon with 7. 64
Cold Meat with 7. 923
To Cook 7. 884, 893
Tomatoes with 77. 602
Macaronied Beef 7. 119
Macaroons 7. 893
Macdonald Cakes 7. 242
Soup 77. 486
Mace 7. 897
Macedoine 7. 897
Beef of 7.il9
Fruits 7. 658
Salad 77. 358
Vegetables 77. 728
Macedonian Soup 77. 486
Macerated Beetroot 7. 132
Mackerel 7. 897
a l’ltalienne 7.901
Baked 7. 898
Boiled 7. 898
Boucliees au Laitance 7. 901
Broiled 7. 899
Cold 7. 900
Collared 7. 900
Devilled 7. 900
Fillets 7. 900
Fricassee 7. 901
Fried 7. 901
Grilled 7. 901
Pickled 7. 902
Potted 7. 902
Roasted 7. 902
Roes 7. 901
Rolled 7. 902
Salted 7. 902
Scalloped 7. 902
Soup 7. 902
Soused 7. 903
Stewed 7. 903
Made Dishes 7. 903
Madeira 7. 903
Buns 7.211
Cakes i: 242
Crusts 7. 904
Ice 7. 904
Jelly 7. 904
Julep 7. 904
Puddings 77. 202
Sauce 7. 904
Madeleine Cakes 7. *243
ii la Printaniere 7. 243
served with Cream and Port Vine
Sauce 7. 243
without Butter 7. 243
Madison Cake' 7. 244
Madonna Pudding 77. 262
Madrid Biscuits 7. 144 _ t
Sausages 77. 405
Magdalen Cake 7. 244
Magnum Bonum Biscuits 7. 144
Mahay a 7. 904
Mahia 7. 904
Maids of Honour 7. 904
Pudding 77. 262
Maigre 7. 905
Broth 7. 204
THE
Maintenon, a la 7. 905
Sauce 77. 390
Maintz Sausages 77. 405
M u- trank i. 54
M litre d 'Hi tel, a la i. 905
Butter i. 217
Sauce ii. 391
Maizena 7. 905
Bavarian Cream i. 905
Cake i. 905
Cream Tart i. 905
Fritters i. 905
Gruel i. 905
Jam Pudding i. 905
Omelet i. 905
Pancakes i. 905
Pudding i. 905
Malaga i. 905
Pudding ii. 262
■ Malakoff i. 905
Malaprop Cake i. 244
Malic Acid i. 905
Malma i: 905
Malmsey i. 906
Wine, Imitation of i. 906
Malt i. 906
Extract, or Food i. 906
Liquors i. 7
Wine i. 906
Malvasia i. 906
Malvern Pudding ii. 263
Mammee Apple i. 906
Manchester Pudding ii. 263
Mandarin i. 906
Mandoletti 7. 906
Mandram Sauce ii. 391
.Mange Coffee i. 425
Manger Apple i. 30
.Mango, Chutney i. 907
Fool i. 907
Imitation, Chutney i. 908
Imitation, Sauce i. 908
Jelly i. 907
Marmalade 7. 907
Pickle i. 907
Preserve i. 907
Puree i. 908
Sauce i. 908
Mangoes i. 906
Dried i. 906
Imitation Pickled i. 908
Pickled i. 90S
Mangold Wurzel i. 908
Beer i. 908
Mangostan i. 909
Manna i. 909
Mannacroup i. 909
Mannheim Rolls i. 185
Manon Cakes i. 244
Manque Cake with Rum i. 244
Manx Cake i. 244
Manzanilla i. 909
Maple Syrup ii. 555
Maraschino i. 909
Cheese i. 909
Conserve 7. 909
Cream i. 909
Cream Ice i. 909
Essence i. 909
Glaces i. 909
Jelly "i. 910
Meringues i. 910
Nip 7.910
Pudding 7.910
Punch 7. 910
Spongeade 7. 910
Toast 7. 910
Marble Cake 7. 244
Margarine 7. 910
ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. 859
Marien Cakes 7. 244
Marigolds 7.911
Cheese 7. 91 1
Conserve 7.911
Wine 7.911
Marinade 7.911
Marinaded Fillets of 'Beef 7. 126
Marjoram 7.912
Conserve 7.912
Marketing 7. 912
Marlborough Pudding 77. 263
Marmalade 7.912
Apple 7. 30
Apricot 7. 42
Barberry 7. 77
Carrot 7. 305
Cherry 7. 359
Egg 7. 558
Glazed Apple 7. 38
II ip 7. 7 66
Lemon 7. 845
Mango 7. 907
Mixed 7,913
Orange 77. 40
Peach 77.136
Pear- 77. 143
Pear and Quince 77. 144
Pine apple 77. 195
Plum 77. 208
Pudding 7.912, 77.263
Quince 77. 284
Raspberry 77.310
Royal 7.913
Sauce 7.913
Tomato 77. 603
Vegetable Marrow 77. 734
Violet 77. 749
Marolles Cheese 7. 345
Marque Pudding 77! 263
Marquise Pudding 77. 263
Marrowbones 7. 167
Haricot Beans and 7. 92
Ox 7. 56
Marsala 7.913
Marsala Wine, Imitation 7. 913
Jelly 7. 913
Soup 7.914
Marseillaise Biscuits 7. 144
Marshal’s Sauce 77. 391
Marsh Mallow 7. 914
Paste 7.914
Syrup 7.914
Toffy 7.914
Twists 7. 914
Martino, Salad 7. 914
Martinoes 7.914
Pickled 7. 914
Maryland Biscuits 7. 140
Marzipan 7.915
Cherry 7. 360
Lemon 7. 846
Masata 7. 915
Mashed Jerusalem Artichokes 7.51
Potatoes, Cold Meat with 7. 923
Mashing 7. 915
Masking 7. 916
Mastic 7. 916
Matelote, a la 7. 916
Barbel and Eel 7. 75
Normandy 7.916
Ragout 7.916
Sauce 77.391
White 7. 916
Matrimony Sauce 77.391
Matso Bread 7. 182
Maud’s Pudding 77. 263
Maxixe 7.916
May Drink 7.916
Mayonnaise 7. 917
Mayonnaise of Eels 7. 545
Fowl 7. 033
Lobster 7.874
Salmon 77. 365
Sauce 77. 391
Mazarin Cake with Rum 7. 244
Mazers 7. 917
Mead 7. 133, 917
Cowslip 7: 448
Soda Cream 7. 917
Syrup 7. 917
Walnut 77. 758
Meagre 7. 918
Meal 7. 918
Meat 7.918
Australian 7. 59
Cakes 7. 920
' Cold 7.921
Collared 7. 426
Corned 7. 439
Curried 7. 920
Fricassee 7. 920
Frozen, to Cook 7. 59
Gravy 7. 920
Jelly 7. 920
Jelly, Noix of Beef with 7. 120
Lozenges 7. 92,1
Matelote 7. 920
Pie 7.921
Porcupine 7.921
Raw 7. 919
Sauce for Roasted 77. 396
Saw 7.919
Soup 7. 921
Stuffing 7. 921
Tart 7. 92 1
Tea 7. 92 1
Tough 77. 611
Meat Safe 7. 9 1 9
Mecklenburg Punch 77.274
Sausages 77. 405
Medicated Aerated Water 7. 4
Medlar Cheese 7. 928
Jelly 7.928
Medlars 7. 928
for Dessert 7. 92S
Medoc 7. 929
Meg Merrili is Soup 77. 486
Melilot 7. ! 2 )
Melisse, Eau de 7. 929
Melon, Baked Stuffed Musk 7. 930
in Claret Jelly 7. 930
Stew 7. 930
Water 7. 932
Melons 7. 929
Compote 7. 930
Pickled 7.931
Preserved 7.931
Melting Cake with Sabayon 7. 244
Melton Mowbray Pie 77.-218
Melton Veal 77. 696
Menestra 7. 932
Menestrone 7. 932
Mengau 7. 932
Menschenfreund 7. 932
Menus 7. 932
Meringo Apple 7. 30
Meringues 7. 933
-a la Delmonico 7.933
Almond 7. 12
Apple 7. 30
Apple and Apricot 7. 26
Blackberry 7. 152
Cakes 7. 244
Chocolate 7. 377
Cornflour 7. 442
Cream 7. 467, 933
Florentine 7. 933
Iced 7. 933
860
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Meringues, Italian 7. 933
Kisses 7. 934
Lemon 7. 846
Lemon Cream Tart 7. 843
Maraschino 7. 910
Orange 77. 41
Orange and Rice ii. 43
Panachties i. 934
Peach ii. 136
Peaches and Rice ii. 137
Pineapple ii. 195
Pudding i. 934
Pyramid, in i. 935
Rice ii. 333
Shells i. 935
Strawberry ii. 521
Swiss i. 935
Tarts i. 935
with Jam i. 934
with Rice i. 935
with Strawberry Cream i. 935
Merissah i. 935
Merry Christmas Cake i. 245
Metheglin i. 133, 935
Red i. 935
White i. 935
Mexican Omelet ii. 21
Michael Pudding ii. 263
Midzu-Ame i. 935
Mikado Soup ii. 487
Milan Cakes i. 245
Sauce ii. 391
Milanese Batons i. 85
Soup ii. 487
Mildew i. 936
Military Sauce ii. 392
Milk i. 936
Almond i. 12
Artificial 7.51, 938
Asses’ i. 56
Barley i. 79
Biscuits i. 939
Boiled for Invalids 7. 938
Bread i. 182
Cakes i. 939
Cakes, Honey and i. 939
Cheese i. 345
Condensed i. 938
Crusts 7. 939
Dumplings i. 939
Jelly i. 939
Lemonade i. 939
Nuts, German i. 939
Onion Soup, and i. 940
Panada i. 940
Pie i. 940
Plum Porridge, and i. 940
Porridge i. 940
Pudding i. 940
Punch i. 940, ii. 27 4
Punch, Rum ii. 349
Punch Syrup i. 941
Rolls i. 185, 941
Sago ii. 354
Sheep’s ii. 444
Soup i. 941
Soup, Beer and i. 939
Spatzen i. 942
Thickened i. 942
Thickening, Indian i. 939
Toast i. 942
with Suet i. 942
Milkweed i. 942
Mille Fanti Soup ii. 487
Mille-Feuilles Cake 7.245
Millefleur Drops ii. 537
Millet 7. 942
Milt 7. 943
Milton Pudding 77. 263
Mince, Cold Meat 7. 923
Minced Apple 7. 38
with Croutons 7. 38
Minced Beef 7. 119
a la Portugaise 7. 120
a la Provenpale 7. 120
a l’Espagnole 7. 120
with Poached Eggs 7. 120
Minced Beef steaks 7. 120
Fried 7. 117
Mincemeat 7. 943
Banbury 7. 7 1
Egg 7. 558
Lemon 7. 846
Pudding 7. 944
Mince Pies 7. 944
Egg 7. 559
Lemon 7. 846
Minim’s Sauce 77. 392
Minion Fillets 7. 945
Minnows 7. 945
Mint 7. 945
Beer 7. 945
Chutney 7. 945
Cordial 7. 945
Cream of, Liqueur 7. 945
Juice 7. 945
Julep 7. 945
Sauce 7. 946
Vinegar 7. 946
Minute Pudding 77. 263
Mirepoix 7. 946
Sauce 77. 392
Mirin 7. 946
Mirlitons, Lemon 7. 846
MirOton 7. 946
Apples 7. 38
Beef 7. 120
Lobster 7.879
Miserables 7. 946
Mites 7. 946
Mixed Beans Panaches 7. 91
Sauce 77. 392
Mixture, Lemon Cheese-cake 7. 840
Mjodr 7. 946
Mocha Pudding 77. 264
Mock 7. 946
Bisk Soup 77. 487
Brawn 7. 178
Champagne 7. 33 1
Crab 7. 35 1
Oysters 77.375
Pigeons or Veal Birds 77. 707
Sweetbreads Casserole 7. 317
Terrapin, Calf’s Feet as 7. 268
Mock Turtle 77. 670
a la Franpaise 77. 670
Pie 77. 670
Soup 77. 670
Soup, Flavouring for 77. 670
Mode, a la 7. 946
Modena Cake 7. 245
Moisten 7. 946
Moist Macaroons 7. 896
Molasses 7. 946
Apple 7. 31
Beer 7. 946
Cake 7. 946
Candy 7. 947
Pudding 7. 947
Tart 7. 947
Toffy 7. 948
Vinegar 7. 948
Mole 7. 948
Monaco Soup 77. 487
Me gol Wine 7. 948
Monmouth Pudding 77.264
V .dalcino 7.948
T ltblanc Cake 7. 245
Montefiascone 7. 948
Montepulciano 7. 948
Monterobbio 7. 948
Montglas 7. 948
Montmorency Cake 7. 245
Montpellier Absinthe 7. 1
Butter 7. 217
Montreal Pudding 77. 264
Montrose Cake 7. 245
Moor F owl 7. 948
Morbadella 7. 948
Morels 7. 948
Moret 7. 949
Moringa 7. 949
Morocanella 7. 949
Moscata 7. 949
Moselle 7. 949
Cup 7. 949
Motto Lozenges 7. 884
Moulds 7. 949
Cylinder 7.511
Dome 7. 524
Flawn 7. 597
Jelly 7. 783
Orange 77. 41
Mountain Cake 7. 245
Mousse 7. 949
Caramel 7. 290
Mousseline Cake 7. 246
Pudding 77. 264
Moxie 7. 949
Muffin Cake 7. 95 1
Pudding 7. 951
Muffins 7. 949
Rice 77. 333
Rye 77. 352
Wheat-meal 77.7 65
Mulberry Compote 7. 952
Jam 7. 952
Jelly 7. 952
Salad 7. 95
S mash 7. 953
Syrup 7. 953
Water Ice 7. 953
Mulberries 7. 952
Mull 7. 953
Mulled Ale 7. 7
Chocolate 7. 380
Cider 7. 389
Claret 7. 398
Muller 7. 953
Mullet 7. 953
Gray 7. 953
Red 7. 954
Mulligatawny Mutton 7. 989
Soup 7. 953, 77. 487
Mum 7. 957
Muscovite Dish of Fruits 7. 658
Punch 77. 275
Mush 7. 957
Cracked- wheat 77. 7 64
Mushroom Garnishing 7. 961
Ketchup 7.961
Omelet 7.961
Patties 7. 962
Pie 7. 962
Powder 7. 962
Puree 7. 962
Sauce 7. 962
Soup 7. 961, 963
Mushrooms 7. 957
au Gratin 7. 960
Baked 7. 958
Boiled 7. 959
Bordelaise, a la 7. 960
Broiled 7. 959
Cases, in 7. 961
Croustades of 7. 959
Devilled 7. 959
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
861
Mushrooms, Dried i. 959
Eggs, with i. 961
en Croustade i. 960
Essence i. 959
Forcemeat i. 959
Fricassee i. 96
Fried i. 960
Fumet i. 960
Imitation i. 960
Pickled i. 963
Potted i. 964
Poulette, a la i. 960
Preserved i. 964
Sautds i. 963
Stewed i. 964
Tinned i. 965
Musk i. 965
Cakes i. 965
Cream, Flavoured i. 965
Drops i. 965
Flavouring for Liqueurs i. 966
Muskellunge i. 966
Musketeer Sauce ii. 392
Soup ii. 488
Musk- Melon Pie i. 930
Salad i. 931
Mussaca i. 569
Mussel Pilau i. 967
Salad i. 967
.. Sauce i. 967
Soup i. 967
Mussels i. 966
Boiled i. 966
Brochette, en i. 966
Coquilles, en i. 966
Fried i. 966
Hustled i. 966
Matelote, a la i. 966
Pickled i. 968
Poulette, a la i. 967
Scalloped i. 968
Stewed i. 968
Yilleroy, a la i. 967
Must i. 968
Mustaccuioli i. 968
Mustard i. 968
Cress, and i. 970
French i. 969
Imperial i. 969
Mixed with Eggs i. 969
Piquant i. 970
Sauce i. 969
Spiced or Aromatic i. 970
Mutton i. 970
Baked i. 97 1
Baked, Cutlets i. 97 1
Baked Saddle i. 97 1
Balls i. 983
Boiled Boned Shoulder i. 971
Boiled Breast i. 97 1
Boiled Leg 7.971
Breast of, Boiled i. 971
Breast of, Boiled Stuffed i. 972
Breast of; Braised i. 973
Breast of, Collared i. 977
Breast of, Fried i. 979
Breast of, Glazed, Boiled i. 980
Breast of, Grilled i. 981
Briskets of, Broiled i. 975
Brochettes, en i. 984
Broth i. 984
Broth, Scotch i. 999
Cakes i. 985
Carbonnadoed i. 976
Casseroles of i. 976
China Chilo i. 977
Chops, a la Main tenon i. 985
Chops, Boiled i. 972
Chops, Braised i. 974
Mutton Chops, Breaded ami Sautiis
i. 985
Chops, Broiled i. 975
Chops, Fried i. 979
Cold, Cutlets i. 977
Collops, Fried i. 979
Collops of Cold i. 978
Comettes i. 978
Coquilles i. 985
Cromeskies i. 985
Croquettes i. 985
Cup Pie i. 986
Curried i. 978
Custard for Invalids i. 986
Cutlets i. 986
Cutlets, Baked i. 97 1
Cutlets, Braised i. 974
Cutlets, Broiled i. 975
Cutlets, Chaudfroid i. 977
Cutlets, Fried i. 979
Devilled i. 978
Doopiaja i. 988
Duck i. 988
Fillets i. 978
Fillets of, Boasted i. 996
Fricasseed i. 978
Fritters i. 988
Ham i. 988
Ham, Boiled i. 972
Haricot i. 981
Hashed i. 981
Haunch of, Braised i. 973
Haunch of, Braised Boned i. 972
Haunch of, Boasted i. 996
Hung i. 982
Kabobs i. 989
Leg of, a la Provenyale i. 982
Leg of, Boiled i. 97 1
Leg of, Braised i. 973
Leg of, Braised Boned i. 972
Leg of, Marinaded i. 982
Leg of, Boasted i. 995, 996
Leg of, Boasted like Game i. 997
Leg of, Boasted with Oysters i. 997
Leg of, Stuffed Braised i. 974
Loin of, en Papiliote i. 982
Loin of, Fried i. 979
Loin of, Boasted Boiled i. 997
Malayan Curried i. 982
Masquerade, en i. 984
Minced i. 983
Minced, Fried i. 979
Mulligatawny i. 989
Neck of f.994
Neck of, Boiled i. 972
Neck of, Broiled i. 976
N eck of, Boasted i. 996
N eck of, Boiled i. 998
Omelet i. 990
Oxford John i. 995
Pie i. 990
Pilau i. 991
Pot-Pourri of i. 995
Potted L 995
Prince of Wales, a la i. 984
Pudding i. 991
Puffs i. 991
Bagout i. 991
BiSchauffe i. 995
Bibs of, Baked i. 97 1
Bissoles i. 992
Boasted i. 995
Boasted, a la Turke i. 997
Bumps of, Braised i. 974
Saddle of i. 998
Saddle of, Baked i. 971
Saddle of, Braised i. 974
Saddle of, Boasted i. 997
Sausage i. 992
Mutton Sautd i. 993
Scalloped i. 993
Scrag of i. 999
Shoulder of, Boiled i. 972
Shoulder of, Boiled Boned i. 971
Shoulder of, Braised Boned i. 973
Shoulder of, Boasted i. 996
Shoulder of, Boiled i. 998
Shoulder of, Spiced i. 999
Shoulder of, with Mushroom Puree
i. 999
Soubise i. 993
Soup i. 993
Steak i. 994
Steak, Broiled i. 976
Steak, Fried i. 980
Stewed i. 1000
Stew, Bed i. 995
Tea i. 994
Timbale of i. 1004
Tinned i. 1004
To Carve i. 3 1 1
Venison to Imitate i. 989
Muzzles, Ox ii. 59
Nantese Salad ii. 358
Naples Biscuits i. 144
Napoleon Cake i. 246
Nasca ii. 1
Nassau Pudding ii. 264.
Nasturtium ii. 1
Buds, pickled ii. 2
Seeds, pickled ii. 2
Navarin ii. 2
Neapolitan Cake i. 246
Ices ii. 2
Pudding ii. 264
Bisot ii. 327
Sauce ii. 392
Soup ii. 488
Neck ii. 2
Nectar ii. 2
Nectarine Compote ii. 3
Fritters ii. 3
Pulp for Ices ii. 3
Nectarines ii. 3
Candied ii. 3
Green, pickled ii. 3
Preserved ii. 3
Negus ii. 4
Barley i. 7 9
Port Wine ii. 225
Wine ii. 789
Nelson Cake i. 246
Puddings ii. 264
Nerve-Food ii. 4
Nesselrode Pudding ii. 4, 264
Nettle Beer ii. 4
Wine ii. 5
Nettles ii. 4
Boiled ii. 4
Stewed ii. 5
Neufchatel Absinthe i. 1
Cheese i. 345
Newark Pudding ii. 265
New-College Puddings ii. 265
New-Jersey Tea ii. 5
Newmarket Pudding ii. 265
New-milk Cheese i. 345
New- Year Cakes i. 246
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
862
Nightcaps 7. 134, ii. 5
Oxford ii. 68
Nitre Lozenges i. 884
Nocken 7. 939, ii. 5
Noggin ii. 6
Noix of Beef with Meat Jelly i. 120
Nonpareil Biscuits i. 144
Bitters i. 150
Pudding ii. 265
Sauce ii. 392
Nonpareils ii. 6
Norfolk Cake i. 246
Puddings ii. 265
Normandy Pippins ii. 6
Sauce ii. 392
Northumberland Puddings ii. 265
North Wilts Cheese i. 345
Norwegian Nest ii. 6
Nottingham Pudding ii. 265
Nougat ii. 6
Apricots i. 44
Apricots, with ii. 7
Baskets ii. 7
Cream ii. 12
Cream-Ice ii. 7
Honey i. "69
Orange ii. 41
Pistachio ii. 201
Nougatinas ii. 7
Nouille a l’ltalienne ii. 8
au Gratin ii. 8
Cake ii. 8
Croquettes ii. 8
Croustades ii. 9
Lemon Cream, with ii. 9
Nouilles, Nudels or ii. 8
Parmesan Cheese, with ii. 9
Pudding ii. 9
Soup ii. 9
Timbales of ii. 9
Turnovers ii. 9
Nourmalial Cake i. 247
Noyau or Noyeau ii. 1 1
Noyau Cream Ice ii. 12
Honey ii. 12
Jelly ii. 12
Jelly, Apricots with i. 42
Raspberry ii. 31 1
Nudels or Nouilles ii. 8
Nun Pudding ii. 265
Nun’s Cake i. 247
Nursery Biscuits i. 144
Nut Cake ii. 12
Candy ii. 13
Comfits ii. 13
Liqueur ii. 13
Pudding ii. 13
Nuts ii. 12
Brazil i. 178
Candied or Crystallised ii. 12
Filberts i. 583
Pea ii. 130
Spice ii. 499
Nut-Crackers ii. 13
Nutmeg Flavouring ii. 14
Lozenges ii. 14
Nutmegs ii. 13
Candied ii. 1 4
Extract of ii. 14
Surprise ii. 14
Nutritive Broth i. 204
o
Oatmeal ii. 14
Biscuits ii. 14
Bread ii. 15
Cakes ii. 15
Cocoa ii. 15
Cream ii. 15
Drink ii. 15
Dumpling ii. 15
Gruel ii. 15
Mush ii. 15
Pie ii. 16
Porridge ii. 16
Pudding ii. 16
Sandwich ii. 16
Soup ii. 16
Wafers ii. 16
Water ii. 17
| Octave ii. 17
i Offal ii. 17
Office Paste ii. 115
Ohm or Alim 7. 59
Oil ii. 17
Almond i. 12
Fusel i. 660
of Cognac i. 177
Olive ii. 20
Palin ii. 85
Salad ii. 360
Okra ii. 17
Boiled ii. 17
Salad ii. 17
Scalloped, with Tomatoes ii. 18
Soup ii. 17
Stewed with Tomatoes ii. 18
Olio ii. 18
Olive Canapes ii. 19
Custard ii. 19
Oil ii. 20
Ragout ii. 19
Sandwich ii. 19
Sauce ii. 1 9
Olives ii. 18
Anchovies and ii. 19
Anchovies with i. 20
Beef i. 101
Chicken i. 613
Cold Meat i. 923
Eggs, and ii. 19
Mock ii. 18
Stuffed ii. 20
Veal ii. 7 17
Olla-Podrida ii. 20
Omeire ii. 20
Omelets ii. 20
Anchovy i. 20
Apricot i. 42
Artichoke i. 49
Asparagus i. 52
Bacon i. 64
Bread i. 1 88
Calf’s Kidney i. 275
Celestine ii. 2 1
Cepes i. 330
Cheese 7. 348
Cod i. 415
Cold Meat i. 923
Crab i. 450
Crayfish i. 459
Devonshire 77.21
Egg and T rutile i. 562
Egg-Plant, Fruit of i. 569
Fine Herbs ii. 22
Fish i. 592
Flavoured with Vanilla ii. 22
Omelets, Foam ii. 21
Fowl’s Livers i. 643
Friar’s ii. 21
German ii. 2 1
Green Peas, of ii. 127
H am i. 740
Haricot Bean i. 92
Jelly i. 785
Kidney 7.797
Kirschenwasser i. 800
Lemon i. 846
Lobster i. 87 4
Macaroni i. 889
Maizena i. 905
Mexican ii. 21
Mushroom 7.961
Mutton 7. 990
Oyster 77. 77
Parmesan Cheese 77. 89
Parsley 77. 9 1
Pickled Pork, of 77. 224
Potato 77. 234
Prawn 77. 246
Red Currant 7. 498
Rum 77. 349
Salmon 77. 369
Sardine 77. 381
Sausage 77. 407
Savoury 77. 22
Shalot 77. 436
Sheep’s Kidney 77. 443
Shrimp 77. 449
Smoked Beef 7. 126
Souffle 77. 22
Spanish 77. 22
Spinach 77. 502
Steamed 77. 22
Sweet 77. 23
Tomato 77. 603
Truffle 77. 629
Tunny 77. 637
Turbot 77. 643
Whitebait, a la Napolitaine 77.
768
with Brussels Sprouts 7. 207
Yam 77.799
Onion Cake 77. 25
Gruel 77. 26
Juice 77.26
Pickle ii. 26
Pie 77. 26
Purde 77. 26
Salad, and Tomato 77. 27
Salad, Jerusalem Artichokes and
7. 50
Sauce 77. 27
Seasoning 77. 27
Soup 77. 27
Stuffing for Fowls 77. 27
Onions 77. 23
Baked 77. 24
Boiled 77. 25
Burnt 77. 25
Fried 77. 25
Glazed 77. 25
Pickled 77. 28
Roasted 77. 28
Spanish 77. 24, 28
Stewed 77. 29
Oopack 77. 30
Opah 77. 30
Orange and Apple Tart 77. 33
Baskets 77. 34
Bavaroise ii. 34
Beignets 77. 34
Biscuits 77. 34
Bitters 77. 34
Brandy it. 34
Butter 77. 35
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
863
Orange Cake ii. 35
Caramel, Quarters ii. 32
Caramels ii. 35
Charlotte ii. 35
Cheese Cakes ii. 33
Chips ii. 36
Cordial ii. 36
Cream ii. 36
Cream Ice ii. 36
Cream Trifle ii. 37
Croquenbouche ii. 37
Cup ii. 37
Custard ii. 37
Drops ii. 38
Extract ii. 38
Flowers ii. 47
Fool ii. 38
Fritters ii. 38
Gin ii. 38
Granite Ice ii. 39
Honey ii. 39
Ice and Burnt Almonds i. 14
Jelly ii. 39
Julep ii. 39
Lemonade ii. 39
Lemon Syrup, and ii. 39
Liqueur ii. 39
Lozenges ii. 39
Mandarin i. 906
Meringue ii. 41
Mould ii. 41
Nougat ii. 41
Paste ii. 41
Pastille Drops ii. 41
Pudding ii. 42
Puff's ii. 43
Ratafia ii. 43
Rice and, Meringue ii. 43
Salad ii. 43
Sherbet ii. 43
Shrub ii. 44
Snow ii. 44
Souffle ii. 44
Sponge ii. 44
Sugar ii. 44
Syrup ii. 44
Tangerine, Biscuits ii. 47
Tangerine Jelly ii. 47
Tart ii. 44
Tartlets ii. 45
Tonic ii. 45
T rifle ii. 45
Water Ice ii. 45
Whey ii. 45
Wine ii. 45
Orangeade ii. 46
Orange-juice, Buttered ii. 32
- Imitation ii. 33
Orange Marmalade ii. 40
Pudding ii. 40
Sauce ii. 41
Souffle ii. 41
Orange-peel, Candied ii. 32
Chips ii. 41
Preserved Green ii. 46
Oranges ii. 30
a la Franrai.se ii. 33
Bananas and, for Dessert ii. 34
Boucliees with i. 170
Cardinal of i. 294
Chartreuse of ii. 32
Compote of ii 33
Conserve of ii. 33
Dessert ii. 37
Frosted and Glace ii. 33
Pickled ii. 46
Preserved i,i. 46
Preserved in Brandy ii. 42
Tincture ii. 47
Ordinary ii. 49
Orgeat ii. 49
Cream Ice ii. 50
Paste ii. 50
Syrup ii. 50
Tablets ii. 50
W ater ii. 50
Orleans Pudding ii. 265
Orlys or Hollies i. 77 1
Anchovies, of i. 21
Ormers ii. 50
Ornamental Butter for Table i. 216
Ornamentations, Croutons of Aspic for
i. 56
Orris or Orrice ii. 50
Ortolans ii. 51
a la Perigordine ii. 51
a la Provenf ale ii. 51
a la Sirene Franeaise ii. 51
a la Toulouse ii. 51
Broiled ii. 51
Cases, in ii. 5 1
Croustades, in a ii. 51
Fried ii. 51
Patties ii. 52
Roasted ii. 52
Stewed ii. 52
Timbale ii. 52
Orvieto ii. 52
Oswego ii. 52
Biscuits ii. 52
Cake ii. 52
Pudding ii. 52
Ounce ii. 52
Ovens ii. 52
American i. 17
Ox ii. 53
Brains ii. 53
Cheek ii. 53
Head ii 53
Heart ii. 55
Kidneys ii. 55
Liver ii. 56
Marrow ii. 56
Muzzles ii. 59
Palates ii. 59
Pith ii. 63
Tails ii. 63
Tongues ii. 64
Oxalic Acid ii. 68
Oxford Bishop ii. 68
Grace Cup ii. 69
John i. 995
Nightcaps ii. 68
Pudding ii. 265
Punch ii. 275
Sausages ii. 405
Oyster Boucliees ii. 74
Cakes ii. 7 4
Canapees ii. 74
Chartreuse ii. 74
Cromeskies ii. 75
Croquettes ii. 75
Fricassee ii. 76
Fritters ii. 7 6
Kabobs ii. 77
Ketchup ii. 77
Loaves ii. 77
Macaroni and, Pudding ii. 77
Omelet ii. 77
Pancakes ii. 77
Patties ii. 77
Pie ii. 79
Powder for Flavouring ii. 79
Ragout ii. 79
Rissolettes ii. 79
Salad ii. 79
Sandwiches ii. 80
Sauce ii. 80
Oyster Sausages ii. 80
Soup ii. 81
Steak and, Radeau ii. 82
Toast ii. 82
Vol au-Vent ii. 82
Oyster Crabs i. 452
Fried i. 452
Stewed, a la Poulette i. 452
Oyster Plant ii. 84
Oysters ii. 69
a la Delmonico ii. 73
a la d’Uxelles ii. 74
a FAmericaine ii. 73
a la Minute ii. 74
a la Poulette ii. 74
a la St. Bernard ii. 74
a l’lndienne ii. 74
Aspic ii. 70
Attelettes ii. 70
an Gratin ii. 74
Baked ii. 7 1
Boiled ii. 7 1
Bombay, or Mock Eggs i. 564
Bonnes Bouches of i. 168
Broiled ii. 71
Cream, with ii. 75
Croustades ii. 71
Curried ii. 72
Darioles ii. 72
en Papillotes ii. 74
Forcemeat ii. 76
Fried ii. 72
Imitation ii. 73
inCases ii. 74
in Caviare Rolls ii. 74
Mock ii. 375
on Ice ii. 76
Parmesan, with ii. 77
Pickled ii. 82
Sautes ii. 80
Scalloped ii. 82
Spiced ii. 83
Steamed ii. 83
Stewed ii. 83
Stewed Beef steak and i. 128
Villeroy Sauce, with ii. 82
P
Pachwai ii. 84
Paddy u. 84
Paela ii. 84
Pails ii. 85
Pain ii. 85
a la Suedoise, or Wood-Hen Cake
ii. 706
Pake ii. 85
1 ’abates, Ox ii. 59
Palestine Sauce ii. 392
Soup ii. 85, 488
Palette knives ii. 85
Palm Oil ii. 85
Tree Pudding ii. 266
Wines ii. 85
Panada ii. 85
Bread i. 188
Breadcrumb i. 190
Broth i. 204
Pancakes ii. 85
Apple i. 31
Buckwheat i. 209
Cream i. 467
864
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pancakes, Ginger 7. 681
Gooseberry 7. 705
Maizena 7. 905
Oyster ii. 77
Rice ii. 333
Samp ii. 376
Pan -Dowdy ii. 88
Pan Kale i. 794
Pantry ii. 88
Pap ii. 88
Paparetta ii. 88
Papaw ii. 88
Papboat ii. 88
Paper ii. 88
Papillote ii. 89
Sauce ii. 392
Paraguay Tea ii. 89
Parboil ii. 89
Paregoric Lozenges 7. 884
Parfait au Cafe i. 425
au Chocolate 7. 380
Parisian Blanc mange i. 157
Cake 7.247
Soup ii. 4S8
Parkin ii. 89
Treacle 77.612
Park-Street Cake 7.247
Parliament Cakes 7.247
Parmesan Cheese 7. 345, ii. 89
Aigrettes 77.89
Nouilles with 77.9
Omelet 77.89
Pyramids ii. 89
Rice and 77.90
Sauce ii. 90
Soup 77.90
Water Pie 77.90
Parr ii. 90
Parsley ii . 90
Butter and, Sauce 77.91
Fagots 7.575
Fried 77.91
Jelly 77.91
Juice for Colouring ii. 91
Lemon Sauce and 77.91
Omelet 77.91
Powder 77.91
Preserved for Winter use ii. 91
Parsnip Balls ii. 92
Fritters 77.92 •
Pudding 77.92
Salad 77. 92
Sautces 77. 92
Soup ii. 93
Wine 77.93
Parsnips ii. 91
Baked 77. 92
Boiled ii. 92
Broiled ii. 92
Fricassee ii. 92
Fried 77. 92
Mashed ii. 92
Scalloped 77. 93
Stewed ii. 93
Parson’s Cake 7. 247
Partridge 77. 93
a la Crapaudine 77. 102
a la Mecklenburg 77. 102
a la Princess Beatrice 77. 102
a la Supreme 77. 103
Boiled 77. 94
Boudins 77. 94
Chartreuse 77. 98
Cheese or Pain 77. 103
Collops 77. 103
Compote 77. 99
Crepinettes of Fillets 77. 99
Cromeskies 77. 103
Croquettes 77. 103
Partridge Croustades 77. 104
Curried 77. 99
Cutlets 77. 104
Escabechar 77. 100
Essence 77. 100
Fillets 77. 100
Forcemeat 77. 104
Fried 77. 101
Minced 77. 102
Patties 77. 104
Pie 77. 105
Potted 77. 107
Pudding 77. 106
Puree 77. 107
Quenelles 77. 106
Rissoles 77. 106
Salad 77. 106
Salmis 77. 109
Sautds 77. 107
Souffle 77. 110
Soup 77. 107
Terrine 77. Ill
Partridges, Aspic of 77. 93
Ballotines 77. 94
Braised 77. 95
Broiled 77. 97
Celestines 77. 97
Chaudfroid 77. 98
Epigramme 77. 99
Galantine 77. 101
Roasted 77. 108
Stewed 77. 110
Pascaline Sauce 77. 392
Pasha Soup 77. 488
Passa Soup 77. 489
Passover Cakes 7. 247, 77. Ill
Pastafrolle 77. 1 1 1
Paste, Almond 7. 12
Anchovy 7. 20
Apple 7.31
Apricot 7.42
Bloater 7. 157
Borders, for 77. 116
Cases 77. 121
Cheese Cakes, for 77. 1 16
Chopped 77.115
Crisp 77. 115
Croquante 77. 115
Crowns 77. 121
Custards or Preserved Fruits, for
77. 116
Cutters 7. 139
Dried Yeast, with Alum 77. 802
Geneva 77. 115
Genoa 77. 1 15
German 77. 115
German, Croquettes 77. 121
Italian 77. 115
Kippered -Salmon 77. 371
Lemon 7. 847
Liquorice 7. 863
Macaroni 77. 115
made with Cream 77. 116
made with Dripping 77. 116
made with Suet 77. 1 17
Meat and Game Pies, for 77. 116
Office 77. 115
Orange 77. 41
Ornamenting Tartlets, for 77. 116
Pastry and 77. Ill
Patten or Paten 77. 122
Patties, for 77. 1 16
Pies, for 77.116
Plaits 77. 121
Puff 77. 112
Rice 77. 333
Short 77. 114
Tomato 77. 603
Transparent, for Tartlets 77. 117
Pastille Drops, Apricot 7. 42
Drops, Orange 77. 41
Pastilles 77. 122
Lemon 7. 847
Pastry 77. 117
Almond Genoese 7. 12
Cream 7. 473
Creams 77. 122
French 77. 120
Genevese 77. 120
Genoese 7. 120
Lard 7. 828
Neapolitan 77. 121
Royal 77. 122
Turkish 77. 122
Pasty 77. 122
Pate de Fois Gras 7. 700
Imitation 7. 700
Patience Biscuits 7. 144
Patten or Paten Paste 77. 122
Patties 77. 122
a la Dauphine 77. 123
a la'Financiere 77. 123
a la Toulouse 77. 123
a la Vol-au-Vent 77. 123
Beef 7. 102
Bread 7. 189
Cornish 77. 122
Dresden 77. 123
Eel 7. 543
Egg 7. 559
Fontange 77. 123
Fried 77. 123
Lemon 7. 847
Lent 77. 123
Periwinkle 77. 151
Russian 77. 123
Salmon 77. 369
Scrambled Brains in 7. 174
Swiss 77. 124
Paupiettes 77. 124
Beef Rolls or 7. 103
Paysanne, a la 77. 124
Peach Bavaroise 77. 132
Brandy 77. 133
Butter 77. 133
Charlotte 77. 133
Cheese 77. 133
Cheese Cakes 77. 133
Cobbler 77. 134
Conserves 77. 134
Cordial 77. 134
Cream 77. 134
Cream Ice 77. 134
Custard 77. 134
Dumplings 77. 131
Flawn 77. 134
Fritters 77. 135
Fritters, Apricot and 77. B
Ice 77. 135
Jam 77. 135
Jelly 77. 135
Leather ii. 136
Leaves flavouring 77. 136
Leche Crema 77. 136
Marmalade 77. 136
Meringue 77. 136
Miroton 77. 136
Paste 77. 136
Pickle 77. 136
Pie 77. 137
Pudding 77. 137
Sago and, Pudding 77. 137
Sponge 77. 138
Spongeade 77. 138
Sweetmeats 77. 138
Syrup 77. 138
Tart ii. 138
Tartlets 77. 138
Gateau of Havre.
>
w
C/5
o
35 O K
» » ft-
O <X>
sc sc
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
8G5
Peach Trifle 77. 139
Peaches 77. 131
and Rice Meringue ii. 137
au Gratin ii. 132
Bouchdes with i. 170
Compote ii. 131
Croft tons, on ii. 134
Dessert ii. 134
Dried ii. 132
Fried ii. 132
Frosted ii. 132
Frozen it 132
Jelly, in ii. 136
Macedoine ii. 132
Pickled ii. 139
Preserved ii. 140
Stewed ii. 140
Peacock, Braised ii. 130
Dressed i. 384
Peafowl ii. 130
Peahen, Roasted ii. 130
Peanuts ii. 130
Candy ii. 131
Salted ii. 131
Sauce ii. 131
Pear, Anchovy 7. 21
Avocado i. 00
Cream Ice ii. 142
Drops ii. 143
Dumplings ii. 143
Flavour with Cream ii. 143
Flawn ii. 143
Fritters ii. 143
Jam ii. 143
Jelly ii. 143
Marmalade ii. 143
Marmalade, and Quince ii. 144
Paste, Candied Knots of ii. 141
Paste Drops ii. 144
Pie ii. 144
Preserve with Cream ii. 144
Putt's ii. 144
Pulp for Ices ii. 144
Quenelles ii. 144
Salad ii. 144
Soup ii. 144
Stuffed ii. 146
Tart ii. 144
Tartlets ii. 145
Timbale ii. 145
Vinegar ii. 145
Water Ice ii. 145
Pearl Barley i. 78
French 7.78
Pears ii. 140
Alligator i. 8
Anisette Jelly with i. 23
Baked ii. 141
Bavaroise ii. 141
Candied ii. 142
Charlotte ii. 142
Compote ii. 142
Crisped ii. 142
Jelly Border, in a ii. 143
Pickled ii. 145
Preserved ii. 145
Prickly ii. 247
Stewed ii. 146
Peas ii. 124
Asparagus i. 52
Bross i. 203
Dried Green ii. 129
Fresh Green ii. 125
Pigeon ii. 185
Pudding ii. 129
Rice and ii. 334
Soup ii. 130
Split ii. 129
Sugar ii. 128
VOL. II.
Peas, Tinned, Green ii. 129
Pea shell Browning for Soups i. 206
Pectoral Broth i. 204
Peeling ii. 146
Pegee ii. 147
Pembroke pudding ii. 266
Pemmican ii. 147
Penelope Biscuits i. 145
Pudding ii. 266
Soup ii. 489
Pepper ii. 147
Cayenne i. 288
Confection i. 429
Pepper-box ii. 147
Pepper-pot ii. 148
Peppermint ii. 147
Peppers, Stuffed and Baked Green i. 288
Perch ii. 149
a l’Allemande ii. 150
a la Normande ii. 150
a la Silesienne ii. 150
Boiled ii. 149
Broiled ii. 149
Fried ii. 150
Mayonnaise ii. 150
Sauce for ii. 396
Scalloped ii. 151
Soup ii. 150
Stewed in Wine ii. 150
Watersouchet ii. 151
Percoell ii. 151
Perigord Pie ii. 151
Perigueux Sauce ii. 392
Peripatetic Pudding ii. 266
Periwinkles ii. 151
Perry i. 133, ii. 151
Jelly ii. 151
Persian Beverage i. 134
Sausages ii. 406
Persillade ii. 152
Persimmons ii. 152
Peruvian Biscuits i. 145
Bitters i. 150
Pestle and Mortar ii. 152
Petites Bouchdes i. 170
Petits Biscuits, Ambrosiens i. 145
Pheasant a la Diplomate ii. 155
a la Minute ii. 156
a la Perigueux ii. 156
a la Soubise ii. 156
it l’Etouffade ii. 156
Boudin ii. 152
Braised ii. 153
Consomme ii. 154
Croquettes ii. 156
Curried ii. 154
Essence ii. 154
Forcemeat ii. 156
Galantine ii. 155
Hashed ii. 155
Minced ii. 155
Paste, in ii. 157
Pie ii. 157
Potted ii. 158
Pulled ii. 158
Puree ii. 158
Quenelles with Truffles ii. 157
Rissoles ii. 157
Roasted ii. 158
Salmis ii. 160
Saute ii. 157
Souffle 77.160
Soup 77. 158
Pheasants 77. 152
a la Boliemienne 77. 155
a l'Extravagante 77. 156
Boiled 77. 152
Broiled 77. 153
Chaudfroid 77. 153
Pheasants, Collops of, in Cases 77. 153
Devilled Legs 77. 154
Fillets 77. 154
Fried 77. 154
Stewed 77. 160
Piccalilli ii. 164
Tomato 77. 004
Pickerel, Baked 77. 185
Pickle 77. 162
A pple 7. 3 1
Bamboo 7. 7 0
Green Tomato 77. 595
Mango 7. 907
Peacli 77. 136
Piccalilli 77. 164
Sandwiches 77. 37 8
Tomato 77. 604
Walnut 77.757
Pickled Barberries 7. 77
Beetroots 7. 132
Blackberries 7. 153
Bloaters 7. 158
Brisket of Beef 7. 121
French Beans 7. 91
Lemons 7. 855
Onions 77. 28
Pork 77. 223
Salmon 77. 365
Pickles 77. 162
American Mixed 77.163
French ii. 103
German 77. 163
Green 77. 163
Honolulu 77. 164
Indian 77. 164
Mixed 77. 164
Mustard 77. 104
Spanish 77. 164
Picnics 77. 165
Pie it la Financiere 77. 107
Apple Custard 7. 28
Apricot 7.42
Baltimore Butter 7.70
Banana 7. 7 1
Banana Cream 7. 7 1
Beef 7. 102
Beef steak 7. 104
Beef steak, with Oysters 7. 104
Bengal Shikaree 77,166
Bilberry 7. 135
Blackberry 7. 152
Blackbird 7. 153
Brazilian 77. 166
Breadcrumb 7. 190
Bullace 7. 209
Camp 77.166
Capon 7. 286
Cold Meat 7. 923
Eccks 77. 166
Game 7. 064
Giblet 7.674
Goblet 77.166
Godiveau 7. 692
Goose 7. 693
Gooseberry 7.705
Goose Giblet 7.696
Grouse 7.723
Ham 7.740
Ham and Chicken 7. 739
H are 7. 7 47
Herb 7.760
Italian 77. 166
Leicestei shire Medley 77. 107
Lemon 7. 847
Lent 77. 167
Meat 7.921
Melton Mowbray 77. 218
Pork 77. 220
Roman 77. 167
3 K
866
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Pie, Sago and Vegetable ii. 355
Salmon ii. 369
Savoury ii. 167
Sea ii. 167
Shepherd’s ii. 167
Shropshire ii. 167
Squab ii. 167
Swiss ii. 168
Tartar’s ii. 168
Thatched ii. 168
Turkish Girdle ii. 168
■ Washington ii. 168
Piedmont Soup ii. 489
Pies ii. 165
Apple i. 32
Lemon Cream i. 842
Pig, Sucking ii. 17 5
Pigeon and Beefsteak Pie ii. 180
Cutlets ii. 181
Dumplings ii. 181
Pie ii. 181
Peas ii. 185
Pudding ii. 182
Salad ii. 182
Soup ii. 183
Pigeons ii. 177
a la Bourgeoise ii. 179
a la Duchesse ii. 179
a la Financiere ii. 180
a la Julienne ii. 180
a l’lmperiale ii. 180
Aspic Jelly, in ii. 180
au Soleil ii. 182
Ballotines ii. 177
Boiled ii. 177
Braised ii. 177
Broiled ii. 177
Case, in a ii. 181
Chartreuse ii. 178
Chaudfroid ii. 178
Compote ii. 178
Curried ii. 178
Epigramme ii. 178
Fillets ii. 179
Fricandeau ii. 179
Fricasseed ii. 179
Fried ii. 179
Jugged ii. 179
Potted ii. 183
Rice and Parmesan Cheese with
ii. 182
Roasted ii. 183
Salmis ii. 184
Stewed ii. 184
Stuffed ii. 184
Timbale ii. 185
Pignolo ii. 185
Pigs ii. 168
Cheek, Jowl or Face ii. 168
Ears ii. 169
Feet ii. 170
Fry ii. 172
Head ii. 172
Kidneys ii. 174
Liver ii. 174
Tails ii. 175
Tongues ii. 175
Pike ii. 185
a la Cliambord ii. 188
a la Clemont ii. 188
a la Financiere ii. 188
a la Genevaise ii. 188
a la Genoise ii. 188
Aspic Jelly, with ii. 188
Baked ii. 186
Boiled ii. 186
Broiled ii. 187
Boudins ii. 187
Carbonade ii. 187
Pike, Cheese ii. 188
Cutlets with Tomato Sau;e ii. 189
Fillets ii. 187
Forcemeat ii. 189
Fricasseed i. 187
Fried ii. 187
Pickled ii. 188
Potted ii. 189
Quenelles of, and Mushrooms ii.
189
Rissoles ii. 189
Roasted ii. 189
Sauce for ii. 396
Soup ii. 189
Soused ii. 190
Stewed ii. 190
Pikelets ii. 190
Pilau ii. 190
Beef i. 102
Beef, as Prepared in Spain i. 121
English ii. 191
Indian ii. 191
Persian ii. 1 9 1
Turkish ii. 191
Pilchards ii. 191
Pinaree, Indian i. 134
Pineapple ii. 191
Bavaroise ii. 192
Brandy ii. 192
Cake ii. 192
Candied Knots ii. 192
Cardinal i. 294
Charlotte ii. 193
Cheese ii. 193
Cider ii. 193
Compote ii. 192
Confection ii. 193
Cream ii. 193
Cream Ice ii. 193
Crusts ii. 193
Dessert, for ii. 194
Dried ii. 192
Drink ii. 194
Drops ii. 194
Frankfort style ii. 194
F litters ii. 1 94
Glaci ii. 194
Jam ii. 194
Jelly ii. 194
Julep ii. 195
Marmalade ii. 195
Meringue ii. 195
Preserved ii. 197
Punch ii. 195
Rice, with ii. 196
Rum ii. 196
Salad ii. 196
Sherbet ii. 196
Shrub ii. 196
Snow ii. 196
Sorbet ii. 196
Sponge ii. 196
Sugared ii. 197
Syrup ii. 196
Tarts ii. 197
Tinned ii. 197
Toddy ii. 197
Water Ice ii. 197
Pinions ii. 199
Pink Sauce ii. 402
Pint ii. 199
Pintails ii. 1 99
Pipe, Bath i. 85
Pipers ii. 199
Pippins, Normandy ii. 6
Preserved i. 39
Piquant ii. 199
Sauce ii. 393
Sauce, Red ii. 394
Piquctte ii. 199
Pishpash ii. 199
Pistachio ii. 199
Bavaroise ii. 200
Biscuits ii. 200
Cake ii. 200
Candied, Paste ii. 200
Comfits ii. 200
Cracklings ii. 200
Cream ii. 200
Cream Ice ii. 201
Croquettes ii. 201
Drink ii. 201
Glazed, Cream ii. 200
Ice, Apricot and i. 43
Marzipan Lozenges ii. 201
Nougat ii. 201
Paste ii. 201
Rock Sugar ii. 201
Souffles ii. 201
Tablets ii. 202
Toroni ii. 202
Water Ice ii. 202
Zephyrs ii. 202
Pith, Ox ii. 63
Pithiviers Almond Cake i. 14
Pizza ii. 202
Plaice ii. 202
au Gratin ii. 203
Baked ii. 202
Boiled ii. 202
Broiled ii. 202
Fillets ii. 202
Fried ii. 203
Salad ii. 203
Stewed, Stuffed ii. 203
Plain Biscuits i. 145
Cake i. 247
Salad ii. 358
Soup ii. 489
Plantain ii. 203
F lied ii. 203
Fritters ii. 203
Plate ii. 204
Plates ii. 204
Plovers ii. 204
au Gratin ii. 205
Baked ii. 204
Braised ii. 204
Broiled ii. 204
Capilotade ii. 204
Chaudfroid ii. 204
Eggs, Boiled ii. 204
F’illets ii. 205
F ried ii. 205
Galantines ii. 205
Pie ii. 205
Roasted ii. 205
Salmis ii. 206
Stewed ii. 206
Pluck ii. 206
Sheep’s ii. 444
Plum Brandy ii. 207
Buns i.211
Cake ii. 207, 210
Candied ii. 206
Candy ii. 208
Cream Ice ii. 208
Damson and, Jam ii. 208
F ool ii. 208
Jam ii. 208
Jelly ii. 208
Marmalade ii. 208
Paste ii. 209
Pear and, Jam ii. 209
Pulp for Ices ii. 209
Soup ii. 209
Tart ii. 209
Tartlets ii. 209
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
867
Plum Vinegar and Claret ii. 209
Pudding ii. 211
Cold, Warmed up ii. 211
Iced ii. 211
Imitation ii. 211
Indian ii. 2 1 1
Sauce for ii. 400
Scotch ii. 212
without Suet ii. 212
Plums ii. 206
Bottled ii. 206
Brandy, in ii. 207
Compote ii. 206
Crystallised ii. 207
Pickled ii. 207
Preserved ii. 209
Stewed ii. 210
Plum -shaped Biscuits i. 145
Poached Eggs i. 564
Imitation i. 564
Minced Beef with i. 120
Poaching ii. 212
Poele ii. 213
Points, Lemon i. 847
Poivrade Sauce ii. 393
Pokeberries ii. 213
Polenta ii. 2 1 3
a l’ltalienne ii. 213
Cheese and if. 213
Cold Meat with i. 923
Savoury ii. 213
Timbale a la Milanaise ii. 213
Polish Biscottini i. 136
Cakes i. 247
Julienne Soup ii. 489
Salad ii. 358
Sauce ii. 393
Soup ii. 489
Sweet Sauce ii. 400
Polka Cakes i. 247
Pudding ii. 266
Pollock or Pollack ii. 214
Polonies, Ham and Chicken i. 740
Pomegranate Comfits ii. 214
Jelly ii. 214
Syrup ii. 214
Water ii. 214
Water Ice ii. 214
Pomegranates ii. 214
Compote ii. 214
Stewed ii. 214
Pomeranian Soup ii. 489
Pompadour Sauce ii. 393
Pompadour’s Punch ii. 275
Pompano ii. 214
Pontarlier Absinthe i. 2
Pontgibaud Cheese i. 345
Pont-l’Eveque Cheese i. 345
Poor Man’s Pudding ii. 266
Sauce ii. 393
Soup ii. 489
Pop-Corn Balls i. 778
Candy i. 778
Pop-Overs ii. 215
Poppies ii. 215
Porcupine Apple i. 32
Gobi Meat i. 923
Meat i. 921
Pudding ii. 266
Pork ii. 215
Apple and, Pie ii. 219
Baked ii. 216
Boiled ii. 216
Braised ii. 216
Broiled ii. 216
Cheese ii. 218
Cheshire, Pie ii. 217
Chops Sautes ii. 219
Cold ii. 217
Pork, Collared ii. 217
Collops ii. 219
Croquettes ii. 219
Curried ii. 217
Cutlets with Anchovy Sauce ii. 219
Fillets ii. 218
Forcemeat with Bacon ii. 219
F lied ii. 218
Fritters ii. 219
Hashed ii. 218
Kidney and, Pudding ii. 220
Minced ii. 218
Neck ii. 218
Patties ii. 220
Pie ii. 220
Pickled ii. 223
Potted ii. 221
Pudding ii. 220
Roasted ii. 221
Rolled ii. 223
Sausages ii. 221
Soup ii. 22 1
Souse ii. 22 1
Steaks in Rolls ii. 221
Stewed ii. 223
To Carve i. 312
Porridge ii. 225
Cracked Wheat ii. 764
Florador, with Milk i. 598
Haricot Bean i. 92
Milk i. 940
Oatmeal ii. 16
Peas ii. 129
Rice ii. 334
Turnips ii. 662
Portable Soup ii. 489
Port du Salut ( 'heese f. 345
Porter ii. 225
Cup ii. 225
Jelly ii. 225
Porterhouse Steak ii. 226
Broiled i. 112
Broiled Double i. Ill
Portland Pudding ii. 206
Portugaise, A pples a la i. 32
Portugal Pudding ii. 266
Portuguese Cake i. 247
Sauce
ii. 394
Soup
ii. 490
Port Wine
ii. 225
1 mitation ii. 225
Jelly
ii. 225
Negus
ii. 225
Sauce
ii. 225
Posset Ale
i. 7
Lemon
i. 847
Treacle ii. 612
Wine
ii. 789
Possets ii.
226
Potash ii.
226
Potato Balls ii. 230
Beer ii. 230
Biscuit
s ii. 230
Borders
i ii. 231
Bread
i. 183
Cake
ii. 231
Cases, in ii. 231
Cassolettes ii. 231
Cheese Cakes ii. 231
Chips ii. 228
Chops ii. 232
Colcannon ii. 232
Cones ii. 232
Cream ii. 232
Cream Soup ii. 232
Croquettes ii. 232
Croustades ii. 232
Crulles ii. 232
Cucumber and ii. 233
Potato Custard ii 233
Cutlets with Tomatoes ii. 233
Eggs ii. 233
Entries, for ii. 233
Flour, ii. 233
Fritters ii. 233
Ivlosse ii. 234
Loaf or Pain ii. 234
Masher i. 915
Nests ii. 234
Nudels ii. 234
Omelet ii. 234
Paste Sausage Rolls ii. 235
Patties ii. 235
Pie ii. 235
Pone ii. 236
Pudding ii. 236
Puffs ii. 236
Puree ii. 237
Quenelles ii. 237
Ragout ii. 237
Rechauffe ii. 237
Rissoles ii. 237
Rolls i. 185, ii. 237
Salad ii. 237
Salad, Onion and ii. 234
Sandwiches ii. 238
Sauce for Salads ii. 238
Saute, Onion and ii. 235
Sautes ii. 238
Scones ii. 238
Snow ii. 239
Souffle ii. 239
Soup ii. 239
Soup, Chervil and ii. 232
Sour Cream, with ii. 240
Steak ii. 240
Straws ii. 240
Stuffing ii. 240
Tarts ii. 240
Tea-Cakes ii. 240
Timbale ii. 240
Turnovers with Herrings ii. 240
Waffles ii. 241
Yeast ii. 241
Potatoes ii. 226
a la Barigoulc ii. 229
a la Duchesse ii. 229
a la Gastronome ii. 229
a la Genevoise ii. 229
a la Julienne ii. 230
a la Lyonnaise ii. 230
a la Mai ti e d’Hotel ii. 230
a l’ltalienne ii. 230
an Gratin ii. 229
Bacon with ii. 230
Baked ii. 228
Boiled ii. 228
Boiled New ii. 228
Broiled ii. 228
Browned ii. 228
Casserole ii. 228
Creamed ii. 228
Curried ii. 228
Fried ii. 229
Glazed ii. 229
Herrings with ii. 234
Imitation ii. 537
Imitation New ii. 229
Kidney Shaped ii. 227
Mashed ii. 229.
Parsley, in ii. 235
Piquante Sauce with ii. 236
Rolled, with Sweet Sauce ii. 241
Round ii. 227
Sardines with ii. 238
Scalloped ii. 241
Stuffed ii. 242
Stuffed with Cheese ii. 240
3 K 2
868
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Potatoes, Surprise it. 242
Pot-au-Feu it. 226
Beef i. 1 02
French ii. 226
Soup ii. 226
Pot Beef steak i. 105
Cheese i. 345
Poteen ii. 242
Pot-herbs i. 759, ii. 242
Fagot of i. 575
Pot Pie Beef i. 102
Pot-Pourri ii. 243
Pot Roasted Beef i. 126
Pots and Pans ii. 243
Pot-Still Punch ii. 275
Potted Anchovy i. 21
Beef i. 121
Beef with Venison Flavour
i. 121
Haricot Beans i. 93
Liver i. 865
Shrimps ii. 448
Veal ii. 700
Potting ii. 243
Pottle ii. 243
Poulardes ii. 243
Poulette ii. 243
Sauce ii. 394
Poultry ii. 243
Boning i. 167
Game and, to Carve i. 312
Pound ii. 243
Cakes i. 247
Powder, Anchovy i. 20
Biscuit i. 141
Parsley ii. 91
Prairie Chicken, Fricassee of ii. 244 '
Pie ii. 244
Roasted ii. 244
Stewed ii. 244
Prairie Hen, Baked ii. 243
Broiled ii. 243
Chartreuse of ii. 243
Chicken or ii. 243
Croquettes ii. 244
Saute ii. 244
Pralines ii. 245
Almond i. 11
Lemon 7 848
Spanish Nuts ii. 497
Prawn Cromeskies ii. 246 »
Cutlet ii. 246
Omelet ii. 246
Pilau ii. 246
Powder ii. 246
Salad ii. 246
Soup ii. 246
Prawns ii. 245
Aspic, in ii. 246
Bisk of i. 149
Boiled ii. 245
Buttered ii. 245
Curried ii. 245
Dried ii. 246
Potted ii. 246
Salpiyon of ii. 247
Scalloped ii. 247
Stewed ii. 247
Tinned, Sautes ii. 247
Premier Sauce ii. 402
Preparing Beetroots for the Table
i. 131
f reservation of Apples i. 38
resekve, Lemon i. 848
Mango i. 907
Preserved Angelica with Jellies i. 22
A pplfes i.lp
Apricots i. 45
Artichokes i. 50
Preserved Asparagus i. 54
Barberries i. 77
Barberry Pulp i. 77
Butter i. 217
Ginger i. 684
Green Angelica i. 22
Haricot Beans i. 93
Pippins i. 39
Preserving Food i. 604
Pressed Beef i. 121
Prickly Pears ii. 247
Primrose Pudding ii. 247
Salad ii. 247
Vinegar ii. 247
Wine ii. 247
Primroses ii. 247
Prince Alfred’s Sauce ii. 402
Prince’s Sauce Salad ii. 394
Soup ii. 490
Princess Louise Cake i. 248
Biscuits i. 145
of Wales, Apples a la i. 32 , ’ \
Pudding ii. 266
Sauce ii. 394
Soup ii. 490
Profiterolles ii. 248
Chocolate with ii. 248
Pudding ii. 248
Soup, for ii. 248
Prosanico ii. 248
Provencal ii. 248
Sauce ii. 394
Prune Cake ii. 249
Drink ii. 249
Jelly ii. 249
Loaf ii. 250
Pudding ii. 250
Sauce ii. 250
Prunelet ii. 250
Prunes ii. 248
a la Russe ii. 249
Brandy, in ii. 249
Compote ii. 249
Gateau ii. 249
Preserved ii. 249
Stewed ii. 250
Prussian Breakfast Cakes i. 248
Sauce ii. 394
Ptarmigan ii. 250
Broiled ii. 250
Roasted ii. 250
Salmis of, ii la Chasseur ii. 251
Puchero ii. 251
Soup ii. 490
Puddings ii. 25 1
Acid i. 2, ii. 251
Adam-and-Eve ii. 251
Adelaide i. 3, ii. 251
Agnew i. 4, ii. 251
a la Cleveland ii. 266
ii la Liscard Hall ii. 267
a la Theodore ii. 267
Albemarle i. 6, ii. 251
Albert i. 6, ii. 251
Alderman’s ii. 252
Alexandra Iced ii. 252
All- Threes ii. 252
Alma ii. 252
Almond i. 12, 13
Almond-and-Rice 7. 13
Almond Kosher i. 12
Almond Savarin i. 13
Amber ii. 252
American Black ii. 252
Amhurst ii. 252
Angel ii. 253
Apple i. 33
Apple and Almond i. 26
Apple- and Cornflour i. 28
Puddings, Apple-and-Crumb i. 28
Apple-and-Rice ii. 328
Apple-and-Tapioca i. 35
Apple Custard i. 28
Apple, with Rice i. 33
Apricot i. 43
Arrowroot i. 47
Asparagus i. 53
Aunt Louisa’s ii. 253
Baby’s ii. 253
Baden-Baden ii. 253
Baden-Baden Bread i. 186
Baked Barley i. 78
Baked Batter i. 86
Baked Bread i. 189
Baked Bread and Butter i. 187
Baked Californian ii. 253
Baked Cheese i. 347
Baked Sago ii. 354
Bakewell i. 66
Balloon ii. 253
, Bank-Holiday ii. 253
Barford ii. 253
Bdftli ii. 253
Batter i. 87
Beaufort ii. 253
Beaulieu ii. 253
Beef i. 102
Beefsteak-and Kidney i. 104
Beefsteak, with Oysters i. 105
Belgian i. 207
Bird’s-Nest ii. 253
Biscuit 7. 141
Bishop’s ii. 254
Black i. 154
Blackberry or American Down-East
i. 151
Blackcap ii. 254
Boiled Batter i. 86, 87
Boiled Bilberry i. 135
Boiled Bread i. 189
Boiled Sago ii. 354
Bombay ii. 254
Boston ii. 254
Bowdoin and Pumpkin Pie ii. 254
Brandy, with Brandy Sauce ii. 254
Bread-and-Marrow i. 188
Broken-Bread i. 191
Brown or Black-Bread i. 191
Bull' ii. 254
Bun 1.210
Butter-milk i. 218
Calf’s Feet i. 269
Calf’s Liver 7.276
Californian, Boiled ii. 254
Cambridge ii. 255
Candied Peel i. 280
Caramel i. 290
Carrot i. 305
Carrot Plum i. 305
Castle ii. 255
Cheese i. 349
Cheese-cake i. 354
Cherry i. 36 1
Cherry Bread i. 356
Cherry Souffle i. 361
Chestnut i. 367
Children’s ii. 255
Chocolate 7.378
Chocolate Roll 7. 379
Christmas 7. 385
Circassian 77. 255
Citron 7. 394
Clarence 77. 255
Clarges-Street 77. 255
Clifton 77. 256
Coburg 77. 256
Cocoa 7. 407
Cocoa-nut 7.410
THE ENC 7CL0PJEDTA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
869
Puddings, Cocoa-nut Sponge 7. 411
Coffee 7. 425
Cold, a la Diaz 77. 256
Cold Meat 7. 924
Cold-Meat-and-Macaroni 7. 923
College 77. 256
Conservative ii. 256
Constance ii. 256
Cornflour i. 442
Cornflour Hasty i. 442
Cornflour, Spiced i. 444
Cornwall ii. 256
Cottage ii. 256
Cowslip i. 448
Cracker i. 453
Crayfish i. 459
Cream i. 468
Crystal Palace ii. 257
Cumberland ii. 257
Cup ii. 257
Curate’s ii. 257
Curd i. 494
Custard i. 509
Custard and Jam 7.508
Custard Cup i. 508
Daisy’s ii. 257
Damkorf ii. 257
Damson Jam i. 514
Danish ii. 257
Date 7.517
Delaware 77. 257
Delhi ii. 257
Derry 77. 258
Devonshire 77. 258
Dingy 77. 258
Diplomatic ii. 258
Down-East 77. 258
Duke’s 77. 258
Dutch 77. 258
Dutch Wafer ii. 258
Editor’s 77. 258
Egg 7. 559
Egg-and-Flour Batter 7.557
Egg-Plant Fruit, of 7. 569
Essex 77. 259
Excellent 77. 259
Fig 7. 582
Fish 7. 593
Flame 77. 259
Fortunatus ii. 259
Fowl 7. 623
Frankfort 77. 259
French and-Italian 77. 259
French Roll i. 191
Frozen 77. 259
Fruit 7.656
Fruit-and Batter 7. 653
Fun 77. 259
Gelatine 7. 673
German 77. 259
Gertrude’s 77. 260
Ginger 7.681
Ginger Cup 7. 680
Gloucester 77. 260
Golden 77. 260
Golden-Ball 77. 260
Goose 7. 707
Gooseberry 7. 705
Gotham 77. 260
Grape 7. 7 10
Green Corn 7. 777
Groat 7.721
Ground-Rice -and-Cocoanut 77. 325
Ground-Rice-and-Honey 77. 326
Ground -Rice Hasty 77. 325
Haddock 7. 733
Hampshire 77. 260
Hanover 77. 260
Harem 77. 260
Puddings, Hasty 7. 7 56, 77. 260
Helena 77. 260
Helen’s 77. 260
Herb 7.760
Herefords 77. 261
Homely 77.260
Hominy 7.768
Hunter’s 77. 261
Hunting 77.261
Ice 77. 26 1
Iced 77. 261
Iced Cabinet 77. 261
Iced Rice 77. 326
Iced Swiss 77. 261
Imperial 77. 261
Indian 77.261
Italian 77.261
Italian Rice 77. 327
Jam 7.781
Jam Roly-Poly 7. 782
Jenny Lind 77.261
Juke’s 77.261
Junior United 77.261
Kendal 77.261
Kentucky Green Corn 7.778
Kidney 7. 797
Kidney-and-Oyster 7. 799
Lady Wrottesley’s 77. 262
Lancer 77. 262
Lark 7. 832
Leamington 77. 262
Leicester 77. 262
Lemon 7. 848
Lemonade 7. 855
Lemon, A pple, or Pear 7. 837
Lemon Souffle 7. 852
Lentil 7. 857
Light, with Sabayon Sauce 77. 262
Little Constance’s 77. 262
Liver 7. S64
Lobster 7. 87 5
Louis Philippe 77. 262
Macaroni 7. 889
Macaroni -and-Almond 7. 886
Macaroon 7. 896
Madeira 77. 262
Madonna 77. 262
Maids-of -Honour 77. 262
Maizena 7. 905
Maizena Jam 7. 905
Malaga 77. 262
Malvern 77.263
Manchester 77. 263
Maraschino 7.910
Marlborough 77. 263
Marmalade 7. 9 1 2, 77. 263
Marque 77. 263
Marquise 77. 263
Maud’s 77. 263
Meat and Bread -and Butter 7. 920
Meringue 7. 934
Michael 77. 263
Milk 7. 940
Milton 77. 263
Mincemeat 7. 944
Minute 77. 263
Mocha 77. 264
Molasses 7. 947
Molasses Sauce, with 77. 267
Monmouth 77. 264
Montreal 77. 264
Mousseline 77. 264
Mutton 7. 991
Nassau 77. 264
Neapolitan 77. 264
Nelson 77. 264
Nesselrode 77. 4, 264
Newark 77. 265
New Bedford Corn 7. 778
Puddings, New College 77. 265
Newmarket 77. 265
Nonpareil 77. 265
Norfolk 77. 265
Northumberland 77. 265
Nottingham 77. 265
Nouille 77. 9
Nudel 77. 10
Nun 77.265
Nut 77.13
Oatmeal 77. 16
Orange 77. 42
Orange-Marmalade 77. 40
Orleans 77. 265
Oswego 77. 52
Oxford 77. 265
Oyster and -Macaroni 77. 77
Palm-tree 77.266
Pancake 77. 87
Parsnips 77. 92
Partridge 77. 106
Peach 77. 137
Peach and -Sago 77. 137
Peas 77. 129
Pembroke 77. 266
Penelope 77. 266
Peripatetic 77. 266
Pigeon 77. 182
Pig’s Head 77. 173
Plum 77.211
Polka 77. 266
Poor Man’s 77. 266
Porcupine 77. 266
Pork 77. 220
Pork-and-Kidney 77. 220
Portland 77. 266
Portugal 77. 266
Potato 77. 236
Primrose 77. 247
Princess 77. 266
Profiterolle 77. 248
Prune 77. 250
Pumpkin 77. 272
Quaking 77. 267
Queen 77. 267
Queen Mab’s 77. 267
Quince 77. 284
Quince Iced 77. 283
Rabbit 77. 295
Raglan 77. 267
Raisin 77. 303
Raspberry 77.311
Raspberry -ami -Currant 77. 308
Raspberry Jam 77.310
Ratafia 77.314
Red-Currant 7. 499
Red Currant -anti Raspberry 7. 499
Revere 77. 267
Rhubarb 77. 320
Rice 77. 334
Rice-ami Fruit 77.331
Rice-and Macaroon 77. 332
Rice-and Oatmeal 77. 333
Rice-and Raisin 77. 336
Rice-and Tapioca 77. 337
Rice Blackcap 77. 328
Rich 77. 267
Rum 77. 349
Rusk 77. 35 1
Sago-and -Apple 77.353
Sally-Lunn 77.361
Salmon 77.370
Samp 77. 376
Sausage-and-Tomato 77. 407
Savoury 77. 268
Savoury Rice 77. 338
Savoury Rusk 77. 351
Saxe- Weimar 77. 268
Schneider 77. 268
870 TEE
Puddings, Semolina ii. 416
Seven-Cup 77. 268
Sherry Sponge ii. 447
Sir Watkin Wynne’s ii. 268
Snow ii. 268
Snowdon ii. 268
Sparrow ii. 498
Sponge ii. 268
Sponge Cake ii. 504
Squash ii. 510
Steamed ii. 241
Stewed ii. 241
St. John’s ii. 267
Strawberry ii. 521
Suet, baked ii. 532
Suet, boiled ii. 532
Suet, fried ii. 532
Sweet or Spanish ii. 242
Tansy ii. 566
Tans/ and-Spinach ii. 567
Tapioca ii. 569
Tapioca and Apple ii- 567
Tapioca Custard ii. 568
Tipsy ii. 269
Toast ii. 269
Tomato-and-Cornflour ii. 601
Tomato-and-Meat ii. 603
Traveller’s ii. 269
Treacle ii. 612
Treacle-aml Plum ii. 612
Truffle ii. 629
Turnip ii. 662
Vanilla ii. 679
Vanilla Souffle ii. 680
Veal ii. 721
Vegetable ii. 269, 729
Vegetable -marrow ii. 734
Venison ii. 742
Venus ii. 269
Vermicelli ii. 744
Victoria ii. 269
Vienna ii. 269
Violet’s ii. 269
Wafer ii. 269
Water ii. 269
White ii. 768
Whiting ii. 774
Windbags ii. 269
without Milk or Eggs ii. 267
Wrexham ii. 269
Yeast ii. 803
Yorkshire ii. 803
Puff Paste ii. 1 12
Cakes ii. 121
Puffs ii. 270
Apple i. 33
Cottage ii. 270
English ii. 270
French ii. 270
German ii. 270
Irish ii. 270
Italian ii. 270
Lemon i. 850
Mutton 7. 991
Prussian ii. 270
Spanish ii. 270
Transparent ii. 270
Pulled Bread i. 192
Pullna Water i. 3
Pulp, preserved Barberry i. 77
Pulque ii. 27 1
Pulse ii. 27 1
Pumpion ii. 27 1
Pumpernickel ii. 27 1
Ice i. 192
Pumpkin ii. 27 1
a ritalienue ii. 27 1
Bread i. 183
Butter ii. 27 1
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL
Purnkin Cliease 77.271
Custard Pies ii. 27 1
Flowers stuffed with Forcemeat ii.
272
Fritters ii. 272
Mashe :1 ii. 27 1
Pie ii. 272
Preserved ii. 271
Pudding ii. 272
Rice and ii. 272
Soup ii. 272
Stewed ii. 273
Tomatoes with ii. 273
Punch ii. 273
Angelica i. 22
Bavaroise of ii. 275
Champagne i. 333
Cider i. 389
Cream Bonbons ii. 275
Cream Ice ii. 27 6
Drops ii. 276
eu Surprise ii. 275
Essence ii. 275
Gin i. 676
Jelly ii. 276
Kirschenwasser i. 800
Leander ii. 68
Maraschino i. 910
Milk i. 940
Pineapple ii. 196
Rum ii. 349
Souffle ii. 276
Strawberry ii. 522
Tea Milk ii. 578
Water Ice ii. 276
Whisky ii. 767
Puncheon ii. 276
Punshki ii. 276
Purges ii. 276
Artichokes i. 50
Asparagus i. 54
Barley 7.79
Beef, Soup i. 103
Belgian i. 132
Carrot i. 305
Green Peas ii. 127
Ham 7.741
Haricot Beans 7. 93
Haricot Beans, a la Soubise 7. 93
Haricot Bean, for Soup 7. 92
Mango 7. 908
Red Haricot Beans, of 7. 93
Purl 77. 27 7
Purslane ii. 277
Q
Quails 77. 277
a la Crapaudine 77. 279
a la Freres Provenpaux 77. 27 9
a la Jardiniere 77. 27 9
a la Turque 77. 27 9
a l’Espagnole 77. 27 9
Aspic of, a la Strasburg 77. 277
au Gratin 77.279
Ballotines 77. 277
Boiled in Bladders 77.27 9
Braised, and Celery Sauce 77. 277
Broiled 77. 27 8
Cliaudfroid 77. 278
Collops of, with Truffles 77. 278
Compote 77. 27 8
COOKERY.
Quails, Galantine 77. 27 8
Green Peas, with ii. 279
incases 77.27 9
in Macedoine ii. 279
in vine leaves 77. 280
Larded 77. 278
Pie ii. 279
Pilau 77. 27 8
Potted 77. 278
Roasted ii. 280
Salad 77. 280
Salmis 77. 280
Stewed 77. 280
with T ruffles ii. 280
Quaking Pudding 77. 267
Quart 77. 280
Quass 77. 280
Quassia 77.281
Queen Cakes, Heart or 7.248
Mab’s Pudding 77. 267
Pudding 77. 267
Soup 77. 490
Queen’s Bread 7. 183
Sauce 77. 394
Queimado 77.281
Quenelles 77.281
Cold Meat 7. 924
Liver 7. 864
Quillaia Bark 77.281
Quince 77.281
Apple and, Butter 77. 282
Apple and, Jelly 77. 283
Apple and, Tart 77. 283
Blanc-mange 77. 283
Brandied 77. 282
Cakes 77. 283
Cheese 77. 283
Cordial 77. 283
Cream 77. 283
Cream Ice 77. 283
Iced Pudding 77. 283
Jelly 77. 283
Liqueur 77. 284
Marmalade 77. 284
Paste 77. 284
Pickled 77. 282
Pie 77. 284
Preserved 77. 282
Pudding 77. 284
Ratafia 77. 284
Salad 77. 284
Stewed 77. 285
Stuffed with Almond Paste 77. 284
' Sugared 77. 285
Syrup 77. 285
Tart, Apple and 7. 34
Trifle 77 2 85
with Cream 77. 283
Quinnat 77. 285
Quin’s Sauce 77. 402
R
Rabbit 77. 285
a la Jardiniere 77.292
a 1’Italienne 77. 292
Attereaux 77. 286
au Gratin 77. 292
Baked 77. 286
Barbecued 77. 286
Blanquette 77. 286
Boiled 77. 287
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
871
Rabbit Boudins ii. 287
Braised with Pistachio-nuts ii.
287
Broiled ii. 287
Broth ii. 293
Civet ii. 287
Colloped ii. 287
Collops served in a Border ii. 293
Cream ii. 293
Croquettes ii. 293
Curried ii. 288
Curried Fillets ii. 288
Cutlets ii. 293
Devilled ii. 288
Dumplings ii. 293
eu Friteau ii. 292
Entree ii. 293
Epigramme ii. 288
Essence ii. 289
Fillets ii. 289
Forcemeat Cakes ii. 293
Forcemeat ii. 290
Fricassee ii. 290
Fried ii. 290
Galantine ii. 291
Gibelotte ii. 291
Grenadines ii. 291, 294
Hashed, a la Portugaise ii. 291
Jugged ii. 29 1
Legs of, a la Main tenon ii. 291
drivers fried with Bacon ii. 294
Liver Sauce ii. 294
Marbled ii. 291
Matelote ii. 292
Minced ii. 292
Mulligatawny ii. 294
Mumbled ii. 292
Oyster and, Pie ii. 294
Panachd ii. 294
Pate ii. 295
Pie ii. 295
Pie, Scotch ii. 298
Potato and, Pie ii. 295
Potted ii. 292
Preserved ii. 292
Pudding ii. 295
Pulled ii. 292
Puree ii. 296
Ragout ii. 297
Rissoles ii. 296
Roasted ii. 298
Salad ii. 296
Sausages ii. 296
Smothered in Onions ii. 298
Soup ii. 297
Stewed ii. 298
Stock ii. 297
Timbale ii. 299
To Carve i. 314
Trussed like Poultry ii. 297
Turban ii. 300
Venetian style ii. 297
with Olives ii. 294
with Tarragon ii. 297
Racahout ii. 300 ’
Races ii. 300
Racine Soup ii. 491
Rack ii. 300
Radishes ii. 300
Raglan Pudding ii. 267
Ragout i. 864, ii. 301
Cold Meat i. 924
Rabat Lakoum ii. 302
Railroad Cake i. 249
Raised-Pie, Beef i. 103
Raisin Cake ii. 303
Crusts ii. 303
Pudding, Baked ii. 303
Pudding, Boiled ii. 303
Raisin Pudding Iced ii. 303
Roly-poly ii. 303
Sherbet ii. 304
Wine ii. 304
Raisins ii. 302
Almonds and, for Dessert i. 13
Stewed ii. 304
Raisinet i. 658
Raki ii. 304
Ramazan Cakes i. 249
Ramekins ii. 304
Rampion ii. 305
Ranges and Stoves ii. 514
Rape ii. 305
Rare ii. 305
Rarebit, American i. 346
Welsh i. 353
Rasp ii. 305
Raspberry, Almond and, Cream Ice
ii. 306
Almond and, Ice i. 13
Biscuits ii. 300
Blanc-mange ii. 306
Bottled ii. 305
Bouchces des Dames ii. 306
Brandy ii. 306
Butter Sauce ii. 306
Cake ii. 307
Caramels ii. 307
Charlotte ii. 307
Cheese ii. 307
Cherry and, Jam ii. 307
Compote ii. 307
Cordial ii. 307
Cream ii. 307
Cream and, Pie ii. 308
Cream Ice ii. 308
Crusts ii. 308
Custard ii. 309
Custard Pudding ii. 309
Drops ii. 309
Dumplings ii. 309
Fool ii. 309
Fritters ii. 309
Icing ii. 309
Jam ii. 309
Jam Pudding ii. 310
Jelly ii. 310
Juice ii. 310
Julep ii. 310
Liqueur ii. 3 1 0
Marmalade ii. 310
Marzipan ii. 310
N.ip ii. 310
Noyau ii. 311
Pastille Drops ii. 311
Pie ii. 311
Pudding ii. 3 1 1
Pulp for Ices ii. 311
Salad ii. 311
Sauce ii. 3 1 1
Sherbet ii. 3 1 1
Sponges it. 3 1 1
Strawberry and, Jam ii. 311
Syrup ii. 3 1 2
Tablets ii. 312
Tart ii. 312
Trifle ii. 312
Venice Cakes ii. 312
Vinegar ii. 312
Vinegar Syrup ii. 313
Water ii. 313
'Water Ice ii. 313
Wine ii. 313
Raspberry-and-Currant Jam ii. 308
Jelly ii. 308
Pie ii. 308
Pudding ii. 308
Shrub ii. 308
Raspberry and-Currant Syrup ii. 309
Tart ii. 309
Tartlets ii. 309
Water Ice ii. 309
Raspberries ii. 305
Frozen ii. 305
Glace es ii. 309
Iced ii. 305
Preserved ii. 306
Raspings and Breadcrumbs i. 190
Ratafia ii. 313
Angelica i. 22
Apple Tart ii. 315
Apricot i. 43
Balls ii. 314
Blancmange ii. 315
Cheese-cakes ii. 315
Cream ii. 314
Cream Ice ii. 314
Pudding ii. 314
Trifle ii. 315
Ratafias ii. 315
Ravigote ii. 315
Butter ii. 217
Sauce ii. 394
Sauce Provenfale ii. 394
Ravioles ii. 316
Raw Meat 7.919
Scraps of, Stewed i. 128
Reading Sauce ii. 402
Rechauffe ii. 317
Cod i. 417
Fish i. 595
Red Cabbage i. 224
Boiled i. 224
Boiled, with Oysters i. 224
Celery, Salad and i. 225
Pickled i. 224
Salad i. 225
Stewed i. 225
Red Colouring i. 427
Red and White Currant Jelly, Raspberry
and i. 502
Red Currant
Cherry Wine, and i. 498
Cream, Whipped i. 500
Drops i. 498
Fool i. 498
Gin i. 498
Jam i. 498
Jelly i. 498
Julep i. 499
Marmalade i. 499
Pain or Cake i. 499
Paste i. 499
Pastilles i. 499
Preserve i. 499
Pudding i. 499
Sauce 4. 499
Shrub i. 499
Syrup i. 500
Vanilla-flavoured Bomb i. £00
Vinegar i. 500
Wine i. 500
Red Currants i. 497
Bottled i. 497
Compote i. 497
Preserved Pulp i. 498
Sugared i. 500
Red-Currant-and-Raspberry, or Cherry
Tart i. 499
Paste Drops i. 499
Pudding i. 499
Water i. 499
Red Currant Jelly Cakes i. 498
and Cream i. 498
Omelet i. 498
Sauce i. 498
Red- or White-Currant Shrub i. 503
872
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Red- or White-Currant Sweet Salad *'. 502
Tartiets *'. 503
Water *'. 503
Wine *'. 503
Red Haricot Beans a la Eourguignonne
*'. 93
Purd e of *'. 93
Purd e Soup *'. 93
Stewed *'. 93
with Wine *'. 93
Red Herrings *'. 704
Red Mullet *'. 954
a 1’Italienne *'. 957
a la Provenfal *'. 957
Baked *'. 954
Boiled *'. 955
Braised *'. 955
Broiled *'. 956
Cornets, in *'. 957
Fried *'. 956
Ragout of Fillets i. 956
Stewed *'. 957
Red Round of Beef, Baked *'. 99
Red Piquant Sauce ii. 394
Salad ii. 358
Soup ii. 491
Reducing ii. 316
Reed Birds *7.316
Refection ii. 3 17
Refectory **.317
Reform Sauce ii. 394
Refreshing Broth *. 204
Refreshments and Ball Suppers *’. 68
Refrigerating **.317
Regatta Cake *'. 249
Regency Sauce ii. 394
Regent Sauce ii. 402
Reindeer Tongues **.317
Relish, Anchovy i. 20
Remoulade **.317
Sauce ii. 394
Removes **.317
Removing Salt from Butter i. 216
Rennet **.317
Restoring Rancid Butter *'. 216
Revalenta Arabica *'*.318
Revere Pudding ii. 267
Rheims Biscuits *’. 145
with Cream and Kirschenwasser
i. 145
Rhine Wines **.318
Rhubarb **.318
Apple and, Jelly ii. 318
Bottled **'.318
Champagne **.318
Cheese **.318
Cider **.319
Cream ii. 3 1 9
Cream Ice **'.319
Fool *’*’.319
Fritters ii. 319
(linger *'*.319
Ginger and, Jam ii. 319
Jam *’*‘.319
Jelly ii. 320
Marmalade ii. 320
Meringue with ii. 320
Orange and, Jam ii. 320
Pie ii. 320
Preserved *'*’.318
Pudding ii. 320
Shape ii. 320
Sherbet ii. 320
Stewed ii. 321
Tartlets *’*'.321
Vinegar *’*'.321
Wine **’.321
Ribbon Blancmange *’. 157
Cake *’. 249
Ribs of Beef, Baked i. 99
Boning *'. 168
Braised ?'. 109
Braised, with Macaroni *’. 109
Broiled, with Marrow *'. 112
Cold Stewed, with Aspic Jelly
*'. 1 13
Pickled, Boiled Tom Thumb *’. 108
Roasted *. 123
Roasted Rolled *. 124
Rib-steak, Broiled *'. 112
Broiled a la Bordela'.se *’. 112
Rice **'.321
a la Bearnaise ii. 327
a la Conde ii. 327
a la Francaise ii. 327
a la Menagere **’.327
a la Milanaise ii. 327
a la Ristori ii. 328
<i rimperatrice ii. 327
Almond Pudding and i. 13
Apple and, Pudding ii. 328
Apple Pudding with *'. 33
Apricots with *’. 43
Balls ii. 328
Balls, Italian *'*’.327
Balls, Meat and ii. 333
Batter Cakes ii. 328
Batter Cakes with *'. 86
Blackcap Pudding ii. 328
Boiled ii. 322
Border ii. 328
Bread *'. 183
Broth ii. 328
Cabbage and, Soup ii. 328
Cake ii. 328
Carriole ii. 322
Case or Croustade ii. 329
Casserole ii. 323
Cassolettes ii. 329
Cheese ii. 329
Cheese-cakes ii. 329
Coffee ii. 329
Cream ii. 329
Creamed ii. 323
Cream of, Soup ii. 323
Croquettes ii. 330
Croustades of, a la Reine ii. 323
Croustades of, Meringue ii. 323
Crusts ii. 330
Curried ii. 323
Custard ii. 330
Cutlets ii. 330
Cutlets, Fowl and ii. 331
Drop Cakes *'*'.331
Fandango ii. 33 1
Flawn ii. 33 1
Fool ii. 331
Fried ii. 323
Fried, Balls ii. 323
Fried, Cakes *'*'.323
Fritters *'*'.331
Glazed ii. 324
Gratin of ii. 324
Griddle Cakes *’*".331
Ground ii. 324
Gruel ii. 332
Hard-boiled Eggs with ii. 332
Jelly ii. 332
Kedgeree ii. 332
Kheer ii. 332
Lamb’s Sweetbreads with ii. 332
Lemon *. 850
Maltese style, in ii. 332
Mange ii. 332
Manx Cake ii. 332
Meringue ii. 333
Milk ii. 333
Muffins ii. 333
Rice Pancakes ii. 333
Paste ii. 333
Patties ii. 333
Peas and ii. 334
Pie ii. 334
Pilau ii. 334
Porridge ii. 334
Pudding ii. 334
Pudding, Fruit and ii. 331
Pudding, Iced ii. 326
Pudding, Italian ii. 32 7
Pudding, Macaroon and ii. 332
Pudding, Oatmeal and ii. 333
Pudding, Raisin and ii. 336
Pudding, Tapioca and ii. 337
Puffs ii. 335
Pyramids for Forcemeat or Sausages
ii. 335
Quische ii. 336
Savoury ii. 338
Shape *'*'.336
Snowballs ii. 336
Souffle ii. 336
Soup ii. 336
Soup, Cream ii. 329
Soup, Onion and ii. 333
Soup, Pea and **.334
Soup, Sorrel and ii. 336
Soup, Tomato and ii. 338
Stewed Fruit with ii. 337
Stuffing for Sucking-pig ii. 337
Timbale ii. 337
Turban of, and Stewed Apples
ii. 338
Turkish style, in ii. 338
Waffles ii. 338
Water ii. 338
Rich Cake *'. 250
Man’s Soup ii. 491
Pudding ii. 267
White Soup ii. 491
Richelieu Cake *'. 250
Ricotta ii. 339
Rind ii. 339
Rinfresco ii. 339
Ringlets, Cold Meat *’. 924
Rings ii. 339
Lemon *'. 850
Rip Van Winkle Punch ii. 275
Riscasoli Cake *’. 250
Risen Cake *’. 250
Risot, Neapolitan ii. 327
Risotto ii. 338
Rissoles ii. 339
Beef *'. 103
Cold Meat *'. 924
Crayfish *'. 459
Fish *'. 594
F orcemeat *’. 605
Fowl *’. 624
Game *’. 665
Lobster *'. 875
Macaroni *'. 890
Mutton *’. 992
Veal *'*’.721
llissolettes ii. 340
Beef *’. 103
Rizine ii. 340
Rizzolletti of Lentils *'. 858
Roach ii. 340
Boiled ii. 340
Broiled ii. 340
Stewed *'*. 340
Roasted Chaudron i. 266
Roasting ii. 340
Robert ii. 342
Cakes *'. 250
Sauce ii. 395
Rocambole ii. 342
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Robins 77. 34‘2
Rochelle Brandy 77. 342
Rock ii. 342
Cakes i. 250
Candy i. 28 1
Cocoa-nut i. 411
Coltsfoot i. 428
Lemon i. 850
Rockfish ii. 342
Striped Bass or i. 83
Rocolnic ii- 343
Rod Gib ii. 343
Rodon Cake i. 251
Roe ii. 343
Carp’s i. 301
Carp’s, Fried i. 302
Cod’s i. 418
Fish, Fried i. 595
Fresh Herring i. 762
Mackerel i. 901
Scalloped Fish i. 596
Shad ii. 434
Soup ii. 343
Stewed ii. 343
Toast ii. 343
Roebuck ii. 343
Baked ii. 343
Braised ii. 344
Cliaudfroid ii. 344
Crepinettes ii. 344
Cutlets ii. 344
Epigrammes ii. 344
Hashed ii. 344
Minced ii. 344
Roasted ii. 344
Roll Cake i. 25 1
Lemon i. 850
Boll of Beef, Boiled, Salted i. 107
Braised, a la Minton i. 110
Braised, with Nouilles i. 110
Rolled Beef i. 124
Beefsteaks i. 124
Biscuits i. 145
Cheese ii. 616
Flank of Beef i. 125
Ribs of Beef, Roasted i. 1 24
Rolling pin ii. 345
Rolls, American Astor House i. 184
American Parker House i. 184
Batter i. 87
Butter, for Tea i. 184
Caraway i. 184
Derbyshire i. 184
Family i. 184
French i. 184
German i. 185
Irish i. 185
Mannheim i. 185
Milk i. 185, 941
Potato i. 185
Swedish i. 186
Tea or Breakfast i. 186
Turin i. 186
Twists and i. 184
Vienna i. 186
Roly-Poly, Apple i. 34
Roman Cake i. 251
Punch ii. 275
Rooks ii. 345
Roots ii. 346
Roquefort Cheese i. 345
Sandwich i. 352
Rosbach Wat er i. 3
Rosebuds ii. 537
Candy i. 281, ii. 346
Clouded Cake, or i. 251
Cream Cordial ii. 346
Cream Ice ii. 346
Drops ii. 346
Rosebuds, Jam ii. 346
Liqueur ii. 347
Lozenges i. 884, ii. 347
Petals, Candied ii. 346
Sauce ii. 402
Souffles ii. 347
Syrup ii. 347
Water Cake ii. 347
Water Ice ii. 347
Rosemary ii. 347
Roses ii. 346
Attar of, for Flavouring ii. 346
Confection i. 429, ii. 346
Cream ii. 346
Essence ii. 346
Rosolios ii. 347
Rosquillas ii. 347
Rotterdam Soup ii. 491
Roulade de Veau ii. 702
of Beef i. 125
Roulette, Beef i. 103
Roumanian Sweet Cake i. 251
Round of Beef i. 97
Boiled, Salted i. 107
Red, Baked i. 99
Rout ii. 347
Biscuits i. 146
Cakes i. 251
Roux ii. 347
Liaison i. 86 1
Royal Biscuits i. 146
Cake 7.251
Sauce ii. 395
Sausages ii. 406
Royans ii. 348
Rudd ii. 348
Ruffs and Reeves ii. 348
Buggies Cake 7.251
Rum ii. 348
Buns 7.211, 77.348
Butter ii. 348
Cream 77. 348
Favourite 77. 348
Jelly 77. 349
Julep 77. 349
Omelet 77. 349
Pineapple 77. 196
Preserve 77. 349
Pudding 77. 349
Punch 77. 349
Sauce ii. 349
Shrub 77. 349
Sling ii. 349
Rump of Beef 7. 97
a la Portugaise 7. 125
Boiled 7. 107
Braised 7. 110
Roasted 7. 124
Rump-steak, Braised 7. 110
Broiled 7. 112
Stewed in Wine 7. 125
Rusk Cake 77.351
Fritters 77.351
Ices 77.351
Pudding 77.351
Shape 77.351
Rusks 77. 350
French 77. 350
German 77. 350
Italian 77. 350
Raspberries with 77. 351
Sw'iss 77. 35 1
Russian Balorine 7. 70
Biscottine 7. 136
Julienne Soup 77. 491
Salad 77. 358
Soup 77. 49 1
Wines 77. 351
Rye 77. 352
Rye Bread 7. 183
Cakes 77. 352
Gems 77. 352
in Imitation of Coffee 77. 352
Muffins 77. 352
Mush 77. 352
Soup, Green 77. 352
Whisky Cocktail 7. 405
s
Sabavon 77. 352
Sauce with Madeira 77. 400
Sabotiere 77. 353
Saccharinated Aerated Water 7. ^
Sachsen Sauce for Fish 77. 395
Sack 77. 353
Sack-Mead 7. 917
Saddle 77. 353
Lamb 7. 805
Mutton, Baked 7. 971
Safes 77. 353
Saffron 77. 353
Buns 7.211
Sage 77. 353
Gargle 77. 353
Green Cheese, or 7. 346
Stuffing, and Onion 77. 353
Sago 77. 353
Cakes 77. 353
Cream 77. 354
Dumplings for Soup 77. 354
Gruel 77. 354
Jelly 77. 354
Milk 77. 354
Pie, and Vegetable 77.355
Pudding 77. 354
Pudding, Apple and 77. 353
Shapes 77.355
Soft cake 77. 355
Souffle 77. 355
Soup 77. 355
Soup, and Beer 77. 353
Sailor’s Sauce 77. 3 95
Saintonge 77. 355
Sake 77. 355
Salad 77. 355
a la Chef de Cuisine 77. 359
a ITtalienne 77. 359
Anchovy 7. 30
Artichoke-and Tomato 7. 49
Asparagus 7. 53
Asparagus-and -Salmon 7. 53
Aspic Jelly Sauce for 7. 55
Bacon 7. 64
Bamboo 7.70
Beef 7. 104
Beetroot 7. 131
Bohemia 77. 356
Boiled Haricot Beans, of 7. 9
Boutargue 7. 173
Bouquet 77. 356
Bread 7. 189
Brunswick 77. 356
Cabbage 7. 22 1
Calf’s Feet 7. 269
Calf’s Head 7. 27 1
Calf’s Liver 7. 277
Carrot 7. 305
Cauliflower 7. 322
874
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Salad, Cauliflower-and-Asparagus 7. 320
Celery 7. 327
Chard 7. 336
Cheese 7. 349
Cockle 7. 405
Cocoa-nut 7.411
Cold Boiled Beef, of 7. 125
Cold-Meat 7. 924
Cold-Meat-and-Potato 7. 924
Convent ii. 356
Corn-Salad 7. 444
Country 77. 356
Crab i. 450
Cray-fish, with Aspic i. 460
Cream ii. 360
Cress i. 47 8
Cucumber i. 487
Dandelion 7.515
Dandelion-and-Beetroot 7. 515
d’Estrdes ii. 359
Duck’s Egg 7. 535
Dumas ii. 356
Dutch 77. 356
Egg 7. 560
Egg-and Beetroot 7. 555
Endive 7. 572
Farmer’s 77. 356
Fern 7. 580
Fig 7.581
Fillets of Sole 77. 470
Fish 7. 594
Fisherman’s 77. 357
Florida 77. 357
Flounder 7. 599
Fowl 7. 624
French 77. 357
Frencli-Bean 7.91
Fresh -Herring 7.762
Frog 7. 65 1
Fruit 7.657
Game 7. 665
Genoa 77. 357
German 77. 357
Green Pea 77. 126
Grouse 7. 724
Guinea Fowl 7. 727
Hop 7. 770
Italian 77. 357
Jardiniere 77. 358
Japanese 77. 357
Jerusalem - Artichoke • and Onion
7. 50
Kitchener’s Cooked 77. 358
Kohl-Rabi 7. 803
Lamb 7.813
Leek 7. 835
Lettuce 7. 859
Lettuce-and-Tomato 7. 860
Lobster 7. 875
Macaroni 7. 890
Macedoine 77. 358
Martino 7.914
Mixed Fruits 7.502
Mulberry 7. 953
Musk melon 7.931
Mussel 7. 967
Nantese 77. 358
Nasturtium 77. 1
of Vegetables with Aspic Jelly 77. 359
Okra 77. 17
Onion-and-Tomato 77. 27
Orange 77. 43
Oyster 77. 79
Pancakes with Potato 77. 87
Parsnip 77. 92
Partridge 77. 106
Pear 77. 144
Periwinkle 77. 151
Pigeon 77. 182
Salad, Pig’s Feet 77. 171
i’ig’s Head Cheese 77. 173
Pineapple 77. 196
Plaice 77. 203
Plain 77. 358
Polish 77. 358
Potato 77. 237
Potato and Onion 77.234
Prawn 77. 246
Primrose 77.247
Quail 77. 280
< Quince 77. 284
Babbit 77. 296
Radish 77.301
Raspberry 77. 3 1 1
Red 77. 358
Red Cabbage 77. 225
Russian 77. 358
Salmagundi 77.361
Salmon 77. 370
Salsify 77. 370
Salted Cod 7. 417
Samphire 77. 377
Sardine 77.381
Sausage 77. 407
Shad 77. 434
Shrimp 77. 449
Skate 77. 454
Smelt 77. 458
Smoked Eel 7. 546
Sole 77. 473
Sorrel 77. 475
Spanish 77. 359
Spinach 77. 502
Sportsman 77. 359
Strawberry 77. 522
Suedoise 77. 359
Sugar Pea 77. 128
Summer 77. 359
Swedish 77. 360
Sweetbread 77.551
Terrapin 77. 584
Tomato 77. 605
Tomato and Artichoke 77. 600
Tomato and-Cucumber 77. 601
Tongue 77.610
Tripe 77.617
Trout 77. 624
Truffle 77. 629
Truffle and Celery 77. 627
Truffle-and Potato 77. 629
Turbot 77. 644
Turnip 77. 662
Turnip-top 77. 663
Veal and-Potato 77.721
Vegetable 77. 729
Venison 77. 742
Walnut 77.758
Watercress 7. 478
Whelk 77.766
Whitebait 77.768
White-Cabbage 7. 224
Winter 77. 360
Yam 77. 800
Salad-Dressing '77.360
Bacon-fat 7.64
Cream 7. 469
Salad-oil 77. 300
Salamander 77. 360
Salep or Saloop 77. 374
Salicylic Acid 77. 360
Saline Aerated Water 7. 4
Sally Lunns 77.361
Pudding 77.361
Salmagundi 77.361
Salad 77.361
Salmi or Salmis 77.361
of Black Diver 7. 154
of Game 7. 667
Salmi Sauce 77. 395
Salmon 77.361
a la Genoise 77. 366
a la Goufie 77. 366
a l’Allemande 77. 366
a la Maitre d ll 6 tel 77. 367
ii la Montpelier 77. 367
a la Vatel 77. 367
a l’ltalienne 77. 367
Asparagus Salad and 7. 53
Aspic Jelly, with 77. 367
au Gratin 77. 366
Baked 77. 362
Boiled 77. 362
Bouchces 77. 367
Boudins 77. 363
Broiled 77. 363
Cake 77. 367
Cassolettes 77. 368
Chaudfroid 77. 364
Cold, Sauce for 77. 395
Collared 77. 364
Cromeskies 77. 368
Croquettes 77. 368
Curried 77. 364
Cutlets 77. 368
Cutlets, Boiled 77. 363
Dame 77. 364
Darne of, Marinaded 77. 364
en Matelote 77. 367
Fillets 77. 364
Fricasseed 77. 365
Fried 77.361
Grilled, Cutlets 77. 365
Jelly, in 77. 369
Kedgeree 77. 365
Kippered 77 . 37 1
Mayonnaise 77. 365
Omelet 77. 369
Patties 77. 369
Pickled 77. 365
Pie 77. 369
Potted 77. 366
Pudding 77. 370
Rhenish style 77. 370
Roasted 77. 366
Rolled a 1’ Irlandaise 77. 366
Salad 77.370
Scalloped 77. 37 1
Soup 77. 37 1
Soused 77.371
Stewed 77.371
Tinned 77. 372
Toast ’ 77. 37 I
Vol au Vent 77. 371
Salmon Trout 77.373
a la Chef de Cuisine 77. 373
a la Moderne 77. 373
a la Polonaise 77. 374
au Gratin 77. 373
Boiled 77. 373
Truffles, with 77.374
Saloop or Salep 77. 374
Salpicons 77. 374
Salsify 77. 374
a la Poulette 77. 375
Aspic, in 77. 375
Boiled 77. 374
Cakes or Mock Oysters 77. 375
Croquettes 77. 375
Fried 77. 375
Fritters 77. 375
Parmesan Cheese, with 77. 375
Patties 77. 375
Salad 77. 375
Sauce 77. 375
Scalloped 77. 375
Stewed 77.376
| Salt 77.376
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
875
Salt, Cayenne 7. 288
Spiced 77. 499
Saltpetre 77. 736
Salted and Devilled Almonds i. 15
Bacon Dried and i. 62
Beef i. 125
Beef, Boiled Round i. 107
Salted Cod a la Bonne Femme i. 417
Boiled 7.414
Buttered i. 414
Cooked in Biscayan style i. 417
Fried i. 416
on Toast i. 417
Salad 7.417
Served in Brown Butter 7.417
Stewed 7.418
with Cheese 7.417
Salted Fish 7. 595, 596
Samp 77. 376
Samphire 77.37 6
Dried 77. 377
Pickled 77. 377
Salad 77. 377
Samshoo 77. 377
Sand Cakes 7. 233
with Marmalade 7. 253
Sand-Eels 77. 377
Sanders 77. 377
Sandwiches 77. 37 7
Aberdeen 7. 1, 77. 377
Adelaide 7.3, 77.378
Anchovy 7. 20
Apple 7. 34
Cheese 7. 349
Curry 7. 506
Dandelion 7. 5 15
Duchess 77.37 8
Duck 7. 530
Egg 7. 560
Fish 7. 594
Ham 7.741
Indian 77.378
Lenten 77.378
Pickle 77. 378
Potato 77. 238
Sardine 77.381
Sausage 77. 407
Savoury 77. 37 8
Tomato 77. 605
Tongue 77. 610
Veal 77.721
Sangaree 77.37 8
Sanitary Soup 77. 491
Santa 77. 378
Sapodilla 77.378
Sapucaia 77. 379
Sardine Butter 77. 380
Fingers 77.381
Omelet 77.381
Salad 77.381
Sandwiches 77. 38 1
Sauce 77. 382
Toast 77. 382
Sardines 77. 379
ala Maitre d’Hotel 77.3315
a la Piedmontaise 77. 380
Anchovy Toast, on 77. 380
an Parmesan 77. 380
Baked 77. 379
Boucliees 77. 37 9
Broiled 77. 379
Canapes 77. 379
Cases, in 77. 380
Curried 77. 380
Devilled 77. 380
Dressed 77. 380
Eggs, in 77. 380
en Papillotes 77. 380
Fried 77. 380
Sardines, Fritters 77.381
Mustard, witli 77. 381
Sarsaparilla 77.382
Sassafras 77, 382
Sauce 77. 382
Admiral’s 77. 3 85
Agro-Dolce 7. 4
a la Diaz 77. 400
Albert (Sweet Butter) 7. 217
Anchovy 7.21
Anchovy-and -Caper 7. 19
Anchovy-Butter 7. 19
Apple 7. 34
Apricot 7. 43
Arrowroot 7. 47
Asparagus (Hot) 7. 53
Aspic- Jelly 7.55
Aurora 7.59, 77.385
Australian 77.385
Bateliere 77. 385
Bavarian 77. 385
Bearnaise 77. 385
Bechamel 77. 386
Bechamel, Brown 77. 385
Berlin 77. 386
Bey rout 77. 386
Bigarade 77. 3 1
Black -Butter 7. 217
Black-Currant-Jelly 7. 496
Blanquette 77. 386
Blonde 77. 386
Boar’s Head, for 77. 395
Boiled Brisket of Beef, for 77. 395
Bordeaux 77. 386
Bottled 77. 401
Bourgeoise 77. 386
Brandy 7. 177
Bread 7. 189
Bretonne 77. 386
Brown 77. 387
Brown-Butter 7. 217
Burnt-Cream 7. 463
Butter 77. 217
Calf’s Brain 7. 266
Caper 7. 283
Caramel 7. 290
Caraway 7. 292
Cardinal 77. 387
Carrier 77. 387
Cauliflower 7. 322
Celery 7. 328
Champagne 7. 333
Chantausen 77. 400
Chateaubriand 77. 387
Chaudeau 7. 340
Chaudfroid Game 7.662
Cherry 7.361
Chestnut 7. 368
Chilli 7. 288
Chives 7. 373
Chocolate 7. 379
Cinnamon 7.391
Claremont 77. 387
Cockle 7. 405
Cocoa-nut Milk 7.410
Colbert 7. 426, 77. 387
Cold Salmon, for 77. 395
Corinthian 77. 387
Grab 7. 45 1
Crabs, for 77. 395
Cranberry 7. 456
Crapaudine 77. 387
Crayfish 7. »60
Cream 7. 469
Cucumber 7. 487
C ura y. o a 7. 493
Currant-Jelly 7.501
Curry 7. 506
Custard 7. 509
Sauce, Czarina 77. 387
Damson 7.514
Demi Provencale 77. 387
Devil 77. 387
Diplomatic 77. 387
Diplomatic, for Pudding
Drawn Butter 7.217
Duchess 77. 387
Dutch or Holland 77. 387
D’U xelles 77. 388
East-Indian 77.388
Egg 7. 560
Egg-Foam 7. 557
English Sweet 77. 400
Fair Maid’s 77. 388
Fennel 7.579
Financiere 77. 388
Fin e H erbs 7.586
Fish- Liver 7.592
Flemish 77. 388
Foam 77. 400
Fowl 7. 624
Fowl Bechamel 7. 617
Fowl's- Liver 7. 643
French 77. 389
Fricassee 77. 389
Fruit 7. 657
Garlic 7. 668
Garlic-Butter 7. 668
Geneva 7. 673, 77. 389
Genoa 77. 389
German 77.389, 400
Gherkin 7. 674
Giblet 7. 675
Ginger 7.682
Godard 77. 389
Golden 77. 400
Gooseberry 7. 705
Goose, for 77. 396
Gothic 77. 389
Governors 77. 402
Green 77. 389
Green-Tomato 77. 596
Grill 77. 390
Ham 7. 741
Hanover 77. 390
Hard 77. 400
Hare, for 77. 396
Hare-Liver 7.747
Harvey 77. 402
Hashes, for 77. 396
Hip 7. 766
Holstein 77. 390
Horseradish 7.771
Hot 77. 402
Indian 77. 390
Italian 77. 390
Jardiniere 77. 390
Jerusalem- Artichoke 7. 50
Kirschenwasser 7. 801
Kitchener’s 77. 402
Lemon 7. 850
Lemon-Butter 7. 838
Liver 7. 864
Livernaise 77. 390
Lobster 7. 877
Loin of Veal, for 77.396
Madeira 7. 904
Maintenon 77. 390
Maitre d’Hotel 77.391
Mandram 77. 391
Mango 7. 908
Marmalade 7.913
Marshal’s 77. 391
Matelote 77. 39 1
Matrimony 77. 391
Mayonnaise 7. 917, 77. 391
Milan 77. 391
Military 77. 392
77. 400
876
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Sauce, Minim’s ii. 392
Mint 7. 946
Mirepoix ii. 392
Mixed ii. 392
Mushroom ii. 962
Musketeer ii. 392
Mussel i. 967
Mustard ii. 969
Nasturtium ii. 2
Neapolitan ii. 392
Nonpareil ii. 392
Normandy ii. 392
Olive ii. 19
Onion ii. 27
Orange Marmalade ii. 41
Oyster ii. 80
Palestine ii. 392
Papillote ii. 392
Parmesan- Cheese ii. 90
Parsley -and-Butter ii. 91
Parsley-and Lemon ii. 91
Pascaline ii. 392
Pea-nut ii. 131
Perch, for ii. 396
Pdrigueux ii. 392
Pike, for ii. 396
Pink ii. 402
Piquant ii. 393
Plum Pudding, for ii. 400
Poivrade ii. 393
Polish ii. 393
Polish Sweet ii. 400
Pompadour ii. 393
Poor Man’s ii. 393
Portuguese ii. 394
Port-Wine i J 225
Poulette ii. 394
Premier ii. 402
Prince Alfred’s ii. 402
Princess ii. 394
Prince’s, Salad ii. 394
Provenpale ii. 394
Prune ii. 250
Prussian ii. 394
Queen’s ii. 394
Quin’s ii. 402
Rabbit- Liver ii. 294
Raspberry ii. 31 1
Raspberry Butter ii. 306
Ravigote ii. 394
Ravigote Provenpale ii. 394
Reading ii. 402
Red -Currant i. 499
Red-Currant-Jelly i. 498
Red Piquant ii. 394
Reform ii. 394
Regency ii. 394
Regent ii. 402
Remoulade ii. 394
Roasted Hare or Rabbit, for
ii. 396
Roasted Meats, for ii. 396
Robert ii. 395
Rose ii. 402
Royal ii. 395
Rum ii. 349
St. Menehould ii. 395
Sabayon, with Madeira ii. 400
Sachsen, for Fish ii. 395
Sailor’s ii. 395
Salmi ii. 395
Salsify ii. 375
Sardine ii. 382
Savoury ii. 385, 402
Shallot ii. 436
Shrimp ii. 450
Sicilian ii. 396
Skate’s-Liver ii. 454
Sorrel ii. 475
Sauce, Soubise ii. 396
Soy, for Fish ii. 496
Spanish ii. 397, 497
Sturgeon, for ii. 396
Sucking-pig,- for ii. 396
Supreme ii. 397
Sweet ii. 400, 401
Swiss ii. 401
Tamarind, for Game, &c. ii. 565
Tarragon ii. 57 1
Tartar ii. 398
Tomato ii. 605
Toulouse ii. 398
Transparent ii. 398
Truffle ii. 629
Turnip ii. 662
Universal ii. 402
Valois ii. 398
Vanilla ii. 679
Vanilla Cream ii. 678
Vegetable a la Lyonnaise ii. 733
Vegetable, for Fish ii. 729
Vegetable Marrow ii. 734
Velvet ii. 398
Venetian ii. 398
Victoria ii. 399
Villeroy ii. 399
Walnut ii. 757
Walnut and Anchovy, for Fish
ii. 756
White ii. 399
Wildfowl, for ii. 396
Wine ii. 789
Woodcock-Liver ii. 795
Worcester ii. 402
Yellow ii. 399
Sauceboats ii. 403
Saucepans ii. 403
Saucers ii. 403
Sauerbraten ii. 403
Sausage Balls ii. 407
Bologna i. 166
Cakes ii. 407
Entree ii. 407
Omelet ii. 407
Pudding, Tomato and ii. 407
Rolls ii. 407
Sandwiches ii. 407
Sausages ii. 403
a l’ltalienne ii. 407
Baked ii. 406
Bath ii. 404
Beef i. 104
Black Forest ii. 404
Boiled, and Artichokes ii. 406
Bologna ii. 405
Broiled with Truffles ii. 406
Cambridge ii. 405
Chicken and Ham 7.613
Devilled ii. 406
Egg 7.561
Frankfort 77.405
Fried 77.406
German ii. 405
Knack ii. 405
Lent ii. 405
Liver 7. 865
Madrid 77. 405
Maintz 77. 405
Mecklenberg 77. 405
Mutton 7. 992
Oxford ii. 405
Persian ii. 406
Pork 77.221
Royal 77. 406
Salad ii. 407
Smoked ii. 406
Stewed 77. 407
Swiss 77. 406
Sausages, Veal 77. 722
Westphalian 77. 406
White ii. 406
Sausartees 7. 999
Saute 77. 408
Fillets of Beef 7. 126
Lima Beans 7. 94
Sauterne 77. 408
Savalada 77. 470
Savarin Cake 7. 253
a 1’Anglaise 7. 254
Saveloys 77. 408
Liver 7. 865
Smoked 77. 408
Savoury Biscuits a la Melton 7. 146
Bread Pudding 7. 192
Cake 7. 254
Minced Beef Collops 7. 123
Omelet 77. 22
Pudding 77. 268
Rice 77. 338
Sandwiches 77. 378
Sauces 77. 385, 402
Toast 7. 192
Savoyard Soup 77.491
Savoy Biscuits 7. 146
Savoy Cabbages, Boiled 7. 224
Braised, for Garnishing 7. 224
Fried, and Bacon 7. 224
Stewed, in Cream 7. 224
Savoy Cake 7. 254
Almond 7. 13
with Oranges 7. 254
Saw, Meat 7. 919
Saws 77. 409
Saxe-Weimar Pudding 77.268
Scad 77. 409
Scalding 77. 409
Scallions 77. 409
Scalloped 77.410
Beef 7. 126
Jerusalem Artichokes 7. 51
Lobster 7. 880
Mussels 7. 968
Salmon 77. 571
Scallops 77. 409
Calf’s Liver with Fine Herbs, of
7. 278
Cod, of 7. 417
Schabzeiger Cheese 7. 346
Schenk Beer 77. 410
Schnapps 77.410
Schneider Pudding 77. 268
School Cake 7. 255
Schwarn Batter 7. 87
Scissors 77.410
Scones 77. 410
Barley-meal 7. 79
Cream 7. 469
Potato 77. 238
Soda 77. 463
Wheat-meal 77. 765
Scorzonera 77.411
Scotch Ales 77.411
Barley 7. 78
Bread 7. 183
Brose 7. 203
Broth 7. 205
Cakes 7. 255
Fat Brose 7. 203
Woodcock 7.510, 77.412
Scouring 77. 412
Scrambled Eggs 7. 566
Scrap Cakes 7. 255
Scrappel or American Brawn 7. 178
Scraps or Trimmings of Raw Beef
Stewed 7. 128
Scullery 77. 412
Scullion 77. 412
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
877
Sea- Cakes 7. 255
Crayfish 7. 4G1
Hedgehog ii. 412
Kale 77. 412
Soup ii. 402
Sea-Bream, Baked i. 193
Broiled, a la Maitre d’Hotel
i. 194
Seasoning ii. 415
Aromatic i. 45
Onion ii. 27
Seasons ii. 413
Seaweed i. 7
Seed-oil ii. 415
Segui ii. 415
Seibling ii. 415
Seltzer Water 7.3
Semola ii. 415
Semolina ii. 415
Pudding ii. 416
Souffle ii. 416
Soup ii. 417
Timbales ii. 417
Senna Confection i. 429
Sercial ii. 417
Service Berries ii. 417
Table 77.561
Serviettes 77.417
Accordion Fan 77. 417
Arrow-head ii. 417
Aram-Lily 77. 418
B.A. 77.418
Bat 77. 419
Bird 77. 420
Bishop’s Mitre ii. 420
Boat ii. 420
Book-slide 77. 421
Butterfly ii 421
Casket 77. 422
Collegian ii. 422
Crown 77. 422
Double Boat 77. 422
Double -Diamond 77. 423
Double-Pocket 77. 424
Double -pointed Fan 77. 424
Easel 77. 425
Every day 77. 425
Fan 77.425
Fleur de Lis 77. 425
Flower pot 77. 426
Fountain 77. 426
Four Pockets 77.426
Four-pointed Fan 77. 427
Italian -Cap 77. 427
Mitre 77. 427
Note 77. 428
Palm-leaf 77. 428
Pointed-Cap 77. 429
Pointed Fan 77. 429
Prince 77. 429
Roman 77. 430
Rosebud 77. 434
Shield 77. 43 1
Slipper 77. 431
St. Patrick's Cross 77. 430
Swiss 77.431
Tent 77. 43 1
Tower 77. 432
Tyrolese 77. 432
Water-lily 77.432
Seven-Cup Pudding 77. 268
Sevigny Soup 77. 492
Shaddocks 77. 435
Shads 77. 433
Shallots 77. 435
Shank 77 436
Shape, Apple 7. 34
Arrowroot 7. 47
Blackberry 7. 152
Shape, Chestnut 7. 368
Coffee, Marbled 7. 425
Cornflour 7. 444
Frait-and-Rice 7. 657
Gooseberry 7. 705
Jelly 7. 783
Rice 77. 336
Rusk 77.351
Sago 77.354
Sponge Cake 77. 505
Shark 77. 436
Shchi 77. 436
Sheep 77. 436
Sheep’s Brains 77. '36
Ears 77. 437
Feet 77. 437
Head 77. 439
Head Fish 77. 446
Hearts 77.441
Kidneys 77. 441
Liver 77. 444
Milk 77. 444
Pluck 77. 444
Tails 77. 444
Tongues 77. 444
Shell Biscuits 7. 146
Fish 77. 446
Sherbet 77. 446
Cream 7. 470
Currant 7.501
Lemon 7. 85 1
Orange 77. 43
Pine-apple 77. 196
Raisin 77. 304
Strawberry 77. 522
White-Cherry 7. 364
Sherry 77. 447
Cobbler 7. 402, 77. 447
Granite 77. 447
Jelly 77. 447
Sponge Pudding 77. 447
Shin of Beef Soup 7. 126
Ship or Sea Biscuits 7. 146
Shiraz 77. 447
Shortbread 77. 447, 448
Strawberry 77. 522
Shortcake, Apple 7. 34
Blackberry 7. 152
Strawberry 77. 522
Short Cakes 7. 255
Derby 7. 234
Short Paste 77. 1 14
Cakes 77. 122
Shoulder of Mutton, Boiled Boned
7. 971
Shoulders 77. 448
Shredding 77. 448
Shrewsbury Biscuits 7. 146
Cakes 7. 255
Shrimp, Omelet 77. 449
Patties 77. 449
Pie 77. 449
Rolls 77. 449
Salad 77. 449
Sauce 77. 450
Soup 77. 450
Stewed 77.451
Toast 77. 450
Shrimps 77. 448
Potted 77. 448
Scalloped 77. 448
Shrub 77.451
Brandy 7. 177
Lemon 7. 85 1
Strawberry 77. 523
Siberian Crabs 77. 45
Sicilian Sauce 77. 396
Side Boards 77.451
Sieves 77.451
Sillery 77. 451
Silver Cake 7. 256
Silversides 77.451
Beef, Boiled 7. 108
Beef, Stewed 7. 128
Simgo 77.451
Simmer 77. 452
Sinmel Cake 77. 452
Simple Aerated Water 7. 4
Cakes 7. 256
Candy 77. 537
Sinews 77. 452
Singeing 77. 452
Sinks 77. 452
Sippets 77. 452
Sirloin 77. 452
Beef, Braised 7. 110
Beef, Roasted 7. 124
Sirloin-steak Broiled 7. 112
Roasted, Larded 7. 24
SirWatkin Wynne’s Pudding ii
Skate 77. 452
a la Maitre d’Hotel 77. 454
a la Russe 77. 454
a la Ste. Menehould 77. 454
a ITtalienne 77. 454
Baked 77. 453
Boiled 77. 453
Crimped 77. 453
Fricasseed 77. 453
Fried 77.453
Liver 77. 454
Salad 77. 454
Soup 77. 454
Stewed 77. 454
Skeel 77. 454
Skewers 77. 454
Skimmers 77. 455
Skin 77. 455
Skink or Hocli Soup 77. 492
Skirrets 77. 455
Slapjacks 77. 455
Slice 77. 455
Slicers 77. 455
Slipcoat Cheese 7. 346, 77. 456
Sloes 77. 456
Sly Cakes 7. 256
Small Brioches 7. 199
Cakes 7. 256
Smash Whisky 77. 767
Smelts 77. 456
a la Bearnaise 77. 457
a la Boulangere 77. 457
a la Toulouse 77. 458
Attelettes of 77. 456
au Gratin 77. 457
Baked 77. 457
Boiled 77. 457
en Matelote 77. 458
Fried 77. 457
Garnish, as 77. 458
Potted 77. 457
Salad 77. 458
Saute's 77. 458
Stewed 77. 458
Stuffed 77. 458
Smoked Bacon 7. 63
Beef 7. ] 26
Beef Omelet 7. 126
Boar’s Head 7. 161
Hamburg Beef 7. 126
Sausages 77. 406
Smoke- Jack 77. 458
Smothered Beef 7. 126
Snails 77. 458
a la Bourguignonne 77. 459
a la Provencale 77. 459
a ITtalienne 77. 459
Baked 77. 459
'. 268
878
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Snails, Stewed ii. 459
Snail -and Frog Broth ii. 459
Snapdragon ii. 459
Snaps, Brandy 7. 177
Snipe ii. 459
Boudins ii. 459
Broiled ii. 460
Chaudfroid ii. 460
Crusts ii. 46 1
Fillets of, in cases ii. 4G0
Fried. 77. 460
Galantine ii. 460
Pie ii. 461
Ragout ii. 460
Roasted ii. 461
Salmi ii. 461
Stewed ii. 462
Snow, Apple i. 34
Cakes i. 256
Cheese i. 346
Cocoa-nut 7.411
Egg i. 561
Lemon i. 851
Pudding ii. 268
Snowball Cakes i. 256
Snowballs, Apple i. 34
Apricot i. 43
Snowdon Pudding ii. 268
Snowdrop Biscuits i. 146
Snowflake Cake i. 257
Socles ii. 462
Soda ii. 462
Batter Cakes ii. 463
Biscuits i. 146
Bread i. 183
Cakes i. 257
Cream ii. 463
Cream of Tartar Biscuits,
ii. 463
Scones ii. 463
Water ii. 463
Soft-Cake, Sago ii. 355
Soft Roes, Boiled Carp i. 302
Boucliees of, Carp i. 298
Soles ii. 463
a la Colbert ii. 470
a la Creme d’Anchois ii. 470
a la Hollandaise ii. 471
a la Maitre d’Hotel ii. 471
a la Marechal ii. 47 1
a la Mongolfier ii. 47 1
a l’Anglaise ii. 470
a la N ormande ii. 471
a la Parsienne ii. 472
a la Perigord ii. 472
a la Portugaise ii. 472
a la Trouville ii. 472
a l’Aurore ii. 470
a lltalienne 77.471
Aspic of Fillets of ii. 463
au Gratin 77. 47 1
au Supreme 77. 472
aux Fines Herbes 77. 471
Baked 77. 465
Baked Fillets of 77. 464
Boiled 77. 465
Boucliees 77.465
Broiled 77. 465
Consomme 77. 465
Croquettes 77. 472
Curried 77. 465
Fillets 77. 465
Fricandeau 77. 469
Fricassee 77. 469
F lied 77. 469
Grenade 77. 469
Mayonnaise 77. 470
Paupiettes 77. 470
Pie 77. 472
and
Soles, Roulettes 77. 470
Salad 77. 473
Salad of Fillets of 77. 470
Sandwich 77. 473
Scalloped 77. 470
Stewed 77. 473
Timbales 77. 473
Vol au-Vent 77.473
Water Souchet 77. 474
Solferino 77. 474
Soup 77. 492
Sop 77. 474
Sopsavine 77. 474
Sorbet 77. 474
American 77. 474
Champagne, with 77. 474
Rum, with 77. 474
Sorrel 77.47 4
au Gras 77. 475
au Maigre 77. 475
Bounce 77. 476
Cream 77. 474
Puree 77. 474
Salad 77. 475
Sauce 77. 475
Soup 77. 475
Soup, and Lentil 77. 475
Stewed 77. 475
Sot l’y-Laisse 77.476
Soubise 77.47 6
Sauce 77. 396
Soup 77. 492
Souchet, Water 77. 760
Souffle 77. 476
a la Paysanne 77. 478
Apple 7. 34
Apple, in Paste 7. 35
Souffle, Apricot 7. 43
Arrowroot 7. 47
Cake with Punch 7. 257
Calf’s Liver 7. 277
Carrots 7. 306
Cheese 7. 350
Cherry 7. 361
Chocolate 7. 379
Coffee 7. 425
Cold-Meat 7. 924
Cream 7.470
Cream Ice 7. 475
Custard 7. 509
Fritters 77. 47 8
Game 7. 666
Ginger 7. 682
Gooseberry 7. 706
Greengage 7. 7 17
lees 7. 775
Iced (Savoury) 77. 47 7
Iced (Sweet) 77. 47 7
Imperial 77.478
Lemon 7. 851
Lobster 7.878
Macaroni 7. 890
Milan 77. 478
Omelet 77. 22
Orange 77. 44
Orange-Marmalade 77. 41
Sago 77. 355
Semolina 77.416
Spanish 77. 478
Strawberry 77. 523
Tapioca 77.570
Tea 77.578
Vanilla 77. 679
Vanilla and -Chocolate 77. 677
York 77. 47 8
Zephyr 77. 478
Sounds, Cod’s 7. 419
Soups 77. 47 8
a la Mode Beef 7. 98
Soups, Albert Victor 77. 479
Almond 7. 13
American 77. 480
Andalusian 77. 480
Apple 7. 34
Apple-and- Currant 7. 28
Arrowroot 7. 47
Artichoke 7. 49
Asparagus 7. 53
Bagration 77. 480
Baked 77. 480
Baked Cottage 77. 480
Barley 7. 79
Barley Cream 7. 79
Batter Cream 7. 86
Beef 7. 104
Beef Puree 7. 103
Beer, for Cold Weather 7. 130
Beer, with Bread 7. 130
Beer, with Cream 7. 130
Bird’s-Nest 7. 136
Black Bean 7. 89
Bones for 7. 166
Bonne-Femme 77. 480
Bread 7. 190
Bread Croutons for 7. 188
Brisse 77. 480
Browning for 7. 206
Brunoise 77. 480
Buckwheat 7. 209
Butter 7. 218
Cabbage 7. 221
Calf’s-Head 7. 272
Calf’s-Kidney 7.274
Calf’s-Liver Balls for 7. 276
Calf’s Pluck 7. 279
Calia Cold 77. 480
Camerani 77. 480
Canneloni 77. 480
Capon 7. 286
Cappelletti 77. 480
Caraway 7. 292
Carmelite 77. 481
Carrot Puree 7. 305
Cauliflower 7. 320
Cauliflower Cream 7. 323
Celery 7. 328
Celery Cream 7. 326
Celery-and- Onion 7.327
Cheap 77. 481
Cheese 7. 350
Cherry 7. 362
Chestnut 7. 368
Chestnut Puree 7. 367
Chick-Pea 7.371
Chiffonade 7. 37 5
Chinese 77. 481
Chocolate 7. 379
Clam 7. 396
Clam-Cliowder 7. 395
Clear 77.481
Coburg 77.481
Cockle 7. 405
Colbert 77. 481
Conde 77.481
Cottage 77. 482
Countess 77. 482
Cow-Heel 7. 447
Crab 7. 451
Crapiva 7. 456
Crayfish 7. 460
Cream of Celery 7. 329
Cream of Rice 77. 323
Crecy 77. 482
Croutes-au-Pot 77. 482
Crown Prince’s 77. 482
Crupnic 77. 482
Cucumber 7. 488
Curd 7. 494
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
879
Soups, Curry *’. 506
Cussy ii. 482
Deer -Head -and -Feet *'*'. 743
Diplomatic ii. 4S3
D’Orsay ii. 483
Dove i. 527
Dry ii. 483
Duchess ii. 483
Duck *’. 530
I hick’s Giblet i. 535
Duke of Connaught ii. 483
Eel i. 543
Eelpout i. 549
Egg i. 56 1
Egg Bread in i. 19 1
Family ii. 483
Farmer’s ii. 483
Fish i. 594
Fisherman’s ii. 483
Flemish ii. 483
Florador i. 598
Fluke i. 601
Fou-Fou ii. 483
Fowl i. 626
French ii. 484
Game i. 666
German ii. 484
German Imperial ii. 484
Giblet i. 675
Gnocchi i. 691
Gourmet’s ii. 484
Graham Hour i. 708
Gravy *'. 7 15
Gray Mullet, a la Turque *'. 954
Green ii. 484
Green Corn i. Ill
Green Pea ii. 126
Green Rye ii. 352
Ground-Rice ii. 326
Grouse *.723
Guinea-fowl i. 727
Haddock i. 733
Hare i. 748
Haricot Bean i. 92
Haricot-Bean Puree for i. 92
Hasty ii. 484
Herb i. 760
Holstein ii. 484
Hominy i. 768
Hunter’s ii. 484
Imitation Hare i. 749
Invalid’s Digestive ii. 485
Invalids, for ii. 492
Italian ii. 485
Jardiniere ii. 485
Jenny Lind’s ii. 485
Jerusalem- Artichoke i. 50
J ugged ii. 485
J ulienne ii. 485
Kidney i. 797
Knuckle-of-Veal ii. 695
Lamb *.813
Lark i. 832
’ Leek i. 835
Leftover *'*.486
Lent ii. 486
Lentil i. 858
Lentil Puree i. 857
Lettuce i. 859
Ling i. 862
Liver i. 865
Lobster i. 878
Lorraine ii. 486
Macaroni i. 890
Macdonald ii. 486
Macedonian ii. 486
Mackerel i. 902
Marsala Wine i. 914
Meat *.921
Soups, Meg Merrilies ii. 486
Mikado ii. 487
Milanese ii. 487
Milk *'. 941
Milk-and-Beer i. 939
Milk-and Onion *'. 940
Mille Fanti ii. 487
Mock Bisk ii. 487
Mock Kidney i. 798
Mock Terrapin ii. 584
Mock Turtle ii. 670
Monaco ii. 487
Mullagatawny *.953, ii. 487
Mushroom *’. 963
Musketeer’s ii. 488
Mussel i. 967
Mutton i. 993
Neapolitan **.488
Nouille ii. 9
Oatmeal ii. 16
Okra ii. 17, 18
Onion ii. 27
Ox-tail ii. 64
Oyster ii. 8 1
Palestine ii. 85, 488
Pancake ii. 87
Parisian ii. 488
Parmesan -Cheese ii. 90
Parsnip ii. 93
Partridge ii. 107
Pasha ii. 488
Passa ii. 489
Pear ii. 144
Peas ii. 130
Penelope ii. 489
Perch ii. 150
Pheasant ii. 15S
Piedmont ii. 489
Pigeon ii. 183
Pig’s -Ears ii. 169
Pike ii. 189
Plain ii. 489
Plum ii. 209
Polish ii. 489
Polish Julienne ii. 489
Pomeranian ii. 489
Poor Man’s ii. 489
Pork ii. 221
Portable ii. 489
Portuguese ii. 490
Potato ii. 239
Pot au feu ii. 226
Prawn ii. 246
Prince’s ii. 490
Princess ii. 490
Puchero ii. 490
Pumpkin ii. 272
Queen ii. 490
Quenelle **.281
Rabbit ii. 297
Racines **.491
Red ii. 49 )
Red Haricot Bean Puree *'. 93
Rice ii. 336
Rice and -Cabbage ii. 328
Rice-and Onion **.333
Rice and Pea ii. 334
Rice and Sorrel ii. 336
Rice and Tomato **'.338
Rice Cream ii. 329
Rich Man’s **.491
Rich White **.491
Roe ii. 343
Russian **.491
Russian Julienne ii. 491
Sago ii. 355
Sago and Beer **.353
Salad **.371
Sanitary ii. 491
Soups, Savoyard ii. 491
Scotch *'. 999
Sea ii. 492
Semolina ii. 417
Sevigny ii. 492
Sheep’s-Head ii. 440
Sheep’s-Kidney ii. 443
Shin -of -Beef *'. 126
Shrimp ii. 450
Skate ii. 454
Skink or Hoch ii. 492
Soft Clam *.396
Solferino ii. 492
Sorrel ii. 475
Soubise ii. 492
Sour Cream *'. 475
Spinach ii. 502
Spring ii. 493
Strawberry ii. 523
Sturgeon ii. 530
Summer ii. 493
Supper ii. 493
Sweetbread ii. 552
Tapioca ii. 570
Tapioca Cream ii. 568
Terrapin ii. 585
Thrush Puree ii. 588
Tomato ii. 606
Tomato -and -Pumpkin ii. 604
Tomato Cream **.601
Tripe **.617
Turbot, with Celery ii. 644
Turkey ii. 657
Turkey Giblet ii. 659
Turnip ii. 662
Turnip-and Rice ii. 662
Turtle ii. 667
Turtle, Preserved Green ii. 666
Uka *'*'.493
Veal ii. 722
Veal Gravy *’*’. 715
Veal Mullagatawny ii. 7 17
Vegetable ii. 729
Vegetable marrow ii. 734
Vegetable Puree ii. 729
Venison ii. 742
Vermicelli *'*'.744
Victoria ii. 493
Vocalist’s ii. 493
Westmoreland *'*.494
Wheat ii. 765
Whelk ii. 766
White ii. 494
Whitebait *'*'. 768
Windsor *‘*'.494
Wine ii. 790
with Gnocchi ii. 492
with Meat ii. 492
with Noques ii. 493
without Water ii. 492
Yam ii. 800
Young Carrots *'. 306
Sour Braten ii. 494
Sour Cream Dumplings *'. 475
Snowballs *'.475
Soup *'. 475
Sour- Crout *'*'.494
Apples, with ii. 495
Boiled ii. 494
Cabbage *'. 222
Goose, with ii. 495
Oysters, with ii. 495
Pate ii. 495
Sausages and Bacon, with *’*.495
Tinned Meat, with *'*’.495
Sour Drops ii. 537
Sour Milk Biscuits *'. 942
Brown Bread *. 942
Soursop ii. 495
880
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Souse ii. 495
Soused Mackerel i. 903
Salmon ii. 371
Souterage ii. 496
Sowans ii. 496
Soy ii. 496
Spaghetti ii. 496
Spanish Beef steak i. 105
Beverage i. 134
Bitters i. 150
Blancmange i. 157
Buns i. 211
Butter i. 218
Cakes i. 258
Macaroons i. 896
Spanish-nuts ii. 496
Bonbons ii. 496
Cream Ice ii. 497
Pralines ii. 497
Spanish Omelet ii. 22
Onions ii. 24, 28
Salad ii. 359
Sauce ii. 397, 497
Wines ii. 497
Spare- Ribs ii. 497
Sparrow Dumpling ii. 497
Pie ii. 497
Sparrows ii. 497
in Potatoes ii. 497
Spatchcock or Spitchcock ii. 498
Spatula ii. 498
Special Cakes i. 258
Spice ii. 498
Mace i. 897
Mixed ii. 499
Sweet ii. 499
Spiced Apples i. 39
Beef i. 126
Beef Cheese i. 127
Loaf ii. 499
Macaroons i. 896
Round of Beef, or Hunter’s Beef
i. 127
Wine ii. 68
Spider Cake i. 258
Toast i. 258
with Bilberries i. 258
Spigola ii. 499
Spinach ii. 500
a la Franpaise ii. 500
a la Mode ii. 501
Bacon and i. 64
Boiled, with Sardines ii. 500
Consonant! ii. 501
Cream ii. 501
Croquettes ii. 501
Croustades ii. 501
Custard ii. 501
Eggs, with ii. 501
Fritters ii. 501
German style, in ii. 501
Green for Colouring ii. 501
Minced ii. 500
Omelet ii. 502
Ravioli ii. 502
Salad ii. 502
Soup ii. 502
Stewed, with Anchovy Sauce ii. 503
Sweet ii. 503
Tart ii. 503
Toasts ii. 503
Spirits i. 7, ii. 503
Spits ii. 503
Spleen ii. 504
Split -Peas ii. 129
Sponge Biscuits i. 147
Biscuits, Almond i. 14
Caramels i. 291
Custard i. 510
Sponge Ice i. 775
Lemon i. 852
Orange ii. 44
Peach ii. 138
Pine apple ii. 196
Puddings ii. 268
Sponge Cake ii. 504
a la Chantilly i. 260
Almond i. 14
Berwick i. 259
Butter i. 259
Cream Ice i. 260
Fritters i. 260
Pudding ii. 504
Ring with Cream i. 260
Shape ii. 505
SouiHd ii. 505
Swiss Roll i. 260
Trifle ii. 505
with Rum i. 260
Sponge Cakes i. 258
Apple Snow with i. 34
Cocoa-nut i. 411
Cornflour i. 444
Spongeade, Peach ii. 138
Spoons ii. 506
Sportsman Salad ii. 359
Spot ii. 506
Sprat Patties ii. 507
Pie ii. 507
Rissoles ii. 507
Toasts ii. 508
Sprats ii. 506
Baked ii. 507
Broiled ii. 507
Fried ii. 507
Imitation of Anchovies, in ii. 507
Pickled ii. 507
Potted ii. 507
Salted ii. 507
Smoked ii. 507
Soused ii. 507
Stewed ii. 508
Spring Soup ii. 493
Sprouts ii. 508
Brussels i. 206
Spruce ii. 508
Beer ii. 508
White ii. 508
Spruce and Eggs i. 54
Squab Pie i. 999, ii. 167, 509
Devonshire i. 978
Squabs ii. 508
a la Chipolata ii. 509
a la Crapaudine ii. 509
a l’Americaine ii. 509
Ballotines ii. 509
Broiled ii. 508
Compote ii. 508
Roasted ii. 508
Squash ii. 509
Baked ii. 509
Boiled ii. 509
Mashed ii. 510
Pie if. 510
Pudding ii. 510
Stewed ii. 510
Squashes ii. 509
Squirrels ii. 510
Barbecued ii. 510
Broiled ii. 510
Pie ii. 510
Stewed ii. 510
St. Amand Cake i. 251
St. Honore Cake i. 252
St. John’s Pudding ii. 267
St. Menehould Sauce ii. 395
Stag Horn Cakes i. 260
Starch ii. 511
Stclii ii. 511
Steak ii. 511
Broiled i. 112
Fried i. 117
Fried Hamburg, served'with Russian
Sauce i. 117
Hamburg i. 118
Porterhouse ii. 226
Tongs ii. 511
Steamed Bacon i. 65
Steaming ii. 511
Steinwein ii. 511
Stelvio ii. 511
Sterlets ii. 530
a lTmperiale ii. 530
Braised, stuffed ii. 530
Pie ii. 53 1
Roasted ii. 530
Russian Style, in ii. 531
Stewed ii. 531
Stewed in Chablis Wine ii. 531
Stew, Barley i. 80
Irish i. 779
Red Mutton i. 995
Stewed Apples i. 39
Apples and Rice i. 39
Artichokes i. 49
Asparagus Points i. 54
Barbel i. 75
Beef i. 127
Beefsteaks i. 128
Brisket of Beef i. 128
Cabbage, stuffed with Forcemeat
i. 223
Dried Apples i. 39
Fillet of Beef and Olives i. 128
Fillet of Reef with Ojsters i. 128
Haricot Beans i. 93
Larded Fillet of Beef i. 128
Red Haricot Beans i. 93
Rice and Fruit ii. 337
Scraps or Trimmings of Raw Beef
i. 128
Silverside of Beef i. 128
Slices of Cold Beef with Green Peas
i. 129
Stuffed Bass with Mushroom Sauce
i. 84
Stewing ii. 511
Stewpans ii. 512
Sticks, Bread i. 190
Stillroom ii. 512
Stilton Cheese i. 346
Stock ii. 512
Cabbages i. 225
Cheap ii. 512
Clear, a la Franfaise ii. 512
Crayfish i. 460
Dark ii. 513
First ii. 513
First Broth, or i. 205
Game i. 666
General ii. 513
Jelly i. 785
Medium ii. 513
Mixed ii. 513
Rabbit ii. 297
Second ii. 513
Turtle Soup ii. 669
Veal, or Blond de Veau ii. 722
Vegetable Soup, for ii. 513
White ii. 513
Stockfish ii. 514
Stone Cream i. 475
Stones, Lamb's i. 822
Stoppers ii. 514
Store Room ii. 514
Stout ii. 514
Mulled ii. 514
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
881
Stoves and Ranges ii. 514
Stracchino Cheese 7. 346
Stradella 77. 515
Strawberry Acid, Royal ii. 518
Bavaroise ii. 518
Blanc mange ii. 518
Boucliees ii. 518
Cake 7. 260
Cardinal i. 204
Charlottes ii. 518
Chartreuse ii. 518
Cheese ii. 518
Compote ii. 517
Conserve ii. 519
Cordial ii. 519
Cream ii. 519
Cream Ice ii. 519
Crusts ii. 520
Drops ii. 520
Flawn ii. 520
Fool ii. 520
Fritters ii. 520
Jam ii. 520
Jelly ii. 520
Julep ii. 521
Liqueur ii. 521
Marzipan ii. 521
Meringue ii. 521
Mousse ii. 521
Pudding ii. 52 1
Pulp, for Ices ii. 522
Pulp, Preserved ii. 517
Punch ii. 522
Raspberry and, Jam ii. 522
Salad ii. 522
Sherbet ii. 522
Sponge ii. 524
Shortbread ii. 522
Shortcake ii. 522
Shrub ii. 523
Souffle ii. 523
Soup ii. 523
Syrup ii. 524
Tablets ii. 524
Tart ii. 524
Trifle ii. 524
Water Ice ii. 525
Whipped Cream, and Raspberry
ii. 522
Strawberries ii. 515
Bottled ii. 5 16
F rozen, and Whipped Cream ii. 5 17
Iced ii. 517
Jelly, in ii. 521
Preserved ii. 5 1 7
Tinned ii. 525
Strewed Cake i. 260
Striped Bass or Rock Fish i. 83
“ Strohl ” Cheese i. 352
Strudels ii. 525
Stuffed Anchovies i. 21
Artichoke Bottoms i. 50
Bass, Stewed, with Mushroom
Sauce i. 84
Cakes i. 26 1
Stuffing ii. 526
Anchovy i. 21
Birds, for ii. 526
Ducks, for ii. 526
Fish, for ii. 526
Fowls, for ii. 526
Goose, for ii. 526
Hare, for ii. 526
Meat 7. 921
Potato ii. 240
Poultry Galantines, for ii. 526
Rabbits, for ii. 526
Sage-and-Onion ii. 353
Sucking-pig, for ii. 526
VOL. II.
Stuffing, Truffle aml-Chestnut ii. 628
Turkey, for ii. 526
Turkish, for Poultry ii. 527
Veal, for ii. 527
Stump Pie i. 1,004
Sturgeon ii. o'21
a la Cardinal ii. 529
a la Gouttd ii. 529
a la Hollandaise ii. 529
a la Provenfale ii. 529
a la Roi ii. 529
a la Romaine ii. 529
a la Russe ii. 529
a la Ude ii. 530
a l’lndienne ii. 529
au Gratin it. 529
Baked ii. 527
Blanquette of, with Green Peas
ii. 527
Braised ii. 527
Broiled ii. 527
Croquettes ii. 528
Fricandeau ii. 528
F ricassee ii. 528
I' l ied ii. 528
Mayonnaise ii. 528
Patty ii. 530
Quenelles ii. 528
Roasted ii. 528
Rocolnic Soup ii. 530
Sauce for ii. 396
Soup with Curry ii. 530
Stewed ii. 528
Suburek ii. 531
Succotash ii. 531
Sucking-pig ii. 175
Baked ii. 175
Galantine of ii. 176
Roasted ii. 176
Sauce for ii. 396
Stuffing for ii. 526
Timbale of ii. 176
To Carve i. 315
Suedoise ii. 532
Apples i. 39
Apricots 7. 45
Fruits with Jelly i. 658
Salad ii. 359
Suet ii. 532
Crust ii. 532
Dumplings ii. 532
Milk for Invalids ii. 533
Pudding, Baked ii. 532
Pudding, Boiled ii. 532
Pudding, F lied ii. 532
Sugar, Apple i. 35
Barley i. 80
Biscuits i. 147
Boiling ii. 533
Candy ii. 543
Coffee flavoured i. 425
Coloured ii. 533
Drawing ii. 539
Favours ii. 537
Flavoured ii. 533
Icing i. 776
Lemon i. 853
Moulding ii. 537
Peas ii. 128
Piping ii. 537
Plums ii. 537
Ribbon ii. 537
Spinning ii. 537
Tablets ii. 537
Vanilla ii. 680
Working ii. 533
Sugared Almonds i. 15
Flowers ii. 537
Sugar-Iced Apples i. 39
Sully Cakes i. 26 1
Sulphuric Acid ii. 543
Sultana Cake i. 261, ii. 304
Sultanas ii. 302
Sultanes ii. 543
Summer Drinks 7. 134
Salad ii. 359
Soup ii. 493
Sunshine Cake 7.261
Suppers ii. 544
Ball, and Refreshments i. 68
Soup ii. 493
Supreme Sauce ii. 397
Surn ii. 544
Surprise Apples i. 39
Cygnet Cake i. 261
Peacock Cake 7. 261
Pheasant Cake a la Soyer 7. 261
Sussex Brawn 7. 178
Swan’s Nest Cakes 7. 261
Swartzain 77. 544
Swedish Rolls 7. 186
Salad 77. 360
Sweet Basil 7. 81
Batter for Frying 7. 87
Biscuits 7. 147
Buns without Eggs 7. 2 12
Herbs 7. 759
Herbs, Fagot of 7. 576
Potato Bread 7. 1 83
Sauce 77. 400
Sop 77. 553
Spanish Potatoes, or 77. 242
Sweetbread 77. 544
Aiguillettes 7. 5
Attereaux 77. 544
Balls 77. 549
Blanquette 77. 545
Boucliees 77. 545
Chartreuse 77. 546
Cromeskies 77. 550
Croquettes 77. 550
Cutlets 77. 550
Fricandeau 77. 546
Fricassee 77. 550
Mushroom and, Patties 77. 550
Pie 77. 55 1
Ragout 77.547, 551
Rissoles 77. 547
Salad 77.551
Soup 77. 552
Tart 77. 552
Timbale 77. 552
Vol-au-Vent 77. 552
Sweetbreads 77. 544
a l’Anglaise 77. 549
a la Financiere 77. 549
ii la Parisienne 77. 549
a la Piedmontese 77. 549
a la Toulouse 77. 549
Attelettes of, ft ITtalienne 77. 544
Baked 77. 545
Black Butter, with 77. 549
Braised 77. 545
Broiled 77. 545
Brown Sauce, in 77. 549
Cases, in 77. 550
Casserole of Mock 77. 545
Collops of, with Green Peas 77. 546
Creamed 77. 546
Curried 77. 546
en Coquilles 77. 549
Fried 77. 546
Lamb’s 7. 822
Larded 77. 546
Macaroni with 7. 891
Mock 77. 547
Mushroom Sauce, and 77.551
Mushrooms, with 77. 550
3 L
882
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Sweetbreads, Roasted 77. 547
Saute 77.551
Scalloped, a la Richelieu 77. 548
Scrambled 77. 548
Sorrel, with 77.551
Stewed 77. 548
White Sauce, in 77. 552
Sweetmeats, Cinnamon 7.392
Cocoanut 7.411
Honey 7. 770
Lemon 7. 853
Peach 77. 1 38
Swiss Macaroons 7. 896
Roll 77. 553
Roll, Sponge Cake 7. 260
Sauce 77. 401
Sausages 77. 406
Wines 77. 553
Sword Fish 77. 553
Syllabub 77. 553
Lemon 77. 554
London 77. 554
Old English 77. 554
Solid 77. 554
Somerset 77. 554
Staffordshire 77. 554
Whip 77. 554
Syphons 77. 554
Syra 77. 554
Syracuse Wine 77. 554
Syrup 77. 554
Ambrosia 7. 16
Apple 7. 35
Banana 7. 7 1
Barberry 7. 77
Capsicum 7. 287
Caramel 7. 29 1
Catawba 7.318
Champagne 7. 333
Cherry 7. 362
Cherry -and -Currant 7. 357
Cherry Soda-Water 7. 361
Chocolate 7. 380
Cinnamon 7. 392
Coffee Cream 7. 424
Compotes, for 77. 555
Cowslip 7. 448
Cream 7. 470
Currant 7. 50 1
Elderberry 7. 57 1
Excelsior 77. 555
Fancy 77. 555
Ginger 7. 682
Golden 77. 555
Gum 7. 728, 77. 555
Ices, for 77. 555
Indian 77.555
Lemon 7. 853
Lemonade, for 77. 555
Maple 77. 555
Marsh- Mai 1 ow 7. 9 1 4
Mead 7.917
Mulberry 7. 953
Nectar 77. 2
Orange 77. 44
Orange and -Lemon 77. 39
Orgeat 77. 50
Peacli 77. 138
Pineapple 77. 196
Pokeberry 77.213
Pomegranate 77.214
Preserving Fruits, for 77. 555
Red and White Currant and
Raspberry 7. 502
Red Currant 7. 500
Simple, for Cordials or Liqueurs
77. 555
Stock or Store 77. 555
Strawberry 77. 524
Syrup, Tamarind 77. 565
Thin Stock, or Drinking 77. 555
Vanilla 77. 680
Vanilla Cream 77.678
Wild Cherry 7. 364
T
Table Customs 77. 556
Decorations 77. 558
D’Hote 77. 560
Linen 77. 560
Service 77.561
Tables 77. 555
Tablets 77. 564
Almond 7. 14
Tafia 77. 564
Tagliarini 77. 564
Tailli -Kataif 77.564
Tails 77.564
Lamb’s 7. 824
Ox 77. 63
Pig’s 77. 175
Sheep’s 77. 444
Talmouses with Cheese 7. 352
Tamara 77. 565
Tamarind Chutney 77. 565
Cup 77. 565
Drink 77. 565
Fish 77. 565
Syrup 77. 565
Water 77.565
Tamarinds 77 . 565
Preserved 77. 565
Tammy 77. 565
Tankards 77. 565
Tansy 77. 566
Essence of 77. 566
Julep 77. 566
Pudding 77. 566
Tao-foo Cheese 7.316
Tapioca 77. 567
Apple 7. 35
Broth 77. 567
Cream 77. 567
Cream Soup 77. 568
Custard 77. 568
Drink 77. 568
Gratine 77. 568
Jelly 77. 568
Milk, in 77.569
Pudding, Apple and 7.35, 77.567
Puddings 77. 569
Rock 77. 570
Snow 77. 570
Souffle 77. 570
Soup 77. 570
Tomatoes and 77. 570
Taps and Tapping 77. 567
Tar 77. 570
Beer made with 7. 130
Taro 77. 57 1
Tarragon 77. 57 1
Butter 77. 57 1
Sauce 77. 57 1
Vinegar 77.571
Tart 77. 57 1
Anchovy 7.21
Apple 7. 35
Apple-and Quince 7. 34
Apple Open 7. 31
Apricot Open 7. 42
Barberry 7. 77
Blackberry 7. 152
Cherry 7. 362
Tart, Cherry Open 7. 360
Chocolate 7. 380
Chocolate-cream 7. 377
Cocoa-nut 7.411
Cranberry 7. 456
Cream 7. 470
Custard and Apple 7. 35
Damson 7.514
French 77.572
Fruit 7. 657
German Iced 77. 572
Gooseberry 7. 706
Gooseberry-and-Cream 7. 703
Greengage 7. 7 17
Lemon 7. 853
Marlborough 77. 572
Portuguese 77.572
Royal Berlin 77. 572
Sand 77. 572
Strawberry 77. 524
Tartar Sauce 77. 398
Tartaric Acid 77. 57 1
Tartary Cakes 7. 262
Tartines 77. 574
Anchovy 7.21
Munster 77.574
Tartlets 77. 57 1
Almond 7. 14
Apple 7. 36
Apricot 7. 43
Bilberry 7. 135
Blackberry 7. 152
Cheese 7. 35 1
Chelsea 77. 573
Cherry 7. 362
Fancy 77. 573
Genoa 77. 573
Indian 77.573
Lemon 7. 853
Paganini 77. 573
Piedmontese 77. 573
Roman 77.573
Three-Cornered 77. 573
Taste 77. 574
Tawntatalet 77. 575
Taylor Cakes 7. 262
Tea 77. 575
Amazon 7. 15
Bencoolen 7. 132
Biscuits 7. 147
Bran 7. 175
Brick 7. 194
Brioche 7. 199
Broiled 77. 580
Broussa 7. 206
Bush 7.213
Cakes 77.57 8
Caramel Tablets 77. 577
Cream 77. 578
Cream Ice 77.578
Cream Jelly 77. 578
Cup 77. 57 8
Dandelion 7. 5 15
Dutch style, in 77. 578
Essence of 77. 577
Herb 7.760
Hop 7. 770
Horehound 7.771
Iced 77.577
Jelly 77.578
Jesuits’ 7. 788
Labrador 7. 804
Lemon 7. 853
Linseed 7. 862
Meat 7. 921
Milk Punch 77. 578
Mutton 7. 994
New Jersey 77.5
Paraguay 77. 89
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
883
Tea, Potato 77. 240
Rolls, or Breakfast 7. 186
Russian style, in ii. 578
Souffle ii. 578
Tea-kettle Broth i. 205
Teal ii. 580
a la Gourmet ii. 58 1
Devilled ii. 580
Fillets of ii. 580
Roasted ii. 580
Salmis of, a la Regence ii. 580
Tea-pots ii. 579
Tedj ii. 581
Tenareze 77.581
Tench 77.581
Aspic of 77.581
au Gratin 77. 583
Boiled ii. 581
Broiled 77.581
Curried 77. 582
Fillets 77. 582
Fried ii. 582
Pie 77. 583
Roasted 77. 582
Stewed 77. 582
Tendons ii. 583
Terrapin ii. 583
Baked 77. 583
Boiled ii. 584
Fricassee 77.584
Salad 77. 584
Soup 77. 585
Sou]>, Mock 77.584
Steaks 77. 585
Stewed 77. 584
Yol-au-Vent 77.585
Terrines or Terrenes 77. 585
Teste 77. 585
Tlieine 77. 585
Thermometers 77. 585
Thick Biscuits 7. 147
Thickened Butter 7.217
Milk 7. 942
Thrushes 77 . 5 86
a la Paysanne 77. 587
au Gratin 77. 587
Cooked in Brandy 77. 588
Chaudfroid of 77. 586
Crcpinettes of 77. 587
in Cases, served with Truffles
77. 587
Puree of, with Rice 77. 587
Puree Soup 77. 588
Roasted 77. 58-7
Salmis of 77. 587
Stewed 77. 587
Timbale of, with Truffled Macaroni
77. 588
Thumb-Bits 77. 588
Fish 77. 588
Game 77. 588
Meat 77. 588
Mock-Crab 77. 589
Mock Game 77. 589
Oyster 77. 589
Poultry 77. 589
Tomato-and-Sardine 77. 589
Thyme 77. 589
Tid- Bits 77.589
Tierce 77. 589
Tiger’s Milk 77. 589
Timbales 77. 590
Amourettes 7. 18
Apple 7. 36
Brioche, with Fruit 7. 199
Cabbage 7. 224
Cornflour 7. 444
Fruits, of 7. 659
Macaroni 7. 89 1
I
Timbales, Savoury 77. 590
Sweet 77. 590
Tinctures 77. 590
Capsicum 7. 288
Caraway 7. 293
Cardamom 7. 294
Cinnamon 7. 392
Clove 7. 40 1
Coriander 7. 438
Ginger 7. 684
Lemon 7. 856
Tinned Aspargus, to warm and serve
7. 54
Green Peas 77. 129
Lobster 7. 882
Meat 7. 926
Mutton 7. 1004
Pineapple 77. 197
Salmon 77. 372
Tomatoes 77. 607
Tinta 77.591
Tipparee 77.591
Cheese or Marmalade 77. 591
Jelly 77.591
Preserve 77. 59 1
Tipsy Cake 7. 262, 77. 591
Pudding 77. 269
Trifle 77.615
Tisanes 77. 59 1
Tis Wein 77.591
Tit-Bits 77. 589
Toad in the Hole 77. 591
Toast Anchovy 7. 21
and Water 7. 192
Apricot 7. 43
Cream 7.470
French 7. 192
Genoa 7. 192
German 7. 192
Lemon 7. 853
Maraschino 7.910
Pudding 77. 269
Roe 77. 343
Salmon 77.371
Savoury 7. 192
Spider-Cake 7. 258
Toasted Bloaters 7. 158
Bread Drink 7. 192
Toast Masters 77. 592
Toasts 77. 592
Toast-Rack 77.592
Toddy 77. 592
Apple 7. 36
Toffy 77. 5S2
Cream 7. 47 1
Everton 77. 592
Indian 77.593
Marsh Mallow 7.914
Molasses 7. 948
Sponge 77.593
White 77. 593
Togus Bread 7. 183
Tokay 77. 593
Tolu Lozenges 7. 884
Tomato
Artichoke, and Salad 7. 49
Chutney 77. 600
Conserve 77. 600
Figs 77. 60 1
Green, Chutney 77. 595
Green, Jam 77.595
Green, Sauce 77. 596
Jam 77.601
Jelly 77. 602
Juice, Bottled 77. 594
Juice, Preserved 77. 597
Ketchup 77. 602
Marmalade 77. 603
Omelet 77. 603 „
Tomato Paste 77. 603
Piccalilli 77. 604
Pickle 77. 604
Pie 77. 604
Pie, Onion and 77. 603
Pilau 77. 604
Preserve 77. 604
Pudding, Cornflour and 77.601
Pudding, Meat and 77. 603
Puree 77. 604
Salad 77. 605
Salad, Artichoke and 77. 600
Salad, Cucumber and 77.601
Sandwiches 77. 605
Sauce 77. 605
Soup 77. 606
Soup, Cream 77. 60 1
Soup, Pumpkin and 77. 604
Toast 77. 607
Vinegar 77. 607
Tomatoes 77. 593
a la Bock 77. 599
a la Marseillaise 77. 600
a l’Andalouse 77. 599
au Gratin 77. 599
Baked 77. 594
Broiled 77. 594
Candied 77. 595
Cauliflower and 77. 600
Devilled 77. 595
Dressed 77. 595
Eggs and 77. 601
Fried 77.595
Garnishing, for 77. 601
Green, Pickle 77. 595
Green, with Cream 77. 595
Indian Corn and 77. 601
Macaroni with 77.602
Mashed 77. 596
Mayonnaise, with 77. 603
Pickled 77. 596
Preserved 77. 597
Rice, with 77. 604
Sago, with 77. 605
Savoury 77. 597
Scalloped 77. 598
Spaghetti, with 77. 607
Spiced 77. 598
Steamed 77. 598
Stewed 77. 598
Stuffed 77.598
Tapioca and 77. 570
Tinned 77. 607
Tom Thumb Rib of Pickled Beef,
Boiled 7. 108
Tongs 77. 609
Tongue 77. 600
Boiled 77.610
Calf’s 7. 279
Cod’s 7.419
Jellied 77. 610
Lamb’s 7. 824
Ox 77. 64
Pickled 77.610
Pig’s 77. 175
Potted 77.610
Reindeer 77.317
Salad 77.610
Sandwich 77. 610
Sheep’s 77. 444
Stewed 77. 610
Toast 77. 610
To Carve 7.315
Tonic, Orange 77. 45
Toothpicks
Tops and Bottoms 77. 610
Tortoise Broth 77.610
Tortoni Biscuits 7. 147
Tough Beef made Tender 7. 129
3 L 2
884
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Tough Beef steaks Cooked Tender in
Gravy i. 129
Meat ii. 611
Toulouse Sauce ii. 398
Tournedos ii. 611
of Beef i. 129
Tourte ii. 611
Tous-les-Mois ii. 611
Transparent Sauce ii. 398
Traveller’s Pudding ii. 269
Travelling Cakes i. 262
Trays ii. 611
Treacle ii. 612
Beer ii. 612
Cake ii. 6 12
Parkin ii. 612
l’ie ii. 612
Posset ii. 612
Pudding ii. 612
Pudding, and Plum ii. 612
Tart ii. 613
Tartlets ii. 613
Trepany ii. 613
Trifle 'ii. 613
Apple i. 36
Cold Savoury ii. 614
Cream i. 47 1
Fruit i. 657
Gooseberry i. 706
Grape i. 710
Lemon i. 854
Macaroon i. 896
Moulded Swiss ii. 614
Old-fashioned ii. 614
Orange ii. 45
Orange Cream ii. 37
Peach ii. 139
Queen of ii. 614
Raspberry ii. 312
Ratafia ii. 315
Savoury ii. 614
Sponge-Cake ii. 506
Strawberry ii. 524
Tipsy ii. 615
Tripe ii. 615
a la Bordelaise ii. 616
a la Caennaise ii. 616
a la Creole ii. 616
a la Dubois ii. 617
a la Lyonnaise ii. 617
ii la Mode ii. 617
a la Poulette ii. 617
a la Toulouse ii. 617
Baked, with Potatoes ii. 615
Boiled ii. 615
Breaded ii. 615
Broiled ii. 615
Curried ii. 615
Fricassee of ii. 615
Fried ii. 616
Onions, and ii. 617
Roasted ii. 616
Rolled Stuffed ii. 616
Salad ii. 617
Soup ii. 617
Stewed ii. 616
Tripletail ii. 618
Triturate ii. 618
Trivet ii. 618
Trois-Six ii. 618
Troughs ii. 618
Trout ii. 618
a la Beyrout ii. 622
a la Cambaceres ii. 622
a la Chambord ii. 622
a la Chasseur ii. 623
a la Genevese ii. 623
a la Venisienne ii. 624
a l’Espagnoie ii. 623
Trout, a l’Hussavde ii. 623
a l’Orly ii. 623
Aspic of ii. 618
au Gratin ii. 623
au Mayonnaise ii. 623
au Remoulade ii. 624
Baked ii. 618
Boiled ii. 619
Broiled ii. 619
Collared ii. 620
Croquettes of ii. 620
en Papillotes ii. 623
Fillets of ii. 620
Fish Jelly, in 624
Fried ii. 620
Matelote of, and Eels ii. 621
Pickled ii. 621
Pie ii. 624
Potted ii. 621
Salad ii. 624
Soused it . 622
Stewed ii. 622
Trul m U. 624
True-lover’s Knots i. 147
Truffle, Chestnut and, Stuffing ii. 628
Cromeskies ii. 628
Forcemeat ii. 628
Ice ii. 628
Omelet ii. 629
Pudding ii. 629
Salad ii. 629
Salad, and Celery ii. 627
Salad, and Potato ii. 629
Sauce ii. 629
Stuffing for Turkey ii. 629
Tart ii. 630
Truffles ii. 624
a la Serviette ii. 627
a l’ltalienne ii. 627
au Gratin ii. 627
Baked ii. 625
Boiled ii. 625
Broiled ii. 625
Cooked in Champagne ii. 627
Cooked in Wine ii. 630
Croustades, in ii. 628
Dressed ii. 625
Eggs, with ii. 628
Essence of ii. 625
Garnish, for ii. 628
Gratinated ii. 625
in Cases ii. 627
Montglas, with ii. 629
on Toast ii. 630
Preserved ii. 626
Puree of ii. 626
Served en Buisson ii. 627
Stewed ii. 626
Stuffed ii. 626
Timbale of ii. 626
Trussing ii. 630
Animals ii. 634
Birds ii. 634
Fish ii. 633
Tuba ii. 636
Tuckahoo ii. 636
Tuginar i. 1,004, ii. 636
Tumblers ii. 636
Tun ii. 636
Tunbridge Cakes i. 262
Tunny ii. 636
Braised, with Green Peas ii. 636
Broiled, Steak ii. 636
Broiled, with Puree of Sorrel
ii. 636
Dressed Pickled ii. 636
Fried ii. 636
Omelet ii. 637
Turban ii. 637
Turbot ii. 637
a la Chef de Cuisine ii. 640
a la Creme ii. 641
a la Espagnole ii. 641
a la Gourmet ii. 641
a la Laguipierre ii. 641
a la Maitre d 'Hotel ii. 642
a l'Anglaise ii. 640
a la N ormande ii. 642
a la Poulette ii. 642
a la Provencale ii. 642
Aspic ii. 637
au Beurre Noir ii. 640
au Gratin ii. 641
Baked ii. 638
Baked Fillets ii. 637
Baked, Stuffed ii. 637
Boiled ii. 638
Broiled ii. 639
Cassolettes ii. 642
Croquettes ii. 642
Croustades ii. 639
Curried ii. 639
Fillets of, with Cream Sauce ii. 639
Fried ii. 639
Hashed ii. 640
in Shells ii. 644
Kedgeree ii. 640
Mayonnaise ii. 640
Omelet ii. 643
Pie ii. 643
Rechauffe ii. 643
Rolls ii. 644
Salad ii. 644
Sautd ii. 644
Scalloped ii. 640
Soup with Celery ii. 644
Tureen ii. 644
Turin Cakes i. 262
Rolls i. 186
Turkey ii. 644
a la Bourgeoise ii. 655
a la Daube ii. 655
a la Toulouse ii. 655
Aspic of ii. 645
Baked ii. 646
Baked Boned ii. 645
Ballottines ii. 655
Blanquette ii. 646
Boiled ii. 646
Boiled Boned, a la Royale ii. 646
Boned, a l’Americaine ii. 648
Boned, in Aspic Jelly ii. 648
Boudins ii. 656
Braised ii. 648
Braised Larded ii. 648
Breasts ii. 656
Brochettes ii. 656
Broiled, Legs ii. 649
Canapes ii. 649
Chaudfroid ii. 649
Cromeskies, and Tongue ii. 658
Croquettes ii. 656
Custard ii. 656
Devilled Legs ii. 649
Fillets ii. 650
Fricandeau ii. 656
F ricassee ii. 656
Galantine ii. 650
Galantine®!, with Aspic Jelly ii. 651
Giblets ii. 658
Giblet Soup ii. 659
Hashed ii. 651
Legs of, a l’ltalienne ii. 651
Liver Cheese ii. 659
Mayonnaise of, with Aspic Jelly
ii. 65 1
Minced, with Poached Eggs ii. 652
Patties ii. 656
TEE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
885
Turkey Paupiettes 77. C52
Pie ii. 656
Pinions ii. 656
Potted ii. 652
Pulled ii. 652
Rechauffe with White Sauce ii. 657
Roasted ii. 652
Roasted, Garnished ii. 653
Roasted, Poult ii. 653
Roasted, Stuffed ii. 653
Sandwich ii. 657
Sausage ii. 657
Scalloped ii. 654
Soup ii. 657
Steamed ii. 654
Stewed, various ways ii. 654
Turkish Biscuits i. 147
Broth i. 205
Cakes i. 262
Wines ii. 659
Turk’s Cake i. 263
Turmeric ii. 659
Turning ii. 659
Turnip Bread i. 183
Brown, Garnish ii. 660
Porridge ii. 662
Pudding ii. 662
Puree ii. 662
Salad ii. 662
Sauce ii. 662
Soup ii. 662
Soup, and Rice ii. 662
Turnips ii. 660
a la Creme ii. 661
a la Maitre d 'Hotel ii. 661
a la Poulette ii. 661
au Gratin ii. 661
Batter, in ii. 661
Boiled ii. 660
Cream, with ii. 661
Fried, with Curd ii. 660
Garnish for 77.661
Glares 77. 662
Glazed with Gravy 77. 660
Mashed ii. 660
Pickled 77. 660
Stewed 77. 660
Stuffed 77. 661
White Sauce, in 77. 663
Turnip-tops 77. 663
Boiled 77. 663
Poached Eggs and 77. 663
Puree ii. 663
Salad 77. 663
Turnovers 77. 663
Apple 7. 36
Lemon 7. 854
Turnspits 77. 663
Turtle 77. 663
Braised 77. 665
Fins 77. 666
Fricandeau 77. 665
Fricassee 77. 666
Fried 77. 666
Mignons 77. 666
Mock 77. 67 0
Patties 77. 666
Pie 77. 667
Quenelles 77. 667
Stewed 77. 666
Turtle-Soup 77.667
a l’Americaine 77. 668
Egg Balls for 77. 665
Forcemeat Balls for 77. 665
from Dried Turtle 77. 669
Preserved Green 77. 666
Stock 77. 669
Tutti-Frutti 77.672
Icing 77. 673
Tutti-Frutti Jelly 77. 673
Preserve 77. 673
Twelfth Cakes 77. 673
Twine 77. 674
Twists 7. 186
Twopenny 77.674
Tyre or Dhye 7. 939
u
Udder 77.674
Ragout 77. 674
Uka Soup 77. 493
Universal Sauce 77. 402
Unleavened Biscuits 7. 147
Bread 77. 67 4
Urns 77.67 4
Usquebaugh 77. 675
V
Vacherin 77. 675
a la Chantilly 77. 675
Valgiano 77. 675
Valois Sauce 77. 398
Vanilla 77. 675
Barley Sugar 7. 81, 77. 676
Biscuits 77. 67 6
Cake 77. 67 6
Candy T ablets 77. 67 6
Caramels 77. 677
Cheese 77. 677
Cream 77. 677
Cream, and Chocolate 77. 677
Cream, and Currant 77. 678
Cream Fritters 77. 677
Cream Ice 77. 67 7
Cream Liqueur 77. 678
Cream Sauce 77. 678
Cream Syrup 77. 678
Cup Custard 77. 678
Custard 77.678
Drops 77 . 67 8
Eclairs 77. 67 8
Essence 77. 67 6
Extract 77. 676
Flavouring 77.676
Fritters 77.678
Ice, and Strawberry 77. 680
Jelly 77. 679
Liqueur 77. 679
Lozenges 77. 679
Pudding 77. 679
Sauce 77. 679
Souffle 77. 679
Souffle, and Chocolate 77. 677
Souffle Pudding 77. 680
Sticks 77. 680
Sugar 77. 680
Syrup 77. 680
Tartlets 77. 680
Water Ice 77.681
Whipped Cream 77.681
Vases 77. 681
Vatrovskies 77.681
Vats 77.681
Veal 77.681
a la Barbaric 77. 707
a la Casserole 77. 707
a la Polonaise 77. 707
a l’ltalienne 77. 707
Aspic of 77. 682
Veal, Attereaux of, and Ham 77. 682
Baked, Chops 77. 682
Baked, Cutlets 77. 683
Baked Leg 77. 682
Baked Loin 77. 682
Birds or Mock Pigeons 77. 707
Blanquettes of, Various 77. 683
Boudins 77. 684
Breast 77. 686
Breast of, Braised 77. 684
Breast of, Broiled 77. 686
Breast of, Roasted 77.701
Breast of, Stewed 77. 703
Brisotin 77. 686
Broiled, a la Venisienne 77. 687
Broth 77. 708
Cake or Pain 77. 708
Cannelon 77. 688
Carving 7.315
Cheese 77.695, 709
Chops, Broiled 77. 687
Chops, Fried 77. 692
Chumps 77. 688
Chump of, Braised 77. 684
Chump of, Roasted 77.701
Chump of, Stewed 77.704
Collared Breast 77. 688
Col lops 77. 709
Collops of, a la Turque 77. 688
Collops, Scotch 77. 702
Cones 77. 709
Country Captain 77.710
Cream 77. 689
Cromeskies 77.710
Croquettes 77.710
Curried 77. 689
Cushion 77. 689
Cushion of, Braised 77. 685
Cushion of, Broiled 77. 687
Cushion of, Glazed 77. 693
Cushion of, Roasted 77.701
Cutlets 77.710
Cutlets, Braised Larded 77. 685
Cutlets, Broiled 77. 687
Cutlets, Fried 77. 692
Cutlets, Stewed Larded 77. 7 04
Doopiaja 77.714
Farces 77. 707
Fillets 77. 690
Fillet of, Boiled 77. 684
Fillet of, Braised 77. 685
Fillet of. Pickled 77. 7 00
Fillet of, Roasted 77. 701
Fillet of, Stewed 77. 704
Forcemeat 77. 714
Forcemeat Balls 77.715
Fricadelles 77.715
Fricandeau 77. 690
Fricassee with Scorzonera 77. 715
Gelatine 77. 693
Gravy 77. 7 15
Gravy Soup 77. 715
Grenadines 77. 693
Ham 77.715
Ham and, Fritters 77.715
Ham and, Patties 77. 716
Ham and, Pie 77.716
Haricots 77.694
Hashed 77. 694
Flotch-potch of Knuckles 77. 695
Jellied 77. 695
Jelly 77.716
Knuckle of 77. 695
Knuckle of, Boiled 77. 684
Knuckle of, Braised 77. 685
Knuckle of, Stewed 77. 704
Loaf 77.716
Loin 77. 695
Loin of, Braised 77. 685
886
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Veal, Leg of, en Surprise ii. 695
Loin of, Roasted ii. 702
Loin of, Sauce for ii. 396
Loin of, Stewed ii. 705
Macaronie l, au Gratin ii. 696
Marbled ii. 696
Marsden Cake ii. 696
Mayonnaise of Tendons ii. 696
Melton ii. 696
Minced ii. 696
Mireton ii. 698
Montg'las ii. 698
Mulligatawny ii. 717
Neck ii. 698
Neck of, Braised ii. 685
Noix ii. 699
Noix of, Braised if.. 685
Noix of, Stewed ii. 705
Olive Pie ii. 718
Olives ii. 717
Omelet Paupiettes ii. 718
Patties ii. 7 1 8
Paupiettes ii. 700, 719
Pie ii. 7 J 9
Pie a la Franfai.se ii. 720
Pie, Oyster and ii. 718
Pie, Parsley and ii. 768
Pot-Pie ii. 720
Potted ii. 700
Pudding ii. 721
Quenelles ii. 700
Ragout ii. 721
Rechauffe of Cold ii. 701
Rissoles ii. 721
Rissoles, Potato and it. 720
Rolled ii. 702
Rolls ii. 721
Round of, Roasted ii. 702
Salad, Potato and ii 721
Sandwiches ii. 721
Sausages ii,. 722
Sausages, Broiled ii. 687
Shape ii. 722
Shoulder of, Roasted ii. 702
Soup ii. 722
Spiced ii. 703
Steak, Broiled ii. 688
Stewed ii. 705
Stock or Blond de Veau ii. 722
Stuffed Shoulder of, with Aspic ii. 706
Stuffing ii. 527
Tendons a la Poulette ii. 706
Tendons it la Provenfale ii. 722
Tendons of, Braised ii. 686
Tendons of, Fried ii. 692
Tendons of, Stewed ii. 705
Terrine ii. 706
Timbales ii. 707
Turnover ii. 722
Vol au Vent ii. 723
Vegetable Broth i. 205
Consomme ii. 728
Entree ii. 728
Floating Garnish for Soups ii. 728
Fritters ii. 728
Olio ii. 728
Pie ii. 728
Pudding ii. 269, 729
Puree ii. 729
Puree Soup ii. 729
Salad ii. 729
Sauce for Fish ii. 729
Soup ii. 729
Vegetables ii. 723
Batter for Frying i. 87
Blanc for i. 155
Curried ii. 727
Essence of, for Soups and Sauces
ii. 727
Vegetables, Jardiniere ii. 728
Macedoine ii. 728
Salad of, with Aspic Jelly ii. 359
Vegetable-Marrow ii. 730
a la Chambord ii. 733
a la Poulette ii. 733
ii l’Espagnole ii. 733
a l’Orly ii. 733
au Gratin ii. 733
au Jus ii. 733
Boiled ii. 730
Flowers ii. 735
Fried ii. 731
Jam ii. 734
Marmalade ii. 734
Pie ii. 734
Preserved ii. 731
Pudding ii. 734
Rissoles ii. 734
Sauce ii. 734
Sauce it la Lyonnaise ii. 733
Saute ii. 734
Soup ii. 734
Stewed ii. 732
Stuffed ii. 732
Stuffed, with Fish ii. 735
Veirga ii. 735
Velvet Breakfast Cakes i. 203
Cake i. 263
Sauce ii. 398
Venetian Sauce ii. 398, 401
Venice Biscuits i. 147
Cake i. 263
Venison ii. 735
a la Minute ii. 740
Baked ii. 736
Breast of, Stewed ii. 740
Carving ii. 315
Chops, Broiled ii. 736
Civet of ii. 733
Collops ii. 740
Croquettes ii. 741
Cutlets, Braised ii. 736
Cutlets, Broiled ii. 736
Cutlets, Stewed with Tomato Sauce
ii. 740
Fillets ii. 737
Fillet of, Roasted ii. 738
Forequarter of, Roasted ii. 738
Fried Chops ii. 737
Fried Cutlets ii. 737
Fried Steak ii. 737
Frizzled ii. 737
Haricot ii. 737
Hashed ii. 737
Haunch of, Roasted ii. 739
Leg of, Baked ii. 735
Leg of, Roasted ii. 739
Neck of ii. 738
Neck and Shoulder of, Roasted
ii. 739
Pie or Pasty ii. 741
Potted ii. 738
Potted Beef with Flavour i. 121
Pudding ii. 742
Roasted ii. 740
Saddle of, a la Polonaise ii. 740
Saddle of, Baked ii. 736
Saddle of, Roasted ii. 739
Salad ii. 742
Shoulder of, Roasted ii. 740
Shoulder of, Stewed ii. 740
Soup ii. 772
Steaks ii. 742
Steaks, Broiled ii. 736
Stewed ii. 740
Ventilation ii. 743
Vent-Pegs ii. 743
Venus Pudding ii. 269
Verjuice ii. 743
Vermicelli ii. 743
a la Reine ii. 743
Cake ii. 743
Croquettes ii. 743
Patties ii. 743
Pudding ii. 744
Souffle ii. 744
Soil]) ii. 744
Timbale ii. 745
Vermouth ii. 7 45
Viands ii. 745
Vichy Water i. 3
Vicou ii. 745
Victoria Biscottine i. 136
Biscuits i. 147
Cake i. 263
Macaroons i. 896
Pudding ii. 269
Sauce ii. 399
Soup ii. 493
Vidogna ii. 745
Vienna Beer ii. 745
Cakes i. 263
Flour ii. 745
Pudding i. 269
Rolls i. 186
Villeroy Sauce ii. 399
Vinasse ii. 745
V inegar ii. 7 46
Basil i. 81
Black-Currant i. 497
Cake ii. 7 47
Camp ii. 747
Candy ii. 747
Celery i. 328
Cherry i. 362
Chilli' i. 288
Cider i. 389
Cowslip i. 448
Cress i. 478
Cucumber i. 488
Elder- flower i. 5/1
Fine-Herbs i. 586
Fruit i. 658
Garlic i. 668
Gooseberry i. 706
1 1 erb i. 7 60
Honey i. 770
Horseradish i. 772
McCarty’s ii. 747
Mint- i. 946
Molasses i. 948
Nasturtium flower ii. 1
Pear ii. 145
Pie ii. 747
Plum, and Claret ii. 209
Primrose ii. 247
Raspberry ii. 3 1 2
Red Currant i. 500
Rhubarb ii. 321
Shallot ii. 436
Syrup ii. 748
Tarragon ii. 57 1
Tomato ii. 607
Violet ii. 749
Walnut ii. 757
Whey ii. 748
Vine-Leaves ii. 745
Stuffed ii. 746
Vino- Col to ii. 748
Vino Santo ii. 748
Vin- Regno ii. 748
Vins de Liqueur ii. 748
Ordinaires ii. 748
Violet Balls ii. 748
Conserve ii. 748
Drops ii. 748
Marmalade ii. 749
THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
887
Violet Pudding ii. 209
Rock Candy 77. 7 49
Sherbet ii. 749
Vinegar ii. 749
Violets ii. 748
Candied ii. 748
Essence ii. 748
Jelly, in ii. 748
Preserved ii. 7 48
Syrup ii. 748
Virginia Verder Punch ii. 275
Vivo ii. 749
Vocalist’s Soup ii. 494
Vodka ii. 749
Vol-au-Vents 77.749
a la Chantilly 77.749
a la Financiere 77. 749
a la Normande ii. 749
a la Toulouse ii. 750
Apples 7. 39
Apricots 7. 45
au Praises 77.7 49
Beef Tendons 7. 129
Cold Game 7. GG7
Fish Forcemeat 7.957
Fruits 7. 659
Oyster 77. 82
Salmon 77. 37 1
Veal 77.7 23
Voslauer 77. 750
Vouara 77. 750
w
Wafer Biscuits 7. 147
Jumbles 7. 792
Paper 77.751
Pudding 77. 269
Wafers 77 . 7 50
a rAllemande 77. 751
Almond 7. 14
Chocolate 7. 380
Cinnamon 7. 392
Cream, tilled with 77. 751
Dried Yeast 77. 802
Dutch 77. 750
Flemish 77. 750
French 77. 730
Ginger 7. 682
Graham-Flour 7. 708
Lemon 7. 854
Oatmeal 77. 16
Pistachios, with 77.751
Russian 77. 750
Timbale of 77. 750
Vanilla- flavoured 77. 751
Waffles 77.752
a la Casalesry 77. 753
American 77.752
Flemish 77. 752
French 77. 753
German 77. 753
Ingleside 77. 753
Quick 77. 753
Raised 77. 753
Rice 77. 338
Russian 77. 753
Sour Cream 77. 753
Waiters 77. 754
Walnut Biscuits 7. 14, 77. 757
Jam and, Biscuits 77. 757
Cake 77. 757
Candy 77. 757
Cream Ice 77. 757
Ketchup 77. 756, 758
Leaves 77. 758
Walnut Mead 77. 758
Pickle 77. 757
Ratafia 77. 758
Salad 77 . 7 5 8
Sandwiches 77. 758
Sauce 77. 757
Sauce for Fish, Anchovy and 77. 756
Vinegar 77. 757
Wine 77. 758
Walnuts 77. 754
Coffee 7. 425
Compote of Green 77. 755
Conserve of Green 77. 755
Dessert, Prepared *f or 77. 758
Green 77. 755
Pickled 77. 755
Preserved Green 77. 756
Sugared 77. 757
Warming 77. 758
Warren’s Cooking-pot and Curry-pan
77. 758
Washington Biscuits 7. 148
Cake 7. 264
Wassail 77. 759
Waste 77. 759
Water 77.7 60
Aerated 7. 3
Apple 7. 37
Barley 7. 80
Bread 7. 183
Cakes 7. 264
Gum 7. 728
Lemon 7. 854
Pudding 77. 269
Rice 77. 338
Souchet 77.760
Tamarind 77. 565
Toast 7. 192
Toast and 7. 192
Watercress 7. 477
Butter 7. 478
German mode of Cooking 7. 478
Salad 7.478
Stewed 7. 478
Water-Melon 7. 932
Cake 7. 264
Wax for Bottling 7. 169
Weddings and Wedding Breakfasts
77. 760
Weevers 77.761
a la Maitre d’Hotel 77.761
a la Normande 77. 761
Baked 77.761
Weevils 77. 761
Weights and Measures 77. 761
Weiss Beer 77.763
Welsh Broth 7. 205
Welsli-Rarebit 7. 353
au Gratin 7. 353
Sandwich 7. 353
Westmoreland Soup 77. 494
Westphalian Cheese 7. 346
Sausages 77. 406
Wheat 77. 763
Soup 77. 765
Wheat-ears 77. 765
Wheat-flour Batter Cakes 77. 7 64
Crumpets, Cornflour and 77.764
Gruel 77.764
Wheat-meal Biscuits 77.764
Bread 7. 184
Cakes 77. 764
Gems 77. 764
Muffins 77. 765
Scones 77.765
Wheat-starch Jelly 77. 765
Whelk 77. 765
Soup 77.766
Salad 77. 766
Whey 77. 766
Cream 7. 47 1
Lemon 7. 854
Orange 77. 45
Vinegar 77. 748
Wine 77. 791
Whipped Cream 7.476
Cream, Vanilla 77.681
Whips, Lemon 7. 854
White Biscuits 7. 148
Broth 7. 205
Cake 7. 264
Macaroons 7. 896
Mountain Cake 7. 264
Puddings 77.7 68
Sauce 77. 399
Sausages 77. 406
Soup 77. 494
Whitebait 77.767
Devilled 77. 7 68
Fried 77.768
Omelet a la Napolitaine 77. 768
Salad 77. 7 68
Soup 77. 7G8
White-Cabbage 7.219
Fried 7. 222
Pickled 7. 223
Salad 7. 224
Stewed 7. 223
White-Currant 7. 500
Granito 7. 500
Jelly 7.501
Shrub 7. 501
Wine, and Cherry 7. 500
White Currants 7. 500
Compote of Red and 7. 501
Sugared 7. 500
! Whitefish 77.768
White Haricot Bean Puree 7. 93
White Haricot Beans and Cream 7. 93
Haricot Beans in Gravy 7. 93
Whites 77.769
Whiting 77.769
a la Chef de Cuisine 77. 772
Baked 77. 770
Boiled 77. 770
Boudins 77. 7 7 0
Broiled 77.771
Buttered 77.771
Dried 77.771
Fillets of 77. 77 1
Forcemeat 77. 774
Fried 77. 772
Grilled 77. 772
Jelly, in 77. 774
Paupiettes 77. 772
Pie 77. 774
Pudding 77. 774
Quenelles 77. 774
Scalded 77. 772
Souffle 77. 772
Stewed 77. 772
Whisks and Whisking 77.766
Whisky 77.766
Cobbler 7. 402
Fiz 77.767
Julep, Irish 77.767
Nip, Peppermint and 77.767
Punch 77.275, 767
Sling 77.7 67
Smash, Irish 77.767
Smash, Scotch 77.767
Whole-meal Bread 7. 184
Whole- wheat Biscuits 77. 765
Widgeon 77. 774
Grilled 77.775
Roasted 77. 775
Wild Boar Flesh prepared in Italian
style 7. 161
888
TEE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
Wild-Boar, Galantine of Head 7. 161
Ham 7. 161
Wild Duck 77 775
Boiled ii. 775
Broiled ii. 775
Fillets ii. 775
Hashed ii. 776
Roasted ii. 776
Salmis ii. 779
Wildfowl, Sauce for ii. 396
Wild-Goose ii. 777
Baked ii. Til
Braised ii. Ill
Wilhelm’s Quelle i. 3
Wiltshire Cheese i. 346
Windbags or German Light Puddings
ii. 269
Windsor Soup ii. 494
Wine i. 7, ii. Ill
Apple i. 37
Apricot i. 45
Barley i. 8 1
Bilberry i. 135
Biscuits i. 148, ii. 788
Blackberry i. 152
Blackberry, with Plums i. 152
Black Currant i. 497
Cactus i. 225
Cake 77.788
Cayenne 7. 288
Cherry 7. 363
Chianti 7.370
Chocolate 7. 380
Clary 7. 399
Coltsfoot 7. 428
Cowslip 7. 448
Cream Ice 77.788
Currant and -Cherry 7. 501
Currant, from Unripe Fruit 7.502
Custard ii. 788
Damson 7.514
Dandelion 7.515
Drinking 77.786
Egg 7. 563
Elderberry 7. 57 1
Elder- flower 7. 57 1
Finger Biscuits 77.788
Froth 77.788
F ruit 7. 658
Ginger 7. 683
Glasses, Liqueur and 77.791
Gooseberry 7. 706
Grape 7. 7 10
Greengage 7.718
Hermitage 7.760
Hock 7. 766
Ices 77.7 88
Jelly 77.7 88
Lemon 7. 854
Malmsey 7. 906
Malt 7. 906
Malvasia 7. 906
Manzanilla 7. 909
Marigold 7. 9 1 1
Marsala 7.913
Medoc 7. 929
Mongol /, 948
Moselle 7. 949
Mulled 77. 787
Negus 77. 789
N ettle 77. 5
Orange 77. 45
Palm 77. 85
Parsnip 77. 93
Port 77. 225
Posset 77. 789
Primrose 77. 247
Raisin 77. 304
Raspberry 77.313
Wine, Red- Currant 7. 500
Red Currant and Cherry 7. 498
Red or White Currant 7. 503
Rhine 77.318
Rhubarb 77.321
Roll 77.7 89
Sack 77. 353
Sauce 77. 7 89
Sauterne 77. 408
Service of 77. 786
Shallot 77.476
Shape 77.7 90
Sherry 77. 447
Shiraz 77. 447
Soup 77. 7 90
Spiced 77. 68
Walnut 77. 758
Whey 77.791
Wines 7. 7, 77. 777
Algerian 7. 8
American 7. 17
Animal 7. 23
Australian 7. 60
Austrian 7. 60
British 7. 200
Cape 7. 283
Caucasian 7.318
Chinese 7. 372
Colouring Mixture for 7. 427
Cyprus 7.512
Falerian 7. 576
Hungarian 7. 773
Imperial 7. 776
Inferno 7.779
Italian 7. 779
Russian 77. 35 1
Spanish 77. 497
Swiss 77. 553
Turkish 77. 659
Varieties 77. 778
Winter Drink 7. 134
Salad 77. 360
Wood 77.791
Woodcock 77.791
Bouchees 77. 792
Cliaudfroid 77. 792
Essence 77. 7 92
Fillets 77. 7 92
Liver Sauce 77. 7 95
Pie 77.795
Puree 77. 795
Salmi 77. 7 93
Souffle 77. 7 95
Souffle, Truffle and 77. 796
Terrine 77. 794
Woodcocks 77.791
a la Chef de Cuisine 77. 795
a la Minute 77. 795
a la Perigueux 77. 7 95
Broiled 77. 792
en Croustades 77.794
Fried 77.793
Roasted 77. 793
Scotch 77. 412
Stewed Stuffed 77. 7 94
Wood-Hens 77. 7 96
a la Russe 77. 7 96
Broiled 77. 796
Cake or Pain a la Suedoise
77. 7 96
Cutlets 77.7 96
Pie 77. 796
W ood- Pigeons 77. 797
Stewed 77. 184
Wood-Sorrel 77.7 97
Worcester Sauce 77. 402
Wormwood 77. 797
Bitters 7. 150
Wort 77. 797
Wreath Cakes 7.264
Wrexham Pudding 77. 269
Y
Yam Balls 77. 799
Cassolettes 77.799
Cream 77. 7 99
Croquettes 77. 7 99
Flour 77. 7 99
Fritters 77.7 99
Omelet 77. 7 99
Pie 77.7 99
Puree 77. 7 99
Rissoles 77. 800
Roll 77. 800
Salad 77. 800
Snow 77. 800
Souffle 77. 800
Soup 77. 800
Straws 77. 800
Timbale 77. 800
Yams 77. 7 97
a la Barigoule 77. 798
a la Maitre d’Hotel 77. 789
a lltalienne 77. 789
au Gratin 77. 7 98
Baked 77. 7 98
Boiled 77. 7 98
Broiled 77. 798
Creamed 77. 7 98
Curried 77. 798
en Chateau 77. 799
Fried 77.7 98
Glazed 77. 798
Mashed 77. 798
Sautes 77. 800
Steamed 77. 800
Stewed 77. 800
Stuffed 77. 800
Yeast 77. 800
Cake 77. 802
Dumplings 77. 802
Fritters 77. 803
Paste with Alum, Dried 77. 802
Potato 77. 241
Puddings 77. 803
Wafers, Dried 77. 802
Yellow Colouring 7.427
Sauce 77. 399
York Biscuits 7. 148
Cheese 7. 346
Hams 7. 7 36
Yorkshire Brawn 7. 178
Cakes 7. 264
Pie 77. 803
Pudding 77. 803
Spice Cake 7. 264
Yule Cake 7. 264
z
Zakonski 77. 803
Zakuska 77. 803
Zampino 77. 804
j Zanders 77. 804
Aspic Jelly with 77. 805
Boiled 77. 805
Boudins of, en Croustade 77. 804
Stewed 77. 804
Zephyrs 77. 805
Zest 77. 805
| Zrazy 77. 805
| Zweibachen 77. 805
ARTISTIC CONFECTIONER
Descriptive. Index to Special Plates.
Frontispiece.
Portrait of the Editor, under whose direction the
immense mass of practical information collected for this
Encyclopaedia has been critically analysed and assorted.
In this great task he has been assisted by a staff of
chefs and others representing the highest culinary talent
in the world. The result speaks for itself.
The Old Masters.
Amongst the many names of famous cooks, of whom
record has been handed down from generation to genera-
tion, there are none who have shown more prominently
in their times than those whose portraits are presented
in this Plate. Careme had ever been acknowledged to be
the father of artistic cookery. Ude, as a friend of Brillat-
Savarin, assisted in the development of epicureanism.
Prancatelli excelled in preparing sweet entremets for his
Royal patron the Queen, whom he served till the time
of his death. Soyer made himself famous during the
Irish famine and the Crimean war, concluding his career
as chef to the Reform Club ; and Gunter, of Oxford Street,
is a household word.
Modern Chefs, Cooks, and Confectioners.
Following closely in the paths laid down for them by
their accomplished predecessors are the works of such
men as are portrayed in this Plate ; their individual
successes are duly recorded on the title page. The
Editor would willingly have added the portraits of many
others who have worked heartily with him in the pro-
duction of the Encyclopaedia, but unfortunately modesty
prevailed over a desire for public fame.
Kitchen for an Hotel.
This Plate is introduced for the purpose of showing
the extensive and elaborate fittings required to supply
the demands of a large hotel. Soups and sauces only
are prepared in this chamber, it being merely an adjunct
to others of much larger capacity. It is drawn from
one of the kitchens in Anderton’s Hotel, London.
Attelettes (Sweet and Savoury).
In this Plate is shown a variety of elaborate modes of
garnishing the silver (or plated) ornamental skewers used
in the decoration of special dishes. See Attelettes.
A Modern Ball Buffet.
This arrangement is remarkable for the convenience it
affords the guests of obtaining refreshments at any time
during the ball, in lieu of a formal supper. The foods
are so prepared as to offer the greatest variety combined
with the simplest method of service, wines, dishes, &c.,.
being replenished by attendants, whose movements are
almost entirely concealed by the luxuriant foliage. For
further particulars, see Ball Suppers and Refreshments.
VOL. II.
Artistic Garnishes for Birds.
The descriptive text at the foot of each drawing in
this Plate proclaims them all to be specimens of gar-
nishing only to be accomplished by masterly cooks.
Instructions for their preparation will be found under
their special headings.
Bottles and Flasks for Liqueurs and Spirits.
Wine Bottles and Flasks.
These two Plates demonstrate the remarkable variety
shown in the manufacture of bottles for special purposes.
The majority of those illustrated are familiar to many,
and will be recognised as old acquaintances ; to others
they may be regarded as indicators of the genuine article.
Fancy Loaves and Bolls.
Many varieties of the fancy bread, British and foreign,
that are met with in this country are here shown. Directions
for their manufacture will be found under Bread.
Bride Cakes.
Chief amongst the names of famous bride-cake
decorators stands that of our talented contributor, Mr. C.
Norwak; and of his wonderful productions this Plate
affords some evidence. The delicate and fairy-like net-
work and tracery show a master hand in the art of
sugar-piping ; and that, combined with the exquisite
arrangement of artificial flowers, produces a magnificent
effect. See Bride Cakes, Sugar-piping, &c.
Buffet or Sideboard Displayed as for a Cold
Luncheon or Banquet.
The days of the old baronial-hall banquets are fast
fading away under the glamour of more modern service ;
but it would be difficult to find amongst modern
“ improvements ” anything to surpass the solid grandeur
of the display when a real boar’s head graced the side-
board at a noble feast. The butler and chief cook would
contribute their united abilities to the arrangement of
the buffet, so as to make it a grand display, whilst the
table was comparatively bare. The introduction of more
modern services has led to combinations that have added
to the table without detracting much from the buffet.
Ornamental Butter-work.
This Plate is a reproduction from the original specimen
of butter-work upon glass, executed by C. Norwak, and
for which he was awarded a handsome prize.
Picnic Cakes.
Amongst the immense variety of cakes suitable for
special purposes those depicted on this Plate are unique.
They represent Lawn Tennis, Coaching , Cricket, Boating ,
Football, and Polo. These ornaments are easily made
in sugar and laid on a white or tinted sugar-icing. See
Cakes and Sugar-moulding.
2 M
890
DESCRIPTIVE INDEX TO SPECIAL PLATES.
Centre Dish— Le Coq Gallant (A votre Service).
Plaster cock, with real feathers, marshal’s hat, pince-
nez glasses, rapier, belt with motto and pendant, spurs,
&c. It stands on a cold chicben-and-ham pie, garnished
with sliced eggs, surrounded with poulardes (cold roasted),
ornamented with attelettes of jelly, and surmounted by
truffle, cock’s-comb, and silver cock’s head. Between the
poulardes are lark patties, garnished. See Attelettes
Eggs, Fowls, Cocks’ -combs, Truffles, Ac.
Artistic Centre-piece (Birds).
The stand is moulded in fat on a plaster base. The
top stage is supported by swans and carries a wreath of
larks and snipe, the latter with beaks pointing upwards,
and turned truffles threaded upon them. The second
stage, or base, consists of swans bearing dishes of truffles
on their wings, and a wreath of quails and woodcocks
quaintly trussed, with mushroom-tops threaded on their
beaks. Carnations and other flowers complete the design.
French Chef d’CEuvre.— Artistic Centre-piece for
Supper-table.
. Neptune, dolphins, and horses moulded in tinted fat.
Car, either natural shell or of fat. Falling water in
tinted fat on plaster foundation. Coral in coloured fat.
Lobster, crayfish, and salmon forcemeat fritters laid on
brown rocks made of fat. Oysters on half shells. Shells
and moss on plaster stand. .
Artistic Centre-pieces.
In this Plate are given some very beautiful designs for
a sultane dessert etagere and croquenbouche of meringues,
which possess the merit of novelty and elegance. The
modes of preparing the sultane and croquenbouche are
described in the text. The etagere is merely a series
of dishes arranged in stages and dressed with fruit.
A Few Favourite Cheeses.
This Plate illustrates the great variety in character
and colour of the many cheeses known in this country.
For further particulars, see Cheese.
Artistic Cold Pieces.
The garnishing of cold meats or fish is one of the fine
arts of the cook’s education. The specimens of decora-
tion shown in this Plate are taken from actual dishes,
and may be pronounced marvels of artistic excellence.
Collared and Spiced Meats.
The various samples shown in this Plate are all
fully described under their various headings.
Fancy Confectionery.
Artistic Confectionery (Nos. 1 and 2).
The terms “ artistic ” and “ fancy ” confectionery
may, for the explanation of these Plates, be considered
synonymous. The specimens depicted are a few of many
that the confectioners’ ingenuity and artistic taste have
prepared for the satisfaction of the public.
Artistic Stands of Crystallised Fruits
and Flowers.
This Plate shows the beautiful effects that can be
obtained by their artistic arrangement. Violets, primroses,
orange-flowers, and carnations take foremost rank amongst
crystallisable and edible flowers. See Crystallising.
Artistic Dessert Dishes.
In the service of fruit many exquisite arrangements
and designs are available. The modes delineated in this
Plate are very elegant and artistic. The large central
basket can be constructed from bits of wood, riveted
together and gilt. Walnuts, halved, peeled, and returned
to their shells and tied together with coloured ribbons
are effective; and pines, melons, and other fruit, sliced
and tied together with broad ribbon, are both serviceable
and ornamental. See Fruit.
A Dinner in Pompadour Style.
This arrangement of a dinner-table is named after the
Marchioness de Pompadour, whose exquisite taste and
fancy are famous throughout the world. The outlines on
the table are traced with trails of Pompadour roses
stitched on to the cloth that covers it, and a looped
muslin and lace over-skirt falls over a lace or embroidered
under-skirt with graceful effect. The large central lamp
and corner candelabra are covered by rose-coloured shades.
Artistic Arrangement for Dinner-table.
It is almost impossible, to describe the wonderful
beauty of this arrangement, although the details of con-
struction are sufficiently simple — real water in the lake
and fountain, and living gold fish, with miniature swans
and gondolas, surrounded by cork banks in imitation of
rockery, and ferns, lighted up here and there with glow-
worm lamps. The dripping fountain of tinted waters
fall into the large basin containing mermaids with
entwined tails, supporting with one hand the upper basin
of the fountain, and the other holding shells of bon-bons
temptingly toward the guests. See Table-Decoration.
Arrangement for a Dinner-table.
This Plate is strictly original, in that it represents a
high-class dinner minus the guests, the service and
arrangements being plainly demonstrated and every
practical detail shown. See Table-Service.
Artistic Sweet Entremets.
In this Plate are given some unique designs for those
dishes so very dear to ladies of all nationalities and of
all classes. Varieties of sweet entremets are legion, and
include dishes made up of fruits stewed or preserved in
sugar, compotes, cakes, gateaux, creams, custards, jellies,
pies, tarts, and numerous other similar preparations.
Reference should be made to these headings.
Preserved Fish. Dried Fish.
Some familiar examples are given in these two Plates,
which will enable the purchaser to judge of quality as well
as kind. For further particulars, see special headings.
Artistic Modes of Serving Fish.
The most observable feature of this Plate is the use
of the highly ornamental French hot-water bowl under
the flat silver dish upon which the fish rests. The
garnishes are in each case noteworthy as being particu-
larly suited to the fish they decorate. Instructions for
preparing these dishes will be found in the text under
Fish, and under their special headings.
Artistic Fish Garnishes.
For the garnishing of fish dishes gold medals have
been freely awarded at cookery competitions. Some
select examples are shown in this Plate.
DESCRIPTIVE INDEX TO SPECIAL PLATES.
891
Pish Removes.
A plainly-served fish is somewhat unsightly, and the
chefs art is devoted to remedying the evil. By means of
tact and discretion he is able to produce such picturesque
dishes as are displayed in this Plate.
Artistic Floral Decorations.
Floral Table Decorations.
Gum-paste Work (No. 1).— Military Trophy
Gum-paste Work (No. 2).— Basket for Fruit.
On these Plates are given designs and plans which
indicate the modes of producing highly ornamental stands,
vessels, &c., from gum-paste. Under that heading will be
found instructions for the working of this pliant material,
and descriptive text of these Plates.
From the earliest days of which we have any record
of the festive doings of civilisation the board has ever
been graced by the jiresence of flowers, ferns, or foliage.
Such decorations may vary from the simple plant in pot
or gathered spray to the most elaborate and profuse
arrangement or design that the art of the florist can con-
trive. In these two Plates some original samples of
artistic floral decorations are given which accord with
the instructions given under Table-Decoration.
Ornamental, Artistic, and Fanciful Arrangements
of Fruits for Table or Sideboard.
This Plate is worthy of considerable notice, as the
expert in table decorations delights in such clever
displays.
Artistic Hors d’CEuvre.
The service of hors d’oeuvre (see under that heading),
not merely as appetisers, but as plats volants that are
available at any time during the meal, is becoming more
fashionable every day. The range of foods suitable is
somewhat extensive, the samples shown in this Plate
being of exceptional merit.
Artistically-served Ices.
Since the introduction into this country of the
Neapolitan styles of preparing and Serving ices, the
ingenuity of the confectioner lias been devoted to the
subject, with the satisfactory results that some very
elaborate ices have found their way to high-class tables.
This Plate shows a few clever devices. Sec Ices.
Artistic Galantines.
As viands for luncheons, suppers, and other cold colla-
tions, there are none so applicable as savoury galantines ;
they admit of the simplest treatment, and of the most
artistic, from the simple roll of spiced meat witli its parsley-
spray garnish to the elaborate and exquisite arrangements
shown in this Plate. Instructions for the preparation of
such dishes are given under special headings, such as
Eels, Fowls, Game, Larks, Plovers, &c.
Artistic Garnishes. Garnishes.
These two Plates convey suggestions for the prepara-
tion and arrangement of various little tasty articles that
admit of ornamental arrangement round large dishes.
Artistic Garnishes for Cold Joints.
The system of garnishing depicted in this Plate belongs
to the highest order of the culinary art, requiring con-
siderable time, care, and ingenuity in the arrangement.
Artistic Gateaux.
This Plate shows the wonderful effects that can be
produced by applying coloured icing-sugar to Genoa
and other plain cakes cut into elegant shapes, and by
fastening slices together with apricot or other marmalade.
By filling-up hollows with whipped cream, and ornament-
ing with sugar-piping, spun sugar, candied fruits, bon-
bons, &c., some remarkable dishes result.
Drinking-glasses.
Although glass was manufactured in this country as
early as the middle of the sixteenth century, it was not
produced in anything like perfection until the commence-
ment of the nineteenth century ; since then it has
advanced with giant strides, as may be seen by a
careful study of the specimens shown in this Plate. See
also Tumblers.
Artistic Emblematic Grosses Pieces.
The splendid specimens of the culinary art shown in
these Plates may be composed of either sweets or
savouries, the stand being moulded in gum-paste (refer
to that heading) to suit the occasions for which they
are prepared — sporting, dancing, naval and military, &c.
Artistic Jellies.
British confectioners have for many years excelled in
their artistic management of jellies. The designs given
in this Plate are calculated to add to the variety of
production, by suggesting others, such as balls of jellies,
squares, slabs, resulting in pyramids, &c. See Jellies.
Artistic Luncheon Dishes (No. 1).
The Continental chef displays great talent in the
preparation of dishes suitable for luncheons (dejeunes a
la fourcliette). The drawings in this Plate were con-
tributed by one of the greatest of living chefs as samples
of those he has supplied to Royal tables.
Artistic Luncheon Dishes (No. 2).
A variety of prettily and tastily arranged dishes,
including oysters, scallops, mussels, frogs, and snails.
Particulars will be found under the names referred to.
Luncheon-table laid under Tent for Fetes, &c.
Given fine weather and good company, there are few
spreads so absolutely enjoyable as a luncheon under a
tent. The table may consist of the usual boards and
trestles, covered by a stout damask cloth, the sides being
draped by a long narrow cloth sewn on to the other and
caught in folds with floral studs. The flooring should
be of boards, evenly laid and covered with carpet. Floral
decorations can be arranged to taste. See Luncheons.
Meat Removes.
The three drawings given in this Plate may be
regarded as types. By means of garnishes the simplest
and plainest food assumes the appearance of luxury.
Home-made Paper Frills and Cases.
To the cook and confectioner there are so many uses
to which paper cases can be turned that some knowledge
of how to cut and fold them is most important. In
this Plate a few examples are given. See Paper.
Paper Cases, Ornaments, &c., for Entremets,
Entrees, Ices, Jellies, and other Sweet
or Savoury Dishes.
The figures in this Plate are drawn from machine-
made specimens, supplied by Messrs. Hunt, Mansell,
Catty, and Co.
892
DESCRIPTIVE INDEX TO SPECIAL PLATES.
Artistic Pastry (Savoury).
Although this and the following Plate represent two
distinct forms of pastry, they show that both are capable
of exceedingly artistic treatment. Savoury pies are oftener
served cold than hot, and this Plate illustrates the treat-
ment of cold pastry only. In each case the garnishes
are suitable accompaniments to the pies.
Artistic Pastry (Sweet).
The designs selected for this Plate are typical of the
highest efforts in the various departments of the pastry-
cook’s and confectioner’s art. Plawn, fruit pie, tartlets,
cream- wafers, and imitation pat6 -de-foie-gras, with suit-
able surroundings, are here given, forming dishes that
cannot be excelled for tasteful preparation or design.
They have also the merit of simplicity.
Artistic Pies and Pasties.
Something novel and original in pies and pasties has
long been a desideratum with the pastry-cook, whose
efforts in this direction have usually been exceedingly
limited. The designs here given are from the portfolio
of a late famous club chef. Some excellent instructions
will be found under Pies.
Poultry-carving.
In this Plate the direction of the cuts in different cases
is indicated by dotted lines, which will be found useful as
a guide, even though they are not transferred to the body
of the bird. See Carving.
Sausages.
A few of the most familiar kinds of sausages are here
displayed. Receipts for their manufacture will be found
under appropriate headings.
Artistic Serviettes (Nos. 1 and 2).
These Plates may be regarded as a real boon, not
only because they display the highest art of napkin-
folding, but because in the text, under Serviettes, will
be found the most intelligible and practical directions
for folding the designs here depicted.
Artistic Sugar-work.
Freehand Sugar-piping.— By C. Norwak.
Table Ornaments in Caramel and Spun Sugar.
The renaissance, as it were, of sugar-working in this
country demands every encouragement, and to that end
these Plates are given as showing, not only what may be
done, but also what has been done by artistic confec-
tioners. The first illustrates designs of strictly ornamental
character. In the second, sugar-piping — reckoned to be
one of the highest branches of the confectioner’s art — is
shown in masterly perfection, this Plate being a photo-
graphic reproduction of a specified work by C. Norwak,
a member of this staff, for which he was awarded a
gold medal. The third Plate gives some instructive
details of the construction of sugar ornaments that are
fully described under Sugar-working.
Artistic Supper Dishes (No. 1).
The greatest taste in arrangement and garnishing is
sometimes necessary to tempt capricious appetites, or it
may be to do honour to some special guest. The use of
ornamental paper cases contributes greatly to appearances,
and these are shown to good effect in this Plate.
Artistic Supper Dishes (No. 2).
The free and artistic use of such garnishes as parsley,
crimson salt, tomatoes, lemon, &c., add materially to the
effect of the dishes they are used to ornament. See
Lobster, Lamb, Sardines, &c.
“ En Surprise ” (Surprise Dishes as Sweet
Entremets or Centres for Buffets).
The principal charm of these highly artistic specimens
of the confectioner’s skill is that they are not altogether
what they seem to be. The upper drawing represents a
swan made of sugar or cake covered with sugar-icing. It
is laden with choice sweetmeats and gaily decorated with
a crown and garland of candied flowers. The swan is
floating on a water made of jelly, lightly tinted green
with spinach juice, the edges or banks being represented
by sugar-rock bon-bons, candied flowers, and bulrush
leaves of candied angelica.
The lower drawing shows a cake made in the shape of
a ham, hollowed out from underneath, and filled with
sweetmeats or cream. The colour is obtained by choco-
late-icing, and the body is surrounded by a garland of
crystallised flowers. The bottles of champagne are real,
or may be made of sugar and filled with liqueur ; and
the corks are small cakes made in suitable moulds, the
interiors having been removed and replaced by richly-
flavoured cream, and the cakes plugged up again with
the first piece removed for hollowing.
Some Sweets and Savouries.
This Plate gives an artistic suggestion as to service ;
specimens of fritters, omelettes, ramekins, and patties,
are tastily arranged on their dishes.
Artistic Table-cloths (Nos. 1 and 2).
Under Table Linen are given special instructions for
the arrangement and ornamental fixing of table-cloths.
These two Plates present a series of devices of a very
high order and strictly practical in application.
Table Ornaments Formed with Fat, Paste, or
Sugar, on Wooden or Metal Foundations.
The art of moulding has not been sufficiently practised
or encouraged in this country, although the processes
are simple and the results effective. In this Plate are
a few designs for which moulds can be easily obtained.
Trussing Poultry.
The French or Continental system of trussing differs
in many respects from that practised by the British
poulterer. The foreign system has many advantages,
which are depicted in this Plate. See Trussing.
Artistic Modes of Serving Vegetables.
According to the English cook’s method, vegetables are
plainly cooked and still more plainly served as accom-
paniments to joints and other viands. The foreign chefs
treat vegetables, especially those of a rarer sort, as a
separate course, and it then behoves them to expend
some care in the mode of dressing and service. A few
artistic suggestions are given in this Plate.
A Wedding Breakfast-table.
This Plate shows an elaborate arrangement of violets,
orange-blossoms, and other lilac and white flowers appro-
priate to the occasion. The fashionable looped muslin
and lace skirt-cloth, festooned with trails of lilac and
white iris, is very effective. The bride cake is covered
by a stout wire cage-like structure, upon which white
flowers are trailed, the whole with its surmounting
bouquet being easily lifted off for cutting and serving.
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